Rooting Fig Cuttings | A foolproof rooting method | Check the new 'No Shock' transplant method
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Rooting fig cuttings - The easy and foolproof way of rooting fig cuttings without failure, everytime, with no fear of mold or rot. This video describes the easy steps i refined and use in my method to root fig cuttings (my essential tips). This method also works to propagate and root other plants.
Table of Contents:
1. Labeling - 0:38
2. Wrapping - 0:59
3. Scrapping - 1:32
4. Rooting Hormone - 2:07
5. Rooting Medium - 3:02
6. Moisture Level - 3:59
7. Root Development - 4:24
8. Pot Medium - 5:44
9. Watering - 7:19
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IMPORTANT - DON'T MISS PART 2 :
New Transplant 'NO SHOCK' Rooting Method Video - for Improved Results When Potting UP - • Rooting Fig Cuttings |...
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Rooting plants from cuttings can be much easier if you pre-root plant cuttings in coco coir first. This helps a lot, as the cutting only goes to a pot when it has at least a few roots, so the success rate is much higher.
The slightly damp coco coir and the use of parafilm prevents the rotting of the cuttings and the negative effects of mold (that can't penetrate the cuttings wrapped in parafilm), even with varieties that take more than 6-8 weeks or even several months to develop roots.
I usually root plants from cuttings in the Spring when it starts to get warm and sunny, using dormant cuttings. The winter collected cuttings, wrapped in kitchen film, can wait in the fridge, for several weeks (even months, until it's time to use them).
However the cuttings shown in the beginning of this video were started in November. They were kept over a lid of an heated aquarium and the cuttings liked the 'hot feet' approach very much, as they developed lots of roots in 4 weeks.
As i said in the previous rooting video, if you root cuttings indoors with artificial light and temperature control, you can do it as early as November.
You can also use green cuttings during summer or fall (more delicate but they also root well) so, if you pay attention to temperature control, you can do it pretty much year round, although i would recommend from February to April/May (in a zone 9a, like mine). Adjust, if necessary, to other warmer or colder areas).
If you have any questions, leave a comment and i will try to answer it, as soon as posible.
____________________
Music - CZcams Audio Library
Lunar Landing - Silent Partner
Don't Look - Silent Partner
This is one of the best instructional videos I have ever used. I followed your instructions to a "T" and I was blessed with rooting less than 3 weeks into my propagation efforts. Thank you for your step by step instructions and expertise! I look forward to potting them this winter and giving them away to friends in the spring!
It is such a rare thing in plant-youtube to find a channel with so much content, always straight to the point, no fooling around with click-baits or several minutes of hot air and chatter in the beginning. Just a person with tremendous expertise and knowledge with a generous spirit and very pedagogical organization of the videos. I'm laughing a bit, because this shouldn't be such a rare thing, but I can't remember the last time I saw something as genuine as this on youtube. Both sad and thrilling! Either way, much appreciation and encouragement to you. I wish I had something constructive to say, but I'm just all praise. Thank you!
Another GREAT VIDEO! You are rocking it friend! And thank you for the subtitles - so much better than an hour of talkie and no action. You have the right formula, for cuttings and videos! ROCK ON!
Great demonstration. Why can't they all be this good?
I really appreciate this guidance. I lost too many well-rooted figs in the transplanting stage. I think I overwatered them, and I know I compressed the new soil. Thanks very much!
ok by far the best video ever watched about rooting great work!
I've been try but fail,
I will do it now for 20+ Fig cuttings with your way, hope no more fail... 👍💪
flippin brilliant, i thought i knew a lot about growing plants. you are the man the myth the legend. those are the best looking fig roots i've ever seen. i cant believe how much you actually covered in less than 8 minutes. the best!!!! thank you!!!!
Well done! I just received my fig cuttings and will get started today. Thx
A no BS video with great subtitles of both How and Why explanations. The scraping method works great. I'm a fan of rooting hormones (I-3BA and NAA). I Like that you mentioned the importance of exposing the meristematic cells during scraping. You do know your stuff....THANKS!
Thanks. The use of rooting hormones are always in debate among the rooting communities. It doesn't help that plant hormones do several different things in different concentrations, so the right amount (concentration) is key to a good outcome and it can vary according to plant type. I believe that's why people have such strong views about them (loving or hating them, mainly because of different results, due to brand/concentration issues).
So true. Some plants (willows for example) need no hormones to root.Got any tips on preventing mold during rooting? Ever use Physan 20? Ever disinfect before applying the IBA?
I found out that, unlike other rooting mediums, by using coco coir only slightly damp, fungus problems are greatly reduced. I even stopped disinfecting my cuttings and i usually don't have any fungal problems. I even tried to reuse coco coir, several times whithout any kind of cleaning or disinfection and, in rare ocasions, some patches of white fungus did appear on a couple of cuttings, but the parafilm doesn't allow them to penetrate the cutting and they are easily removed.
@@JSacadura Thanks. What concentration was it that you used in the video. I'm sorry I tried but couldn't read the bottle or find it in the comments so far. I have been reading the literature and I'm leaning toward 0.6%, but the studies show too much=bad, just like you mentioned.
I think I found the answer - that bottle is for the EU market - 3.3g/L = 3.3ml/1000ml = (3.3/1000)*100%=0.33% IBA - that's recommended for moderately easy to root varieties from my reading so far. Thanks again for sharing all your great work in this area!
I am terrible at rooting things but your method really makes me look like a pro to my wife and neighbors. I did as you said on May 17, 2019 and used coco coir. My pan did not even have a lid but I put aluminum foil over the top. I checked on them 6/27/19 and their are lots of leaves on just about every plant or you can see a bud with one coming. I would think that means roots as well. Hope so anyways. I will pot them in a couple of days but I dont have those tall planters, will have to do with small pots that came with other plants in them, of course I will wash them. I live in lake city fl but was visiting my wifes aunt in dothan al. and got some cuttings from her. One of her fig (turkey) trees is about thirty by thirty feet and taller than her home. And they all really produce and she never adds anything to them. My wife and I love fig jam made the southern way. When we lived in alabama we would put up about 24 quarts but since we have moved here to florida we havent done any. Will have to check around for a place to pick some until my plants get larger. Early this spring I picked up a brown turkey fig from walmart for $5.....it was about six inches but now its got three branches and around three foot. But thankyou for your help in the rooting method. This was my first success in rooting. Keep the information coming.......
I am glad you succeeded, Don. Beware that leaves don't always mean roots. When the temperature get higher and we root in late spring, if the cuttings are exposed to abundant light they might develop leaves before roots. Check one cutting to see if the roots have developed enough for you to up pot. Don't expose them to direct sun light right away. Allow for an adaptation period on semi shade. Good luck with your plants.
Gracias por todos tus videos, Han sido muy útiles. Soy nuevo en el cultivo de higos y no he tenido problemas para que se formen raíces en todos mis recortes de higos.
I am doing everything wrong! The roots you have got are awesome!
Best video on the internet on the subject. Watched all your videos most of them a few times over and I eagerly check back for the next. How any of your thoughtful, artful, instructional videos can receive a single thumb down is beyond comprehension! keep them coming good man, they are a joy to watch.
Thanks. I appreciate the support and the incentive.
Excellent tips. Concise thorough video.
works beautifully ! thanks
please suggest some fruit trees I can graft on a pear tree because my pear is not producing fruit
1 tip if I may, pour out rooting hormone into a container and dip from there. You can create cross contamination issues
You are right. I didn't worry about that because the hormone is reaching the expiration date and i will not reuse what's in the bottle. Nevertheless, the only way to completely avoid any cross contamination would be to pour the hormone on the cuttings. Even by dipping the cuttings on another container, cross contamination would probably occur.
Love this jam playin in the background
Great tutorial, and thanks for the watering tips. Foolproof figs coming soon to my house. TY.👍
Table of Contents:
1. Labeling - 0:38
2. Wrapping - 0:59
3. Scrapping - 1:32
4. Rooting Hormone - 2:07
5. Rooting Medium - 3:02
6. Moisture Level - 3:59
7. Root Development - 4:24
8. Pot Medium - 5:44
9. Watering - 7:19
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Share the video - czcams.com/video/cwPvmG9sK_Y/video.html
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czcams.com/users/JSacadura
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IMPORTANT - DON'T MISS PART 2 :
New Transplant 'NO SHOCK' Rooting Method Video - for Improved Results When Potting UP - czcams.com/video/Gi9cafJQjwQ/video.html
Bon Dia! I have to ask you, I used parafilm like you did here. Somehow it created mold and rot underneath. The nodes were oozing black liquid and it was rotting at the top, it was a number of my cuttings. What do you think happened?
A great, helpful video. I followed most of the method (also sterilized the cuttings in 50:50 peroxide/water) and have small roots after 2 weeks. Also some leaves, although I keep the figs in as dark a place as possible. Thank you!
Glad it helped! When the scions are rooted when they are almost leaving dormancy, they tend to produce leaves ahead of roots and that can be a problem since the young roots may not be able to support them. Nevertheless, the cuttings usually bounce back, even if they loose a few leaves has long as they have enough reserves to produce more. Good luck with your cuttings.
Great vid on rooting fig cuttings!
I was trying to find someone to show me how to propergate fig cuttings,sure happy I found your video.
It was easy to follow and very interesting.
Thank you for sharing👍🌹😊
Please tell me where to find the clear tape?🤔
The tape is "Parafilm Nursery Grafting Tape" by Bemis. Search it in Google and you will find links to Amazon and Ebay. Beware of knockoffs that are just plastic tapes.
@@JSacadura
Thank you!😊
Hoping that figs become common plant anywhere!
Ok... obrigado pelo esclarecimento e pela sua disponibilidade.
Abraço
PLANTING GANGSTER!! Thank you!!
Thank you. I'm new with rooting cuttings. I've never actually tried it, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, Elizabeth. I believe that if you try this method and take care, when potting up, to avoid overwatering the cuttings, you will have a good percentage of success. Good luck with your rooting.
We just take cutting and put them in a jars of water changing the water often they root the same. No hormones no tape, no scraping.
Supposedly the water method of rooting the cuttings produces fragile roots..
Informação objectiva, completa e detalhada. Muito obrigado!
Much valuable video . Thank u sir
Maravilha de vídeo. Muito interessante e didáctico. Parabéns e obrigado!!
Can you do video focused on where place your propogation box and get video footage where yours is placed.
I'm finding this the hardest part and not much comes up when Google search
This is starting to sound a little cliche but it is another great video, thank you again sir!
I don't mind :-) It's always nice to see that our work is appreciated.Thanks for the comment.
thank you!
Great video.
1 question : what is the purpose wrapping with parafilm.
the purpose of the parafilm is to prevent the nodes/buds from drying out. The parafilm will prevent mold as it is breathable but also retain moisture
When do you remove the tape? Excellent video, thanks!
Hi, Thank you for your videos ! I have a fig in pot thats dormant now. I have read to give half cup of water per month while dormant. Also I have read fig trees in the pot only need twenty inches of water per season. Would not it be better to measure with a meter whether dormant or in season to measure with the meter to keep the soil moist at all times ? Also, I put my fig plant in pot on my driveway during season and some people say not to because will dry out or burn roots. They say better to put on top of mulch bed in yard or to put sticks underneath the pot to elevate it off of the driveway. What are your thoughts on this. I always thought the more heat the better? Thanks much, Mark
Hi, Mark. Usually, with fig trees, the more heat the better. But that's with established trees, in the ground. In pots, trees will suffer, if the temperatures get too hot and the soil gets too dry. In the summer its important to keep the tree with enough moisture in the pots (not too much) or they might dry out. Adequate placement of the pots might help and avoid problems with long periods of hot weather. Regarding the use of a meter, I sometimes use it when watering small rooted figs (although you start to get a feeling by weight if its necessary to water) - check my video on the subject - czcams.com/video/umA6DpY2vMI/video.html.
.... Mejor imposible. Gracias por tu
Exelente explicación!
Gracias por el comentario. Un saludo.
@JSacadura onde compra o parafilm em Portugal? Teria um link? Obrigado!
Wow 🤩
Muchas gracias por tu sabiduría infinitas bendiciones
Excellent video, thanks! Do you allow the rooting gel to dry on the cutting before inserting into coir?
Excellent info, thank you.
Good morning, i'm italian. In wich season it is possible to make this type of cutting if i can use an hot greenhouse?
The best season is late winter/early spring. But you can do it in the winter. I started rooting in November in my greenhouse. It's not ideal, as the cuttings take much more time to root, but they eventually root (2 months is not uncommon - most cuttings have roots already). I usually start my main batches of rooting in mid January and these will take much less time to root and i can repot them and place them outside to grow when the good weather starts.
Hi, I live in Australia, we're currently in the middle of winter. I have some cuttings, should i root them in the dark or outside? And should i use heating mat under the cuttings?
Thanks
Also, do you know if adding liquid fertiliser to the coco coir will increase rooting percentage (i only have 1 cutting of the varieties i am rooting)?
When rooting in the winter, is essential to maintain a steady temperature, so a heating mat will help. In the first couple of weeks maintaining the cuttings in a dark environment, may slow leaf development and bu break allowing more time for roots to develop first. Liquid fertiliser is only added (very diluted) when the roots are already developed (after potting up). They are not needed in the rooting fase.
Hello, quite informative...I do have some questions though:
1. Can I get some cuttings now(in dormant season...winter...) and root them ?
2. Why only scrape a bit...why not all around?! Or just cut out a ring of bark all the way around ?
1. Yes, you can. I am rooting cuttings since November and preparing a new batch to start next week. You just have to keep them in a place where the temperature isn't too cold (20 - 24º C is ideal) or they won't start producing roots until it warms up.
2. Scrapping has 2 objectives. Some undifferentiated cells near the node start changing into roots when the tissues are disturbed or wounded - you only need to wound in a small strip. Removing a ring of bark is only needed when air layering, so the energy produced in the leaves doesn't go to the roots of the plant and nourishes the developing ones, near the air layer. That doesn't happen in rooting cuttings as energy accumulated in the cuttings can't go anywhere. Also, removing a strip of bark allows the hormone to enter the cutting, near the node, where most of those cells are and induces the change into roots more easily.
Добрый день я с России,я в шоке от ваших ростишек,браво!!!!!!!!
Can you root cuttings from Apple, pear, or other fruiting trees? Love your videos!
Thanks. This method will also work for most types of fruit trees, but not all of them can develop fruit well in their own roots. Sometimes its better to graft them into more resistant root stocks that adapt well to local conditions.
Thanks, Jamie
thanks a lot for sharing
Please make a video on citrus and mango trees propagation. Or somebody please suggest a good channel on those two fruit trees
Boa noite Sr. Sacadura
Qual a melhor época do ano para enraizar arbustos do tipo lavanda e outros, preciso de preencher uns espaços de terreno para ornamentar e como ainda é bastante área fica bastante caro a compra.
Obrigado
Abraço
Desde que se realize o enraizamento numa zona com condições controladas pode ser feito durante quase todo o ano (primavera, verão ou outono. O período de enraizamento é bastante longo (habitualmente mais de 2 meses) pelo que manter a humidade (no meio de enraizamento e ambiental, com o uso de spray) e controlar os fungos simultaneamente, pode tornar-se um desafio, principalmente se a temperatura subir. A reação à hormona de enraizamento também é variável consoante a proveniência e algumas estirpes enraízam pior com o uso da hormona.
For India summer how control temperature for guava cutting.
Muy Bueno el video...
Superb video ( added to favourites).
I have brown Turkey fig (I'm in the UK/ would that work ok as a rootstock for different fig varieties to graft onto?
Thanks. Yes, it will work. Brown turkey is widely used as a rootstock in some countries. I use local varieties (installed trees). They all work fine.
@@JSacadura
Many thanks 👍
Wow beautiful know you sell any of those fig trees
Sorry, no. I am using all the cloned fig trees in a new orchard. Maybe in the future.
Amei. E já fiz algumas estacas. Estou aguardando a Lua minguante para fazer experiência com fruta nativa Cambucá.
Obrigado, Bia. De notar que algumas plantas não se conseguem reproduzir por estacas e outras demoram muitos meses (e não semanas) para desenvolver raízes. Só mesmo testando com cada uma. De qualquer forma, este método permite manter um nível de humidade adequado, por tempo prolongado sem que as estacas apodreçam, como acontece com outros métodos que já utilizei. Boa sorte com seus enraizamentos.
@@JSacadura , obrigada. Vou testar com o Cambucá porque ela demora 20 anos para frutificar. Sei aonde encontrar galhos de uma com algumas dezenas de anos e tentarei enxertar na jabuticaba, uma vez que são da mesma família e as estacas na caixa com o substrato. Obrigada. Gosto muito dos seus vídeos.
The Polyethylene grafting tape is breathable by CO2 and Oxygen; Do you think that paraffin or soy wax would also work?
VerryGood
Thanks for your tips
Are you still using the same method or have you changed anything?
Are they any that suffer from transplant shock?
Hi I'm using your method and liking the ease of application. After roots have formed, I put my cuttings into cups and then these go into a large bin near a grow light with the lid on for a few days. To acclimate to the humidity change, I open the lid a crack, then halfway, then take it completely off over a course of about 5 days. Unfortunately, most of the leaves which grew have since drooped and/or fallen off. I thought if they survived the transfer to cups more than a few days, they would have survived. What am I doing wrong? Will the leaves/buds re-grow?
Some cuttings just have a bad reaction to the potting phase. It might be the change of medium, different soil moisture, etc. If the root system isn't working properly for some reason (some times for excessive moisture in the mix) they might let the leaves fall off when trying to survive. Most of the times, if the conditions improve, they will bounce back and the leaves will grow again. If the conditions don't improve or if the cutting has spent all its energy it might dye.
Can one use some additive to the water or vitamin to feed the roots? I saw it somewhere but can't seem to remember.
Good root growth, but too much disturbance isnt good when transplanting them from your box to pot. In my vids I show the cup method and how there's zero disturbance at all, and you can also visually see each and every one of the cuttings progress. Good video tho 👍
Hi. Thanks for your comment. I agree that rooting in a cup can have less root disturbance, but only you root in a medium that can be up potted as it is. If rooting in perlite or other rooting medium, for instance, when you up pot you usually remove most of that rooting medium, so the disturbance is unavoidable. And rooting in a cup with the definitive medium (mix of potting soil) doesn't produce results that can match rooting in coir (at least for the most difficult varieties to root). Also, the coir is so easy to remove from the roots, when semi dried, that the disturbance is minimal (i usually remove the cuttings from the coir way before the roots have the development seen in the video, which helps a lot - those roots developed faster than i expected).
@@JSacadura agree to disagree lol. Everybody has there own way of rooting cuttings, just throwing out a way that works for me with 100% success rate. You do have some good ideas on working grafts and cuttings... you just got a new sub, keep up the good work.
Thanks. You are right. It all comes down to our own experience and what works for us. In the end, everybody has to adapt our suggestions until they work for them. Happy holidays.
Brilliant what do you think about using normal building sand as rooting media? It drains well & is quite neutral.
I have used several different mixes of sand, soil and peat moss. Some are better for some fruit types but, to root fig cuttings, I always come back to coco coir. Its much easier to control the moisture level with it and the fungus are quite slow to develop in this medium, which is a big plus.
Thank you very much!! Best fig rooting video I’ve seen. I’m trying it now. 4 varieties Late Black, Champagne, Hollier and Alma. I have a question. Where do you get the tall thin pots for transplanting? I can’t find any on the internet quite like that. Thank you again.
They were not easy to find online. Now I am lucky that my local store has bought them in quantity. Search for "Forest Tree Pots" or "Tree seedling containers"
Greenhouse Megastore has good prices on these and many other container sizes.
I have only a very few fig cuttings.Where I could buy/get -/+ 100 cuttings resistant to - 5 Celsius?
Do fig cuttings Need a cold period or a stratification period before they’ll send out roots?
They really don't. You can cut them in late fall, in the beginning of dormancy (after they lose the leaves) and start rooting immediately. They can even be rooted from 'green' cuttings, although that's usually is a bit more difficult.
JSacadura ah okay thank you!
Would I be able to use the rooting powder? Thank you for the excellent demonstration.
Most rooting hormones will work, even the powder form (don't use too much). it will even work without the hormone for most varieties. It will just take longer for roots to develop.
followed this as best as I can , 2 weeks some have mold on them , not sure covering is a great idea in florida
In very humid environments you have to open the lid every day to let the excess humidity escape, otherwise you will get mold. You can even root with the lid open, as long as you keep the coco coir moist. Nevertheless, if you used Parafilm, it will prevent the cuttings from getting mold directly (just wipe the mold out).
@@JSacadura ok thank you .. that is helpful!
@@JSacadura I did use parafilm trying to emulate every step .. just to add the parafilm degraded.. it us also possible I did not dry out the coco coir enough initially as the areas in the coco coir of some rotted which was a separate problem
Its very easy to have excessive moisture in the coco coir as it absorbs water like a sponge. You should be able to squeeze it in your hand and no drops come out, only the hand gets a bit moist. If the Parafilm is degrading so quickly, that would be one of the reasons.
I do the same thing but the third day appelong mushrooms on the Earth. I'm not adding water.
Should I open once a day? should he receive sunlight?
Hi Franco. I suppose you are saying that you have fungus growing in your rooting medium. If that's the case, with just 3 days, and you are using coco coir, its too wet for sure. Open the box at least once a day, so the moisture can evaporate. In the first 2 weeks sunlight is not needed only a constant temperature (like 26ºC). If it has too much moisture, closed and too warm you will have lots of fungus growing.
@@JSacadura How many minutes do you uncover it per day?
You can use turmeric powder or honey if you don't have root harmone
Thanks for the tip.
@@JSacadura , you can also use aleovera gel and cinnamon powder
Wauw, so good! Thank you for the video. Do you sell Rimada cuttings?
Greeting from Australia and Thank you for the video. My question is does this methodology work for grapes too?
Regards,
Harry
It can be used with grapes with similar results, although i don't use it. The main reason is that we have to graft all our grape varieties to avoid problems with an insect (Phylloxera) that destroys roots of European vines. So, we have to graft them to American vines rootstocks that are almost immune to this pest (the pest was brought to Europe with American vines more than a century ago)
JSacadura, thank you the information, I look forward to your next CZcams.
Regards,
Harry
High mate!
Grapes are the esiest trees to grow! You don't need all that stuff to grow them! Our villagers used to trim the grape vines in January (our winter), they'll trim th cuttings ( leaving 2-3 feet of it), then insert the lower ends (as a bundle) in dirt and leave then there for nearly 10 weeks... with the advent of Spring they extract them and plant them one by one in their specified places without any redundant ado, and they grow fast-all of them!
(Best regards from PALESTINE 🌳🌺🌷🌹🌳)
Thank you Asad for the information
Regards,
Harry
I make some cutting but they started growing branch after growing roots... what is wrong? From tropical area
Hi! Great video. Will this work in Winter too? I have a cutting, but with no buds.
Odličan video... LP (Cro)
Very good videos - thankyou so much! Which country are you located in??
Thanks. I'm located in Portugal.
Hello great demo. But I have two questions.
1) Does the container need light? Or can I place it in a warm (but dark) spot in the boiler room?
2) Have you considered mixing perlite into the coco coir? I would think that doing it that way you shouldn't have to shake off all the soil.
thx for your reply
Hi,
1- Ideally, the container should be away from direct light for the first couple of weeks, so roots develop ahead of leaves.
2- I have used Perlite before but I prefer the coco coir and don't have it anymore. I have no plans to mix both, but its an interesting idea.If you try it, let me know the result.
Did you water the cutting until medium moisture reading? I could not see you reading on the monitor the camera did not focus on it. :/
With that amount of water it reached the 4th level (Wet). Just to show that you can water too much, if you are not careful (young roots don't like to be soaked. I prefer to learn the weight of the vase (dry and fully wet) and water accordingly to the plant needs (I only water when the vase fells light).
@@JSacadura ok I will go check all of my babies before I go to Church. Thanks so much for your reply!🙏🌿
Thanks for the great video. May I ask if this will work for Lemons, Plums, Peaches and other fruit trees?
Yes, it will. It might take more time for roots to develop (in some cases 4-6 months). Nevertheless, I would recommend choosing a robust rootstock and using a grafting technique instead - at least for Peaches and Plums and for all fruit types that will benefit from using a rootstock).
What companies make coco core without salt in it ?
When do you take off the parafilm?
Very interesting video. I will try your method. Do you soak the cuttings in hydrogen peroxide or bleach prior to starting to reduce risk of mold?
I did in the past. Nevertheless, using Parafilm to cover the upper part of the cutting, avoids most of the fungal problems, so I don't do it any more (its an extra step and I usually have too many cuttings to root and not much free time). But it helps in removing fungal spores prior to rooting. Be sure to use a diluted solution, so you don't harm the cutting tissues and dry them well.
Hi what sort of parafilm do you use seems to be a few different types do you have a link so i get the right one? best regards
What is the best way to store cuttings and transport them long distances before rooting?
Simply wrap them in kitchen film (the one used for food) - Important ! - Don't add nothing moist inside, like wet papers - that will create mold and spoil the cuttings.
The kitchen film will keep the scions internal moisture perfectly avoiding dehydration. It allows for long periods in the refrigerator (they can be stored this way, several months). Also, if the temperatures are not too high, they can be shipped by mail, in a padded envelope and resist more than 1 month of travel.
JSacadura se fizer a estaquia de uma figueira que pretendo e necessária a enxertia? ou tenho obrigatoriamente de fazer a estaquia de um porta enxerto e só depois a enxertia? Cumprimentos e continuação
Love the video. One question regarding the parafilm tape because I never have used that for my cuttings, do you ever remove the tape or no and hoe does the new shoots go through that tape ?
Thanks
No need to remove the parafilm. That's the beauty of this material as it protect the grafts and the growing buds can break it with ease.
Sir can i make rose rootstook cuttings in this way. I never tried chip budding but I will try it . I do (T) budding on rose
Yes, you can. Chip budding is a very easy graft to do. You just have to protect the graft a bit better so it doesn't dry out, as it is more exposed than in T-budding.
@@JSacadura Thank u sir. I will try and learn chip budding keeping your advice and information in mind
Can you plant directly in the ground with a good hole and soil after they come out of the coco?
You can, but the chances of the delicate roots being able to endure the variable soil conditions (usually much more difficult to control than a indoor pot), are not very good and your young plant might not adapt and die. That's why we usually pot up to an intermediate medium and only when the plant is more robust we plant it in the soil. Nevertheless, if you use the method of maintaining the young plants in the coco coir for longer periods (check my video on that method - czcams.com/video/cz6r2AbloPY/video.html) , the resulting plant will be much more robust and probably can be planted directly in the soil.
@@JSacadura thank you so much! Im ready to do this now, I came back for a refresher, I really appreciate your response
Hello, how do you make sure that there is no salt in the coco and will this work with other kind of trees like ficus thank you anyone.
The best brands don't have salt in them. If in doubt, wash it well before using, to remove any salt present, as it will kill the cuttings. Most plants will root with this method. Some might take much more time to root or prefer other rooting mediums. You just have to experiment.
Where about did you get those deep pots, I am having problem to find a source for it? THANKS Clement
Hi. They are not easy to find. At first I bought them online (I searched for "Deep Tree Pots"), but that store is now closed. Fortunately, my local store has some pots that are almost identical. Good luck with your search.
@@JSacadura I found a local citrys grower who agreed to let me buy some from him. Thanks Clement
What kind of pen writes in the white ink?
It's an edding 750 paint marker (but there are other brands)
So how long do you leave the lid off?
Will this also work for grape and blueberry cuttings?
For blueberry it works the same. For grape too, but it's not suitable for European varieties b/c of the phylloxera.
4. What's the purpose for making a fresh cut below the node?
The fresh cut allows for the rooting hormone to penetrate the vascular tissues so it can reach more easily the clusters of undifferentiated cells that are located near the node (where the new buds are). Influenced by the hormone (from the auxin group of plant hormones) these cells will differentiate into root tissues, instead of forming a new branch.
U r awesome
Also this method works for all fruit trees?
In theory, yes. Most fruit trees will root from cuttings (some are much more difficult to root than others). Nevertheless, you might not want to do that with every fruit tree as some don't grow very well in their own roots. With apples, pears and peaches, for instance, it's better to choose a good rootstock, adapted to our type of soil and graft a few scions from the mother tree instead. But several types (like figs, olives, citrus, lychees, etc) grow well in their own roots and can be propagated this way.
Can you use this method for rose cuttings?
I never tried with rose cuttings but it should work. It should take 2-3 months for roots to develop.
What do you think of Cerreto variety?