How To Take SHARPER photos 5 Tips For Instantly Sharper Photos
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- Sharper photos are usually something that you want. In this video, I will give you 5 tips for instantly sharper photos.
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Timestamps:
00:00 How To Take SHARPER photos
01:35 Tip #1 . Use only one focus point
03:15 Tip #2 - Using the right focusing mode
06:05 Tip #3 - Stop down
07:52 Tip #4 - Use focus peaking and magnification
10:49 Tip #5 - Use a fast shutter speed
12:44 Bonus Tip - Use the EVF
14:26 Extra Bonus Tip - Use a Flash
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This video was made with the following gear:
Camera:
Olympus OM-D E-M1 MKII
Lens:
Olympus 17mm f1.8 Pro:
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Dörr flexible LED light
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Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB
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JOBY GorillaPod
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![How To Take Sharper Photos - [5 Tips for Sharper Photos]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AF7dYMu5NXQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Good tips! I use stopping down quite a bit to make sure I have the subject completely in focus. Usually 1 stop does not alter the depth-of-field too much, but it helps with good focus!
Yet again, another informative and useful video for Olympus owners. And one that talks about taking better images.
Great video and explanation of focusing modes. Thanks very much Peter.
Thanks Peter for this helpful tutorial!
Thank you for doing these videos. I've learned a lot about my EM10 mkII.
The longest hand held I've done was a river flowing over rocks at two seconds. If you look really close, there is a slight blur, but you'd have to be a pixel peeper to notice it.
Thank you for watching. Two seconds is a great result.
Great Video for becoming a better Olympus MFT-Shooter - Sharpness is the most important ko-criterion!
This is a great tutorial Peter. Thank you!
Thanks.
Excellent summary of techniques Peter!
Thanks.
Thanks for sharing Peter.
Just discovered your channel. Been using Olympus since my OM-10 days.... I share your vision and so I am subscribing to get your pearls of wisdom. Thanks very much.
Thanks you. Welcome aboard!
Looking forward to your videos. I have just bought an OMD EM5 MK3, my first Olympus camera.
I find the series for "tips " to be really helpful- clear , precise and practical to try out. just 1 suggestion its really a good idea to demonstrate the tip in practice to show your viewers. a brilliant series !
Thank you.
Kiitos Peter muy buenos consejos como siempre, thank you .
Brilliant tips thank you. Followed on my EM-5 Mark I and this will help me no end as I’ve had plenty of disasters.
Thanks.
Superb tutorial - I finally understand the pros and cons of each of these settings.
Great to hear!
thank you Peter - I shall try and apply your tips on my next photo shoot for better images .
Very useful. Thank you 🤩
Thanks for the informative video. On my EM5 MK3 I use pre-MF for Astro because it has no dedicated stars focus preset. The touchscreen is super to select the right focus point.
Great information...it is very helpful to me as a photojournalist here in Chicago! Keeo up the great work...
Peter I recently discovered your channel, thanks for the excellent work. I have been shooting Olympus mirrorless starting with the E-PL-1 body. When the first OMD the M5 was released I just had to have one. At the same time I was a shooting Nikon DX DSLR cameras using both the D300 and D300S bodies. Over time I developed more confidence in the Olympus mirrorless line and actually used it (OMD M5) several times along with the Nikon gear on commercial shoots.
A month ago I finally decided to sell off all my Nikon gear and keep only my Olympus kit. I purchased a low mileage OMD M5 MkII and couldn't be happier with the purchase. I have equipped it with the accessory grip from Olympus and am able to use the Olympus battery grip on both my M5 and M5II bodies.
Now to the subject of my comment. When describing the various focus modes the Olympus bodies make available to you stated the S-AF/MF option was only available on the M1II and M1X bodies (5:32). Actually that function as well as C-AF/MF is available on all OMD bodies as far as I know.
I was wrong on that one. It works with other Olympus cameras also, but the way is bit a different.
Thanks Peter
I personally found "touch to shoot" feature very useful in S-AF mode for relatively still compositions. This reduces time span between focus-shoot steps to the minimum leaving less room for the subject to move out the "sharp zone".
That is true. You use it a lot?
I shoot a lot of bands playing in small clubs and I'll use a flash, usually with low power, and I'll have a really long shutter speed between a 20th and 30th of a second. This freezes the action without the subjects being over blown and leaves enough time for the background to properly expose, leaving a nice, evenly lit image that doesn't look too "flashy". I just the same technique to shoot people in the bar after the show. Works well even with the dinky on camera flash!
@UCuLqYqk2h3CWkCX0rX9waGg No motion blur on the subjects if you use a flash. The shutter is open a long time but the flash is on for an instant, which freezes the action. You can do cool light trail effects by having a long exposure and a second shutter curtain flash at the end of the shot.
Great, thank you. You mentioned coordinating breathing with shutter release.... You're a Finn, so you know that nobody has the techniques of this down better than biathletes. All the best, from New Zealand.
That was very helpful - thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Many times when at weddings I will use flash on the dance floor but it's not always freezing the action fast dancing. I will shoot at a slow shutter and use 2nd curtain flash or low power manual setting so I can add some panning or zooming motion.
Very helpful - thanks!📷
Glad it was helpful!
I've been enjoying your videos a lot, and picked up some great tips. I am going to sell my expensive cameras and just use my Olympus M43 for now, I've realized it does everything I need!
Sounds great. Thank you for watching my content.
Another great lesson thank you :)
Thank you.
14:26 I have pretty shaky hands, especially when taking pictures with a mobile phone. Using flash mode helps a lot with taking pictures of documents or anything indoors, such as when I photographed my leaky water pipes to send to the plumber!
Thanks Peter, will give some of your tips a try. I have been having a bit of trouble with focusing on birds, camera (EM1) with Lumix 100-400, tends to focus on the leaves that are near the bird rather than the bird. Bit more practice I guess.
Usually practice is the way. How many focus points you use?
Thanks for the useful tips.
Perhaps you could do a video on using rear curtain flash. I have tried it a few times on people dancing. It’s a lot of fun and with some skill you get very artsy results.
That is a good idea. It is a great way to combine sharpness and motion blur.
Love your videos.
Thank you.
Timeatamps:
01:35 Tip #1 . Use only one focus point
03:15 Tip #2 - Using the right focusing mode
06:05 Tip #3 - Stop down
07:52 Tip #4 - Use focis peaaking and magnification
10:49 Tip #5 - Use fast shutter speed
12:44 Bonus Tip - Use the EVF
14:26 Extra Bonus Tip - Use a Flash
Thank-you Peter,
Nicely delivered. A new subscriber to your Channel.
Rate myself as a enthusiast - ( Improver, not a complete starter ).
Thank you.
very good tips!
Thank you.
Thank you for your videos. While I only currently have a OMD E10ii, considering to upgrade to an EM 1ii. Regarding the pre manual focus, it sounds like that would be a good way to set up zone focusing for street photography. Pre focusing a wide angle lens, closed down, would help take photos faster and without having to bring the camera into a traditional shooting position.
True, that is one use for it.
EM10 ii is/was a great camera. Not for video autofocus though! For stills, great. Small, solid, gorgeous
Very nice video sir
Your brief mention of the DSLR split screen: that was indispensable back when I used a film SLR! That plus the micro prism collar are still the best focusing aids. Unfortunately, those features are almost nonexistent with the DSLRs today (maybe only in the pro level DSLRs?).
By default those are not in DSLRs. Some of them have changeable focusing screens that have split screen.
Hi there Peter! Hello from New Zealand! I have just subscribed to your channel as I learn a lot from it, as well as from the channels of some MFT YTers who talk about photography, as well, not just the gear.
I like the posture and breathing tip that you give on the video. It's very useful for me because I use the Lumix GM5 with the Lumix G 25mm F/1.7 which do not have stabilisation. My night shots at 1/30 sec are now consistently extremely sharp! Cheers.
Welcome aboard!
@@ForsgardPeter Cheers!
S-AF+MF is also available in the Olympus PEN-F, the camera which I use (besides the OM-D EM-1 mk III, which is a marvelous camera by the way).
Excellent post, Peter. Olympus spoiled us with the number of focusing tools in their cams - need practice for mastery. I remember analog slrs where the most sophisticated focus aid was a choice of focusing screens you had to swap out yourself - no push button. I use back button focus set for AF-C; hold button for continuous AF or simply press and release for the same result as AF-S. Preset MF distance is good for quick response in street photography when you know in advance that your subject will be at a certain distance. Ricoh has a similar feature they call snap focus - quick full shutter press causes focus at fixed distance you already established.
Yes, street photography is another one for preMF.
Good advice - You might have mentioned touching the screen for focus and light touch for sharpness. Keep up the good work- Thanks
You are right, focusing with the touch screen should have been included on this video.
love the intro
Thanks.
I don't use a flash either in my photography...but embarrassing to say I bought a flash gun many years ago, still boxed and never used. If you could do a video on how to use a flash gun...that would be great! Enjoyed your video on how to take sharper pictures. Many thanks.
Very helpful like your Chanel .olympus camera 📷 haven't got mor than 20mp is that effect the picture quality?
It depends what is meant by images quality. If it is measured purely by megapixels then yes, but if other things are also taken in to account, no.
HI Peter! I'm still learning about photography and you are helping me a lot with all your videos, so speaking about that bonus tip, you mean that even if the shutter speed is low, when a flash "appears" it freeze the action???
Thanks for your videos! And bye for now!
Yes, the flash freezes the action. But of course it depends on how fast the action is and how much natural light is lightning the subject.
For freezing action with flash, i suggest photographing the swirls of smoke from a match which is blown off.
Just a comment / correction to your excellent video. The AF+MF option also exists in the E- M1 (Mark I) in its latest firmware. I am not sure about others like the E-M5 Mark II.
A really, I have not used my E-M1 (mki) for a long time. Thank you so much for bringing this up.
Routinely get 2s handholding with EM1-II and 12-100 at 12mm. It's slightly crazy to think how that sort of thing has become "normal" now. Leaning or bracing elbows against something allows even longer - decent results up to 6 or 8 seconds or so. My tripod is rather lonely these days.
Great video, thank you so much. I didn't realise I could set the colour for the focus assist.
So many times I've struggled to photograph ladybirds, butterflies, and birds, because the red focus assist will blend in with the targets natural red colourings. lol
I have an OMD EM-5 MKII, and I've found I end up using the screen as a stabiliser, more than an actual screen. lol Resting it on my wrist when getting pictures to keep both my hand and camera steady and inline with my arm. Could I ask, because I still struggle with sharpness, how do you get proper focus on your subjects when they are prone to moving, such as wildlife. Would you know?
Glad I could help. Yes, using the screen as a support is a great way!
Cool video nice
Thank you.
Interesting : the stance you recommend for shooting your camera is much like the stance I use for archery :-)
It is the way to keep hands steady?
@@ForsgardPeter It's to have a stable and balanced base in order control the bow while allowing both eyes to see the target. It's traditional technique used for "instinctive" shooting (different from Olympic style). There is a Finnish girl with a CZcams channel who shoots traditional bows ("A Finn with a Bow") you may want to check out :-)
Yes, I just might! Thanks.
cool shirt. nice video.
Thanks.
Interesting, as usual thanks Peter. Imagine you have done separate videos instructing how to select various focus modes.
Take it that Pen F, which I have, does not have Peaf, though you say both that you have never used it & the distance set may not in fact be accurate. Would've thought a firmware update could have solved the problem. Who knows, but doubt any of this fine tuning will take place following in principle sale of the imaging division.
One comment that both you ,and other reviewers in general make intrigues me.
You shot this with the excellent Olympus 18 2.8.
Yet you say, as do reviewers of other brands of lens, that best IQ will not be achieved if lens shot wide open.
If I were to make the considerable investment to purchase, most likely, the 17 1.2 , as this 35mm equivalent of approximately 50mm, has most relevance to what & how I shoot, would want to shoot wide open at 1.2. Gives v shallow dof and best light gathering.
Appreciate that lens will have better glass, however most of the standard primes give excellent results.
Why lose the shallow dof and ability to shoot in low light by e.g opening lens to as much as 5.6?
Would appreciate your thoughts if you have time.
Informative video….please show us how to freeze motion using flash!
I have had that video in the making for some time...
I don't have Olympus gear, but I like your tips
Thank you. Many of the tips works with any camera.
Great video Peter and i have become a subscriber now, please do a video on the touchscreen on olympus cameras
Do you have any opinions on it?
Touch screen is a good addition when controlling the camera. Lets see if that is a topic for my future video.
Thank you.
In many cases, I don't want to stop down because I want a soft background. But the subject of interest needs to be sharp! So I use the depth of field preview button to make sure I'm getting what I want.
It is always a choice. Soft background is sometimes needed.
Peter, do you think it is possible via firmware to put the starlight focusing from the EM-1 mkiii to the EM1X?
Not really sure. The processing power is about the same so I would assume that it is possible. Will Olympus do it is another question.
S-AF + MF is also present in EM10 Mark ii
Yes I thought I saw that too!
Good video, useful tips. However: Careful! Flash will only freeze movement as long as it is the ONLY source of light on the exposure.
That is true and thanks for bringing that up.
you crack me up
On the E-M1 MKII, do you have the option to make only half of the screen to work as a touchpad for focusing, or the entire screen is active?
No, I dont think its possible.
Hi Peter another excellent video. You did not mention adjusting the EVF. I wear varifocal glasses and I think this may be part of my problem. Can you do a video on how to fine tune the EVF. Also does adjusting the EVF have any effect on the LCD screen. Many thanks
Good point. I have a video about the diopter correction in my channel. Is that what you meant? czcams.com/video/-hCxrNQHzog/video.html
Peter Forsgård yes, that helps - time to acquire a chain for my glasses, as I have been leaving them on. Does adjusting the diopter setting affect the image in the LED Screen, or is the EVF bypassed when looking at the screen. Many thanks for getting back to me.
The adjustment does not affect the LCD.
Peter Forsgård many thanks for taking the time to answer my queries - much appreciated.
This is from 2019. Peter did you do a video on how to freeze motion with flash? I have recently purchased a Godox with this goal.
No I have not. Maybe I should. Use TTL and flash power compensation. A longer shutter speed makes sure that there is motion blur. Also set the camera/flash to second curtain sync. This way the motion shows behind your subject.
Olympus em1 m2 12-40 pro 3s
💪
On my EM10 m2 and EM1 m2 in S-AF (M) the face/eye detection is deactivated when switching to only one focus point!
I need to check that. Thanks for pointing that out.
Thanks for pointing that out, I have been trying for so long to work out why my face /eye focus was not working, even tough I had it set up. On a Pen-F. You just solved my problem in 30 seconds. (Probably is buried somewhere within the manual, but who looks at that?!)
The day is not complete without "...and by for now!" You are a friendly face sir.
Thank you.
Premf would be perfect to focus the hyperfocal!
3 questions: please do a video on CAF & CAF with tracking. I find these super challenging. Secondly , how to set up and use back button focus with CAF tracking. I have this setup on my Pentax but have not tried on my EM1. Would like to use for dance photography. Finally how can I get the “F1.2” hoodie?
I am planning on doing a video about the C-AF and C-AF+tracking, but have not finished it yet.
Unfortunately from no where at the moment. I will open a online shop where it will be possible to get one. I had a shop, but the service closed it down for some reason.
Thanks Peter, great to see you on the group cast today with Rob and the gang. I’m going to check out Matt’s postings now too. He seems like a another smart and generous guy with a good sense of humor. Finland must just produce a lot of you folk.
I wish you had one for Canon as well..
Some of the stuff on this video is universal and has nothing to do with the camera brand.
Nice tips. However with my recently bought E-M10mkII + 12-40pro, I am rather disappointed with the AF abilities. Especially in low light conditions. Can´t get rid of the feeling that my old E-M10 mkI + 14-42 was better in focusing.
I wish Olympus would re-think not putting PDAF in the new E-M10mkIV body. Because I see no point in buying a newer body with the same old contrast AF. And do not want any bigger body with flip LCD like E-M5 and E-M1.
For my.olympus omd Mark111 , i cant find my raw file setting, pls advise.thank you
What settings do you mean? Turn on the raw file format from the Super Control Panel.
Been buggered by the P mode as it always goes for the most open aperture, 1.8 on my 17mm, in a well lit situation; I can't tell you how many times I've had an in focus eye and a slightly out of focus nose. Perhaps a secret to sharp focus is to not let the camera make so many decisions on its own. 😂
It is always a good thing to do things yourself too.
Bonsoir Peter , merci pour les vidéos , je ne parle pas Anglais mais j’aime tes vidéos par contre, je ne trouve pas dans les menus de mon Omd M1 MKII la ligne de réglage « tracking subject. »
Cette ligne ne figure peut-être pas sur mon boîtier . A te lire
Avec mes remerciements
Hi Peter, thank you for the videos, I do not speak English but I like your videos on the other hand, I can not find in the menus of my Omd M1 MKII line setting "tracking subject. "
This line may not be on my box. to read you
With thanks
@I can not find in the menus of my Omd M1 MKII line setting "tracking subject@ this feature is currently only present in the M1X.
The subject tracking is only available in E-M1X.
I set ISO to 200 and 4.0 0n the 12-100 f4. Than I made a nightwalk through our small town and took fotos. All (ALL) fotos were perfectly sharp up to 3 sec! OMD EM1 M2. Amazing! No trypot needed atvall...
Volker Wehres amazing !
Can you please do some flash photography vlogs
Yes, I could and it is in my plans.
I use flash on my film cameras to freeze Rodeo action at night
Rodeo would cool to photograph!
As far as I know, the S-AF + MF is an available option in all Olympus cameras, isn't that right? You don't even need to activate the option in the menu, it's available in the SCP. Did I miss something? (That is how I use S-AF all the time, so that when I touch the focus ring on the lens, it zooms and focus peaking comes alive)
Yes, you are right. I said it a bit wrong. It can be turned of in E-M1-series cameras and the way is a bit different than other Olympus cameras.
@@ForsgardPeter oh, that's interesting, it seems the high-end olympus cameras are diverging from the rest nit only in features and capabalities, but also basic features get ootions and tweaks as well. Good to know.
Hi Peter, i just bought the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II and i found your tutorials very interesting. I have question for you. Can you tell me if i need to update the firmware first before to use the camera and is there any risk ?
No you do not have to, but it is a thing that is worth doing.
Serge - If you plug the camera into the computer after installing and running the Olympus Digital Camera updater app the app will tell you if there is an update for the body as well as the attached lens (if it is an Olympus lens). Like with you computer or cell phone its always a good idea to keep the firmwares up to date IMHO.
Nice... use of a tripod where possible May be added.
True, that is also a good tip.
When hand holding you can use walls, trees and other forms of support.
@@ookiemand agreed in toto
Now that I know 5 tips for taking sharper photos, what is the proper way to sharpen knives?
Well actually, now that I searched how to sharpen a knife, my method is not that wrong after all.
Focus on the edge - possibly using a macro lens!
Ahhh, I pondered this too and found the answer czcams.com/video/Wk3scs5FqCY/video.html
Pre-MF! I never knew it existed! Plus you can set it by actually focusing in something manually then saving the setting. So do we need starry sky AF if this is accurate? Although mine is giving 999.9 metres maximum but maybe that's actually infinity!
3 sec with the Olympus em10 III and the sigma 16mm
I recall the old time photographers saying "squeeze" the shutter button.
Yes that was the way with older mechanical shutter buttons. The new electronic ones are slightly different.
Good video, unless I missed it, I don't think you included increasing ISO? Yes, you want to keep ISO down but I think there is too much fear/apprehension about this. Of course within reason.
That is a good point. Keep ISO low as possible and sometimes it can be quite high.
my record was 3.5sec handheld with olympus omd em5 II I think with a 25mm the image was so sharp then this become my dailydriver in 2015 (i have 3 em5 mkII and 2 original version) @zami_photography
3,5 sec is a very good.
My record is 1/10 of a sec out at 750mm.
With em5 Mark II, I can get up to 1/6 shutter speed : flic.kr/p/PN67L1
Will try to go slower with the holding technique you mentioned here 😀
About 13:30, don't breathe. Try slowly breathing out instead. Holding your breath you may notice your hands are picking up you heart beat and it gets stronger with time as one holds his breath.
Very good advice.
@@ForsgardPeter You're welcome.
What is it with Finns and their knives?
Not sure, but yes have a thing for knives.
@@ForsgardPeter I got a thing for well buily knifes too and I'm a mix of Swedish and Norwegian. I can recomend Fällkniven A1pro10
I tried not to breath during a five minute astrophotography shot. It didn’t end well.
Hey man, I've been watching your videos for a bit and just a quick tip. You should try to be more concise and explain in easier terms. Leave out some of the more redundant and unnecessary stuff, otherwise, it gets boring. 7 min would be perfect for this video.
Great content, I can tell you're more than passionate about cameras!
10 seconds
EM 1mkll + 12-100 f4
www.dropbox.com/s/2y2mupssl88usp9/Solhemsv%C3%A4gen%20%283%20av%203%29.JPG?dl=0
haha your record is way too high for me even to comment mine..
Peter, with regard to stance when holding the camera, a position that is adopted by natural history photographers is equally applicable to general photography and it keeps the camera more steady than holding it in front of the chest. Typically people are instructed to use their dominant eye which is often the right eye, well there is nothing wrong with the left eye provided of course you are using glasses if required, or have set the dioptre adjustment accordingly on the camera. The best way in my view (no pun intended!) is to turn sideways to the subject with your left side facing the subject, hold the camera in the left hand with the index finger of the right hand on the shutter release, now you will find that the left arm is braced against the body trunk and there is minimal movement, this is especially beneficial for longer lenses but hey why not try it for shorter lenses? I think instinctively many people will react saying, "oh I cant use the left eye", I think the situation is they can if they try, it just takes a little getting used to that's all.
As i was about to post I have just noticed below someone has likened this to archery stance, yes that is exactly what I suggest!
The reason I am using my right eye is that with my left I can see what is going on outside the EVF. I usually keep it closed and open it every now and then to check.
Really so disappointed with AF on my Pen F. It is a hit or miss disaster. Patiently waiting for the new EM5. I had the first EM5 and the AF on it was so much better.
Really, that is a pity. I cannot really say about that. I only have used Pen-F once. That was when it was released I had it for a day.
You haven't got to the point in life Peter (called 'born too long ago' :lol:) when holding a camera is not as easy as it was ; especially the heavier/longer lenses .. Using a one or two second timer does make a difference when the subject is not moving . Has a lot to with the slight (extra) movement when hitting the shutter button .
Another way; the second file may well be sharper if burst mode is used. Naturally, it does depend on many varying factors .
It can be amazing what you notice wrong in that seconds of watching the subject .