I have an 04.5 LLY with EFI live and an EDGE CTS. One day the vanes got stuck at 100%. Truck smoked with anything over moderate throttle, and made no boost. An hour later, it went back to normal. This went on for a week or so until it got to where it mostly stayed stuck. Instead of buying a new VPS ($300-800), I took the old one out. It was gunky: black, sooty stuff that was really sticky. The sort of stuff that's in our EGRs. I connected it back to the wiring, turned the ignition on, and pushed the sensor in-and-out while watching the CTS. The CTS read no movement, meaning the sensor was bad. I spent 10 full minutes squirting WD-40 into it, working the sensor back and forth, and then wiping it clean. I repeated this process until the WD-40 came out clean. Then I hooked it all back up, and the truck runs smoother, is a little more powerful, and I went from 17 mpg to 18. Also, the vane position was different after cleaning. Before cleaning it would never read below 30%, now it will read down into the single digits. The VPS now reads in a more linear fashion, not jumping from 55%-70%, etc. Try cleaning it first, guys. It takes 20 mins total, and all you need is a wrench, rag, and WD-40.
EFI Live helped alot with the final troubleshooting but I had engine codes that indicated position loss. (see other vids of Dmax troubleshooting). The Vane Position Sensor is easy to change, it will learn the new sensor itself (key on and wait for self test) Having access to EFI Live is a big plus. You can command the VVT to full open or close and check what the sensor is reading to confirm the issue. (Mine would lose the reading after about 20%). Sensors can be pricey - shop around
i think im having the same problem with my 06 lbz. i got the head gaskets done and now there is a high pitched whine coming from the turbo and my turbo isnt cycling anymore but not throwing any codes. was the vane posistion sensor the problem with yours?
Please read the rest of my comments and my other comments for troubleshooting. I wemt theough which DTC codes tbey are and what the problem and repair was. Think I even have a vid of the after install.
Thank you for your response, I noticed that coolant temperature gauge was not moving for this time.... I'm having that problem sounds like airplane and temperature gauge it's not moving
I have an 04.5 LLY with EFI live and an EDGE CTS. One day the vanes got stuck at 100%. Truck smoked with anything over moderate throttle, and made no boost. An hour later, it went back to normal. This went on for a week or so until it got to where it mostly stayed stuck.
Instead of buying a new VPS ($300-800), I took the old one out. It was gunky: black, sooty stuff that was really sticky. The sort of stuff that's in our EGRs. I connected it back to the wiring, turned the ignition on, and pushed the sensor in-and-out while watching the CTS. The CTS read no movement, meaning the sensor was bad. I spent 10 full minutes squirting WD-40 into it, working the sensor back and forth, and then wiping it clean. I repeated this process until the WD-40 came out clean. Then I hooked it all back up, and the truck runs smoother, is a little more powerful, and I went from 17 mpg to 18. Also, the vane position was different after cleaning. Before cleaning it would never read below 30%, now it will read down into the single digits. The VPS now reads in a more linear fashion, not jumping from 55%-70%, etc.
Try cleaning it first, guys. It takes 20 mins total, and all you need is a wrench, rag, and WD-40.
Mine is doing the same thing. Stuck at 100 but the VPS is new. Think my vanes are stuck?
It's also going into limp mode.
@@achilles1373 I'd guess so. WD-40 and an hour are worth a try. Best of luck
@@Arkytoob I believe what it is for me is the previous owner replaced the sensor but didn't have it relearned.
@@achilles1373 they relearn themselves
EFI Live helped alot with the final troubleshooting but I had engine codes that indicated position loss. (see other vids of Dmax troubleshooting). The Vane Position Sensor is easy to change, it will learn the new sensor itself (key on and wait for self test) Having access to EFI Live is a big plus. You can command the VVT to full open or close and check what the sensor is reading to confirm the issue. (Mine would lose the reading after about 20%). Sensors can be pricey - shop around
So basically you’re saying there is a relearning procedure??
i think im having the same problem with my 06 lbz. i got the head gaskets done and now there is a high pitched whine coming from the turbo and my turbo isnt cycling anymore but not throwing any codes. was the vane posistion sensor the problem with yours?
I feel this is the same problem with my 07 Chevy Classic Duramax my turbo makes a bad whining noise
My lly sounded the same would spool then whistle would go away and lose.power and through engine code. Turbo vane position sensor fixed it
no codes? have you checked all the blue silicone boots on the charge-air side for leaks? It will make more of a squeal sound when building boost.
Yes this is exactly what my duramax does
I think I'm going through the same issue. Can you contact me and help me out with this.
My 05 lly does this! Does anyone know the problem? I have no turbo leaks, or cracked hoese.
Please read the rest of my comments and my other comments for troubleshooting. I wemt theough which DTC codes tbey are and what the problem and repair was. Think I even have a vid of the after install.
did you fix it
BEBO1977100 yes...VPS was toast
Did you have problem with temperature?
No. Just boost codes and funky drivablity
Thank you for your response, I noticed that coolant temperature gauge was not moving for this time.... I'm having that problem sounds like airplane and temperature gauge it's not moving
My lly sounded the same would spool then whistle would go away and lose.power and through engine code. Turbo vane position sensor fixed it
what brand did you buy, OEM or aftermarket, if after market , what brand?