I’m bidding on this on eBay. Your video is so clear and helpful. I hope to be able to test some 6L6GC And 12AX7 tubes for fender type guitar amps. Again thank you.
Hi Jeff, I did not know about your "Heathkit manual/book" I have just purchased a copy off of Amazon For £12 and some change. I do have some Heathkit test equipment that i have fixed and use ; the TC-2, RF-1U, C-3 I. I also have waiting patiently to be fixed a HFW1 and a OS-2. I also have a IM-28 that i purchased buy mistake but i still fixed it and use it!
at 5;38 when you check for open elements,,you say the meter should drop when you gp through the positions . I noticed in the 2ed and 3ed positions the needle did not drop,,,,,does this mean the tube you were checking had open elements ?
Yes. Multiple lines indicate that the tube has multiple sections or elements (e.g. dual-diode, dual-triode) and each line tests an element. The parentheses indicate that during a shorts test the levers shown in parentheses should be moved simultaneously,
Hello Jeff, thanks for this informative video. I just had one quick question. At 5:01, when you were checking for shorts and you throw the "G" switch, it looks like the short light flickers for a split second. Was this just some sort of artifact, or did the tube indeed have a short? I am new to this and wasn't sure what a flicker like that would indicate. Thanks!!
Well done on the video Jeff! Do you have a URL for the site that provides info for testing older tubes that are not listed on the TC2 chart? The tubes I need to test are in a Garod V Neutrodyne receiver. In the article I was reading it refers to the tubes in it as: VT 1, VT2, VT4 and VT5 -UV -201 -A or C -301 -A vacuum tubes; VT3 -UV -200 or C -300 vacuum tube Most other tubes I need to test are most likely going to be on the chart.
I wish I knew the value and wattage resistor they used for the line adjust compensation and a good place to attach it into the circuit physically. My line adjust is always a bit high, even with control fully turned down counter clockwise.
The original line adjust control was a 200 Ohm 25 Watt wirewound potentiometer. Some people use a small transformer wired as a bucking transformer to reduce the line voltage. You can find examples on the internet.
Great video Jeff ..I too have had this for some years, and didn’t know how to use it previously! My question is : on the roll chart and on the online chart you mention , the tubes that I need to test 12AU7, or ECC82 and 12AX7 or ECC83 are not shown, variants like 5814 and 5751 are . I was under the impression that these are slightly different from each other. Is it permissible to use the variant testing specs to get a somewhat accurate reading? Thanks!
Yes, you can generally use the same settings for equivalent tubes. There is a Heathkit manual that you can find on the internet called "Supplement Test Data Sheet for use with Heathkit TC-1, TC-2, and TC-2P Tube Checkers." It has a section at the end with "American Equivalents to European Tubes". It lists, for example, ECC82 as equivalant to 12AU7 and ECC83 as 12AX7 and you can use the same tester settings,
@@jefftranter just tried it the correct way , first issue was the set position knob, it was all the way to the left and still the needle was to the R of center position… never dead center. The test was on anECC82 , 12AU7 tube , levers AB up CDE down when I reversed these positions ABC good , DE short bulb illuminated …tried 6 different tubes same results , so I’m guessing it’s an issue of this old unit …from what I’m experiencing do you reckon is fixable in a relatively easy way or perhaps not ? Thanks!
@@deepvillage There is not a lot of circuitry in the tester, it is mostly switching. You can find a copy of the manual on the internet. If you have a digital multimeter you can check the resistors in the tester to see if any are bad, and check the switch connections for continuity and you may be able to track down the problem.
@@jefftranter thanks again Jeff I’d really like to get this unit functional I just don’t need a high end tester it’s in good shape other than the musty smell of 50 or so years in storage
Hi Jeff, wonding if you can help out. I have a GE 6267 Tube and have been searching on the right settings for the Heathkit TC-2. I have not been able to find the settings. Can you assist? Thank you
Thanks for the video it was very informative. I just acquired one of these testers, however the needle on the meter is bent. Is it possible to get a new needle or meter for these, or can it be rebuilt?
You might be able to remove the cover and bend the meter needle. If not, you could try to find a replacement meter but it will be hard to find one that is the same.
@@jefftranter Thanks for the quick reply I straightened it as best I could without damaging it further. The tester seems to work, so I will just keep an eye open for a new gauge. The scale is so large on the gauge that my bent needle does not seem to matter that much. (the cover was off the tester when it arrived at my home and the loose cord flopping around inside the case damaged the needle) Thanks again for the quick reply.
Great Video Jeff ! Do you know where I can buy a replacement test switch (the slide switch) for my TC-2 ? Mine is acting odd, feels rough as well. Thank you !
You want a DPDT momentary slide switch. It looks like a Switchcraft 46206MRX is equivalent. It is available from Digikey and others, see www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/switchcraft-inc/46206MRX/SC1818-ND/1288919 You should confirm and check the dimensions.
Thanks for your video. Helped me ( a rookie ) a lot. Do you happen to know the test settings for a JAN-CTL-5998? If not, can you tell me where to find info such as this? Thank you.
New tubes I own that are verified seem to read the same as any other tube, would changing out resistors and/or even the transformer make mine more accurate?
Thanks for the great videos Jeff. I got my hands on a very similar tester and i'm not sure if this is working correctly or not. When I do the filament test, I put the selector to 0.63 volts and move the bold letter switch(es). The bulb does not light for a 6L6 or a 12AT7, but it does light up for a 12AX7. If I move the selector to 1.4 volts, the very next setting, then the bulb lights up for the other 2 tubes. Is this an internal problem or something else wrong? or can I get away with that at the 1.4 volt setting. The unit came with a broken bulb and I replaced it with the exact same type of bulb. It does light up so I'm assuming the bulb itself is fine. Thanks!
It sounds like you are not using the right filament voltages. It should be 6.3V for tubes like a 6L6 and 12.6V for 12AT7 and 12AX7 tubes. I'm assuming this is a tester like the Heathkit TC-2. If you don't have an operation manual for your tester, you should be able to find one on the Internet.
Jeff Tranter yes I'm using 6.3 when doing the other tests, but for the filament continuity when you turn the voltage down to the minimum, .63 in my case, that's where the problem is. Thanks.
Mr Granted ,where did you did info online.for this tube tester ,mine don't show spot of AS 5 tube numbers I just need to be able to test my AA5 tubes because that's all I work on ,to learn with a lot of G.E. 1960 era radio so.all I need is the numbers of the roll chart mine don't have ,anyone.that can help a novice I would be very great ful .
A Google search for Heathkit TC-2 should find several copies of a partial manual and tube data. One source is tubularelectronics.com/Heath_Manual_Collection/Heath_Manuals_T-X/TC-2/
Mr.Tranter I have just bought this same tube tester ,I want to ask for your help tell I find a original booklet for mine ,I replaced the .1 mfd cap.and on the left side when inside down there is a power resistor ,mine is a sand resistor and not readable,one other seller says it's 100 ohm 25 watts ,his is Mark marked 2500 on the top could you please help me with at value of that bigger resistor,I would be fearful to you or anyone who no this info.
I have had this tester for years and until now never knew how to properly test a tube with it thanks to your vid ,,,,,great vids on this channel
I’m bidding on this on eBay. Your video is so clear and helpful. I hope to be able to test some 6L6GC And 12AX7 tubes for fender type guitar amps. Again thank you.
Was able to get a copy recently of the assembly and operation manual for TC-2 which wasn't on my Heathkit on CD manual.
Thanks for a great video, I have also had one since 1995 and never used it - now I will!
This is a well produced and informative video. Well done!
Hi Jeff, I did not know about your "Heathkit manual/book" I have just purchased a copy off of Amazon For £12 and some change. I do have some Heathkit test equipment that i have fixed and use ; the TC-2, RF-1U, C-3 I. I also have waiting patiently to be fixed a HFW1 and a OS-2. I also have a IM-28 that i purchased buy mistake but i still fixed it and use it!
Good explanation, congratulations!
at 5;38 when you check for open elements,,you say the meter
should drop when you gp through the positions . I noticed in the 2ed and 3ed positions the needle did not drop,,,,,does this mean the tube you were checking had open elements ?
My Father repaired TV's 1950 -1960 I was instructed by My Father on how to check tubes dismantled and rebuilt
I notice that there are typical 2 lines of instruction for each tube on the roll chart (with parentheses). Any reason for that??
John
Yes. Multiple lines indicate that the tube has multiple sections or elements (e.g. dual-diode, dual-triode) and each line tests an element. The parentheses indicate that during a shorts test the levers shown in parentheses should be moved simultaneously,
Hello Jeff, thanks for this informative video. I just had one quick question. At 5:01, when you were checking for shorts and you throw the "G" switch, it looks like the short light flickers for a split second. Was this just some sort of artifact, or did the tube indeed have a short? I am new to this and wasn't sure what a flicker like that would indicate. Thanks!!
I think this was just a temporary glitch. The lamp should stay lit for a real short.
Same as my Eico, and Triplett
Well done on the video Jeff! Do you have a URL for the site that provides info for testing older tubes that are not listed on the TC2 chart? The tubes I need to test are in a Garod V Neutrodyne receiver. In the article I was reading it refers to the tubes in it as:
VT 1, VT2, VT4 and VT5 -UV -201 -A or C -301 -A
vacuum tubes;
VT3 -UV -200 or C -300 vacuum tube
Most other tubes I need to test are most likely going to be on the chart.
I believe it came from here: www.rsp-italy.it/Electronics/Kits/_contents/Heathkit/Kits/Heathkit%20TC-2%20tubes%20list.pdf
I wish I knew the value and wattage resistor they used for the line adjust compensation and a good place to attach it into the circuit physically. My line adjust is always a bit high, even with control fully turned down counter clockwise.
The original line adjust control was a 200 Ohm 25 Watt wirewound potentiometer. Some people use a small transformer wired as a bucking transformer to reduce the line voltage. You can find examples on the internet.
Great video Jeff ..I too have had this for some years, and didn’t know how to use it previously!
My question is : on the roll chart and on the online chart you mention , the tubes that I need to test 12AU7, or ECC82 and 12AX7 or ECC83 are not shown, variants like 5814 and 5751 are . I was under the impression that these are slightly different from each other. Is it permissible to use the variant testing specs to get a somewhat accurate reading?
Thanks!
Yes, you can generally use the same settings for equivalent tubes. There is a Heathkit manual that you can find on the internet called "Supplement Test Data Sheet for use with Heathkit TC-1, TC-2, and TC-2P Tube Checkers." It has a section at the end with "American Equivalents to European Tubes". It lists, for example, ECC82 as equivalant to 12AU7 and ECC83 as 12AX7 and you can use the same tester settings,
@@jefftranter thanks Jeff , I’ll try that out
@@jefftranter just tried it the correct way , first issue was the set position knob, it was all the way to the left and still the needle was to the R of center position… never dead center.
The test was on anECC82 , 12AU7 tube , levers AB up CDE down when I reversed these positions ABC good ,
DE short bulb illuminated …tried 6 different tubes same results , so I’m guessing it’s an issue of this old unit …from what I’m experiencing do you reckon is fixable in a relatively easy way or perhaps not ?
Thanks!
@@deepvillage There is not a lot of circuitry in the tester, it is mostly switching. You can find a copy of the manual on the internet. If you have a digital multimeter you can check the resistors in the tester to see if any are bad, and check the switch connections for continuity and you may be able to track down the problem.
@@jefftranter thanks again Jeff I’d really like to get this unit functional I just don’t need a high end tester it’s in good shape other than the musty smell of 50 or so years in storage
Hi Jeff, wonding if you can help out. I have a GE 6267 Tube and have been searching on the right settings for the Heathkit TC-2. I have not been able to find the settings. Can you assist? Thank you
My "SUPPLEMENT TEST DATA SHEET" lists the 6267 with these settings:
Type 1, Fil. 6.3, Plate 20, Top AFHJ, Bottom CE (No open element test on F)
@@jefftranter HI Jeff, thank you so much for the quick response. This really helps!
Thanks for the video it was very informative. I just acquired one of these testers, however the needle on the meter is bent. Is it possible to get a new needle or meter for these, or can it be rebuilt?
You might be able to remove the cover and bend the meter needle. If not, you could try to find a replacement meter but it will be hard to find one that is the same.
@@jefftranter Thanks for the quick reply I straightened it as best I could without damaging it further. The tester seems to work, so I will just keep an eye open
for a new gauge. The scale is so large on the gauge that my bent needle does not seem to matter that much. (the cover was off the tester when it arrived at my home and the loose cord flopping around inside the case damaged the needle) Thanks again for the quick reply.
Great Video Jeff ! Do you know where I can buy a replacement test switch (the slide switch) for my TC-2 ? Mine is acting odd, feels rough as well. Thank you !
You want a DPDT momentary slide switch. It looks like a Switchcraft 46206MRX is equivalent. It is available from Digikey and others, see www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/switchcraft-inc/46206MRX/SC1818-ND/1288919 You should confirm and check the dimensions.
Thanks for your video. Helped me ( a rookie ) a lot. Do you happen to know the test settings for a JAN-CTL-5998? If not, can you tell me where to find info such as this? Thank you.
I believe the settings will be the same as for a 6AS7, which you should find on the roll chart.
New tubes I own that are verified seem to read the same as any other tube, would changing out resistors and/or even the transformer make mine more accurate?
Replacing any resistors that are out of value would be useful. The transformer is almost impossible to find, I wouldn't change it.
Thanks for the great videos Jeff. I got my hands on a very similar tester and i'm not sure if this is working correctly or not. When I do the filament test, I put the selector to 0.63 volts and move the bold letter switch(es). The bulb does not light for a 6L6 or a 12AT7, but it does light up for a 12AX7. If I move the selector to 1.4 volts, the very next setting, then the bulb lights up for the other 2 tubes. Is this an internal problem or something else wrong? or can I get away with that at the 1.4 volt setting. The unit came with a broken bulb and I replaced it with the exact same type of bulb. It does light up so I'm assuming the bulb itself is fine. Thanks!
It sounds like you are not using the right filament voltages. It should be 6.3V for tubes like a 6L6 and 12.6V for 12AT7 and 12AX7 tubes. I'm assuming this is a tester like the Heathkit TC-2. If you don't have an operation manual for your tester, you should be able to find one on the Internet.
Jeff Tranter yes I'm using 6.3 when doing the other tests, but for the filament continuity when you turn the voltage down to the minimum, .63 in my case, that's where the problem is. Thanks.
Or...the problem could be that the wire for the .63v broke off the lug... I soldered it back on and seems to be working now. Thanks! :)
excellent thankyou
Mr Granted ,where did you did info online.for this tube tester ,mine don't show spot of AS 5 tube numbers I just need to be able to test my AA5 tubes because that's all I work on ,to learn with a lot of G.E. 1960 era radio so.all I need is the numbers of the roll chart mine don't have ,anyone.that can help a novice I would be very great ful .
A Google search for Heathkit TC-2 should find several copies of a partial manual and tube data. One source is tubularelectronics.com/Heath_Manual_Collection/Heath_Manuals_T-X/TC-2/
Is there a chart for the 6414 tube and the 6H30 tube?
Neither of these are on the supplemental roll chart that I have.
@Jeff Tranter
Thank you for checking .
So hard to find test data for those tubes.
working on one....bad rectifier ..schematic wrong?
Mr.Tranter I have just bought this same tube tester ,I want to ask for your help tell I find a original booklet for mine ,I replaced the .1 mfd cap.and on the left side when inside down there is a power resistor ,mine is a sand resistor and not readable,one other seller says it's 100 ohm 25 watts ,his is Mark marked 2500 on the top could you please help me with at value of that bigger resistor,I would be fearful to you or anyone who no this info.
My schematic shows a 2500 Ohm 5 Watt resistor.