Break Testing Knots - Zeppelin & Figure 8 & Alpine Butterfly & Reever & Bowline & Double Fisherman

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  • čas přidán 28. 05. 2024
  • We broke 6 knots end to end and in a bend (a loop). 40 samples total. Let us know on our discord page for our new series of How Knot to Tie Ropes on format and the testing you want to see. / discord
    We tested a 7mm Edelweiss rope (www.edelweiss-ropes.com/en/cor...) with a 9.8kn MBS. We are not sure why Edelrid's 7mm rope is 14kn (www.edelrid.de/en/sports/acce... Do you know?
    Carl Mitchell prepared all the samples and shipped them to us. Thank you! And thank you Bobby for breaking these!
    ➜➜➜A colored sexy spreadsheet can be seen at www.slackline.com/lotsofknots. Otherwise it is all below and all the forces are in KN
    Knots -Zeppelin Loop Whip 9.05
    Knots -Zeppelin Loop Whip 8.85
    Knots -Zeppelin Loop Whip 9.05
    Knots -Zeppelin Loop 9.1
    Knots -Zeppelin Loop 9.6
    Knots -Zeppelin Loop 8.9
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Loop 8.5
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Loop 7.95
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Loop 8.5
    Knots - Figure 8 Loop 9.65
    Knots - Figure 8 Loop 9.45
    Knots - Figure 8 Loop 10.35
    Knots - Reever Loop 8.25
    Knots - Reever Loop 8.7
    Knots - Reever Loop 8.45
    Knots - Bowline 8.05
    Knots - Bowline 8.1
    Knots - Bowline 9.1
    Knots - Double Fishermen’s Bend 19.3
    Knots - Double Fishermen’s Bend 19.95
    Knots - Double Fishermen’s Bend 18.2
    Knots - Zeppelin Bend 18.35
    Knots - Zeppelin Bend 16.2
    Knots - Zeppelin Bend 16.95
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Parallel 11.25
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Parallel 17.5
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Parallel 18.55
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Perpendicular 13.1
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Perpendicular 12.75
    Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Perpendicular 9.4
    Knots - Reever Bend 19.5
    Knots - Reever Bend 18
    Knots - Reever Bend 19.7
    Knots - Flemish Bend 18.15
    Knots - Flemish Bend 16.85
    Knots - Flemish Bend 17.9
    Knots - Sheet Bend 5.55
    Knots - Sheet Bend 4.75
    Knots - Sheet Bend 4.7
    Bonus - butterfly in loop 14.9
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    00:00 40 Samples to Test
    04:14 Tour of knots
    05:41 Zeppelin Loop with Whip
    06:08 Zeppelin loop
    07:17 Alpine Butterfly Loop
    08:19 Figure 8 Loop
    09:05 Reever loop
    10:00 Bowline
    11:01 Double Fishermans
    11:49 Zeppelin Bend
    12:16 Alpine Butterfly Bend
    13:01 Other Alpine Butterfly Bend
    13:48 Reever bend
    14:27 Flemish Bend
    15:07 Sheet Bend (Broke LOW)
    15:37 Bonus Test
    16:46 Conclusion WITH CHART

Komentáře • 558

  • @HowNOT2
    @HowNOT2  Před 6 měsíci +3

    Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

    • @wormball
      @wormball Před 6 měsíci +3

      your sheet bend is wrong, both free ends of the ropes should face the same side

    • @MB-jg4tr
      @MB-jg4tr Před 5 měsíci

      Please follow up with these knots in drop tests. Thanks

  • @chrisdecker7237
    @chrisdecker7237 Před 2 lety +233

    Ryan.... Please just..... never stop making videos. I'm totally enthralled. Thanks for what you do.

  • @OldSloGuy
    @OldSloGuy Před 2 lety +7

    Your work is truly important. Ashley wrote his famous book of knots in the late 1930s. He used mostly 3 strand hemp cord since nylon was still in the laboratory until it got its start in women's hosiery and parachute cord during the war. Needless to say, twisted organic fibers behave differently than braided synthetic fibers. So certain properties like a tendency to jam with organics may not be as severe with synthetics, and other knots than seemed to be secure with organic rope will loosen or creep with synthetics if the load is cyclic. The old adage about tied, dressed and set is always good advise, but you now have the ability to inspect knots under increasing strain to see how they change shape under load. Some of these knots seem to get lumpy rather than simply smaller under load. It would be interesting to see how loose knots can be upset and change their form under load. Some well tied knots may also have this property. Then, there is the difference between kernmantle and double braided rope as well as nylon versus polyester in typical climbing ropes. HMWPE or Dynema behaves differently then we are used to.Yes, I left out the aramids, but this is post getting too long.

    • @christiffany6680
      @christiffany6680 Před rokem

      tied, dressed & set properly:
      yes! The Yosemite bowline can be
      and has been mis-tied (dressed carelessly)
      with tragic results.

  • @brainscrub7976
    @brainscrub7976 Před 2 lety +315

    The difference between a knot and a bend is kinda vague and often misused, but basically a knot holds its shape on its own. A knot used to tie two rope ends together (or the opposite ends of the same rope) is called a bend. A figure-8 is a knot. But if you tie two ropes together using a figure-8 so that the ropes exit on opposite sides of the knot, then that is called a flemish bend. An overhand knot is a knot, but when used to tie rope ends together its called an overhand bend. A hitch is a knot that falls apart if you remove the thing it's tied around, like a clove hitch.

  • @greenlaufer
    @greenlaufer Před 2 lety +39

    "Because we make the best gear in the game..."
    OK that made my day....

  • @trikael
    @trikael Před 2 lety +86

    Here are a few thoughts:
    First establish a baseline rope strength by breaking some unknotted rope attached to largish diameter anchorages, e.g. a "bollard" or "capstan" type anchorage, using a several round turns and a high strength tie off.
    Then test knots in a way that simulates normal use cases (i.e., bends to join tails, loop knot to form loops), but avoids tight radius attachments ( use smooth but large shackles instead of carabiners).
    Now that you've got a estimate of rope strength and knot efficiency, apply the knowledge to more "real life" configurations and loads: use carabiners where appropriate, use drops to simulate climbing falls, and some sort of "slackline simulation" by dropping a load normal (perpendicular) to a tensioned line anchored with the knot in question.

    • @trollmcclure1884
      @trollmcclure1884 Před 2 lety +2

      Yes, a bollard is a must. They should divide the failure points of bends not by 2 but rather 1 and something because there's clearly two ropes and when the bend slips, the other side gets shorter and pulls the rope over the edge of a carabiner. It would be better to call the test unvalid and do it properly

    • @brettknoss486
      @brettknoss486 Před rokem +1

      I'd look at securing the rope with clamps to ensure the rope fails at the knot or at a random point in the rope. I would also like to see the Ashley bend tested.

    • @Jayizzy433
      @Jayizzy433 Před 10 měsíci +2

      ⁠@@trollmcclure1884
      What? The point is they’re showing it’s breaking point in real world application… I don’t climb with bollards. I just want to know if replacing my cam sling with a 7mm bend/loop will be over the kn of the cam itself…
      And other such applications.

    • @trollmcclure1884
      @trollmcclure1884 Před 10 měsíci

      @@Jayizzy433 you'd still benefit from unbiased result using a bollard. Unless you make slings between two carabiners using these knots just like them. Otherwise it's a bogus claim. Alpine butterfly should be tested using the loop, not the sides. If they break in the knot then the test is valid. If it breaks over the edge of a carabiner then using a bollard would be better to test the strength of the knot.
      Still interesting to get an answer just when I'm doing rope access after a year or so. We use only figure 8 and Alpine butterfly so that everyone is familiar with it and can check the anchor and trust it. I'm gonna produce a video soon because one guy expressed a concern over my 12 year old dyneema sling. A believe it will still pull 2 ton concrete block. He said it will hold 500 kg. Nonsense. It's not been used much at all

  • @PrimitiveBeasty
    @PrimitiveBeasty Před 2 lety +7

    Would love to see more knot videos. The volume of tests here was just fine for me.
    I would like to suggest a video where you break a series of knots dressed well/poorly/differently, showing how dressing the knot can change how it upsets/slips/breaks.
    Also please test heavy weights on the drop tower, us 300+ pounders are terribly interested.

  • @d4r4butler74
    @d4r4butler74 Před 2 lety +11

    Too many Knots? Yes and no. Yes if you were wanting specifics on 1 particular knot; no from a purely entertainment front. I enjoyed the Video, and seeing the many different ways the knots and or ropes responded to the pull.
    Your idea to deep dive into 1 Knot in a video is great! I like some of the ideas that the comments section has too. Keep up the great work!

  • @danwoodman7196
    @danwoodman7196 Před 2 lety +107

    As a lifelong knot nerd, I love the ideas you're proposing. The classic knot bible, Ashley Book of Knots (ABOK), makes lots of prescriptions on how knots should be set up and modified for different circumstances. Since it predated 1) synthetic materials and 2) the modern climbing/slacklining movements, I would love to see its dictums tested in a contemporary context. The possibilities are endless. For example, the sheet bend in this video broke easily. What about a slipped (quick release) sheet bend? Is is so weak that its convenience is almost irrelevant? Or a doubled sheet bend, which I've seen mariners use to tow vessels. Does that extra wrap make up for all the slippage? Or stopper knots. Do the fancy ones actually perform better than a simple overhand in practice? The possibilities are endless. ABOK is also just a delight to read about the different ways professions used knots, which kinda keeps with your vision to expand the channel beyond straight slackline content. I could see content based around "does XX historical set-up actually test well, and what could we learn from it?" Super excited for any of your future knot vids!

    • @daltonsband
      @daltonsband Před 2 lety +6

      THIS!!!
      Hallowed is Lord Ashby

    • @sstorholm
      @sstorholm Před 2 lety +3

      Well, everything in that book is basically hearsay, and his intention was just to catalogue them. I’d wager that most things in the book holds true for manilla rope, but for synthetics it’s a different story, especially slippery Dyneema for example.

    • @trikael
      @trikael Před 2 lety +3

      @@sstorholm Dyneema is it's own world. Nylon and polyester are "normal" fibers these days, but not much that applies to them should be applied to the HMPEs (Dyneema and Spectra). That's a whole 'nother conversation...

    • @SukSukulent
      @SukSukulent Před 2 lety

      Yes, another knot nerd!

    • @sstorholm
      @sstorholm Před 2 lety

      @@trikael yupp, never worked with a weirder rope in my life

  • @carlaitken116
    @carlaitken116 Před 2 lety +5

    The proper use of a Sheet bend is to tie 2 ropes of different Diameters. Like a smaller line attached to a ships docking rope.
    It would be cool to see the knot tested in its correct function. the larger Diameter forms a bite while the smaller diameter rope / cord circles around it.
    It can also be used on Tarps and sand bags (where a bite is created from the tarp or sandbag material)
    Thanks for sharing another great video!

    • @christiffany6680
      @christiffany6680 Před rokem

      a small sandbag can be used as a heaving weight,
      like a monkey's fist, but
      Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER
      is a better alternative.

  • @jeffcapeshop
    @jeffcapeshop Před 2 lety +29

    What I want to see from a knot video: how it break, of course!, but also: what you would use it for, what you wouldn't use it for and when it can be dangerous, how to tie it, how it is to untie, why you like it over other knots, or why you prefer to use another knot in real world use.

    • @HowNOT2
      @HowNOT2  Před 2 lety +6

      Yes, where it is used would probably be more helpful than finding out it breaks at 50% of MBS haha

  • @ejooop3934
    @ejooop3934 Před 2 lety +3

    Absolutely love the idea of only 1 kind of knot with different ropes or conditions and the full explanation

  • @DavidRichfield
    @DavidRichfield Před 2 lety +20

    As others have pointed out, the sheet bends here were all tied the wrong way, with the working ends on opposite sides of the knot, but that shows that it's a knot that should be approached with lots of caution. A zeppelin bend doesn't seem to have a "wrong way", and it's easy to undo. A carrick bend even more so. If you urgently need to connect two ropes and you don't mind having to cut the rope later, do an EDK or a double fisherman's. The EDK is the easiest bend to tie, and it doesn't deserve its bad reputation, as long as you leave enough of a tail for it to capsize once.

    • @arzthaus
      @arzthaus Před rokem +2

      I like to tie an EDK and then use that knot to tie an alpine butterfly. That way it's much easier to untie under load

    • @Gr8tBlueHeron
      @Gr8tBlueHeron Před rokem +4

      I'd also like to see how much better a double sheet bend holds.

    • @Mike_Rogge
      @Mike_Rogge Před 6 měsíci +1

      The Carrick bend does have a wrong way, the method taught in the 13th edition scout handbook puts the loops in opposite directions instead of the same, which allows the knot to "unwind" in the same manner as a thief's knot. This was tested by me in 3/8" nylon sailing line, 1/2" decommissioned climbing rope (material unknown, looked like static), and assorted sizes of manila and sisal. Only the sisal didn't slip, which is irrelevant as sisal never slips and breaks easily.

  • @GavynPendleton
    @GavynPendleton Před 2 lety +16

    That was fun! Shout out to that double fisherman. Thanks for all of your work

    • @1-t254
      @1-t254 Před 2 lety +1

      That one surprised me. I was under the impression the double fisherman's bend was a significant weak point.

    • @solandri69
      @solandri69 Před 2 lety +2

      @@1-t254 I'm a fisherman. I looked up the double fisherman knot and it looks like a simplified uni-to-uni knot, which is widely regarded as the best quick way to join two fishing lines (near 100% break strength). It works because as you pull it tight, the wraps cinch up and clamp down on the other line. And you get a double finger-puzzle effect spreading the load over a length of line, instead of concentrating it at a pressure point which can cut the line. In the uni knot, the wraps go around both lines. In the double fisherman the wraps only go around the opposite line.

  • @MrJinXiao
    @MrJinXiao Před 2 lety +17

    Loving the end screen disclaimer!
    Re: rope strength differences. Yeah it might be differences in test setup, but it _is_ possible to have the exact same diameter of rope made of the same materials be stronger. Two ways:
    1) the weaker rope may have a thicker sheath, but thinner core.
    2) the stronger rope might have longer polymer chains with less defects in the core strands.

    • @levinkuk3427
      @levinkuk3427 Před 11 měsíci

      Ýou are right, thank's for pointing this out! Additionally the way it is woven could make a difference I think.

  • @kymani062497
    @kymani062497 Před 2 lety +18

    Hey man i do a lot of high scaling for work and I'm very knew to the whole rigging and ropes and knots, this stuff helps out a lot for learning when I'm not at work

  • @C2toC4
    @C2toC4 Před 2 lety +8

    Thanks again, great video.
    Here's an idea:
    Put the rope through a pulley on each side instead of directly through a carabiner. This way the load on each side of the carabiner would be equivalent in this configuration. (Rather than the knot side of the rope stretching more than the other, which puts differential stress on each side of the carabiner). This would also achieve a higher bending radius which might be more useful when testing knots, rather than having the carabiner impact the results. Essentially it easily takes a variable out of the equation..
    Just an idea!
    Thanks again for sharing! Useful for everyone that literally puts their life on the (a) line every day especially!

  • @FT4Freedom
    @FT4Freedom Před 2 lety +4

    This channel is powerful for the mind of climbers. I climb trees and it's relatively safe compared to rock climbing. I love to climb safe. Safety is a beautiful thing. Climbing for enjoyment and knot to push the limit.

    • @christiffany6680
      @christiffany6680 Před rokem

      Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER
      is a better alternative.

  • @Daniel-zc7fc
    @Daniel-zc7fc Před 2 lety +2

    Ooh man how i love the bowline

  • @ls2005019227
    @ls2005019227 Před 2 lety +10

    This is exactly the kind of testing I've been looking for! Thanks for putting this together-
    I realize that this is geared towards climbing; but testing different knots across a variety of different rope types would also be very interesting.

  • @lw671
    @lw671 Před 2 lety +19

    The 9.8 kN MBS value is exact what the technical standard EN564 requires: In Europe Edelweiss is more a budget brand, so I expect they produced a rope “good enough” and then simply save money by testing not more than required and selling it labelled with a probably too low but save MBS value.
    But it has to be tested according to the same EN564 test procedure like the Edelrid, which defines the way of attachment.

    • @androssgetzko2098
      @androssgetzko2098 Před 2 lety +1

      That´s wrong and unfair to Edelweiss. Edelweiss is a specialist for climbing ropes and for example produced the first climbing ropes which were specially shielded against abrasion from sharp rocks. There are definitely no "budget brand".

    • @lw671
      @lw671 Před 2 lety +3

      @@androssgetzko2098 Ok, your comment about 'budget 'is fully right looking at their product range. I should have been more precise and said that this is what they appear to be in some countries around, what seems to be more a marketing/lack off distributor issue.

  • @-IVXII
    @-IVXII Před 2 lety +3

    I think the single knot video idea is genius, it really turns all of this time and energy y’all put in into a resource for everyone, like all of us nerds who would watch anyways and broader to people who are just trying to learn a knot while simultaneously exposing them to the deeper and more nuanced things to consider around rope and knot tying.
    Personally I can’t wait to watch some of you guys run individual knots through a battery of different tests.

  • @NatetheAceOfficial
    @NatetheAceOfficial Před 2 lety +11

    I really like the idea of showing how to untie a tightened knot. With my fat ass sitting on the rope most of the time, I've come by the knowledge honestly.

  • @jlhgrace8284
    @jlhgrace8284 Před rokem

    Impressed with the double fishermen's knot.

  • @samweiss3248
    @samweiss3248 Před 2 lety +5

    If you're planning on doing a video on bowlines, I highly recommend looking up the PACI Bowlines Analysis paper. The author goes into detail of what exactly is a bowline and its various variations. It's specific to climbing, and it'd be a good jumping-off point for your research for the video.

  • @thatwolfyouknow8598
    @thatwolfyouknow8598 Před 2 lety +3

    Yes, please do a whole series on bowlines!

  • @tobiasbrewin4355
    @tobiasbrewin4355 Před 2 lety +18

    One thing to consider when looking at these results: As each sample had a knot on each side, we are only seeing the strength of the weaker of the 2 knots. So in theory this will reduce the average strength, although all the results seem very consistent so I doubt it would make much difference

  • @markgregory3213
    @markgregory3213 Před 2 lety +15

    Great video! The sheet bend appeared to be tied differently than the way I was taught. Both bitter ends should be on the same side of the knot. Perhaps they would break rather than slip. Perhaps (k)not?

    • @egericoolast
      @egericoolast Před 2 lety +9

      yup, the version in the video is known to be insecure.

    • @daviddroescher
      @daviddroescher Před 2 lety

      @@egericoolast would that also make this version a left cost sheet bend?

    • @egericoolast
      @egericoolast Před 2 lety

      @@daviddroescher Assuming auto correct messed you up, yes this is a left handed sheet bend

    • @daviddroescher
      @daviddroescher Před 2 lety

      @@egericoolast nope, play on words left cost =west cost / insecure = can't hold up under pressure. I've had residents in all 3eft cost states. Both have been more inland in more recent decades.

    • @christiffany6680
      @christiffany6680 Před rokem

      Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER
      is a better alternative.

  • @jamesgates9781
    @jamesgates9781 Před 2 lety

    I love the idea of various in depth knot videos. I whole heartedly support that idea! Excited for the drop tower!!

  • @LoneVanMan
    @LoneVanMan Před 2 lety +5

    Another, super good enough video. Bobby does great commentary 👍 Fascinating to see how the different knots act under pressure.

  • @raydenrs3746
    @raydenrs3746 Před 2 lety +2

    I have always been using double fishermens for the ease of tying one and most importantly its super easy to untie when its pulled hard on. Im happy knowing that it did so well.

    • @14guitars67
      @14guitars67 Před rokem +4

      ??? Double fishermen's locks up tight under very little pressure. Often can only be untied with a sharp knife. :-) Literally the hardest knot to untie of all in this video.

  • @AmNothi
    @AmNothi Před 2 lety +2

    watching the rope move while slipping is really interesting, thanks for putting this together all

  • @BrodyYYC
    @BrodyYYC Před 2 lety +1

    As a rope-access window cleaner that last pull on the butterfly was really interesting so thank you! Lot's of people will combine 2 ropes with a butterfly and some will biner it and others will biner it back to the ropes and some will just leave it. This pretty much confirms my thinking that the butterfly is super good enough but I'm ODC so I still biner it :P

  • @DreIsGoneFission
    @DreIsGoneFission Před 2 lety

    How dare you assume that this wouldn’t be entertaining. As an engineering student, this was most of what I did for my material science classes

  • @martingravdal7094
    @martingravdal7094 Před 2 lety +1

    Cool Ryan! Nice to get a confirmation that i should keep using my favourite knots :D Love the Zeplin!

  • @liambennett9323
    @liambennett9323 Před 2 lety +12

    I feel that the sheet bend result might be because it was not being tested in the usual use case, which is to the best of my knowledge is specifically to join a thin rope to a thick rope, where the thick rope forms the basic loop.
    This might mean that the knot was not tightening properly under load in your test as the two ends of the rope were tightening at the same rate; whereas when set up correctly the thinner rope would tighten around the larger one as well as onto its own running end, preventing slipping.

    • @Catcrumbs
      @Catcrumbs Před rokem +7

      He tied the sheet bend with the working ends on opposite sides of the knot, which is considered an error.

    • @moodywonka
      @moodywonka Před rokem

      @@Catcrumbs would not making this small error really make the knot that ineffective?

    • @Catcrumbs
      @Catcrumbs Před rokem +1

      @@moodywonka I can't find any empirical data on the subject. The sheet bend stands out in this video as having a very poor result, which does not seem likely to be a true reflection on the bend, considering its long-standing use. Just as a 'small' error makes an inferior granny knot of a reef knot, I think it's very possible that the sheet bend would do much better if tied conventionally.

    • @christiffany6680
      @christiffany6680 Před rokem

      Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER
      is a better alternative.

    • @christiffany6680
      @christiffany6680 Před rokem

      ​@@Catcrumbs Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER
      is a better alternative.

  • @ushi120
    @ushi120 Před 2 lety +7

    Thank you for the tests, I really appreciate your efforts.
    In my opinion the test with the sheet band could be repeated because the knot was tied incorrectly.
    Theoretically, the sheet bend should hold just as well as the bowline, since the sheet bend is nothing other than the bowline.
    Furthermore, it would be very interesting to see if a double or triple sheet band holds better.
    Thanks in advance

    • @bestknots
      @bestknots Před rokem

      No, sheet bend is loaded differently than bowline so you can not expect the same strength. Besides, usual sheet bend is tied so that both working ends are at the same side of the knot, not like the sheet bend in the test. That may have affected the results.

    • @christiffany6680
      @christiffany6680 Před rokem

      Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER
      is a better alternative.

  • @tomsmith3045
    @tomsmith3045 Před 10 měsíci

    This was awesome! You're underestimating how valuable this info is. My takeaways? The good knots are pretty good, and all pretty consistent with each other. That the sheet bend is an old knot that might work great on high friction old rope, but looks like not so good with modern line. That the bowline is underrated. That the figure 8 is great, but maybe I should be looking at fishermans for slippery rope. And finally, that the "make a loop thing" of course really does work, and because there's two lines is going to be stronger than the max breaking strength of a single line...even with the losses of the knots and the hardware. See? I learned a LOT and I'm pretty slow!

  • @drew5334
    @drew5334 Před 2 lety +1

    Love that How Knot to Break Ropes video idea, that sounds like a great way to get a good feel for how different knots handle

  • @michaelkork6773
    @michaelkork6773 Před 2 lety +1

    I’m so stoked for short vids all about one knot! Tying and all the break into would be so dope! I think like 7 min ish would be great. I think that you should start by showing the knot, then how to tie, then any errors or common mistakes in tying, then go through the breaking methods. Dope vid!

  • @SUDSY0
    @SUDSY0 Před 2 lety +1

    A high speed thermal cam would be cool to see... love the videos. Truly useful knowledge.

  • @Danny-of3sz
    @Danny-of3sz Před 10 měsíci

    This is what I been looking for/ waiting for, someone that shows and explains the various different knots and ropes as well as the functions for them an what not. I’m all for it!!

  • @matthewc.ganong5497
    @matthewc.ganong5497 Před 2 lety

    Thanks for doing this research to help us all, much appreciated! Really helps to narrow down which knot to use, after selecting a good rope, of course:)

  • @michaelwhitten2942
    @michaelwhitten2942 Před 2 lety

    Thanks Ryan, very interesting results, looking forward to more knot videos!!

  • @alistaircharlton8541
    @alistaircharlton8541 Před 6 měsíci

    This is another great video, love your content. I'm a sailor rather than a climber but there is so much crossover to learn from. I Have always been dubious of the sheet bend anyway which seems to be confirmed by the video. However, I was taught (rightly/wrongly?) that a sheet bend is used to tie dissimilar diameter ropes with the large rope folded over and the smaller rope forming the wrapped part of the knot (can go round twice for a double sheet bend). If the ropes are the same then a square/reef knot should be used, although this is another dubious knot for tail slippage! Good to see the easy-to-tie double fisherman do so well.

  • @jeanmorin3247
    @jeanmorin3247 Před 2 lety

    You run a good show. I'm subscribing after following for most of a year. Congratulations!

  • @johnwilson8434
    @johnwilson8434 Před 2 lety

    Wow That was fascinating to see alll those knots and bends compared in the same video . Many thanks Ryan! I will look forward to your individual knot tests too they shoulod offer some deeper insight.

  • @jparker4293
    @jparker4293 Před 2 lety

    I love most of your videos and especially the brake test ones. I am fascinated by knots and their braking strengths. I really like the idea of you making the videos about one knot at a time and covering how to tie it, a few variations, and braking strength.

  • @timkirkpatrick9155
    @timkirkpatrick9155 Před 2 lety

    Can't believe we watched the whole thing! glad we did.

  • @lasvisi
    @lasvisi Před 2 lety

    Wow that is realy a lot of work. Thank you for sharing your expirience!

  • @adriensanz2354
    @adriensanz2354 Před 2 lety +10

    I'm curious about the double bowline knot (in comparison with the figure 8) and the clove hitch if you have the time. Thanks for the videos, very much appreciated !

    • @shelmstedt
      @shelmstedt Před 2 lety

      Me too

    • @spencershields9186
      @spencershields9186 Před 2 lety

      Would also love to see the double bowline. That's my cragging knot.

    • @adriensanz2354
      @adriensanz2354 Před 2 lety

      @@spencershields9186 Yes this is super interesting but I think they did it a long time ago.

  • @megodzillaudeadable
    @megodzillaudeadable Před rokem

    I love your scientific approach to rope and all things about it!!! I test polymer coatings on metal at work and this is like a much more fun version of that!

  • @roamerreed
    @roamerreed Před 2 lety

    You're a legend. Never knew about slack lining and I'm thinking about trying it out. Understanding the load that you see on specific components has kind of been comforting as I figure out a setup to string in some trees. I'm from the Midwest so theres not a ton of cliffs to do this sort of thing, but I've already made a spacenet just need to get some slings and shackles.

  • @artis.ukraine
    @artis.ukraine Před 8 měsíci

    WOW GUYS! So excited! Thanks for this test!

  • @DanielFlores-ge4vs
    @DanielFlores-ge4vs Před 2 lety

    This channel just keeps getting better and better... Somehow, the Slacksnap machine and the rope/carabiner pop have entered a sort of ASMR category in my life which is both pleasant and scary as you never wanna hear that sound live outside a lab... Y'all are master sending this, it's awesome background entertainment and super useful data for doing whatever. KEEP IT UP!

  • @rockmcneill335
    @rockmcneill335 Před 2 lety

    This is great info. Look forward to the drop tests.

  • @buckmanriver
    @buckmanriver Před 2 lety

    Solid Work! Great Data! Great testing!

  • @patob3363
    @patob3363 Před 2 lety +2

    the boop sound effect is cute

  • @olibue3099
    @olibue3099 Před 11 měsíci

    Very good demonstrations

  • @ohokcool
    @ohokcool Před 11 měsíci

    Still waiting for the dedicated video on bowlines!

  • @jeff7086
    @jeff7086 Před 2 lety

    I have been watching a few of your vids but this one made me hit the SUB button. I love data and information on gear. And no this was not too much information. Well done

  • @norisordepraf
    @norisordepraf Před 2 lety

    your idea with the knots video is great!

  • @shadiester
    @shadiester Před 2 lety +14

    I'd be really curious to see how the normal alpine butterfly holds up when the loop and both ends are pulled in different directions
    Also, super keen for the drop tower knot tests!

    • @hugbearsx4
      @hugbearsx4 Před 2 lety +3

      I wonder whether a test scenario like this could be setup or not, in a manner that would make the results *relevant* for the real world. The results of such a test would depend greatly not only on what force is applied on the loop, but also on the angle of that force relative to the main line. But the most important variable is the length of the lines from the knot to the attachments. That length influences the angle of the main lines to the direction of the pull which, in turn, GREATLY affects the resulting force in the line - and that angle would also vary during every pull. So... which set of parameters would be relevant in terms of realism? There are literally an infinity of such sets of parameters.

    • @shadiester
      @shadiester Před 2 lety +1

      ​@@hugbearsx4 I agree but I think that makes it all the more interesting for me, I'm really curious to see how the knot behaves in each of those scenarios and therefore get a better understanding of the potential use cases and limitations of it. As for how you'd test it, that's ultimately up to Ryan to decide but you could possibly test it in the following 3 orientations:
      1. Loop and each of the ends pulled with equal force at 120° angles to each other (though I understand that that may not be super easy to set up).
      2. Loop and one end pulled in one direction with the force distributed across them, and the other end pulled in the opposite direction.
      3. Loop pulled in one direction and the ends pulled in the opposite direction
      And again, the point isn't necessarily to reproduce accurate results to what you might see in the real world, the point is to get an understanding of how the knot behaves under different scenarios.

  • @HJH413
    @HJH413 Před 2 lety +1

    Great videos. Hope the algorithm knows that I liked this, I subscribed it and wanted to say... Keep up the good work.

  • @mrnobody89
    @mrnobody89 Před 2 lety

    I think this one is favorite video so far. If I had your machine, I would just go through the Ashley Book of Knots and test each one.
    The bowline examples seemed loose to me, but I have never worked with climbing rope, so it may just lay differently in it.
    I'm excited to see the series you propose at the end. I look forward to it.

  • @PNWdude
    @PNWdude Před 2 lety

    Thanks for putting the data on screen! Great vid

  • @Lexcommentyoutube
    @Lexcommentyoutube Před 2 lety +3

    would love to see an entire video on bowlines, use them everyday at work both climbing on and lowering off them

    • @donaldgibson7369
      @donaldgibson7369 Před 2 lety

      I'd be interested in the strength of a re-threaded bowling as used to tie into my harness. I use that in preference to a rethreaded figure of eight as it can be untied easily after taking a fall - unlike the figure of eight (even if it is neatly dressed as suggested by some people)

    • @christiffany6680
      @christiffany6680 Před rokem

      See scott's simple secure
      locked tail bowline
      based on 'cowboy bowline'
      (tail outside the eye-loop);
      tail secured by bringing it
      inside the eye-loop and up
      through collar parallel to
      standing line.
      Secure,
      easy to tie,
      easy to untie,
      easy to check and
      unlikely to be mis-tied
      or poorly dressed & tightened.
      The standard bowline
      has LONG been known to be
      insecure if other than steady
      straight-line tension,
      (shaking the bowline can loosen it,
      which is why
      the cowboy bowline exists,
      putting the tail outside the eyeloop
      so horses are Less likely to shake it loose
      my GrandFather raised Quarter-horses, &
      back then, the natural-fiber ropes were irritating,
      so putting the tail outside the loop
      was less irritating AND a little more secure).
      Scott's simple secure
      locked tail bowline was one of only 3 or 4
      bowline variants that passed exhaustive testing
      by Search-&-Rescue research
      headed by Mark Gommers in Australia,
      and it is both
      simple and unmistakeable,
      as well as safe and secure...

  • @explosivemallard8038
    @explosivemallard8038 Před 2 lety +1

    Beautiful testing! I personally would prefer a link to an excel document with all of this data entered into it. Excel is by far the least fun way to get this data, but it's fast and how a lot of data is analyzed in all sorts of industries.
    This is nitpicking, but some of the knots tested here weren't "dressed" very tightly before testing. This may cause additional slipping and wear, resulting in premature failure. Also, this a huge commitment, but I'd like to see how data changes for various types of rope as well. I primarily use commercial 550 paracord, however also use some natural rope (might be jute, but I really don't know). It'd be interesting to see how different cords react, as they have different qualities and friction coefficients.
    Thank you for your wonderful testing and data.

  • @BrokenSofa
    @BrokenSofa Před 2 lety

    Fucking great idea to sort it by knots and rope categories. It's a really great resource for all involved with sports relying on knots and bends and whatever

  • @corvallismountainrescueuni1880

    Sheet bend appears to be tied incorrectly. Tied correctly, the working end tails should both be exiting the bend on the same side.

  • @unclefranj8460
    @unclefranj8460 Před rokem

    Well done - - and useful!

  • @danstaaar
    @danstaaar Před 2 lety +3

    Yeees I would love to see knot videos with details on tieing and untieing and break strength in static and dynamic situations and all that stuff... And I bet you could actually use a lot of the data you already have collected!

  • @the.mr.beacher
    @the.mr.beacher Před 2 lety +1

    I'm elated he wants to know exactly how knotty we want him to be! 💯

  • @redpakiu
    @redpakiu Před 2 lety +1

    Your idea for the format of How Know to Break, sounds really good!
    However this video with a lot of results (if you ever have to do one again), is NOT bad!

  • @roncoderre
    @roncoderre Před 2 lety

    Thanks for doing the testing.
    I've been using the reever knot for years. Fairly easy to tie, easy to see that it has been tied correctly, holds really well and relatively easy to untie after it's been loaded. Glad to see that it ranks high.

    • @zb1b1z
      @zb1b1z Před 2 lety

      That an interresting knot for what do you use it for? If you use it to tie both end of the same looking rope does it still feel easy to see that it has been tied correctly.

    • @roncoderre
      @roncoderre Před 2 lety

      @@zb1b1z : It has a distinctive pattern on both sides. I use it when I need a really strong connector that can handle a heavy load and can be (relatively) easy to untie.

  • @Gladi80r
    @Gladi80r Před 2 lety

    That was quite professional and informative

  • @gonnfishy2987
    @gonnfishy2987 Před 2 lety

    So useful. Some great confirmation here: what the staple knots are to know, and why youll be more safe with them than the flashy ones.

  • @charlesechols6354
    @charlesechols6354 Před 2 lety

    Looking forward to the knot series.

  • @lancerudy9934
    @lancerudy9934 Před rokem

    Great video! Thanks

  • @drew5334
    @drew5334 Před 2 lety +2

    That reaction after Edelrid told you to ask the other guys XD

  • @mwechtal
    @mwechtal Před rokem

    Love the slow motion @ the end.

  • @Son_of_Docent
    @Son_of_Docent Před 2 lety

    Great job!!!!

  • @GetUrPhil
    @GetUrPhil Před 7 měsíci

    Wow, I'm glad I use the Dbl Fisherman and figure 8.

  • @sonodrome
    @sonodrome Před 2 lety +1

    1 knot specials sounds like a great idea!

  • @andrewgregory6680
    @andrewgregory6680 Před 2 lety

    Hey dude, love your videos and the friends you bring along!
    I think that the knots will break differently then you think on the drop tower. It would be cool to have side by side videos of both break methods simultaneously. However you set up future videos I’m sure we will all enjoy and appreciate them the same

  • @riverzdad5366
    @riverzdad5366 Před 2 lety

    Also, as usual your vids never disappoint! Rad bud with lots of nerd knowledge that I like to know about stuff
    Keep it up🤙🏽🤙🏽

  • @wouterbaaijen2645
    @wouterbaaijen2645 Před 2 lety

    Love the idea to to an in depth knot by knot how knot to knot, knot videos! bring em on!

  • @markp8295
    @markp8295 Před 2 lety +1

    Your future suggestion video idea sounds great.

  • @hunterwarren1595
    @hunterwarren1595 Před 2 lety

    Deep dive on knots would be sweet. Love it!

  • @joshuakatz3517
    @joshuakatz3517 Před 2 lety

    This is amazing info to have. I think I won't be tying certain knots anymore if can avoid

  • @janamadsen
    @janamadsen Před 2 lety

    Very interesting to see how the knots work under load, just watched a CZcams clip where they were using a Hunters bend (Riggers Bend) on a Double Meech Friction Hitch, would love to see how it stands up against a Double Fisherman Bend. Can't wait to see the Drop Tower in use.

  • @schwiftyoliver77
    @schwiftyoliver77 Před 2 lety

    Great videos Ryan! Been watching for a while. Cant wait until you guys get a super slo-mo camera!

  • @FlatOutFE
    @FlatOutFE Před 2 lety

    Awesome and thank you.

  • @Huzzunga
    @Huzzunga Před 2 měsíci

    Was fun to watch

  • @petar-boshnakov
    @petar-boshnakov Před 2 lety

    This vid really solves so many forum arguments! :D :D Big one!

  • @wpeterb
    @wpeterb Před 2 lety

    Your correct. Most climbers only have weekends to climb and can determine which knots they can concentrate on. Great video.

  • @budm9982
    @budm9982 Před 2 lety

    I've used many of these knots in rope rescue work. Many that you used were redundant, as in many are used for the same purpose so not all need to be used or learned.
    Very interesting testing. Quite entertaining and educational.
    I would like to see the slipping and breakage on high-speed cam.

    • @zb1b1z
      @zb1b1z Před 2 lety

      It's definitely interesting to see the slipping and at what load it start especially on wet and dusty rope.

  • @scubasteveallen
    @scubasteveallen Před 3 měsíci

    Wow you just showed me the right way to pronounce bowline and ive been a rope tech for 10 plus years 😅

  • @MephistoRolling
    @MephistoRolling Před rokem +1

    This is really great, I always use the double fisherman's and the figure 8 and they both ranked some of the best. Not sure why the others are even used.

  • @grumpyuncle.
    @grumpyuncle. Před rokem

    Exceptional content.