SETTING YOUR ELECTRIC CHOKE FOR BEST RESULTS
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- čas přidán 30. 01. 2016
- This video explains the steps in properly setting your electric choke on your carburetor for the best performance possible.
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Thanks for sharing, Yeah ! I Did that with ..My factory buillt, Ford 290 Camper special ! I just swapped a 600 cfm, vacuum secondary carb..would start, and idled, like a rock ! .Sounds Awesome ! (=
Thank you for pointers. Blessings
You're teaching running in this video before you show how to walk. You say that adjusting the choke can be overwhelming if you don't understand how a choke works, but you didn't show how the choke works. How about loosening the choke adjustment screws and turning the thing left and right to show how it controls the choke blade? How about talking about why there are 2 electrical wires and what those do, and how they change the choke blade position once the choke warms up? Once we understand that, then we can learn about the high idle screw and how that works. Only after we understand all of that does it make sense to talk about O2 levels and the fine points of adjustment.
What does the 2 choke wires do ? I thought one was 12 v power and the black wire was ground . Maybe thats why I am having so much trouble with this freaking 750 cfm eldebrock . Its a brand new carburetor and can't get it to idle worth a damn ,cold or hot .soon as I drop into drive , she dies . And when its cold , floods like hell ! Hate it !
Quick question. When using an 02 sensor with a heavy cam wont the 02 sensor usually read leaner then it is really running due to the intake "dilution" from overlap and such?
it didnt really say anything about the choke setup.
6:08 how are the miles so low on a carb vehicle
One fact I do know about engine builders who provide crate engines and dyno each build prior to shipment, they dyno to their sea level.
So if you buy an engine in Cali, those power numbers will be different once it arrives to a state like Florida or anywhere deep South correct?
I heard you should always dyno according to your seal level, for example a Cali engine will run one way at 12,000 feet above seal level vs Arkansas at 3,000 feet, or Alaska at 20,000 feet.
Sort of. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) developed a standard correction for all dyno operators regardless of location. There are more than one "standard days", but typically engine shops will use one of two. The most popular one is J607. It is referred to as STANDARD correction. It corrects to 60 degrees F, 29.92 in-Hg absolute pressure, and 0% humidity. The newer standard is J1349 which uses 77 degrees F, 29.23 in-Hg absolute pressure, and 0% humidity.
The way this works is the dyno measures observed torque at the current conditions. A software is then used to mathematically determine what the engine would produce at the standard conditions. The idea is to allow an engine to be tested anywhere in the world, under any conditions, and have a comparable number. However, in reality not everyone uses the same correction standard, some use J607 while others use J1349. J607 will always have larger power numbers, so most use that. Also, the accuracy of the weather measuring equipment at each location can vary which can affect corrected power significantly. The process for testing also needs to be consistent. For example, we only make runs when coolant temp is between 155-160 degrees. After one or two runs, we shut down and wait for cooling so our tests are repeatable.
And then you also have the guys that like to pump up their numbers so they fudge current conditions to make their engine run better, or simply change the correction factor.
Here is the main point. Each dyno facility is a little bit different, so a number on one dyno will more than likely not be exact on another dyno. But the dyno facility has the ability to make repeatable results. Therefore, one engine on the same dyno compared to another engine (or changes on the same engine) should be trustworthy.
It appears you are using a FAST control module to monitor the O2. Isn't the FAST system a fuel injection system and not a carb. Can you explain how to use the FAST controller on a carb?
Bob Lucero it is a Fast air fuel datalogger and can be purchased with a single or dual oxygen sensor. It works great to have an idea of what the number is as a starting point than you can still pull plugs to see what the engine is telling you. Always keep in mind its just a number. Of the plug looks rich than it is period! Ideally 13.2 to 14.5 to 1 at idle is good, sometimes even higher depending on camshaft overlap etc. Usually 12.5 to 12.8 even 13.0 wide open is a good starting point as well.
What is the blue and the white cords on the choke your twisting. I noticed I only have one ground
@1:07
Is there a way to make a Holley electric choke gradually lower rpm when warm instead of having tk tap the throttle and disengage the fast idle??? Seems like it would make more sense if it was automatic
The high speed idle cam has steps in it, which equates to different rpms. As the choke butterfly slowly opens, the cam moves with it.
In this video, the time between when he starts the engine and then blips the throttle to get to the lower regular idle, the choke butterfly would have moved to fully open. If he would have blipped it in half the time, the fast idle screw would have plopped in the half way portion of the cam.
So, not 1800 rpms or 1000 rpms, but more like 1400.
As the engine warms up, if you keep blipping the throttle, it'll slowly start dropping rpms, not 1800 straight to 1000.
In my heated garage, my electric choke takes about 3 mins to fully open tite with 12v applied.
@@jakefriesenjake OK I know exactly what you’re saying because that’s what I’ve done ever since I purchased my parlor. But my question is, is there a way for the gradual drop in RPMs to occur automatically? I know that on EFI vehicles or any modern vehicle, that happens but is there anyway to make a carburetor electric choke slowly drop the RPMs as it warms up or is it always necessary to tap the throttle? If I start my truck and do not tap the throttle at all, it will stay in the high rpm mode even if it is warmed up. Is there a way to avoid that?
@@BryMed86 probably not. I don't know why you would even want it to do that automatically, unless you were trying to save gas..... But if you were trying to save gas, you would be in your vehicle and starting to drive it even before the choke opened all the way.
You can get rid of the fast idle portion if you want, so you'll just have choke, if you have a 4150 style Holley carb, and then just crack open the secondary butterflies with the idle screw a bit (don't touch the primary idle screw because the transfer slot would be out of whack), to raise the idle during warm up just enough that the engine will run by itself on a cold day. Hopeing that that idle is still low enough for every day driving, if its a manual tranny. (An automatic might be pulling the car too much if you have a very low stall speed torque converter).
@@jakefriesenjake no main reason is bcuz it doesn’t make sense for a vehicle to stay revving at high idle once its warm enuf..when i walk away it should go down automatically
@@BryMed86 its just a really old school way to bump up the idle while using choke.
You could maybe connect the throttle shaft to a little throttle motor, kinda like the one used in new cars for cruise control. Probably need to run an Arduino little computer to control it. Would need to know how to program code for it to operate correctly under certain circumstances.
Or make a bracket, hook up a small electric motor with a pully cam on it. Wrap a cable and bearings around the throttle Lever and the cam. Hook it up to 12v switch.
1 - Start engine
2- toggle that new switch to on.
3-the little motor with offset cam bearing would start rotation at around 30 rpms.
4- as the electric choke starts to open , every time the eccentric pulls on the cable (attached to the throttle Lever), the engine would rev up a bit.
5- you can make bigger or smaller cams to attach to the new tiny motor.
6- you can adjust the rpm of the electic motor
7- as the choke now opens, if the fast idle cam is in a different spot from 5 seconds ago, the idle speed will go down a tad, untill the fast idle cam screw is completely out of the way, and engine is at full operating temp and slow idle.
8- you now get in the car and turn that new switch off.
9- you can even add multiple odd cam lobes to the electric motor and adjust the rpm of it with a potentiometer... This can imulate a very lumpy cam in your engine for a lopepy idle. It would kinda rev up your engine off idle. You can play around with it.
Would take alot of time to set all this up correctly.
Or just blip the throttle every min with your foot, your choice!
Cheers
Good vid ..... Build On
E
427 in a Fox, sweet....
🎉
at what point in the video did it show anything about setting the choke blade or pod?????????? this video sucked. hes speaking a language that only make sense to him self
What? where is the choke
Really wasnt helping
ever heard of a tripod?
Wow...a whole lot of nothing in this video except hearing him talk...terrible video