I Scanned My Film With 4 Different Scanners
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- In this video, I tried 4 different scanners, the Hasselblad X5, the Frontier SP3000, my Epson v850 and camera scan with Canon R5. The differences are... quite different!!
Thanks to @2071photo for the digital camera scans!!
00:00 Intro
01:19 What is Jpeg TIFF Raw DNG FFF
05:14 Scanner options
06:43 Compare all the scanners I tried
17:13 Conclusion
✨Check out my blog: capturedbysam.blog/
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If you would like to practice converting and color editing with my photo scan files, the link below contains 4 Hasselblad X5 scans and 2 Canon R5 Raw scans.
FREE DOWNLOAD: www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/br2ntphrym5ciylbkts5k/AHBU1ZFrdtX41SABiihEkK0?rlkey=lyug9frcr80xcxqmfqv0dky3y&st=vuel8g3h&dl=0
I had the same situation on the begging of my film photography journey. Doubting, compearing different types of scanning and converting negatives... The same was for different film stacks...😅😊😊
Eventually, not without debates and discussions with my friends, who happened to be professional photographers😮 I sticked with Epson GT-X980 film scanner and it's original Epson Scan software, scanning into TIFF...
As for film all search boiled up to Portra 160, Provia 50 for pos. and neg. colour photography...And Across 100ii, ADOX Scala 50 for pos. and neg. BW photography😊
This set up will let you pull maximum dynamic range, resolution and colours from your work/film/photos...😊
Sometimes I use Negative Lab Pro in my lightroom, just because I purchased it😅😜
But trust me Epson pro level scanner to TIFF and than play in tte LightRoom it's all what you need...
PS. For development, especially colour, I would suggest to stick with Pro level labs, for colour consistency and max Dynamic Range😊
Honestly, I prefer your edits in most cases. I haven't checked in with you for a while and I'm blown away by how good your videography and editing have gotten
Welcome back, and thank you :)
Frontier SP 3000 is my favorite.
It’s very popular indeed
I hope you get the recognition you deserve. Your videos are very informative and on the subject. MORE, YES PLEASE 🤭
Thank you!! Glad you enjoy it~
@itscapturedbysam always a pleasure 🙏
The R5 files edited by you were by far the best ones! The Flextight X5 (also edited by you) and the Epson colors were a close second and third. The clarity from the R5 files is ridiculously good. Now I want one 😂
Right?!! now I’m even thinking about switching to digital cameras scan!!!
@@itscapturedbysam Don't, even if you think the scan looks better, as part of jpeg processing, etc. you dump some of the information (colours/dynamic range), whereas the Flextight is still digital, if you strip it back, but importantly, its whole ethos is for max quality to the scan, so it doesn't dump anything (except dust, etc. When you tell it to in the settings).
Hint: this is the reason it takes 30 minutes to scan a shot!, it literally scans it 1mm at a time, hence the iconic status of the scans.
Why would u scan in jpeg lmao. Raw files have just as much dynamic range if not more then most scanners outside of drum scans or super luxury scanners. There are tons of comparisons online proving this
Well done. Thanks Sam!
Once upon a time I would spend hours wet mounting my negatives on my epson v850. A single roll would take at least an hour to scan… now I have a highly optimized scanning setup that uses a flash and a bunch of custom parts I made. My record is 28 rolls of medium format on one night! DSLR scanning gets a lot of hate on the internet for some reason, everyone wants to stick with the old scanners that creat those colors everyone founds over on instagram. But I think more and more people are learning that sometimes it’s okay to introduce some new technology into this archaic art we all love so much.
there are so many moving parts when come down to DSLR scan, the lighting, the camera sensor, the lens and so on... but different scanners also has the same amount or if not more parts.. So I always love to try different things and try to find the best way for me and my workflow.. there is really no absolute right or wrong ways of doing thing :)
Excellent presentation and humour! Great seeing the different scans.
Genuinely, this is a fantastic video. Love your channel 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Thank you ☺️
Such a fascinating process of different methods. Great video!
i love this channel sm. keep it up !!
Thank you ☺️
Thank You, Great Video.😎
Great comparison and shots!
Thank you ☺️
Amazing video. Thank you for showing me this :)
Love the tests and seeing the difference. @Captured by Sam I recently shot some Kodak Vision 3 250D! I got it scanned from a lab that uses a motion picture scanner (a Black Magic Cintel), the scans they give are purposely scanned to be like LOG footage (flat) with tons of image Data in order to self color-grade. I was very pleased with the results and the ability to add back the needed/desired look. I do enjoy editing my film afterwards.
Motion picture scanner!! That sounds funnnn~
20/10 video as always
Now you would never forget what Jpeg stands for 😎
Thanks for sharing these insights. I love that the analog world is very deep and goes far beyond of just taking the picture. From the lens, film stock, to the chemistry process, method of scanning, to the technician colour correcting and final edits you NEVER get the same result. I got into scanning my own film (mainly to save money too), and I find that my final results are also heavily influenced by the music I'm hearing when I'm editing 🤣 my mood and time of day also affect. At the end I've learned to appreciate the whole process as an artistic process rather than an exact science. There is no right/wrong just what you like 💛 and that's what make it so special. Loved the video
I agree!! The whole process is fun, why mainly why I shoot film...
Loved this video! I struggle getting the colors as beautiful when camera scanning, so I almost gave up on using it for color. But looking at the scans your friend made, gave me hope that it is possible!
Try JJC ES-2 and Negative Lab Pro. I've wasted money on a lot of nonsense, and this is the best approach.
Glad the video was helpful!😀
Seven minutes into my first of your videos and it already seems criminal to me that you don't have more subs. Please keep it up, keep it up, keep it up
Thank you :)
A fellow on another post (Nick from 5 yrs ago) preferred using a positive setting on the 'legs' of his Epson scanner film holders, in tweaking the 'film to glass' height for sharper imaging. My V850 Pro, like yours, has sliders for adjusting film height (instead of the neg/positive settings he referred to). Maybe adjusting the sliders on your Epson film holders might get sharper scans, too? Nice presentation, very informative, and I thank you.
Great comparison! I have a Plustek scanner that I use for 35mm and also a DSLR Setup for medium format with a macro lens. The dedicated plustek scanner is definitely an old device and the results are slightly worse then my DLSR setup but much less tedious to set up (dust is a major pain in the A). I am curious to see what the future brings. Many labs use devices that are decades old by now and dedicated scanning solutions have become very rare and the ones being sold are often also very old tech.
Maybe one day, there will be more and more of us film photographers and the industry will upgrade their old equipment for us!!hahahha
A lot here. Your v850 film holders do have micro height adjustments. You will need to test at different heights and figure out which will give you the best sharpness for your scanner. This should be a one and done for your scanner. I have a v700 and I am actually going to start experimenting with fluid mount scanning. This may have changed but there were some differences with results you could get with CCD scanners that you could not with CMOS.
With digital camera setups I see a lot of people not putting much effort to flatten out the negative when capturing. If is much easier to get a flat negative with a dedicated scanner. To each their own but I kind of feel if you are going to shoot film you may as well try to go those extra steps to get the best results out of your negative.
When converting film to digital there are two things that are going on 1) scanning / capturing 2) inverting the negative, and these are taking place even if you use software that does both in one step. For scanning I like to use VueScan to scan a "RAW" tiff that I can later invert. I say RAW with quotations because I do apply the digital ICE cleanup to the RAW so there is minimal corrections to the dust and scratches. VueScan has options that allow me to get the most detail out of that negative vs SilverFast or the vendor app. Now if you want to invert when you scan, VueScan has horrible color inversion. Silverfast has some of the better inversion out there if you want to go that route. To invert I will use either XnView MP with custom processing settings (which to my surprise actually works very well) of ColorPerfect. The only problem I have with XnView MP is that it will only export 8bit and not 16bit images. ColorPerfect is made to invert from negative to positive and has profiles for different films. I can get results very similar to Silverfast.
Now considering all that... the inversion part is going to differ a lot (as you stated) depending on who is converting. Scanning at home can take a long time but I would say it is worth it if you want to control the quality. Now if I can only get my hands on a drum scanner, hahahahahahaha.
Very eye opening! The quality of an image seems to really depend on the scanning results. Great video Sam! 👍🏾
if we digitized it. if we do darkroom print, that would be another story LOL~
actually love the first shot and the profile shot from the sp3000 scan
I liked them as well, very nice colours but they were a bit too dark in the dark areas to be terribly flexible to edit I think, especially in jpeg
Fantastic video!!!!!! I subscribed, thank you!
Thanks for the sub!
wow this video is amazing ive never seen these concepts conveyed in such clear and easy way to understand ive been doing film for around 12 years but still learned a lot, your the best !!! also those jepg lab scans are going to give me nightmares lol, im so glad i scan my own film now i would of never of known the the versatility being lost to them i wish i seen a video like this years ago !
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it :)
This video has definitely helped justify my next digital camera purchase 🤣
LOL sorry for your wallet
It will cost you a bundle. I like a R5 too. Then again, I can save some money by going for a Sony a7R III.
@@Aviator168 for a myriad of reasons including a mild case of insanity we’re pushing the debt ceiling for the gfx100ii
Nice comparison! I used to have an Epson V700 and they are never going to be able to match the sharpness of a modern macro lens on a full frame camera. The big plus was jus bulk scanning the film even though it took longer. Its nice to be able to set it and let it scan and you can do something else while it works. I really like the edits you made though. I was getting a bit frustrated with NLP because I have been having a hard time with consistent colors but this made me want to get back in there and work on tweaking settings more to get something I like. Thanks for the video!
I heard the new upgrade is doing better with consistency since they added roll analysis… but I haven’t personally try it yet..
Awesome video! Subscribed!!
Now I'm hoping you have done (or will do) a video on your editing process!
I have both a Fuji Frontier & Noritsu. For me, the look from those 2 scanners are much more pleasing to my eye than any of the other options. Daylight balanced films tend to look nicer on the Noritsu where as Tungsten balanced film looks better to me on the Frontier. The overall look of the frontier is what I call a finished product and a rarely need to edit. Both of these lab scanners are quite sensitive to chemistry. I also find the Frontier is very sensitive to exposure. If you don't expose properly on the Frontier you will see noticeable colour shifts. The Noritsu is a bit more forgiving. I usually scan 250D on my Noritsu, but sometimes I use the Frontier and just bring back the yellow cast of my Frontier using the yellow saturation slider in Lightroom. But I never need to do any serious editing at all. Hi-res jpeg is all I use from the Frontier and on the Noritsu I actually use the medium jpeg size as the large is ridiculously large.
I also embarked on the film photography not too long ago. I wasn't satisfied with the scan result from the lab, so i went on a bit of a search journey myself too. Wish i could have seen your video earlier. I started with a Epson V600 scanner that i already own. The result was not satisfactory. I find the image was very soft and often not in focus. Eventually 2 contenders were on my list, Plustek OpticFilm 8200/8300, and Pacific Image PrimeFilm XA Plus. Both scanner only do 135 negatives and slides. At the end i picked up Pacific Image PrimeFilm XA Plus, which won the race due to its auto-focus feature. This feature alone has make all my scanner so much clearer.
I only found out how soft my scanner is when compared with the digital camera scan, now I can not unsee that softness anymore lol~
Thanks for sharing. My lab uses Noritsu and at home I have the EPSON 850. Definitely a difference I am seeing on my scans
If I have to pick between Noritsu or frontier, I would probably go with Noritru..😀.
The frontier scan was so good! I love how cinematic they looked.
The camera scanning method is so fast and it makes me want to do that now.
I know, right?!! Me too~
Спасибо огромное за сравнение этих сканеров! Это супер важная и актуальная тема для меня сегодня! Спасибо!
Thank you for watching
I’m so happy I didn’t see all the results as I was scanning cause it would’ve made me do things differently, but wow even between you and I getting different results with the same raw files is kind of wild.
I shared the unedited files with people who interested in try it out themselves, it’s soooo interesting how other people edit the photo soooo differently!! all sorts of color style hahahaha
The R5 has 45 megapixels and it is very good camera, especially for digitizing films. I used my 24 megapixel EOS M3 to digitize thousands of film negatives last year, and they were super clear.
How about doing it like in the old days?
Negative Development:
Exposure: The photographic paper is placed in direct contact with the negative and exposed to light.
Development: The paper is immersed in a chemical developer solution, revealing the dark areas of the negative as light tones in the photograph and the light areas as dark tones.
Fixing and Finishing:
Fixing: The paper is washed and immersed in a fixing solution, making the image permanent and resistant to washing.
Washing and Drying: The paper is washed again and dried, resulting in the final photograph.
That’d be reallllllly nice!! I just don’t have all the equipment to do that yet sadly😢
Interesting. I feel I am an outlier with my film processing. I only shoot B+W and Ilford HP5+. I scan using an Epson V800 scanner using Silverfast. I scan using the lowest resolution setting Less Auto Sharpness(-) and I don't use Lightroom - only Photoshop Elements to remove dust as I self develop.With colour there is no control over the developing process. However, with B+W developing the choices of developer, temperature, agitation all impact the final image.
I use the developer DD-X or Rodinal if I want a very grainy image.
It depends what the reason for shooting film vs digital is. By using a digital camera you are getting a super sharp image very close to digital and these days sharpness seems to be perceived as better quality. If sharpness is the goal then why use film at all? A digital camera will give you a 'better' image . By using Lightroom you are just trying to convert your film image into a digital image so what is the point?
By keeping every step of my processing as analogue as possible - low res scan and only using Silverfast to tweak exposure, contrast and balance IMO I am creating an image where softness, grain, light and shadow are much more important than sharpness and that is the essence of using film as art. It certainly is not the sharpest scan or the aggressive Lightroom sliders. Regards.
Thanks for the video Sam! Did I miss the Noritsu scan? I was wondering if you instructed the lab technician to not make adjustments to the scans? That could make a significant difference as well.
I scanned the Portra800 film with Noritsu, I only showed a few in the video. the difference is not as big as Frontier. I didn’t instruct the lab anything, I just picked the scanner and file size. They do scan them in small, medium, large sizes… I just chose to scan large 😂
Hi Sam, my favorites were the Frontier SP3000 scans! Could you let us know the name of the photo-lab for the Frontier scans?
Is there any old school slow scanner available for that format? Like the Nikon scanners for 35mm films? Those still produce incredibly good raw file scans. Better then camera scans.
there are, the Nikon Cool scan series also scans 120, it's expensive, and also pretty slow if i remembered correctly~ really good quality though!!
Sam, when you say you scan with the Epson V850 scanner, do you do it with the bundled software, or things like silver fast? and have you seen any difference between these, as far as output (to photoshop/lightroom).
I use silver fast, just because it came with the scanner. it really shouldn't matter coz I'm scanning it as negative.. I haven't use other softwares, but I would imagine there aren't too much difference, if you scan them as negatives ..
Thanks for this great video! Love it ❤
I still use my old Minolta ScanDual IV film scanner, but with color negatives (not b/w) it is quite cumbersome to nail the colors etc.
I am thinking about switching to camera scanning, but as long as my film scanner is still working I hesitate to do so. 😂
Me toooo.. I’ve been thinking about switch but my scanner still works.. but the sharpness is sooooo attempting though!!
Great video thanks!
To my taste I preferred the way the Frontier scans look. It got like a "mature" looks. Especially on the contrast for the girl under the tree. The branch's shadow looks like a face tattoo and I do like that. I think the issue with camera scans and flat-bed scanners is that people tends to edit them like digital pictures, and it does remove some of the specificity of film in my opinion.
One thing is for certain, I really hate Noritsu looks. I have scanned my two first rolls on negatives with those scanner and green shadows are atrocious. Never again. You don't need a TIFF file anyway, they usually do not contains more infos than JPEG.
emmm.. interesting... maybe I should one day go to a lab and ask the lab people what exactly they do differently with JPEG and tiff.. And you are not the only one who like the Frontier look, we all see color differently, that's the fun part of doing these tests~ :) thank you for watching
For camera scanning 35mm the Valoi easy35 is pretty popular
Yeah I’ve seen those~
Those photographs are stunning!
From what I’ve seen, flatbeds are generally the least sharp scanning options. Very informative test; I’d be curious to see a test between Canon, Fuji and Sony cameras to see what sort of color differences each sensor imparts.
Ohhhh.. that’d be a fun test tooo
It’s the biggest reason I haven’t gone dslr scanning, not sure how the camera brand’s color design will render the film. Then again, I guess the same is true for scanners. :-)
Dang, didn't expect such stark differences!
Right?! I was like… wow~ 🤯
Thanks for the video Sam, I enjoyed it along with many others since I subscribed.
Just a thought that came from the fact that some of your scans were done on the Hasselblad scanner in the FFF format. It's just a guess but if you use the Phocus software the FFF format will allow you to use the reproduction processing > "Reproduction Low Gain: Linear but without the gain to match ISO. This will utilize the full dynamic response of the sensor but at an ISO response that is
slightly lower than nominal." Hasselblad sensors have between 14 and 16 stops and true 16bits to leverage.
It is also my assumption that the sensor in that scanner is calibrated the same way as the digital sensors of their camera, i,e; each is individually calibrated. If this is correct, in Phocus you would be able to use both the default Hasselblad RGB, as well as Hasselblad L* RGB color spaces and tweak the scans in Hassy's natural color science algorithms. :)
Again these are just guesses but worth some investigating
Cheers Sam
The lab told me to change the FFF to tiff with the file name, since Lightroom cannot process FFF format, I doubt that’s the correct way to do it… and I think by doing so I might lose some depth of the original file… I guess I could install the Hasselblad software to reprocess it again and see the difference 🤓
@@itscapturedbysam You're correct. Look the Hasselblad program Phocus is like most imaging software, it just take a bit of time to familiarize oneself with it. That said, a large portion Hasselblad's clientele are institutional; Museum's and for archival purposes they make the full data captured by the sensor available, similar to video log files.
There's isn't a lot on line about processing those types of files and most folks who have a digital Hassy are very happy using the Hasselblad RGB, however the Hasselblad L*RGB is a much larger color space. Sensors do capture a lot more data than those propitiatory color spaces make available throw their raw formats. I know as an example; that the Sigma FP sensor, is a % or two short of the entire Rec 2020 color space and that is also a Sony sensor which leads me to imagine it's probably true of most sensors in most cameras, but few camera manufacturers make it available, after all our monitor are way behind... and need to catch up.
Anyway, download the Phocus software and get the Phocus users guide, you'll find the relevant info page 60 under Reproduction, a section well worth playing with.
I look forward to your thoughts on the matter :)
Lovely video! Not to be one of those 'wElL aCtUaLlY' types, but both the Noritsu and Frontier are designed to work with C-41 and E-6 films, not ECN-2 films. Assuming you had your 250D cross-processed in C-41, so not only did you use a film type those scanners aren't calibrated for, but you've even used chemistry the film wasn't designed for. It's not likely you would get decent results in that scenario.
That being said, flat profile scans out of the Hasse and home conversions using DSLR/DLSM and NLP show huge advantages of being incredibly flexible with any and all film types. Just the same reason people were getting such hit-or-miss results sending Harman's Phoenix to labs while those who converted at home were getting lovely and warm images without issue. I mean it's about time that modern cameras finally start to compete with scanners made over 20 years ago. The future looks lovely for us home scanners. I hope one day Fuji will update and license the conversion software used in their famous scanners!
Thank you for the notes, I also had doubt about the ECN-2 process the lad did, although I didn't ask them to cross process, however I have no idea of what process they did with my film tbh... so yeah.. that's the moving parts I'm not very sure about... that's also the reason I'm doing these tests, to just narrow down the possibilities~ there are so much to learn still!!
I am also considering switching to DSLR scanning; the problem with flatbed scanning is that it's hard to achieve the right focus as easily as with the former, at least for me
If I didn’t put it side by side to compare, I might not notice.. but now I see it’s hard to unsee 😂
I would love to have seen a drum scan image vs the digital camera.
this is why I have 30 different cheap cameras . I like to see what a camera can do FOR me. And I always shoot jpegs. I am a printer of lithography and I have been mixing color and printing lithography for artist for 30 years and I don't believe anyone can learn editing very fast. Its like tasting chocolates or wine. You need a lifetime to learn. Thats why I shoot jpegs cos the people creating the jpeg engines were not born yesterday.
one tip Sam, I use a H2 with this back, I convert them {3F/FFF} using flexcolor v 8.6
(current version?) ,this gets them to DNG or Tiff to allow lightroom to see it, as otherwise we can't use the computers' photo viewer to even preview them (PS: this software is FREE!!!!)- if a bit clunky, it's main purpose was for the Flextight scanner {a user interface for it}, so you have to dig around a bit to get to the file convertor, but it's basic enough, at least for a primary edit.
got it~ thank you for the tip~
@@itscapturedbysam also the reason I say 3F and FFF is they are different, from my understanding of the manuals, 3F is the converted Tiff of the camera back, FFF is the RAW of the sensor itself, sometimes H1 uses one, and X1D etc uses the other, as one is 33x44 (under 6x4.5), the other is smaller, but still a raw file type, BOTH are used in Flexcolor as the primary raw format; Phocus has superseded Flexcolor now (2024)- my recollection is 2002/3? when flex was discontinued, aka updates, etc.
Try Nikon old negative scanner Coolscan 8000.
The biggest problem with camera scanning is dust. My goodness, I've been cleaning my film with PEC-12 and PEC-PAD and I still need to spend 10+ minutes cleaning the dust of a single frame. The advantage of camera scanning is most significant when you shoot Ektachrome, Provia, and Velvia, especially when your camera is calibrated with a Colorcheckr Passport like I did.
Most low-end film scanners have poor-quality CCD sensors (I have no idea what the expensive ones were made of), so the images scanned with these scanners have lower quality.
But who am I to judge? Turns out people like CCD sensors because "it gives the film look".
On a side note, it's also abundantly clear how silly it is to emulate negative film stocks since the film negatives would look completely different anyway. The only film stock worth emulating are color reversal films such as Ektachrome, Provia, and Velvia.
Interesting!! In my experience I thought flatbed scanners has more dusk problems.. it takes so long to clean the negative and the scan.. the camera scans turned out more clean than my own scan.. I don’t know, the camera is just soooo fast, I’m so attempted 😂
@@itscapturedbysam if you are having trouble cleaning dusts with film scanners, search for SilverFast iSRD. It should solve your problem.
Cool, what camera are you shooting this cine film with ?
Pentax 67II, the episode before showed the behind the scenes of this photoshoot.
@@itscapturedbysam Oh, yes, i did see it afterwards
I shoot 35mm, medium format, and large format black & white film.
I develop my own film and use an Epson V850 flat-bed scanner to digitize my images.
I am very satisfied with my results.
I haven’t got into large format yet, but I’ve been using my Epson, it’s good enough for what I do now… but it’s just really SLOW 😂
where looking for film hasselblad scan service in the usa ? thanks.
damn such a difference between the camera scan and the epson ! There are so many variables (film choice, scanner method, editing) that sometimes i'm really asking myself how we should choose our film stock! But yeah I tend to say to myself, now just shoot and don't overthink it haha
lol I ask that question tooo.. I basically just pick on ISO… then I pick on price 😂 so Gold 200 it is!!
@@itscapturedbysam 100% accurate Gold ftw 😂😂
question, how do you watch, let alone make a video like this and not just decide to shoot digital only? like if there is no inherent look to a film stock, only the look a digital scanner, sometimes even a digital camera, and digital editing produces?
I guess I'm currently find film and film cameras are more fun to use than digital cameras, I enjoy the process, and the tangible feeling of holding on to the negative... who know, I may go back to shoot digital in the future :)
@@itscapturedbysam wow first of all thanks for your reply, i love your videos and photography. that’s a great answer, i just think other people believe there is inherently more value and artistry in film photos that digital doesn’t have, and I this video does a lot to prove them wrong.
I use Epson V550 since 2018, but now I'm also interested with the camera scan. It would save lots of time and get the sharper image, compare to the flatbed scanner. If I wallet is big enough, I would get Fuji GFX to scan those of my films 😆 I also have not good result from lab. It's hard to find the right lab with my right taste. Getting TIFF from lab is also very expensive. That's why I still prefer my own scan instead.
isn't the GFX sounds so nice for scanning LOL !!!
@@itscapturedbysam It's like a poor man's dream 😂
That's why every time someone shows their scanned film, my question is always "How did you scan it?"
Scanners/macro lens scanning, backlight, development chemicals, development time, scanning software, and calibration all have their respective impact on the final image.
The difference between film stocks, for example, Kodak Portra 160 and Kodak ColorPlus is negligible when you use different software and scanner combo.
Hi Sam, what are some of your favorite videogames?
Don’t starve together?! lol I don’t really play much video games… Fornite 🤣
The hasselblad scans look like they have a slight green cast
they dose, I noticed that too..
@13:02 What? No Milo?🤣
😂
I don't know a lot about scanners but they use lens. Just look at photography lens they all have their own look and colors can even be different. Same with the lens in the scanner.
If you know about Minolta lens is well known about three nice warm colors they have and Nikon has cooler colors.
So who really knows what film looks like? There are so many different labs with different gear one lab your photos so look different from another lab.
yeah.. so in the end it just really comes down to how "YOU" want it to look and if you are able to make it look that way :)
Didn't know a negative can produce different positives.
Can I ask if this girl has ins or youtube, really like her style❤
I don’t think she’s on social media
please peel the protective plastic off of your scanner.
lol I had this for years and it still look like it's new~
solution: shot digital, that is why i only shot medium format film recently only, not only because of color whatever but for the experience, just because the format size is physically bigger than digital. This process is very similar to using lightroom and Capture One to open the same RAW file, they could be interpreted differently. So please shot film not because of its color, it is the photographer to make it look good by the end of the day.
It’s just so interesting to see how people interpret color differently.. it’s such a fun test..
這是什麼膠片？怎麼可能中畫幅帶齒孔😮
分装的电影卷 你可以看前两期我有讲～
And then there are different screens.
😂 yes!!
TIFF is a container format. It is most often used to store jpegs (but you can store compressed and uncompressed bitmaps too, among other things). It is NOT inherently lossless.
Noted!!
I think the question has to be rephrased from 'did you edit your film' to 'did you adjust anything after scanning with its default settings?'. No doubt about editing film but then don't call it the film look anymore period.. I wished you didn't convert your epson v850 scan with NLP but with the native epson scanner application or silverfast.. Once you had NLP in the picture, it's all the same thing in circle.
差别好大啊
我也惊到了～
Sp3000 wins
May be I am lost somewhere, but I didn't see the point of shooting on expensive medium format film and then digitize it. Especially digitize with full frame camera. Simply shoot with that camera. Only if you have some 20 years old negatives, whole process make sense.
I don't get it.
You suppose to compare the scans, yet showing only the color setting. LMAO
It's easy to adjust the color similarly to all of the scanners using digital editing. It's irrelevant.
What you should compare is, the resolution (details), the dynamic range, the noise and grains. Not color.
How the scanners manage high ISO film. ETC.
emm.. I should. I just don't personally have access to all of these scanners, what I have are the files the lab sent me. I'm didn't test the limits of each scanners resolution and dynamic range, the noise and the grains also comes down to the setting of each scanner, I'd imagine. I guess the title is bit misleading, I'm not trying to say which scanner is good or bad, it's simply showing there are difference not just the machine but the people who operate the machines~ so yeah.. maybe in the future I could make other videos to compare the technical differences of the scanners :)
huh so the film look is all digital and not the film itself. I guess i'll start shooting digital instead.