For anyone watching this the quick connects are built in to the T, you don’t need those tools he’s got, just pinch the little ears sticking out and they release
I've been smelling antifreeze for a week now around my 2006 suburban, I finally pinpoint the problem to this heater hose connector. Thanks for the info!!
Thanks for the vid, this hose went on me yesterday, why I was in rush hour traffic...heading to a dealer to look at a car. Smoking, leaking the whole nine. But at least now I know what the hose is called. Thanks again!
Yep, this was a PITA. Facing the firewall from the front of the vehicle, the left side connector had broken right at the rubber hose. I wanted to replace both anyway and I found that removing the right side first made it easier. The right side came off somewhat easy but the left one I had to basically nibble off with a pair of small wire cutting and needle nose pliers. For some reason I didn't have anywhere near the space your vehicle had to maneuver my fingers. I get both connectors on and now the right one is dripping at the smaller aluminum line serving the rear. I think it may be due to it not being straight. I'm going to remove the right side again see if I can straighten the smaller line with a small section of slightly larger pipe. Story of my mechanical life...fix one problem and create another.
Thank You for this video. Helped me a Ton today as I had to replace our hvac connector today. We have a 2008 suburban that is lifted so it was quite the chore. I recommend taking the hood off to give you some more head space if others are having issues. It's just two bolts on each side and it pops right off. Again thanks for the awesome videos.
I don't think I would of had a problem with the hood if our suburban wasn't lifted but once I'm up there it was pain :) I'm curious why they changed the design of the hood? Again thanks for the video!
Great video. My additional problem is on the used truck I bought the previous owner cut the heater hoses off completely. What else I need is a video or diagram showing me how to replace the heater hoses. I've got a 2000 Chevy Silverado. Thanks!
Well I found it at Napa can you BELIVE they tried or sell me a used, open , dirty plastic set .. I had to tell them really I want a new set. At the end I still could not remove the inner white fitting so I had to break it off. All is well I did all hoses Good for another 100 k and the wife is happy
Ksam Procar Unfortunately these lines will only come as a complete set. I would stick with OEM ac delco lines. The part numbers tend to vary from 2000-2006 depending on what particular heating and cooling setup your truck has. It would be best to take your vin number to your local chevy/gmc dealer and they can get the correct lines for you. If not they can at least get you the correct part number so that you can find cheaper ones online.
Ksam Procar you are very welcome! Please let me know if I can help you out in the future with any car repair issues or if you would like to see a certain repair.
Thank you so much for your help. Another question in my mind in reply to your answer that heaters not affect cooling : How the car heating system works in the GM trucks ? I think due to the cooling water is circulating all the times via the heaters and the small radiators that it makes the area around them very hot affecting the AC evaporator cooling making it not cool efficiently or lose cool very vast making the compressor works more often than if there are no heat surrounding the evaporator. Is that correct and why not? Thank you.
Ksam Procar Well if you look at the hvac housings (the giant boxes under the dash) you will notice that the evaporator core is near the heater core. However like in all hvac boxes they are both separated in the boxes into different areas. Also the boxes are made of plastic and plastic doesn't transfer heat very well at all. So even if you left the heater core connected it wouldn't affect the a/c system. I know these trucks and I know the A/C systems work extremely well in most weather. In the past week it was 105,106,106,104 in those days and the ac worked fine. During the summer here the average temps are 95-99 and again the a/c works just fine. If you are having cooling problems make sure that your freon charge is correct. If it is correct then maybe the temps in your area are 105+ consistently and I will say that if you sit at idle a bunch in the heat it will have some affect on the A/C systems ability to cool. A/C systems are nice to have but they can only be so efficient in really hot weather. Another area to check is your trucks fan clutch. I upgraded mine to a heavy duty 4 seasons unit and it works wonderfully! I hope I have answered your question.
I couldn't get the d@3n thing off either; the quick disconnect tabs had aged so bad they wouldn't let go. Ripped them off, carefully, with pliers. Thanks for the vid.
Just break the back connector off with a screw driver where the clip holds it in. . It'll save you about 30 minutes of bullshit. The other 2 connections weren't too bad, but still struggled a little bit and didnt have to break the brackets. I did not use the quick disconnect tools.
Lol I was having hell trying to remove it, then i read your comment...and you are right! The damn part is going to be replaced anyways. So why not break it off! 🤣🤣🤣
Stupid question. I removed one of the washer to fit on the left side. Now it finally snapped. But it has some play, as far as it can rotate a full circle and pulling back and forward
Question. Is it true that one of those disconnects has a smaller orafice and acts as a restrictor? My disconnects sprung a leak last summer so I broke them both off and stuck the heater hose on there with clamps, burped the system and all was good. Now that fall/winter has come, the heat is not as good and it seems to take more time to reach operating temp temperature. Curious what your thoughts were on that. Great Video. 5 Stars.
One of the them is slightly shorter than the other. No restrictions. You have done what I also do. The older trucks didn’t have these dumb connectors. I don’t like them either so I snap them off and connect the hose with a clamp. I put this video up for those who don’t want to snap them off and want to keep the connectors. You may have a thermostat problem. It could be stuck open. Also if you are running a colder than normal thermostat you will have heat problems.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks for the reply. 👍 A new thermostat fixed my issue and also flushed the heater core with the garden hose for good measure.. Now the heater works so well I literally can't keep my hand infront of the vent for more than a few seconds.
The seals are located within the new plastic couplers. You may need to transfer the small white plastic clips to the new piece to firmly hold the new connectors on the pipe
Hi thanks for the informative video I have some issue right now but my hose broke off the plastic should I replace the whole part or just hose and connector thx again
Great video. Maybe you can help me with another problem. I have a 2002 suburban LS, 5.3, 'Z' in the vin, flex fuel. I am looking to replace the intake manifold but am having a real hard time locating a new manifold. From the video I watched, your truck appears to have the same manifold. Do you have a part number or know someplace i can purchase one? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Those style of disconnects will not work for the rear part of the fittings. They don't go far enough inside, you need the one that clamps all the around. dorman 800-450.
I think I damaged the heater core pipe when taking off old connector with screw driver put new connector on but now it's leaking from where that pipe goes into connector. Any help on fixing this or videos ? On replacing this part. I think this line runs from that connector up from all the way under to the rear. For auxiliary heater.
You replaced the black Tee with a white Tee? They have different size ports inside of them, and perhaps should be replaced with the correct one to avoid heat distribution issues.
Hi, Maybe you can help me out, I have a 2002 suburban 5.3 and at the water pump there are 2 smaller hoses that come off it and has like a "Y" connector .I have a leak right there, what part would I need to buy? is it the complete hose assembly or just that fitting? and if you could name that part for me would be appreciated . thanks Craig
Craig Smith Hi Craig! Yes that is one of the heater hoses. The part number for that is 18221L This is an AC Delco part number and is definitely a brand I recommend using on any Chevy product! Hope this helps.
Not sure I am understanding your question exactly? If your connector has broken like mine has then yes you can use the same connector as I am using. Is this what you’re asking?
Michael H In the case of my truck the connector broke while driving. By the time I got home to park it some coolant already had come out. Bleeding these trucks is very easy as they “burp” themselves. Start with the cold truck and fill the coolant up to the cold mark on the reservoir. Leave the cap off and start the truck with the heater set to max hot (if you have rear controls set those to max hot also) and turn the fan speed to about half. Just let the truck idle for about 10-15 mins or so and top off the coolant level as needed. You should start to feel some heat coming from the vents after awhile. Close the cap and let the truck idle for another 5 mins then go on a test drive to get the truck up to normal temperature. When you get back shut the truck off and let it cool down (about 2-3 hours) then com me back and top off the coolant if needed.
i changed out the quick disconnect on the left, whoever was working on it befor i got to it bent the aluminum hose coming out of the heater core. and it was flared out almost like they were hitting it. i got it straightened out the best i could. i went ahead and changed out the t connector. in doing this i ended up breaking the other t fitting ( brown one) my questions are: first off, the aluminum hose coming out of the fire wall that connects to the heater core which is the one that was all bent and out of round, well i got the quick disconnect piece stuck on it in the wrong position, i needs to be spun about a quarter turn to properly meet up the square holes on the female end of the t fitting. what do you suggest i use to spin that without damageing the aluminum line even more. my other question is how do you remove the quick disconnect on the other line? the one with the brown t fitting. i watched a few videos and it seems i have to buy a quick disconnect tool to disconnect it. wow the name is mis leading.
Anthony Falasco I can't be sure exactly how damaged the existing aluminum pipe is but normally these quick connections can turn around the pipes by hand. However in your case since one of the pipes is damaged it may be hard to do that. I can only suggest trying to use a set of channel locks to try and spin it around to the correct location that you need it to be in. Do this at your own risk however and be careful. As far as removing the other quick disconnect you would need to use the quick disconnect tools that I mentioned in the beginning of the video in order to get that one off as well. If you find you can't spin that connector around to the proper location, then I suggest just reverting back to the previous style (pre '00 trucks) and just remove both quick disconnects and just use two normal cooling hoses of the correct length to get from the water pump to the heater core pipes and use regular old hose clamps and viola you're done! This is the way most people switching over to because it is easy and there will be no more disconnects to go bad.
That is where I am with it. I just wasn't sure if using a normal hose clamp would be ok. Ya whoever attempted this job before me mashed up the the aluminum pipe pretty bad, I can. Only assume they tried to remove the quick connect with a set of channel locks cause it was pretty flattened
That is as close to round as I can get it without breaking the aluminum _lh3.googleusercontent.com/Msb3G0y44MOk4476qKob11bkLCQVxG27aNH3zxXTL_B5bVCrVitzSn8WERKnxYsDfU5PXfNhMQ_
Anthony Falasco yup the wonders of working behind people who didn't know what they were doing. Yes, normal hoses and clamps will work just fine. So long as you can get the hose onto the damaged pipe and get a good clamp on it, it will work just fine. Honestly I don't know why chevy went to this style when the "old ways" worked perfectly fine? Smh
Replaced them once with the dorman. One month later the rear aid connector is leaking again. When you install the new part, do you just push it on? Do you take the inner piece out first?
Hey curious does it matter where the two hoses connect at water pump back to heater core, out of the two hoses which hose goes where? Left hose on heater core connects to which fitting on water pump, the one closest to radiator or the one closer to firewall??? Thx for video...
If I recall the right side of the heater core connection (as you look at it from the front of the car) will go to the port on the water pump that is closest to the front of the truck. The left side goes on the port closest to the rear of the truck. The front water pump port will take the molded “Y” looking hose that also connects to the surge(coolant reservoir) tank.
thank u for the quick reply,. yep that's it, i forgot that i'd marked them before removing plus it was dark i couldn't see the marks i made,.. you are correct my friend, thx for the knowledge,..
I have the same problem I went to a local parts store and they gave me part number 800-403 I tried it and it fits lose is 800 413 the right one did you experience any leaking? Thanks
I replaced this got dang thing twice on my 02 Tahoe with a doorman part and still got a very small leak about the size of a quarter on my drive way. Is there any way to make my own fitting?
How do you know if it's just the connector? They want over 800.00 to replace my heater core. Another guy said you can go through the glove box and do it.
You can use the older style heater hoses. They simply ran to and from the heater core without those dumb plastic connectors. Not sure why GM decided to use those dumb things tbh. If you can get those hoses (basically any heater hose cut to length will work) and some hose clamps, you’re golden.
REAL SAVINGS VERY sorry I took so long to respond. Those lines are very expensive as I have only seen them available directly from the dealership. Would be best to find them at a local salvage yard. 89024927
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks alot been looking for that part for a month,finally called the chevy dealer today he quoted me a price of $269 he said it comes in a whole assembly, and its a dealer only part it runs from the front to the back.
I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 v6 4.3 when I got the truck the heater core was bypassed. So now I'm trying to fix. Which side is the inlet and outlet?
jahluisjah Hi I can’t recall which side is the inlet and outlet right now. However I can take a look at a customers car tomorrow and let you know which side is which and where to place the hoses. Sorry for the delay!
Just take a box knife with a new blade and score it repeatedly and break it with a flathead the whole thing is coming off anyway pretty much and already deteriorated all you need is just a Breaking Point to pry the rest off.Snips also help,because you only explained it but never showed us how you actually did it that is what makes it so difficult as far as trying to get it off.
Can I bypass the heater hoses? If so how? Cuase I never use the heater plus I'm only asking because of the T connector. Is it the same as all others just cut and bypass,
You just showed a completed job!!!!!!! You did Not show the steps of what you did. It would be great if you show the steps to complete as you would have the only up to date ( newer vehicle) video So close to my project.......
PL Richards I'm sorry I assumed that by explaining the job in its entirety would be enough to get the job done. In future videos I will definitely take this information into account and try to be as thorough as possible! Thanks for taking the time to leave me this suggestion it really helps me out! I still hope this video was somewhat helpful for you. Have a wonderful day sir!
I thought this fix would be a PITA so I did a bypass loop to get me through summer. Now it's time to fix and I see this video showing how easy it would have been 🤦🏼 oh well 😄
It’s not bad. Still can be a pain to get the connectors off, that’s why I just snapped them off lol. I still like the previous setup they used. It was just simple hose clamps and regular hoses. None of this plastic connector crap.
Maybe this I why I smell coolant only on the passenger side of the engine. I don’t smell anything inside only the outside . New water pump new thermostat I have a 04 Escalade esv
Hello, Please help me in other issue in my Yukon 2004 4.8L rear wheel drive truck which is a strange thing for me where it is draining drops of transmission fluid about half of a litter or more if i leave it more days after removing the battery leaving it in park for about 10 days specially in summer which is very hot about 50C , but it is not draining any transmission fluid drops when i connect the battery again and use it, I am sure that it is not draining transmission fluid while driving or when it is parked for small periods less than 7 or 10 days. Also i think that the fluid was burned and i did not know when the last time it was changed but i suctioned out about two litters each three months adding new fluid instead of the suctioned two litters. Do you recommend suctioning it completely then adding new fluid without removing the filter? Do you recommend just a fluid change draining the fluid while changing the filter without complete flushing of all fluid? Do you recommend flushing the fluid completely after doing a suction for all the fluid without removing the filter then later after three months i do a complete flush of all fluid and changing the filter? Thank you in advance for you help.
Ksam Procar you first need to find the source of the leak. After that then you can go about exchanging fluid. It shouldn't be hard to find. Clean off the tea shop as best you can then see where it leaks from.
You need to remove the entire dash to do that job. Unfortunately I do not have a video showing that. I did have to take my dash off to replace the evaporator but I did not film it. Sorry. It will probably take about 8-10 hours to do this job for a novice.
Doug Woods First off let me say that these tools are designed to be inserted fully and completely so that they can push the tabs holding the connection up out of the way so double check that this is what is happening. The lip of the tool should come close (in some cases sit completely flat with the black hose you are sticking it into. Which connection are you trying to get loose? As mentioned in the video if you are trying to get the rearmost (firewall heater core pipe) connection loose with the tool you mind find this very difficult to do. This is why I noted that I simply took a completely different approach to it and broke it in specific locations to facilitate easier removal. If you are talking about the connection that is off to the side of the part that runs to the water pump this piece will come off with a little maneuvering. Be patient with it. Try wiggling it around.
Helping Hand Auto Repair what I noticed and what finally did it for me in the long run was a little backwards pressure like I pushed on the old T valve and it popped right off but it it took some I couldn't get my fat fingers in there basically but pushed back on it a little bit maybe less than an eighth of an inch grab the two white connectors that are on there from the factory and pulled forward and slid right off your video was very informative though I will tell you that
Doug Woods Good! I'm glad it was helpful to you! This is what I am aiming for. If you haven't already done so please feel free to subscribe as I do make videos frequently and can even cater videos to meet your needs (specific car work, projects, etc.) I also have a free giveaway coming up once I get to 100 subscribers! Giving away a free OBD2 scanner! Thanks for watching and have a good day!
Dustin Moore both plastic Tees are replaced by using the same method. If you are talking about the metal pipes coming out of the inside of the car those are attached to the heater core and have to replaced by removing the heater core from behind the glovebox area.
Dustin Moore are you saying you replaced both T’s but you’re still having a leak at the small metal tube? Was that where it was leaking from before you replaced them?
I changed the heater core on my 04 but wondering if I put the heater hoses on backwards does that matter? Since I changed it I over heat randomly and I'm not losing any antifreeze anywhere but the temps in Iowa are -27 any help would be great
The hoses are two different sizes. I suppose you could cross them up, at the water pump but not the quick disconnects. If you used the quick disconnects.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks I got that I'm going to need connector that doesn't have auxiliary heater and I will just bypass or disconnect rear heater via fuse.
You could just do what everyone else does including myself. Ditch the plastic connectors altogether and run the rubber hose to the brass nipples and use screw clamps.
Dumbest f***ing connections. It's like some crappy ford and gm engineers were like, "you know these worm clamps only cost like 30 cents to make and will last 100 years, we should replace them with crappy brittle plastic connections that cost 20 times as much and are guaranteed to break within 10 years! I mean do we really need vehicles lasting more than a few years anyway?"
There is no room to work ..the plastic release barely goes on ..and literally no way to pressure the release forward to unconnect the plastic keeper ..gotta tell ya ..very poor engineering by GM here ..very poor ..as getting the bigger connector off is the main issue ..
Jason Bittinger In the case of my car, yes. My quick connector on the hose broke as well so I had to get a new one. If your hose is fine then don’t replace it.
The hose blew off mine so I’m unsure . I need to replace heater hose connector and the quick connect to the hose and the hose itself ? (The hose on the left is what broke )
Jason Bittinger Honestly it’s hard for me to guess what needs to be replaced without seeing the car in person. Google the quick connector (that attaches to the firewall) and then google the hose. Based on those two pictures you should be able to figure out what you need to replace.
Derek Dawkins No. I have explained that in the video. I show you what needs to happen with the tool. It is very tight in there for you to even see what I am doing.
Do yourself a favor and do away with these quick release fittings altogether. There is no benefit to having them on your vehicle, they will only wear out later. Install standard T's and or clamp hoses directly without quick release fittings.
The full size suv will have rear HVAC units. There are ac lines and heater lines that run to the rear of the trucks. The metal lines are obviously more “rugged” than running a rubber coolant hose all the way to the back under the truck. That could easily get ripped or torn leaving the truck stranded when all the coolant leaks out.
The full size suv will have rear HVAC units. There are ac lines and heater lines that run to the rear of the trucks. The metal lines are obviously more “rugged” than running a rubber coolant hose all the way to the back under the truck. That could easily get ripped or torn leaving the truck stranded when all the coolant leaks out.
You are using the wrong quick connect on the left side should be black. The white one should be on the right. Reason why it matters is because the T's are different lengths for slack. So they don't snap. Look at the white lines on the hoses. They won't line up in the hanger. Vause you installed the wrong quick connect
Bondo Part thAt was given to me from the part store. Fit perfectly. Has given me ZERO issues. Black one is 113mm white one is 111mm. 2mm is negligible. THEY WILL BOTH WORK FOR EITHER SIDE.
terrible video... you didn't show anything here on how to change the factory fittings... these things are extremely difficult as the rear heater lines don't have any room to move them out of the connectors... you showed nothing here on how you did it...
hey, thanks... its a tough job period.. and yes I broke the retaining pieces off.. and I cut the connections going to the rear heater lines as there is NO room to remove them from the connectors.. it was definitely easier that way.. used a air sawsall to do it.. anyway you look at it ?? stupid design.. and I still think you could have shown you actually doing it ??? I'm a mechanic and its still a pain in the ass...... the last one I did was not this difficult ?? and I didn't want to remove the accumulator.... that would make it easy.....
Guy Loehr Definitely not the easiest thing to do but breaking things makes me happy! Lol I was struggling to fit the tool in the back then I pretty much said oh well time to break it off. Worked perfectly! Thanks for watching the video. I do have many other videos uploaded! Do check them out if you would like.
Wow, you made me sit through the whole video and you never did anything except talk about what to do. You never actually did anything. Very disappointing
I didn’t make you do anything. I also stated in the very beginning of the video that I was going to walk you through the steps. I caught myself because I said “show” first. Then I changed that to “walk through.”
I didn’t make you do anything. I also stated in the very beginning of the video that I was going to walk you through the steps. I caught myself because I said “show” first. Then I changed that to “walk through.”
For anyone watching this the quick connects are built in to the T, you don’t need those tools he’s got, just pinch the little ears sticking out and they release
Video from 6 years ago and still relevant. Thank you.
I've been smelling antifreeze for a week now around my 2006 suburban, I finally pinpoint the problem to this heater hose connector. Thanks for the info!!
Mjdoug 44 Glad this was helpful!
Thanks for the vid, this hose went on me yesterday, why I was in rush hour traffic...heading to a dealer to look at a car. Smoking, leaking the whole nine. But at least now I know what the hose is called. Thanks again!
Yep, this was a PITA. Facing the firewall from the front of the vehicle, the left side connector had broken right at the rubber hose. I wanted to replace both anyway and I found that removing the right side first made it easier. The right side came off somewhat easy but the left one I had to basically nibble off with a pair of small wire cutting and needle nose pliers. For some reason I didn't have anywhere near the space your vehicle had to maneuver my fingers. I get both connectors on and now the right one is dripping at the smaller aluminum line serving the rear. I think it may be due to it not being straight. I'm going to remove the right side again see if I can straighten the smaller line with a small section of slightly larger pipe. Story of my mechanical life...fix one problem and create another.
Thanks gentlemen for CZcams demo. Didn't turn out to be a CF. Things actually went smoother than anticipated.
I'm
Thank You for this video. Helped me a Ton today as I had to replace our hvac connector today. We have a 2008 suburban that is lifted so it was quite the chore. I recommend taking the hood off to give you some more head space if others are having issues. It's just two bolts on each side and it pops right off. Again thanks for the awesome videos.
Andrew Nowlan thanks! Glad you found this useful! Yes the 2007+ hoods don’t open very far. This is a late 2000-2006 model. The hood opens plenty.
I don't think I would of had a problem with the hood if our suburban wasn't lifted but once I'm up there it was pain :) I'm curious why they changed the design of the hood? Again thanks for the video!
Andrew Nowlan 2008 is an entire different body. I’m working on a 2001 which is the previous generation. I’m sure being lifted was a chore!
My right heater core hoses is not getting hot like the left hoses
Heater core could be clogged
Just seen your vid very informative thought it was gonna be a big job or had to take it to the shop saved me a lot of stress and money Thank you
Great video. My additional problem is on the used truck I bought the previous owner cut the heater hoses off completely. What else I need is a video or diagram showing me how to replace the heater hoses. I've got a 2000 Chevy Silverado. Thanks!
Well I found it at Napa can you BELIVE they tried or sell me a used, open , dirty plastic set .. I had to tell them really I want a new set. At the end I still could not remove the inner white fitting so I had to break it off. All is well I did all hoses Good for another 100 k and the wife is happy
I'm sorry for the three dislikes guys! Please let me know what went wrong as I am glad to help you guys out!
Ksam Procar Unfortunately these lines will only come as a complete set. I would stick with OEM ac delco lines. The part numbers tend to vary from 2000-2006 depending on what particular heating and cooling setup your truck has. It would be best to take your vin number to your local chevy/gmc dealer and they can get the correct lines for you. If not they can at least get you the correct part number so that you can find cheaper ones online.
Thank you so much for your help.
Ksam Procar you are very welcome! Please let me know if I can help you out in the future with any car repair issues or if you would like to see a certain repair.
Thank you so much for your help.
Another question in my mind in reply to your answer that heaters not affect cooling :
How the car heating system works in the GM trucks ?
I think due to the cooling water is circulating all the times via the heaters and the small radiators that it makes the area around them very hot affecting the AC evaporator cooling making it not cool efficiently or lose cool very vast making the compressor works more often than if there are no heat surrounding the evaporator.
Is that correct and why not?
Thank you.
Ksam Procar Well if you look at the hvac housings (the giant boxes under the dash) you will notice that the evaporator core is near the heater core. However like in all hvac boxes they are both separated in the boxes into different areas. Also the boxes are made of plastic and plastic doesn't transfer heat very well at all. So even if you left the heater core connected it wouldn't affect the a/c system.
I know these trucks and I know the A/C systems work extremely well in most weather. In the past week it was 105,106,106,104 in those days and the ac worked fine. During the summer here the average temps are 95-99 and again the a/c works just fine.
If you are having cooling problems make sure that your freon charge is correct. If it is correct then maybe the temps in your area are 105+ consistently and I will say that if you sit at idle a bunch in the heat it will have some affect on the A/C systems ability to cool. A/C systems are nice to have but they can only be so efficient in really hot weather. Another area to check is your trucks fan clutch. I upgraded mine to a heavy duty 4 seasons unit and it works wonderfully! I hope I have answered your question.
I know I'm late to the video but mine just started leaking and I'm thinking about replacing both the 90° and the 180° connector
The quick connectors are anything but quick. Mine seem to be welded on or melted on and you can't get to the clip going into the heater core
Jeff Enger unfortunately this happens. Worse comes to worse just break them off and install new ones.
Just so you all know he's using the wrong part. Should be the black one on the left. It's a different size lengthwise. Other than that great video
Outstanding free help! GOD bless you Sir🙏👍👍👍👍👍
I couldn't get the d@3n thing off either; the quick disconnect tabs had aged so bad they wouldn't let go. Ripped them off, carefully, with pliers. Thanks for the vid.
Drunken Master yea mine were also very difficult to get off but with some patience they submitted lol. Glad this video helped!
I used a tiny screwdriver and hammer to break off the plastic tabs then pulled it off with a lot of force
Just break the back connector off with a screw driver where the clip holds it in. . It'll save you about 30 minutes of bullshit. The other 2 connections weren't too bad, but still struggled a little bit and didnt have to break the brackets. I did not use the quick disconnect tools.
Lol I was having hell trying to remove it, then i read your comment...and you are right! The damn part is going to be replaced anyways. So why not break it off! 🤣🤣🤣
Do you need to add any lube to the O-rings in the connector
I personally did not. This video is of my truck and I still have that same truck with the same connector on there since.
Stupid question. I removed one of the washer to fit on the left side. Now it finally snapped. But it has some play, as far as it can rotate a full circle and pulling back and forward
TheAlarmGuySATX sorry what washer?
Question. Is it true that one of those disconnects has a smaller orafice and acts as a restrictor?
My disconnects sprung a leak last summer so I broke them both off and stuck the heater hose on there with clamps, burped the system and all was good. Now that fall/winter has come, the heat is not as good and it seems to take more time to reach operating temp temperature. Curious what your thoughts were on that.
Great Video. 5 Stars.
One of the them is slightly shorter than the other. No restrictions. You have done what I also do. The older trucks didn’t have these dumb connectors. I don’t like them either so I snap them off and connect the hose with a clamp.
I put this video up for those who don’t want to snap them off and want to keep the connectors.
You may have a thermostat problem. It could be stuck open. Also if you are running a colder than normal thermostat you will have heat problems.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Thanks for the reply. 👍
A new thermostat fixed my issue and also flushed the heater core with the garden hose for good measure.. Now the heater works so well I literally can't keep my hand infront of the vent for more than a few seconds.
Are there suppose to be orings on the pipes im replacing mine and when I start it up it pours coolant out
The seals are located within the new plastic couplers. You may need to transfer the small white plastic clips to the new piece to firmly hold the new connectors on the pipe
Hello, great how to.....Question, what are the two black hoses next to them? I have a coolant leak at the other end of that hose?
Hi thanks for the informative video I have some issue right now but my hose broke off the plastic should I replace the whole part or just hose and connector thx again
Replace the whole part. Don’t risk it,
Great video. Maybe you can help me with another problem. I have a 2002 suburban LS, 5.3, 'Z' in the vin, flex fuel. I am looking to replace the intake manifold but am having a real hard time locating a new manifold. From the video I watched, your truck appears to have the same manifold. Do you have a part number or know someplace i can purchase one? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would think you could locate one pretty easily? Try rock auto.com
Great video helped me a lot
joseph herrera thanks! I am glad you found it useful!
Those style of disconnects will not work for the rear part of the fittings. They don't go far enough inside, you need the one that clamps all the around. dorman 800-450.
just changed mine , the rear fitting still leaks , it did not snap inn and I cant get it to push in further. frustrated . ):
Same for me, it's leaking
I think I damaged the heater core pipe when taking off old connector with screw driver put new connector on but now it's leaking from where that pipe goes into connector. Any help on fixing this or videos ? On replacing this part. I think this line runs from that connector up from all the way under to the rear. For auxiliary heater.
I did same thing. You ever figure out a fix?
@@ktaylor6776 just did away with clips attached hoses old-school way. Just hose and a clamp
@@ktaylor6776 I don't use the rear heater so just bypassed that connection
I wound up getting a 5/8 x 1/2 x 5/8 tee off Amazon and connected with rubber hoses.
Thank you!
You replaced the black Tee with a white Tee? They have different size ports inside of them, and perhaps should be replaced with the correct one to avoid heat distribution issues.
GTO Guy Not sure. It has been on there ever since without one issue. 3 years ago
Hi, Maybe you can help me out, I have a 2002 suburban 5.3 and at the water pump there are 2 smaller hoses that come off it and has like a "Y" connector .I have a leak right there, what part would I need to buy? is it the complete hose assembly or just that fitting? and if you could name that part for me would be appreciated . thanks Craig
Craig Smith Hi Craig! Yes that is one of the heater hoses. The part number for that is 18221L This is an AC Delco part number and is definitely a brand I recommend using on any Chevy product! Hope this helps.
Hi I have a 2002 Yukon and same exact problem my concern is the back hose connection and removing it..will the part your using work for my 2002?
Not sure I am understanding your question exactly? If your connector has broken like mine has then yes you can use the same connector as I am using. Is this what you’re asking?
Do you have to bleed the system or release any air pockets when you do this? If so, how do you do that?
Michael H In the case of my truck the connector broke while driving. By the time I got home to park it some coolant already had come out. Bleeding these trucks is very easy as they “burp” themselves. Start with the cold truck and fill the coolant up to the cold mark on the reservoir. Leave the cap off and start the truck with the heater set to max hot (if you have rear controls set those to max hot also) and turn the fan speed to about half. Just let the truck idle for about 10-15 mins or so and top off the coolant level as needed. You should start to feel some heat coming from the vents after awhile. Close the cap and let the truck idle for another 5 mins then go on a test drive to get the truck up to normal temperature. When you get back shut the truck off and let it cool down (about 2-3 hours) then com me back and top off the coolant if needed.
are both connectors the same or different sizes? because on the dorman box it said rear so im guessing one is rear one is front or left and right?
Brandon Rag Yes If I recall the heater core inlet and outlet are the same size.
I have a leak on the bottom one will it cause my truck to over heat?
GM Chevy Yes, if enough coolant has leaked out.
Thanks
My man 🫡
i changed out the quick disconnect on the left, whoever was working on it befor i got to it bent the aluminum hose coming out of the heater core. and it was flared out almost like they were hitting it. i got it straightened out the best i could. i went ahead and changed out the t connector. in doing this i ended up breaking the other t fitting ( brown one) my questions are: first off, the aluminum hose coming out of the fire wall that connects to the heater core which is the one that was all bent and out of round, well i got the quick disconnect piece stuck on it in the wrong position, i needs to be spun about a quarter turn to properly meet up the square holes on the female end of the t fitting. what do you suggest i use to spin that without damageing the aluminum line even more. my other question is how do you remove the quick disconnect on the other line? the one with the brown t fitting. i watched a few videos and it seems i have to buy a quick disconnect tool to disconnect it. wow the name is mis leading.
Anthony Falasco I can't be sure exactly how damaged the existing aluminum pipe is but normally these quick connections can turn around the pipes by hand. However in your case since one of the pipes is damaged it may be hard to do that. I can only suggest trying to use a set of channel locks to try and spin it around to the correct location that you need it to be in. Do this at your own risk however and be careful.
As far as removing the other quick disconnect you would need to use the quick disconnect tools that I mentioned in the beginning of the video in order to get that one off as well.
If you find you can't spin that connector around to the proper location, then I suggest just reverting back to the previous style (pre '00 trucks) and just remove both quick disconnects and just use two normal cooling hoses of the correct length to get from the water pump to the heater core pipes and use regular old hose clamps and viola you're done! This is the way most people switching over to because it is easy and there will be no more disconnects to go bad.
That is where I am with it. I just wasn't sure if using a normal hose clamp would be ok.
Ya whoever attempted this job before me mashed up the the aluminum pipe pretty bad, I can. Only assume they tried to remove the quick connect with a set of channel locks cause it was pretty flattened
That is as close to round as I can get it without breaking the aluminum
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Anthony Falasco yup the wonders of working behind people who didn't know what they were doing. Yes, normal hoses and clamps will work just fine. So long as you can get the hose onto the damaged pipe and get a good clamp on it, it will work just fine. Honestly I don't know why chevy went to this style when the "old ways" worked perfectly fine? Smh
The quick connector is tight as tits on there
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Man I'm attempting this and I'm not mechanically inclined. On a 2006 gmc denali truck
get after it!
Is this apart of the AC system?
Replaced them once with the dorman. One month later the rear aid connector is leaking again.
When you install the new part, do you just push it on? Do you take the inner piece out first?
BushLeagueProd Just push it on.
It will make a click
thanks
When u bypass heater core how do I do it when the other two silver hoses are going into it
No easy way really without hacking up those hoses and putting hose clamps on them.
Did you drain the radiator first? Or just let the coolant spill out when you disconnected the fitting?
I just opened up the fitting. Granted the coolant already leaked all out when it broke. I would drain the coolant.
That aluminum hose connected to the heater core thing what is that for ? I accidentally squeezed mine with pliers
The two lines to the left held on by a bolt?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair the ones connnected on the t braket
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair the ones going on the heater hose connected
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair connector
I am assuming you’re talking about the heater core itself? They may be able to be bent back. If not then you need to replace the heater core.
Hey curious does it matter where the two hoses connect at water pump back to heater core, out of the two hoses which hose goes where? Left hose on heater core connects to which fitting on water pump, the one closest to radiator or the one closer to firewall??? Thx for video...
If I recall the right side of the heater core connection (as you look at it from the front of the car) will go to the port on the water pump that is closest to the front of the truck. The left side goes on the port closest to the rear of the truck.
The front water pump port will take the molded “Y” looking hose that also connects to the surge(coolant reservoir) tank.
thank u for the quick reply,. yep that's it, i forgot that i'd marked them before removing plus it was dark i couldn't see the marks i made,.. you are correct my friend, thx for the knowledge,..
BlkiceMike you’re very welcome!
thanks help me a lot
vagner maganha of course! Glad this video helped!
I have the same problem I went to a local parts store and they gave me part number 800-403 I tried it and it fits lose is 800 413 the right one did you experience any leaking? Thanks
It’s dayo Millennial no leaking. Been on there since this video was uploaded
Is there a way to know if the new quick connector is stuck all the way in? Is there a snapping sound? How can you tell it's in properly?
Mary Lamb yes it will normally make a snapping noise.
I replaced this got dang thing twice on my 02 Tahoe with a doorman part and still got a very small leak about the size of a quarter on my drive way. Is there any way to make my own fitting?
Yea. You can remove the connectors and run a rubber tee and some couplings.
Just a minute ago you said just run hoses to the heater core. Now you’re saying buy the connector from the dealership? Which is it?
Great video.
Jose Hernandez thanks sir!
How do you know if it's just the connector? They want over 800.00 to replace my heater core. Another guy said you can go through the glove box and do it.
If it is leaking outside in the engine bay, you can try replacing the plastic connectors you see here.
Hi. It's not.just antifreeze on inside of window blowing on it
Heater core is blown then.
Can I replace that Hardline with a flexible rubber coolant line
You can use the older style heater hoses. They simply ran to and from the heater core without those dumb plastic connectors. Not sure why GM decided to use those dumb things tbh.
If you can get those hoses (basically any heater hose cut to length will work) and some hose clamps, you’re golden.
Part numbers for all the quick disconnects. On both lines
jaj252 There are two. I give you the part number for one in the video.
I don’t know the other one off the top of my head. Just call the parts store and they well help you with that no problem.
What is the metal line called that connect to the tee, mine is broken.
REAL SAVINGS VERY sorry I took so long to respond. Those lines are very expensive as I have only seen them available directly from the dealership. Would be best to find them at a local salvage yard. 89024927
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks alot been looking for that part for a month,finally called the chevy dealer today he quoted me a price of $269 he said it comes in a whole assembly, and its a dealer only part it runs from the front to the back.
I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 v6 4.3 when I got the truck the heater core was bypassed. So now I'm trying to fix. Which side is the inlet and outlet?
jahluisjah Hi I can’t recall which side is the inlet and outlet right now. However I can take a look at a customers car tomorrow and let you know which side is which and where to place the hoses. Sorry for the delay!
Helping Hand Auto Repair
No worries thanks for the reply. Looking forward to it. Getting cold in inland empire I need my heater lol
Just take a box knife with a new blade and score it repeatedly and break it with a flathead the whole thing is coming off anyway pretty much and already deteriorated all you need is just a Breaking Point to pry the rest off.Snips also help,because you only explained it but never showed us how you actually did it that is what makes it so difficult as far as trying to get it off.
Can I bypass the heater hoses? If so how? Cuase I never use the heater plus I'm only asking because of the T connector. Is it the same as all others just cut and bypass,
domino2129 Yes, just loop the outlet and inlet on the side of the water pump together.
Awesome, thank you. Much appreciated bud,
What is the one underneath it called? With the gold top? Mine is leaking from there..
Heater core
You just showed a completed job!!!!!!! You did Not show the steps of what you did. It would be great if you show the steps to complete as you would have the only up to date ( newer vehicle) video So close to my project.......
PL Richards I'm sorry I assumed that by explaining the job in its entirety would be enough to get the job done. In future videos I will definitely take this information into account and try to be as thorough as possible! Thanks for taking the time to leave me this suggestion it really helps me out! I still hope this video was somewhat helpful for you. Have a wonderful day sir!
Helping Hand Auto Repair great reply dude
What’s the exact part you bought for this?
Hey man ! I have a question. What’s the name of the aluminum pipes that connect to the heater core and run towards the back . ?
Not sure the exact name. Auxiliary Heater hoses possibly
They go to rear heater core, obviously on vehicles with rear HVAC
He didn’t ask where they go. He asked what they are called.
To bypass my heater core I would just connect those two black hoses together correct?
Yep. You can loop them right at the water pump if you want. You can see where both those hoses go to in the side of the pump.
I thought this fix would be a PITA so I did a bypass loop to get me through summer. Now it's time to fix and I see this video showing how easy it would have been 🤦🏼 oh well 😄
It’s not bad. Still can be a pain to get the connectors off, that’s why I just snapped them off lol. I still like the previous setup they used. It was just simple hose clamps and regular hoses. None of this plastic connector crap.
Maybe this I why I smell coolant only on the passenger side of the engine. I don’t smell anything inside only the outside . New water pump new thermostat I have a 04 Escalade esv
Maybe the waterpump is leaking slowly
Or a hose.
I did this today and I'm leaking coolant... Right where the white tabs are on the heater core what can I do??
It may not be pressed on all the way
Helping Hand Auto Repair it was a broken o ring 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️
Helping Hand Auto Repair Also I got everything fixed party is on but now my gauge won't go to temp I have the cap off though would that be a reason??
Chalkyeye what temperature is it at? Also you need to turn the heater to max hot and the fan speed to slowest.
Helping Hand Auto Repair I put the cash on it went to 210 but when I had the cap off it was at the next big line up from 160
Hello,
Please help me in other issue in my Yukon 2004 4.8L rear wheel drive truck which is a strange thing for me where it is draining drops of transmission fluid about half of a litter or more if i leave it more days after removing the battery leaving it in park for about 10 days specially in summer which is very hot about 50C , but it is not draining any transmission fluid drops when i connect the battery again and use it,
I am sure that it is not draining transmission fluid while driving or when it is parked for small periods less than 7 or 10 days.
Also i think that the fluid was burned and i did not know when the last time it was changed but i suctioned out about two litters each three months adding new fluid instead of the suctioned two litters.
Do you recommend suctioning it completely then adding new fluid without removing the filter?
Do you recommend just a fluid change draining the fluid while changing the filter without complete flushing of all fluid?
Do you recommend flushing the fluid completely after doing a suction for all the fluid without removing the filter then later after three months i do a complete flush of all fluid and changing the filter?
Thank you in advance for you help.
Ksam Procar you first need to find the source of the leak. After that then you can go about exchanging fluid. It shouldn't be hard to find. Clean off the tea shop as best you can then see where it leaks from.
I will try to make a video once it leaks again .
Thank you.
How long is the heater core hose suppose to be
Not sure. You would have to measure it.
I need a 2006 yukon Denali xl to replace heater core????
You need to remove the entire dash to do that job. Unfortunately I do not have a video showing that. I did have to take my dash off to replace the evaporator but I did not film it. Sorry. It will probably take about 8-10 hours to do this job for a novice.
I had to fdo that on my 07 Yukon I put all the new o rings in but still drips a little bit
mattyice260 mitchell maybe the actual pipes are damaged a little or maybe the new part is defective
I need the 2 hoses.. do you know the part # for those
I don’t off hand. Any parts store should be able to get the heater hoses.
I'm having trouble with the disconnect tool. It doesn't pop right off and I can't get it to move or wiggle loose am I doing something wrong?
Doug Woods First off let me say that these tools are designed to be inserted fully and completely so that they can push the tabs holding the connection up out of the way so double check that this is what is happening. The lip of the tool should come close (in some cases sit completely flat with the black hose you are sticking it into.
Which connection are you trying to get loose? As mentioned in the video if you are trying to get the rearmost (firewall heater core pipe) connection loose with the tool you mind find this very difficult to do. This is why I noted that I simply took a completely different approach to it and broke it in specific locations to facilitate easier removal.
If you are talking about the connection that is off to the side of the part that runs to the water pump this piece will come off with a little maneuvering. Be patient with it. Try wiggling it around.
Helping Hand Auto Repair what I noticed and what finally did it for me in the long run was a little backwards pressure like I pushed on the old T valve and it popped right off but it it took some I couldn't get my fat fingers in there basically but pushed back on it a little bit maybe less than an eighth of an inch grab the two white connectors that are on there from the factory and pulled forward and slid right off your video was very informative though I will tell you that
Doug Woods Good! I'm glad it was helpful to you! This is what I am aiming for. If you haven't already done so please feel free to subscribe as I do make videos frequently and can even cater videos to meet your needs (specific car work, projects, etc.) I also have a free giveaway coming up once I get to 100 subscribers! Giving away a free OBD2 scanner! Thanks for watching and have a good day!
Mine is leaking at metal line on the black one just wondering how to fix replaced both tees
Dustin Moore both plastic Tees are replaced by using the same method. If you are talking about the metal pipes coming out of the inside of the car those are attached to the heater core and have to replaced by removing the heater core from behind the glovebox area.
Not the heater core line the other smaller one
Dustin Moore are you saying you replaced both T’s but you’re still having a leak at the small metal tube? Was that where it was leaking from before you replaced them?
Dustin Moore the line that runs off to the side of the engine bay? Down towards the rear HVC unit?
As I stated above, both tees are removed the same way. Just buy the new connector and replace that Tee
Will u lose any coolant/refrigerant when doing this
Major PvP No, unless you tip the two hoses down too much.
Do you need to drain coolant or anything before removal
Miles Watkins no
What size are the two rubber heater hoses and. Clips
corey tadle I have no idea. This was awhile ago. If I had to guess most likely 5/8” or 3/4” hose.
You didn't put nothing to see How you fix it. The talking doesn't do it
Tony Padilla Maybe watch another video bro? Sorry. It’s very detailed.
What are the parts numbers
I changed the heater core on my 04 but wondering if I put the heater hoses on backwards does that matter? Since I changed it I over heat randomly and I'm not losing any antifreeze anywhere but the temps in Iowa are -27 any help would be great
The hoses are two different sizes. I suppose you could cross them up, at the water pump but not the quick disconnects. If you used the quick disconnects.
I'm going to just bypass rear heater core don't really use the rear heat n e way
This connector connects both the main heater core and the rear heater core.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair thanks I got that I'm going to need connector that doesn't have auxiliary heater and I will just bypass or disconnect rear heater via fuse.
You could just do what everyone else does including myself. Ditch the plastic connectors altogether and run the rubber hose to the brass nipples and use screw clamps.
Por qué se calienta después de aser todo el prosedimiento
What?
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair
Why does it overheat after the process?
You probably didn’t bleed the coolant. Or you have a leak somewhere or you have a bad thermostat
Sir wished you had video taped doing it not after the fact.
Boo Bie It’s rather hard to get a camera in the small space you work in. It’s exactly as I explained. Super easy.
Dumbest f***ing connections. It's like some crappy ford and gm engineers were like, "you know these worm clamps only cost like 30 cents to make and will last 100 years, we should replace them with crappy brittle plastic connections that cost 20 times as much and are guaranteed to break within 10 years! I mean do we really need vehicles lasting more than a few years anyway?"
They are pretty stupid.
There is no room to work ..the plastic release barely goes on ..and literally no way to pressure the release forward to unconnect the plastic keeper ..gotta tell ya ..very poor engineering by GM here ..very poor ..as getting the bigger connector off is the main issue ..
Couldn’t agree with you more.
I need them for both hoses. Are they the same size for both connectors?
No. One is slightly longer than the other
did you had to empty the ac system?
Guillermo Farfan No, you do not have to touch the ac system at all.
So the hose needs replaced as well ?
Jason Bittinger In the case of my car, yes. My quick connector on the hose broke as well so I had to get a new one. If your hose is fine then don’t replace it.
The hose blew off mine so I’m unsure . I need to replace heater hose connector and the quick connect to the hose and the hose itself ? (The hose on the left is what broke )
Jason Bittinger Honestly it’s hard for me to guess what needs to be replaced without seeing the car in person. Google the quick connector (that attaches to the firewall) and then google the hose. Based on those two pictures you should be able to figure out what you need to replace.
The quick connect broke off in the hose. I bought a new hose and connector. I’m having difficulty with removing the the other 2 quick connectors
Hold up you didn't show taking connector off
Derek Dawkins No. I have explained that in the video. I show you what needs to happen with the tool. It is very tight in there for you to even see what I am doing.
Do yourself a favor and do away with these quick release fittings altogether. There is no benefit to having them on your vehicle, they will only wear out later. Install standard T's and or clamp hoses directly without quick release fittings.
Well you didn't even show how to do it bro!! Lol.
Those two black rubber lines are your heater core lines. Those metal lines go to your AC system.
Incorrect. Those hard metal lines come off of the rubber lines are heater lines for the rear HVAC unit on these trucks.
Incorrect. Those hard metal lines come off of the rubber lines are heater lines for the rear HVAC unit on these trucks.
@@HelpingHandAutoRepair Ah. 10-4. Haven't seen a "rear hvac" unit like that before, nor a metal coolant line on a GM vehicle.
The full size suv will have rear HVAC units. There are ac lines and heater lines that run to the rear of the trucks. The metal lines are obviously more “rugged” than running a rubber coolant hose all the way to the back under the truck. That could easily get ripped or torn leaving the truck stranded when all the coolant leaks out.
The full size suv will have rear HVAC units. There are ac lines and heater lines that run to the rear of the trucks. The metal lines are obviously more “rugged” than running a rubber coolant hose all the way to the back under the truck. That could easily get ripped or torn leaving the truck stranded when all the coolant leaks out.
You are using the wrong quick connect on the left side should be black. The white one should be on the right. Reason why it matters is because the T's are different lengths for slack. So they don't snap. Look at the white lines on the hoses. They won't line up in the hanger. Vause you installed the wrong quick connect
Bondo Part thAt was given to me from the part store. Fit perfectly. Has given me ZERO issues. Black one is 113mm white one is 111mm. 2mm is negligible. THEY WILL BOTH WORK FOR EITHER SIDE.
Mine leaking from small metal line
No
This video was not useful
What a waste of time!…
Are you in a library why you talking so low we can’t hear you
Johnnypyro562 Lol, idk just turn up the volume.
terrible video... you didn't show anything here on how to change the factory fittings... these things are extremely difficult as the rear heater lines don't have any room to move them out of the connectors... you showed nothing here on how you did it...
Guy Loehr You didn’t listen to the video at all then. LISTEN to the video again and I tell you exactly how I took the connector off the back.
hey, thanks... its a tough job period.. and yes I broke the retaining pieces off.. and I cut the connections going to the rear heater lines as there is NO room to remove them from the connectors.. it was definitely easier that way.. used a air sawsall to do it.. anyway you look at it ?? stupid design.. and I still think you could have shown you actually doing it ??? I'm a mechanic and its still a pain in the ass...... the last one I did was not this difficult ?? and I didn't want to remove the accumulator.... that would make it easy.....
Guy Loehr Definitely not the easiest thing to do but breaking things makes me happy! Lol I was struggling to fit the tool in the back then I pretty much said oh well time to break it off. Worked perfectly! Thanks for watching the video. I do have many other videos uploaded! Do check them out if you would like.
Wow, you made me sit through the whole video and you never did anything except talk about what to do. You never actually did anything. Very disappointing
I didn’t make you do anything. I also stated in the very beginning of the video that I was going to walk you through the steps. I caught myself because I said “show” first. Then I changed that to “walk through.”
I didn’t make you do anything. I also stated in the very beginning of the video that I was going to walk you through the steps. I caught myself because I said “show” first. Then I changed that to “walk through.”
There's never videos about the part that connects to the thermostat.
What do you need to know?