I just did this and my mild 350 started immediately. I always put my cars together and have to have help getting them running because all the other videos tell u to give it 8 or 12 degrees of advance. So glad i can do this myself now.
You know a few decades ago, before we hade CZcams we had chiltons or hays repair manuals. It was all we had. Those old manuals have a lot of basic knowledge that is very valuable for people starting to learn. I have several different ones for my 74 Camaro, and the 92 Chevy truck. The old ones have wiring diagrams too. Yeah distributor wrenches are great. Yeah even a good stock ignition will light you up. The full msd in the 74 Camaro, msd distributor , 6AL box and blaster 3 coil will give you good jolt. ⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
Yes sir, my dad set out to rebuild the transmission in our 57 Pontiac (Hy dramatic) he had a Motors manual, but it went only to 1955 models. So, he went out and bought a Glenns motor manual and it went to 1965 and covered the Hy dramatic transmission (this manual was complete and covered all phases of auto repair) I still have this manual and along with other manuals I have do not under any circumstances loan them out (I will never see them again). As a former Mac dealer, we had many distributor wrenches in our inventory but the best one I had was the wrench shown in the video. That was the KD Tools distributor wrench that covered both 9/16- and 1/2-inch wrench sizes for the bulk of distributors used back then. Yes, sir those ignition systems will light you up and it is also not a good idea to try to start an engine if any raw gasoline has been spilled on them as they will ignite the fumes and cause a bad hair day. Everything set right on an engine, and it will start just like it is supposed to. By taking the time to set everything up it is time efficient as opposed to spending more time to get an engine started.
I’m 70 years old and thank you for sharing your expertise! Ole street rodder from back in the day. Had renal cancer, chemotherapy etc. but still tinkering when able. Cost for me has gone way up to go real fast these days with all the technology. Still try to keep up with it though. Ronnie East, Tennessee
Its not easy to get top engine builders to give up what they have worked hard to learn over the years, so thank you very much. I also just watched your tappet clearance and adjustment video and highly... highly recommend it too.
I have rebuilt several engines in my life. 90% of them were stock and the rest had mild street mods. Recently, I took on a Chrysler 440 with a cam designed for a 2800 stall converter and max power between 4500 and 7000 rpm. It was the first time I ever had to preset the timing at 35 degrees to make the engine run. This video helped confirm that I did it right. Thank you.
This is how I learned many many years ago, with one exception. When you get the distributor on the right tooth, pop the rotor off and align the reluctor wheel with the pickup, then lock the distributor down. It will be within about 3 degrees of your desired timing so you can pay attention to other things when it first fires up instead of grabbing the timing light.
On point style ignition systems I would get the distributor set in and the engine set where I wanted it timed and then with power to the coil advance the distributor to the point where the ignition coil fires. One can also use the spark plug to fire as well.
Timely, outstanding tips. Tomorrow, I'm putting the distributor and carb back on my Pontiac 463 after I repainted the motor. I have done it before, but your procedures make it fool-proof. Your tip about the 2" estimate from the balancer mark for initial seting is great. Thanks, Leo
I got to fire a New 305 with new distributor first thing tomorrow, why the world did the customer want the original engine! Nice demo, always like your content, I need that engine in my Drag Car!!
Good Video 1). Fuel, set expansion rate 2). Phasing, Spark prior to arrival NOT departing" 3). Ahhhh, kinda "Rough Timing", enough to run then "Fine Tune Timing" 4). Killer shock, yeah good tip! I learned a lot Great post
That is the way that I was told back in the seventies (we did not have these fancy timing tapes, although people made their own) to set the mark about one and a half or two inches advanced and set your distributor to fire. I have put together stock engines and have set the timing to where the initial timing mark would be (around 10 to 12 degrees0 and upon getting the engine started and putting a light on it the timing would show around 25 or maybe a little more on the marks. However, I like this method much better.
Not a professional engine builder but I built my own mini stock engines, Ford 2300. I always set the distributor with the crank on the timing I wanted to run- 38°. It always fired right up and was within 2-3 degrees.
I really like your content I've been renting on cars for over 50 years and it took me at least 20 years to figure out what you just explained keep up the good work man like that very much. If we don't pass on our knowledge to the younger generation it's all going to be lost and I mean how many people out there know how to adjust to set up points or even know what a set of points is and condenser and and and and and good job man.
Nice video and I’ll apply this when I replace the Mallory Unilight with a MSD on my Cleveland. I was told the 80s wanted their distributer back so I have to give up the Mallory. God Bless
I am an old wrench, I mark the distributor case with a sharpy as well. Otherwise, perfect. New subscriber don't disappoint me😂 I will call you on it when I think your mistaken. Good luck
LOL I wouldn't expect anything different. But it was perfect because this was for first time distributor installation. Lol hey keep watching you might catch me slipping somewhere.
The only thing that I feel needs clarification is that when you are using the pickup within the distributer, you can not adjust phasing. (Unless I was taught wrong) Only the timing is changed by moving the cap position relative to the rotor button. However, a crank trigger, you have to phase the rotor to the cap in order to get fire down the correct wire and fire in the correct location across the cap terminal.
Oh ya that’s right, how I could of overlooked that and I knew that before! Thank you very much for replying, you helped me shake the cobwebs out of my 63 year old brain!
Ok ... Not a bad video but you can do better .... First off I am going to assume that it's fixed timing because you are setting to total not initial advance ... On a regular engine you should set the balancer to what you want in initial timing not total ... Then once the distributor is in place like you showed the trigger point on that distributor is just as the reluctor wheel arm passes the center bar on the pickup so you line that up and lock the distributor down ...your timing will then be within a degree or two of what you want .... In the case of hei distributor trigger point is point to point ....
I understand what you're saying but if you're setting the timing before top dead center that would be the compression stroke. It doesn't become the power stroke until top dead center.
Sweet, now ill never look like i was in a bombing lol. Thanks for the pro tips brian. I really appreciated your valve adjustment vid. Super easy no bs no confusion. Alot of morons tell you to go by feel. The bad news is if ive NEVER done it how the hell am i supposed to know how it feels when proper? Thanks again buddy, dont worry im going to comment alot. Just so u remember me lol. Take care
Man it hurts getting hit by just about any vehicle when it sparks not just msd. I got caught the other day on my 4.2L trailblazer. The good news is that the coil wasn’t the problem😂
good solid old school info... it's been a while since i've had to stab a distributor... that being said.. after tuning EFI for the last couple decades.. were kinds spoiled to setting timing with the keyboard these days..
Just curious how come you don't use on a street rig a vacuum advance. I sure wish you have showed how to set total advance with your timing light. Love your info and videos thank you.
When you set the timing on a model A you better be having it at 2° after top dead center if you're starting it with the crank it won't kick back on you that way.
Yeah I had bumped it when I was trying to explain things it was actually about 50° advance and by the way I've never set the timing on that kind of car
News of the channel enjoy all of your knowledge. I would like to know your honest opinion about protonix distributors. HP ignition. I have a 302 in a 93 f150. Play around on the street. 150 shot of nitrous
I know you're going to fine tune it but why so high in the initial timing? Would 10btdc not be better than 30 odd? I will be adapting your thought process as you said it doesn't fire at 0 degrees!🇦🇺
That's a great question I do it because I want the engine to stay running I don't want to be fighting the low timing while I'm trying to set things. Plus it doesn't hurt anything and like you said I'm going to fine tune it. If you to break in a flat tappet cam the last thing you want is for the engine to be cutting on and off all the time while you're trying to get things going
In addition this engine will never see below 25°so like I said in the video, you have to adapt it to what you're doing But I do this with every distributor driven engine I build. Because I want it to stay running while I get everything set. Try it next time you'll see it's really nice makes things a lot easier.
@@SalterRacingEngines yeah absolutely. Flat tappet break in could be a good vid. Making sure there is fuel in the bowls so it fires and not winding it over a million times wiping all the lube off the cam! Keep up the good work!
I use a magic marker and put a dot on the distributor housing where-#1 terminal is.then you just line up rotor with your dot. I shake too much to hold my finger still. lol.
If you are going to set the balancer for 34~35 degrees advance, shouldn't you align the rotor and cap with the rotor twisted to fully apply whatever centrifugal advance the distributor has to make this as accurate as possible?
Hey up mate seen a couple of your videos lately and like what youse are doing so have given the sub, watched this one as wondering if I've missed a trick over the years but turn's out must have been doing good all these years, working on bultaco dirt bikes as a young fella seems to have payed off. Thanks mr salter
Just so you know engines don't run at zero degrees of timing the reason you're setting it there is because once you hook up the vacuum advance and on computer control stuff wants the computer takes over generally speaking they will run between 5 and 12° of Base timing because that is what is referred to as base ignition timing but the moment you crack that throttle in the RPM starts to rise you start coming into what's called advanced timing and you will eventually reach total advance timing all engines gasoline powered will be between 28° and 40° of total advance timing and this is why when I tell people if you're installing a distributor for the first time set the distributor on number one where the total advance timing would be because the reason is once you install the distributor you now have to set it with a timing light and you have to use the procedures that go with that engine the last thing you want to do is trying to hook stuff up or fiddle with the carburetor or fiddle with anything while the engine won't stay running because the timing is too low and being at total advance timing is absolutely harmless and it will aid you and getting the job done quicker with less fuss and not fighting the engine. Hope that helps I'm going to do a second video and explain a lot more detail
@@SalterRacingEngines Yes I understand that... I'm really old and have been doing this my hole life. Love the content, keep up the great work and be safe.
So... I'm assuming the fàctory timing mark on the balancer or tab on the timing chain cover is approx 34-38 deg advanced. Reading spec's are 4 to 8 degrees depending on the engine. Previously assumed those 30+ degrees of timing were max advance at speed (vacuum + mechanical). Would like clarification
Hey great question man I will be sure to address that very soon I'm going to do a part two on that video there's a lot of stuff people asked and hopefully I can clear all that up But for now the white Mark in the video is top dead center and then the timing tape allows me to see where my distributor is firing so if the white Mark lines up with whatever number that is the actual ignition timing the engine is on at that moment
I have a long extension with a really big socked that looks like a slotted screw driver attachment. I tape it to the end of the long extension(just in case), to turn the oil pump shaft to line it up with distributor shaft.
And I be working on it but I love working on the old cars my brother in law gave me a 1985I rock before he passed away with sugar but it up in Delaware and it needs a lot of work and I be told by my doctor that I have cancer and l will not be able to see my kids grow up .
With a decked block and the intake manifold I am running I have to cut down my china rails to get the manifold down on the head ports. This makes my oil pump shaft too tall which jacks up my distributor. With out adding a spacer between the distributor and intake manifold what is the procedure to cut down the oil pump shaft and what would the optimum clearance be at the distributor pin and shaft slot?
Hello and I'm so glad you asked me that before you did anything Please do not cut down the oil pump shaft You will make one of the biggest mistakes towards an engine you could have possibly made if you do that. In the video I said the crank drives the camshaft and the camshaft drives the distributor, well if you don't put the correct spacer under your distributor your cam gear and distributor gear will no longer be in alignment and you will chew that thing into pieces possibly sending large shards of steel and cast iron running through your engine which will for sure wipe it out. You have to make sure the distributor is in the same factory location it was designed to be in so you will have to use a spacer. The only other option is you can buy a distributor that has an adjustable collar on it so all you have to do is loosen a little set screw and you can slide it up and down the shaft and do it that way.
Ok i watched again - If what im hearing is correct the powerstroke is when the intake valve is closing? If thats so then it should be closed on the compression stroke and should not open until after the power stroke? Im askin cause i dont know and just want to make sure thank you sir
Yes sir if you would go to CZcams and type in "four stroke engine animation" and I think the guy that posted it his name is Thomas Stanley I don't know who he is but it's a very short like 45 second video and it perfectly illustrates what's happening after the intake valve opens on the piston downstroke you now have air and fuel in the cylinder as the Piston starts to rise the valve will shut and now you are compressing the mixture just before it reaches top dead center the spark plug will fire you'll reach peak pressure which drives the Piston downward but watch that video several times because it takes that sometimes to really get a good visual.
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you i sure do appreciate you doing this video and goin a step further and replying, Thank you sir hope you and the fam are healthy happy and getting wealthy
So if I put my timing we along with the pin or wire whatever you want to call it and go top then Go twelve degrees And twelve degrees back with that be what you Are talking about
@@jamesquinnie7573 yes the line on the timing tab is your zero mark.. And then you put the timing tape on the balancer or pulley whichever it has. Most factory ones will have marks there as well.
Wanna hear somethin funny, Now that ive got her dialed in now back to my original problem- The starter keeps locking up my flexplate is not broke nor bent its a brand new high torque starter, What am i doing wrong this engine runs good once she is running
And the car had a blown head and the water pump stopped working and it the only car we have can you please help me out thank you very much and God bless you.
Yeah I got carried away they're trying to show what was happening and I turned it by accident more than we should have been turned it was like 50° advance when I started it
You know because of what the valves are doing that's why I was telling you all to pull the valve cover and watch your valves when you see the exhaust valve open it's on the exhaust stroke because the Piston is pushing the spent combustion out of the exhaust you will then notice as you continue rolling the engine in the direction of its rotation that the intake valve opens before the exhaust valve shuts that is your scavenging process that intake valve is actually chasing the Piston down and it gets more and more evident as your camshaft grows larger once your piston reaches top dead center it starts chasing the intake valve closed but of course the valve will close way before the Piston reaches top dead center but you know what stroke you're on because of what your valves are doing that's why I tell you to look for the timing mark to come around as soon as that intake valve starts to close because the very next time you see the timing mark on the balancer come around that is the stroke to which you set your ignition timing I'm going to make a second video and I'll make it more clear I just told another person as well go to CZcams and type in "four cycle engine animation" it's a very short 45 second video but it will clearly show you what's happening
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you mr.Brian - Ive never done this before and your videos and most importantly youre replies have been extremely helpful, Thank you sir with your replies and me paying attention ill get her running and flyin again instead of throwing it in the bay- You sir are the only one out of a about 100 to reply ive also two mechs come to see yet apparently they dont know and they are supposedly certified ase mechs. Thank you sir much respect
The video you sent me to showed compression stroke is the beginning of the powerstroke "same stroke" Some will tell you its two different strokes wich means one comp and the next rotation is the power stroke- Thats what is confusing, Please let me know if i mistook that im tryin, Thank you sir
@@jamesquinnie7573 no it does not have' to be locked out . What I would do is read the engine to around 3000 RPMs and set my total timing that way rather than just setting base Timing. What kind of engine is it
@@jamesquinnie7573 okay so depending on the cylinder head you're going to want a couple different timing settings. If it's an older cast iron head take it to 38° total timing at 3000 RPMs. If it's a modern aluminum cylinder head or a vortec style aluminum head take it to 36° at 3000 RPM The reason being you want to make sure you're not over advancing the timing and that's really easy to do with the old HEI distributors once you set the total timing then let it idle and see where your base timing is. Now keep in mind don't hook up no vacuum advance or anything only use the weights that are already in the distributors So leave the vacuum advance unhooked when you do this. Give it a try and see if you don't get really good performance from it.
@SalterRacingEngines OK cool thank you very much for the information but if I use an MSD DISTRIBUTOR can I drop the distributor in on 33 degrees like u did with weights in it or do I need to lock out the distributor to do like u did on the video?? Just trying to do just like u did because that engine sounded so live and good the way u did it.
I've watched this vid over and over, just don't understand how's an street Engine will start good with putting an distributor in on 34 degrees of timing!! I've seen it done on a racecar with an locked out distributor and starter retard.
@@jamesquinnie7573 well I can promise you it will start just fine. The main reason you're doing it is so especially on new engines you don't have to fight the timing to get it to stay running. Remember this video was how to install a distributor not necessarily replace one. And on a new build you want that engine to stay running so you're not messing up your camshaft break in procedure because you do not want it to be starting and stopping all the time on a brand new engine. But if you set number one at around 30° or somewhere close BTDC, it will crank and run and stay running until you get your light dialed in and get it set. Also remember that once you rev up that race or stock engine, the timing goes to 35 and sometimes much higher than that so you're not hurting anything but just give it a try and see, if you don't like it or it doesn't work for you then now you'll know, but it should work great if you do it correctly exactly how I explain it. During my demonstration when I was showing people about how tight to set the distributor clamp before you crank it, I actually moved it way past where I wanted it so that engine in the video started at close to 50° before top dead center which is why I had to back it down. But Hey I'm just here to help and give you good advice I promise you it will work great. remember this is not for a computer control vehicle. If you have time and you have a car with a distributor take it out and follow my video instructions and see if it doesn't work for you. And let me know I appreciate your comment and if I can help please feel free to ask and I'll do my best.
Paid 🤑Real good money 💰 for the M S D distributor ; cheep 🤮china junk Bushings and Bearings) only lasted :1 year ; then had to replace it with A MADE in U S A 🇺🇸 Distributor)
I be working on cars when I was 15 and now I 50 and my girlfriend have got a 1999 hondy and the Cam shaft is broken and l don't have any money to buy a new one do you now any way to fix it or any help about it
@@JohnboyDawson Sir most likely you need a new engine. That oil pan is probably full of metal. Unfortunately I can't help you out with that. You might want to try calling some salvage yards and tell them your situation
@@SalterRacingEngines I bought that and mine is 6.200”. I’m in the middle. Do you recommend? I ended up scribing my marks longer. Cleveland guys told me no one makes any for that size. Thanks for thinking of me too
@@SalterRacingEngines ok. I’ll look on there. Another distributor video suggestion is changing the gear. Possibly include if on a high volume oil pump, increase the size of the roll pin. Just a video suggestion. Your doing a great job!!
Hope Everyone Enjoyed This Video. Like, Comment, Share, And Subscribe For More!
I just did this and my mild 350 started immediately. I always put my cars together and have to have help getting them running because all the other videos tell u to give it 8 or 12 degrees of advance. So glad i can do this myself now.
You know a few decades ago, before we hade CZcams we had chiltons or hays repair manuals. It was all we had.
Those old manuals have a lot of basic knowledge that is very valuable for people starting to learn.
I have several different ones for my 74 Camaro, and the 92 Chevy truck.
The old ones have wiring diagrams too.
Yeah distributor wrenches are great.
Yeah even a good stock ignition will light you up.
The full msd in the 74 Camaro, msd distributor , 6AL box and blaster 3 coil will give you good jolt. ⚡️⚡️⚡️⚡️
Yes sir, my dad set out to rebuild the transmission in our 57 Pontiac (Hy dramatic) he had a Motors manual, but it went only to 1955 models. So, he went out and bought a Glenns motor manual and it went to 1965 and covered the Hy dramatic transmission (this manual was complete and covered all phases of auto repair) I still have this manual and along with other manuals I have do not under any circumstances loan them out (I will never see them again). As a former Mac dealer, we had many distributor wrenches in our inventory but the best one I had was the wrench shown in the video. That was the KD Tools distributor wrench that covered both 9/16- and 1/2-inch wrench sizes for the bulk of distributors used back then. Yes, sir those ignition systems will light you up and it is also not a good idea to try to start an engine if any raw gasoline has been spilled on them as they will ignite the fumes and cause a bad hair day. Everything set right on an engine, and it will start just like it is supposed to. By taking the time to set everything up it is time efficient as opposed to spending more time to get an engine started.
I have been building engines for 50 years. I enjoy your videos and correct information
Keep up the good work.
@@larrystamey9099 thank you very much sir
Also turning the distributor with the key on looking for a spark at the number one wire that works well too.
Never heard this but it's GENIUS
Keep the videos coming, not just for racers but for the street guys too. Thanks
I’m 70 years old and thank you for sharing your expertise! Ole street rodder from back in the day. Had renal cancer, chemotherapy etc. but still tinkering when able. Cost for me has gone way up to go real fast these days with all the technology. Still try to keep up with it though. Ronnie East, Tennessee
Its not easy to get top engine builders to give up what they have worked hard to learn over the years, so thank you very much. I also just watched your tappet clearance and adjustment video and highly... highly recommend it too.
I have rebuilt several engines in my life. 90% of them were stock and the rest had mild street mods. Recently, I took on a Chrysler 440 with a cam designed for a 2800 stall converter and max power between 4500 and 7000 rpm. It was the first time I ever had to preset the timing at 35 degrees to make the engine run. This video helped confirm that I did it right. Thank you.
This is how I learned many many years ago, with one exception. When you get the distributor on the right tooth, pop the rotor off and align the reluctor wheel with the pickup, then lock the distributor down. It will be within about 3 degrees of your desired timing so you can pay attention to other things when it first fires up instead of grabbing the timing light.
On point style ignition systems I would get the distributor set in and the engine set where I wanted it timed and then with power to the coil advance the distributor to the point where the ignition coil fires. One can also use the spark plug to fire as well.
@@billywird exactly the same as you on a points car. Just pull the distributor in the direction of the vacuum advance until it sparks.
I'm an old motorcycle mechanic, but my wife is making me transfer my hobby to something with 4 wheels! This is just what I needed! Very cool brother!
Thanks, I got the part number from you're timing light, ordered one so i knew it would work with MSD. Thanks again.
Timely, outstanding tips. Tomorrow, I'm putting the distributor and carb back on my Pontiac 463 after I repainted the motor. I have done it before, but your procedures make it fool-proof. Your tip about the 2" estimate from the balancer mark for initial seting is great. Thanks, Leo
You are exactly right, good video. I have been a engine builder for 62 years.
Wow I did some teaching myself, but I can’t tell you how much I learned from you today. Thank you, your a really great teacher
That's great content Brian. Especially the phasing of the distributor to fire before it spins past the electrode.
I got to fire a New 305 with new distributor first thing tomorrow, why the world did the customer want the original engine! Nice demo, always like your content, I need that engine in my Drag Car!!
Good Video
1). Fuel, set expansion rate
2). Phasing, Spark prior to arrival NOT departing"
3). Ahhhh, kinda "Rough Timing", enough to run then "Fine Tune Timing"
4). Killer shock, yeah good tip!
I learned a lot
Great post
That is the way that I was told back in the seventies (we did not have these fancy timing tapes, although people made their own) to set the mark about one and a half or two inches advanced and set your distributor to fire. I have put together stock engines and have set the timing to where the initial timing mark would be (around 10 to 12 degrees0 and upon getting the engine started and putting a light on it the timing would show around 25 or maybe a little more on the marks. However, I like this method much better.
I just hope them boys on tv ( and I know you who you're talking about ) watch this because it made them look so bad. Love the videos.
@@ThomasMurrell-zb5vg hahaha
Quality information & advice 👍 Thank you
Not a professional engine builder but I built my own mini stock engines, Ford 2300. I always set the distributor with the crank on the timing I wanted to run- 38°. It always fired right up and was within 2-3 degrees.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge . I really enjoyed it .
I really like your content I've been renting on cars for over 50 years and it took me at least 20 years to figure out what you just explained keep up the good work man like that very much. If we don't pass on our knowledge to the younger generation it's all going to be lost and I mean how many people out there know how to adjust to set up points or even know what a set of points is and condenser and and and and and good job man.
I got to admit I did learn about the MSD tape different sizes thank you for that.
Nice video and I’ll apply this when I replace the Mallory Unilight with a MSD on my Cleveland. I was told the 80s wanted their distributer back so I have to give up the Mallory. God Bless
Thanks you for sharing your in put on everything
Thank you! Just binge watching here
Just subscribed I love technical information
Good timing on the refresher course. ( Pun intended ). I have to remove my distributor for repair and retime my ignition tomorrow. THANX
Another great video, thanks!
Still got eyebrows 👍🏼😂😂😂😂🤛🏾😎 timing has been my nightmare, great post and now I'm getting back to my motor,yessir!👍🏼🏁🏁🏁
That engine sounds like a beast great video thanks
Your video was very informative thanks
Thanks for the great info.
I am an old wrench, I mark the distributor case with a sharpy as well. Otherwise, perfect. New subscriber don't disappoint me😂 I will call you on it when I think your mistaken. Good luck
LOL I wouldn't expect anything different. But it was perfect because this was for first time distributor installation. Lol hey keep watching you might catch me slipping somewhere.
But you know now that I think about it I probably should have brought that up. Dang
Great tips thankyou
Watching from 'Down Under' Oz 🇦🇺. Have sub'd, looking forward to more gr8 content and videos.... cheers 👍
nice sounding motor
nice tips! thanks Brian, enjoyed the live stream yesterday also!
The only thing that I feel needs clarification is that when you are using the pickup within the distributer, you can not adjust phasing. (Unless I was taught wrong) Only the timing is changed by moving the cap position relative to the rotor button. However, a crank trigger, you have to phase the rotor to the cap in order to get fire down the correct wire and fire in the correct location across the cap terminal.
Oh ya that’s right, how I could of overlooked that and I knew that before! Thank you very much for replying, you helped me shake the cobwebs out of my 63 year old brain!
Thanks you for sharing your in put on everything 😊😅.
Love your videos buddy
Great Channel! Liked & Subscribed
Ok ... Not a bad video but you can do better ....
First off I am going to assume that it's fixed timing because you are setting to total not initial advance ... On a regular engine you should set the balancer to what you want in initial timing not total ...
Then once the distributor is in place like you showed the trigger point on that distributor is just as the reluctor wheel arm passes the center bar on the pickup so you line that up and lock the distributor down ...your timing will then be within a degree or two of what you want .... In the case of hei distributor trigger point is point to point ....
I understand what you're saying but if you're setting the timing before top dead center that would be the compression stroke. It doesn't become the power stroke until top dead center.
Can you do a crank trigger video. Thanks for your great videos and sharing your knowledge.😊
You can tell she’s going to rev💯
Very good video thanks
Sweet, now ill never look like i was in a bombing lol. Thanks for the pro tips brian. I really appreciated your valve adjustment vid. Super easy no bs no confusion. Alot of morons tell you to go by feel. The bad news is if ive NEVER done it how the hell am i supposed to know how it feels when proper? Thanks again buddy, dont worry im going to comment alot. Just so u remember me lol. Take care
I like bumping the starter to line up the pump shaft. Or turn the flywheel a little bit let it fall right in.
Yeah I'm a little scared to show people that but that's what I do too
That’s what I always do too!
I build 4 cylinder vw engines and MOSTLY carburettor stuf
Your content is outstanding, thanks for sharing
Man it hurts getting hit by just about any vehicle when it sparks not just msd. I got caught the other day on my 4.2L trailblazer. The good news is that the coil wasn’t the problem😂
right on thanks for the vid
No problem 👍
good solid old school info... it's been a while since i've had to stab a distributor... that being said.. after tuning EFI for the last couple decades.. were kinds spoiled to setting timing with the keyboard these days..
Nice thanks man!
Thanks
Just curious how come you don't use on a street rig a vacuum advance. I sure wish you have showed how to set total advance with your timing light. Love your info and videos thank you.
Hey stay tuned I'll make that my next video I meant to do it earlier but I haven't got to it but I will make that the next video
very good video 👍
When you set the timing on a model A you better be having it at 2° after top dead center if you're starting it with the crank it won't kick back on you that way.
Yeah I had bumped it when I was trying to explain things it was actually about 50° advance and by the way I've never set the timing on that kind of car
@@SalterRacingEngines That's okay just good info.
News of the channel enjoy all of your knowledge. I would like to know your honest opinion about protonix distributors. HP ignition. I have a 302 in a 93 f150. Play around on the street. 150 shot of nitrous
I know you're going to fine tune it but why so high in the initial timing? Would 10btdc not be better than 30 odd? I will be adapting your thought process as you said it doesn't fire at 0 degrees!🇦🇺
That's a great question I do it because I want the engine to stay running I don't want to be fighting the low timing while I'm trying to set things. Plus it doesn't hurt anything and like you said I'm going to fine tune it. If you to break in a flat tappet cam the last thing you want is for the engine to be cutting on and off all the time while you're trying to get things going
In addition this engine will never see below 25°so like I said in the video, you have to adapt it to what you're doing
But I do this with every distributor driven engine I build. Because I want it to stay running while I get everything set. Try it next time you'll see it's really nice makes things a lot easier.
@@SalterRacingEngines yeah absolutely. Flat tappet break in could be a good vid. Making sure there is fuel in the bowls so it fires and not winding it over a million times wiping all the lube off the cam! Keep up the good work!
I use a magic marker and put a dot on the distributor housing where-#1 terminal is.then you just line up rotor with your dot. I shake too much to hold my finger still. lol.
@@jasonbernhardt1613 hahaha yeah that works too
That is what it is all about.
Nice outro. What is the band?
I assume you're talking about the distributor and that would be an MSD
Nice
If you are going to set the balancer for 34~35 degrees advance, shouldn't you align the rotor and cap with the rotor twisted to fully apply whatever centrifugal advance the distributor has to make this as accurate as possible?
Technically you want to fire on compression stroke.
Great job, thanks
Hey up mate seen a couple of your videos lately and like what youse are doing so have given the sub, watched this one as wondering if I've missed a trick over the years but turn's out must have been doing good all these years, working on bultaco dirt bikes as a young fella seems to have payed off. Thanks mr salter
yes the stock slant six timing is 0 degrees. it sucks but that's where Chrysler says it go's.
my 388 sbc with 15to1 comp. likes 36-37 degrees
Just so you know engines don't run at zero degrees of timing the reason you're setting it there is because once you hook up the vacuum advance and on computer control stuff wants the computer takes over generally speaking they will run between 5 and 12° of Base timing because that is what is referred to as base ignition timing but the moment you crack that throttle in the RPM starts to rise you start coming into what's called advanced timing and you will eventually reach total advance timing all engines gasoline powered will be between 28° and 40° of total advance timing and this is why when I tell people if you're installing a distributor for the first time set the distributor on number one where the total advance timing would be because the reason is once you install the distributor you now have to set it with a timing light and you have to use the procedures that go with that engine the last thing you want to do is trying to hook stuff up or fiddle with the carburetor or fiddle with anything while the engine won't stay running because the timing is too low and being at total advance timing is absolutely harmless and it will aid you and getting the job done quicker with less fuss and not fighting the engine. Hope that helps I'm going to do a second video and explain a lot more detail
@@SalterRacingEngines Yes I understand that... I'm really old and have been doing this my hole life. Love the content, keep up the great work and be safe.
So... I'm assuming the fàctory timing mark on the balancer or tab on the timing chain cover is approx 34-38 deg advanced. Reading spec's are 4 to 8 degrees depending on the engine. Previously assumed those 30+ degrees of timing were max advance at speed (vacuum + mechanical). Would like clarification
Hey great question man I will be sure to address that very soon I'm going to do a part two on that video there's a lot of stuff people asked and hopefully I can clear all that up
But for now the white Mark in the video is top dead center and then the timing tape allows me to see where my distributor is firing so if the white Mark lines up with whatever number that is the actual ignition timing the engine is on at that moment
Outstanding! I did not expect a reply... and so soon after I commented. I anxiously await your response. And ThankYou
I’ve dropped the distributor in 180 out before. But I can set hydraulic valves on my small block and never have to adjust them, ever.
I have a long extension with a really big socked that looks like a slotted screw driver attachment. I tape it to the end of the long extension(just in case), to turn the oil pump shaft to line it up with distributor shaft.
And I be working on it but I love working on the old cars my brother in law gave me a 1985I rock before he passed away with sugar but it up in Delaware and it needs a lot of work and I be told by my doctor that I have cancer and l will not be able to see my kids grow up .
If I'm reinstalling the distributor I'm not pulling the valve cover to do the job. I will install a compression gauge hose get TDC compression stroke.
With a decked block and the intake manifold I am running I have to cut down my china rails to get the manifold down on the head ports. This makes my oil pump shaft too tall which jacks up my distributor. With out adding a spacer between the distributor and intake manifold what is the procedure to cut down the oil pump shaft and what would the optimum clearance be at the distributor pin and shaft slot?
Hello and I'm so glad you asked me that before you did anything
Please do not cut down the oil pump shaft
You will make one of the biggest mistakes towards an engine you could have possibly made if you do that.
In the video I said the crank drives the camshaft and the camshaft drives the distributor, well if you don't put the correct spacer under your distributor your cam gear and distributor gear will no longer be in alignment and you will chew that thing into pieces possibly sending large shards of steel and cast iron running through your engine which will for sure wipe it out. You have to make sure the distributor is in the same factory location it was designed to be in so you will have to use a spacer.
The only other option is you can buy a distributor that has an adjustable collar on it so all you have to do is loosen a little set screw and you can slide it up and down the shaft and do it that way.
@@SalterRacingEnginesthis is super important advice
What's your opinion on running locked distributor on daily drivet..🤔
Bad ass.👍🏾👍🏾
So can u put the balancer on 35 degrees and drop the distributor in with an vacuum advance distributor or this only for 8551 msd distributors??
@@jamesquinnie7573 yes once it's running you can find tune it.
Ok i watched again - If what im hearing is correct the powerstroke is when the intake valve is closing? If thats so then it should be closed on the compression stroke and should not open until after the power stroke? Im askin cause i dont know and just want to make sure thank you sir
Yes sir if you would go to CZcams and type in "four stroke engine animation" and I think the guy that posted it his name is Thomas Stanley I don't know who he is but it's a very short like 45 second video and it perfectly illustrates what's happening after the intake valve opens on the piston downstroke you now have air and fuel in the cylinder as the Piston starts to rise the valve will shut and now you are compressing the mixture just before it reaches top dead center the spark plug will fire you'll reach peak pressure which drives the Piston downward but watch that video several times because it takes that sometimes to really get a good visual.
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you i sure do appreciate you doing this video and goin a step further and replying, Thank you sir hope you and the fam are healthy happy and getting wealthy
❤
And I be working on it but I love working on the old cars my brother in law gave me a 1985I rock before he passed away with sugar
👍
So if I put my timing we along with the pin or wire whatever you want to call it and go top then Go twelve degrees And twelve degrees back with that be what you Are talking about
So how did you get the line u put on timing tab for TDC?? I thought you use the 0 on tab for TDC?
@@jamesquinnie7573 yes the line on the timing tab is your zero mark.. And then you put the timing tape on the balancer or pulley whichever it has. Most factory ones will have marks there as well.
We dial indicated TDC and then painted that Mark so we knew the Mark was dead on the money at zero
I have a mystery cam , how can I find the correct timing?
Wanna hear somethin funny, Now that ive got her dialed in now back to my original problem- The starter keeps locking up my flexplate is not broke nor bent its a brand new high torque starter, What am i doing wrong this engine runs good once she is running
He might need a shim in your starter what's your base timing and what your total timing?
And the car had a blown head and the water pump stopped working and it the only car we have can you please help me out thank you very much and God bless you.
I found the problem was The main water line had a hole in it and all the wate was going in to the oil pan
I'd say when it started it almost backfired it was buck in time.
Yeah I got carried away they're trying to show what was happening and I turned it by accident more than we should have been turned it was like 50° advance when I started it
How do you know if its on the compression stroke or the power stroke & Are you using the terms seperately or interchangably? Thank you
You know because of what the valves are doing that's why I was telling you all to pull the valve cover and watch your valves when you see the exhaust valve open it's on the exhaust stroke because the Piston is pushing the spent combustion out of the exhaust you will then notice as you continue rolling the engine in the direction of its rotation that the intake valve opens before the exhaust valve shuts that is your scavenging process that intake valve is actually chasing the Piston down and it gets more and more evident as your camshaft grows larger once your piston reaches top dead center it starts chasing the intake valve closed but of course the valve will close way before the Piston reaches top dead center but you know what stroke you're on because of what your valves are doing that's why I tell you to look for the timing mark to come around as soon as that intake valve starts to close because the very next time you see the timing mark on the balancer come around that is the stroke to which you set your ignition timing I'm going to make a second video and I'll make it more clear
I just told another person as well go to CZcams and type in "four cycle engine animation" it's a very short 45 second video but it will clearly show you what's happening
@@SalterRacingEngines Thank you mr.Brian - Ive never done this before and your videos and most importantly youre replies have been extremely helpful, Thank you sir with your replies and me paying attention ill get her running and flyin again instead of throwing it in the bay- You sir are the only one out of a about 100 to reply ive also two mechs come to see yet apparently they dont know and they are supposedly certified ase mechs. Thank you sir much respect
The video you sent me to showed compression stroke is the beginning of the powerstroke "same stroke" Some will tell you its two different strokes wich means one comp and the next rotation is the power stroke- Thats what is confusing, Please let me know if i mistook that im tryin, Thank you sir
Do the distributor suppose to be locked out for this procedure??
@@jamesquinnie7573 no it does not have' to be locked out .
What I would do is read the engine to around 3000 RPMs and set my total timing that way rather than just setting base Timing.
What kind of engine is it
It should say rev the engine
@@SalterRacingEngines It's a 383 sbc
@@jamesquinnie7573 okay so depending on the cylinder head you're going to want a couple different timing settings. If it's an older cast iron head take it to 38° total timing at 3000 RPMs.
If it's a modern aluminum cylinder head or a vortec style aluminum head take it to 36° at 3000 RPM
The reason being you want to make sure you're not over advancing the timing and that's really easy to do with the old HEI distributors once you set the total timing then let it idle and see where your base timing is. Now keep in mind don't hook up no vacuum advance or anything only use the weights that are already in the distributors So leave the vacuum advance unhooked when you do this. Give it a try and see if you don't get really good performance from it.
@SalterRacingEngines OK cool thank you very much for the information but if I use an MSD DISTRIBUTOR can I drop the distributor in on 33 degrees like u did with weights in it or do I need to lock out the distributor to do like u did on the video?? Just trying to do just like u did because that engine sounded so live and good the way u did it.
For some reason i dont see part 2
Distributor part 2 is Not done yet
I've watched this vid over and over, just don't understand how's an street Engine will start good with putting an distributor in on 34 degrees of timing!! I've seen it done on a racecar with an locked out distributor and starter retard.
@@jamesquinnie7573 well I can promise you it will start just fine. The main reason you're doing it is so especially on new engines you don't have to fight the timing to get it to stay running. Remember this video was how to install a distributor not necessarily replace one. And on a new build you want that engine to stay running so you're not messing up your camshaft break in procedure because you do not want it to be starting and stopping all the time on a brand new engine. But if you set number one at around 30° or somewhere close BTDC, it will crank and run and stay running until you get your light dialed in and get it set. Also remember that once you rev up that race or stock engine, the timing goes to 35 and sometimes much higher than that so you're not hurting anything but just give it a try and see, if you don't like it or it doesn't work for you then now you'll know, but it should work great if you do it correctly exactly how I explain it. During my demonstration when I was showing people about how tight to set the distributor clamp before you crank it, I actually moved it way past where I wanted it so that engine in the video started at close to 50° before top dead center which is why I had to back it down. But Hey I'm just here to help and give you good advice I promise you it will work great. remember this is not for a computer control vehicle.
If you have time and you have a car with a distributor take it out and follow my video instructions and see if it doesn't work for you. And let me know I appreciate your comment and if I can help please feel free to ask and I'll do my best.
@SalterRacingEngines Thank You Very Much, Sir!! Jus wanna know for sure good answers!!
Paid 🤑Real good money 💰 for the M S D distributor ; cheep 🤮china junk Bushings and Bearings) only lasted :1 year ; then had to replace it with A MADE in U S A 🇺🇸 Distributor)
❤ Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP 2024 ❤
I be working on cars when I was 15 and now I 50 and my girlfriend have got a 1999 hondy and the Cam shaft is broken and l don't have any money to buy a new one do you now any way to fix it or any help about it
@@JohnboyDawson Sir most likely you need a new engine. That oil pan is probably full of metal. Unfortunately I can't help you out with that. You might want to try calling some salvage yards and tell them your situation
@@SalterRacingEngines the Pan didn't have any metal in it but the oil and water was mix like gravy
@@SalterRacingEngines well a new engine is $2000and a used one is around $1000 .
Looking for timing tape for my Romac 6.200” balancer on my Cleveland
@@johnnyhonda7576 www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwi37MCt2OuHAxUzm1oFHVGnFxQYABArGgJ2dQ&co=1&ase=2&gclid=Cj0KCQjwn9y1BhC2ARIsAG5IY-46gDmOx1ORWpkTPGLzhT020FVClVcAt_Rf84_wO_s1Lulb-GMw5X4aAiNKEALw_wcB&sph=&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESVuD2DWYvmJB8jk-6Xr3Wgdrv5aCTreqGePWXspmCB69ABY1ZLvZX8fUePurQ15JQQLlFi5_lfFAL49_nf06Xr6LHZtEpu5Sr-p2LHBCYAXOM0-UZ_e7Z&sig=AOD64_1N_ibMmT1LN1a2bWMbcRA2u1lAoQ&ctype=5&q=&nis=4&ved=2ahUKEwjHrrut2OuHAxWqRzABHXIGGvcQwg8oAHoECAkQEg&adurl=
@@SalterRacingEngines I bought that and mine is 6.200”. I’m in the middle. Do you recommend? I ended up scribing my marks longer. Cleveland guys told me no one makes any for that size. Thanks for thinking of me too
@@johnnyhonda7576 eBay has it. Timming tape 6.250 inches. I don't know what brand it is but it is not MSD I think it was black colored
@@SalterRacingEngines ok. I’ll look on there. Another distributor video suggestion is changing the gear. Possibly include if on a high volume oil pump, increase the size of the roll pin. Just a video suggestion. Your doing a great job!!
@@johnnyhonda7576 great idea
Wot