Warranty advice - if you are going to do your own oil changes, keep a folder with receipts for the oil, filter. Document the date and mileage. I usually have mine done by the dealer just in case there is ever an issue. After warranty, have at it yourself.
If you do your own oil changes, use a genuine oem oil filter, thats the first thing dearships look for in the event of engine trouble involving a warranty claim no mater what the issue is with the engine.
I don't trust any dealerships after having experience with plaza Hyundai in Brooklyn. It's supposed to be a routine oil change on my brand-new ionic 2021 plug-in hybrid at 6000 miles. First and very important oil change. I left my car in the shop and after 3 hours got it back. I regret not checking the oil level right after there. When I checked the oil level at home, my car was overfilled with oil a LOT!🤬 I decided to bring the vehicle to my mechanic to drain extras and investigate. I watched the whole process from start to end and recorded it on my phone! The discovery was SHOKing to me because the Plaza Hyundai dealer didn't Haking change the oil at all - it still was my old burned oil! They just added a quarter on a TOP and was done there, scumbags! They also didn't change the oil filter! 👈🤬 I took an oil sample to a laboratory for analysis and got results to confirm my findings. I can confirm and sign under everything I wrote but will only reveal it to a Hyundai investigation team! Dealers like Plaza Hyundai deserve to be doomed and out of business! I write it here because I know they are going to respond with "Sir, please give us you order number so we could investigate and punish a Bad boy (read as Poor Boy) technician. Bla-bla-bla"👈😡 The fact is... I believe most Hyundai dealerships purposely destroy cars and engines the way it happened to me to keep them busy and get big dollars. I say be very suspicious of this and all dealerships! God bless you all. Stay away from Plaza Hyundai dealer. You can buy a car there but NEVER EVER SERVICE it there! I warned you. Peace out. 🇺🇲✊️
Yep I bought the oil from Amazon so the receipt is digital and I have the service invoice showing the oil filter and washer were replaced. I will absolutely document everything.
I'm glad I found your video. I plan on getting an Elantra N in a few months and this is something I wouldn't have considered being a concern, but having the right oil viscosity in your engine, especially a performance based turbo engine, is kind of a big deal. Thanks for sharing this.
So sorry that happens to people. My fear is when the car has a real issue. I heard they try every trick in the book to avoid warranty work. I also heard the dealership experience was one of the reasons people are so down on Hyundai/Kia. Good luck to you. Hope things work out.
@@n-power-automotive hopefully, even with free oil changes I wouldn't do it. They used 5w20 and messed up my drain bolt so I had a small leak. Just do it myself now with peace of mind
You are 100% Right as the consumer. These Vehicles are not cheap and if it calls for 0w 30 then that's what should be in it to protect the longevity and equity. They're just like oh you're still in warranty. Well what about when the warranty ends?
I own my own shop and I know for a fact the 0w30 shell/pennzoil is not readily available as I’m dealing with that right now. But I don’t agree with the dealer using a different grade of oil when Hyundai has has issues with their engines using oil/ burning oil and a customer loses an engine due to this gdi and turbo shit they’re running in these cars.
I had a 2018 Elantra GT Sport. My experience at Hyundai dealers is why I will never buy another Hyundai. My car died on the side of the interstate. It was towed to Oxmoor Hyundai. They kept it for 2 weeks, and "couldn't find anything wrong". The dealer offered loaners, but never had one for me until like 3 days before they gave the car back. They were horrible at updating me on the situation. Car still didn't run right when I got it back. Did some research and it's widely known that Hyundai has issues with their coils. Tried to take it back, but they wouldn't do anything because they "couldn't find anything" last time it was in. Didn't believe me that it was still running rough. Ended up having to buy new MSD coils myself, and the car ran like new after that. Blind spot detection went out like 3 times in the car. Bachman was better to deal with, but still not great. I've never been happier to get rid of a car. I will never buy another Korean car.
I BROUGHT A HYUNDIA SANTA CRUZ 4 MONTHS AGO. AT 300 MILES IT QUIT RUNNING. I GOT IT BACK LAST WEEK AND IT QUIT AGAIN AFTER 50 MILES. FOR A $49.126 VEHICLE IT'S A RIPOFF.
Just stumbled on your video. I have had Hyundai Elantra's, Kia Forte's as company cars since 2005. Personally, I owned a Sorento and a Sonata. In the 2005 era, tough powertrains cheap bodies. Customer service was top notch. Then Kia and Hyundai got incredibly better around the 2013-ish time. Customer service stayed top notch as the cars became top notch. By 2017, the shine was coming off the diamond. Customer service started getting bad at all the dealers I tried. Then the recalls, fires, Theta motor debacle, burning oil etc... the dealer and customer service experience went to hell. I loved this last Sonata! But I had to unload it for peace of mind. My service and customer experience kept getting worse. Once I lost faith in the competence of the dealer and it became clear Hyundai / Kia would pick and choose what defect they would stand behind, it was time to go. Truly a sad thing. I remember when Hyundai showed up to America with the Excel. I was proud of how far they came. Then I was angered at how low they stooped.
Same here, owned Elantras and Sonatas but after that Theta engine debacle I wouldn’t buy another one. Hyundai/Kia dealerships here in FL are sleazier than the normal dealer too.
Wow so you have a lot of experience with the brand. I’m hoping, despite the DCT recall, that there won’t be any issues that I’ll have to use the warranty for, but you never do know. Out of curiosity, what brand vehicle do you own now?
@@n-power-automotive My personal vehicle now, is a Ram 1500. I traded in my Sonata and Nissan Frontier on it. The market started to finally tip back into favor, and I made a move. I loved my Sonata, but was more worried about it's reliability and safety than I was my 2010 Frontier with 119,000 miles. So, I traded them both for the Ram.
Since you asked about everybody’s thoughts. I’ve been working on all my family cars for 25years as a hobby. I just bought our first Hyundai for our daughter 16th birthday and for the first time in my life I saw 3 weights of oil mentioned in the manual and the the one on the cap is number two choice in the manual. Never had that range with bmw or Toyota or Nissan. That said I would never sweat over 0w-20 vs 0w-30, I’d definitely not drain. I agree with everyone you talked to on the phone, the car will be just fine. But I understand being anal about certain things. Next time specifically request the weight on the cap to make you feel better. I would too. That Quacker brand recommendation in my manual though, I like Mobil-1…but again I would not drain a one time Quacker…
Thanks for the comment. This video was over a year ago and since that incident I have been changing the oil in it myself and keeping records of everything. It probably would have been fine, but I am anal and prefer to know I have the called for weight in there so if I do ring it out and have fun driving it like it was intended, I wouldn’t have to worry about it.
Thanks for this post! I recently had my first oil change and didn’t even think about the type of oil and assumed the dealer would do the right thing. I looked at the receipt and they had used 5W 30. I went back to the dealer with the manual in hand and showed them that it should be 0W30. No questions asked they took the car back right there and did the change for me with the right oil. Thank you!!!
I didn’t even think about this. They have used 0-20 so much in my car for the first year and half. I’m at 11K miles now. I’ve gotten my change every 3 months though
I was gonna buy a kona N, and heard about the DCT issues it's been having. Also the stories about the dealerships not honoring warranties, so I stuck with Mazda and got a mazda 3 turbo ! I love it
Kinda sounds like my experience! I, too, was looking at a Kona N. Didn’t fall in love with it when I test drove. Tried an Elantra N too. Then I discovered the CX-50 turbo. Mazda hadn’t even been on my radar. I test drove one and fell in love. Im extremely happy with my decision. Mazda is underrated!
@@clutch7366 definitely underrated brand. These are engines are very reliable as well and the dealership won't give u the runaround. Enjoy ur new mazda my bro ! Cheers 🍻
great decision im a mechanic at a hyundai dealer the dct's are pretty weak and jank the car around pretty bad about 20k in.. it sucks but these hyundai guys accept it
@@sambeagle72 not sure why these guys would go for the dct on a car like this. car seems like to much fun to skip out on the manual. im actually considering a manual mazda 3 hatch. 😅 its slow but thats fine.
I work at a Hyundai dealership service department. The only correct oil is 0W-30. Anyone looking at those sheets with multiple specs is looking at a regular Elantra and somehow doesn’t realize that the N is considered an entirely different model because of the Theta II engine and substantial chassis/suspension changes. No turbo Theta II has ever been had an oil specification for 0W-20; NA engines took 5W-20 and turbos took 5W-30 until 2019. The only Hyundais that use 0W-30 are N cars and the Theta III turbo (2.5L) engine found on some Santa Fe, Santa Cruz, and Sonata models. My dealership used to have trouble getting it, but we always used 0W-30, even if someone had to run down the street for oil and we took a loss on parts cost. We now stock a 55-gallon drum or two because the number of cars coming through with that spec is starting to climb. As far as Shell Helix vs Quaker State goes, Shell owns Quaker State so they’re literally the same thing. Any 0W-20/30 oil will be full synthetic regardless.
Currently at a dealer getting my first oil change. After 2 and a half hours of waiting I had the exact same problem you did. They used 5w-20 synthetic blend instead of 0w-30 full synthetic. Thanks to you after the change I checked the oil and caught it. Went back in and thankfully one guy here seamed to be aware that it's supposed to use different oil than what they gave me and he said they would take care of it. I would have never Checked had I not come across your video. When I first asked if they used the right oil, they said it's the oil they use on all the hyundai's. I said but this one isn't like all the other hyundai's it doesn't use the same oil. It's not listed anywhere that it's supposed to use any other oil. She said it's fine it won't hurt anything. I went and looked up the skew for the oil and saw it was 5w-20 and went back and just simply asked why they didn't use the oil that supposed to be in the car. They are getting it squared away currently and didn't put up a fuss. I'm just glad someone here knew what it was supposed to be. So thank you for alerting me to checking this. I don't fault the techs here I fault hyundai for not educating them better to be aware of the differences in the vehicles. It's not just another hyundai. Mine was the first one they had seen in person. Which again isn't their fault but it doesn't help them do their job.
@@n-power-automotive well update. They still put in the wrong oil. They didn't have 0W-30 so they used 5W-30. They showed me a recommendation chat they get sent from hyundai with a list of approved oils to use for each model and the Elantra N wasn't even on the list. So they went off the Veloster N which also says 0W-30 but can use 5W-30. I called the dealer I bought it from and checked if they had the correct oil and just scheduled a service for there. About an hour away but I'll do it just for the peace of mind that the correct oil was used
@@michaelwilburn1001 well 5W-30 is a much much more suitable alternative than the 5W-20 they first put in yours (or the 0W-20 the put in mine). I may actually switch over to 5W-30 my next oil change because technically it should give a little bit better protection in the long run. I’m glad at least they did some extra digging for you. Can’t say the same for my dealership. Thanks for the update!
In my car (non-Hyundai) the manufacturer recommends 5w/30 synthetic but I can use 5w/40 if it meets factory recommendations (which it does). No worries. Your Hyundai will be just fine. If you live in a snow belt, the lower winter number will be a better choice. You well know the regular oil changes is the key to good maintenance and health of your automobile.
One thing to keep in mind. Manuals they print in bulk in advance. Latest recommendations can come later from manufacturer. Manufacturers are known to issue to TSB to update recommended oil. Hyundai has done that before in a TSB(i can't recall the model and year). I would have taken a copy of their sheet and email from Hyundai and filed it as proof.
The Hyundai Customer Care agent read the manual to me and it didn’t match at all. If they did revise the manual, you’d think they’d communicate that with owners. I haven’t heard anyone say they received anything saying the oil specs have changed.
Yea they changed the Sparkplug model on my 2.0L turbo 3 times in 8 years. Each time recommending a cooler step. And My oil cap says 0w30(40 weight recommended), but it can take 0w20 to 20w50 according to the manual lol
It’s pretty common for changes to be made post publishing of the manual. I experienced something similar with my BMW M3 where the 2015 oil manuals called for a different grade than 2016-2018 models. The trend is usually going down to a thinner grade for the sake of fuel economy smh
I think you did the right thing in going by the oil cap and manual to get the right oil in the car. I've read and heard that modern engines are a lot pickier about that than they used to be. Also, I've read about engine problems in Hyundai vehicles so I think you should be very picky when it comes to service.
I have never ever ever ever taken my vehicles to dealerships for oil changes. Over priced and under served is the motto at most dealerships . Find a reliable, honest working privately owned shop to do your work. Oil change at dealership is 98.00, at my guys shop 69.00. Same oil, better oil filter and no appointment needed. Also don’t have to wait three hours for a damn oil change that takes only twenty minutes. They check tire pressure and adjust if needed, check and top up other fluids ( brake, washer and rad ) and inform me if they added to the brake or radiator so I can be aware if they are in need of service or repair. Trust me those big dealership buildings aren’t paid for by the profits from selling you the vehicle, they come from profits in the service bays.👍🇨🇦
Understood but I have free service for 3 years, 36,000 miles. I’m not paying for $100 oil changes at the dealership. They’re free. If that wasn’t given to be I’d absolutely be changing the oil myself.
If they want to avoid warranty issues, going with a thinner oil than recomended does not seem like a very smart move. 20 grade oil for a performance engine seem way too thin. 20 is usually for ultra low friction engines for fuel eficiency, the oposite of the engine on that model
Man, I'm sorry to hear this. The service at Rowe Hyundai in Westbrook Maine has been excellent for me. Had the initial oil change at 1K miles, 0-30 W, full synthetic Mobil1 for $15/quart. When I got the 6xth Element catch can, they only charged me $45 to install. Heck, even had my winter tires and rims delivered to their shop, getting them installed Monday. Never had a bad experience with the Elantra N or my 2013 Sonata.
Maybe I’ll take the short drive from TN to ME next time lol! I had a feeling the dealership I bought my EN from was gonna be this way. I could tell by the lack of knowledge of the salesmen that they didn’t know much about the EN, so I assumed they hadn’t sold many so the service department didn’t see many for service. The thing I learned from calling Hyundai Customer Care is all Hyundai dealerships are independently owned and operated, so it’s sort of a gamble which will be competent or not. Hopefully the dealership closer to me will be a better experience next time. Thanks for the comment!
I use non-synthetic in my BMW 335i twin turbo. I stay within 5 viscosity range. I use 5-30 or 0-40. Normal driving condition is fine as far as I know. 178k miles. Still running strong.
I had nothing but good experiences at my hyundai dealership. Friendly, nice, quick, and they always check for any software updates and recalls for me even if I don't ask first. I think it depends on the dealer. I've been to some horrible Toyota and bmw dealers.
Couple of things that are mind-blowing about this. 1. That NO ONE in the service department caught this (it’s obv. a special performance car - they should have recognized that immediately, and realized that it was going to have some service needs that are out of the ordinary). 2. That the service manager, doubled down on stupid, and did not just immediately admit the mistake, reassure you that no damage had been done, but offer to immediately drain and then refill with the correct oil. 3. I can’t believe that no one, including the rep that you talk to on the phone, recognized that, being a performance car, this engine will benefit, from a thicker viscosity of oil. Good on you for making the decision to take care of your own oil changes now. What oil are you using? I believe the Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 is the exact same thing as Shell Helix 0W-30, just re-labeled. Another great choice, now actually available on the shelf at Walmart for less than 30 bucks per jug, is Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30. It does make me happy that Hyundai recognizes the benefit of a thicker viscosity oil in a high-performance turbocharged four-cylinder. Unlike Subaru, which has now gone to a recommendation of 0W-20 in the newer WRXs (my 2016 called for 5W-30).
Thank you! I used Pennzoil Platinum 0W-30 Euro for a few oil changes, but then discovered Mobil1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy which meets all the Hyundai oil requirements. Like you said, it’s available at Walmart and very reasonably priced. I believe the Mobil 1 ESP is a little different and doesn’t meet the same requirements.
I’m the same way! Put the right oil or the recommended oil per your manual. These dealerships cut corners and charge you an arm and a leg for everything. Good for you
Agreed - They keep trying to push off the oil changes on my Velo N, and I just had my HPFP die and that was pulling teeth to get that done. They kept me at an arms length for EVERYTHING. Said I had to auth a diagnosis charge if it wasn't a warrantied issue, couldn't get to me for a few days b/c they have so many cars, and wouldn't give me a loaner or offer to cover a rental until they confirmed it was a warrantied issue. I already made an appointment for the following day since it was acting funny before it died but had to tow it in before the appt. The dealer said, and I quote, "The appointment is for bringing the car in, not looking at it." I had to cry on Twitter and speak to corporate for them to look at it on my scheduled day, and it still took me 3 days to get my car back - and they disconnected my dashcam while they had it and gave it to me w/ no gas in it. Absolutely maddening. Corporate did comp me a bit but I'm still never going to that dealer for anything.
Dang that’s an absolutely crappy experience. At least it sounds like you got some retribution from your ordeal, but it still sucks to have to bitch and moan to get them to take notice.
I think this is was happened to my 2021 Hyundai Sonata limited. They wouldn’t let me get an oil change until 15,000 miles. The mileage was at 12,300 at the time but it was already driving strangely as if it needed as oil change. Fast forward to 14,820 miles and my car is completely dead when I go to start it the next morning 😑. I though it was a battery issue but they’re telling me it’s not the battery and something else is wrong but they’re not sure what!! My car steering wheel began to shake at high speeds, weird clicking sound in the dashboard console, and a drag when pressing the gas. You can’t even get an oil change earlier if you want to because most oil change places don’t have the new Hyundai filter!! Sigh, at least they gave me a loaner in the mean time.
I’m a Sonata N line owner. I’ve been doing my own oil changes since new. I keep a detailed record in my notes and take pictures of every service I perform. I’ve never had a single issue with my car, but if I do I sure hope Hyundai won’t give me trouble about it. I’m only at 20k, but I already worry. Super fun sedan, but I don’t get the peace of mind that I had when I owned my Accord.
I’ve started doing my own after this experience. I’m keeping receipts of my oil and filter purchases and I track my maintenance in an app, so I’m hoping for the same if any issues arrive. I just hit 10,000 miles today and no problems so far. I think the SNL is an awesome car, too. Much more comfortable and mature than the EN. I was tempted to trade it for one a few months back, but I was surprised it didn’t have much more room than the EN. In fact the rear seat legroom seemed less, I’m guessing because the front seats are some much thicker on the SNL it takes away some space in the back. That was a deal breaker for me.
I have a '22 DCT with 9,000 miles. You are correct that Elantra "N"'s are rare. My local dealer has not seen more than a dozen of all types of N cars and the service manager didn't know there was a difference between the N Line and the N. Yikes! I normally don't trust dealers anyway but I decided that, since there's a 10 /100,00 warranty on the drivetrain that I would let the dealer do the maintenance. The statement from my first service (at 6k miles) states 0-30 oil so I'm OK with that but it doesn't state the brand. Of course the mech could have filled it with Wesson for all I know. It's sad there's such a disconnect between Hyundai corporate and their dealers.
what's scary is you don't even know what they're actually putting in They could say they're putting in 030 and they could be putting something else in!!
Exactly the approach I took with having the free service done. I hate leaving my car with techs not knowing exactly what they’re doing, too. Let’s hope they actually put in 0W-30. It’s 99.9% likely it’s not Shell , but maybe it’s Quaker State.
Sorry you had to go through this. I can relate as a former Ford SVT and ST owner, experiencing the same dealership BS over the oil weight/type issue every time I got the cars serviced at the dealership (when they were out of warranty, bye bye dealerships!). Buying a specialty performance model from a mainstream brand can be, unfortunately, an exercise in frustration when it comes to service. Enjoy your Elantra N--cool car!
Ford is very very bad--they will not honor any work on saleens or shelbies and I will never buy any product from Ford again in the near future unless they really clean up.To test Ford last year--I pasted and copied the VIN number from a Super Snake that i was actually thinking of buying.I called the ford dealer near me and claimed I had a code for a repair on the engine--real code but simply made it up to test them and the run around began to we do not have Shelby trained techs to they have to submit the repair to ford corporate and get an answer in 2 weeks.I said to them is this how you treat someone who laid down 100k on their products only to be run around with the first problem.I also owned a saleen years ago that would not pass emiisions --so I already knew they might play these games and it was the same thing--only a decade later and I was not dumb enough to buy the super snake.If you do not believe me its simple--just look for a saleen or shelby on autotrader--Ford service has no clue who owns what---tell em you have some engine problem or better yet a problem with the supercharger and watch what happens.Nearest saleen dealer to "supposedly" try and fix my saleen was 2 states away and would have cost over a 1k to ship it--finally just sold the saleen and told myself enough with Ford.
Thanks! At least it’s refreshing to know it’s not just Hyundai, but regardless it’s so frustrating spending good money on a new car only to have them not follow what the manual calls for. Just to save a few bucks.
@@n-power-automotive I think finding reputable mechanics is not easy in todays world ! An Elantra N is rarely seen at the dealership so learning how to DIY is a great skill. You learn more about the car & getting underneath it you see what is happening. If you plan on keeping the car investing in the tools to keep it running might initially be an expense but in the long run pays off because you know more about the car & NOBODY is going to take care of your car better if your involved in the maintenance. With CZcams videos today its an easy way to save $$$$ with any mechanical skill or want to. BTW Harbor Freight has upped its game & recently been going there to expand the tool box. I don't go below mid level though.
@@ag4allgood absolutely! If you look through the videos on my channel you’ll see I do a lot of my own wrenching. I did 99% of the modifications on my previous car myself. I have always done that. The only reason I took the Elantra N in for an oil change is because the offered free maintenance for 3 years/36,000 miles. I figured why turn that down? But now I know why!
Sounds like the one time I tried to save $80 bucks and took my Lexus LS460 to a Toyota dealership for an oil change, 4 hours later the wrong oil, plus 2 quarts short and my car was taking nearly 30 seconds for the engine to start. Lesson learned. Vehicle didn’t start correctly until I took it in to Lexus for another oil change.
Depends on the climate you live but you're not wrong. Keep oil and filter receipts in a folder with photos of containers and keep changing it yourself. My manual for a different car (2.5T) calls for 5w30 but I live in the deep south where during the summer it stays above 85 degrees F throughout the whole day. So for me, a 5w 40 would work much better.
My experience with Hyundai so far has me considering selling and going back to a VW GTI. I enjoy the car a lot but man the difference in service is just astonishing
No man lol the VW dealer I went to never saw a GTI before and treated my car like a standard golf with "aftermarket " mods lmao! I was like wtf you morons!
I have had 2 Hyundai vehicles, and ended taking them both to other garages than the dealer when they needed service after having basically the same experience that you did with the dealer's service department.I highly doubt that I will ever buy another Hyundai again, especially since there are many, many stories going around about how Corporate Hyundai tries to weasel out of its warranty obligations, and about large numbers of engine failures with recent Hyundai cars. Too bad - they used to build good cars & have a good reputation for service.
I wonder what went wrong? They are the 3rd or 4th largest vehicle manufacturer now. Why are they going backward when they finally started getting a better reputation?!!
Yep, and I have done that on all my previous cars, but when Hyundai offers you free service wouldn’t you take advantage of that, too? But with that said, I’ll probably just do it myself going forward.
As if this isn't bad enough, you have to hear this one. I just bought a Kona SEL (03-08-2023) and foolishly let them talk me into an 8 year maintenance contract saying that if I did my own oil changes it would void the warranty. When I looked it over after the fact, I was set up for normal service intervals using CONVENTIONAL OIL. The car requires 0w-20 synthetic. There is no such thing as 0w-20 conventional oil. I contacted 4 different Hyundai service departments including the place of purchase, all of which said the contract was in error. Despite this, the finance manager who sold me the contract refused to change it stating that I could simply request synthetic at time of service and pay an extra $10-$15 each time. After a week of wasting my time back and forth, I cancelled the contract. Hard to believe.
I just viewed another YT video where a Hyundai owner, who also happens to be a technician at a Hyundai dealership, had his engine self destruct; Hyundai refuses to honor the warranty because the computer states the engine was over-revved despite the fact that it does not have a manual tranny AND the ECU is supposed to limit the maximum RPM. Bottom line: a warranty is only as good as the integrity of those behind it. I have seen too many negative reviews to ever purchase a Hyundai or Kia, despite the fact that I like their appearance.
@@n-power-automotive Looking forward to it. Scotty Kilmer, who I also follow, certainly doesn't like Kia autos, but I do not recall his comments regarding Hyundai. Do they still have the 10 year-100, 000 mile warranty standard?
Technically speaking the service manager isn't "wrong" using a different weight oil than recommended just alters it's overall properties for lubrication and they may or may not be better/worse depending on where you are and how you drive. Lower weight oils == more performance but also more wear typically and 0W-30 to OW-20 isn't the end of the world for a full-synthetic blend (which is already going to be better for engine wear). In many cases the climate dictates the oil selection; 0W-20 in a colder climate is ideal, 0W-30 in a warmer climate is ideal and considering the timing of your post it's entirely possible the tech went with the 0W-20 to better care for your vehicle. My "guess" is that it just boils down to cost and what they have in stock though, if you want oil changes done right you really got to do them yourself.
@@n-power-automotive Thinner oil overall, yes the weighted value is the cold value but compared to a 0W-30 it's a faster flowing oil due to a lower viscosity. The EN can handle it and on forums (I have a VN) most recommend it. You'll see better gas mileage, better performance, and it'll warm up a tad quicker in colder climates. My only primary concern is that the oil will wear a bit quicker, just take it in for service sooner; instead of the recommended 7500 bring it in at 5000. For daily driving though? Doubt it would do any damage; engine temps likely won't even go over 195~ in the winter... it's 86 here in Florida and I just got done with a pretty spirited drive in my VN and engine temps just barely hit 235 degrees. Oil temp was like 220. If it helps... I am running 5W-30 so it's not the recommended either.
@@n-power-automotive I live in Florida (I think I mentioned that) but it also wasn't exactly my choice; the tech at Hyundai recommended it when discussing my driving habits. 5W-30 is better suited for warmer climates, and has better protection above 212 degrees (I typically hit 220-230 on my commutes). The "normal" operating temp for an oil is 212 degrees so having a bit of cold weight helps when it's below that temp. Ie. If I am doing a trip to the grocery store and back the vehicle won't go over 200 degrees on the oil temp. Quite honestly, it's more important it's full-synthetic.
I requested 0w30 on my service request. It does not say oil weight on service papers but does say full synthetic. 5w30 is more or less used during racing, etc.. a bit more protection in heat.
I would've told the manager to document your concern on the invoice about the oil. That way if there is a warranty issue, you have it in black and white
I have sold Hyundai, and while there helped the service department to move some new cars around for recall adjustments. This when the 06 Sonata first came out. Purchased one myself, and the car is still running today, sold it to a friend. Great car. Started doing my own oil changes, and it was tough to get certain items repaired at the dealer. One was a passenger side window that got jammed, they tried to spray some lube into the window cavity, but of course that did not work. Ended up getting the parts on eBay and fixed it myself. On one dealer oil change, they forgot to tighten the drain plug. Fortunately no harm done, saw the drip and I tightened it myself. They did the serpentine belt properly, while a local mechanic lied to me and said it was the wrong part.. No, it was genuine Mobis with the Hyundai logo on it. Other than that, the car needed nothing until 130,000 miles where my friend had the oil pan changed as it was getting rusty. Hopefully your Elantra N will be as long lived. And best to stay on that 0W30 as Hyundai scrutinizes maintenance records in case of a warranty claim. Also, you may as well stick with the genuine Hyundai oil filter for the same reason.
You should change the oil, at minimum, 3,500 miles. That was recommended for my 2021 Veloster N. This is important for the turbo. Yes, go with full synthetic always. I always ran 5W30 Mobil1 full synthetic. Service writers no very little about cars and engines.
They thought your car was a base model, and surprisingly the tech still thinks 0w20 and 0w30 are the same… all bad. For old vehicles, I know if the manufacturer recommends 5w30 it’s ok to go with a 10w30 or even 10w40 in warmer areas in the summer, but this only goes for a vehicle with 180k+ on the odo.. In your case, all bad, and they should know the correct viscosity and it’s highly recommended to use the exact one needed. And if the engine gets damaged, they’ll deny responsibility.
It’s crazy to me too that they’d get it confused with a base model Elantra. I want to blame the tech, but really it’s the dealership and service managers fault.
You are absolutely correct regarding the rareness on these cars! I went through the exact same scenario as you for my first complimentary oil change. The service rep kept thinking my car was the N-Line when I told him specifically it was in fact an N. It stated N on all of the email correspondence. He even tried to tell me my change interval was every 8,000 miles. He went so far as to set up my next appointment at 16,000 miles. I said, whoa! Hold up, my car is an N, I will see you at the 12,000 mile mark. It took him a while to register what was going on and I lost all hope in this poor confused soul. On all of my previous cars I always did my own oil changes but I figured with this high-strung motor I better let the dealer do it for the 1st three years. The other decent perk is my selling dealer adds 2 more years of free oil changes.
I’m not glad you went through the same as me, but it’s nice to have confirmation I’m not the only one! I’m right there with you on all points. I’m going to stick with them doing the oil changes, but if they use 0W-20 I’ll probably still drain and refill with 0W-30. It’s crazy that dealers would know so little about a model they sell, but that’s the time we live in I guess. Thanks for the comment and all the best luck with your N!
Your engine will be fine with 8k mile oil changes that's how far I went with my hhr ss "high performance" 2.0t and at 140k miles when I sold it ran great.
@@n-power-automotive I would tell them the week before you go for your oil change appointment or when they call you for the reminder to make sure they have the right grade of oil that you want used in your car😁
@@Defy_Convention Not a good idea if it's direct injection. Direct injection causes more fuel to get passed the cylinders and into the engine oil. Fuel degrades engine oil. I would change all direct injected car engine oil every 3,000 miles, else you will see smoking coming out the exhaust when accelerating hard.(Worn piston rings to due oil dilution).
For all you Hyundai owners need to look at the recalls. The Hyundai N has a faulty oil pump that Hyundai will not cover. Your Rev limiter base off of the ecu is set to 6750 is the cutoff. What happened when the data was sent to Hyundai, it went to 8k on the rev. How is that possible if theirs a rev limiter controlled by the ecu. A Hyundai owner and technician of the vehicle. Hyundai said it will cost 18k to replace the engine. The technician did it for 13k out of his own pocket. Think twice of purchasing the new Hyundais.
My first oil change for my 2021 turbo Santa Fe at the dealer they wrote 0W-30 on the window sticker, but 5W-30 on the invoice. When I asked the manager told me they were approved by Hyundai to use 5W-30 semi synthetic due to problems sourcing the 0W-30. Since I am not in a cold climate, I don't see a big problem there, but I did only run the oil for 1,000 miles and then switched it out myself to 0W-30 synthetic, which is what I will also do next time they do a change under the included maintenance (I also change it in between the included Hyundai services). I would have changed it immediately if they had used 0-20. The worst part, though, was that they started my engine with the oil cap off and then didn't even say anything or apologize. There was oil everywhere...even up on the roof. The car had been completely detailed the day before service, too. Even after I brought it up to them, the apology was half assed.
Oh wow that’s a horrible story! I would be livid if that happened. When I first met my wife she used to take her car to Walmart to have the oil changed. She came over one day after getting it serviced there and complained about it smelling like something burning. I popped the hood and sure enough they never put the oil cap back on. People make mistakes, but I would never expect that to happen at a dealership. Unreal.
@@n-power-automotive My dashcam caught the whole thing. I should probably upload it if I haven't already (I can't remember...lol!). They sort of chuckled about it and half ass wiped a rag around, which just smeared the oil. I may actually not go back there for oil changes... haven't decided for sure yet. I'd like to for warranty purposes, but I can also just have it done elsewhere. But not at any quick lube places! Sorry your wife had that happen, too.
that's why you should do your own oil changes and keep receipts. You want some dumb kid who wants to get to lunch changing the oil on your expensive performance car ???
Just bought a 2023 Sonata SLE Plus. Thanks for sharing. I will call the service department at my dealership first and verify if they have the oil in the manual and if not, call the other dealership closest. I will also ask if I can bring my own oil and pay the service fee. Hope that eases any potential headaches for me.
Probably worth your time. I don’t know what oil viscosity the owners manual for the Sonata SEL calls for, but it’s very likely it’s something like 0W-20 or 5W-20 which are much more common than what the Elantra N calls for, but better safe than sorry. Good luck!
It happens all the time. Shops order oil by the drum, so they typically will only have very limited viscosity selection. If I was in your position, I’d just change it myself.
Problem is most dealers don't have 0w30, just buy and bring your own oil or do it yourself and keep all records. I use amsoil 0w30 in winter and 0w40 in summer.
And hence this is why oil changes should be performed at home with the good stuff. Remember that they are not the ones making the monthly payments... The bummer is that doing it like this is unfortunately not posted to the database history of the car like CarFax or AutoCheck. I just got tired of dealerships just doing a "half-ass" subpar job every time I took my car to them
Yeah that’s the kicker, you get to do it yourself so you know it’s done right, but the next owner doesn’t know. If I end up selling it myself one day I can present the receipts, but if I trade it in the dealer might give me a hard time. We’ll see.
Thanks for this. As you probably already know 0-20 weight is an emissions-mileage prerequisite. I assume the N has the 2.0 T GDI engine (Turbocharged). I would never ever use 0-20 in a turbo motor. There are a whole slew of reasons. I have owned and built 5 high performance turbo vehicles. Typically I would run 0-40 in them. They were all factory long blocks with bolt ons and or turbo modifications. I recently got a 2022 Hyundai Santa Cruz. (2.5 NA GDI). Changed the oil out at 1k miles. Used 0-20 Syn. Noticed that it was about 1/4 Qt low. No biggie. At 4500K I took it into the dealer for its first dealer oil change. After waiting half an hour with only one car in line ahead of me for service (It was now 1/2 hour past my appointment time) I was told it would take them 3 1/2 hours to do the oil change. After a few minutes speaking w the woman running service check in, I suspected that she knew absolutely nothing about automobile tech. I told her that I would just do the change myself. In changing out the oil, I noted that it was a full 1 quart low! Again, I used 0-20 full syn. At this point I have a very low confidence in Hyundai, especially after reading of a recent spate of ECU generated engine failures in both the 2.0t GDI and as I understand it, the 2.5 NA GDI. Really is a shame, because over all, Hyundai does great builds on their present day vehicle lineup. But when the service network does stuff like this, it really makes the 100K warranty valueless.
Holy smokes that’s concerning. I’ll just do my own oil changes so I can monitor the oil consumption. I actually enjoy doing it myself, but I got sucked into the 3 year free service. But you’re absolutely right. What’s the point of a warranty if the damn dealership network isn’t even following the service manual?!!
I used to work for a ford dealer. It’s not just Hyundai, most dealers do not give a tihs about you or your car after the sale. Especially on higher maintenance models. Service departments will spew that oh it’s got a warranty crap all day long until something goes wrong. Then they turn on you and say it’s all your fault. My recommendation is if you if you don’t have the time or knowledge to service your car. Buy the right oil’s and filter’s yourself and take it to the shop of your choice.
Way too many ppl refer to these cars as "N-line" as if N-lines are the top of the range...I keep having to remind ppl that "N" is the performance model. I actually wish they would kill off the "line" nomenclature...it really just serves to confuse everyone.
My Hyundai dealer is "allowed" to do the free oil changes on my Santa Cruz and my son's Elantra, but I don't let them touch my Veloster N. I'd rather pay for the oil and filter and do the work myself than risk anything. Since it is a track car, I'm changing oil every 3000. The oil that comes out is still honey colored but I don't care. 5W-30 full synthetic is what I use. But I don't drive it in the winter. 20W for a N that is going to run hard is no bueno!
I own a veloster n. I have cyber grey EN in transport. I only use 5w30-5w40syn in the summer and in the winter ONLY use 0W30 syn. I use the thicker oil for summer for the heat and thinner oil for the winter when it is cold
0W30 may be the recommended oil, but with Hyundais and German vehicles in particular, there are a couple compatible oil types. I don’t know about your Elantra, but most of their lineup can run 5W20 or 5W30. All shops prefer to use their bulk oil rather than ordering out for specialty oil. It’s why your Elantra had 0W20 put in it. It’s why most shops put 0W20 in modern Toyotas rather than 0W16. In the end it’s more cost effective and it still meets manufacturer specifications.
While I agree it’s more cost effective, that doesn’t mean it’s ok. Going up in viscosity from 0W-16 to 0W-20 isn’t a big deal, but going down viscosity from 0W-20 to 0W-30 is. And again, without something in writing from Hyundai saying those oil viscosities are acceptable, because of the lack of knowledge from the service department and Customer Care, I’d rather stick to what I know is 100% the correct oil to use in case I do have some sort of issue down the road.
@@n-power-automotive I knew I should have used the German car instance rather than Toyota. Most BMWs can run 5W30 or 5W40 Euro synthetic. Those that work directly in the industry (part stores, dealerships, retail service shops and etc) can confidently make such statements because their guides allow for tolerances established by the manufacturer, something the owner’s manual would never include. Would you really want to confuse a DIY car owner with more possible options or keep it simply limited to a single choice?
@@dirgeofdementia I would think they’d word “0W-30 recommend, but 0W-20 and 5W-30 are acceptable alternatives” or something along that line. I’ve seen manuals that list fluid spec variations like that, like 91 octane recommend for maximum performance, but 87 octane is acceptable. The fact that my manual says 0W-30 only and the Customer Care agent was reading something completely different is what concerns me the most.
I took my SI in for it's first oil change and the tech said he'd been doing his job for nearly a decade and had never heard about a break in period, which is also in the manual.
My Kia manual is a bit contradictory on the break in period. In one sentence, it says the engine doesn't require a special break in period. In the next, it tells you to vary RPM and not race the engine for a certain number of miles...kinda like a break in period.
They're almost certainly looking at the N-Line / other Elantra models. No image you provided showed the 2.0 T-GDi, they're all looking at the 1.6 for the N-Line.
I really like the Elantra N, and up till a few weeks ago was going to order a 2023 Elantra N. But I am having second thoughts after hearing about the issues some of the 2022 "N" vehicles are having. Broken rocker arms, blown engines and a DCT recall. I really want to see what is being done before I purchase a brand-new vehicle if they are not going to have good service and support for these cars. Thanks for posting this video, and helping me understand the mess I maybe wading through if I go with a Elantra N.
They have been using this iteration of the Theta II in the VN, KN and the i30N and there have not been many problems reported. As for the DCT recall, it is just a software update, which being a newer car, is no big deal. There will always be recalls and TSB's for new models. I have a 21 WRX Premium and i'm actually going tomorrow to look at a 23 PB VN and will gladly make the trade if the test drive goes well.
most dealership lube techs don't know anything about the actual cars sold there, They're just there to work on whatever car comes in so no surprise they don't know what the Elantra N is
I know a lot of people do that. I done mind changing my own oil, but when a brand offers free maintenance I figure why not let them do it. But not knowing if they’re doing what they’re supposed to be doing is what I don’t like.
@@jasonoshima6839 good point, I mean I suppose a person can test this but the tech usually comes out and asks if I want to keep the last few drops or not. So much trust lost in service departments 😭😭😭
I’ve had many Hyundai cars in the past and do all my own oil changes in fact my 13 sonata turbo was tuned to 365hp I ran 0w40 because it’s a better oil under loads regardless of what the sticker says if you drive it hard it gets hotter you need an oil that won’t break down. Most oil recommendations are for MPGs you can run several different weights within reason and your environment
This is one reason I got the 2022 Kona EV. No oil and 1 service in a year at $67 Canadian. Plus I charge at home at $20 a month and save $ 500 a month on Premium gas, Good luck.
I wouldn’t worry much on the oil grade 0w20 is better on cold climates, but i would worry more on the oil change intervals shouldn’t go pass 4k miles thats more importante on a gdi engine, another thing castrol ,mobil 1, amsoil and penzoil full synthetic oils are what i prefer on my cars , not saying the others are bad but ive always had high boosted cars so thats my take, more than 4k miles is the best time to change the oil if you want to maintain the interior of the engine spot clean .
Actually 0W-20 and 0W-30 are rated exactly the same in cold climates. The W in 0W stands for winter, so they both flow as a 0 viscosity oil (thin) in cold weather. The 20 and 30 stand for when the oil is at full temperature, so the 30 would protect more being it stays at 30 viscosity, where the 20 would be thinner at 20 viscosity. But regardless, they’re probably both fine and I’m just being over analytical about it because that’s what I do lol. Thanks for the comment!
@@n-power-automotive not true. Start looking at flow rate and viscosity numbers. if you just wanna feel it pour 0w20, 0w30, 0w50 and see which cup empties faster. Take a garden hose for example, if you squeeze for more pressure or low pressure, you get what you want. Your engine is designed to use 0w30. 0w20 is thin- thin=low oil pressure=more wear. Engine thats suppose to last 200k might last 120k instead but yeah you are covered under warranty untill it isnt anymore. wear happens over time not 1 day or 1 week
Sorry to hear about your bad dealer experience. I take my vehicle to the dealer for oil changes and warranty work only. I mark the oil filter, oil pan plug, cabin filter and air filter to make sure the work is done. It takes them a minimum 1 hour to complete the service. 15 minutes to change the oil is not enough time to drain, fill and check the fluid levels. Don't go back to that dealer.
Hyundai has really dropped in service and customer satisfaction. I live in the UK and own a 2010 i30 CRD, which to date has been a great car, no issues at all. I have always had helix oil in it. Both Hyundai and Kia are in recent times having a lot of issues and losing customers. The company worked hard in the first years to get things right but of late have gone backwards, When I come to replace my car I will be looking around in general
I completely agree with you. They spent so much time and effort on improving their manufacturing reputation, they finally get there, and then they drop the ball by having poor customer service and dealers. It’s a shame.
Hyundai Australia seems to still have a great reputation as far as I can tell. A lot of the issues that were happening in USA don't seem to have been an issue downunder. I hope that continues.
Problem is that when buying bulk oil, companies right now are on back order, just because you can buy it online, doesn't mean you can buy 50-100 gallons to refill storage tanks. Any oil from shell is extremely difficult to find.
I did my first oil change 3 days ago at 1200miles cause of break in period and I was worried of this exact thing so what I ended up doing was buying oil filters and crush ring at dealership cause no one else had it in the area and for oil I ended up using mobile 1 0w30 and the car has been awesome.
That's a complete waste of money to put full synthetic in any car that's not ultra high performance. As long as it meets the manufacturer spec and rating you can use the cheapest oil you can find. And as long as you maintain the intervals which on most cars is $7,500 mi now your engine will be fine
@@n-power-automotive I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in my last car. I haven't been able to get 0W30 anywhere so I've been getting Mobil 1 and bringing it to my dealer, even for the free services.
A long long time ago I had to take my Ford Falcon EL 1998 (Australia ) back to the dealership for a noisy A/C compressor. They decided that it was noisy and replaced the compressor. I was not happy in the fact that they did not replace the receiver drier or flushed the system for contaminants (as required by the Motor Vehicle Repair Industry Council, the regulatory body) I know they did not flush it as we used to flush the A/C systems for them at my Auto Electrical workshop. About twelve months later, you guessed it a loud screeching noise as the compressor grenaded itself and seized. I took the car back to the workshop and relaced the compressor, the condenser, drier ,TX valve and flushed the system. The car did over 600,000 km on the third compressor.
My dealer sent me a mailer for 20% off parts or service. I went to get some oil filter as I plan to do all oil changes for my Kona N and they straight up tried to weasel their way out of the discount. Service manager later came to me to give me 1 free filter that didn't even belong to my car when I was going to get like 4-5 filters. Single filter was also worth less than the discount. On top of all this, the parts rep asked me if my car was full electric when I was trying to point out I had the Kona N. It also seems they skipped doing scheduled 6K maintenance when I took my car in to get turbo hose and wireless pad replaced. My outlook is bleak As for oil, my dealer uses 0W-20 and manual only list 0W-30, also listing a brand not available in the US. It took some real work to get Hyundai to reply to my question on the manual/dealer disparity and what oil weights would work on my engine. They finally told me 5W-30 is compatible, telling me info came from quality service engineer team. Oils I have in my room after a run around-> Mobile1 AFE 0W-30, Kirkland 5W-30, Castrol Edge 0W-20, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. I'm sending all oil changes to Blackstone labs and I'll keep using whatever comes back looking the best. Not the same type of car but my experience so far with Corp/dealer and the car itself has me wanting to trade it for a 16-18 BMW M2. Octane learning is such a pain, just let me select I'll always be using premium.
@@n-power-automotive Sure brother, I'm at 10k miles right now, changed factory oil at 3k and then changed oil at 6k and 9k so far. I'm going to wait for all the wear metals flush out before I compare them so it'll take some time but I'll try to update you if I keep the car long enough to use them all and get the reports back.
@@n-power-automotive One thing I notice so far is no odd engine start up noise with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Lab says it's also in spec for viscosity. Apparently factory oil and Kirkland 5W-30 weren't in spec. Car is currently about to hit 15K miles, 3K oil and filter changes.
A while after I had the oil changed on my 2016 Hyundai Tucson at our dealership I had my oil plug come out on the highway and emptied out the car. The car was towed to Hyundai and they said it was fine. We would call for service but never hear back. The service center used to be awesome but it really took a dive! I loved my Hyundai and wanted to trade in for a Palisade but we decided on 2023 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Premium because the Hyundai service department was practically inaccessible. I had to drive 30 miles one way to talk to someone in person because I could not get a response over the phone from them.
I have a Kona N and had the same invoice wich says 0w20 synthetic oil. The advisor told me that they don't have the 0w30 ''maintenance package'' in the invoice system so on the invoice it says 0w20. I was very sceptical and he finally decided to show me that they had 0w30 quaker state oil and that the mechanics use the oil grade that is written on the oil cap. In this case, it is 0w30.
@@n-power-automotive If all the Service sku programming is done by head office, I can kinda understand if it's something that isn't high on their list of priorities. Especially true if they actually have 0w30 out back and use it, and 0w20 is listed as a suitable similar substitute.
We have a Hyundai Elantra Limited with free oil changes. Our dealership wont even schedule the work until we're within a few hundred miles from the due date and then magically their schedule is booked out for several months. They said off-cycle, past the due date, oil changes will void the warranty etc. We decided to randomly show up as a regular paying customer one day. Sure enough their schedule was completely free for that day. They have time for paid work but not "free" work that was offered at the time of purchase.
The lighter weight formulations exist due to 3 main reasons, ONE. Engine technology has gotten better over the years, TWO, they can use lighter weight oils to improve gas mileage, and THREE, oil formulation technology has vastly improved. The only real danger in using a heavier weight oil than factory specs (ie Using a 10-W30 , 20W-50 etc) when a 0-20-0-30 is called for, is it can mess up the variable valve timing which normally uses oil pressure to function correctly. Using a too heavy a weight can cause the system to operate incorrectly.
I own a Porsche 981 GTS and a Hyundai Elantra GT Sport. After 12 months of ownership, I could see some clear coat damage evolving on the black painted roof spoiler (hatch back). I went to the closest Hyundai dealership and experienced the exact same service attitude (saying that loss of clear coat is normal - there is nothing "we" can do etc.) When I expressed my dissatisfaction with their refusal to service this issue, I was basically kicked out of this dealership. Fortunately, I found another Hyundai dealership who ultimately corrected and re-painted the spoiler. While this issue is not at all related to the oil service, it does show the lousy service attitude that exists in Hyundai dealerships. I now service my car outside of the dealership and the last 3 years of ownership has been great. I somehow feel that Hyundai cars can be exceptional value, and some models like my 2018 Hyundai Elantra GT sport are even great driving cars (absolutely competitive to a VW Golf), but Hyundai Motor Corp should ensure more consistent and much better service quality within their dealerships.
That’s definitely what I’m coming to the conclusion of regarding Hyundai. Great cars, terrible dealership network. I’ve decided to do my own service going forward as I’ve serviced my own cars before the Elantra N. I enjoying working on my cars so to me it’s not a big deal, but to those who purchased one that are not mechanically inclined, it could be a reason to leave Hyundai. Thanks for the comment!
Herd a few people having warranty claims denied on theses. One I watched recently was an auto and unmodified. They claimed it was denied because it was over reved. Which shouldn’t be possible. Smart move and good catch
I usually do my own oil changes on my 2020 Palisade and yes, in order to preserve warranty, you need to keep records. I store photocopies of my records on my Hyundai website where the dealer also tracks their service records. At times, I will bring the vehicle in for an oil change/service appointment, and the first time I did it, they didn’t tighten down the oil filter housing, started the engine and blew oil all over the underside of the vehicle. They didn’t tell me about that, but I realized something was wrong when I found oil dripping on my driveway and then saw the underside of the vehicle coated with oil. I have no idea if they ran the engine out of oil, but of course, they said it was only momentary. I told them they needed to document that issue on my service record, but they didn’t do that. I also worry about the oil they’ll put in my vehicle, but at this dealer, they told me I can bring in my own oil (always name brand full synthetic) and they’ll charge me a service fee. This way I can also get my tires rotated, save a little money on the oil change, and at the same time, have them document that service was done, thereby protecting the warranty.
Im assuming there’s a reason you took it to Hyundai (it’s free for 2 years (correct if wrong)) but I just bought a new truck and still won’t even take my truck to Toyota, Honestly I might take it there so that my carfax service record looks pretty then immediately change it myself (I have free changes for some time so it won’t cost me anything to waste their garbage oil and filter)
That’s exactly why. I have changed my oil on every car I’ve owned. This was the first time I brought it to a dealer for an oil change. Hyundai gives 3 years, 36,000 miles free maintenance. And I thought having the service show up on CARFAX would help with resale down the road. It doesn’t bother me too much to just do it myself after they do it. At least I get a free up filter and washer out of it ha ha.
I would have lost it and said- its your one job. Just rent a local lift for 30 mins and DIY. i never trust someone to do car work without scamming me/ over charging/ parts cannoning. I have so much exprience fixing my always broken old audis and GTI's. This oil change that I did at 1300 was a cake walk lmao. I love how it doesnt have plastic pan under the engine. It makes it 3 step job - Lift, drain and fill. 5.2 quarts you are golden. 0w30 mobil 1 is always at autozone but yeah its expensive
Yep it’s a very simple car to change your own oil on. I almost thought for a minute they forgot to put a plastic splash guard back on under the engine after doing the oil change, but then I confirmed from photos online that it doesn’t come with one. I have always changed my own oil but when Hyundai offers free complimentary maintenance for 3 years I figured why not.
im a mechanic at a hyundai dealer and were a pretty shitty dealer as far as how old the building is. but whatever the cap says we put in! we use 0-30 on the n's, the new santa fes with the 2.5t, the sonata n line etc...whatever the cap says is what you get. this dealer was for sure cheaping out. so how oil is read the "0" in 0w-30 is thickness of viscoscity when its cold. so the diffrence between 0w-20 and 0w-30 when the engine is cold is no diffrence. but the second number is operating temp which is very important 30 is much thicker and much better for the performence part of the engine.
You are safer with 0W30. Your engine (oil pump) might have a bit harder time pushing it through the system, but since it's ticker, it should lube the engine better (especially the crankshaft bearings and camshafts). However, "fuel pump will work harder" actually means that it will work with the oil weight it was designed for lol. Anyway, nothing to concern about, even if it wasn't designed for that oil weight. Just don't put 10W or 15W oils in, and you'll be fine 😁
0w/30 doesn't sound that thick at all tbh. The 0 weight sounds like it'll run very good cold. 30 rating at higher temp doesn't seem too bad tbh. Lots of modern cars are 5w30 or some European doing 0w20 or some water-like shit.
I put 15w50 in my van 2021 Sedona that called for 5w30. Not too long ago, all cars ran 20w50 all over the USA. Engines are very tolerant of oil weight.
We’ve had nothing but good luck with Hyundai, there’s 6 of them in our family. 2 Santa Fe’s, 1 Sonata, 1 Palisade, 2 Tucsons. The dealer here is great. Just added a 2022 Kia Sorrento EX. After years of other brands I’ll stick to Hyundai.
I had to drive over 100 miles when my Mom was dying most every other day. When my elantra had a major issue the service manager literally screamed at me, told me to rent a damn car if I needed one so bad and said I could drive it (could not) drove down the road, traded it for a Chevy (that dealer has impeccable service) and won't do business with Hyundai again.
I do my own oil changes… takes 20 minutes, use the oil recommended by the car maker, and do it every 5000 miles, synthetic oil, only for big issues my car goes to the dealership. If u can’t do ir own oil change buy the oil filter and oil from walmart, and ask ur trusted mechanic to do it
The oil recommended in the manual is what should be used. However for all vehicle models, there will be a chart showing a range of oils that can be used under different ambient temperatures and oil availabilities. In a modern car manual it is possible that they leave that chart out to prevent confusion of the populous. ( most people never look at there manual) and if they do they just want (1) answer. My 09 accent can take 5w20 5w30 or 10w30 or 10w40
I would have gotten in writing from the dealer stating that putting 0-w20 will not void warranty. That way if anything happens the dealer is responsible.
I bought mine after comparison research. the Elantra is one of the best cars for the home mechanic. that's one of the main reasons I bought it. the Jetta was maybe the second contender, but parts prices won out.
I would not use 0w30 under any circumstances. If you are going to have cold weather like Canada use 5w30 and if you live in the southern US or plan on tracking the car use 10w30
I had a 2005 Santa Fe which I bought new and ran until 2013. Best vehicle I ever owned ( I have owned around 15 cars in my lifetime). It went 450,000kms with no repairs other than tires and brakes when needed. No belt changes, no leaks, no exhaust issues, no tuneups. Just oil changes, brakes and tires.
Well thats kind of like my outback. Says to use 0w 20 but almost everyone on the forums say it eats through 0w20. Well did sone digging and found out that it can take 5w30 and that usually solves the issue. However it usually causes about a half mpg decline. Brurning oil is way worse than a half an mpg in my opinion. Been using for 80k miles no and no issues
Personally I've had a good experience with Hyundai's service department so far on my 2012 N/A Veloster. However the Kia dealership across the street is exactly the way you've described the Hyundai dealership in this experience. They took my '06 Elantra in to the Kia dealer to fix the blower motor for the AC. I come back a week later after bumming rides from people when they told me to pick the car up. I pay them, get in the car, turn on the heat and the blower still isn't working. I go back inside furious, because I'm late for work because of this shit. Apparently they FORGOT to take the car into the shop at all, didn't do ANY work on it, and charged me for it. I made them refund me and replaced the blower motor myself with help from my dad. Meanwhile Hyundai didn't charge me for a part or diagnostics because I figured out the problem myself, bought a part that ended up being DOA and took it to Hyundai since I didn't wanna jack the car up again to try another aftermarket part. They swapped the Crankshaft Sensor with an OEM one, and only charged me for the install which was $70. Finding the OEM part online was $120 just for the part, not including diagnostics and labor, so I'm very happy with them so far.
Super rare to find a Hyundai dealership that has served you as well as it has. And typically the comments here have alluded to Kia having better service, but obviously not in your case. You just never know.
I own a Holden Calais 6.0L V8 Sedan (from Australia) and it states clearly in the manual to only use 5W-30. I started looking closely at the service invoices and depending where the car was serviced, the oil used was usually 10W-40 or 20W-40. What I also noticed was the noisy lifters when the engine started cold. Very noisy. So, instead, I had my son-in-law who is a licensed mechanic to do all my services going forward. I too am anal with what is used and he knows the oil to be used must be full synthetic 5W-30. And now I have quiet lifters. Yes, it makes a big difference to the longevity of your engine. One minor annoyance.....Hyundai is not pronounced as Hon-day. It is Hee-un-day.
Great example of why oil weight is so important. Thank you. Hyundai is actually pronounced differently in different parts of the world. Hyundai tweeted at some point that in America it’s pronounced “Hun-day” like “Sunday” so that’s how I say it.
I bought a used 2010 Elantra directly from the previous owner a few years back. The car experience itself has been fantastic: efficient, comfortable, and so reliable that the only maintenance I've had to do is oil changes and a new set of tires. My Hyundai *_dealership_* experience, however, has been horrible. There's one Hyundai dealership within several hours' drive of my house and any time I've interacted with them they've been useless at best and willfully unpleasant at worst. My car is part of an ABS recall - the ABS module remains powered when the ignition is off, which they claim could cause an electrical fire if moisture enters the housing when the vehicle is parked. I've been receiving phone calls and letters for over two years now telling me to get the problem fixed free of charge at any Hyundai dealership, but every time I call the dealership to schedule the repair, they tell me the parts are out of stock and that they'll call back when they're available. They never do. I've been calling them every six months or so for *_two years_* and they keep giving me the runaround, all while the manufacturer sends me flyers claiming my car will burst into flames if I don't get the repair done ASAP. It's absurd.
Wow. I can’t believe your dealership is that incompetent. Have you tried calling Hyundai Customer Care to see if they can help? Or maybe you’ve already tried that and got similar results as I did? I’m glad to hear the car has been so good for you though. But with that issue lingering for 2 years, I’d be over it.
@@n-power-automotive I haven’t, but this video gave me the idea to try it! Will give it a shot this weekend. At this point I’m convinced it’s intentional on the dealer’s part. My guess is that they have to place an order for the parts to perform the repair, but they don’t want to pay their service department for labor on a repair that they don’t make money on, so they’ve just never placed the order. I don’t know how the logistics of a manufacturer recall work though so that’s just a theory.
@@Sammie1053 yeah that’s not how it works. I do think they have to request the parts from Hyundai, but they don’t pay for them. Hyundai provides the parts at no cost and pay the dealership a prorated amount for the service labor. A lot of dealerships survive on warranty work, which makes me think they actually don’t care about oil or specs with the hope something will go wrong so they can fix it under warranty to continue paying their employees. That’s a just a theory of mine though. But what I’m suspecting in your case is the parts are either on back order or are hard to get, so they place and order, don’t get them and don’t follow up, and the order never gets fulfilled. Hopefully Customer Care can help expedite it for you!
I went to the dealer the first time and they told me It was full synthetic and they never did , They do a regular blend So I won’t trust them . A friend of mine also went for regular maintenance intervals and he’s about 22k miles and was told that next time would be free and after that he has to pay almost 22$ for every oil change. If you want synthetic you have to pay $40. He’s not even up for 36k miles or 3 years for them to stop doing the free oil services.
Warranty advice - if you are going to do your own oil changes, keep a folder with receipts for the oil, filter. Document the date and mileage. I usually have mine done by the dealer just in case there is ever an issue. After warranty, have at it yourself.
Make copies of the receipt. I had the originals on mine and after about a year they faded to blank.
If you do your own oil changes, use a genuine oem oil filter, thats the first thing dearships look for in the event of engine trouble involving a warranty claim no mater what the issue is with the engine.
I don't trust any dealerships after having experience with plaza Hyundai in Brooklyn. It's supposed to be a routine oil change on my brand-new ionic 2021 plug-in hybrid at 6000 miles. First and very important oil change.
I left my car in the shop and after 3 hours got it back. I regret not checking the oil level right after there. When I checked the oil level at home, my car was overfilled with oil a LOT!🤬
I decided to bring the vehicle to my mechanic to drain extras and investigate. I watched the whole process from start to end and recorded it on my phone!
The discovery was SHOKing to me because the Plaza Hyundai dealer didn't Haking change the oil at all - it still was my old burned oil! They just added a quarter on a TOP and was done there, scumbags! They also didn't change the oil filter! 👈🤬
I took an oil sample to a laboratory for analysis and got results to confirm my findings. I can confirm and sign under everything I wrote but will only reveal it to a Hyundai investigation team! Dealers like Plaza Hyundai deserve to be doomed and out of business!
I write it here because I know they are going to respond with "Sir, please give us you order number so we could investigate and punish a Bad boy (read as Poor Boy) technician. Bla-bla-bla"👈😡 The fact is...
I believe most Hyundai dealerships purposely destroy cars and engines the way it happened to me to keep them busy and get big dollars. I say be very suspicious of this and all dealerships!
God bless you all. Stay away from Plaza Hyundai dealer. You can buy a car there but NEVER EVER SERVICE it there! I warned you. Peace out. 🇺🇲✊️
Yep I bought the oil from Amazon so the receipt is digital and I have the service invoice showing the oil filter and washer were replaced. I will absolutely document everything.
@@n-power-automotive I do this as well. Oil & filter purchased on Amazon and the gaskets come with the filters themselves :)
I'm glad I found your video. I plan on getting an Elantra N in a few months and this is something I wouldn't have considered being a concern, but having the right oil viscosity in your engine, especially a performance based turbo engine, is kind of a big deal. Thanks for sharing this.
You’re welcome! It’s very annoying, but thankfully it doesn’t ruin owning such an awesome, fun car. You’ll love it.
So sorry that happens to people. My fear is when the car has a real issue. I heard they try every trick in the book to avoid warranty work. I also heard the dealership experience was one of the reasons people are so down on Hyundai/Kia. Good luck to you. Hope things work out.
Thank you! Hopefully I don’t ever have to use them for warranty work.
@@n-power-automotive I have been to alot of Hyundai dealerships for maintenance and all but one were scammers.
absolutely
@@mccanada269 that’s good. I hope maybe the dealership closer to me will be a better experience.
@@n-power-automotive hopefully, even with free oil changes I wouldn't do it. They used 5w20 and messed up my drain bolt so I had a small leak. Just do it myself now with peace of mind
You are 100% Right as the consumer. These Vehicles are not cheap and if it calls for 0w 30 then that's what should be in it to protect the longevity and equity. They're just like oh you're still in warranty. Well what about when the warranty ends?
Exactly!!! It might just be a Hyundai, but it’s $35,000 of my hard earned money. I feel I have a right to request the proper viscosity oil be used.
I own my own shop and I know for a fact the 0w30 shell/pennzoil is not readily available as I’m dealing with that right now. But I don’t agree with the dealer using a different grade of oil when Hyundai has has issues with their engines using oil/ burning oil and a customer loses an engine due to this gdi and turbo shit they’re running in these cars.
I had a 2018 Elantra GT Sport. My experience at Hyundai dealers is why I will never buy another Hyundai. My car died on the side of the interstate. It was towed to Oxmoor Hyundai. They kept it for 2 weeks, and "couldn't find anything wrong". The dealer offered loaners, but never had one for me until like 3 days before they gave the car back. They were horrible at updating me on the situation. Car still didn't run right when I got it back. Did some research and it's widely known that Hyundai has issues with their coils. Tried to take it back, but they wouldn't do anything because they "couldn't find anything" last time it was in. Didn't believe me that it was still running rough. Ended up having to buy new MSD coils myself, and the car ran like new after that. Blind spot detection went out like 3 times in the car. Bachman was better to deal with, but still not great. I've never been happier to get rid of a car. I will never buy another Korean car.
That sounds like a major headache. I’m hoping the car is reliable. Time will tell.
F Toyota too!
I BROUGHT A HYUNDIA SANTA CRUZ 4 MONTHS AGO. AT 300 MILES IT QUIT RUNNING. I GOT IT BACK LAST WEEK AND IT QUIT AGAIN AFTER 50 MILES. FOR A $49.126 VEHICLE IT'S A RIPOFF.
I have a 2016 KIA Forte5, that I do Not take to a dealer anymore and I drive the tires off of it. Often. Track day stuff.. it loves it. 😊
@@donQpublic that’s what I like to hear!
Just stumbled on your video. I have had Hyundai Elantra's, Kia Forte's as company cars since 2005. Personally, I owned a Sorento and a Sonata. In the 2005 era, tough powertrains cheap bodies. Customer service was top notch. Then Kia and Hyundai got incredibly better around the 2013-ish time. Customer service stayed top notch as the cars became top notch. By 2017, the shine was coming off the diamond. Customer service started getting bad at all the dealers I tried. Then the recalls, fires, Theta motor debacle, burning oil etc... the dealer and customer service experience went to hell. I loved this last Sonata! But I had to unload it for peace of mind. My service and customer experience kept getting worse. Once I lost faith in the competence of the dealer and it became clear Hyundai / Kia would pick and choose what defect they would stand behind, it was time to go. Truly a sad thing. I remember when Hyundai showed up to America with the Excel. I was proud of how far they came. Then I was angered at how low they stooped.
Same here, owned Elantras and Sonatas but after that Theta engine debacle I wouldn’t buy another one. Hyundai/Kia dealerships here in FL are sleazier than the normal dealer too.
Wow so you have a lot of experience with the brand. I’m hoping, despite the DCT recall, that there won’t be any issues that I’ll have to use the warranty for, but you never do know. Out of curiosity, what brand vehicle do you own now?
@@n-power-automotive My personal vehicle now, is a Ram 1500. I traded in my Sonata and Nissan Frontier on it. The market started to finally tip back into favor, and I made a move. I loved my Sonata, but was more worried about it's reliability and safety than I was my 2010 Frontier with 119,000 miles. So, I traded them both for the Ram.
@@clay282 my Charger R/T was extremely reliable. Just a gas guzzler.
My dad test drove an Excel way back when and hasn't stepped foot in a Hyundai or Kia since. I don't blame him.
Since you asked about everybody’s thoughts. I’ve been working on all my family cars for 25years as a hobby. I just bought our first Hyundai for our daughter 16th birthday and for the first time in my life I saw 3 weights of oil mentioned in the manual and the the one on the cap is number two choice in the manual. Never had that range with bmw or Toyota or Nissan.
That said I would never sweat over 0w-20 vs 0w-30, I’d definitely not drain. I agree with everyone you talked to on the phone, the car will be just fine. But I understand being anal about certain things. Next time specifically request the weight on the cap to make you feel better. I would too. That Quacker brand recommendation in my manual though, I like Mobil-1…but again I would not drain a one time Quacker…
Thanks for the comment. This video was over a year ago and since that incident I have been changing the oil in it myself and keeping records of everything. It probably would have been fine, but I am anal and prefer to know I have the called for weight in there so if I do ring it out and have fun driving it like it was intended, I wouldn’t have to worry about it.
Thanks for this post! I recently had my first oil change and didn’t even think about the type of oil and assumed the dealer would do the right thing. I looked at the receipt and they had used 5W 30. I went back to the dealer with the manual in hand and showed them that it should be 0W30. No questions asked they took the car back right there and did the change for me with the right oil. Thank you!!!
Are you sure they changed the oik
did you see them actually replace the oil ??
That's awesome! I'm so glad my video helped!
I didn’t even think about this. They have used 0-20 so much in my car for the first year and half. I’m at 11K miles now. I’ve gotten my change every 3 months though
I was gonna buy a kona N, and heard about the DCT issues it's been having. Also the stories about the dealerships not honoring warranties, so I stuck with Mazda and got a mazda 3 turbo ! I love it
Kinda sounds like my experience! I, too, was looking at a Kona N. Didn’t fall in love with it when I test drove. Tried an Elantra N too. Then I discovered the CX-50 turbo. Mazda hadn’t even been on my radar. I test drove one and fell in love. Im extremely happy with my decision. Mazda is underrated!
@@clutch7366 definitely underrated brand. These are engines are very reliable as well and the dealership won't give u the runaround. Enjoy ur new mazda my bro ! Cheers 🍻
great decision im a mechanic at a hyundai dealer the dct's are pretty weak and jank the car around pretty bad about 20k in.. it sucks but these hyundai guys accept it
@@sambeagle72 good to know 👍
@@sambeagle72 not sure why these guys would go for the dct on a car like this. car seems like to much fun to skip out on the manual.
im actually considering a manual mazda 3 hatch. 😅 its slow but thats fine.
I work at a Hyundai dealership service department. The only correct oil is 0W-30. Anyone looking at those sheets with multiple specs is looking at a regular Elantra and somehow doesn’t realize that the N is considered an entirely different model because of the Theta II engine and substantial chassis/suspension changes. No turbo Theta II has ever been had an oil specification for 0W-20; NA engines took 5W-20 and turbos took 5W-30 until 2019.
The only Hyundais that use 0W-30 are N cars and the Theta III turbo (2.5L) engine found on some Santa Fe, Santa Cruz, and Sonata models. My dealership used to have trouble getting it, but we always used 0W-30, even if someone had to run down the street for oil and we took a loss on parts cost. We now stock a 55-gallon drum or two because the number of cars coming through with that spec is starting to climb.
As far as Shell Helix vs Quaker State goes, Shell owns Quaker State so they’re literally the same thing. Any 0W-20/30 oil will be full synthetic regardless.
Currently at a dealer getting my first oil change. After 2 and a half hours of waiting I had the exact same problem you did. They used 5w-20 synthetic blend instead of 0w-30 full synthetic. Thanks to you after the change I checked the oil and caught it. Went back in and thankfully one guy here seamed to be aware that it's supposed to use different oil than what they gave me and he said they would take care of it. I would have never Checked had I not come across your video. When I first asked if they used the right oil, they said it's the oil they use on all the hyundai's. I said but this one isn't like all the other hyundai's it doesn't use the same oil. It's not listed anywhere that it's supposed to use any other oil. She said it's fine it won't hurt anything. I went and looked up the skew for the oil and saw it was 5w-20 and went back and just simply asked why they didn't use the oil that supposed to be in the car. They are getting it squared away currently and didn't put up a fuss. I'm just glad someone here knew what it was supposed to be. So thank you for alerting me to checking this. I don't fault the techs here I fault hyundai for not educating them better to be aware of the differences in the vehicles. It's not just another hyundai. Mine was the first one they had seen in person. Which again isn't their fault but it doesn't help them do their job.
I’m SOOOOOO GLAD MY VIDEO HELPED! That’s amazing!
@@n-power-automotive well update. They still put in the wrong oil. They didn't have 0W-30 so they used 5W-30. They showed me a recommendation chat they get sent from hyundai with a list of approved oils to use for each model and the Elantra N wasn't even on the list. So they went off the Veloster N which also says 0W-30 but can use 5W-30. I called the dealer I bought it from and checked if they had the correct oil and just scheduled a service for there. About an hour away but I'll do it just for the peace of mind that the correct oil was used
@@michaelwilburn1001 well 5W-30 is a much much more suitable alternative than the 5W-20 they first put in yours (or the 0W-20 the put in mine). I may actually switch over to 5W-30 my next oil change because technically it should give a little bit better protection in the long run. I’m glad at least they did some extra digging for you. Can’t say the same for my dealership. Thanks for the update!
In my car (non-Hyundai) the manufacturer recommends 5w/30 synthetic but I can use 5w/40 if it meets factory recommendations (which it does). No worries. Your Hyundai will be just fine. If you live in a snow belt, the lower winter number will be a better choice. You well know the regular oil changes is the key to good maintenance and health of your automobile.
One thing to keep in mind. Manuals they print in bulk in advance. Latest recommendations can come later from manufacturer. Manufacturers are known to issue to TSB to update recommended oil. Hyundai has done that before in a TSB(i can't recall the model and year). I would have taken a copy of their sheet and email from Hyundai and filed it as proof.
The Hyundai Customer Care agent read the manual to me and it didn’t match at all. If they did revise the manual, you’d think they’d communicate that with owners. I haven’t heard anyone say they received anything saying the oil specs have changed.
Yea they changed the Sparkplug model on my 2.0L turbo 3 times in 8 years. Each time recommending a cooler step. And My oil cap says 0w30(40 weight recommended), but it can take 0w20 to 20w50 according to the manual lol
@@nightanole what model car?
It’s pretty common for changes to be made post publishing of the manual. I experienced something similar with my BMW M3 where the 2015 oil manuals called for a different grade than 2016-2018 models. The trend is usually going down to a thinner grade for the sake of fuel economy smh
@@TLumVids interesting. I’ll have to ask a 2023 Elantra N owner what their owners manual says.
I think you did the right thing in going by the oil cap and manual to get the right oil in the car. I've read and heard that modern engines are a lot pickier about that than they used to be. Also, I've read about engine problems in Hyundai vehicles so I think you should be very picky when it comes to service.
What would have happened if he bought the **LEFT** oil?
@@JESUSCHRYSLER5512 lol
I have never ever ever ever taken my vehicles to dealerships for oil changes. Over priced and under served is the motto at most dealerships . Find a reliable, honest working privately owned shop to do your work. Oil change at dealership is 98.00, at my guys shop 69.00. Same oil, better oil filter and no appointment needed. Also don’t have to wait three hours for a damn oil change that takes only twenty minutes. They check tire pressure and adjust if needed, check and top up other fluids ( brake, washer and rad ) and inform me if they added to the brake or radiator so I can be aware if they are in need of service or repair. Trust me those big dealership buildings aren’t paid for by the profits from selling you the vehicle, they come from profits in the service bays.👍🇨🇦
Understood but I have free service for 3 years, 36,000 miles. I’m not paying for $100 oil changes at the dealership. They’re free. If that wasn’t given to be I’d absolutely be changing the oil myself.
If they want to avoid warranty issues, going with a thinner oil than recomended does not seem like a very smart move. 20 grade oil for a performance engine seem way too thin. 20 is usually for ultra low friction engines for fuel eficiency, the oposite of the engine on that model
Exactly my thoughts, too.
Man, I'm sorry to hear this. The service at Rowe Hyundai in Westbrook Maine has been excellent for me. Had the initial oil change at 1K miles, 0-30 W, full synthetic Mobil1 for $15/quart. When I got the 6xth Element catch can, they only charged me $45 to install. Heck, even had my winter tires and rims delivered to their shop, getting them installed Monday. Never had a bad experience with the Elantra N or my 2013 Sonata.
Maybe I’ll take the short drive from TN to ME next time lol! I had a feeling the dealership I bought my EN from was gonna be this way. I could tell by the lack of knowledge of the salesmen that they didn’t know much about the EN, so I assumed they hadn’t sold many so the service department didn’t see many for service. The thing I learned from calling Hyundai Customer Care is all Hyundai dealerships are independently owned and operated, so it’s sort of a gamble which will be competent or not. Hopefully the dealership closer to me will be a better experience next time. Thanks for the comment!
hey dealerships can install catchcan?
@@commentmancommentman1658 assuming the service department is good. All dealerships are different, so you'll have to check yours locally.
I live in NH and we do not have EVs at Hyundai dealerships here. I was thinking to call them up for my Ioniq 5 inquiry. Good dealership huh?
Mobile 1 sucks.
I use non-synthetic in my BMW 335i twin turbo. I stay within 5 viscosity range. I use 5-30 or 0-40. Normal driving condition is fine as far as I know. 178k miles. Still running strong.
I had nothing but good experiences at my hyundai dealership. Friendly, nice, quick, and they always check for any software updates and recalls for me even if I don't ask first. I think it depends on the dealer. I've been to some horrible Toyota and bmw dealers.
Couple of things that are mind-blowing about this.
1. That NO ONE in the service department caught this (it’s obv. a special performance car - they should have recognized that immediately, and realized that it was going to have some service needs that are out of the ordinary).
2. That the service manager, doubled down on stupid, and did not just immediately admit the mistake, reassure you that no damage had been done, but offer to immediately drain and then refill with the correct oil.
3. I can’t believe that no one, including the rep that you talk to on the phone, recognized that, being a performance car, this engine will benefit, from a thicker viscosity of oil.
Good on you for making the decision to take care of your own oil changes now.
What oil are you using? I believe the Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 is the exact same thing as Shell Helix 0W-30, just re-labeled.
Another great choice, now actually available on the shelf at Walmart for less than 30 bucks per jug, is Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30.
It does make me happy that Hyundai recognizes the benefit of a thicker viscosity oil in a high-performance turbocharged four-cylinder. Unlike Subaru, which has now gone to a recommendation of 0W-20 in the newer WRXs (my 2016 called for 5W-30).
Thank you! I used Pennzoil Platinum 0W-30 Euro for a few oil changes, but then discovered Mobil1 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy which meets all the Hyundai oil requirements. Like you said, it’s available at Walmart and very reasonably priced. I believe the Mobil 1 ESP is a little different and doesn’t meet the same requirements.
I’m the same way! Put the right oil or the recommended oil per your manual. These dealerships cut corners and charge you an arm and a leg for everything. Good for you
Exactly!!!
Agreed - They keep trying to push off the oil changes on my Velo N, and I just had my HPFP die and that was pulling teeth to get that done. They kept me at an arms length for EVERYTHING. Said I had to auth a diagnosis charge if it wasn't a warrantied issue, couldn't get to me for a few days b/c they have so many cars, and wouldn't give me a loaner or offer to cover a rental until they confirmed it was a warrantied issue. I already made an appointment for the following day since it was acting funny before it died but had to tow it in before the appt. The dealer said, and I quote, "The appointment is for bringing the car in, not looking at it." I had to cry on Twitter and speak to corporate for them to look at it on my scheduled day, and it still took me 3 days to get my car back - and they disconnected my dashcam while they had it and gave it to me w/ no gas in it. Absolutely maddening. Corporate did comp me a bit but I'm still never going to that dealer for anything.
Dang that’s an absolutely crappy experience. At least it sounds like you got some retribution from your ordeal, but it still sucks to have to bitch and moan to get them to take notice.
I think this is was happened to my 2021 Hyundai Sonata limited. They wouldn’t let me get an oil change until 15,000 miles. The mileage was at 12,300 at the time but it was already driving strangely as if it needed as oil change. Fast forward to 14,820 miles and my car is completely dead when I go to start it the next morning 😑. I though it was a battery issue but they’re telling me it’s not the battery and something else is wrong but they’re not sure what!! My car steering wheel began to shake at high speeds, weird clicking sound in the dashboard console, and a drag when pressing the gas. You can’t even get an oil change earlier if you want to because most oil change places don’t have the new Hyundai filter!! Sigh, at least they gave me a loaner in the mean time.
@@Rebecca.xoxoxo yikes, I hope they get it figured out for you!
@@n-power-automotive thank you!! I’ll update with the issue once it’s figured out
I’m a Sonata N line owner. I’ve been doing my own oil changes since new. I keep a detailed record in my notes and take pictures of every service I perform. I’ve never had a single issue with my car, but if I do I sure hope Hyundai won’t give me trouble about it. I’m only at 20k, but I already worry. Super fun sedan, but I don’t get the peace of mind that I had when I owned my Accord.
I’ve started doing my own after this experience. I’m keeping receipts of my oil and filter purchases and I track my maintenance in an app, so I’m hoping for the same if any issues arrive. I just hit 10,000 miles today and no problems so far. I think the SNL is an awesome car, too. Much more comfortable and mature than the EN. I was tempted to trade it for one a few months back, but I was surprised it didn’t have much more room than the EN. In fact the rear seat legroom seemed less, I’m guessing because the front seats are some much thicker on the SNL it takes away some space in the back. That was a deal breaker for me.
I have a '22 DCT with 9,000 miles. You are correct that Elantra "N"'s are rare. My local dealer has not seen more than a dozen of all types of N cars and the service manager didn't know there was a difference between the N Line and the N. Yikes! I normally don't trust dealers anyway but I decided that, since there's a 10 /100,00 warranty on the drivetrain that I would let the dealer do the maintenance. The statement from my first service (at 6k miles) states 0-30 oil so I'm OK with that but it doesn't state the brand. Of course the mech could have filled it with Wesson for all I know. It's sad there's such a disconnect between Hyundai corporate and their dealers.
what's scary is you don't even know what they're actually putting in They could say they're putting in 030 and they could be putting something else in!!
Exactly the approach I took with having the free service done. I hate leaving my car with techs not knowing exactly what they’re doing, too. Let’s hope they actually put in 0W-30. It’s 99.9% likely it’s not Shell , but maybe it’s Quaker State.
Sorry you had to go through this. I can relate as a former Ford SVT and ST owner, experiencing the same dealership BS over the oil weight/type issue every time I got the cars serviced at the dealership (when they were out of warranty, bye bye dealerships!). Buying a specialty performance model from a mainstream brand can be, unfortunately, an exercise in frustration when it comes to service. Enjoy your Elantra N--cool car!
Ford is very very bad--they will not honor any work on saleens or shelbies and I will never buy any product from Ford again in the near future unless they really clean up.To test Ford last year--I pasted and copied the VIN number from a Super Snake that i was actually thinking of buying.I called the ford dealer near me and claimed I had a code for a repair on the engine--real code but simply made it up to test them and the run around began to we do not have Shelby trained techs to they have to submit the repair to ford corporate and get an answer in 2 weeks.I said to them is this how you treat someone who laid down 100k on their products only to be run around with the first problem.I also owned a saleen years ago that would not pass emiisions --so I already knew they might play these games and it was the same thing--only a decade later and I was not dumb enough to buy the super snake.If you do not believe me its simple--just look for a saleen or shelby on autotrader--Ford service has no clue who owns what---tell em you have some engine problem or better yet a problem with the supercharger and watch what happens.Nearest saleen dealer to "supposedly" try and fix my saleen was 2 states away and would have cost over a 1k to ship it--finally just sold the saleen and told myself enough with Ford.
Thanks! At least it’s refreshing to know it’s not just Hyundai, but regardless it’s so frustrating spending good money on a new car only to have them not follow what the manual calls for. Just to save a few bucks.
@@n-power-automotive I think finding reputable mechanics is not easy in todays world ! An Elantra N is rarely seen at the dealership so learning how to DIY is a great skill. You learn more about the car & getting underneath it you see what is happening. If you plan on keeping the car investing in the tools to keep it running might initially be an expense but in the long run pays off because you know more about the car & NOBODY is going to take care of your car better if your involved in the maintenance. With CZcams videos today its an easy way to save $$$$ with any mechanical skill or want to. BTW Harbor Freight has upped its game & recently been going there to expand the tool box. I don't go below mid level though.
@@ag4allgood absolutely! If you look through the videos on my channel you’ll see I do a lot of my own wrenching. I did 99% of the modifications on my previous car myself. I have always done that. The only reason I took the Elantra N in for an oil change is because the offered free maintenance for 3 years/36,000 miles. I figured why turn that down? But now I know why!
Sounds like the one time I tried to save $80 bucks and took my Lexus LS460 to a Toyota dealership for an oil change, 4 hours later the wrong oil, plus 2 quarts short and my car was taking nearly 30 seconds for the engine to start. Lesson learned. Vehicle didn’t start correctly until I took it in to Lexus for another oil change.
It’s a shame when a bad dealership give a good company a ban name by mistreating customers
100%
Depends on the climate you live but you're not wrong.
Keep oil and filter receipts in a folder with photos of containers and keep changing it yourself. My manual for a different car (2.5T) calls for 5w30 but I live in the deep south where during the summer it stays above 85 degrees F throughout the whole day. So for me, a 5w 40 would work much better.
My experience with Hyundai so far has me considering selling and going back to a VW GTI. I enjoy the car a lot but man the difference in service is just astonishing
I’ve heard horror stories about VWs too, though more about the car’s reliability vs. dealership experience. What Hyundai model do you own?
No man lol the VW dealer I went to never saw a GTI before and treated my car like a standard golf with "aftermarket " mods lmao! I was like wtf you morons!
I’ve never had any issues with Toyota, Honda, or Mazda service center issues. That’s a shame.
you sound poor if you think a GTI is considered luxury. didn't you buy a N for performance? stop crying and go drive.
@@potatochobit is that directed at me? When did I ever say a GTI is luxury vehicle lol?
I have had 2 Hyundai vehicles, and ended taking them both to other garages than the dealer when they needed service after having basically the same experience that you did with the dealer's service department.I highly doubt that I will ever buy another Hyundai again, especially since there are many, many stories going around about how Corporate Hyundai tries to weasel out of its warranty obligations, and about large numbers of engine failures with recent Hyundai cars. Too bad - they used to build good cars & have a good reputation for service.
I wonder what went wrong? They are the 3rd or 4th largest vehicle manufacturer now. Why are they going backward when they finally started getting a better reputation?!!
Exactly why I do my own oil changes and general maintenance
Yep, and I have done that on all my previous cars, but when Hyundai offers you free service wouldn’t you take advantage of that, too? But with that said, I’ll probably just do it myself going forward.
Do my own and sleep better knowing it's done correctly and save a buck as well.
As if this isn't bad enough, you have to hear this one. I just bought a Kona SEL (03-08-2023) and foolishly let them talk me into an 8 year maintenance contract saying that if I did my own oil changes it would void the warranty. When I looked it over after the fact, I was set up for normal service intervals using CONVENTIONAL OIL. The car requires 0w-20 synthetic. There is no such thing as 0w-20 conventional oil. I contacted 4 different Hyundai service departments including the place of purchase, all of which said the contract was in error. Despite this, the finance manager who sold me the contract refused to change it stating that I could simply request synthetic at time of service and pay an extra $10-$15 each time. After a week of wasting my time back and forth, I cancelled the contract. Hard to believe.
That’s so sketchy. Glad you were able to cancel the contract.
This happens at every mechanic shop behind the scenes lol
I just viewed another YT video where a Hyundai owner, who also happens to be a technician at a Hyundai dealership, had his engine self destruct; Hyundai refuses to honor the warranty because the computer states the engine was over-revved despite the fact that it does not have a manual tranny AND the ECU is supposed to limit the maximum RPM. Bottom line: a warranty is only as good as the integrity of those behind it. I have seen too many negative reviews to ever purchase a Hyundai or Kia, despite the fact that I like their appearance.
Yes. I made a video about that situation, which I believe has some major holes in the story. I’m planning on making a follow up video soon.
@@n-power-automotive Looking forward to it. Scotty Kilmer, who I also follow, certainly doesn't like Kia autos, but I do not recall his comments regarding Hyundai. Do they still have the 10 year-100, 000 mile warranty standard?
@@dgriffin6074 yes, 10 year/100,000 powertrain warranty and 5 year/60,000 bumper to bumper warranty.
Technically speaking the service manager isn't "wrong" using a different weight oil than recommended just alters it's overall properties for lubrication and they may or may not be better/worse depending on where you are and how you drive.
Lower weight oils == more performance but also more wear typically and 0W-30 to OW-20 isn't the end of the world for a full-synthetic blend (which is already going to be better for engine wear).
In many cases the climate dictates the oil selection; 0W-20 in a colder climate is ideal, 0W-30 in a warmer climate is ideal and considering the timing of your post it's entirely possible the tech went with the 0W-20 to better care for your vehicle.
My "guess" is that it just boils down to cost and what they have in stock though, if you want oil changes done right you really got to do them yourself.
Interesting interruption. How exactly would 0W-20 be better in the winter than 0W-30, though? The 0W is the cold viscosity, which are identical.
@@n-power-automotive Thinner oil overall, yes the weighted value is the cold value but compared to a 0W-30 it's a faster flowing oil due to a lower viscosity. The EN can handle it and on forums (I have a VN) most recommend it. You'll see better gas mileage, better performance, and it'll warm up a tad quicker in colder climates.
My only primary concern is that the oil will wear a bit quicker, just take it in for service sooner; instead of the recommended 7500 bring it in at 5000.
For daily driving though? Doubt it would do any damage; engine temps likely won't even go over 195~ in the winter... it's 86 here in Florida and I just got done with a pretty spirited drive in my VN and engine temps just barely hit 235 degrees. Oil temp was like 220.
If it helps... I am running 5W-30 so it's not the recommended either.
@@anengineerandacat great info, thanks, but why are you running 5W-30 and not 0W-20 if it has all those benefits?
@@n-power-automotive I live in Florida (I think I mentioned that) but it also wasn't exactly my choice; the tech at Hyundai recommended it when discussing my driving habits. 5W-30 is better suited for warmer climates, and has better protection above 212 degrees (I typically hit 220-230 on my commutes).
The "normal" operating temp for an oil is 212 degrees so having a bit of cold weight helps when it's below that temp.
Ie. If I am doing a trip to the grocery store and back the vehicle won't go over 200 degrees on the oil temp.
Quite honestly, it's more important it's full-synthetic.
I requested 0w30 on my service request. It does not say oil weight on service papers but does say full synthetic. 5w30 is more or less used during racing, etc.. a bit more protection in heat.
I would've told the manager to document your concern on the invoice about the oil. That way if there is a warranty issue, you have it in black and white
Wish I had thought of it. I’ll make sure to do that next time if I go to the dealer for an oil change.
I have sold Hyundai, and while there helped the service department to move some new cars around for recall adjustments. This when the 06 Sonata first came out. Purchased one myself, and the car is still running today, sold it to a friend. Great car. Started doing my own oil changes, and it was tough to get certain items repaired at the dealer. One was a passenger side window that got jammed, they tried to spray some lube into the window cavity, but of course that did not work. Ended up getting the parts on eBay and fixed it myself. On one dealer oil change, they forgot to tighten the drain plug. Fortunately no harm done, saw the drip and I tightened it myself. They did the serpentine belt properly, while a local mechanic lied to me and said it was the wrong part.. No, it was genuine Mobis with the Hyundai logo on it. Other than that, the car needed nothing until 130,000 miles where my friend had the oil pan changed as it was getting rusty. Hopefully your Elantra N will be as long lived. And best to stay on that 0W30 as Hyundai scrutinizes maintenance records in case of a warranty claim. Also, you may as well stick with the genuine Hyundai oil filter for the same reason.
You should change the oil, at minimum, 3,500 miles. That was recommended for my 2021 Veloster N. This is important for the turbo. Yes, go with full synthetic always. I always ran 5W30 Mobil1 full synthetic. Service writers no very little about cars and engines.
Thanks for the advice.
They thought your car was a base model, and surprisingly the tech still thinks 0w20 and 0w30 are the same… all bad.
For old vehicles, I know if the manufacturer recommends 5w30 it’s ok to go with a 10w30 or even 10w40 in warmer areas in the summer, but this only goes for a vehicle with 180k+ on the odo..
In your case, all bad, and they should know the correct viscosity and it’s highly recommended to use the exact one needed. And if the engine gets damaged, they’ll deny responsibility.
It’s crazy to me too that they’d get it confused with a base model Elantra. I want to blame the tech, but really it’s the dealership and service managers fault.
You are absolutely correct regarding the rareness on these cars!
I went through the exact same scenario as you for my first complimentary oil change. The service rep kept thinking my car was the N-Line when I told him specifically it was in fact an N. It stated N on all of the email correspondence. He even tried to tell me my change interval was every 8,000 miles. He went so far as to set up my next appointment at 16,000 miles. I said, whoa! Hold up, my car is an N, I will see you at the 12,000 mile mark. It took him a while to register what was going on and I lost all hope in this poor confused soul.
On all of my previous cars I always did my own oil changes but I figured with this high-strung motor I better let the dealer do it for the 1st three years. The other decent perk is my selling dealer adds 2 more years of free oil changes.
I’m not glad you went through the same as me, but it’s nice to have confirmation I’m not the only one! I’m right there with you on all points. I’m going to stick with them doing the oil changes, but if they use 0W-20 I’ll probably still drain and refill with 0W-30. It’s crazy that dealers would know so little about a model they sell, but that’s the time we live in I guess. Thanks for the comment and all the best luck with your N!
Your engine will be fine with 8k mile oil changes that's how far I went with my hhr ss "high performance" 2.0t and at 140k miles when I sold it ran great.
@@n-power-automotive I would tell them the week before you go for your oil change appointment or when they call you for the reminder to make sure they have the right grade of oil that you want used in your car😁
@@eleanormassaro5195 great advice thanks!
@@Defy_Convention Not a good idea if it's direct injection. Direct injection causes more fuel to get passed the cylinders and into the engine oil. Fuel degrades engine oil. I would change all direct injected car engine oil every 3,000 miles, else you will see smoking coming out the exhaust when accelerating hard.(Worn piston rings to due oil dilution).
For all you Hyundai owners need to look at the recalls. The Hyundai N has a faulty oil pump that Hyundai will not cover. Your Rev limiter base off of the ecu is set to 6750 is the cutoff. What happened when the data was sent to Hyundai, it went to 8k on the rev. How is that possible if theirs a rev limiter controlled by the ecu. A Hyundai owner and technician of the vehicle. Hyundai said it will cost 18k to replace the engine. The technician did it for 13k out of his own pocket. Think twice of purchasing the new Hyundais.
My first oil change for my 2021 turbo Santa Fe at the dealer they wrote 0W-30 on the window sticker, but 5W-30 on the invoice. When I asked the manager told me they were approved by Hyundai to use 5W-30 semi synthetic due to problems sourcing the 0W-30. Since I am not in a cold climate, I don't see a big problem there, but I did only run the oil for 1,000 miles and then switched it out myself to 0W-30 synthetic, which is what I will also do next time they do a change under the included maintenance (I also change it in between the included Hyundai services). I would have changed it immediately if they had used 0-20. The worst part, though, was that they started my engine with the oil cap off and then didn't even say anything or apologize. There was oil everywhere...even up on the roof. The car had been completely detailed the day before service, too. Even after I brought it up to them, the apology was half assed.
Oh wow that’s a horrible story! I would be livid if that happened. When I first met my wife she used to take her car to Walmart to have the oil changed. She came over one day after getting it serviced there and complained about it smelling like something burning. I popped the hood and sure enough they never put the oil cap back on. People make mistakes, but I would never expect that to happen at a dealership. Unreal.
@@n-power-automotive My dashcam caught the whole thing. I should probably upload it if I haven't already (I can't remember...lol!). They sort of chuckled about it and half ass wiped a rag around, which just smeared the oil. I may actually not go back there for oil changes... haven't decided for sure yet. I'd like to for warranty purposes, but I can also just have it done elsewhere. But not at any quick lube places! Sorry your wife had that happen, too.
@@chuckhpnwx You should send it to Hyundai Corporate.
that's why you should do your own oil changes and keep receipts. You want some dumb kid who wants to get to lunch changing the oil on your expensive performance car ???
Just bought a 2023 Sonata SLE Plus. Thanks for sharing. I will call the service department at my dealership first and verify if they have the oil in the manual and if not, call the other dealership closest. I will also ask if I can bring my own oil and pay the service fee. Hope that eases any potential headaches for me.
Probably worth your time. I don’t know what oil viscosity the owners manual for the Sonata SEL calls for, but it’s very likely it’s something like 0W-20 or 5W-20 which are much more common than what the Elantra N calls for, but better safe than sorry. Good luck!
It happens all the time. Shops order oil by the drum, so they typically will only have very limited viscosity selection. If I was in your position, I’d just change it myself.
Yep, it seems changing it myself is likely the only way I’ll get 0W-30.
Problem is most dealers don't have 0w30, just buy and bring your own oil or do it yourself and keep all records. I use amsoil 0w30 in winter and 0w40 in summer.
And hence this is why oil changes should be performed at home with the good stuff. Remember that they are not the ones making the monthly payments... The bummer is that doing it like this is unfortunately not posted to the database history of the car like CarFax or AutoCheck. I just got tired of dealerships just doing a "half-ass" subpar job every time I took my car to them
Yeah that’s the kicker, you get to do it yourself so you know it’s done right, but the next owner doesn’t know. If I end up selling it myself one day I can present the receipts, but if I trade it in the dealer might give me a hard time. We’ll see.
I had the same experience at my Hyundai dealer in Richmond. Took three hours for an oil change and tire rotation.
I run 5w30 in my 22 veloster N. Calls for 0w30 too. Trust me you’ll be ok. The 5w30 is actually a little better in most turbo cars
Isnt the number before the W denoting for temperature?
Yes, I’ll either run 0W-30 or 5W-30. It’s getting colder here so I’m happy I put the 0W-30 in, but maybe next summer I’ll try 5W-30.
Thanks for the information in this video. I just bought a 2023 Kona N. Wow, I'm starting to see quite a few negative videos concerning Hyundai issues.
Congrats on the KN! I know these videos seem scary, but the car had been fantastic, the dealership experience is what sucks.
Thanks for this. As you probably already know 0-20 weight is an emissions-mileage prerequisite. I assume the N has the 2.0 T GDI engine (Turbocharged). I would never ever use 0-20 in a turbo motor. There are a whole slew of reasons. I have owned and built 5 high performance turbo vehicles. Typically I would run 0-40 in them. They were all factory long blocks with bolt ons and or turbo modifications.
I recently got a 2022 Hyundai Santa Cruz. (2.5 NA GDI). Changed the oil out at 1k miles. Used 0-20 Syn. Noticed that it was about 1/4 Qt low. No biggie. At 4500K I took it into the dealer for its first dealer oil change. After waiting half an hour with only one car in line ahead of me for service (It was now 1/2 hour past my appointment time) I was told it would take them 3 1/2 hours to do the oil change. After a few minutes speaking w the woman running service check in, I suspected that she knew absolutely nothing about automobile tech. I told her that I would just do the change myself.
In changing out the oil, I noted that it was a full 1 quart low! Again, I used 0-20 full syn.
At this point I have a very low confidence in Hyundai, especially after reading of a recent spate of ECU generated engine failures in both the 2.0t GDI and as I understand it, the 2.5 NA GDI.
Really is a shame, because over all, Hyundai does great builds on their present day vehicle lineup. But when the service network does stuff like this, it really makes the 100K warranty valueless.
It has to do with who they are hiring and the training. seems like no one cares about their jobs anymore
Holy smokes that’s concerning. I’ll just do my own oil changes so I can monitor the oil consumption. I actually enjoy doing it myself, but I got sucked into the 3 year free service. But you’re absolutely right. What’s the point of a warranty if the damn dealership network isn’t even following the service manual?!!
I used to work for a ford dealer. It’s not just Hyundai, most dealers do not give a tihs about you or your car after the sale. Especially on higher maintenance models. Service departments will spew that oh it’s got a warranty crap all day long until something goes wrong. Then they turn on you and say it’s all your fault. My recommendation is if you if you don’t have the time or knowledge to service your car. Buy the right oil’s and filter’s yourself and take it to the shop of your choice.
Agree. I’ll be performing my own maintenance going forward.
Way too many ppl refer to these cars as "N-line" as if N-lines are the top of the range...I keep having to remind ppl that "N" is the performance model.
I actually wish they would kill off the "line" nomenclature...it really just serves to confuse everyone.
Absolutely agree! All the manufacturers do the same sort of confusing trim naming though, nit just a Hyundai thing.
My Hyundai dealer is "allowed" to do the free oil changes on my Santa Cruz and my son's Elantra, but I don't let them touch my Veloster N. I'd rather pay for the oil and filter and do the work myself than risk anything. Since it is a track car, I'm changing oil every 3000. The oil that comes out is still honey colored but I don't care.
5W-30 full synthetic is what I use. But I don't drive it in the winter. 20W for a N that is going to run hard is no bueno!
I own a veloster n. I have cyber grey EN in transport. I only use 5w30-5w40syn in the summer and in the winter ONLY use 0W30 syn. I use the thicker oil for summer for the heat and thinner oil for the winter when it is cold
That sounds about right. Probably what I’ll do.
0W30 may be the recommended oil, but with Hyundais and German vehicles in particular, there are a couple compatible oil types. I don’t know about your Elantra, but most of their lineup can run 5W20 or 5W30.
All shops prefer to use their bulk oil rather than ordering out for specialty oil. It’s why your Elantra had 0W20 put in it. It’s why most shops put 0W20 in modern Toyotas rather than 0W16. In the end it’s more cost effective and it still meets manufacturer specifications.
While I agree it’s more cost effective, that doesn’t mean it’s ok. Going up in viscosity from 0W-16 to 0W-20 isn’t a big deal, but going down viscosity from 0W-20 to 0W-30 is. And again, without something in writing from Hyundai saying those oil viscosities are acceptable, because of the lack of knowledge from the service department and Customer Care, I’d rather stick to what I know is 100% the correct oil to use in case I do have some sort of issue down the road.
@@n-power-automotive I knew I should have used the German car instance rather than Toyota. Most BMWs can run 5W30 or 5W40 Euro synthetic.
Those that work directly in the industry (part stores, dealerships, retail service shops and etc) can confidently make such statements because their guides allow for tolerances established by the manufacturer, something the owner’s manual would never include.
Would you really want to confuse a DIY car owner with more possible options or keep it simply limited to a single choice?
@@dirgeofdementia I would think they’d word “0W-30 recommend, but 0W-20 and 5W-30 are acceptable alternatives” or something along that line. I’ve seen manuals that list fluid spec variations like that, like 91 octane recommend for maximum performance, but 87 octane is acceptable. The fact that my manual says 0W-30 only and the Customer Care agent was reading something completely different is what concerns me the most.
@@n-power-automotive Fair enough. I’m just kind of curious why they wouldn’t have used 5W30 if they didn’t have the 0W30.
@@dirgeofdementia exactly. I would have been ok with 5W-30. The 0W-20 to me though was unacceptable.
I took my SI in for it's first oil change and the tech said he'd been doing his job for nearly a decade and had never heard about a break in period, which is also in the manual.
Yikes
My Kia manual is a bit contradictory on the break in period. In one sentence, it says the engine doesn't require a special break in period. In the next, it tells you to vary RPM and not race the engine for a certain number of miles...kinda like a break in period.
They're almost certainly looking at the N-Line / other Elantra models. No image you provided showed the 2.0 T-GDi, they're all looking at the 1.6 for the N-Line.
That’s what I am suspecting, too.
I really like the Elantra N, and up till a few weeks ago was going to order a 2023 Elantra N. But I am having second thoughts after hearing about the issues some of the 2022 "N" vehicles are having. Broken rocker arms, blown engines and a DCT recall. I really want to see what is being done before I purchase a brand-new vehicle if they are not going to have good service and support for these cars. Thanks for posting this video, and helping me understand the mess I maybe wading through if I go with a Elantra N.
You’re welcome. Broken rocker arms though? I haven’t heard that one.
They have been using this iteration of the Theta II in the VN, KN and the i30N and there have not been many problems reported. As for the DCT recall, it is just a software update, which being a newer car, is no big deal. There will always be recalls and TSB's for new models. I have a 21 WRX Premium and i'm actually going tomorrow to look at a 23 PB VN and will gladly make the trade if the test drive goes well.
most dealership lube techs don't know anything about the actual cars sold there, They're just there to work on whatever car comes in so no surprise they don't know what the Elantra N is
100% agree!
My dealer lets me bring my own oil. I pay for the shop fees and tech to do the work. No harm no foul, keep the rest of ya want!
I know a lot of people do that. I done mind changing my own oil, but when a brand offers free maintenance I figure why not let them do it. But not knowing if they’re doing what they’re supposed to be doing is what I don’t like.
Good idea, but who knows if the tech just keeps the good oil for themself and gives you the bulk oil....
@@jasonoshima6839 good point, I mean I suppose a person can test this but the tech usually comes out and asks if I want to keep the last few drops or not. So much trust lost in service departments 😭😭😭
I’ve had many Hyundai cars in the past and do all my own oil changes in fact my 13 sonata turbo was tuned to 365hp I ran 0w40 because it’s a better oil under loads regardless of what the sticker says if you drive it hard it gets hotter you need an oil that won’t break down. Most oil recommendations are for MPGs you can run several different weights within reason and your environment
Awesome. I’m definitely going to be changing the oil myself going forward. Thanks.
I have no clue how they managed to fuck that up, it legit says what oil it needs all over the car, like do they just not care?😂
Unfortunately it seems that way lol.
there is a reason that guy is lube tech. chicken brains he got
@@rayj33 solid point lol, but the dealership is ultimately deciding which oil they stock.
This is one reason I got the 2022 Kona EV. No oil and 1 service in a year at $67 Canadian. Plus I charge at home at $20 a month and save $ 500 a month on Premium gas, Good luck.
Definitely economical, but the Elantra N is all about fun.
I wouldn’t worry much on the oil grade 0w20 is better on cold climates, but i would worry more on the oil change intervals shouldn’t go pass 4k miles thats more importante on a gdi engine, another thing castrol ,mobil 1, amsoil and penzoil full synthetic oils are what i prefer on my cars , not saying the others are bad but ive always had high boosted cars so thats my take, more than 4k miles is the best time to change the oil if you want to maintain the interior of the engine spot clean .
Actually 0W-20 and 0W-30 are rated exactly the same in cold climates. The W in 0W stands for winter, so they both flow as a 0 viscosity oil (thin) in cold weather. The 20 and 30 stand for when the oil is at full temperature, so the 30 would protect more being it stays at 30 viscosity, where the 20 would be thinner at 20 viscosity. But regardless, they’re probably both fine and I’m just being over analytical about it because that’s what I do lol. Thanks for the comment!
Penzoil Plat is proven better, just wanted to note that
@@AltoTheGod that’s the 0W-30 I used.
@@n-power-automotive not true. Start looking at flow rate and viscosity numbers. if you just wanna feel it pour 0w20, 0w30, 0w50 and see which cup empties faster. Take a garden hose for example, if you squeeze for more pressure or low pressure, you get what you want. Your engine is designed to use 0w30. 0w20 is thin- thin=low oil pressure=more wear. Engine thats suppose to last 200k might last 120k instead but yeah you are covered under warranty untill it isnt anymore. wear happens over time not 1 day or 1 week
@@rayj33 that’s pretty much what I said; the 0W-30 should protect better than the 0W-20. As far as how much more is probably up for debate.
Sorry to hear about your bad dealer experience. I take my vehicle to the dealer for oil changes and warranty work only. I mark the oil filter, oil pan plug, cabin filter and air filter to make sure the work is done. It takes them a minimum 1 hour to complete the service. 15 minutes to change the oil is not enough time to drain, fill and check the fluid levels. Don't go back to that dealer.
Very smart! I probably won’t be going back.
Hyundai has really dropped in service and customer satisfaction. I live in the UK and own a 2010 i30 CRD, which to date has been a great car, no issues at all. I have always had helix oil in it. Both Hyundai and Kia are in recent times having a lot of issues and losing customers. The company worked hard in the first years to get things right but of late have gone backwards, When I come to replace my car I will be looking around in general
I completely agree with you. They spent so much time and effort on improving their manufacturing reputation, they finally get there, and then they drop the ball by having poor customer service and dealers. It’s a shame.
Hyundai Australia seems to still have a great reputation as far as I can tell. A lot of the issues that were happening in USA don't seem to have been an issue downunder. I hope that continues.
@@Fanta.... might be time to move lol. Expect you guys have all those scary snakes and spiders!
Problem is that when buying bulk oil, companies right now are on back order, just because you can buy it online, doesn't mean you can buy 50-100 gallons to refill storage tanks. Any oil from shell is extremely difficult to find.
I did my first oil change 3 days ago at 1200miles cause of break in period and I was worried of this exact thing so what I ended up doing was buying oil filters and crush ring at dealership cause no one else had it in the area and for oil I ended up using mobile 1 0w30 and the car has been awesome.
Yep 0W-30 is hard to find. I ended up going with Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-30 and same, the car runs great.
That's a complete waste of money to put full synthetic in any car that's not ultra high performance. As long as it meets the manufacturer spec and rating you can use the cheapest oil you can find. And as long as you maintain the intervals which on most cars is $7,500 mi now your engine will be fine
@@n-power-automotive
I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in my last car. I haven't been able to get 0W30 anywhere so I've been getting Mobil 1 and bringing it to my dealer, even for the free services.
@@ubeuonly don’t speak please your not intelligent enough in this area
A long long time ago I had to take my Ford Falcon EL 1998 (Australia ) back to the dealership for a noisy A/C compressor. They decided that it was noisy and replaced the compressor. I was not happy in the fact that they did not replace the receiver drier or flushed the system for contaminants (as required by the Motor Vehicle Repair Industry Council, the regulatory body) I know they did not flush it as we used to flush the A/C systems for them at my Auto Electrical workshop. About twelve months later, you guessed it a loud screeching noise as the compressor grenaded itself and seized. I took the car back to the workshop and relaced the compressor, the condenser, drier ,TX valve and flushed the system. The car did over 600,000 km on the third compressor.
My dealer sent me a mailer for 20% off parts or service. I went to get some oil filter as I plan to do all oil changes for my Kona N and they straight up tried to weasel their way out of the discount. Service manager later came to me to give me 1 free filter that didn't even belong to my car when I was going to get like 4-5 filters. Single filter was also worth less than the discount. On top of all this, the parts rep asked me if my car was full electric when I was trying to point out I had the Kona N. It also seems they skipped doing scheduled 6K maintenance when I took my car in to get turbo hose and wireless pad replaced. My outlook is bleak
As for oil, my dealer uses 0W-20 and manual only list 0W-30, also listing a brand not available in the US. It took some real work to get Hyundai to reply to my question on the manual/dealer disparity and what oil weights would work on my engine. They finally told me 5W-30 is compatible, telling me info came from quality service engineer team.
Oils I have in my room after a run around-> Mobile1 AFE 0W-30, Kirkland 5W-30, Castrol Edge 0W-20, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30. I'm sending all oil changes to Blackstone labs and I'll keep using whatever comes back looking the best.
Not the same type of car but my experience so far with Corp/dealer and the car itself has me wanting to trade it for a 16-18 BMW M2. Octane learning is such a pain, just let me select I'll always be using premium.
Wow that’s an awesome idea! Please report back with your findings. I’d love to know what ends up being the best brand/weight!
@@n-power-automotive Sure brother, I'm at 10k miles right now, changed factory oil at 3k and then changed oil at 6k and 9k so far. I'm going to wait for all the wear metals flush out before I compare them so it'll take some time but I'll try to update you if I keep the car long enough to use them all and get the reports back.
@@carloscervantes836 awesome, I appreciate it.
@@n-power-automotive One thing I notice so far is no odd engine start up noise with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum. Lab says it's also in spec for viscosity. Apparently factory oil and Kirkland 5W-30 weren't in spec. Car is currently about to hit 15K miles, 3K oil and filter changes.
@@carloscervantes836 that’s great! I’m planning on going with 5W-30 Pennzoil Ultra Platinum next oil change.
A while after I had the oil changed on my 2016 Hyundai Tucson at our dealership I had my oil plug come out on the highway and emptied out the car. The car was towed to Hyundai and they said it was fine. We would call for service but never hear back. The service center used to be awesome but it really took a dive!
I loved my Hyundai and wanted to trade in for a Palisade but we decided on 2023 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Premium because the Hyundai service department was practically inaccessible. I had to drive 30 miles one way to talk to someone in person because I could not get a response over the phone from them.
What a nightmare situation! They screwed up the easiest part of an oil change. Hope your 4Runner treats you well. They’re great trucks for sure!
I have a Kona N and had the same invoice wich says 0w20 synthetic oil. The advisor told me that they don't have the 0w30 ''maintenance package'' in the invoice system so on the invoice it says 0w20. I was very sceptical and he finally decided to show me that they had 0w30 quaker state oil and that the mechanics use the oil grade that is written on the oil cap. In this case, it is 0w30.
Weird. So they just put 0W-20 but in actuality they used 0W-30???
@@n-power-automotive If all the Service sku programming is done by head office, I can kinda understand if it's something that isn't high on their list of priorities. Especially true if they actually have 0w30 out back and use it, and 0w20 is listed as a suitable similar substitute.
@@Fanta.... right but they never said to me we actually put 0W-30 in but we don’t list it in our computers. They definitely said they used 0W-20.
We have a Hyundai Elantra Limited with free oil changes. Our dealership wont even schedule the work until we're within a few hundred miles from the due date and then magically their schedule is booked out for several months. They said off-cycle, past the due date, oil changes will void the warranty etc. We decided to randomly show up as a regular paying customer one day. Sure enough their schedule was completely free for that day. They have time for paid work but not "free" work that was offered at the time of purchase.
I'm with you. Engineers spend a ton of time and energy determining what oil goes with what engine. The service tech is stupid or lazy or both.
It goes way above the techs, it’s on the dealership owner and/or manager trying to save $$$ getting the more low cost oil.
The lighter weight formulations exist due to 3 main reasons, ONE. Engine technology has gotten better over the years, TWO, they can use lighter weight oils to improve gas mileage, and THREE, oil formulation technology has vastly improved. The only real danger in using a heavier weight oil than factory specs (ie Using a 10-W30 , 20W-50 etc) when a 0-20-0-30 is called for, is it can mess up the variable valve timing which normally uses oil pressure to function correctly. Using a too heavy a weight can cause the system to operate incorrectly.
0W-30 is the same cost as any other regular oil weight and I would probably have left the dealership if he said it’s more expensive 🤣🤣
I wish you were right, but 0W-30 is most definitely more expensive than 0W-20 or 5W-30.
obviously didn't watch the video
Shell helix is very hard to find in the USA. Stick with a 5w30.
@@Terror1Void yeah it’s pretty much impossible to get.
I own a Porsche 981 GTS and a Hyundai Elantra GT Sport. After 12 months of ownership, I could see some clear coat damage evolving on the black painted roof spoiler (hatch back). I went to the closest Hyundai dealership and experienced the exact same service attitude (saying that loss of clear coat is normal - there is nothing "we" can do etc.) When I expressed my dissatisfaction with their refusal to service this issue, I was basically kicked out of this dealership. Fortunately, I found another Hyundai dealership who ultimately corrected and re-painted the spoiler. While this issue is not at all related to the oil service, it does show the lousy service attitude that exists in Hyundai dealerships. I now service my car outside of the dealership and the last 3 years of ownership has been great. I somehow feel that Hyundai cars can be exceptional value, and some models like my 2018 Hyundai Elantra GT sport are even great driving cars (absolutely competitive to a VW Golf), but Hyundai Motor Corp should ensure more consistent and much better service quality within their dealerships.
That’s definitely what I’m coming to the conclusion of regarding Hyundai. Great cars, terrible dealership network. I’ve decided to do my own service going forward as I’ve serviced my own cars before the Elantra N. I enjoying working on my cars so to me it’s not a big deal, but to those who purchased one that are not mechanically inclined, it could be a reason to leave Hyundai. Thanks for the comment!
Herd a few people having warranty claims denied on theses. One I watched recently was an auto and unmodified. They claimed it was denied because it was over reved. Which shouldn’t be possible. Smart move and good catch
Yeah I made a video on that situation. I’m starting to hear from others he wasn’t stock. I might make a follow up video on it.
I usually do my own oil changes on my 2020 Palisade and yes, in order to preserve warranty, you need to keep records. I store photocopies of my records on my Hyundai website where the dealer also tracks their service records. At times, I will bring the vehicle in for an oil change/service appointment, and the first time I did it, they didn’t tighten down the oil filter housing, started the engine and blew oil all over the underside of the vehicle. They didn’t tell me about that, but I realized something was wrong when I found oil dripping on my driveway and then saw the underside of the vehicle coated with oil. I have no idea if they ran the engine out of oil, but of course, they said it was only momentary. I told them they needed to document that issue on my service record, but they didn’t do that. I also worry about the oil they’ll put in my vehicle, but at this dealer, they told me I can bring in my own oil (always name brand full synthetic) and they’ll charge me a service fee. This way I can also get my tires rotated, save a little money on the oil change, and at the same time, have them document that service was done, thereby protecting the warranty.
Im assuming there’s a reason you took it to Hyundai (it’s free for 2 years (correct if wrong)) but I just bought a new truck and still won’t even take my truck to Toyota,
Honestly I might take it there so that my carfax service record looks pretty then immediately change it myself (I have free changes for some time so it won’t cost me anything to waste their garbage oil and filter)
That’s exactly why. I have changed my oil on every car I’ve owned. This was the first time I brought it to a dealer for an oil change. Hyundai gives 3 years, 36,000 miles free maintenance. And I thought having the service show up on CARFAX would help with resale down the road. It doesn’t bother me too much to just do it myself after they do it. At least I get a free up filter and washer out of it ha ha.
I would have lost it and said- its your one job. Just rent a local lift for 30 mins and DIY. i never trust someone to do car work without scamming me/ over charging/ parts cannoning. I have so much exprience fixing my always broken old audis and GTI's. This oil change that I did at 1300 was a cake walk lmao. I love how it doesnt have plastic pan under the engine. It makes it 3 step job - Lift, drain and fill. 5.2 quarts you are golden. 0w30 mobil 1 is always at autozone but yeah its expensive
Yep it’s a very simple car to change your own oil on. I almost thought for a minute they forgot to put a plastic splash guard back on under the engine after doing the oil change, but then I confirmed from photos online that it doesn’t come with one. I have always changed my own oil but when Hyundai offers free complimentary maintenance for 3 years I figured why not.
This is exactly why I always do my own oil changes! I despise dealers.
Feeling that way too!
Do you have any advice on that? Should I use OEM filter? Will I keep warranty?
im a mechanic at a hyundai dealer and were a pretty shitty dealer as far as how old the building is. but whatever the cap says we put in! we use 0-30 on the n's, the new santa fes with the 2.5t, the sonata n line etc...whatever the cap says is what you get. this dealer was for sure cheaping out. so how oil is read the "0" in 0w-30 is thickness of viscoscity when its cold. so the diffrence between 0w-20 and 0w-30 when the engine is cold is no diffrence. but the second number is operating temp which is very important 30 is much thicker and much better for the performence part of the engine.
You are safer with 0W30. Your engine (oil pump) might have a bit harder time pushing it through the system, but since it's ticker, it should lube the engine better (especially the crankshaft bearings and camshafts).
However, "fuel pump will work harder" actually means that it will work with the oil weight it was designed for lol. Anyway, nothing to concern about, even if it wasn't designed for that oil weight.
Just don't put 10W or 15W oils in, and you'll be fine 😁
0w/30 doesn't sound that thick at all tbh. The 0 weight sounds like it'll run very good cold. 30 rating at higher temp doesn't seem too bad tbh. Lots of modern cars are 5w30 or some European doing 0w20 or some water-like shit.
A lot of people dont understand oil viscosity, lets say the dealer put in 15w 40, would you be sweating thinking the oil is to "thick"?
I put 15w50 in my van 2021 Sedona that called for 5w30. Not too long ago, all cars ran 20w50 all over the USA. Engines are very tolerant of oil weight.
@@Terror1Void it all depends on the engine design. Here is something to get you thinking
czcams.com/video/IKdhgKUZhPA/video.html
This isn't 1978.
We’ve had nothing but good luck with Hyundai, there’s 6 of them in our family. 2 Santa Fe’s, 1 Sonata, 1 Palisade, 2 Tucsons. The dealer here is great.
Just added a 2022 Kia Sorrento EX.
After years of other brands I’ll stick to Hyundai.
I had to drive over 100 miles when my Mom was dying most every other day. When my elantra had a major issue the service manager literally screamed at me, told me to rent a damn car if I needed one so bad and said I could drive it (could not) drove down the road, traded it for a Chevy (that dealer has impeccable service) and won't do business with Hyundai again.
That’s terrible. I don’t blame you for going to a different brand.
I do my own oil changes… takes 20 minutes, use the oil recommended by the car maker, and do it every 5000 miles, synthetic oil, only for big issues my car goes to the dealership. If u can’t do ir own oil change buy the oil filter and oil from walmart, and ask ur trusted mechanic to do it
The oil recommended in the manual is what should be used. However for all vehicle models, there will be a chart showing a range of oils that can be used under different ambient temperatures and oil availabilities. In a modern car manual it is possible that they leave that chart out to prevent confusion of the populous. ( most people never look at there manual) and if they do they just want (1) answer. My 09 accent can take 5w20 5w30 or 10w30 or 10w40
I would have gotten in writing from the dealer stating that putting 0-w20 will not void warranty. That way if anything happens the dealer is responsible.
I bought mine after comparison research. the Elantra is one of the best cars for the home mechanic. that's one of the main reasons I bought it. the Jetta was maybe the second contender, but parts prices won out.
Interesting analysis. I didn’t think about that when I bought mine, but it really makes a lot of sense.
On my Bayon, the 1.0T i also have the Helix. The car now has 10k KM, so its due to first change in 5k KM. Those videos are a great help!
You’re welcome! Glad the video helped. Where part of the world do you live in? I’ve never heard of a Bayon.
@@n-power-automotive Slowenia, Europe. It is a Europe Specific model i think, an SUV based on the i20. It is a brand new model.
On BMW's you can use Mobil 1 0w40 or castrol 5w40 (same as OEM) because both pass BMW longlife 01 requirements.
I would not use 0w30 under any circumstances. If you are going to have cold weather like Canada use 5w30 and if you live in the southern US or plan on tracking the car use 10w30
I’ll probably be running 5w30 in the summer, but will stick with 0w30 in the winter.
I had a 2005 Santa Fe which I bought new and ran until 2013. Best vehicle I ever owned ( I have owned around 15 cars in my lifetime). It went 450,000kms with no repairs other than tires and brakes when needed. No belt changes, no leaks, no exhaust issues, no tuneups. Just oil changes, brakes and tires.
Well thats kind of like my outback. Says to use 0w 20 but almost everyone on the forums say it eats through 0w20. Well did sone digging and found out that it can take 5w30 and that usually solves the issue. However it usually causes about a half mpg decline. Brurning oil is way worse than a half an mpg in my opinion. Been using for 80k miles no and no issues
Personally I've had a good experience with Hyundai's service department so far on my 2012 N/A Veloster. However the Kia dealership across the street is exactly the way you've described the Hyundai dealership in this experience. They took my '06 Elantra in to the Kia dealer to fix the blower motor for the AC. I come back a week later after bumming rides from people when they told me to pick the car up. I pay them, get in the car, turn on the heat and the blower still isn't working. I go back inside furious, because I'm late for work because of this shit. Apparently they FORGOT to take the car into the shop at all, didn't do ANY work on it, and charged me for it. I made them refund me and replaced the blower motor myself with help from my dad.
Meanwhile Hyundai didn't charge me for a part or diagnostics because I figured out the problem myself, bought a part that ended up being DOA and took it to Hyundai since I didn't wanna jack the car up again to try another aftermarket part. They swapped the Crankshaft Sensor with an OEM one, and only charged me for the install which was $70. Finding the OEM part online was $120 just for the part, not including diagnostics and labor, so I'm very happy with them so far.
Super rare to find a Hyundai dealership that has served you as well as it has. And typically the comments here have alluded to Kia having better service, but obviously not in your case. You just never know.
I own a Holden Calais 6.0L V8 Sedan (from Australia) and it states clearly in the manual to only use 5W-30. I started looking closely at the service invoices and depending where the car was serviced, the oil used was usually 10W-40 or 20W-40. What I also noticed was the noisy lifters when the engine started cold. Very noisy. So, instead, I had my son-in-law who is a licensed mechanic to do all my services going forward. I too am anal with what is used and he knows the oil to be used must be full synthetic 5W-30. And now I have quiet lifters. Yes, it makes a big difference to the longevity of your engine.
One minor annoyance.....Hyundai is not pronounced as Hon-day. It is Hee-un-day.
Great example of why oil weight is so important. Thank you. Hyundai is actually pronounced differently in different parts of the world. Hyundai tweeted at some point that in America it’s pronounced “Hun-day” like “Sunday” so that’s how I say it.
I bought a used 2010 Elantra directly from the previous owner a few years back. The car experience itself has been fantastic: efficient, comfortable, and so reliable that the only maintenance I've had to do is oil changes and a new set of tires.
My Hyundai *_dealership_* experience, however, has been horrible. There's one Hyundai dealership within several hours' drive of my house and any time I've interacted with them they've been useless at best and willfully unpleasant at worst. My car is part of an ABS recall - the ABS module remains powered when the ignition is off, which they claim could cause an electrical fire if moisture enters the housing when the vehicle is parked. I've been receiving phone calls and letters for over two years now telling me to get the problem fixed free of charge at any Hyundai dealership, but every time I call the dealership to schedule the repair, they tell me the parts are out of stock and that they'll call back when they're available. They never do. I've been calling them every six months or so for *_two years_* and they keep giving me the runaround, all while the manufacturer sends me flyers claiming my car will burst into flames if I don't get the repair done ASAP. It's absurd.
Wow. I can’t believe your dealership is that incompetent. Have you tried calling Hyundai Customer Care to see if they can help? Or maybe you’ve already tried that and got similar results as I did? I’m glad to hear the car has been so good for you though. But with that issue lingering for 2 years, I’d be over it.
@@n-power-automotive I haven’t, but this video gave me the idea to try it! Will give it a shot this weekend.
At this point I’m convinced it’s intentional on the dealer’s part. My guess is that they have to place an order for the parts to perform the repair, but they don’t want to pay their service department for labor on a repair that they don’t make money on, so they’ve just never placed the order. I don’t know how the logistics of a manufacturer recall work though so that’s just a theory.
@@Sammie1053 yeah that’s not how it works. I do think they have to request the parts from Hyundai, but they don’t pay for them. Hyundai provides the parts at no cost and pay the dealership a prorated amount for the service labor. A lot of dealerships survive on warranty work, which makes me think they actually don’t care about oil or specs with the hope something will go wrong so they can fix it under warranty to continue paying their employees. That’s a just a theory of mine though. But what I’m suspecting in your case is the parts are either on back order or are hard to get, so they place and order, don’t get them and don’t follow up, and the order never gets fulfilled. Hopefully Customer Care can help expedite it for you!
I went to the dealer the first time and they told me It was full synthetic and they never did , They do a regular blend So I won’t trust them . A friend of mine also went for regular maintenance intervals and he’s about 22k miles and was told that next time would be free and after that he has to pay almost 22$ for every oil change. If you want synthetic you have to pay $40. He’s not even up for 36k miles or 3 years for them to stop doing the free oil services.