Hayden Kennedy Cerro Torre Patagonie déséquipement de la voie Maestri 2012 alpinisme
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- čas přidán 14. 10. 2024
- #6... 14 avril 2016, Les Piolets d'Or, La Grave La Meije... Montagne, alpinisme... Quelques mots de Hayden Kennedy sur le déséquipement de la voie Maestri (voie du compresseur) au Cerro Torre en Patagonie en 2012... Merci à Manu Pellissier...
www.tvmountain...
On 17/01/2012 Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk climbed the SE Ridge (the Compressor route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia) via a route "by fair means" with difficulties up to 5.11 A2. In descent the two removed a significant portion of the Compressor route established by Cesare Maestri in 1970...
wikipedia...
Face à la controverse grandissante sur son ascension de 1959, Cesare Maestri décide de retourner au Cerro Torre et de le gravir par une nouvelle voie empruntant cette fois l'arrête sud-est; il choisit d'utiliser une perceuse et un compresseur pour poser ses pitons à expansion. Il tente l'ascension en juin 1970, en plein hiver austral, en compagnie de Carlo Claus, Ezio Alimonta et Pietro Vidi. Mais, malgré leurs efforts, le froid et le mauvais temps ne leur permettent pas de réussir et ils échouent à 450 mètres du sommet.
Cesare Maestri, Carlo Claus et Ezio Alimonta renouvellent leur tentative l'été suivant. Il retrouvent leur compresseur là où ils l'avaient laissé et poursuivent leur escalade réalisée au moyen d'étriers accrochés sur les pitons fixés dans les trous percés tous les mètres grâce à la perceuse et au compresseur. Le 2 décembre 1970, au terme d'une ascension épuisante, en raison notamment du poids du compresseur (180 kg), ils parviennent à la limite entre le rocher et le champignon de glace sommital. Ils ne montent pas sur le champignon mais Cesare Maestri considère avoir atteint le sommet, il affirmera plus tard : « la montagne s'arrête aux derniers rochers. La calotte va et vient ».
Libération de la voie...
Plusieurs tentatives ont été faite en libre sur cette voie. En 2007, par exemple, les américains Zack Smith et Josh Wharton ont réalisé la route en n'utilisant qu'une vingtaine de points. Le 9 janvier 2012, Jason Kruk et Hayden Kennedy réalisent une ascension en utilisant 2 ou 5 points. La voie a été libérée le 21 janvier 2012, par David Lama assisté de Peter Orner. Peter Lama a réalisé 3 tentatives avant de réussir en 2012...
People judge their actions, but remember Maestri defaced the mountain, he even left the compressor there, and all in a show of protecting his own ego for questionable claims.
A debate could be had about the bolts.
The compressor was left there however. I don't see any debate about leaving something like that attached to the wall.
I honestly struggle to understand how so called "real climbers" or alpinists still question this decision. The route was not climbed in the 60's.. maestri simply put the mountain to his level by bolting it like he did. What these two young legends did is give back to the mountain the respect it deserves... take off shit bolts that used to enable weak climbing parties to aid climb the hard parts of the climb to get to the top.
There could honestly be a whole essay written on this. Making hard and dangerous climbs more accessible is no the solution to sustainable alpinism and is not in the true ethics of climbing. He says the parts can be freed, or can be protected with your own pro. There are less and less challenges like the cerro Torre nowadays, so many climbs are getting retrobolted, made safer etc... these guys did a huge favor. Most importantly the climb is now only destined to those who can climb/aid without having to pull on all those shitty old pitons !! toughen up you fools, yes the maestri route is true history of alpinism, and whether you like it or not he did it first (but can't say he really "climbed it"), but those pitons never deserved to be there in the first place. Leaving the compressor is enough!!! like who the fuck brings an 80 ton compressor drill at 3000m. This is nuts. those who think they were wrong are absolute imbeciles who understand nothing about climbing or just probably to old or shit of a climber to free climb this part. you will see me on top of the cerro Torre, on a free ascent, in a few years from now. See yazzzzzzzzzzzz
R.i.p
Due eroi romantici. Gesto bellissimo. Il Cerro é troppo nobile ...ci deve poter andare solo chi si puo' misurare lealmente con lui, a mani nude come loro hanno fatto.
A bit cowboy style, their decision making back then, hae?
Maestri had no right to bolt the climb and conversely these two yanks had no right to remove the bolts. But he is dead now so no further criticism.
these guys did everyone, the mountain and climbing ethics a favor. The real ones will know. You are obviously not a real one judging by what you are saying, and you are probably a 5.9 plastic pulling climber at best. Maybe 5.8...