Like everybody else, I am so grateful for this video! Thank you :-) my brother is helping me refurbish a Pfaff 230. After fixing up some of the wiring that was coming apart I finally got to sew on it, and after quite some time realize that no matter what I did I could not make a straight stitch. I can’t believe how great this video is. I have to go find a screwdriver that can get to the setscrew and then we will begin the careful unfreezing and deconstruction of this dial. Thank you thank you thank you thank you.
thank you very much. i got my first vintage machine after i watched your singer 201-2 video and i got the pfaff after i watched your other video. found it in a thrift store for 30euro. very rare machine in italy, i don't think they knew what they had. it was frozen and dirty. i got to unfreeze the zig zag after this video dial but unfortunately i broke it and had to glue it back with some superglue. works fine now and the stitch is awesome!!!!! thanx a lot!!!
Thank you for letting me know! :) Bummer about the 130, but it happens. Superglue should hold it together just fine. You now have two of my favorite domestic machines! You're going to love them. If you're in Italy see if you can track down a Bernina 117. That's another great one. I still need to do a video on it but it's coming soon.
thesergeant hello again. I just got a necchi 840-100 witch is basically a pfaff 335 . What kind or brand of servo motor would you suggest for slow speed and powerfull punch, for leather work. Do you have any other suggestion about the machine?
Thank you! Another Pfaff 230 here and this video saved me! So easy to fix. Store bought penetrating oil did not work for me, but we had a batch of "Ed's Red Bore Cleaner" (recipe available via Google) on hand and it was a nearly instant fix.
I just got a barn find PHAFF 130 the stitch width is froze and the bobbin . I just spraded it all with KROIL I'll let it sit a couple of days and see what has loosened. Thanks for the vidio.
Wow... Thanks that knob was a mystery to me and I even have an original repair manual. Mine has an automatic so the knob is cast Iron not Bakelite but the process and caution is the same. Now I will get me some good penetrating oil to remove some of the gum that is hindering the automatic. Tanks again for sharing.
Dear Sarg, This video so bailed me out. I have a 230 that was literally seconds from getting parted out. I had buyer for the motor and mounts and accessories. I thought there was no getting this thing unfrozen, Now mine is. Just patience and time. Thanks you for putting this out there.
terriwine Do you mean the whple machine wouldn't turn or just the zig zag dial? My handwheel will barely turn the machine over. I have lubricated everything!!
This info is great. I have one pfaff 130 very tight knob, a second with a missing rear feeddog lifter spring and a Necchi Supernova that won't stay in zigzag it jumps the holders and was very frozen prior to heat gun and tri-flow penetrating oil.
Hi again. I found the information page 13 of the service manual that corroborates what you heard... the machines were sprayed with a combination of 'vaseline oil and gasoline'. They recommend that you 'wash the substance out of the bearings with kerosene while running the machine' and then to apply sewing machine oil. I tried to insert a screen shot of the pages but i cannot.
Hey man, I have a 138-6 wich had the same issue. The hairdryer and WD-40 did the trick. Immediate re-oil after and then half an hour adjusting the shaft to allign it with the knob. You are amazing!
Sir, Wached yr video on PFAFF 130--FROZEN ZIG ZAG DIAL. Very informative video and Thanks for educating. My machine is having the same problem which i will correct it now. Thanking u again. vatsa India
Hi there, good to talk to you again! :) This video is helping me free up the same knob on my 230 machine. Thanks! :) Oh and happy Memorial Day Weekend! :D
Try using a dietetics needle for putting your oil in all those small little places you can get a one drop application without getting oil all over where you don’t want it
That knob on mine actually appears to be steel. Thanks for the video, it helped me no destroy anything during disassembly. I had everything in the dial frozen in addition to the feed dog drop being totally jammed up. I have another 130-6 on the way so I'm hoping for better luck with that.
Great video. Just finished working on my Pfaff 130 and couldn't have done it without this video. Do you know if a schematic of the machine is available? Thanks for all the help!
Hi thanks for the video. I bought my pfaff 138 with a cracked dial. The dial works, the mechanism is free, but once put in zig zag, the machine pushes the dial out of place. It seems like the machine is seezed up somewhere else. The arm at the head of the machine (where the needle bar moves up and down) is really hard to move from left to right. I have oiled it a few times, but it is really stiff and keeps pushing out the dial once I try to zig zag ( the 1,2,3 lever under the dial jumps and rattles) and then the whole mechanism is thrown off. ANY help is really welcome.
Great video mate, with oil and blowerheat the problem was solved in 10 minutes thanks to you, the problem is now is that when the dial is on zero it give a light zigzag, can you tell the properly way to act? (sorry for bad english) greets from Amsterdam (Netherlands)
+Xinix Xagnix Turn the knob to zero hold it in place while loosening the set screw located on the bottom of the selector knob. Now turn the middle slot ever so slightly to the right. Retighten the set screw and check. If the zig zag lessens you're going in the right direct, just keep making small adjustments. If the zig-zag widens then you need to turn to the left. It will take some trial and error. Goodluck!
I appreciate your videos! I realize this one is a handful of years old, but, wanted to seek your experience. I have taken my 130's stitch dial apart many times, lubed it, gotten the straight stitch to work pretty well, but, when I set it to ZZ, the dial jumps around. Everything is tight, and seemingly in place. Any recommendations? Thank you1
Thanks for this video. Seems I had an issue also with when straight stitching it does a slight zig zag. I wil lhave to play with the set screw. Much appreciated.
Any clue on how to center the needle of the pfaff 130/138. I've tried the eccentric screw on the back but that just adjust the position of the zig zag? On some machines there is an eccentric on the needle bar itself for this purpose. Do you know if it has anything to do with adjusting the plate behind the zigzag dial?
Actually I figured out the answer to my problem as luck would have it. There indeed is an eccentric to adjust the needle bar. It is on the left back side of the machine. There is also a set screw to the right under the arm that has to be loosened first. Then you are good to go.
Well bless your little cotton socks ! Thanks for replying and making a video so soon. I did put a few drops of oil this morning, but no luck yet. I'll try the penetrating oil next. I tried to pop the knob off before I watched this video, and unfortunately chipped a piece off. Do you by chance know where to buy a replacement ? Otherwise I'll superglue the chunk back on. I love this machine. I like to sew heavy duty things such as leather and denim and it's a capable workhorse. I like that it's made of metal and so nostalgic. Once again thank you , and great video !
No problem, glad to help. Your comment actually prompted me to work on my machine, which I've been meaning to do for some time. Unfortunately standard sewing machine oil isn't going to loosen it, the viscosity is too high and won't penetrate. Definitely pick up some penetrating oil for this task. Wipe away as much of the standard oil as you can before applying the penetrating oil. Replacement dials are near impossible to come by but you can check ebay. Super glue will be your best bet. You have to be really careful with the Bakelite components as they're extremely brittle. Goodluck!
So far, so good. It appears everything is frozen but with your help I now have the black knob off. Now onto step 2! I have a question on the springs. Are there 2 or 3? I have the longer one on top and the shorter in the bottom but it has been mangled a bit by the set screw. Is that how it should be?
Christy Thompson Yep! You got it. Sorry for the late response, my wife and I just moved into a new house so it's been a little hectic. Glad you were able to figure it out though. Enjoy your machine
thesergeant thank you! Enjoy your new house! I do have another question which will hopefully be the last of my problems. This machine was completely frozen when I bought it. The needle position is still extremely tight. I am able to move it using force and have been using penetrant and heat and it looks like this could take days to weeks. Is there anything else you can think of I should be doing?
Christy Thompson Unfortunately there's not much more you can do to free that part up except to give it time. That part isn't going to break free as quickly as some of the other parts that are either under power or have a lot of throw in their range of adjustment. Just give it time and it will eventually loosen up. This 130 was the exact same way when I bought it. It just spent some time moving the needle position around and eventually became very smooth.
I love your video. I was wondering if you have any suggestions on putting the disl back together and any adjustments to the dial. Mine was frozen, now it moves but the needle position keeps changing and will not stay in place. It also seem like the back part of the dial rubs on the gears at certain times. Just looking for sone friendke advice on this.
I just got my hands on a Bernina 117L and I'm super excited to get going on restoration. If you have a minute, would you be able to give a bulletpoint rundown of the materials and tools you prefer for a full machine restoration? eg how do you get an even finish on intricate chrome parts? Do you always take the whole machine apart for full cleaning and re-oiling? Thanks for any info in advance of add'l videos you might be thinking about making.
I am very grateful for this video. I have the zig zag apparatus unstuck and taken apart with your help. I noticed that the little compression spring for the set screw holding the dial on was missing. Do you happen to know the size of that screw? What happens if it’s not replaced?
thank you so much for this video, I was desperate! My Pfaff was entirely frozen, I managed to free the main mechanism, but the zig zag dial is still stuck, although with your explanation I freeed it partly. Now my problem is the part that is behind the cast iron body, which is still stuck (the black knob is turning, but the little shinny "button" on the left is not moving (excuse my poor english, I am french!) at all, it is stuck in the middle position, which is not bad, but I would like it to move freely like in your video. How can I do? We don't have the penetrating oil you're talking about here, and I used WD 40 instead, but it seemed to free the whole thing at first, and then stick it again. I was told that it happens sometimes on old mechanism stuck by old grease, the mix of both is not good. Apart from dipping the whole machine into gazoline and let it stay for days, I don't see what to do, and I am afraid it would ruin the cord belt inside. What do you think? Thanks!
Avais-tu réussis à la réparrer finalement, je suis dans le même scénario :-) Moi le knob noir y tourne, mais pas le pointeur argent.. Je vais toute démonté le truc voir..
What is not being told is where the nub goes against the adjustment. There are 3 slots for the nub of the dial , so which one is it to be in when you re-assemble. I appreciate the video, but this missing info makes the job unworkable.
In the video you recommend kerosene but here you recommend denatured alcohol. Is one better than the other for unfreezing a machine? Mine is also a german machine (Adler) and I think it's facing the same issues with tight tolerances and frozen gunk. I could use any advice you have on how to free it up again! :(
Is this machine capable of sewing multiple layers of 1000 denier Cordura nylon while also being able to sew light weight nylon? What is one of these worth in good condition?
Depends on how many 'multiple' is, but generally, yes, the machine can handle 1000D. The limiting factor will be presser foot lift. This is a home machine so you're only going to get 3/8" lift -- tops. The larger spoked handwheel also helps through thicker material since it builds momentum and adds punching power. It also makes hand operation easier. If you're sewing lightweight materials like silnylon or 1.1 ripstop, etc. you're better off using a straight stitch machine with a narrow needle plate opening. The smaller hole means there's less of a chance the material will get pulled down into the bobbin area. I've got another video on here showing a hammock setup that I made. That was sewn on a Singer 201 straight stitch machine as I found it was a better overall stitch that on the Pfaff.
thesergeant Ok thanks I saw one on Craigslist and I am fairly new to sewing but my home 1022 Singer is not adequate for the outdoor gear I am trying to sew.
primalarcher If it's in decent condition go for it. I've used dozens of domestic machines and the Pfaff 130, Necchi BU Nova/Mira and Adler 189A are the finest I've used. You won't regret it.
thesergeant I will think about it. What should I expect to give for one in fair condition? Oh, and I don't see myself sewing through more than 4 layers of 1000D Cordura. I would like to make a Silnylon tarp.
Love your videos. Do you have any suggestions for a Necchi BU with the same problem? I need to go through the whole thing, but the width and position levers are the worst problem.
Hope you figured out you BU , i own 2 and they run great , one was covered in 40 years of cigarette smoke and came bach beutiful, and i just got my second one but the paint is real bad because someone used thinner or some oven cleaner on it , but amazingly the chrome is all mint and the machine runs perfect , so im just going to repaint it , i was going to use it for parts but the friggen thing is complete and runs so i cant ...
Hi, thanks for this great video. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge! I had the same problem as Xinix Xagnix. Thanks to your video I was able to remove the zigzagnob. By loosening the set screw I was able to adjust the machine so that I can sew without zigzag again. But when I put the zigzagnob in place, I noticed that I cannot sew zigzag anymore, unless I block the nob with a screwdriver while sewing. The nob automatically jumps back to 0. Do you know how I can solve this problem?
+mie beer glad it helped! To fix your problem you need to push the knob further onto the shaft before tightening it down. If you remove the back plate and turn the knob side to side you'll see a little square block moving in the back fo the machine. Push that block forward, which will move the shaft forward so you can push the knob further in. You'll need three hands to do this so it's easiest to get the set screw holding the knob on tight enough to where it will stay in place but loose enough that you can move it with some pressure. Goodluck!
i have got a german machine from a collector - not intended for shipping - an there in is this gasoline and vaseline in it in a great amount and all is frozen. the reason, why i searched for your video.... think they want do prevent rust, because a collector machine in the first place should look good, not work.
Is there a name for the Flathead screwdriver that you refer to when you try to turn that shaft. i couldn't find anything at the Home Depot. I don't think i will until I have a proper name, or at least the brand of the set you use. thanks. BTW, picked my 130 head up at an antique place for $4.00!
He man, I got a similar kind of machine and my dial is frozen as well but I think it’s more a mechanic problem. I took out the mechanism and the zig zag vork but I’m not sure if it’s broken. Do you have any experience with that?
My Pfaff 130's handwheel is really hard to crank and I took it apart and can't figure out why it's so sluggish. I inspected the bobbin case and oiled it all down and still has difficulty getting a smooth rotation. Any tips?
Maybe the axle is varnished , broken gear? have you inspect the belt? 2 years ago same sort of problems, belt was finish, new belt and it run good again...Or maybe it is this problem > czcams.com/video/jkMeZsjKr4g/video.html
@@xinixxagnix201 thanks! I took more time in oiling and let it sit for a day or so and once the oil got deep in then it began to run smoothly again thank goodness!
Do you need to lubricate the stuck shaft after freeing it up? I freed mine up once with heat and PB blaster, but after cooling it is tight again. So, I am assuming that I must do this a few more times until it will stay free when cool. What is the best lubricant to use? Thank you, j
+bzalto Ya, go through the process a few more times and really flush everything out of there. As for lubricants, I know a lot of people that like Tri-Flow, but I have mixed feelings about it. I personally use Lily White Non-Staining oil for the needle bar/nose of the machine (where there is risk of the oil coming in contact with fabric). Then for the rest of the machine I use a 0-20W synthetic motor oil. I thoroughly clean everything moving part with denatured alcohol before use a new lubricant.
Like everybody else, I am so grateful for this video! Thank you :-) my brother is helping me refurbish a Pfaff 230. After fixing up some of the wiring that was coming apart I finally got to sew on it, and after quite some time realize that no matter what I did I could not make a straight stitch. I can’t believe how great this video is. I have to go find a screwdriver that can get to the setscrew and then we will begin the careful unfreezing and deconstruction of this dial. Thank you thank you thank you thank you.
Thank you so much for the kind words! :)
thank you very much. i got my first vintage machine after i watched your singer 201-2 video and i got the pfaff after i watched your other video. found it in a thrift store for 30euro. very rare machine in italy, i don't think they knew what they had. it was frozen and dirty. i got to unfreeze the zig zag after this video dial but unfortunately i broke it and had to glue it back with some superglue. works fine now and the stitch is awesome!!!!! thanx a lot!!!
Thank you for letting me know! :) Bummer about the 130, but it happens. Superglue should hold it together just fine. You now have two of my favorite domestic machines! You're going to love them. If you're in Italy see if you can track down a Bernina 117. That's another great one. I still need to do a video on it but it's coming soon.
@@thesergeant3524 thanx a lot for the helpful videos!
thesergeant hello again. I just got a necchi 840-100 witch is basically a pfaff 335 . What kind or brand of servo motor would you suggest for slow speed and powerfull punch, for leather work. Do you have any other suggestion about the machine?
Thank you! Another Pfaff 230 here and this video saved me! So easy to fix. Store bought penetrating oil did not work for me, but we had a batch of "Ed's Red Bore Cleaner" (recipe available via Google) on hand and it was a nearly instant fix.
I just got a barn find PHAFF 130 the stitch width is froze and the bobbin . I just spraded it all with KROIL I'll let it sit a couple of days and see what has loosened. Thanks for the vidio.
Wow... Thanks that knob was a mystery to me and I even have an original repair manual. Mine has an automatic so the knob is cast Iron not Bakelite but the process and caution is the same. Now I will get me some good penetrating oil to remove some of the gum that is hindering the automatic. Tanks again for sharing.
Dear Sarg, This video so bailed me out. I have a 230 that was literally seconds from getting parted out. I had buyer for the motor and mounts and accessories. I thought there was no getting this thing unfrozen, Now mine is. Just patience and time. Thanks you for putting this out there.
Awesome! Glad you were able to salvage it. The 230 is a solid machine, I'm sure you're going to enjoy it. Thanks for the comment.
terriwine Do you mean the whple machine wouldn't turn or just the zig zag dial? My handwheel will barely turn the machine over. I have lubricated everything!!
Thank you. Very useful information. I also have seen many machines freeze up and they're all Pfaff 130 and 230!
Thank goodness for youtube, I was about to give up, you made my day. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
Keep up the great work.
You're welcome, glad it helped! Enjoy your machine!
This info is great. I have one pfaff 130 very tight knob, a second with a missing rear feeddog lifter spring and a Necchi Supernova that won't stay in zigzag it jumps the holders and was very frozen prior to heat gun and tri-flow penetrating oil.
Hi again. I found the information page 13 of the service manual that corroborates what you heard... the machines were sprayed with a combination of 'vaseline oil and gasoline'. They recommend that you 'wash the substance out of the bearings with kerosene while running the machine' and then to apply sewing machine oil. I tried to insert a screen shot of the pages but i cannot.
That's awesome! Thanks for clarification!
Hey man,
I have a 138-6 wich had the same issue. The hairdryer and WD-40 did the trick. Immediate re-oil after and then half an hour adjusting the shaft to allign it with the knob. You are amazing!
Thank you!!!! :)
A heads up , use gun smithing slot headed screwdrivers for best results
Absolutely! "Hollow ground" bits are what you want. Good advice!
Excellent video. Just picked up a 130 and need to do this!
Sir,
Wached yr video on PFAFF 130--FROZEN ZIG ZAG DIAL.
Very informative video and Thanks for educating. My machine is having the same problem which i will correct it now. Thanking u again.
vatsa India
Hi there, good to talk to you again! :) This video is helping me free up the same knob on my 230 machine. Thanks! :)
Oh and happy Memorial Day Weekend! :D
Try using a dietetics needle for putting your oil in all those small little places you can get a one drop application without getting oil all over where you don’t want it
That knob on mine actually appears to be steel. Thanks for the video, it helped me no destroy anything during disassembly. I had everything in the dial frozen in addition to the feed dog drop being totally jammed up. I have another 130-6 on the way so I'm hoping for better luck with that.
Awesome, glad it helped! Ya, some versions (earlier I believe) of the Pfaff 130 have a metal dial rather than a bakelite. Enjoy your
machine!
I have a Pfaff 230 with a frozen screw...just like this one on your video...found the screw underneath..
Great video. Just finished working on my Pfaff 130 and couldn't have done it without this video. Do you know if a schematic of the machine is available? Thanks for all the help!
Thanks for the helpful video, took some heat to unfreeze my shaft, works great!
Hi thanks for the video. I bought my pfaff 138 with a cracked dial. The dial works, the mechanism is free, but once put in zig zag, the machine pushes the dial out of place. It seems like the machine is seezed up somewhere else. The arm at the head of the machine (where the needle bar moves up and down) is really hard to move from left to right. I have oiled it a few times, but it is really stiff and keeps pushing out the dial once I try to zig zag ( the 1,2,3 lever under the dial jumps and rattles) and then the whole mechanism is thrown off. ANY help is really welcome.
Thanks! Just got mine freed up. Shaft was stuck. Squirted loads of oil and finally some heat.
Great video mate, with oil and blowerheat the problem was solved in 10 minutes thanks to you, the problem is now is that when the dial is on zero it give a light zigzag, can you tell the properly way to act? (sorry for bad english) greets from Amsterdam (Netherlands)
+Xinix Xagnix Turn the knob to zero hold it in place while loosening the set screw located on the bottom of the selector knob. Now turn the middle slot ever so slightly to the right. Retighten the set screw and check. If the zig zag lessens you're going in the right direct, just keep making small adjustments. If the zig-zag widens then you need to turn to the left. It will take some trial and error. Goodluck!
+thesergeant > I get tthe drift, thanx for your time and keep on going !! regards and greets from the Netherlands!
I appreciate your videos! I realize this one is a handful of years old, but, wanted to seek your experience. I have taken my 130's stitch dial apart many times, lubed it, gotten the straight stitch to work pretty well, but, when I set it to ZZ, the dial jumps around. Everything is tight, and seemingly in place. Any recommendations? Thank you1
I have a Pfaff 238 that has a broken zig zag knob. Do you know where I could find one?
Thanks for this video. Seems I had an issue also with when straight stitching it does a slight zig zag. I wil lhave to play with the set screw. Much appreciated.
Any clue on how to center the needle of the pfaff 130/138. I've tried the eccentric screw on the back but that just adjust the position of the zig zag? On some machines there is an eccentric on the needle bar itself for this purpose. Do you know if it has anything to do with adjusting the plate behind the zigzag dial?
Actually I figured out the answer to my problem as luck would have it. There indeed is an eccentric to adjust the needle bar. It is on the left back side of the machine. There is also a set screw to the right under the arm that has to be loosened first. Then you are good to go.
Where can I get the correct screwdriver to fit the screw on the stitch width regulator
Well bless your little cotton socks ! Thanks for replying and making a video so soon. I did put a few drops of oil this morning, but no luck yet. I'll try the penetrating oil next. I tried to pop the knob off before I watched this video, and unfortunately chipped a piece off. Do you by chance know where to buy a replacement ? Otherwise I'll superglue the chunk back on. I love this machine. I like to sew heavy duty things such as leather and denim and it's a capable workhorse. I like that it's made of metal and so nostalgic.
Once again thank you , and great video !
No problem, glad to help. Your comment actually prompted me to work on my machine, which I've been meaning to do for some time.
Unfortunately standard sewing machine oil isn't going to loosen it, the viscosity is too high and won't penetrate. Definitely pick up some penetrating oil for this task. Wipe away as much of the standard oil as you can before applying the penetrating oil.
Replacement dials are near impossible to come by but you can check ebay. Super glue will be your best bet. You have to be really careful with the Bakelite components as they're extremely brittle.
Goodluck!
thesergeant
Do not underestimate the value of your videos my friend, they are incredibly informative,+great presentation. Thank you
Kennedy O'Donnell Thank you!!
Mandy S. J
So far, so good. It appears everything is frozen but with your help I now have the black knob off. Now onto step 2! I have a question on the springs. Are there 2 or 3? I have the longer one on top and the shorter in the bottom but it has been mangled a bit by the set screw. Is that how it should be?
I think I have it. 2 screws. The shorter one must be placed after the set screw is in place. Mine had been slipped behind that screw and got mashed.
Christy Thompson Yep! You got it. Sorry for the late response, my wife and I just moved into a new house so it's been a little hectic. Glad you were able to figure it out though. Enjoy your machine
thesergeant thank you! Enjoy your new house!
I do have another question which will hopefully be the last of my problems. This machine was completely frozen when I bought it. The needle position is still extremely tight. I am able to move it using force and have been using penetrant and heat and it looks like this could take days to weeks. Is there anything else you can think of I should be doing?
Christy Thompson Unfortunately there's not much more you can do to free that part up except to give it time. That part isn't going to break free as quickly as some of the other parts that are either under power or have a lot of throw in their range of adjustment. Just give it time and it will eventually loosen up. This 130 was the exact same way when I bought it. It just spent some time moving the needle position around and eventually became very smooth.
thesergeant Thank you. I really appreciate your response. I will continue to work with it and hope mine frees up as well as yours did.
I love your video. I was wondering if you have any suggestions on putting the disl back together and any adjustments to the dial. Mine was frozen, now it moves but the needle position keeps changing and will not stay in place. It also seem like the back part of the dial rubs on the gears at certain times. Just looking for sone friendke advice on this.
Thanks a lot for the video. My shaft is frozen, i will try with oil and heat
I just got my hands on a Bernina 117L and I'm super excited to get going on restoration.
If you have a minute, would you be able to give a bulletpoint rundown of the materials and tools you prefer for a full machine restoration? eg how do you get an even finish on intricate chrome parts? Do you always take the whole machine apart for full cleaning and re-oiling? Thanks for any info in advance of add'l videos you might be thinking about making.
Wonderfully helpful thank you for helping me unfreeze this 130!!!!
Thank you! Glad you were able to save it!
Mi maquina paff 130solo hace zig zag, como puedo hacer que costurar recta? ya le moví la perilla y nada más no queda
I am very grateful for this video. I have the zig zag apparatus unstuck and taken apart with your help. I noticed that the little compression spring for the set screw holding the dial on was missing. Do you happen to know the size of that screw? What happens if it’s not replaced?
thank you so much for this video, I was desperate! My Pfaff was entirely frozen, I managed to free the main mechanism, but the zig zag dial is still stuck, although with your explanation I freeed it partly. Now my problem is the part that is behind the cast iron body, which is still stuck (the black knob is turning, but the little shinny "button" on the left is not moving (excuse my poor english, I am french!) at all, it is stuck in the middle position, which is not bad, but I would like it to move freely like in your video. How can I do? We don't have the penetrating oil you're talking about here, and I used WD 40 instead, but it seemed to free the whole thing at first, and then stick it again. I was told that it happens sometimes on old mechanism stuck by old grease, the mix of both is not good. Apart from dipping the whole machine into gazoline and let it stay for days, I don't see what to do, and I am afraid it would ruin the cord belt inside. What do you think?
Thanks!
Avais-tu réussis à la réparrer finalement, je suis dans le même scénario :-) Moi le knob noir y tourne, mais pas le pointeur argent.. Je vais toute démonté le truc voir..
hello I would like to know how to change the internal belt and where you can get I am from Venezuela
What is not being told is where the nub goes against the adjustment. There are 3 slots for the nub of the dial , so which one is it to be in when you re-assemble. I appreciate the video, but this missing info makes the job unworkable.
what do you do when the knob turns but it doesn't engage?
Also, I saw that you said on another video that you don't like the orange belts. A Singer 198651 belt fits on the Pfaff and looks a lot better,
Could this be causing my whole machine to be frozen? The handwheel wont move the needle bar.
Soak everything denatured alcohol but watch the finish. it will free it up. Then lubricate with Tri-flow or something similar.
In the video you recommend kerosene but here you recommend denatured alcohol. Is one better than the other for unfreezing a machine? Mine is also a german machine (Adler) and I think it's facing the same issues with tight tolerances and frozen gunk. I could use any advice you have on how to free it up again! :(
Is this machine capable of sewing multiple layers of 1000 denier Cordura nylon while also being able to sew light weight nylon? What is one of these worth in good condition?
Depends on how many 'multiple' is, but generally, yes, the machine can handle 1000D. The limiting factor will be presser foot lift. This is a home machine so you're only going to get 3/8" lift -- tops. The larger spoked handwheel also helps through thicker material since it builds momentum and adds punching power. It also makes hand operation easier.
If you're sewing lightweight materials like silnylon or 1.1 ripstop, etc. you're better off using a straight stitch machine with a narrow needle plate opening. The smaller hole means there's less of a chance the material will get pulled down into the bobbin area.
I've got another video on here showing a hammock setup that I made. That was sewn on a Singer 201 straight stitch machine as I found it was a better overall stitch that on the Pfaff.
thesergeant Ok thanks I saw one on Craigslist and I am fairly new to sewing but my home 1022 Singer is not adequate for the outdoor gear I am trying to sew.
primalarcher If it's in decent condition go for it. I've used dozens of domestic machines and the Pfaff 130, Necchi BU Nova/Mira and Adler 189A are the finest I've used. You won't regret it.
thesergeant I will think about it. What should I expect to give for one in fair condition? Oh, and I don't see myself sewing through more than 4 layers of 1000D Cordura. I would like to make a Silnylon tarp.
Love your videos. Do you have any suggestions for a Necchi BU with the same problem? I need to go through the whole thing, but the width and position levers are the worst problem.
Hope you figured out you BU , i own 2 and they run great , one was covered in 40 years of cigarette smoke and came bach beutiful, and i just got my second one but the paint is real bad because someone used thinner or some oven cleaner on it , but amazingly the chrome is all mint and the machine runs perfect , so im just going to repaint it , i was going to use it for parts but the friggen thing is complete and runs so i cant ...
Thank you for sharing!
Great material!!!
Thank you!
Hi, thanks for this great video. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge! I had the same problem as Xinix Xagnix. Thanks to your video I was able to remove the zigzagnob. By loosening the set screw I was able to adjust the machine so that I can sew without zigzag again. But when I put the zigzagnob in place, I noticed that I cannot sew zigzag anymore, unless I block the nob with a screwdriver while sewing. The nob automatically jumps back to 0. Do you know how I can solve this problem?
+mie beer glad it helped! To fix your problem you need to push the knob further onto the shaft before tightening it down. If you remove the back plate and turn the knob side to side you'll see a little square block moving in the back fo the machine. Push that block forward, which will move the shaft forward so you can push the knob further in. You'll need three hands to do this so it's easiest to get the set screw holding the knob on tight enough to where it will stay in place but loose enough that you can move it with some pressure. Goodluck!
+thesergeant Thanks for your quick reaction. I'm going to try this and 'll let you know if I succeed. Thanks a lot!
Congratulations!
i have got a german machine from a collector - not intended for shipping - an there in is this gasoline and vaseline in it in a great amount and all is frozen. the reason, why i searched for your video.... think they want do prevent rust, because a collector machine in the first place should look good, not work.
Is there a name for the Flathead screwdriver that you refer to when you try to turn that shaft. i couldn't find anything at the Home Depot. I don't think i will until I have a proper name, or at least the brand of the set you use. thanks. BTW, picked my 130 head up at an antique place for $4.00!
He man, I got a similar kind of machine and my dial is frozen as well but I think it’s more a mechanic problem. I took out the mechanism and the zig zag vork but I’m not sure if it’s broken. Do you have any experience with that?
I. am. have. sewing. machine. PFAFF. 130. need. two. part's.
My Pfaff 130's handwheel is really hard to crank and I took it apart and can't figure out why it's so sluggish. I inspected the bobbin case and oiled it all down and still has difficulty getting a smooth rotation. Any tips?
Maybe the axle is varnished , broken gear? have you inspect the belt? 2 years ago same sort of problems, belt was finish, new belt and it run good again...Or maybe it is this problem > czcams.com/video/jkMeZsjKr4g/video.html
@@xinixxagnix201 thanks! I took more time in oiling and let it sit for a day or so and once the oil got deep in then it began to run smoothly again thank goodness!
Do you need to lubricate the stuck shaft after freeing it up? I freed mine up once with heat and PB blaster, but after cooling it is tight again. So, I am assuming that I must do this a few more times until it will stay free when cool. What is the best lubricant to use? Thank you, j
+bzalto Ya, go through the process a few more times and really flush everything out of there. As for lubricants, I know a lot of people that like Tri-Flow, but I have mixed feelings about it. I personally use Lily White Non-Staining oil for the needle bar/nose of the machine (where there is risk of the oil coming in contact with fabric). Then for the rest of the machine I use a 0-20W synthetic motor oil. I thoroughly clean everything moving part with denatured alcohol before use a new lubricant.
jaap hoogerdijk
do you no the differences off the pfaff 34 and the pfaff 134
Thank you!
nice video. Sir my machine fabric is not moving.
Imam kofericu pfafficu 40 godina staru ,još u upotrebi.
Great video!! Thanks
Are you still monitoring your video comments?
My wife and I had a baby a few months ago so time has been time. Back now though!
Kroil is the best !!!
DOVE COMPRARE LA GRIFFA TRASPORTATRICE
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