MAINTAIN YOUR CAMERA GEAR (or RUIN it)
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- Tony Northrup shows you his tips for maintaining your camera gear, including cleaning your camera sensor, cleaning your lenses to remove dust, and cleaning/tightening your tripod.
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Consider vacuuming out your camera bag on a regular basis as well. Especially after a trip to the beach.
Notes: I show a lens cleaning brush with the bristles, but I accidentally called it a sensor cleaning brush. The way I demonstrate cleaning the sensor is correct. It's a myth that you should discharge your Li-ion battery; that practice shortens the lifespan. I cleaned a lens 1,000 times with my t-shirt to test whether it would damage the lens, breathing on it every time, and it was perfect afterwards. I know traditionally people recommend against it, but I believe in real world testing and evidence. I think it's probably better to hold your camera upside down when using the blower, but I'm not sure it really makes a difference since dust isn't very heavy, but yeah, might as well invert the body.
You need to pin this comment.
Hey Tony, I posted this in a different reply, however I think it's relevant here as well:
I always face the camera body toward the ground when I change lenses. I have had my two D850 and my D810 for years now and have had very little in the way of dust on my sensors, and I do change lenses fairly often. 😁
Oh and by the way, I agree with you about the tee shirt in a pinch... there is no way that the soft clean cotton of a shit is going to damage glass. 🤪
Tony, I love this channel and the deep tech dives you take, but you almost always back it up with *actual data you have tested yourself*. In this case, the data is lacking. "It's a myth that you should discharge your Li-ion battery; that practice shortens the lifespan."...where did you get that? Did you test it? I did, and provided examples. Constant topping up batteries, which is what you recommend, is just a really bad idea. It's certainly worse than completely draining them, if that is even an issue (I've never had issues with it). It might be true that complete draining is unnecessary, but your recommendation on that score is far worse.
I hate to say this Tony, but you may need to edit this video. I almost took you seriously on the brush thing. I was perplexed because you never mentioned it in the sensor cleaning video. I was thinking this would be a good way to get superficial dust off without having to use my cleaning kit swabs. Glad I read the comments.
Thanks Tony. No Joke... I'm kind of a newbie with high grade cameras. The first time I accidentally planted a fingerprint on my high grade brand new expensive lens I had anxiety attacks for not knowing how to clean it and "what can I possibly do?, now its not perfect anymore! Did I ruin it?", LOL. I appreciate research you did actually TRYING to "ruin" the lens and proving expensive photography equipment is designed and crafted to handle day to day use and maintenance by human beings. Sounds like you had had enough of the stories and folklore about lenses :) Bumped mine a few times in horror, but I never dropped my lens and I am so much not looking forward to any such moment.
When you change lenses, particularly on mirrorless cameras point the open flange and sensor toward the ground in order to minimise dust settling on you sensor. It doesn't take long to develop this as a habit and its something I had drilled into me as a camera trainee in the film industry as best practice, we were always taught to obsess about hair or dust getting into the gate.
Actually this is not a rule. You point towards the ground the thing that is more expensive, eg. 2000 dollar lens instead of 1000 euro dslr = the thing that is easier to change if necessary.
Yes. Agree. I also take care to minimise dust falling into/onto rear of lens as that too can eventually end up on sensor. It's more a problem with DSLRs though as a flapping mirror can create small air turbulence inside camera between lens and sensor. So another very small advantage to using mirrorless vs DSLRs. Perhaps offset by fact that a mirror can catch dust that might otherwise just fall directly onto your mirrorless sensor - perhaps Canon R with sensor protection is thus better than unprotected sensor found on Sony, Fuji, Nikon Z etc?
As somebody that's spent time studying in a biology lab, if the sensor is warm, you're probably better pointing the body up, so that the air current is exiting the camera rather than being sucked into it. One of the things I learned to do when setting up aseptic test tubes was to run the top through the Bunsen burner for a moment, so the tube would have the air flowing out of it slightly, rather than in.
This is probably a large part of why it dosn't much matter which way the camera is pointed in most cases, especially if you've got a sensor that can self clean minor dust. I"m sure there are situations where it does matter a great deal, but in those cases, you're likely better off changing the lens inside of a bag where there's very little chance of dust getting in there.
Small tip for people wanting to just have something useful in the hot shoe - get a tiny hot shoe level. It is useful when lining a shot and covers the hot shoe. :)
I tried that on my M50, but the hot shoe level fools the camera into thinking there is an external flash mounted, and the internal flash doesn’t work anymore unless I revoke the level. It’s not a huge deal, but sometimes it is handy to flip up the internal flash to get a bit of fill light when taking a selfie.
Hot shoe levels are so inaccurate as to be worthless except as a shoe cover.
@@ma3xiu1 that sucks, the level really should've been designed as a cold shoe accessory
@@stephenarling1667 you can get a more accurate one, they are gravity powered so don't see how they can suck if built well
3:12 That brush is definitely not a sensor cleaning brush. do not, under any circumstances, use for cleaning your sensor. It's usually used to dust off lenses, lens bodies, camera bodies or any general dusting of equipment.
100% never, NEVER, EVER use one of these brushes to clean your sensor. I did and it left the senor about 5 times DIRTIER than when I started as tiny hair and fibers from the brush are left on the sensor. They can also scratch your sensor and I was very lucky not to of scratched mine.
Be prepared to get a nasty message from them in the near future trying to rebut this comment
@@astheskylarksings why?
You should face the camera towards the floor when using a blower on the sensor
Agreed. It (gravity) helped me get a tough dust speck out several times by facing the sensor towards the floor while using a blower.
@@geoffreyenriquez agreed x2
Definitely!!! Otherwise the dust can just settle back onto the sensor. I change lenses the same way.
I always face the camera body toward the ground when I change lenses. I have had my two D850 and my D810 for years now and have had very little in the way of dust on my sensors, and I do change lenses fairly often. 😁
Thankfully with the EOs R the sensor cover has meant touch wood I’ve not got any dust in there to date.
"You can get little hot shoe covers, your camera probably came with one"
Canon users, "I don't get it" lol
Latte Double Shot Nikon has seemed to stop including them also. 🙁
@@matthewkeisling2776 Time to switch to Sony I guess! 😆
Nah. I ordered a Nikon one for a couple of bucks. I will probably try a third-party one later, to see if they measure up. When the time comes for me to go mirrorless, Sony is obviously a top choice.
Latte Double Shot 🤣
Yeah that's a big one with Sony my a6000 start not functioning a little because the flash sensors got wet. They really need to put that one in the instruction booklet dumbasses
Run 2 brushes, 1 for lens cleaning and the other for general cleaning.
Some tripod parts may have lubricant on them which may be transferred to the brush and then whatever else you clean with it.
I use a soft toothbrush as my general brush so it never gets used on lenses by mistake.
I lost a screw not long ago from my manfroto tripod and ever since ive started always checking for anything loose. Glad you mentioned this!
Tony, you mentioned using a soft brush to occasionally clean under "things" on your camera. A very good Idea.
For outdoors photographers, there might be a time where you're climbing or slip where part of the camera gets mud on it. Soft brushes don't work well in those cases. Instead get a toothbrush that you have cut the handle shorter to fit in a small space for emergency times. They are just a bit stiffer and work well in most cases.
Use it the same way as the soft one you suggested.
Be sure the firmware update comes directly from the manufacturer's site.
Unless it's Magic Lantern. When I was shopping for my first ILC body I considered getting an old Canon specifically so I could run Magic Lantern firmware.
NEVER, EVER, EVER use one of those 'sensor cleaning brushes' to clean the actual sensor of your camera. Take it from someone who did exactly that and trust me, it leaves the sensor about 5 times worse as tiny hairs and fibers come off the brush and are left on your sensor. You also run the risk of scratching your sensor with these things don't do it!
Oh? Then tell me: How the hell do you clean your clean your sensor? With a Q tip?
@@scotthullinger9955 you dont touch the sensor. You send it in. Nikon actually made it to where only they can repair the cameras. And it would be like the shutter in my d3500 going out and me trying to replace it myself
@@scotthullinger9955 Many modern cameras have a dedicated mode that will reverse the polarity on the sensor to remove the charged dust particles that were attracted to it due to the flow of electricity through the sensor. If you need more than that, and honestly, you probably don't. Either you use dust deletion built into the camera, or you send it to a professional that knows how to clean it without damaging it.
Unless you're working in a very dusty environment, the likelihood of requiring the sensor cleaned is rather unlikely. The sensor heats up with use and will tend to cause dust to be pushed away. If you don't change the lens a lot, there probably won't be much inside to be attracted to the sensor in the first place. Much of what does get in there will probably be discouraged by the dust removal routine that many modern cameras have.
Thanks Tony, I had to share the video with some friends. They think I am crazy because I maintain my equipment like you were showing in your video. No matter how much I use my camera and lenses, they look brand new.
Everything you and Chelsea do is helpful. Thanks for this video.
I 100% attest to the safety of keeping your lens hood attached. It won't always save you, but I've dropped two lenses in my lifetime (one when changing lens and the other slid off my bag) and both times the lens hood absorbed the fall. Stops me bumping into trees and such. Keeps rain off. Also probably reduces dust/sand. Best of all, it makes the lens look cooler
Agreed with all of that! But don't forget its primary purpose is to keep the sun out of the lens, thereby reducing flare & haze. But I definitely use it for protection too.
Thats not a Sensor Cleaning brush thats a lens cleaning brush, slip of the tongue! Do not use it on your sensor!
Saw that too.
glad you said something I was like, really?!? cool.
I stopped the video the moment he said that so I could leave a comment. You beat me to it!
@@grandetaco4416 DO NOT TOUCH THE SENSOR! EVER! YOU PROBABLY DONT KNOW WHAT UOU ARE DOING (anyone in general). SEND IT TO THE MANUFACTURER
@@jeepjoseph9036 the manufacturer will do the same thing that you would, you just need to learn how to do it correctly. youtube is a great place to learn
Great vid, Tony!! Lots of tips that only come from experience.
All great tips Tony. A good reminder. Thanks.
Excellent video! Thank you!
Great info Tony thanks. Just got started in photography. Need all the help I can get, from your videos.
thank you.Tony
Tip for keeping fungus out of your lenses: Put some silica desiccant packets, scavenged from new shoes, clothes, bags, etc, in your camera bag. I have about five hidden under dividers in my medium-sized camera backpack. Adjust for your size of bag. They'll draw moisture out of the lenses, stunting fungal growth and also helping to keep corrosion at bay. As a bonus, if you put any lenses in wet (wipe them off first, though!) they dry off super quickly.
Thanks, Tony
Nicely done. Thanks for the reminders.
Tony, Thank you so much for that very informative video!
Tony, Thanks for making all of your videos. You and Chelsea are the bomb! I just move to manchester CT. If you do anything locally, I will try to come support you guys.
As usual, great video. Same as Tony, I do "not" screw a filter onto lens unless in a harsh environment, e.g. salt air/beach. This does not apply, of course, to ND or Polarizer filters when necessary. Then, when I do, I use a Nikon Clear.
For all those questioning Tony's battery replacement regime...
Rechargeable battery lifetime is determined by charge cycles rather than time, and small ones like camera batteries are usually only rated around 300 to 500 cycles (it would be nice if manufacturers would publish their actual figures). So if you're using enough juice that you have to do a full charge on all your batteries at least once on a daily basis then they will indeed only last about a year before their capacity is significantly reduced. If however you only have to do a full charge every few days, or once a week, or less, then you'll get a few years out of them.
Sort of. Ideally, you should never charge a Li-on battery past 80% or discharge to zero. If a battery every gets all the way to actual zero, you'll probably be unable to charge it at all again. Most of the time when it hits "0%" it's 0% of what it thinks it can still use without destroying the battery completely.
In practice, unless you're doing a ton of shooting, like as a pro, you're probably not going to do enough damage quickly enough to have that be a bigger factor than the natural oxidation of the connections inside the battery. But, if you are a pro, or somebody that shoots a ton, you're likely better off buying additional batteries and keeping the charge in that range. If you occasionally dip blow or above, it's probably not an issue, but you will get longer life out of the batteries if you charge from roughly 15% to 80% and keep it in that range as much as possible.
Amazing content , very beneficial . Thanks 👏🏻
Good video. A couple of notes that you (Tony & Chelsea) probably know, but might help others. First, Nikon has apparently stopped including little things like the hot shoe protector with new cameras. In addition to your suggestion to buy a little stack of them, it's also a good way to round out a purchase if you are close to the free shipping or discount threshold. As for tripod heads, some (Manfrotto) tripods include a set screw under the plate where the head screws down. You snug down the head, then turn the set screw from below to keep the head from turning to loosen. Keep up the great content!
I cover hot shoe with a nice Chinese *rubber square with level bubble* . Protective and practical.
Paul Kretz I have considered these as an alternative, because not all cameras have a virtual horizon option. Thanks for affirming that these work for you.
I saw that too in Thailand, but my wife didn't let me buy it. 😅😁
@@CristianCalhoun That's one of the reasons I do not marry, LOL =)
Cristian Calhoun, sell the lady and buy that level
@@PaulKretz , you got it! :D Or: it's just one more reason to get divorced. :D
I get my camera cleaned by Sony in Tokyo at least once a year. I book a day/time in advance by phone. There is an Alpha booth onsite with a specialist technician equipped with amongst other things a microscope. The process takes one hour and you get a before/after image of the sensor when they hand the camera back. The process costs 2,000 yen and they are very, very thorough. Process is all in Japanese and the S/N has to be in their DB, so probably not going to work non-Japanese speakers or cameras from overseas. The service is also available in other main cities around Japan.
Your Beta testing method is one that I've taken in all things electronics/software. Thanks so much for this newest video!
Thanks--so very useful! And, lol, thanks for using a Manfrotto tripod as an example--I just got mine full of sand from a beach shoot, and your points gave me confidence to go in there and clean it up. Just finished and working much better, thanks again. Will keep in mind the other points too.
Thank you!
Great information. Thanks
Just came back from Iceland as well. Had my portable kit with me to keep my RX1 and RX10IV clean... glad that I only had to worry about the lens protector and rain, the weather and sand in Iceland was crazy...
Thanks for the good advice.
Always solid real world practical advice. That you can use.. Thanks!
I usually disassemble my tripod to clean the inside of the legs and levers. The supplied allen/torx key isn't the best, so I recommend getting a larger driver of the size. I also fabricated my own "cleaning snake" by taking a metal clothes hanger and making a slot to fit a rolled napkin securely. Since its that small, I don't have to worry about scratching the insides of the legs, and the napkin adds a layer of cushon. You may also lubricate the leg sections by following your owners manual, but I haven't seen the need for it. Lastly, when assembling the unit, be sure to not over tighten the screws as you could risk damaging the threads or making it impossible to pull the levers, (if any).
Thanks Tony! Good Stuff.
Great tips! KI still have the same batteries from 3 years ago...so far so good.
Thanks tony
Useful info, thanks!
Great info. Much appreciated by a beginner.
Great tips to maintain a pricey asset. Thanks 🙏🏽❤️
Cool, thank you
Nice, thank you for the suggestions! I just started with photography, this video was helpful
Great tips!
I have mentioned this before, but some experts think that using any unfiltered source of air, such as an unfiltered bulb blower, is dangerous. First, if the bulb blower has ingested some grit (Iceland!), it will propel this grit toward the sensor at high speed. You really don't want to sandblast your sensor surface, especially with volcanic pumice. I have a slightly more expensive bulb blower with a filter on the intake valve. Second, I've never done this, but it is certainly possible to accidentally scrape the tip of the blower across the surface of the sensor. I would be especially careful about using a bulb blower while the sensor is facing downwards, unless you are holding the entire camera above you. Third, supposedly a lot of the dust that used to be on the sensor inevitably ends up elsewhere in the camera's inner cavity, no matter how you clean it. Blowing a hurricane of air into the entire cavity could easily move lots of dust back onto the sensor. Finally, static electricity has a hugely attractive effect on dust. It is well known that blowing air over an insulating surface can induce a static charge. In fact, the manufacturer of my sensor cleaning gear suggests that you use a blower on the sensor cleaner brush to charge it. The dust is then attracted to the brush.
Tony is a legitimate expert on camera matters, so I am not objecting to what he is saying. I would just like to know why he disagrees with the advice of other experts.
@W N , good points. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough, but I am willing to take Tony's word that some of my suggested precautions aren't necessary. I just wish he would explain why he disagrees with the other experts.
@W N , you bet I remember! Do you remember all the smells of a darkroom?
Thought I had dust on my XT-3 sensor, turned out it was on rear element of 55-200mm lens. The rear element is very close to sensor unlike DSLR, so check that too when you see a slightly blurry spot.
Good reminders. One other thing I do regularly is use an alcohol wipe on the mating surfaces of the lens and camera. You’d be amazed at the amount of material that collects on the wipe. I assume most is dust but the tolerances are close enough that some may be metal shavings, particularly with a new lens or body.
I agree 100% on the batteries. However, I believe that, in the case of the Leica C-Lux, the battery for the Limix ZS-200 is the same thing. They are almost identical cameras! Thank you for your video!
You stop using a battery after a year??? Sent them to me!
It is good from time to time do the manual sensor cleaning from the menu. First put the lens cap on. In addition to cleaning the sensor it checks for hot pixels and masks them out. This at least with Canon.
Two of those mirrorless blessings: Sensor cleaning and battery changes. I keep my dlsr somewhat longer.
I own a dslr and i get dust in a regular basis could be because i change lenses a lot and most of the time is outside. Also same for battery after year or year an a half becomes a not reliable battery.
Well done:) Love the tip about filters. Having a filters at a beach is a good idea. IMO.
I just bought a HS COVER... don't know how i lost it but i did.. good tip tony
My original LP-E6 battery has lasted for 10 years already and still going strong. Came with the 7D when purchased new in 2009. Over 150K shutter count.
Same as mine. On one pack i can shoot through whole weekend. Usually i go to even with only one charged battery and whatever is in the rest, no need to overcharge things.
I have very seldom needed to use a backup battery during the whole time I have using the 7D, perhaps 2 or 3 times in 10 years. In the meantime, the backup battery had to be replaced several times.
from 2015-2018 I shooted from Monday to Saturday with the same 2008 batteries (x5 Np-fm500h) from Sony that I bought for my a700 later used in my a99. Just maybe, temperature storage helps to maintained the batteries. Quick tip, used green tape to see which one is charge.
what great advice well done thanks for the reminder stay safe see ya
Good advice - a session with the rocket blower and brush are important at the end of every day out with the camera, especially working outdoors and changing lenses often! Retractable make-up brushes are really good and cheaper than the 'photography' versions ;)
Hey tony this is actually a nice video.
Thanks!
You blindly feeling around for the hot shoe was funny. :p love your work and love these videos.
Happy shooting photos.
if you want the camera to work properly with the lens dont forget to clean the contacts that allow the lens and the camera to peak to each other. if you are using your gear in damp or winter weather they can corrode easly as they are brass.
Awesome channel! Thank you. Just a comment on Loctite. To get the most from the Loctite, be sure to remove all oil from the threads with acetone, alcohol, etc prior to using. Also, I’m assuming you’re suggesting using the blue Loctite as the red Loctite requires you apply heat to remove.
Yes, there are several different loctite formulas. The blue is the one to use, the others either require heat or extreme force to break through if you decide to loosen and retighten.
Also, If you expect to tighten and retighten in the field, but don't want it to come loose, you might be able to get things drilled for safety wires or replace nuts with castle nuts that will take a cotter pin. In the vast majority of cases, this is not necessary, but if you're expecting to dangle $4k, or more, in gear over the side of a cliff, it's probably worth doing. Otherwise, you'd likely want to skip it.
one thing that tripped me up for far too long with my mirrorless travel setup is confusing dust and dirt on the rear lens element with sensor dust.
unlike with DSLR's some mirrorless lenses are so close to the sensor that the effect is the same... I think my MFT kit went in for sensor cleaning at least 3 times before I realised the smudges were only on the shots with the wide angle zoom lens... and the spots were only on shots with normal zoom lens... ...and that they were the same on both bodies :( yeh felt a bit dumb for not picking up on that earlier
Thanks for this video, great channel. I recently unknowingly used some expired lens cleaner liquid to clean several of my lenses. It was one year expired. Should I be concerned that this might have damaged the lens coating? How would I spot any damage? Would love your thoughts.
Also highly recommend those keyboard cleaning slimes for cleaning tripods and whatnot.
I just stick mine in the dishwasher once a week ... job done. Joking.
pthompson108 🤣😂😆
Olympus shooters really do that
my dishwasher is a female, where are we going with this???
sam nelson identify as you wish. Why does it have to go anywhere?
Should work for weather sealed equipment ;)
Hi Tony & Chelsea, Do you guys have any recommendations as to where I can purchase accidental damage insurance for my camera and lenses? Thanks a lot for the video.
I have Canon DSLRs with OEM and 3rd party batteries that have been in use for many years and tens and tens of thousands of shots. They seem every bit as good as the day they were first put in use. They have been recharged hundreds of times. If they have lost any capacity it is minimal. My oldest batteries still in use are from my backup camera from 2011. My primary died last Fall and I have been using the backup while I wait for the new Canon 90D.
once upon time my NIKON D5300 affected with moisture after proper service still have issue with it what you suggest go again service center or change my 18-140mm DX
I bought a7riii in March and went backpacking for 3 months wish I would have bought a skin to keep the body in good shape but I guess it is better than it collecting dust in the closet.
Nice video. I have never dropped a camera without a strap but several have fallen with one.
Hi Tony, brilliant video, I'm just wondering, what would you suggest for built up dust I've found in my front lens cap. Any suggestions please?
Great video 👌. Does it matter how you store your lense in your camera bag? I put mine back first standing up. I didn't have a hard case so I don't store it all horizontally.
Depends how you treat your gear. If you're thunking the bag along the lens' axis, that's probably an issue as that's going to stress things out more in the long term than if it gets thunked sideways in a cushioned case.
But, as long as you're not doing that, it probably doesn't make much of a difference and prime lenses will probably have less issue witht his than zooms do. I've never personally had an issue with it, but it's definitely better to go sideways if you can.
Sensor dust may be more serious than one thinks. I have fungus growing on a Fuji XA-2 sensor. I never cleaned it depending entirely on the vibration cleaning. I did leave it up on a shelf for 6 months, so it may not have been the dust itself, but fungus likes to eat things without air disturbance.
And for those who have waterproof cameras and snorkel/swim/dive with your camera, make sure to thoroughly clean the camera with a brush (normally provided) in clean fresh water and make sure it's completely dry before opening any of the doors. Also, before you enter the water, make sure there isn't any hair or sand that would defeat the waterproof seals and cause the camera to flood.
You can buy little bubble levels that fit in the hot shoe. They cover it, and great in a pinch to keep your camera level.
What about using a lenspen? I generally use it to make sure there are no grease spots on the lens, and I've used its cleaning tip to clean the sensor as well.
So useful, thank you, Tony! I just wouldn't dare to touch the sensor ever. 😃☺️
my method to prevent sensor dust - have multiple bodies - I hardly ever change lenses :) I hate changing lenses - yes it will cost you - a professionals must own several bodies - say wedding photographers, a wide ( can be APS-C) - a 35or50mm a 85/135 and a 70-200
So 3-5 bodies - for a Pro 2 bodies a must - so adding 1-2 additional bodies - say one for second shooter and one for backup in case one fails - so really 3 needed - adding 1-2 more will eliminate much of lens changing -
Sony A6500/6400 or Fuji XT3s are ideal for say the wide angle lens -
Not once have I seen a wedding photographer using more than 2 cameras. 2 is fine: one with a portrait prime and the other with a good quality short zoom.
Worth mentioning that you should keep your camera in a horizontal position when you run the auto sensor clean - at start up, close down or when doing an extra auto clean. It shakes to make the dust drop onto a sticky pad, I believe.
The autoclean typically reverses the polarity on the sensor so that any electrostatically charged dust on the sensor gets pushed off. Some cameras may also have some shake, but I'd wager that's only cameras that have sensors with built in image stabilization. Most of the time, autoclean uses gravity to get the dust to fall away from the sensor after being pushed off electrostatically.
Tony, do you have any suggestion as what to do when your camera, weather sealed or not, has been out in the rain and you bring it indoors ? Do you let it rest, dry it with a cloth, use a hair blower, or are there better ways ?
You mentioned using clean water to maybe swab a tripod with...actually many parts of the camera that have nothing to do with electronics can also benefit from the cleaning effect of water but not in DRIPPING quantity. What I do is i BREATHE onto the part that needs a bit of moisture. The moisture that forms is actually condensate, and the water is literally DISTILLED WATER which is the purest there is. I've breathed lightly on front elements of lenses before wiping them with a microfiber piece, it always ends up pristinely clean you can see a rainbow forming in the glint!
My tripod, the Sirui W-2204 is waterproof and it's absolutely the best tripod I have ever owned and I have owned quite a few including a $1300 RRS tripod. I highly recommend the Sirui to everyone and especially wildlife and landscape photographers. You still need to wash off salt water, but fresh water is totally fine so if you don't put it in the ocean, you'll be ok and wont have to clean it all the time.
3:50 About those hot shoe covers. The cover that came with my EOS M50 was rather loose and I worried I'd lose it so I bought third party ones. They were much tighter but as a side effect they disabled the internal flash. If you use third party covers and have an internal flash, check that. If they disable it it is no worry as once you know you can remove the cover while you use the flash. If you do not know it can ruin the shot.
I have learned a method where when I change the lenses I keep the body without lens the minimum time possible. The camera is on the strap and first I pick the new lens, loosen the cap keeping wit with my forefinger, then with my left hand I loosen the existing lens, keep it pushed in with my palm while I take the cap between my left thumb and forefinger, then I swap the lenses and put the cap on the old lens and pt it away. Now I do not know how this would work on big lenses, my longest is 10 cm. In close to five years since I got my second lens I have got dust twice on the sensor.
Also clean your lens cap, if you're like me the cap goes in a pocket or thrown up on the dash and that can collect dust and dirt which will be transferred to my lens when I put the cap on .Clean the inside of your lens hood too ,I take it off when using the blower and get the dust off of the hood at the same time before putting it back on the camera
Actually most sensor dust is not sand or dust but tiny metal particles from the lens mount. I do a lot of urbex photography, switch lenses in old Industrial buildings but hardly ever get sensor dust. I often clean the lens mount and the back of the lenses with a wet cloth or lens wipe
A repairman of my acquaintance recommends this, as it's a major source of internal grime.
"Throw out your $70 battery after a year".....um yeah, no.
Pity there seems to be no consistent universal metering device to report usable battery capacity, like there is for NiMH and NiCd cells. Proprietary sizes of calendar-limited batteries is such a racket, like calendar-limited injet cartridges.
Well, one could take it as them simply saying... if you noticed a drop in battery life, and the battery is a year or more old, that is normal. He also said they have stretched it out to 2 years. I have had some pretty good luck on my Canon batteries.
My canon battery still going even after 6years and my older one from 10years. Of course as a professional it would make sense to change after a few years.
Another ridiculous statement from Tony.
@@djsuth7727 yes, no , maybe.
If you are a pro you go thru batteries but as an amateur who has multiple batteries and cameras I still have some 10year old ones for my xti backup camera which work fine.
the frequency of changing batteries it depends if you're a professional or not. I still have the original battery of my Panasonic G7 since 2015
Is there ever a time to use the spray cleaner which comes with lens cleaning cloths to wipe the lens?
Per several Li-ion battery manufacturers: If you're not going to use a Li-ion battery for a while (a month or more), it's best to store it at ~50 percent capacity. And 60 degrees F is ideal if possible. Do not store in freezer.
People freeze their batteries!?
My hotshoe cover is actually the extra eyecup I have my camera. That's not something I would lose very easily. I still have the original hotshoe cover stored too just in case.
I have my original D300s batteries 😂 have no issues whatsoever 😋
Don't vacuum inside your camera. I did that and it somehow pulled dust behind the focus screen and also into the viewfinder. Thankfully I was able to disassemble and clean it all out. But it caused an awful amount of stress and hassle.
lol, imagine your distress and the shift of the mood from being proud of yourself after finding such a smart way of cleaning your camera, stopping the hoove, looking at the viewfinder and next cursing at yourself for almost ruining it completely :-)))
Never use a hoover on any electronics. They build up static which can short the electronics you're trying to clean.
I used to use quite a bit of legacy glass when i first got a sony a7 due to the high price of sony full frame glass and the relative quality of minolta lenses for very affordable prices.
I used to be afraid of the dreaded mould in a lens, but as long as the mould hasn't etched the glass you can do something about it. Instead of leaving it on a sunny window cill you can get cheap UV sterilisation wands. Not a black light torch but a proper UV-B/C light, shine that puppy into a lens a watch it burn away the mould. But obviously don't watch it, don't look at it or shine it onto your skin!!
Another trick I have had success with again only on older minolta lenses that are built like a tank. To get rid of that dust which is inexplicably in amongst the lens. Take the front and rear lens caps off, and get your dyson hoover nozzle against the rear of the lens (where you mount to the camera), then clingfilm between the lens and hoover, then turn it on. I have pulled out a good amount of dust like that.
I still have a nikon battery from 2014, its the one that i most use, and still works just like my newer ones hahah