I Recreated a Victorian Walking Suit Bodice...But Made It Dark Academia
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
- Hand sewing this dark academia version of an original 1890-91 Victorian walking suit bodice is the secret project I have been working on for the past 2-3 months. I was shocked to find out when upsizing the extant pattern, that the original measurements of the garment are EXACTLY my size. It gave me an especially eerie feeling. Therefore, not only is this bodice a recreation, it's a recreation in the original size.
I'm very pleased to finally be able to release the footage for all of you to see. This late Victorian bodice/jacket was certainly a labour of love, and it took me more than 300 hours to complete. Now, I am on to making the walking suit skirt, which will be released as another video (part 2) in 2 weeks time (June 24th, 2021), at which point I will also do the grand reveal of this entire ensemble. This was an especially fun but tedious process, and as a historical sewing novice, it truly tested my abilities and forced me to think outside of the box and dive deep into research.
Each section covers in-depth the chain of events and techniques required for the construction of this Victorian bodice, however, this certainly is not a tutorial. Rather, a collection of things I deemed might be interesting or entertaining for you all to see.
I cannot wait to add this entire ensemble to my daily historical fashion wardrobe. What historical sewing projects are you all currently working on?
A massive thank you to Fashion Museum Bath for providing permission to utilise the images of the original walking suit.
Yours, etc.
V. Birchwood
Hooks & bars and pearl buttons from (not sponsored): www.etsy.com/uk/shop/MaxwellLace
Social Media:
/ vasibirchwood
Facebook / vbirchwoodhistorical
Email vbirchwoodhistorical@gmail.com
Time Stamps:
0:00 Intro
3:21 How the Garment Fastens
4:16 Drafting the Pieces & Making a Mockup
6:20 Cutting the Fabric
8:12 Back Bodice Construction
9:09 Front Bodice Construction (& So Many Darts!)
11:40 The Tabs & Front Facings
13:34 Ribbon Binding & Boning
15:57 The Collar
17:15 The Buttons and Buttonholes
18:19 The Sleeves & Fixing Errors
20:20 The Stay Tape/What I Still Want to Add
21:06 The Big Bodice Reveal
22:04 Final Thoughts & End Screen
Music sourced from Epidemic Sound.
Sources:
Walking Suit 1889 www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
Walking Suit 1890-95 www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
Walking Suit 1890-91 www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
Walking Suit circa 1910 commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
Redfern, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
Quill and paper:
unsplash.com/photos/QdRnZlzYJPA
Books on a shelf:
unsplash.com/photos/jKU2NneZAbI
Books stacked with lamp:
unsplash.com/photos/8muUTAmcWU4
Papers and magnifying glass:
unsplash.com/photos/JtlYforRROg
Walking Suit Extant 1890-91:
Credit to Fashion Museum Bath
#handsewing #historicalsewing #Victorian
The mental patience you have is astounding. I would have gave up. the final product looks amazing.
Thanks UNknown88! Patience is like a muscle. It's oddly trainable, but can be frustrating when it's being trained 😂 I appreciate your comment!
Thank you for watching everyone! What current (historical) sewing projects are you working on? I can't wait to share part 2 with you all on June 24th 😊(P.S. Subtitles are now available)
Absolutely stunning result 😍 truly worth all the effort (and darts!) and Halloween colours are allowed every day of the year ;)
Thank you, Lilja! 💜 And you're right, autumnal/Halloween colours are always allowed 😉
This is pure ART. I actually teared up a few times, because the process and the result was just so beautiful and made me think about my ancestors and the way people used to make clothes, compared to our times. They made them with love and care. Now it's all ruined and the whole fashion industry is so dirty and evil. It makes me sad. You inspire to start making my own clothes too. ❤
The result is so utterly charming Vasi, the care and love poured into this bodice really shows!
You should absolutely be proud, Your craftsmanship is astounding. Sewing this incredibly complex bodice is so inspiring.
And the measurements part, that made me emotional and gave me goosebumps. This video is so wholesome ❤️💯
Awww thank you, your comment made me tear up a little. I really appreciate you calling it wholesome, as that is one of the best compliments 💕
@@VBirchwood You're Welcome, praising talent is my pleasure ☺️
@@EXO-L45 you're so sweet ☺️
It turned out gorgeous! The color is beautiful, can´t wait to see the complete outfit. Oh and I am currently sewing a 16th century embroidered shirt and also a red kirtle.
Thank you, Analuna! (love your name) Both of your projects sound amazing! 😊 I hope they're going well.
You work so bloody hard! Looks amazing x
Thank you so much dear! xx
Ohhhh my goodness this is so gorgeous!!! Definitely worth all of that effort
Thank you so much!! I definitely do agree (though during the process it sometimes didn't feel like it 😂)
Amazing attention to detail. Gorgeous bodice.
Thank you very much Grotto 😊
Wow! The side closure is really interesting and I love your embroidery. One of my favourite things about Victorian bodices is the multiple panels for the back. They allow for a closer fit and the seam lines help the illusion of a smaller waist even if your waist isn't particularly small. Which is a big help for my not-so-hourglass shape, lol. Beautiful job! I really admire the way you tackle big projects even though you're a novice. I'm still working up my confidence to make a fully lined and boned bodice/jacket with sleeves a year and a half into my sewing journey.
Thank you, Natalie! 😊 I agree, the multiple back panels are such a lovely and customisable/personal touch. They really do help to further certain silhouettes and illusions, as you say. I think tackling big projects naturally feels really uncomfortable, but I always say it's beneficial to seek discomfort (even if things don't pan out how we expected them to). Everyone has their own pace of course though, which is totally okay and part of the beauty of a craft like sewing ❤️ I believe in you, you can do it!! What projects are you working on at the moment?
@@VBirchwood I just finished some modern tops (I like to wear a mashup of contemporary and historical clothing) so I'm in between projects. I'm either going to remake my corset (for the millionth time) or start on a bustle gown bodice that I've been intimidated by lol. Either way the first step will be to get my sister to measure me correctly, I don't think I've been getting the numbers quite right on my own 😁
Yesss great idea with having someone help measure! It’s a massive game changer as certain things (like back measurements) are extremely difficult alone. I say go for the bustle gown but that’s just my opinion 😉 regardless, I hope your projects go well! 😊
The construction of the front darts (and the construction overall) was quite interesting to see. Best of luck with the darts on the skirt!
Thank you Erica! It's been a challenge so far, but I'm excited for everyone to see the final result!
Looks great! I know nothing about historical fashion or general fashion but I love your passion. Keep going!
Thank you so much, your comment is greatly appreciated 😊
looks incredible!!!! redoing those sleeves just to get the shoulders right,,, ugh! you’re dedication👏🏻🤌🏻🙌🏻 can’t wait to see the completed outfit!!!!!💕
Thank you Jae!! 💕 I just couldn't set it aside without getting the sleeves right. It just had to be done, even if it was a massive redirection 😂 Can't wait for you to see the whole thing!
I've just recently found your chanel and i absolutely love it!!!
Thank you, Martyna! 😊🥰
Also, welcome to the channel!
❤️❤️❤️ All of your hard work is just amazing and I love your bodice. I cannot wait for the skirt and finished project video! ❤️❤️❤️ Well done!
Thank you, Susan! ❤️ I can't wait for you to see it xx
Wow! Hand stitched. Yer amazing..
Thank you Balu!!
I am so very excited to see the completed outfit!
Hehehe thank you! I am so excited to show you all the completed look 💕
Absolutely lovely.
I appreciate all the beautiful & painstaking hand stitching you did. As I watched the video, I hand stitched down some seams on a doll dress I am making, (felling, catch stitch & running stitch). I did about 14" of stitches, in total.
Thank you! I hope your doll dressmaking is going well 😊
@@VBirchwood thank you, yes, great so far. I believe two pockets & a closure & I am done.
the creativity and skills developed by such a beautiful garment is beyond expectations. This color looks so lovely against your skin tone. Love from Canada
Thank you so much! 😊
Congratulations!
Thank you! 😊
Wonderful work! This doesn’t look like an easy job at all. The embroidery is beautiful and the fit is near perfect.
Thank you so much! Your words are very much appreciated!
Really gorgeous! And you did such a great job too! Keep up the excellent work. I look forward to your next video.
Thank you so much! My next one will be out September 2nd 🥰
You do such beautiful work. there are no words....
Thank you 🥰
Ahhh...the ol' "biting off more than we can chew" issue. And it's even better when we >know< that's exactly what we're doing, right? ;-) ...I'll be doing that in 2-3 months. However, I think this is absolutely beautifully done, Lady! Methinks maybe you knew more than you thought you did. Can't wait to see the full ensemble! Good luck!
Thanks Bonnie! Good luck on your projects as well 😊
Simply gorgeous! And your ambition and adventurousness is inspiring.
Thank you, Neartmhor! 🥰
The many-pieced back of it is obviously stunning, but the front with just the darts? That is so cleverly constructed! I'm always a bit amazed when something as 2D as a single piece of fabric suddenly becomes 3D. The darts were worth it...
Thank you! I 100% agree. It was so cleverly constructed, whoever designed this original pattern. It isn't often that you see darts becoming the centre piece or artistic focus of a garment, but especially in this case, it works so, so well!
I absolutely AD😍RE your brooch!
Wow - this is amazing! Definitely worth all the hard work!
Thank you Natalie!! ❤️
It looks absolutely lovely! I adore those buttons on the terracotta! They look so striking! Those sleeves looked like a pain but turned out wonderfully! I can't wait to see the skirt video! Happy sewing!
Thank you, Amber! Happy sewing as well 😄 the sleeves were my least favourite part (pretty much everyone dislikes sleeves anyways, don’t they? 😂) I’m very excited for you to see the grand reveal in a couple of weeks!
Beautiful job!!!
Thank you 😊
I love everything about this. I’m a big fan of the orange and black combo and the whole dark academia genre. Beautiful work vasi!
Thank you, Heather! It's great to hear from you 😊
Well done! Lovely color, one of my favorites.
Thank you! Terracotta is such an underrated and beautiful colour 😊
@@VBirchwood I quite agree!
Amazing!
Thank you, Shevuan! 😊
Very pretty 😀
So beautiful.
Thank you very much!!
Great job 🖤
Спасибо Андрюша🥰
Wow its so impressive!!
Thank you! 😊
Absolutely amazing and beautiful make. I'm so impressed. The feather stitched darts are so well spaced, too. I never seem to be able to do that.
One thing you don't mention is carefully and very thoroughly pressing each seam into place the instant it's completed. If this is something you don't do, you might try it. It seems like a formality when learning the craft, but makes the final work sing.
Thanks Julie! I do indeed press and iron everything. I just have a big lighting set up when I film and so it’s challenging to iron on camera and takes a lot more time to set up so I leave some bits out just for brevity and convenience sake 😊
Very NICE!! 😊
Thank you 😊
Beautiful! Love your channel (I've subscribed : )
Thank you 😊
I love the fact that you do so much handsewing!! Clothing becomes so much more valuable. Anyway, I would love to see a video about your handwork, one which shows your beginning hand stitching, such as seams and buttonholes, and what you do now. I am sure it is quite better now, as time and practice always help in any art. As well, could you go through the inner work and appearance of the inside of your dresses, etc.? To me, that is one of the most fascinating things of hand-done clothing. Meanwhile, I am enjoying your videos and look forward to them!
Thank so much Naomi! I release a video called "Everything I've Sewn in My First Year Sewing" a few weeks ago, where I go through showing the insides of many of the garments I've made over the course of the last year 😊 Hopefully that's sort of in line with what you're talking about. I typically will post some update photos as well on Instagram of close-ups of buttonholes and things like that!
@@VBirchwood Thanks! I will definitely look at the video you reference.
@@nmd1211 I hope you enjoy it 😊
@@VBirchwood I did!
Wow. I could never xD
Props to you tho, it looks amazing
Just too much work for such a small garment? (It was honestly so much work 😂) thank you very much Justyna!😊
FACTS:
YOU ARE SO TALENTED!
The details at the front are *chefs kisses* *-* And i might give hand sewing a try because the sewing machine of my step mother is really REALLY old and i dont like her (the sm) very much.
Thank you, Pati! 🥰 the part in the parentheses made me audibly laugh 😂 I’m glad you clarified lol. Definitely do give hand sewing a try, it’s so relaxing! (Unless you have a tight deadline for something, then you have to sew like the wind haha). If you need to learn any of the hand sewing stitches, I have a video on my channel actually that teaches you the main ones for historical projects 😊
@@VBirchwood Gonna check that out right away
I hope you enjoy it and it’s helpful 😊
Wow. Just, wow.
Thank you, Rachel 😊
It is an interesting detail that the front is longer than the back. I haven't seen something like that before.
Great eye for noticing it! I have a theory that the suit was potentially one that was reworked from a prior bustle gown, as the skirt still has a little bit of what is left of a bustle in the back, and you see these sort of tabs on 1880s bustles. So perhaps, the dressmaker was trying to modernise the gown to fit the aesthetics of 1890 a bit better.
Wonderful. Belle création. Félicitations.
Merci beaucoup!!
Hello,
I hope you are doing wonderfully. I just came across your channel today. I began watching the basic sewing of historical clothing. After watching you work on this walking suit, I have to ask you. How long have you been hand sewing at this highly difficult and technical level? I know you said in the video I started with, that you have been around sewing since you were young. You said in this video, you have been sewing for 9 months. Did you do pattern sewing or simple designs for manyyears in the years prior? You are incredibly talented, I am honestly awed by your skill ! You also have a brilliant teaching style. I will be happily following your channel with wonder and joy! If you can keep sharing the little shops you purchase some of your quality products from, it would be lovely and help small businesses, as well as all of us. I am ordering thread now, thanks to you.
With hope for your happiness,
Audri
Hi Audri!
Thanks for the compliments. As for how long I’ve sewn, it’s been since August 2020. My mother and grandmother both sew, so when I was a kid I could sew a straight stitch, but I never actually made anything with it. I just knew the basic stitch. Aside from that, I hadn’t done any sewing (and could barely even sew on a button) until August 2020, when I decided to jump into things and just go for it. I’m all self taught, just through resources here on the internet, which is part of why I also like to pass on useful information, because I assume others are in the same position and would like additional tips/techniques/products/etc. Mulberry Silks is great and I also recommend DeVere Yarns in the U.K. They have a silk embroidery floss which works beautifully as a hand sewing thread, and they have it available in 5 different thicknesses I believe, which is slightly more variety than Mulberry. I usually get the middle weight one for hand sewing, as I like my thread a bit thicker. DeVere Yarns are also a small business 😊 Let me know if there are any other U.K. based products you’re looking for, and I can tell you where I usually buy mine (as I try to buy from small businesses whenever possible).
I greatly appreciate your support!
I hand sew most of what I make. Everything except long straight seams and the bottom hems.
Those are definitely the most monotonous 😊
UUUW, where did you get "Patterns of Fashion 2"?! I'm still waiting for it to be re-published by the school of historical dress. But I guess, you can still find older versions if you know where to look... Sadly, I'm still really bad at looking in the right places. :-D
My current project are a pair of 1780's stays, using a Redthreaded-pattern. I just finished the mock-up and ordered all necessary materials. This is so exciting! And your video made me think how nice it would be to make a completely handsewn pair of stays.
Let's see if I'm still convinced of that when it comes to stitching all the boning chanals... ;-)
It was actually my mother’s old copy and she gave it to me a couple of years ago! (It’s from the 90s I believe). The new printed version I’ve heard is going to have colour images, which will be nice for being able to see the actual components of the garments in the sketches because at the moment it can be tricky to figure out certain parts with just the black and white line sketches. Your stays sound like a lovely project! Although boning channels are tedious, I think they’re worth it, as hand sewing in general can be such a therapeutic process 😊 goodluck with the sewing of your stays!
@@VBirchwood Thanks :-) Yes, I enjoy sewing by hand quite a lot, also because I'm still not that good with the mashine and find it sometimes really nerv wracking. My mum used to sew, too (und she still does, just not as much as when I was a kid) but she isn't into historical sewing, so I can't inherite anything on that account :'D. I guess, I'll have to wait until the book is getting publiched. But that's all right. It's just like with hand sewing: good things sometimes just take a lot of time and patience. :-)
My mother mostly only sews contemporary stuff as well! But for some reason she had a few historical sewing books 😊 which I of course took hehe. Machines can be really scary can’t they?! And yes very true that sometimes these things take time 😉 I’ve heard though the books should be getting published pretty soon, fingers crossed it won’t be much longer.
The bodice looks beautiful! Thank you for sharing your sewing journey!
Since you only used wool in the back pieces, is it warmer in the back than the front? I want to sew with wool soon, so I wonder how warm it really is compared to other fibers.
How is the sleeve mobility?
To answer your question, I'm sewing a gored skirt using a walking skirt pattern from YT channel "no more twist."
I look forward to seeing the completed suit!
Thank you for your compliments and comment, An!
As for the wool question, it is definitely a warm bodice, I find that a lot of heat tends to escape from the back, so I typically like to interline bodices with a thin wool only for the back, though sometimes the front as well, depending on what might be okay with the bulk. Wool is honestly one of my favourite materials, and I find that even in weather in the 20s Celsius, it is still very easy to wear, especially because there can be so much variety between wool types. So I would highly recommend the material.
The sleeve mobility is perfect and I have full mobility. I always try to make my sleeves this way, because I actually wear these garments daily, so I want to wear creations with a more practical edge that I will actually feel comfortable in in the long term. As well for the elbow, I took out a little from the seam allowance there just to provide a little bit more mobility, which is a great trick to keep your arm bends comfortable.
Your sewing project sounds lovely and I hope it all goes very well! (Thanks for that other channel name as well, I’ll have to check them out). Looking forward to revealing the final ensemble!
@@VBirchwood Thank you for answering my questions! I didn't know wool flannel can be worn in moderate weather, thanks for that.
Full mobility sounds great! Did you need to modify Arnold's pattern (besides the elbows), or did the pattern have mobility built-in?
Thanks, I hope my finished garment turns out okay!
No problem! You might like no more twist's tea-dyeing video and general calm vibes.
My pleasure! I’m not sure if everyone could handle wool flannel is very very warm weather, but I certainly find that personally it is great for moderate weather as it breathes really well and has natural anti microbial properties.
Aside from the tiny bit of seam allowance at the elbow, I didn’t have to make a single alteration to the pattern, which was incredibly lucky! So yep, great mobility in the sleeves from the get-go.
I’m sure it will turn out great! Every project is a learning experience as it is, so that alone makes it worth it I think😊
Oooo tea-dying, sounds like fun!
@@VBirchwood Wow, it's like you found your historical garment twin! That'd be amazing if the skirt pattern fits right, too. I'll stay tuned to find out!
I can tell you the answer now if you’d like? (Don’t want to spoil it for you if you’d like to be surprised 😉)
Para que te quede perfecto, plancha los trozos que vallas cociendo.
I did, they just wrinkle very easily again because I was working with them a lot 😊