Transfer Marbled Book Edge // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- čas přidán 23. 01. 2020
- In this video I demonstrate how to transfer a marbled pattern from hand marbled paper using muriatic acid (HCl). This is an old technique described in The Art of Bookbinding by Joseph Zaehnsdorf. This is not a practical method of #edge #decoration and has been done out of curiosity.
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The book was bound following the instructions in Peter Verheyen's article Der Gebrochene Rücken: A variation of the German case binding.
surface.syr.edu/sul/33/
The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
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The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding CZcams Channel guide.
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in this video is performed by Jon Sayles. Jon has some great classical guitar music on his website, which he shares freely. I highly recommend you check it out. - Jak na to + styl
I found your channel while falling down a youtube rabbit hole on bookbinding so I could repair a favorite book that has been duct tape together for almost 20 years. Now I binge watch. This is really cool. Off to the thrift store tomorrow for more books to practice on. I love your channel!
This is so fascinating. Thank you for demonstrating this for all of us. So much hard work I almost couldn’t write in a journal like that ❤
Who would have thought that hydrochloric acid had a use in a bindery? Brilliant! Now I have to try this with all of my scraps of marbled paper.
I think I mention it, but maybe didn't stress it, most of my marbled papers didn't work. I believe these were all done with acrylic paint. The only 2 that worked were older stock and I believe were oil paints, but not sure. And if you use very strong acid, like I did, don't do it near any steel tools or you'll be cleaning rust off everything the next day - as I found out the hard way. Good luck! Darryn
Several times after watching your videos I've run off and bought something new. But hydrochloric acid is one step beyond me :D A fun and fascinating video though. And the result definitely looks washed out but is much better than I would've anticipated.
I was expecting complete failure as well. I guess when you set your expectations so low that result might look okay:)
Enjoy your videos, Thankyou.
That was a fun demonstration!
Forget the "1000 degree KNIFE VS", the "Fire Challenge", the "Bleach Drinking Challenge", and the "knife game", this is the most dangerous challenge of them all. @Stopan @Sea Lemon @BookbindersChronicle @Peter Baumgartner @Sage Reynolds
CAN Y'ALL DO IT?
10:35 LOL
I'm not really the competitive type. But all this talk of knives reminds me of the most dangerous thing I do in the bindery and that it remove and sharpen the guillotine blade. That thing is scary!
Thanks for this video! I was completely unaware of this procedure and it looks like a certainly viable option given the results (with due caution used with HCl acid, of course). I
did some searching and came across some other old publications that gave some tiny differences in the method compared to the given procedure by Zaehnsdorf that might further improve the outcome (one of them actually states that this method 'is the only one by which a satisfactory job can be made'). The procedure differs by using 'albumen or egg size' (glair) on the edge first, laying the marbled paper down while still wet, and then wetting the marbled paper with the muriatic acid using a brush (not laying it in a shallow dish and applying it wet). The glair seems to be the main factor that seems (potentially) to change the outcome for the better as I can't really think how pre-wetting in a dish or wetting on the edge would affect the outcome (might be fun to experiment). Wetting on the edge though does seem like it would be much safer with less chance of spillage or knocking something over. Here are some screencaps I took of the small write-ups and a link to another which I couldn't capture well enough in enlarged font size on one page.
(from International Bookbinder -1924)
i.imgur.com/b3xQn7s.jpg
(from The Bookbinder -1891) i.imgur.com/9MMTd4M.jpg
books.google.com/books?id=24LnAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA111#v=onepage&q&f=false
I'm intrigued by the concluding remark in the above link about marbled edges achieved this way lasting an indefinite time due to them being 'etched on' and not being able to be washed off or nor wear off given years of use!
One final thing that came to mind was perhaps using a burnisher or other smooth object (that wouldn't be damaged by the acid) and to rub the marbled paper to possibly achieve a better transfer than hitting with a hammer. That might cause things to smear though... might be another good thing to experiment with.
Thanks Joel! This is not a video I expected to revisit. But clearly a follow-up will be required! I wonder what the glaire does? The acid seems to dissolve the colour rather than just releasing it from the paper. Half of it ends up in the original paper the marbling was on. This is why the colour isn't as vibrant. Well I guess being dissolved by acid might affect the colour too:) I thought the comment about making the glaire thicker than used for finishing amusing since there is no agreement in the literature about the ratio of egg white to water for finishing. I've seen everything from 1:1 to 1:10. I a lso like the comment about it being longer lasting, except for the accelerated deterioration of paper due to the acid maybe:) Thanks again.
Darryn
Fascinating & dangerous, what's not to like? I remember reading that section in Zaehnsdorf and thinking "muriatic acid ... really???" but it turned out pretty well. I'm unsure of the chemistry behind the transfer process and I wonder what it is specifically about the HCl that caused the marbled/wax burnished layer to transfer the pigment like that. Never mind, it clearly works. As you say, I bet the archivists are purple with rage by now! Buffered paper will help and I guess you could dust the edges with an alkaline powder to raise the pH after transfer and before waxing - baking soda springs to mind?
Hi John. Maybe I should have used fine ground chalk instead of talc on the edge:)
@@DASBookbinding I forgot to ask Darryn, I know you mentioned that you have a long list of videos planned, but is Peter Verheyen's Gebrochene Rücken on the list?
Yes, on the list. Just have to do it a few more times to be very comfortable with it. It has some tricky steps.
@@DASBookbinding Woo-hoo! Look forward to seeing it.
Very interesting. I would be concerned that the lessons we learnt for acid-free paper were being undone by this technique. Some sort of neutraliser would seem in order.
I don;t think I intended for this to be significantly used. More a test of historical techniques. But having said that there are many historical techniques that use chemicals and materials that are now poorly thought of but have lasted well. One must think carefully about broad conservation advice . For instance the buffers used in many papers to make them "acid free" can have a very negative impact on some photographs. I suspect this edge will work out fine in the long run because it is not a very stable acid and most will evaporate into the atmosphere. All the best, DAS
Two years later, the youtube fame has gone to his head. "Hi everyone its ya boy DAS Bookbinding! Today we're going to decorate an edge using thermite."
Well, maybe a branding iron. Actually why haven't I thought of that already!
I reckon a flame-thrower would work pretty well too.
@@DASBookbinding I have a cheap pyrography set left over from an old project, I've sometimes thought about using that for edges. It has a bunch of moon and star tools, so if I ever do a "book of spells" type project I might try burning those into the edges.
A friend got a cheap one from Aldi that he uses for bookbinding. Sounds like a grea idea!
I guess that's a 3rd method of a doing a graphite edge:)
Nice video, I wonder if a J-roller would work for "pressings" the pattern in?
Not sure what a j-roller is. But the pattern just needs to transfer not be impressed. It's just a bit of fun this. DAS
I enjoy your videos and will begin my gilt edge journey too. I wonder how your work bench / Vice shows no signs of abrasion after all that vigorous ploughing. Also when you scape the book edge is there not a danger that your wedges that hold the book in the Vice and the book edge itself don’t get to be concave.
They are very smooth. It is showing a bit of wear after many years. The gilding boards get planed after each use.
Very interesting, thank you. What is the diameter of the screw from the lying press ?
2 1/2 inches. Made by Frank Wiesner
www.wiesnerwoodcraft.com/
vimeo.com/91242746
@@DASBookbinding Great work, great workshop, great man. Thank you
Hydrochloric isn't particularly dangerous. For kicks, in your copious amounts of spare time, try it with vinegar.
I think I'm done with this one. DAS
WOW. :) You've tried the edge of the book for gilding?
I do an average job of gilding an edge towards the end of this video. DAS
czcams.com/video/amI7yis0M34/video.html
Or did you mean gild over the edge with the transfer marbled edge?
@@DASBookbinding No, you did the gilding well, interesting :-). I haven't tried one yet. Would I have a good question of how marbled how to do it and show it to me?
I received a piece of transfer marbled paper from a friend but I have no clue as how to use it. Is it possible for me to contact your teacher? Thank you.
I'll ask June at our Christmas party. But I'm sure it is like kids fake tattoos - just put on the surface and wet on the back with water. But I'm not sure it is made anymore. You might want to keep it is an artefact.
Why not just to dip the edges in the solution?
Do you live by a race track?
No, just sounds like it. DAS