How to Make a Crotch Curve Template with a Bendable Ruler & Use it to Adjust Your Pants Pattern
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 07. 2024
- This week on Fit Tip Tuesday, I'm diving deep into the bendable ruler crotch curve template. I was really curious to see if I could improve the fit of my Sorcha Classic Slim Trousers using a template of my crotch shape. I ordered a 36" bendable ruler and I gave it a try. I used it to adjust my personal pattern pieces. I also wanted to see if the bendable ruler could help fit a part of pants for my daughter Anna. Join me to see what happened!
00:00 Intro
00:51 How to use an L-Ruler & a Clear Grid Ruler to Measure Your Depth
02:44 How to use a Bendable Ruler to Make a Crotch Curve Template
06:32 How to use the Crotch Template to Adjust the Pants Pattern
07:00 Anna's Crotch Curve Template made a dramatic change to the pattern
08:45 Photo showing how my pants fit after adjusting the crotch curve
09:30 Photo showing how Anna's pants fit after adjusting the crotch curve
11:00 What's up next on Subscriber Q&A and Outro
Amazon Affiliate Link: 36" bendable ruler: amzn.to/3Zkrzrb
Sorcha Classic Slim Trousers Pattern: jsterndesigns.com/product/sor...
The Straight & Contoured Non-Stretch Waistband Kit: jsterndesigns.com/product/non...
The Straight Non-Stretch Waistband Kit: jsterndesigns.com/product/str...
The Contoured Non-Stretch Waistband Kit: jsterndesigns.com/product/con...
Links to Everything J Stern Designs (Email, Zoom Classes & More!)
linktr.ee/jsterndesigns
Questions?
jsterndesigns37@gmail.com
Join my new FB Group: J Stern Designs Fit Sew Embroider
/ 28440. . - Jak na to + styl
Great Video, Jen. That's what I've always wanted to do. But here is a little Tip: When you draw along the bendable ruler, the correct line is on the inside of the ruler, which is the side that touches your body when you measure.
That's so true!! ... See you have to watch me carefully to see what I screw up! I'm going to try it again, marking the inside of the ruler to see if it makes a difference (after I get home from teaching in Kansas this weekend). Thanks for watching
I know you've already had a long career in the sewing, pattern-making and pattern-fitting industry and I love how you still experiment!
:) I'm on a mission to make pants fitting easy for everyone... and some things are easier or make more sense than others for some sewers but not others... so I like to have a lot of tools in my box! Thanks for watching
Every short pattern I made, the back crotch was too short. I used rolled up aluminum foil to get my back crotch curve. Once I saw my low butt, I drafted and made a muslin with a foil form. Now I have shorts or pants that fit perfect!
:) ...how did I get the idea for the aluminum foil rings for my bendable ruler??? First I tried folding a pieces of aluminum foil up to use to see if I could get my crotch curve that way... I guess I didn't make it thick enough, mine would not hold the shape... so I cut it into skinny strips and used them to mark the inseam and waistline! Thanks for fitting along with me
All I can say is, WOW! I’ve been intrigued with pants fitting for years. Thanks for this!
Happy to help! Thanks for fitting along with me
Using the metal ruler for the crotch depth is genius! Thank you for this.
Thanks so much! and thank you for fitting along with me
I think you cracked the code with this idea. Just compared the flex ruler curve to my fit muslin and I can see some changes (lowering bottom) that I know will alleviate the fitting issue I still had (where and how much to scoop). Whoa! You are brilliant.
Happy to hear that this is helping you!, thanks for fitting along with me
You are our R and D Queen, Jen! I had hoped the bendable ruler would help me and now I know how to use it! When one likes adventure and discovery, finishing projects is a challenge when another one looms ahead! You are a gem.
Happy to help! :) Thanks for fitting along with me!
Omgosh, you simplified that so well for a newbie and the examples really helped me visualise it. I am now subscribing to learn all the things!!😊
Glad it was helpful! And, Thank you for Subscribing to my Channel!
Omg i just found your channel.. how fab is this. I will be sharing this to my fitting group.
Thank you so much! And Thank you for fitting along with me
If you go to the dollar store or a hardware store, they have a multisize pack of “O” rings. I use them to slide on the bendable ruler. They stay in place and slide easily.
Also I bought a second L ruler and use ponytail hair ties to hold them together. It’s then so easy to measure depth of waist.
What are “O” rings?
That's a great idea... I was running around the house trying to figure out something that would work without having to go shopping!
They are little rubber/plastic rings that you can slide along the ruler :)
Thank you!!!
Genius, Jen! I was using my flexible ruler last night but kept flubbing up because I was trying to mark the points with my finger, pull out the ruler, and then read the measurements. 😂 What a great solution to use the foil to mark those measurements. Using the SewTites is a wonderful way to keep the shape in place. Why didn’t I think of that? 🤣 Tips like these are why you’re such an epic teacher! Thank you so much! Now off to order the longer ruler…
:) Thanks Lynn! ... and thank you for following along with me
Thank you, Jen.
You are so welcome! ...and Thank you so much!
Excellent information as always. I have had the bendable ruler for years but always thought it was too short to do a crotch curve. Guess I need to purchase an extended model.
:) I was so happy to find a longer than 24" version! Thanks for watching
I love the idea of a bendable ruler, but it seems like no measurements were needed. I wonder if you could use a thick wire instead? It may retain the shape better.
This technique is just another tool to help you get your pattern to agree with your shape. The measurements I'm looking at when I use my Crotch Curve Template are the depth measurements front to back. This helps me adjust the base of the crotch curve to agree with me. I tried using an old wire hanger that was a pretty thick wire... I think I would have been more successful if I didn't have to unbend it into a straight line before trying to bend it around me. The other issue is that the crotch measurement only tells you what's going on along that very thin section of your body... It doesn't capture the entire measurement for the crotch... Things like a prominent front thigh creates a need to lengthen the front crotch point ... this isn't captured by the bendable ruler.... Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great idea !
Some questions:
1. You drew the curve on the outside of the bendable ruler - but it followed your body on the inside curve. Would this make much of a difference, or does it give a bit of ease that helps?
2. When you fit the bendable rulter to the body, would you want to allow for any difference between the centerline and possible bigger size of the butt cheeks?
3. For men's crotch curve, do you need to make allowance for the extra appendages on the body?
1. Yes, I screwed up and traced around the outside of the ruler... I do think it adds ease...But I'm going to try it by tracing the inside of the ruler to see if it makes a significant difference in the fit. 2. The size difference between left and right side of the body does not affect the crotch length... the length is the length... if you have a significant difference in the size of your butt cheeks, you may need to make a right and left leg and make changes to the side seams. 3. I've been doing some Man Private Pants Fitting... what I'm experiencing is that it's not necessarily true that the front crotch curve/inseam needs extra length. I start with extra front rise/crotch extension and then work from there.... I haven't tried the bendable ruler on a man shape yet... But my guess is that it would be a slightly different shape ... Most of the "extra appendage" will be "dressed to the left or the right"...Not right down the center. (Hope this helps!) Thanks for fitting along with me
great video, thank you. I must be blind because I don't see the link to the magnets. Was wanting to check them out.
:) Thanks so much... Here's the link: www.sewtites.com/?ref=s4TwrYTg Thanks for watching
when you place your pants pattern pieces on the crotch curve you drew, are the inseams lined up or are the grain lines vertical?
You line up the stitching lines along the inseams :) Thanks for watching
Hello! Do you happen to have a tutorial on adjusting ready to wear dresses for being short waisted and adjusting ready to wear tops/dresses for narrow chest/shoulders and large bust? Thank you!
If your ready to wear dress is short waisted...and you can shorten the hem... I would cut a strip of fabric off the hem and insert a band to drop the waist where it needs to sit. If you can't shorten the skirt at the hem, find a fabric that coordinates with the garment fabric. Hope that helps with the short waist. Here's a tutorial to do a full bust adjustment and take in the high bust (you can also shorten the shoulder length while taking in the chest area) czcams.com/video/VMi2YjsA95M/video.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Great video, I too are like your daughter no butt so thank you for your tip.
Thanks! ...I am thrilled to have this starting crotch curve for Anna... It's definitely going to save me time fitting her pants pattern! Thank you for fitting along with me
Hi I am trying to understand how you can take your crotch depth around your waist. I thought u have to sit in a chair and measure from your waist down to the chair. Can u explain?? Thanks
I was using the depth measurement to control the tops of the bendable ruler to hold the shape as accurately as I could. The ends of the ruler tend to splay back out when you remove it from your body. :) I work out the width of the waist and full hip in the fitting by adding extra along the side seams and above the waistline. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Hi, Jennifer. Great technique for more accurate crotch fitting. I’m on of your students in Kansas City and really looking forward to your pants class. I’m wondering if you are bring some of the 24” crotch curve rulers to the class? If so I’d live to get one/buy one from you there instead of sending it to Oregon and then I won’t get it before the class. Thanks, KT.
Thanks!... I'm looking forward to our workshop! I do not sell these rules, just provide amazon affiliate links... but I do have my 24" ruler... I'll bring that to you gift to you! See you soon!
You’re too sweet. See you Saturday!
@@katieteach2882 …and yes, it’s confirmed, I remembered to pack it!! See you Saturday
Jen, would you post your affiliate link to the sew tites please.
You can use this link for any SewTites purchase. If you would like to PRE-ORDER The Sew Magnetic™ Cutting System ... use my affiliate link to get 15% off! www.sewtites.com/discount/jsterndesigns?ref=s4TwrYTg I have my SewTites Cutting System and I LOVE it...
wouldn't it be better to do the measure at the fullest part of your body between waist and crotch depth level (full hip)?
I'm sorry, I should have explained why I took my depth measurement higher than the full hip... The shape of the bendable ruler is more stable around the base of the curve. The ends of the ruler tend to flare out when you lay it down. Measuring the depth at the small of the back/tummy gives me a guide to keep the ruler in shape when I put it down on the paper. You can also take a full hip depth if you wanted to compare that depth with your crotch curve. :) Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Good thinking
I’m not understanding what the purpose of the body depth measurement is. Why take it at the waist instead of at the widest part of the body?
I'm sorry, I should have explained why I took my depth measurement higher than the full hip... The shape of the bendable ruler is more stable around the base of the curve. The ends of the ruler tend to flare out when you lay it down. Measuring the depth at the small of the back/tummy gives me a guide to keep the ruler in shape when I put it down on the paper. You can also take a full hip depth if you wanted to compare that depth with your crotch curve. :) Thanks for watching
That makes sense! Thank you!