Oil Pan Remove Chevy HHR 2.4l
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- I decided to remove the pan and check for leaks at the rear seal. I will re-install it in another video. Link to TOOLS and PARTS I USE...
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You can remove the dipstick from the oilpan and leave it behind. Carefully pry it out of oilpan with a flat screwdriver. It's only held in with a O-ring and some crust
Late, but thankyou!
Thanks for the video. I had an issue today with a Cobalt with a snapped off dipstick. Luckily we had a G5 2.2 as a donor car and its very easy to remove the fuel rail, throttle body, and intake manifold. Then its easy to remove that crap and pull the dipstick tube out. Spin it and wiggle it and it comes loose easily. Now its much easier to get the oil pan off(which I have to do because of the snapped off dipstick.)
Removing all those parts sure makes it easier to repair. Some models may be easier than others, but that seems to be the case for many later models these days. Happy to have helped.
Next time us a flat head screw driver to remove oil stick❤
Good point! Prying it out should be an easy task.
Great video! I would add that I had a 2010 Malibu with a different transmission and one of the transmission oil pan bolts actually drains the oil out of the transmission, so be aware of that. If you don't have the same transmission, be ready to catch the oil.
Thanks for sharing!
Like it drains all the oil out of the trans?
@@cgonedfishing well, I don't know about all the oil but it's definitely going to make a mess it's been a while now I don't remember exactly how much came out now but I know it was considerable amount.
Great video! Helped me a ton in planning my 2008 G6 2.4 Ecotec! Key points, 1. Take the time to remove the clip on dipstick, will make it easier to pull out of pan and leave it in place. 2. No bolts effect trans fluid on mine. 3. A/C Bolt can just be loosened to the point that it’s not in the threads, leave it in the A/C mount, did not have to move the compressor at all. 4. Practice Practice Practice before putting sealer on pan. For me, I found a good way to rest it in position (arms not as strong as they used to be) then center your self under the dowels or guide studs, make sure you have enough light to use those for centering it quickly and effortlessly! 24 hours on sealer almost done will be checking for leaks later today. What what a job, this was my final step in the timing chain fiasco with this motor. Bits every where in the oil pan especially the pickup tube 😢😅😢🎉😢😅😊!
You got a handle on this project. Take your time. Thanks for the steps! Thanks for watching!
Of course I had the same situation. Do you think its necessary to remove the pieces in the oil pan?
@@JCGible Yes! What type of vehicle? I removed it and took the baffle out, found more pieces, and I took out the oil pan pick up tube. Lots of pieces cam out of that as well as some small pieces of metal stuck in the mesh of the pickup tube. The oil pan in my 2007 G6 does not require a gasket but you do need to creat one out of high temp gray I believe. Above I shared how using the guide pins/dowel pins to line everything up easier. Using jack stands obviously it helped having the car high enough to be directly under the pan safely. In fact I use four jack stands just in case!
@@cgonedfishing Thank you.I am working on my sisters 2010 Chevy Colbolt LT. 2.2 L engine. I am happy to say I've replaced all the timing chain components and water pump, and im ready to close it up.
I suppose the oil pan will be a challenge. 🙂
@cgonedfishing7350 I went ahead and removed the oil pan as you recommended. The uptake was packed full of debris. It is imperative to drop the engine oil pan after the timing chain guides have broken. Every peace of plastic further clogs the screen until your engine is starving for oil. I'm amazed this engine is still running. Im curious to see if it will survive going forward. Thanks for the help. I did subscribe to you channel.
Thank you for your support your expertise in your experience
Muchos Gracias my friend!
You did it professionally
Thanks!
I'm thinking that oil pan will look much nicer the next time I see it... great video.!!
Yes, you must be psychic, or involved in telepathy or clairvoyance. LOL I believe this is the only oil pan I ever took off and never rebuilt the engine. This newer stuff is built like a watch and the only thing I ever do with those is change the battery. The more I work on this and the older I get, makes me want to treat it like a watch! LOL
You have more patience than I do. Good luck with it!!
Thanks Duke. I just need an excuse to get out of the house, and she never checks. LOL
I'm glad that's you doing that and not me, I think I'm about past the point of doing that kind of work..
Did you have to remove, or loosen the cross bar close to the balancer, or did it come out with out touching it.
That crossbar is actually part of the engine cradle. It is holding the engine to the body and is designed for the engine to be lowered, not pulled out from the top when rebuilding it. No, I was able to drop the pan at the rear by the flywheel and then there was enough clearance to pull the pan out. It seems a bit tricky at first but really is not. The difficult part it installing the pan and not messing up the gasket seal. A few practice runs installing and removing the pan without the new gasket sealer on it, I HIGHLY recommend.
Today I believe we need to think about repairing what we have instead of buying new headaches or new high car payments. But im getting a little stiff jointed in my 60s
Great video It help me do this to my 2012 Buick Regal with a 2.4L engine thanks a lot!👍🏾💪🏾👌🏾💯
Glad it helped
Your really good sir thanks for the video
Thanks and welcome
I didn't see how you got the AC compressor bolt out. For the dip stick I took the bracket bolt off then put a pair of vice grips on the tube by the pan and nocked it out by hitting the vice grips up with a hammer.
Must have missed the record button on the AC bolt. Vice grips are life savers most of the time. Nice work!
You have to move the compressor a side.
hey man, good video. just wondering did you support the engine before removing that mount bolt? thanks
No I did not. I am sure that if I did (Hindsight) and raised it a bit that the installation of the pan (especially at the front) would have been so much easier. I just did not think of it at the time. Good Question! Thanks!
Im not sure but I might have cracked my exhaust manifold by letting the engine drop to far. Be careful
What was the total re and re timewise?
Thank you
You're welcome
Does the dipstick have a clip inside or how many cuss words are needed to get it out? Great vid.
I believe there are 2 oil rings that gets carboned up and holds it. Take your time and squirt some WD on the insertion area. Gingerly try twisting it a bit. Here is a link to the next video and it shows the tube...czcams.com/video/bJvv1ydVzGk/video.html
@@SteveAZ711 thank you! It worked
do we have to remove the dipstick tube? does it stick to the oil pan? i just want to remove oil pan and clean it up.
czcams.com/video/dkIwJgd8N9g/video.html
Marker 2:57 it stays with the pan.
Great video, thanks.
Your too kind! Glad you got some use out of it, I hope.
Did you have to take off the accessory belt? Or support the engine due to motor mount bolt?
No I did not.
how do you get a/c bolt?? do I have to remove the compressor?
I did not remove the compressor.
Is similar to an 09 saturn aura?
Not sure. I believe ecotec design did come from Saturn.
2011 Buick Regal 2.0 turbo , obviously not the same oil pan .I think I have bent mine ,cannot find whats holding it. I find out I have to remove the AC unit to remove a bolt in behind through the bracket into the pan. Then there is a bolt up under that in a concave hole above the subframe that you have to lift the motor to slide a deepwell 13 up in there. Now i am still stumped on whats holding it. Never buy a
These pans are stuck on pretty good and have to gently be pried off. Make sure all the bolts are out and try prying it off starting gently at a corner by tapping on a screwdriver or a chisel used as a wedge. Also, it will make a different sound (the chisel tapping ) as it comes loose. I was at the same point once where I just knew there was something else holding it and there was not.
how does the dipstick tube attach to the oil pan? is that easy to separate them?
It is pressed into the pan. Vice grips and a twisting motion may be able to get it out. I did not want to try that.
@@SteveAZ711 thanks
is this the 2.4 ecotech?
Yes it is.
If possible what size wrench is needed for the thicker 3 bolts?
i haven't been able to find a socket that fit
I believe it is a 17mm.
How did you remove the ac stud
Did it fix the leak, or was it the rear main seal?
Well, I thought I had it fixed as it took a day for me to notice another drip. So most likely the engine will need a rear seal (future repair?). The H had been sitting for quite some time so it is possible that running it will rejuvenate the seal some. I added some AVP to see if it would help, and have driven the H some 250 miles (bad tires) in short runs to and from. I have NOT noticed any drips or leaks... Now, if it is cured by running it, or by using the AVP it is anyone's guess. I really will not know until a later date and maybe an oil change. The engine now has 333999 on the odometer and counting. I plan on keeping this car so maybe there is an engine rebuild in the future, or maybe a swap. It purrs at idle, does not smoke, and is still snappy. For now, I will be driving it and doing other repairs as needed. I like my HHR!
Stay tuned!
Michael, I replaced a rear main seal twice on an Ecotec thinking that was where the oil leak was coming from, and yes that was pulling the engine twice. Turned out the leak was two tiny pin holes in the block. To find the leak I put a little air pressure in the crankcase and just walked away for about 1/2 hour. No leak at the main seal but up towards the front balancer pulley on the exhaust side of the engine was this little accumulation of oil coming out of these two tiny holes no further than 1/4'' apart from each other. Haven't a clue why???????? Cleaned out the pin holes good with brake clean and mixed up some marine epoxy and presto no more leak. I guess windage blew the oil back towards the bellhousing making it look like a rear main seal. These Ecotec's are pretty good little motors though.
Is this the same for the 2.0 LHU?
I am sure they are similar.
i have that exact same oil pan on my saturn. however my leak seems to be from the oil pump port. the cap literally just fell off while i was removing the pan. now my question is how does the cap go back in, round side out? does it take the same sealant as the pan?
Not sure about cap, but the HHR Shop Manual says to use the same sealant for the pump port as the pan.
On all data It says to jack up the engine 3in to get the oil pan out. Is this really necessary?
I like ALLDATA. The more room you have the easier the repair. If the Shop manual said I had to raise the engine then I would have. It is really close in areas.
My oil pan is not moving at all I think the last people who worked on my oil pan put some type of glue
Ok make sure there are no more oil pan bolts. Check the front of the pan on the passenger side. Go around it with your finger and make sure all the grease dirt etc is not hiding one or two bolts. If you are very SURE you have them all then very carefully begin prying in maybe a 6in. area, making sure not to do it to hard or crack the pan. Try tapping a putty knife(very thin blade) around the prying area and see if you can start breaking it loose. Go slow, take your time and do not get frustrated. If they used a drying permatex sealer then it will act like glue but it will come loose. JUST make sure there are NO other bolts!
Cars Trucks And Detours thank you man yeah I was right they did use some type of glue smh when I mean they the dealership I’m cleaning it off as we speak but thank you man I just kept prying it little by little
Is this good for the Terrain or Equinox 2012?
Most likely if it is a 2.4L.
better in 1.5 playback speed
Oil pressure sensors suck
Even worse in C5 corvettes!