A bit more busy than I'll do for my bases but I like a lot of what you were showcasing. I hadn't thought about putting the crackle paste on top of the texture like you showed, I'll be trying that for my Orks.
Keep these videos going!! You will reach a critical mass of subscribers in no time. Bought a bunch of your stuff at At Ease Games in San Diego. I'm gonna base all my 40k and AOS armies moving forward with your stuff in a particular style that's a blend of highlands and overgrown ruins (with small bits relating to each army as well). Making all my terrain to match. Even have a lore answer for both fantasy and 40k regarding the world that its all taking place on. Great products!!
Hi Adam! Thank you for your comment and feedback! We will bear that in mind for upcoming videos! Please note that the actual paint color tone can vary slightly and achieve the same results. The idea is also to present the sequence of paces and techniques which you can use to create your themes! Feel free to try out new combinations! Happy hobbying!
Hello Rowan! Thank you very much for your comment and question! We created the brown wash ourselves for this theme, by adding water to "Amsterdam" Series acrylic brown paint. We didn't make it a very strong wash, but it should work fine with other brown wash paints too. Happy Hobbying!
Since you add the model after basing, how do you incorporate the model into the base scheme, if at all? Some pigment powder? Either way, awesome tutorial. I took notes to use for my project!
Hi! Thanks for commenting and for your feedback! :) That is a perfect way to incorporate the model, yes! We would say one of the easiest and most effective!
Hello! Thank you for your comment! Of course! The rocks are a kind of beige schist, and the sand (and tiny rocks) is made by grinding that same material. Using slate will do fine! And it also easily grinds for the same effect! Happy Hobbying!
Great tutorial! I like the finished look of those bases. Did you use pigment binder when you put the pigment on? It looks like it is just pigment,but how does it stay there and doesn't get loose? PVA glue later or by varnish? (did you use varnish to protect it?)
Hello! Thank you for reaching out! We just applied it by pressing the brush repeatedly, this way grinding the pigment against the surfaces. But you can use a varnish or a pigment fixer to seal them and prevent them from getting loose. We noticed that some pigment colors stay there better than others :)
Hi Nicolas! Thank you for your feedback! We used watered down PVA glue for both those reasons. It is more than enough to glue the sand and gravel, and in addition it also improves the overall resistance of the various materials.
Hello! Thank you so much for commenting! We didn't use putty for this theme. The first paste we use is the "Dry Earth" Texture from AMMO by MIG Jimenez, but you can use similar pastes for this :) Hope this helps! Happy Hobbying!
Hello! We used two different primers. First we coated all the bases with Dunkel Gelb (Fosco Industries) and then Desert (from the same brand) lightly just to create more light :)
did you put the iron earth down while the previous layer of texture was still wet, please? is this how you achieved those gorgeous cracks? I thought they looked a lot thicker than what you usually get with those crackle paints.
Hello! No, first we let the ground texture dry, before applying the crackle paste. One thing we can recommend though (and actually didn't do in this video, but you can see it in our Burnt Lava Bases video) is to apply a layer of PVA glue to the surface too, before applying the crackle paste (letting the pva glue fully dry or almost fully dry when you apply the crackle). In most cases this can help to improve the crackle effect. Thanks for your question!
Hi J William! For the red crackle effect on the ground we used Citadel Martian Ironcrust. For the rough sand texture, we used Dry Earth Ground Texture from AMMO by MIG Jimenez.
Is that dry earth from ammo just straight out of the pot or did you have to add any pigments or powders to it? I’m not familiar with their line. In some of their tutorial videos for the dry earth product they add a bunch of stuff to it then mix
Hi Ben! Thank you for your comment! Sorry for the delay, your comment got lost in the queue! Yes! The dry earth is straight from the pot. We didn't add any pigments since we aimed to prime and paint everything afterwards. You can add water or white glue to it too, depending on the level/size of grain texture you wish to achieve. We usually don't add anything though.
At 2:23 what were those 3 paints for anyways? They didn’t seem to be used for dry brushing or anything so were all 3 mixed together for the rock color or something?
Hi! Thank you very much for your question! Yes! they were the colors used to paint the rocks in the following take. It's always a good idea to paint the rocks by blending two or three tones of the desired color (in this case brown) to add detail and variation to the color.
@@GamersGrass Ok that's very smart. Big fan of y'alls bases from how realistic they look. This video was what got me into your grass lol. I am glad this tutorial exists too since it seems arid bases are not for sale anymore/yet?
Hello Benjamin! thank you very much for your comment and question! The paints we used there were Vallejo: Flat Earth, Flat Brown and Burnt Umber. Please note that you don't have to use the exact same paints to achieve the same results, if you blend similar colors it will definitely work fine. Thank you! Happy Hobbying!
The Pigment on the laser plant was a nice touch. So will the pigment adhere to the plant without having to use anything else? I haven't used my pigments much yet. What I used to do with them was create a sort of wash with isopropanol, and then get it into details on vehicles. It would dry like regular pigment, but was great for being able to get into details. I wasn't sure how to apply them in the powder form, properly. I always assumed you'd need to use a spray varnish or something to get them to adhere. So do they just sort of dry where you put them or something please? I see you use lots of pigments in their powder form, so hopefully you can help me here.
Hello! Thank you for the question! Yes, we usually just apply the pigment dry, by pressing it against the surface. This way it paints the surface with enough pigment for it to remain there, since we usually apply it in horizontal surfaces, or better yet, crevices and holes (etc..). If you would like to use it in more vertical areas, then we would suggest applying some pigment fixer either with a brush or airbrush, so that it strengthens it and keeps it in place. We hope this helps!
Hi is it good idea to substitute "Dry Earth Texture from AMMO by MIG Jimenez" with "Vallejo Acrylics: Earth Texture - Brown Earth" or they behave differently?. Its a bit hard to buy AMMO stuff at my place.
On the arid steppe bases what color is being used on the bases? I have bought many steppe bases but I'm trying to convert some bases to look like them and can't get a good color match. Any help would be awesome.
Hi Tanner! Thank you for your comment! For the Arid Steppes we do not use the usual hobby paints so I cannot give you an exact match, but you could mimic it with something like this: - You can use our Basing Bits, Rocks to create the rocky parts - With a texture paint give it some form to the ground. (like Vallejo Earth Texture) - Paint it in a dark beige colour (a mix of Citadel Ushabti Bone and Karak Stone) - Drybrush with the same colour but a little lighter (mixed with a bit of white) - Gently Drybrush with pure white in the higher areas (stones) Finish with the following tufts Light Brown (6mm) Beige (6mm)
Hello :) thanks for the insanely helpful video guide, triggered me a lot. One question i didnt already find answered below: What pigments did you use for the arid base in particular? cheers
What product is that sand that you sprinkle over bases at 1:44-1:48? It is to powdery for natural sand so I guess it is rather some very fine sand. Could you tell me please what you have used?
Hello! Thank you for your question! We picked some earth and sand from a nearby rock outcrop, so we guess it has some powdered rock in the mixture as well. The trick is to sieve the earth you find, you end up getting the finer grains out almost all kinds of earth/sands :)
Hello! thanks for commenting! I think ours was nearing the end of the pot, and it had some time already, so it was more pasty. We since got some more for the other videos, and result is the same in the end :)
Hello! Thanks for reaching out! We put the dry effect only when the previous paste was dry. However if you are having some difficulties with the crackle effect, there is the option to apply a layer of pva glue on the surface (and letting it dry) before applying the crackle paste. This can help it crackle more. (We do it this way on the burned lava bases basing guide video, if you want to check). We hope this helps, happy hobbying!
I think you'd have good results with Krylon matte river rock and a quick dry brush of any lighter beige acrylic. Some of these specialty brands are amazing but very expensive to have delivered in the States.
Hello! Thank you for reaching out! We use super glue (cyanoacrylate) to glue the miniature to the bases. Note that it is always important to adapt the bases to the figures you are planning to use them on. This is good to bear in mind during the whole process of creating the base. There are several ways to do this. The easiest way is simply to keep checking the position of the miniatures feet (or what holds it to the base) in relation to the spots where you glue the rocks and other elements. You can also glue the miniature after painting the base, but before applying the tufts. This can help you have more option of space. Simply choose the spots for the tufts after the miniature is fixed :) Thank you again! Any other question you may have don't hesitate to contact us! Happy Hobbying!
What is the best glue to fix a miniature to those fully coverd bases? I plan on magnetizing the bases but if the magnets turn out stronger, than the glue connection of the model to the base, I will rip the models from the bases every time. Any suggestion?
Hello! Thanks for your comment :) We suggest using Super glue, it's overall the best solution when gluing models to bases and usually works very well. If your models and bases are made of plastic, you can always find ways to use plastic glue (the one that melts and joins the two pieces), which is even stronger, but to use this you would have to leave a blank space in each base (where the model touches it) to glue the miniature, or glue them before preparing and painting the base :) We hope this helps! Happy hobbying!
A bit more busy than I'll do for my bases but I like a lot of what you were showcasing. I hadn't thought about putting the crackle paste on top of the texture like you showed, I'll be trying that for my Orks.
This is the desert base I have been looking for! I never considered laser plants before but now I see that they are an absolute must.
The base theme and the music is giving me the goodsprings chill
Fantastic. This basing guide series is spot on.
Love these full basing tutorials! Please do more!
Really nice ! Great job.
Absolutely perfect for what I need to do to my desert bases.
amazing guide, really like these videos incorporating GG in various terrain types
thank you so much, been wanting a desert base for my BA marines..these are great..
Keep these videos going!! You will reach a critical mass of subscribers in no time. Bought a bunch of your stuff at At Ease Games in San Diego. I'm gonna base all my 40k and AOS armies moving forward with your stuff in a particular style that's a blend of highlands and overgrown ruins (with small bits relating to each army as well). Making all my terrain to match. Even have a lore answer for both fantasy and 40k regarding the world that its all taking place on. Great products!!
Looks great
Beautifull
Really nice!
Very nice. I love your grass tufts but the lazer plants are expensive for the little that you get....
Best basing tutorials on CZcams!
These videos are great, but you need to be way clearer about what paints/textures/pigments you've actually used.
Hi Adam! Thank you for your comment and feedback!
We will bear that in mind for upcoming videos! Please note that the actual paint color tone can vary slightly and achieve the same results. The idea is also to present the sequence of paces and techniques which you can use to create your themes!
Feel free to try out new combinations!
Happy hobbying!
Thank you for the vid such great job! What kind of brown "wash" did you use? Thank you so much just got my Agave laser cut thanks to this vid ;)
Hello Rowan! Thank you very much for your comment and question!
We created the brown wash ourselves for this theme, by adding water to "Amsterdam" Series acrylic brown paint. We didn't make it a very strong wash, but it should work fine with other brown wash paints too.
Happy Hobbying!
@@GamersGrass Thank you for your answer! So it's a super diluted brown paint. I'll try it thank you !
Since you add the model after basing, how do you incorporate the model into the base scheme, if at all? Some pigment powder?
Either way, awesome tutorial. I took notes to use for my project!
Hi! Thanks for commenting and for your feedback! :)
That is a perfect way to incorporate the model, yes! We would say one of the easiest and most effective!
Could you tell me what rocks and sand you used? .... the only thing i can seem to find is cork and slate rocks. Love these bases by the way.
Hello! Thank you for your comment!
Of course! The rocks are a kind of beige schist, and the sand (and tiny rocks) is made by grinding that same material. Using slate will do fine! And it also easily grinds for the same effect!
Happy Hobbying!
Great tutorial! I like the finished look of those bases. Did you use pigment binder when you put the pigment on? It looks like it is just pigment,but how does it stay there and doesn't get loose? PVA glue later or by varnish? (did you use varnish to protect it?)
Hello! Thank you for reaching out!
We just applied it by pressing the brush repeatedly, this way grinding the pigment against the surfaces. But you can use a varnish or a pigment fixer to seal them and prevent them from getting loose. We noticed that some pigment colors stay there better than others :)
Thanks for the video, good work 👍
At 1:20 the PVA glue is just to glue the gravel or to fix the texture on the base ?
Hi Nicolas! Thank you for your feedback!
We used watered down PVA glue for both those reasons. It is more than enough to glue the sand and gravel, and in addition it also improves the overall resistance of the various materials.
Been looking for this exact base concept. What was the putty like material that you put on the base before martial ironearth?
Hello! Thank you so much for commenting!
We didn't use putty for this theme. The first paste we use is the "Dry Earth" Texture from AMMO by MIG Jimenez, but you can use similar pastes for this :)
Hope this helps! Happy Hobbying!
I really like your products! I want to use this type of base for my ork army. Could you tell me what "sand" primer you used?
Hello! We used two different primers. First we coated all the bases with Dunkel Gelb (Fosco Industries) and then Desert (from the same brand) lightly just to create more light :)
@@GamersGrass Wow, thank you for the response, that was fast! 😅
did you put the iron earth down while the previous layer of texture was still wet, please? is this how you achieved those gorgeous cracks? I thought they looked a lot thicker than what you usually get with those crackle paints.
Hello!
No, first we let the ground texture dry, before applying the crackle paste.
One thing we can recommend though (and actually didn't do in this video, but you can see it in our Burnt Lava Bases video) is to apply a layer of PVA glue to the surface too, before applying the crackle paste (letting the pva glue fully dry or almost fully dry when you apply the crackle). In most cases this can help to improve the crackle effect.
Thanks for your question!
@@GamersGrass thank you.
What brand texture paint is that, the dry earth ground? This is so good!
The tutorial is so good, to be clear heh
Hi J William! For the red crackle effect on the ground we used Citadel Martian Ironcrust. For the rough sand texture, we used Dry Earth Ground Texture from AMMO by MIG Jimenez.
Is that dry earth from ammo just straight out of the pot or did you have to add any pigments or powders to it? I’m not familiar with their line. In some of their tutorial videos for the dry earth product they add a bunch of stuff to it then mix
Hi Ben! Thank you for your comment!
Sorry for the delay, your comment got lost in the queue!
Yes! The dry earth is straight from the pot. We didn't add any pigments since we aimed to prime and paint everything afterwards. You can add water or white glue to it too, depending on the level/size of grain texture you wish to achieve. We usually don't add anything though.
At 2:23 what were those 3 paints for anyways? They didn’t seem to be used for dry brushing or anything so were all 3 mixed together for the rock color or something?
Hi! Thank you very much for your question!
Yes! they were the colors used to paint the rocks in the following take. It's always a good idea to paint the rocks by blending two or three tones of the desired color (in this case brown) to add detail and variation to the color.
@@GamersGrass Ok that's very smart. Big fan of y'alls bases from how realistic they look. This video was what got me into your grass lol. I am glad this tutorial exists too since it seems arid bases are not for sale anymore/yet?
What 3 paints did you use at 2:23. I would really like to replicate this base look
Hello Benjamin! thank you very much for your comment and question!
The paints we used there were Vallejo: Flat Earth, Flat Brown and Burnt Umber.
Please note that you don't have to use the exact same paints to achieve the same results, if you blend similar colors it will definitely work fine.
Thank you!
Happy Hobbying!
The Pigment on the laser plant was a nice touch. So will the pigment adhere to the plant without having to use anything else? I haven't used my pigments much yet. What I used to do with them was create a sort of wash with isopropanol, and then get it into details on vehicles. It would dry like regular pigment, but was great for being able to get into details.
I wasn't sure how to apply them in the powder form, properly. I always assumed you'd need to use a spray varnish or something to get them to adhere. So do they just sort of dry where you put them or something please?
I see you use lots of pigments in their powder form, so hopefully you can help me here.
Hello! Thank you for the question!
Yes, we usually just apply the pigment dry, by pressing it against the surface. This way it paints the surface with enough pigment for it to remain there, since we usually apply it in horizontal surfaces, or better yet, crevices and holes (etc..).
If you would like to use it in more vertical areas, then we would suggest applying some pigment fixer either with a brush or airbrush, so that it strengthens it and keeps it in place.
We hope this helps!
@@GamersGrass will isopropanol work as a pigment fixer, or would I need a special product for that, please?
Hi is it good idea to substitute "Dry Earth Texture from AMMO by MIG Jimenez" with "Vallejo Acrylics: Earth Texture - Brown Earth" or they behave differently?. Its a bit hard to buy AMMO stuff at my place.
Hello! Thank you very much for you comment! Yes you can! That would also work fine!
On the arid steppe bases what color is being used on the bases? I have bought many steppe bases but I'm trying to convert some bases to look like them and can't get a good color match. Any help would be awesome.
Hi Tanner! Thank you for your comment!
For the Arid Steppes we do not use the usual hobby paints so I cannot give you an exact match, but you could mimic it with something like this:
- You can use our Basing Bits, Rocks to create the rocky parts
- With a texture paint give it some form to the ground. (like Vallejo Earth Texture)
- Paint it in a dark beige colour (a mix of Citadel Ushabti Bone and Karak Stone)
- Drybrush with the same colour but a little lighter (mixed with a bit of white)
- Gently Drybrush with pure white in the higher areas (stones)
Finish with the following tufts
Light Brown (6mm)
Beige (6mm)
@@GamersGrass thank you! I appreciate the help.
Hello :) thanks for the insanely helpful video guide, triggered me a lot. One question i didnt already find answered below: What pigments did you use for the arid base in particular? cheers
Hi! Thank you for your feedback, glad you liked it :) The two pigments we used were Vallejo Dust Desert and Brown Iron Oxide!
And "New Rust" to incorporate the agave plants!
What product is that sand that you sprinkle over bases at 1:44-1:48? It is to powdery for natural sand so I guess it is rather some very fine sand. Could you tell me please what you have used?
Hello! Thank you for your question!
We picked some earth and sand from a nearby rock outcrop, so we guess it has some powdered rock in the mixture as well. The trick is to sieve the earth you find, you end up getting the finer grains out almost all kinds of earth/sands :)
Did you dry out your Martian Ironcrust? Mine does not come out of the pot that pasty.
Hello! thanks for commenting!
I think ours was nearing the end of the pot, and it had some time already, so it was more pasty. We since got some more for the other videos, and result is the same in the end :)
Did you put the crackle on while the other effect was still wet? I can't seem to replicate the effect you got with it crackling over the top
Hello! Thanks for reaching out!
We put the dry effect only when the previous paste was dry. However if you are having some difficulties with the crackle effect, there is the option to apply a layer of pva glue on the surface (and letting it dry) before applying the crackle paste. This can help it crackle more. (We do it this way on the burned lava bases basing guide video, if you want to check).
We hope this helps, happy hobbying!
@@GamersGrass that's great! Thanks for the reply :)
With what colour did you prime the bases? (I cannot seem to recreate you prepainted ones)
Hi Bart! We used Fosco primer sprays. The first was "Dunkel Gelb", and the following horizontal spray was "Desert"
@@GamersGrass You guys are amazing. Thank you so much.
I think you'd have good results with Krylon matte river rock and a quick dry brush of any lighter beige acrylic. Some of these specialty brands are amazing but very expensive to have delivered in the States.
What is that material you smear on the base in the begining, and where can i purchase it?
Hello! Thank you for reaching out!
The earth texture paste we use in the beginning is "Dry Earth Texture" (from AMMO by MIG Jimenez)
Cheers!
how do you glue the minis on after the basing is done?
Hello! Thank you for reaching out!
We use super glue (cyanoacrylate) to glue the miniature to the bases.
Note that it is always important to adapt the bases to the figures you are planning to use them on. This is good to bear in mind during the whole process of creating the base.
There are several ways to do this. The easiest way is simply to keep checking the position of the miniatures feet (or what holds it to the base) in relation to the spots where you glue the rocks and other elements.
You can also glue the miniature after painting the base, but before applying the tufts. This can help you have more option of space. Simply choose the spots for the tufts after the miniature is fixed :)
Thank you again! Any other question you may have don't hesitate to contact us!
Happy Hobbying!
What is the best glue to fix a miniature to those fully coverd bases? I plan on magnetizing the bases but if the magnets turn out stronger, than the glue connection of the model to the base, I will rip the models from the bases every time. Any suggestion?
Hello! Thanks for your comment :)
We suggest using Super glue, it's overall the best solution when gluing models to bases and usually works very well.
If your models and bases are made of plastic, you can always find ways to use plastic glue (the one that melts and joins the two pieces), which is even stronger, but to use this you would have to leave a blank space in each base (where the model touches it) to glue the miniature, or glue them before preparing and painting the base :)
We hope this helps! Happy hobbying!
@@GamersGrass Thanks for the swift reply. Great video and I will definately try this style of base.
Who gunna make a unturned joke cmon guys I’m waiting