very concise and compete repair video. I will order the relay control board since that looks like the problem with the F9 error code. I replaced it approximately a year ago but it didn't last very long.
thanks to this video I feel confident in at least trying to repair our oven. I just need to get a multimeter but MAN the price ranges are huge $30 - $300.
We are glad that we could help! Let us know how the repair goes for you and what you find. Usually for the average DIYer, a multimeter in the lower end of that price range will work just fine for you. For example something like this would be a decent one: www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-600-Volt-Digital-Multi-Meter-Manual-Ranging-MM325/320822947
Hello! I am having the same issue. Upon removing the back and testing some elements. I came across a burnt wire at one of the relays. It is a red wire that connects first to a red plastic connector that clips into the relay control board, then has an orange wire that travels to the lower Bake heater. I am going to replace the relay board, but also need to replace the wire. Can I buy this short harness on its own, or do I need to find the correct red wire type and reconstruct the harness?
Glad to hear that this video helped you locate the problem. To fix the broken wire, you either have to replace the entire wiring harness or splice in a section of new wire with an equivalent wire gauge and temperature rating. LG doesn't sell any parts of the harness separately, they only sell the entire wiring harness.
Great video! I recently replaced the broil element on my LG LRE30453ST Oven (Thanks PartsDr!). Yesterday, I was baking and the food remained uncooked, after the display showed 330 degrees for 45 min. I had set it to 350. After removing the cover, checking the bake & broil elements, this is what I found: The bake element turns on (230V) for about 7-8 seconds and turns off. The broil element turns red hot whenever the bake element is off, and after about 2-3 mins, it repeats this cycle. The temperature is probably correct, since the temp sensor is near the top beside the broil element. Since the elements appear to work fine, I though of the control board, but I am getting no errors on the display at all. Any thoughts?
@@daniellineberry7184 If you set the temp to 350, it should average 350 when the elements cycle on and off. So it might heat up to 370, then drop to 330, and repeat that process over and over to average the set temperature of 350. If the oven isn't ever reaching the set temperature of 350, then it would most likely be an issue with a failing control board. One of the relays on the control board could be starting to fail as we show in this video. Over time it will get worse and eventually they can stop heating alltogether. Let us know what you find as the solution to the problem.
Multiple model numbers like this usually means that you are getting the number from the owners manual instead of the tag on the range as we show at 7:03. With the range unplugged, start by checking the power supply to the range by using a multimeter and also look for any burned wires at the terminal block where the power cord attaches to the range.
My elements tested fine, but the temp sensor got no reading at all. That should be my issue, right? Confusing because the oven display shows a temp on it... 🤷🏻♂️
@@PartsDr I think you're right, I tested a few more times after I commented and I was getting a reading right around where you said it should be. It's a pretty old multimeter I inherited from my dad so it's probably not the best.
I’m testing the same machine right now that you have with a brand new multimeter the top element mine is reading 13.1 in the bottom element is reading 16.1 is that good? Yes or no thank you.
I found a lose wire on element two on the bottom. Fix the connection oven seems to be working perfectly. Thanks to your video. You made my life easier appreciate you.
![[LG Ranges] Oven Heating Issues](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ktb2CjMaivA/mqdefault.jpg)
Did this help you fix your broken oven? Let us know!
I will let you know. thanks for the repair video.
@@gregmitchell4317 Sounds good!
very concise and compete repair video. I will order the relay control board since that looks like the problem with the F9 error code. I replaced it approximately a year ago but it didn't last very long.
thanks to this video I feel confident in at least trying to repair our oven. I just need to get a multimeter but MAN the price ranges are huge $30 - $300.
We are glad that we could help! Let us know how the repair goes for you and what you find. Usually for the average DIYer, a multimeter in the lower end of that price range will work just fine for you. For example something like this would be a decent one: www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-600-Volt-Digital-Multi-Meter-Manual-Ranging-MM325/320822947
@@PartsDr thank you for that recommendation. Any parts I need I will for sure be ordering from you!
@@PartsDr I just purchased this multimeter based on your recommendation. Just placed an order for a new relay board. Thanks for the help!
@@gokuvichaikul Great! Let us know how it works out!
@@PartsDr Installed the new control board today and my oven is working again. Thanks!
Hello! I am having the same issue. Upon removing the back and testing some elements. I came across a burnt wire at one of the relays. It is a red wire that connects first to a red plastic connector that clips into the relay control board, then has an orange wire that travels to the lower Bake heater. I am going to replace the relay board, but also need to replace the wire. Can I buy this short harness on its own, or do I need to find the correct red wire type and reconstruct the harness?
Glad to hear that this video helped you locate the problem. To fix the broken wire, you either have to replace the entire wiring harness or splice in a section of new wire with an equivalent wire gauge and temperature rating. LG doesn't sell any parts of the harness separately, they only sell the entire wiring harness.
When testing the broil and bake elements, how many Ohms would be bad?
Usually when the elements fail, they will be an open circuit and they will not register any ohm value.
Great video! I recently replaced the broil element on my LG LRE30453ST Oven (Thanks PartsDr!). Yesterday, I was baking and the food remained uncooked, after the display showed 330 degrees for 45 min. I had set it to 350. After removing the cover, checking the bake & broil elements, this is what I found: The bake element turns on (230V) for about 7-8 seconds and turns off. The broil element turns red hot whenever the bake element is off, and after about 2-3 mins, it repeats this cycle. The temperature is probably correct, since the temp sensor is near the top beside the broil element. Since the elements appear to work fine, I though of the control board, but I am getting no errors on the display at all. Any thoughts?
Did the bake element pass the ohm test?
@@PartsDr Yes.
@@daniellineberry7184 If you set the temp to 350, it should average 350 when the elements cycle on and off. So it might heat up to 370, then drop to 330, and repeat that process over and over to average the set temperature of 350. If the oven isn't ever reaching the set temperature of 350, then it would most likely be an issue with a failing control board. One of the relays on the control board could be starting to fail as we show in this video. Over time it will get worse and eventually they can stop heating alltogether. Let us know what you find as the solution to the problem.
Do you leave the oven unplugged when you test using the multimeter?
Yes, the oven needs to be unplugged when testing with the multimeter. Let us know if this helps you fix your oven!
Awesome thank you
Glad we could help! Did you identify the issue with yours yet?
Question for you: LG LDE 4415 LDE 4413 LDER 4411 knob lights are on but nothing else works.
Multiple model numbers like this usually means that you are getting the number from the owners manual instead of the tag on the range as we show at 7:03. With the range unplugged, start by checking the power supply to the range by using a multimeter and also look for any burned wires at the terminal block where the power cord attaches to the range.
My elements tested fine, but the temp sensor got no reading at all. That should be my issue, right? Confusing because the oven display shows a temp on it... 🤷🏻♂️
What kind of temperature reading is the display showing? It sounds like you may not be testing the temperature sensor properly.
@@PartsDr I think you're right, I tested a few more times after I commented and I was getting a reading right around where you said it should be. It's a pretty old multimeter I inherited from my dad so it's probably not the best.
@@randomninjaLet us know what you find as the cause of the problem.
I’m testing the same machine right now that you have with a brand new multimeter the top element mine is reading 13.1 in the bottom element is reading 16.1 is that good? Yes or no thank you.
Those readings would indicate that both elements are good. Let us know what you find as the cause of your problem.
I found a lose wire on element two on the bottom. Fix the connection oven seems to be working perfectly. Thanks to your video. You made my life easier appreciate you.
@@kevinmcconville462 Awesome! Glad to hear it was a simple fix!