Why We Don't Use Spray Insulation (responding to your comments)
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Thanks everyone who asked questions on our recent insulation video. Your comments inspired some extra discussion between Mike and Mike.
Last week's insulation video:
• What We Know (and Don'...
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If you first spray the metal with Lizard Skin or Bullet Liner, then spray the closed cell foam and it will not warp the metal because the spray-in liner is protecting the metal from the thermal reaction of the closed cell foam. The added benefit of Lizard Skin or Bullet Liner is the sound deadening properties combined with insulation.
As a longtime luxury motor coach and Prevost bus conversion builder, I will respectfully disagree in regards to closed cell spray foam being applied to the above mentioned applications including vans. We have sprayed close cell foam sense the mid 80's. There are reasons that panels become wavy, that is caused by improper applications, applicator error and temperature. Make sure that your application areas are clean well with rubbing alcohol first. Closed cell foam is NOT all created equal, and never apply any closed cell foam before using low expansion closed cell spray foam slowly and ever so sparingly behind and around any and all reinforcement ribs and all 4 sides. This closed cell spray foam comes in an aerisal can, READ THE LABEL BEFORE PURCHASING, LOW EXPANSION ONLY. Next apply very thin coats of closed cell spray foam all the way around your job area and repeating until you have reaches your desired thickness. DON'T OVER FILL, you need to account for expansion and contraction because your metal and wood will expand and contract with weather temperatures and moisture, we allow 1/4" for this.
When i was considered a bus nut. I reviewed several builds with SPF and then grinding or knifing off the excesses before applying the paneling. Warped panels at that time came from people blocking off the windows with steel or aluminumand the heat would cuase the panels to deform. I'm trying to determine if I can use SPF on my 5th wheel once I remove the outer skin as ,y 1995 Holiday Rambler uses alumi,um aide panels. I would need to drill each rivet to pull the panel which is a huge amount of work. My goal is to increase usage for 4 seasons and reduce heating and cooling costs while keeping a better environment.
I would remove the 1 1/2" of fiberglass insulation and spray with SPF. To reduce thermal bridging I'm thinking about adding 1/8" vinyl strips to the aluminum rib before putting the panel back up. Maybe even epoxy the vinyl to the rib before drilling the rivet hole then apply a small amount of spf to each hole or do it before applying the vinyl. I say vinyl but thinking teflon or some type of material that prevents an aluminum to aluminum contact. Once the vinyl is installed then knife or grind the SPF flush then put up the panel. In some of the coach conversion videos I've seen, a very long knife blade is used on a sawsall to cut the foam for a flat surface. Just worried about creating a compartment so air tight that it would increase moisture and cause mold or rot. The entire RV is built with aluminum tubing and no wood except the interior paneling so the structure wouldn't be affected and a magic fan to control temps might be enough to remove extra moisture.
Need to do a roof repair so my dream is to apply SPF on top, sides and under the floor. Maybe open cell on the bottom of the subfloor would be best inase there's a leak and the air could move to get ride of moisture. But your comment gave me another source to review as I had forgotten bus conversion. It was on my mind a lot and then I took a job driving MCI 7,8, 9 and 102A coaches (mainly Ventura-Vegas) and the maintenance I did to keep them operational while driving made me rethink going that route and I wound up just getting a used 37' 5th wheel. Poor maintenance was of course the problem. But after retiring from the military I returned to the theater and not home much. Still working overseas, a diesel sitting that long isn't good but I still enjoy seeing what people did with an old coach. Vegas Bus Nut convention around 1999 or 2000 was awesome. Loved seeing what people did.
Kevin, can you provide a recommendation for a specific brand and product you'd use on a class A with interior walls currently removed?
I worked in the rv capital of the world in Elkhart, IN, from 97 until 2016, and many companies tried using it and it was no good. It was more problems than good.
@fwdsrq I worked in the RV capital of the world Elkhart, IN, for many years and we ran countless tests, and it never passed testing. Use something else.
👍 Good follow-up to previous video! Some surprising info!
Makes sense with you guys have decided Thanks for all the great info on these issues 🍻
Thanks for the response it answered a lot of questions.I foamed my 2019 last month and it warped the whole van.Im happy to hear it will go back if I decide to remove it.Too bad you didn’t do this video a month ago I saw so many people foam their vans on CZcams I was sure it wouldn’t be a problem.
Where can we see some photos or video of the wattage? Nobody ever seems to have any.
Photos of warping, please? Really would be helpful to make a judgement for my van.
@@saraheasongis2376 It’s hard to see in a picture now that I’ve fixed it. If you decide to do it tape off where the ribs meet the skin so the foam can’t get in between. Do sections then wait and see how it’s reacting rather than do the whole van and then find out you have a problem.
Great talk. I have spray foam in my conversion van (done 21 years ago). Never noticed surface stress but the sheet metal was thicker in 2000.
BIGTIME RESPONSE GUYS ! It lets Us know You take what You do seriously FOR US & You DON'T cut no corners. Thank You !
Thanks for the great video I have one suggestion regarding the spray foam did you try laying it down in Multiple thin layers what I mean is 1 layer 2 mm thick then allow it to dry completely then another layer to mm thick etc etc etc.
The idea is one thin layer won't exert enough heat or force to warp the metal and once dried will add strength to the skin of the van upon which you can apply the next foam layer so you could build up a 5 centimetre thick insulation wall of spray foam in Multiple consecutive layers each about 2 millimetres thick allowing each layer to dry completely before adding the next thin layer like lasagna
I pay some good money to see you spray 1-2 mm of foam 👍🥰
I love these videos. You guys could talk about paint drying and still make the videos interesting.
I have one of the very rare 1970 Starcraft Starcruisers. They are fiberglass construction. While restoring the interior I was amazed that they actually had spray foam in 1970. Needless to say I used sprayfoam just like the manufacturer. Its 1.5" thick.
I believe that if you apply the spray foam in thin coats then it won’t deform the outer shell of the van.
You are right to question what they say because they contradict themselves and won’t even assert that you must have a vapor barrier with wool to prevent condensation. Out of fear they will offend a customer. When a PHd is that wishy washy why have them on staff?
This is exactly what I think should be done 1st coat then a final.
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath Vapor barriers can often be ineffective because you need a 100% sealed interior for them to work. Most van conversions won’t achieve this so a 100% barrier then just traps condensation and can increase the risk of mould.
Far Out Rides had a great explanation of this based off of research Boeing did on insulation and moisture issues in their planes. Their overall findings emphasized that breathability is better, so a vapour barrier over 50-75% of insulated areas is fine but 100% can cause problems.
Does the warping happen when the foam gets between 2 metal sheets or will it happen even on a flat single piece of sheet metal?
I used spray foam on all tight tube type areas with no problems . However '97 ford econoline sheet metal only bends in Crashes .
I know somebody that does spray foam. The trick is a few coats of finer spray. Particularly the first and second coats. The downside is this is more expensive because of man hrs involved.
There won't be *any* problem with spray foam distorting exterior sheet-metal *IF* you use a different type of foam that remains more flexible after curing and/or install a layer of acoustic dampening foam onto the sheet metal before applying the spray foam.
What kind of acoustic dampening foam are you referring to?
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath I assume Dodo mat or similar, however I was hoping to use spray foam for the best insulating properties with the added benefit that it would sound deaden as well saving money in that regards. Unsure what to doooo
What about using a spray rubber to seal the inner skin then using spray foam for the insulation!
Why didn’t you film the testing of the spray foam? that’s an awful lot of trouble to go through risking bending the sheet metal skin on the van and you didn’t even bother to film it?
I am an engineer (B.Sc Automotive) and I have experience working with expanding foam. It is really hard to apply in a manner that it would not warp the sheet metal. I would outsource that to a specialist company. Also the plumbing/wiring that runs inside the insulation will have to be installed before foam is applied. All the fittings and lay-out will have to be spot on. CAD is the key. Having to take out the insulation to make modifications (or repairs to the van electrics/other components!) is a major chore. I would only apply the foam to a factory fresh van.
However, the insulation itself really is the best (affordable) material, bar none. If I was making a van conversion for myself, expanding foam would be my choice. However building for a customer - I am not so sure I would want to go that route.
I have a 2005 van so not worried about a little bit of warp, and will get it installed by the company selling it. I'm a bit worried now though about stories of people saying for hot weather it can be harder to cool the van down if it's heavily insulated. Although with 2 vent fans maybe it's ok. Not worried about cold though as winter in Australia isn't bad and I have a diesel heater.
@@matt.163 Spray foam is a great insulator for hot or cold. But it doesn't have high "thermal capacity" meaning it wont store heat within itself. In the summer all you need to do is give the can a good airing out. The things in your van with higher heat capacity such as furniture, appliances, water jugs etc. etc is where the heat is stored & doesn't change with the type of insulation you choose.
Does spray foam still cause sheet metal warping even when you use sound deadening adhesive material on the large sheet metal areas?
This is a very good question. As I understand the problem is caused by the spray foam contracting as it dry's, as the metal is relatively thin and long this causes it to pull together. This is known in the roofing industry as oil canning. I think your idea may work. The foil top of most sound deadening should take the contraction. Maybe some one will test your theory out.
Using 'mineral wool' as generic is sketchy. You were tring to avoid ' rock wool' which is fire retardant and will not grow fungus.
not looking at other expanding foams that are fire retardant and uses a skinned install would be more forthright.
other wise not bad.
Adding heat pump ventilation would be usefull.
The temperature in which you apply it is what causes the warping, it needs to be applied in a minimum heat of 75 and more in the interior, best product to avoid thermal bridging.
What do you use for the insulation then?
THANK YOU !
Did you take any photos of the warping that happened after closed cell spay?
You build on 144 sprinters a lot but have you ever built on a Dodge ProMaster 136 wheelbase just curious if you could fit a small single bed shower sink toilet stove induction or propane small pantry some draws for clothing and a rooftop air conditioner exhaust fan solar and enough lithium batteries to be able to run the A/C
What if you do it in several steps and wait for it to cure?
Good info here!! .. I could robly uses spray in foam for my van as it's 1994, and a step van with sheet metal walls almost 1/8" thick!! .. but I'm going to use Board Styrofoam, with cans of spray foam to fill little gaps.
How to solve this issue is glue a layer of furniture style foam and make sure where the two pieces of metal come together fill that with foam too so it doesn’t allow spray foam to enter
Thanks for the great follow-up information.
I would of appreciated if you could talk about the Havelock Wool
Is the waving/deformity more of an issue with newer fiberglass vehicles? Would it work better on a more vintage model with metal body?
In my SUV i already knew of the high heat and set time of Closed cell Pro use spray foam ..Not the home depot set ups My trick with a friend was to run a few coats of rubber guard And then fast pass spray foam which works out to less than a inch..cured
The rubber acts as a heat transfur from the sheet metal The fast pass does not melt the rubber rather it blends with a small layer And holds to it My final was 2.5 inches Just under a R-21 value And keeping my paneling for warping As it is a custom "Rootbeer" paint I wasn't going to be happy with waves
What kind of rubber gaurd?
Guard
@@saraheasongis2376 Gravel Guard Black Rocker Panel Coating Dominion Sure Seal SVG124...Brand names don't really matter
I was thinking the same thing! So first a rubber spray against the inner bare/clean metal skin, making sure to cover every single surface of metal 100%, then use spray foam to fill in everything for insulation! Someone let me know if that that would be a good strategy! I know it's probably more expensive, but maybe it's the best way for water vapor sealing! Also I heard the some vehicles have drain holes on the inside skins to allow for drying of the inside metal. If I did a 100% rubber inner skin seal, I might cover the drain holes??
@@TheForwardThinker So at the bottom picture two 8 foot "tubes" AKA The rocker panels These are more to do with exterior cosmetics that use The have drain holes Because water does drip down from windows And condensation This also carries the dirt / road salt And is one of the famous rust spots because mud takes longer to dry Thus soft paint And rust Don't Foam in there Rather foam on the inside of the van from it I I
would be interested to hear the Dr. comment on moisture/r-value of closed cell spray foam and see video or pics of the deformed sheet metal problems you describe. Thoughts on/ experience with products like lizard skin sound dampening/ insulation system?
I just found out about the heat issue the hard way. I sprayed my van in raptor liner last summer. All good till I got spray insulation. I have lots of cracks in raptor liner now 😔
Have you tried seacork? It can be sprayed or installed as panels
I don't know what kind of foam you were using but I had two Transit vans done and no issues with skin deformation. I did it extra thick (about 2"), I'm in Florida where it's super hot, so maybe if you are in a cold climate that's the key.
Thanks for the update! Like #650. Watched the ads.
What's your take on (semi) rigid foam panels, such as polyiso foam? I've heard some people swear by it, but it seems there's still a risk of moisture condensing in the gap between the foam board and van skin. Interested in your thoughts.
I have also have this same question. I'm sure Advanced RV has a good reason for using thinsulate instead of polyiso or xps rigid panels. I would be grateful and very curious to know what that reason is. Advanced RV?
What is causing the warping?
If it’s the foam pressing the panel out because it expands too much couldn’t you apply it in thinner coats or use a less expanding foam?
If it’s the heat, how come when your vehicle is in direct sunlight it doesn’t warp?
If it’s the foam adhering to the panel and the differential tension between the metal side and the inside, why not place polythene sheet (Saran wrap) on the flat panels first so the foam can’t stick to the panel?
If polythene isn’t an option as a “slip layer”, how about a coat of oil, wax or some other lubricious layer?
Having the foam easily removable because it’s not stuck to the panels would have the added advantage that it would make accident repairs and modifications far easier to deal with down the road.
I think the issue is the relatively high LOCAL temps that are generated as the foam is applied. That will cause the surrounding cooler metal to deform. Also, It will melt any poly film that is inserted. Using oil or wax is counterproductive because the foam needs adhere to the surface and you still have the melting issue.
Good ideas, but they break down on closer analysis. The joys of engineering :-/
jaminthomas
I’ve used spray foam to make custom seats and it didn’t melt the bin-bags I used. Even if it did, there are heat resistant films that could be used and the adhesion wouldn’t be a problem if there were a couple of spots left uncovered to let it stick to.
@@amymalimichi377 If it were the cost you can be sure that ARV would never tell you “we decided not to use something because it was more expensive”. I’ve certainly never seen them say that he said not to use something because it was more expensive
I've seen many spray foam insulation in vans and cargo trailer applications with no issues at all..aside from maybe it being messy..I think it depends on how thick you were to spray the layers on..The ones who have had good luck, did it the right way! Like very project, it depends on how you do it!! Do it right or do it in a hurry!!
It causes big issues over time. I worked in the rv capital of the world Elkhart from 97 until 2018, and the explorer van conversion companies i worked in for a yr. There is a reason it didn't pass for use in these but for unbellys. Over time it gets moisture build up causing rust and the list rolls on.
and how about armaflex style insulation?
I'm thinking lining the walls with some type of thin panels and spraying the insulation on to that. Would that work?
that is a theory that I would be testing out on my 2019 Ford transit high roof extended
Not sure if you have already addressed this question, but I have noticed you typically don't install solar anymore. What is the thought process that has moved you away from installing panels?
Thank you for the question. Many of our clients forego solar because their lithium batteries + aux alternator are enough to keep them off grid during their trips. We still install panels for clients who foresee solar being more useful.
@@AdvancedRV ahh that makes perfect sense. Love how you at Adanced RV put so much thought into your designs and products, so always great to hear from the professionals on why you fit out the way you do :)
Have you any experience with Havelock Wool insulation?
Did you not get their multiple audio and graphic references to the video on insulation this one is in reply to or are you just shamelessly plugging Havelock wool?
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath explain
I'm still waiting for a hybrid van that I can make into a tiny house where I have a solar system that gives me miles on the road as well as hot water in the shower and heat/ac
Matthew Marbaker I'm living in mine while converting it.
@@TimFuller haven't found a hybrid van large enough
The Zenith Promaster is electric 🤷♀️
You can tint the windshield with ceramic/carbon film?
Do you have a link to more info on how or where to get the great reflective coating?
I was thinking; Tape off the interior in 6” or 8” grids and peel tape just after spraying to provide relief cuts where the foam can’t pull the panels. Fill in the gridlines later……But upon reading other comments, I believe the distortion results from overzealous use under the supports. Applying low expansion foam in those areas first (per the coach builder) will eliminate distortions if you don’t force a piece of wood down on the relatively firm foam……And now I’m thinking that an application of low expanding foam all over (or what about the ceramic microsphere insulating paint?) coupled with natural wool would be superior….It seems that having an insulating coating adhering tightly to the metal is imperative to prevent condensation.
good info! thanks!
That deformation of the sheet metal only happens on sprinters as they use poor/thin sheet metal and have less bracing. Have done dozens of transits, pro masters and sprinters. The LWB and LWB sprinters are rubbish body wise. Transits in particular are fine. Going by your photos you have the mix wrong on your poly.
Sad that the issue seems to be your poor workmanship , not the product
Where did you see the photos? A wrong mix can definitely cause the foam to shrink and crack, but they said they had a foam rep in to try several things, and I'd assume that person would know what they were doing.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, very classy!
So I'm watching you guys and learning about this distortion from spray foam and wondering to myself...."What happens if you spray glue a layer of poly or even, since we're talking a relatively small area, pre-cover with a layer of sticky aluminum tape like for HVAC? Would a medium layer of spray on Teflon coating right before application work? The dude who solves this simple problem will likely be considered more of a god than even I am. #hobomessiah
You mentioned mineral wool, which is not %100 wool. What about Havlock Wool which is pure wool treated for insect invasion. With Havlock Wool you don't need a vapor barrier. The reason you gave in regards to Mineral wool wouldn't apply to Havlock Wool. So my question is do you have a problem with using Havlock Wool? And if so what is the problem with using it?
The fact that spray foam will contort the sheet metal is surprising. It must be as thin as paper!
D LG It is actually paper thin.
I have worked in construction and with expanding foam. One has to be really careful when applying it. I have seen door and window frames warping so much that the windows/doors were not opening the next day after installation.
@@tsalesto It's surprising there isn't some kind of spray foam that doesn't expand so aggressively.
@@MisterFuturtastic there is
@@MisterFuturtastic Every lumber yard and big box home improvement store carries low-expansion foam specifically labelled and marketed for sealing around window and door frames.
I'm NOT surprised 🔨🤯😝your foam expert knows did diddley squat about Oil Canning :
Oil Canning can be defined as visible waviness in the flat areas of metal roofing and metal wall panels. In technical terms, oil canning is referred to as elastic buckling (more commonly known as “stress wrinkling”). It can occur in any type of metal panels: steel, aluminum, zinc, or copper.
NOT BEING A FOAM EXPERT....I would just guess that the inside of the van skin on the foam cures first & then further expansion pushes toward the metal side, which causes oil canning....and when u scrape it off is gone....
I insulated a 7 x 18 trailer so when parked in full 100F sun cooled inside to 72F using around 280 watt hours on a 24 hour basis....or about 3,000 Btu load using a SEER 20 mini split...
cheers OverTheTopCargoTrailer
I'm curious and you gotta always be looking for content so fill us in on vacuum insulated panels. R-50 in a half inch form factor IIRC. Takes some special install mojo and it isn't cheap but given the specifics of van builds it might be a luxury option? #hobomessiah Enjoy.
You have to use a low pressure expansion foam or a pre-expanded foam.
They failed to mention the one main advantage of spraying foam and that is it will fill all the voids that you can’t reach with any other type of insulation in a van. when you use other types of insulation, in order to get it into as many voids as possible you have to compress them and they’ve already admitted that that’s not what you’re supposed to do with insulation. you need the air. When you compress insulation you reduce the R-value wherever you compress it.
Exactly, it is the trapped air
that provides the insulation.
Why dont you use window and door foam to prevent this?
Dear sir, thank you for doing these videos. They are enlightening. Question. you said in the previous video that applying a vapor barrier on the inside to prevent moisture from seeking its way into the skin of the van behind the insulation, is one of the recommendations you propose. First, what type of vapor barrier do you recommend? I assume that whichever plastic material you use, you would also need to buy the tape that will go with it to connect and seal it tight. The other question is that there are significant wholes that, say connect the cab to the back of the van or air vents on the roof, or openings for AC, etc. creating air and a vapor-tight seal is very problematic. wouldn't be better to assume that moisture is going to find its way, no matter what. then focus on air movement and drying as a mitigation factor?
Have you been drinking the Humble Road kool-aid? Never get engineering advice from a retired watch photographer. When there’s an electrical fire in one of Humble Road’s builds the fire will spread like wildfire due to his design paranoia about leaks and mold. If a van builder never brings up the subject of how you get out of the van quickly if there’s a fire, and I have yet to hear this discussed, you should be very suspect of everything they do or don’t do related to fire suppression. Most of these builds actually block the inside door handle to the rear doors with a bed structure right up against them. There have been so many tragic building fires where hundreds of people died because of blocked or locked fire exits. You should consider your rear doors on your van as one of several fire exits. Recently five people in a wedding party limo died in SF Bay Area in a fire because they couldn’t get the rear limo doors open. Imagine what panic it’s going to be like when you wake up disoriented from a deep sleep in a Smoke-filled van after the smoke detector goes off.
So what do you use to insulate vans. You never said
the problem with the foam is you didn't use a professional company with a graco machine. you did the double canister yourself trick on a mercedes diesel that's over $150k completed or better...Hire a spray foam guy for an older build and see the true results. I did mine if you wanna see it...yes i own a spray foam business, and yes i agree it does deform the panels a little, but it's the way to go if you want to hang in you van in the artic... or the desert for that matter
Where are you?
@@saraheasongis2376 Il/Wi border south beloit
I tried spraying polyurethane out of a aerosol can. I couldn't control the thickness and keep the surface relatively smooth.
There is a spray foam product that is pre expanded. They use it when pumping spray foam into existing construction.
@@colleenkaralee2280 It's a speciality item. It is generally installed in older homes where they pump it in from teh outside so that it pushes any existing insulation inward. I would start here. www.hunker.com/13415694/non-expanding-foam-types
*IF APPLIED WRONG OR AT WRONG TEMPERATURE THEN SPRAY FOAM WILL WARP VAN WALLS. Pls see Eamon and Bec vans.*
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I might have missed this but if the materials mentioned in the video are less than ideal, what is the right insulation?
Thanks for the question LJ. You might find our "What We Know (and don't know) About Insulation" video helpful. There we talk about the insulation materials we do use.
Thanks for the info. As always, very instructive
can you use a thin barrier between panel and foam?
i avoided foam insulation because i've used it in construction projects and know that it expands a bit forcefully when dry. i've seen so many youtube videos of people spraying their vans... glad i listened to my experience before using it in my van.
also, the ceramic window tint is amazing! i have it on the front doors and it made a huge difference.
The deformation happens because of cheap metal on Mercedes. I helped a friend spray foam his Transit and it's all fine. Plus the Sprinter rusts way quicker than Ford
Re: Spray Foam, Thin sheet metal on these “Euro” style vans??
interesting. i've seen dozens of vans with spray foam that had NO damage/difference/dimpling to the metal of the van.
It takes a trained eye to see the deformation, you have to see it from the right angle, also noticeable on larger vans.
@@peterbeyer5755 oh come on now LOL that's a bit of a stretch. so we mere mortals wouldn't be able to tell if there was damage haha
@@daratatum6111 I agree, if it takes a trained eye to see it then I'm not terribly worried. Especially as mine is a 2007 model that's getting old.
Someone paying 100k+ for a van might be picky.
I wanna see what ur talkin about with sray foam
What was the point of masks? I switched off when you removed them.
OK I had high hopes for this video.. Sadly the video is overly cumbersome and not sure it actually addressed what you o use NOW to insulate.
Put a layer of plastic on first then spray,but beware it may sweat between plastic and metal needs testing
Best Q&A ever! 👍
Thanks for this video. I was leaning towards the mineral wool,Roxul. It does crumble. And I have seen the sheet boards in the store. That would be a special order.
After watching this I won't be using it
Why not?
Not sure why I said I wouldn't be using it. But maybe because it crumbles. And more difficult to work with. The thinsulate comes in different thickness and in a roll. I believe it can have a reflective side on it.
It doesn’t crumble, it’s semi rigid avail in 1-6 2x4 panels with foil facing. It’s used in acoustical panels cause it’s one of the best insulation for sound and thermal properties
First you need to worry about not getting it in wrong areas. Secondly, you need to let it dry to reapply in layers. Third, it leaves a residual smell for days and is overall a much messier job. I would NOT recommend it unless its done by a pro with experience.
thanks
This gentleman on the left sounds like he's doing a dead on William Hurt impression
I wouldnt use spray insulation myself....to many off gasses in an enclosed area.
Is shorty in depression ? 😢
You have to spray first layer very thin.
wonder how the spray on insulation would work with a fiberglass shell RV? Anyone tried it does that also deform?
I have a scamp.good question.i would assume it would only warp if the foam was between 2 skins
Please let me know if you do spray it
mineral wool: asbestos' cousin
All of the non-pros in the comments. There is a reason the rv industry doesn't use spray foam either. I worked the industry in Elkhart, IN, from 97 until 16 and still know many people in it, and no body got it to pass testing yet. Do not use it.
My mate own a bodyshop business and when gets vehicles in with that crap on the price goes thru the roof cuz he got to remove most of it first before he repairs or replace panels cuz of the welding
I’m sure the price goes thru the roof anyway because they have to remove everything on the inside where the damage is. You can always remove all of that stuff yourself and save lots of money If you don’t have insurance paying for it.
*Airplanes don't bother with vapour barriers.*
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What is up with the camera guy?
Why do you say fiberglass is no good for vans?
Fiberglass batts aren't a good choice because they absorb water like a sponge. Then the wet batts sag and compress under their own weight, resulting in the loss of most of the insulative value. Worse, when the weather is warm enough, mold will quickly grow on wet fiberglass batts. I'd stick with a hygrophobic insulation like mineral wool or Thinsulate.
Alone in yalls garage, wearing masks... I instantly no longer care about this video hahaha
Rockwall is too heavy.
I was about to click off and thankfully you took those WRETCHED, UNHEALTHY MUZZLES off. Ty.
As soon as I saw the social distance and masks…I had a quick understanding that you guys are goofy and probably a good place to avoid
Things in videos that don't agree well. Heck, they were terrible ideas at the time.
Why the mask at the beginning
This sounds like BS. Whenever somebody, made out as the expert, talks in vague generalities I get suspicious they’re not telling the whole truth. What happened to ARV’s in-house PHd who was in the video that this refers to? Sometimes it’s more important watch someone doesn’t say than what they do say. Mike does NOT say that the unnamed representative from a foam company could not get results without it warping the van. He said “we just couldn’t come up with a good solid solution that does everything we needed it to. What does that mean? When ARV’s in-house PhD was talking about the use of wool in a previous video he wouldn’t even commit that it’s definitely wrong not to use a vapor barrier when using wool. That;s because they admitted they give the customer whatever they want whether it’s bad and might cause mold and other issues or not. In that case for that van they specifically said that the owner specified they had to use wool and not use a vapor barrier and they said the customer always gets what they want. Science be damned.
Foam has a bad reputation because of the use of formaldehyde foam in houses years ago that cost health problems and they know that, so I think that the reputation from the use of formaldehyde foam has caused these guys stay away from it but they won’t tell you that because they know it’s not logical to blame modern foam for what formaldehyde foam did. They want to have their cake and eat it too they want appear to be the expert’s but they’re willing to go along with whatever the customer wants and they’re not gonna put down their customer so they have to justify the idiocies of their customers. You can be the expert or you can go along with the flow but you can’t do both.
If your going to answer questions that are known in advance why wouldn't you script your answers, standing there with the umm uhhh umm uhh during your statements are so very annoying.
When you visualize you getting punked by fauci forever
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