Amazing video.. had my t500rs do this year's ago so u bought t300..am finally try an fix it now.. you could make a fortune fixing these wheels with your knowledge and skill
Just want to say thanks for making this great video. My servo failed and had the same symptoms. After watching the video, I kind of rolled the dice and concluded mine had the same failure. I ordered the same triac you used but wasn't confident in my abilities. I ended up finding a shop to take on the job once I showed them this video. The only thing I wish this included was how to remove the power supply, but it was 5 screws (1 hidden towards the top of the servo). Great video and extremely informative/helpful!!!
Extremely well done tutorial and what a great find. Now if my $200 USD on a deal T300 flat dies I have an idea what to check first. To think a part that costs what .50 cents on the high side when not bought in bulk could possibly kill so expensive a piece of kit and it's not like it's an isolated issue and only with these wheels. All sorts of electronics die early deaths from very similar failures and if you have the knowledge/skill you can find some very good deals...
very clever. im just looking at troubleshooting thing for my wheel. mine still works. mine would squel when turning the wheel. be i set it up in a different room and it stoped. maybe a the old room is dry from sun heat. but i like how you think. great video.
I would be Amazing if you could do other videos showing how to trace and diagnose different issues. For instance, how do you test that a hall effect sensor is working properly. How do you test that the motor is good, etc.
Thanks for this! When I opened one I had with the same symptoms, the opto had already been replaced, but the LED current-limit resistor was 10x what it should have been, so it wasn't even triggering! One resistor replaced and it works perfectly. Without this video it would've taken a LOT longer to diagnose.
I had this same issue in a wheel that has been barely used, but is too old for warranty. Did the jumper wire trick while waiting for a new optoisolator to arrive.
You get a sub. I bought a tx off of Facebook marketplace and the little bastard didn’t have any way to test it but told me he was on it a few days ago. You might have just saved me good sir.
It is a sheer pleasure to see another Electronics technician who clearly knows how to handle solder and technique. I've just picked up my T300. Haven't yet opened it up. Whilst you were in there, did you take a good look at the power supply detail for the motor driver? Possible to replace the motor driver with a higher power rated (think monster moto) and drop in a much more powerful brushless motor?
So would it be possible to just remove the circuit board all together and mount a switch and just use the 2 wires coming out of that circuit board and manually switch the wheel on with a switch? Cheers.
Thank you for the video, really useful! And lucky you... :) 1. I bought a second-hand T300RS Ferrari GTE set, with a note that wheel turns on but do not calibrate. 2. When it arrived, in original box with the GTE wheel and pedals, I immediately updated the firmware with bootloader method on my PC. I managed to update and it auto-calibrated. I cleaned the units. 3. It worked like a charm for 200 km driving in GT Sport on PS4. 4. Then it died suddenly without any noise, right before I quit the game. 5. PC doesn't recognize it anymore, nor with bootloader method, regardless of PC3 or PC4 position. It's completely dead. Because it has no warranty, I disassembled the wheelbase and I noted the followings: - Wheelbase has never been disassembled before me, it was/is clean and tidy. - No sign of burnt motor or motherboard or PSU elements. - I tested PSU board's triacs but they seems to be OK. PSU with factory setup gives 30V and 5V to motherboard if its power cable & USB is plugged in (measured on thick and thin red-black cables right in motherboard socket), but doesn't powers up the wheelbase. No red light, no movement, nothing. - I assume something is wrong with the motherboard. Do you have any clue what could go wrong?
Mine has done this I'm guessing got to hot as was emitting a slight smell and was warm to the touch have tried changing the fuse but nothing no power light nothing thanks for the informative video
i 'd also try to find a way to leave the power adaptor outside of the wheel base. With a mod transfering the cables through a drilled hole on the side of the wheelbase right out of the wheel base, the power adapter should get better ventilation in the open air. The T500 and the new tw racer for pc, both have external ac adapters, i never undestood why thrustmaster put the adpater inside the t300, so here goes the overheat problems.
Thank you very much for the detailed video. It helped me a lot converting my t300 from 110V input to 220V without the need to get a new cable. But after a while I began wondering how the is triac able to switch the wheel on and off when its supplied with 110V if it only opens one of the primary coils. Maybe I am missing something but I understand the second primary coil is always closed and therefore powered when the 110V cable is connected to the mains.
In essence it is a simple dual coil transformer as in the theory books. The difference is that the input coil is actually made of two coils.They can be connected in series and work as one coil with more wire turns or connected in parallel and work as one coil with half the wire turns. The cable connector has access to the four terminals of those two input coils. Depending on the voltage rating of the cable it can connect two terminals to the power outlet phase wire and the other two to the neutral wire (two coils in parallel) or it can connect one terminal of one coil to the phase, one terminal of the other coil to the neutral and connect the remaining coil terminals to each other (two coils in series). What I did was switch the behavior of my input coils by rewiring the terminal inside the wheel base, before they reach the connector. For doing this kind of work I must say that one needs to know how a transformer works, use the proper tools to identify the right terminals to be changed and be very careful to make something that is first safe, then that won't kill your wheel and finally that is reliable enough.
I think I need to replace one of those things on the motherboard that has broken off, but when I search up the name "ACC 43A" theres so many different types that all look similar. How do I know which one is the right one?
You have made a very usefull video... and i had a hope (sorry for my bad english). Just a question to be sure. If when i connect power and usb base dont start and led too ... mean tha power supply is dead. Correct ? or problem is other ? thx in advance !!
Interesting video. Would be interesting to see the other side too but yeah, sounds pretty simple. Tempted to rip out that supply. I lost the cable. I ordered a new one for €18 from thrustmaster but it could take a week.
May i ask a question? First was that my son forgot and plugged in US version TMX Force Feedback wheel (110v power) to a wall outlet in Thailand (220v power). I took it to a small shop to recoil the transformer of the power supply of the wheel and also change it to accept 220v. However, when we plug the power supply back to the board of the wheel, we initially did in a wrong way (there are a 4-hole female socket attached to the board and a 2-hold male plug from the power supply, unlike yours), so there was a small spark. Once we realized and turned it around. Everything seems ok including the self-calibration at startup after plugging USB to xbox. The buttons on the wheel are responding normally while in the home screen. Problems started when we start a game e.g. Forza Horizon, F1, etc. The startup is very slow. The background music became 0.5x speed. The car control is a few second lagging. Immediately when we unplugged the USB, the game is back to normal. Control with xbox controller is normal. It looks obvious that the problem caused by the wheel just repaired. Any clues or assumptions you could think of that may cause this problem, it'd be very appreciated. Thank you in advance!
Would you happen to know what would be causing my fan to not kick in even with forced cooling activated? I've checked all the connections and everything is snug. The wheel works perfectly fine but without the fan after a hour or so or hard use my ffb begins to fade really bad
Is it possible that all T300rs's problems are coming from a bad power supply ? It is often said that the lose of FFB is caused by a motor overheat, but it could also be the power supply the problem, it overheats quickly (badly implemented), and provide less power to the motor than it should ? (and it could maybe explain the auto-calibration problem at start)
Hi, I got a christmas emergency and need your help :D Can you tell me which of the cable colors is connected to what? I didn't understand it completely in the video...here in Germany we got plus, minus and ground coming from the ac plug. Which color accords to which of these? Thanks in advance mate!
Its possible to bypass using the same psu, but only join back wires together? I think the plate is just a relay, that fires up when you connect the USD cable. My T300 RS dies during the GTSport game.
could it be the same thing on a t150? my wheel started smoking and smelling of bad things. im waiting for thrustmaster to get back to me, but its taking forever and also it was gifted to me by a friend, and they got it off ebay, the seller already gave him back the money and said to just junk the wheel. could one of those be the smoking bit that is dead? i know its something on the power supply because the smoke comes from the left side and the underside in the area gets warm.
Fantastic video, thank you. I turned mine on today for the first time in months & it's completely dead. No smell no buzz no nothing. Pc won't recognise it either so looks like I've got to open her up. Any links to where I can buy the parts you replaced would be appreciated.
Tim Coles try to change the powersupply. mine working fine 24v 3.2 a 60w. I've tested 19v it's start calibration but can't finish it, not enough power. there is a plenty on ebay
there is a link if you haven't got any at home, I'm sure you have laptop or soundbar I've tested with soundbar power supply it's 24v working good and laptops 19v, this one working but not enough power to play even for the calibration not enough link m.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-100-240V-12V-24V-2-3-5-6-8-10A-Power-Supply-Charger-for-LED-Light-Strip-/141938783919?var=&hash=item210c35f6af%3Am%3AmAMblGqV2dJHgSgBDVzE3IA&_trkparms=pageci%253Ae6b2f490-b14b-11e6-bba3-74dbd1a0908f%257Cparentrq%253A900568031580a357c0f7c7c6fff03be8%257Ciid%253A20&varId=441070400910
Unfortunately my wheel has this pcb and power supply working (I do get 5v from USB and 24V from power supply), stil no light or any life at all. Any ideas? I think maybe the main logic board is damaged but I'm not sure
Hi, I am a quadriplegic with use of my arms but not fingers. I have ordered the wheel and will modify it with a knob so I can drive one handed. I'm going to modify the pedals so I can use my left hand for gas and brake. Do you have any ideas on how I might hijack the shift paddles so I could shift by hitting switches with the elbow of my gas/brake arm? How might you create a set of switches that do the work of the paddles? Thanks. REPLY
Is there any way to put a protection inplace or better spec part, I.E Heatsink (if caused by heat instead of surge) fitting a manual switch, fuse, or remove the board completely and redirect the wires to a manual switch. This is becoming a common problem from what iam seeing. Fantastic video , subbed n liked and even rang your bell. Your welcome : )
Great video ... just saved me ...! One question: not being very practical with similar electrical work, I stopped at the first step of the video, where two pins are joined with a tip of molten tin (and therefore I have not changed the little black box) ... now I am using the steering wheel and it works great, but that you know can it be a problem for my safety or that of the steering wheel? Thank you
Hey I have also a dead t300 and I tried what you said and the triac looks good but when I try to connect 4 and 6 on the other it does nothing does that mean the whole chip is broken ?
if i make me an replacement cable, do i need only connect 1 live cable to bottom right, 1 neutral to bottom left, and then just do a bridge between top and bottom middle socket? or should the socket be fully connected from outside? (split 2 cables into 4 cables to socket, and then do also the bridge too?
Have you got any experience with tx italia edition will not calibrate on Xbox one just goes one side to the other and will never come to a stand still.
I replaced my power supply like other people had on here but now nothing is recoenized in windows. i get the calibration routine to work however. any ideas?
Please help! My T300 RSGT was running fine, then one day the steering feels choppy, stuttered. It moves in chunks so I have completely lost the feel of the road. I cannot find any info online about this problem, and no info on helping to diagnose the issue. If you have any input that would be greatly appreciated. Could it be a loose motor, or need a replacement motor? Thanks for your time.
Just had problems with my t300 rs, At first it wouldn't calibrate when first plugged in the USB cable so I decided to update the firmeware from v24 to v28 but naw when I plug the USB cable in the red light just flickers then goes out then nothing
Has anyone tried this to a TX 458 Wheel? I have that wheel and it worked on xbox one for couple years, now I bought PC and installed drivers etc. Couple times I managed to play, but now when you plug it PC says it doesnt recongize it and nohting else happens. When I hold xbox guide button down the mode light flickers and its doing the calibration in same pace as the light. when it has done the calibration both mode light and xbox button light flickers when holdin the button down. Starting to get hopeless....
Hi.. Thank you for Helping me. I have spotted a cracked component on the board, and I need some help identifying what it is exactly. It has MCC 43A marked on it. Is there anyone here who may be able to help with finding a replacement part
I tested using your same process, however I'm not getting 5V power from the USB on the 4-pin connector. Any thoughts on why this could be? I tried bypassing with an external power adapter wired into the 24V pins on the 4-pin connector, and I had no luck with that either.
I know this fix is couple of years old by now, but I'm suffering a different problem which is related to the power supply. After not having played for a while I reconnected the wheelbase to the power and usb and noticed a faint but distinctive smell from a capacitor. I opened everything up and could source it down to the power supply. It was still working but basically the force of the feedback was way less and didn't feel the same anymore. The capacitor on the other board of the power supply has not blown of visibly or bulged but I'm afraid it just dried down. Can it be, that it just needs to be replaced? Or do you maybe have a schematic to it? Already ordere a 2200 uF 50V cap rated for 105 degrees celsius and I hope it can fix it.
Hi I have no idea welding.. I prefer to replace the whole power supply. Can you tell me what exactly I have to buy? Once I have the new power supply, how can I install it?? My wheel is under warranty but thrustmaster spain dont reply any email. They are the worst, I do not know what to do... Thank you SO much.
Hi! I bought the t300 from US and used it with a converter and was working fine. Unfortunately my niece plugged it into the wrong socket and now its dead. Do you think this would work for my wheel base? and if it does can I just replace the powercord with a UK powercord and not use the converter?
Hello, I bought a brand new TX leather edition wheel and there is a serious problem with it. I play with three-four fingers(with one hand, no full grip) and regardless of the setting, from the recommended to almost maximum, the FFB is either absent or very faintly felt. When I tested the "forces" from the control panel, there are no vibrations, only the steering wheel turns with some of them. The store refused me a replacement, they sent it to a service center. The base does not overheating at all. What do you think the problem might be? Thanks!
I guess nearly every repair shop could do this kind of mod easily. The question is: Why? The cable is like 11€ (£10?) plus shipping… I would go for a 7/16 style connector if I really had to. The different connector type is just for allowing to ship a combined 120/240v transformer cheaply. The cable determines whether the 120V or the 240v connection of the transformer is used. So don’t use the Euro/UK cable in the US with just a simple travel adapter that works for modern phone chargers and what not.
If I just bypass it, if I solder out those to pins will the be sufficient can I then use the wheel without any issues or worries or do I have to replace the chip that you also replaced? I'm not very proficient electrician nor em I very confident with soldering iron hence why I'm asking
SADLY i tried this but im not getting the 5v usb power from the board, i verified the 5 volt is going into the board where the usb terminates into the board but thats it... any ideas?
I have a T300 RS and lately I'm facing a calibration problem. One day, the wheel started to provide a different FFB left/right. It got worse until it didn't completed the initial check at the start.I've bought this wheel in august of 2015 and I've used in the best possible way, covering when not using it, managing the temperature, not using at maximum FFB, preventing from clipping and always using the latest firmware.I've downloaded the calibration app 3.0, but after a 30 minute use it is possible to observe the calibration issue...I also got in contact with Thrustmaster, but I live in Brazil and they have no physical presence here. Their recommendation was to have the wheel replaced at the retailer I've purchased it from. But my retailer is in Germany.Can you assist me?
When using a multimeter for mine. I get about 2-3 volts for a brief second and then back to 0. This is with the power supply and usb plugged in. Do you have any ideas what the issue may be in this scenario? Could it possibly be that the usb is not working and therefore can’t get enough of a start to get the power supply to activate?
hello, I have problems with the thrustmaster tx ... the hal sensor support has split from the heat so it fails to calibrate correctly ... I have rebuilt the support but after 3 laps of the track the ffb of the weight of the car disappears but the others effects like the curbs he performs correctly ... I have removed the power supply and I have 2 outputs, 5v (usb) and is correct ... the other 31v ... the latter should not be 24v? Sorry my English
Salut j'ai un problème similaire avec mon t300rs (comme beaucoup de monde!) absence FFB et un calibrage catastrophique à la mise en route. Peux tu me donner les tensions de puissance de ton volant en cours de jeu? Ouvre le capot et prendre celle-ci sur le connecteur blanc avec les gros fils rouge et noir. Mes tensions sont les suivantes: 30v à vide (en ligne droite par exemple) et 18v en courbe. je me demande si cela est normal... tout devrait être stable à 24v, non?
My responds, it calibrates when I connect it, but the PS button won't work, it was fine before. I don't know what happened. I have only used it on my PS4, I have never connected it to a PC, maybe it is a software issue.
My tx wheel base has power, all lights on but i get usb device descriptor failure, I don't get any wheel movement or anything if anyone has any advice for that issue or has fixed a similar issue
I have a big Problem i bought a broken TX Wheelbase and i found the Broken part on it. Its this Plastic Part that sits right behind the Brushless Motor the black thing. I dont know that is called. But its broken any idea where you can get this? I know you can buy the motor. But i cant find this thing.
@@ericcline9146 3d printed ones are online and work.. and at the moment. thrustmaster hall effect and motor and mount. plug and play replacements for the t300 and tx systems. i got my t300 for 100$ . and bought a new motor hall sensor and mount. and then found out that it was the stupid power supply thing lol. but good thing i ordered it it was 40 bucks for a new motor sensor an mount.. and even if the power supply goes i have laptop power supplies i can hook up .mod it. and im wiring a t150 into arduino since my old t150 board fried itself. and everything else works fine in it. tested the parts buying a t150 and switching the board. and works great. so im hoping with the t150 thats arduino since i bought a better motor for it. maybe get a lil better than a t150. lol . then have a t300. 2 t150s and 1 red legend. which ill prolly turn into ffb wheel for the fuck of it.
So what are the 4 pins for 240v? I lost my cable and can't find one anywhere in Australia. I can make a replacement easy enough, but I just want to make sure I get the right pins connected. Cheers!
Hi there, could you find any solution to your issue? Got the same situation and although France is near Switzerland, Trustmaster does not deliver a EUR 10 cable to Switzerland...
It is diffrent crosing for 120v and 240v. The easiest way is to disassemble the steering wheel and connect a new cable. Cut out this strange and unusual socket.
A question please, i ve broken the trasformer by my fault, you now output voltage of the trasformer to buy a new unit? Seems to be 48 volt but i m not sure
Hi brilliant video. my wheel died last night. I opened it up as shown and spotted the blown and burnt pcb in the power supply box. I was wondering could I just solder the 2 black wires together as a temporary fix.
i know this is an old video, but is there any reason the motor would run more freely in one direction? just noticed my TX base during calibration moves slightly quicker to the left than the right, only just started happening but i think its probably the beginning of the end hahahaa. any ideas would be welcome ;)
@Federico Riggio ye man, i see what ya saying, i upgraded to a TS-XW bse earlier this year, thought about getting a fanatc DD base but still havnt pulled the trigger on one yet hahahaa see what TM bring to the table
Hello, Thank you very much for your video. I ordered the part to be changed and I received it in 1 month. Can I play using step 1 during this time? Does this risk damaging the steering wheel?
Thanks for posting this way back when! I replaced the IC today and it repaired my T300RS.
Amazing video.. had my t500rs do this year's ago so u bought t300..am finally try an fix it now.. you could make a fortune fixing these wheels with your knowledge and skill
You seem like a really smart guy! I can tell you payed attention in school my friend, thank you for the video!
Just want to say thanks for making this great video. My servo failed and had the same symptoms. After watching the video, I kind of rolled the dice and concluded mine had the same failure. I ordered the same triac you used but wasn't confident in my abilities.
I ended up finding a shop to take on the job once I showed them this video. The only thing I wish this included was how to remove the power supply, but it was 5 screws (1 hidden towards the top of the servo).
Great video and extremely informative/helpful!!!
Yeah I'm in the same situation. Mine is dead and I don't feel confident to do this so I'm looking around for someone/shop to do this.
Extremely well done tutorial and what a great find. Now if my $200 USD on a deal T300 flat dies I have an idea what to check first. To think a part that costs what .50 cents on the high side when not bought in bulk could possibly kill so expensive a piece of kit and it's not like it's an isolated issue and only with these wheels. All sorts of electronics die early deaths from very similar failures and if you have the knowledge/skill you can find some very good deals...
very clever. im just looking at troubleshooting thing for my wheel. mine still works. mine would squel when turning the wheel. be i set it up in a different room and it stoped. maybe a the old room is dry from sun heat.
but i like how you think. great video.
I would be Amazing if you could do other videos showing how to trace and diagnose different issues. For instance, how do you test that a hall effect sensor is working properly. How do you test that the motor is good, etc.
Thanks for this! When I opened one I had with the same symptoms, the opto had already been replaced, but the LED current-limit resistor was 10x what it should have been, so it wasn't even triggering! One resistor replaced and it works perfectly. Without this video it would've taken a LOT longer to diagnose.
Thanks a lot for your video, it helped me to repair my second t300rs with the same problem!
I had this same issue in a wheel that has been barely used, but is too old for warranty. Did the jumper wire trick while waiting for a new optoisolator to arrive.
"I ordered these for project 14 years ago and I'm about to use the 2nd one." hahah :) Thanks for the very well done tutorial!
You get a sub. I bought a tx off of Facebook marketplace and the little bastard didn’t have any way to test it but told me he was on it a few days ago. You might have just saved me good sir.
"Obrigado" my opto was still good, just overheathing ,i toke the bord out of the casing now it works nom stop.thank you
I think I got the same issue as you but I have already changed out the psu to a laptop one. Thanks for the information!
Nice video, super useful. My T300 had started doing the same thing, cracked it open and jumped the triac in the power supply. Happy days!
So , if i have same problem i don't have to change triac just jump it ? Right ?
@@Wolf1977pl Hello bro, I have the same problem. What did you do? You replaced it or just jumped? Thanks
Yep have the same problem did you bypass it or replaced it
Thanks in advance haha
@@moey3012Hey what did you end up doing?
It is a sheer pleasure to see another Electronics technician who clearly knows how to handle solder and technique.
I've just picked up my T300. Haven't yet opened it up. Whilst you were in there, did you take a good look at the power supply detail for the motor driver? Possible to replace the motor driver with a higher power rated (think monster moto) and drop in a much more powerful brushless motor?
Bahahahah, the sycophantic tone of your comment earned you no love in 5 years. Sorry for laughing in your face, but that's funny.
So would it be possible to just remove the circuit board all together and mount a switch and just use the 2 wires coming out of that circuit board and manually switch the wheel on with a switch?
Cheers.
Thank you for the video, really useful! And lucky you... :)
1. I bought a second-hand T300RS Ferrari GTE set, with a note that wheel turns on but do not calibrate.
2. When it arrived, in original box with the GTE wheel and pedals, I immediately updated the firmware with bootloader method on my PC. I managed to update and it auto-calibrated. I cleaned the units.
3. It worked like a charm for 200 km driving in GT Sport on PS4.
4. Then it died suddenly without any noise, right before I quit the game.
5. PC doesn't recognize it anymore, nor with bootloader method, regardless of PC3 or PC4 position. It's completely dead.
Because it has no warranty, I disassembled the wheelbase and I noted the followings:
- Wheelbase has never been disassembled before me, it was/is clean and tidy.
- No sign of burnt motor or motherboard or PSU elements.
- I tested PSU board's triacs but they seems to be OK. PSU with factory setup gives 30V and 5V to motherboard if its power cable & USB is plugged in (measured on thick and thin red-black cables right in motherboard socket), but doesn't powers up the wheelbase. No red light, no movement, nothing.
- I assume something is wrong with the motherboard.
Do you have any clue what could go wrong?
Lipazzz Hi, I’m considering to buy a second hand T300RS Ferrari GTE, did you manage to solve your problem?
This was awesome, thank you.
Mine has done this I'm guessing got to hot as was emitting a slight smell and was warm to the touch have tried changing the fuse but nothing no power light nothing thanks for the informative video
i 'd also try to find a way to leave the power adaptor outside of the wheel base. With a mod transfering the cables through a drilled hole on the side of the wheelbase right out of the wheel base, the power adapter should get better ventilation in the open air. The T500 and the new tw racer for pc, both have external ac adapters, i never undestood why thrustmaster put the adpater inside the t300, so here goes the overheat problems.
So, if my thrustmaster t300 ever stopped working, will it be something I can most likely fix myself?
Awesome repair
Thank you very much for the detailed video. It helped me a lot converting my t300 from 110V input to 220V without the need to get a new cable.
But after a while I began wondering how the is triac able to switch the wheel on and off when its supplied with 110V if it only opens one of the primary coils. Maybe I am missing something but I understand the second primary coil is always closed and therefore powered when the 110V cable is connected to the mains.
Hi, I am thinking of doing something like this. Do you mind sharing the details?
In essence it is a simple dual coil transformer as in the theory books. The difference is that the input coil is actually made of two coils.They can be connected in series and work as one coil with more wire turns or connected in parallel and work as one coil with half the wire turns.
The cable connector has access to the four terminals of those two input coils. Depending on the voltage rating of the cable it can connect two terminals to the power outlet phase wire and the other two to the neutral wire (two coils in parallel) or it can connect one terminal of one coil to the phase, one terminal of the other coil to the neutral and connect the remaining coil terminals to each other (two coils in series).
What I did was switch the behavior of my input coils by rewiring the terminal inside the wheel base, before they reach the connector.
For doing this kind of work I must say that one needs to know how a transformer works, use the proper tools to identify the right terminals to be changed and be very careful to make something that is first safe, then that won't kill your wheel and finally that is reliable enough.
I think I need to replace one of those things on the motherboard that has broken off, but when I search up the name "ACC 43A" theres so many different types that all look similar. How do I know which one is the right one?
You have made a very usefull video... and i had a hope (sorry for my bad english). Just a question to be sure. If when i connect power and usb base dont start and led too ... mean tha power supply is dead. Correct ? or problem is other ? thx in advance !!
Interesting video. Would be interesting to see the other side too but yeah, sounds pretty simple. Tempted to rip out that supply. I lost the cable. I ordered a new one for €18 from thrustmaster but it could take a week.
What will happen if i plugged in the wrong voltage cable ?
hey so this video is very informative but my main question is can I by pass the triac. I have the same problem as your t300.
tons of thanks fot your share
many thanks for sharing...
May i ask a question? First was that my son forgot and plugged in US version TMX Force Feedback wheel (110v power) to a wall outlet in Thailand (220v power). I took it to a small shop to recoil the transformer of the power supply of the wheel and also change it to accept 220v. However, when we plug the power supply back to the board of the wheel, we initially did in a wrong way (there are a 4-hole female socket attached to the board and a 2-hold male plug from the power supply, unlike yours), so there was a small spark.
Once we realized and turned it around. Everything seems ok including the self-calibration at startup after plugging USB to xbox. The buttons on the wheel are responding normally while in the home screen. Problems started when we start a game e.g. Forza Horizon, F1, etc. The startup is very slow. The background music became 0.5x speed. The car control is a few second lagging. Immediately when we unplugged the USB, the game is back to normal. Control with xbox controller is normal. It looks obvious that the problem caused by the wheel just repaired.
Any clues or assumptions you could think of that may cause this problem, it'd be very appreciated. Thank you in advance!
If the multimeter doesn’t read 5v when the usb is plugged in does that mean I need to replace the usb? I already bypassed the quick disconnect
Hi is there a part that can be ordered with a simple replacement without soldering ?
Would you happen to know what would be causing my fan to not kick in even with forced cooling activated? I've checked all the connections and everything is snug. The wheel works perfectly fine but without the fan after a hour or so or hard use my ffb begins to fade really bad
Is it possible that all T300rs's problems are coming from a bad power supply ? It is often said that the lose of FFB is caused by a motor overheat, but it could also be the power supply the problem, it overheats quickly (badly implemented), and provide less power to the motor than it should ? (and it could maybe explain the auto-calibration problem at start)
Hi,
I got a christmas emergency and need your help :D
Can you tell me which of the cable colors is connected to what? I didn't understand it completely in the video...here in Germany we got plus, minus and ground coming from the ac plug. Which color accords to which of these? Thanks in advance mate!
Ok that yellow things that are attached to the box thing on my wheel it looks like it's burnt do I just ditch that and wire in a pc charger?
Its possible to bypass using the same psu, but only join back wires together? I think the plate is just a relay, that fires up when you connect the USD cable. My T300 RS dies during the GTSport game.
could it be the same thing on a t150? my wheel started smoking and smelling of bad things. im waiting for thrustmaster to get back to me, but its taking forever and also it was gifted to me by a friend, and they got it off ebay, the seller already gave him back the money and said to just junk the wheel. could one of those be the smoking bit that is dead? i know its something on the power supply because the smoke comes from the left side and the underside in the area gets warm.
Fantastic video, thank you. I turned mine on today for the first time in months & it's completely dead. No smell no buzz no nothing. Pc won't recognise it either so looks like I've got to open her up. Any links to where I can buy the parts you replaced would be appreciated.
Tim Coles
try to change the powersupply. mine working fine 24v 3.2 a 60w. I've tested 19v it's start calibration but can't finish it, not enough power. there is a plenty on ebay
it's really easy to change it or test you need to conect only those two fat wires, the other 2 tiny ones no need
there is a link if you haven't got any at home, I'm sure you have laptop or soundbar I've tested with soundbar power supply it's 24v working good and laptops 19v, this one working but not enough power to play even for the calibration not enough
link
m.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-100-240V-12V-24V-2-3-5-6-8-10A-Power-Supply-Charger-for-LED-Light-Strip-/141938783919?var=&hash=item210c35f6af%3Am%3AmAMblGqV2dJHgSgBDVzE3IA&_trkparms=pageci%253Ae6b2f490-b14b-11e6-bba3-74dbd1a0908f%257Cparentrq%253A900568031580a357c0f7c7c6fff03be8%257Ciid%253A20&varId=441070400910
select the last one 24v
also you can find cheaper
Sigitas Ziurys thanks for the info, I'll have have a go.if you see a mushroom cloud over guildford, England it might be me ;)
Unfortunately my wheel has this pcb and power supply working (I do get 5v from USB and 24V from power supply), stil no light or any life at all. Any ideas? I think maybe the main logic board is damaged but I'm not sure
Hi, I am a quadriplegic with use of my arms but not fingers. I have ordered the wheel and will modify it with a knob so I can drive one handed. I'm going to modify the pedals so I can use my left hand for gas and brake. Do you have any ideas on how I might hijack the shift paddles so I could shift by hitting switches with the elbow of my gas/brake arm? How might you create a set of switches that do the work of the paddles? Thanks.
REPLY
Do you think this is anyway connected to the temperature sensor I removed the entire triac chipboard
Sir, can one upgrade the servo motor to something more powerful? If so what is the name of the model.
is it normal for this power supply to make constant audible noise even if I'm not playing?
Is there any way to put a protection inplace or better spec part, I.E Heatsink (if caused by heat instead of surge) fitting a manual switch, fuse, or remove the board completely and redirect the wires to a manual switch. This is becoming a common problem from what iam seeing. Fantastic video , subbed n liked and even rang your bell. Your welcome : )
Great video ... just saved me ...! One question: not being very practical with similar electrical work, I stopped at the first step of the video, where two pins are joined with a tip of molten tin (and therefore I have not changed the little black box) ... now I am using the steering wheel and it works great, but that you know can it be a problem for my safety or that of the steering wheel? Thank you
i am thinking about doing this for my thrustmaster tx as it has the same power supply. i am also wondering this
Did you figure it out?
Hey I have also a dead t300 and I tried what you said and the triac looks good but when I try to connect 4 and 6 on the other it does nothing does that mean the whole chip is broken ?
if i make me an replacement cable, do i need only connect 1 live cable to bottom right, 1 neutral to bottom left, and then just do a bridge between top and bottom middle socket? or should the socket be fully connected from outside? (split 2 cables into 4 cables to socket, and then do also the bridge too?
You saved my 300 bucks thx
Have you got any experience with tx italia edition will not calibrate on Xbox one just goes one side to the other and will never come to a stand still.
I replaced my power supply like other people had on here but now nothing is recoenized in windows. i get the calibration routine to work however. any ideas?
hi i want to connect the wheel directly via USB without the base t300, do you know how do it?
many thanks
Please help! My T300 RSGT was running fine, then one day the steering feels choppy, stuttered. It moves in chunks so I have completely lost the feel of the road. I cannot find any info online about this problem, and no info on helping to diagnose the issue. If you have any input that would be greatly appreciated. Could it be a loose motor, or need a replacement motor? Thanks for your time.
Just had problems with my t300 rs, At first it wouldn't calibrate when first plugged in the USB cable so I decided to update the firmeware from v24 to v28 but naw when I plug the USB cable in the red light just flickers then goes out then nothing
I have a button on the main PCB on T150. It is accessible only after removing the top cover. Anyone knows what it does?
Has anyone tried this to a TX 458 Wheel? I have that wheel and it worked on xbox one for couple years, now I bought PC and installed drivers etc. Couple times I managed to play, but now when you plug it PC says it doesnt recongize it and nohting else happens. When I hold xbox guide button down the mode light flickers and its doing the calibration in same pace as the light. when it has done the calibration both mode light and xbox button light flickers when holdin the button down. Starting to get hopeless....
Hi.. Thank you for Helping me.
I have spotted a cracked component on the board, and I need some help identifying what it is exactly. It has MCC 43A marked on it. Is there anyone here who may be able to help with finding a replacement part
I tested using your same process, however I'm not getting 5V power from the USB on the 4-pin connector. Any thoughts on why this could be? I tried bypassing with an external power adapter wired into the 24V pins on the 4-pin connector, and I had no luck with that either.
same problem ..how to fix?
I know this fix is couple of years old by now, but I'm suffering a different problem which is related to the power supply. After not having played for a while I reconnected the wheelbase to the power and usb and noticed a faint but distinctive smell from a capacitor. I opened everything up and could source it down to the power supply. It was still working but basically the force of the feedback was way less and didn't feel the same anymore. The capacitor on the other board of the power supply has not blown of visibly or bulged but I'm afraid it just dried down. Can it be, that it just needs to be replaced? Or do you maybe have a schematic to it? Already ordere a 2200 uF 50V cap rated for 105 degrees celsius and I hope it can fix it.
Nevermind, just realised it’s just a simple full bridge rectifier board in the power supply.
Hi I have no idea welding.. I prefer to replace the whole power supply. Can you tell me what exactly I have to buy? Once I have the new power supply, how can I install it?? My wheel is under warranty but thrustmaster spain dont reply any email. They are the worst, I do not know what to do... Thank you SO much.
Hi! I bought the t300 from US and used it with a converter and was working fine. Unfortunately my niece plugged it into the wrong socket and now its dead. Do you think this would work for my wheel base? and if it does can I just replace the powercord with a UK powercord and not use the converter?
Hello, I bought a brand new TX leather edition wheel and there is a serious problem with it. I play with three-four fingers(with one hand, no full grip) and regardless of the setting, from the recommended to almost maximum, the FFB is either absent or very faintly felt. When I tested the "forces" from the control panel, there are no vibrations, only the steering wheel turns with some of them. The store refused me a replacement, they sent it to a service center. The base does not overheating at all. What do you think the problem might be? Thanks!
Very nice video. I would like to ask if there is any possibility to change the power socket to a standard (3 pin) one or directly solder the cables?
If you ask, you are not the right person to do this kind of thing. :) But if you find someone, there is no technical reason it wouldn’t work. :)
@@marcianzero_yt I saw a company on ebay offering this service in the UK for £45
I guess nearly every repair shop could do this kind of mod easily. The question is: Why? The cable is like 11€ (£10?) plus shipping…
I would go for a 7/16 style connector if I really had to. The different connector type is just for allowing to ship a combined 120/240v transformer cheaply. The cable determines whether the 120V or the 240v connection of the transformer is used. So don’t use the Euro/UK cable in the US with just a simple travel adapter that works for modern phone chargers and what not.
I have a problem with my t150, auto calibration during startup. The steering wheel repeats and cannot finish the process.
Same problem in my wheel.what can I do?
this looks easy enough. i'm thinking about buying a broken one on ebay and fix it for the fraction of the price of a functioning wheel.
Can I not solder that and leave it? Just unplug and plug to get power?
If I just bypass it, if I solder out those to pins will the be sufficient can I then use the wheel without any issues or worries or do I have to replace the chip that you also replaced? I'm not very proficient electrician nor em I very confident with soldering iron hence why I'm asking
hey - did you ever try doing this? I'm in the same boat here. Looked like the bypass was a sufficient fix.
SADLY i tried this but im not getting the 5v usb power from the board, i verified the 5 volt is going into the board where the usb terminates into the board but thats it... any ideas?
Did you get that problem fix cause I'm getting .5V when plug in to USB, If you did, can you help me?
I have a T300 RS and lately I'm facing a calibration problem. One day, the wheel started to provide a different FFB left/right. It got worse until it didn't completed the initial check at the start.I've bought this wheel in august of 2015 and I've used in the best possible way, covering when not using it, managing the temperature, not using at maximum FFB, preventing from clipping and always using the latest firmware.I've downloaded the calibration app 3.0, but after a 30 minute use it is possible to observe the calibration issue...I also got in contact with Thrustmaster, but I live in Brazil and they have no physical presence here. Their recommendation was to have the wheel replaced at the retailer I've purchased it from. But my retailer is in Germany.Can you assist me?
Carlos Henrique Alencar Hey, I've got the same problem as you... Auto calibration never end. Did you repaired it?
When using a multimeter for mine. I get about 2-3 volts for a brief second and then back to 0. This is with the power supply and usb plugged in. Do you have any ideas what the issue may be in this scenario?
Could it possibly be that the usb is not working and therefore can’t get enough of a start to get the power supply to activate?
Legend!!!
Is there a rating mentioned on the power supply?
hello, I have problems with the thrustmaster tx ... the hal sensor support has split from the heat so it fails to calibrate correctly ... I have rebuilt the support but after 3 laps of the track the ffb of the weight of the car disappears but the others effects like the curbs he performs correctly ... I have removed the power supply and I have 2 outputs, 5v (usb) and is correct ... the other 31v ... the latter should not be 24v? Sorry my English
Salut j'ai un problème similaire avec mon t300rs (comme beaucoup de monde!) absence FFB et un calibrage catastrophique à la mise en route. Peux tu me donner les tensions de puissance de ton volant en cours de jeu? Ouvre le capot et prendre celle-ci sur le connecteur blanc avec les gros fils rouge et noir.
Mes tensions sont les suivantes: 30v à vide (en ligne droite par exemple) et 18v en courbe.
je me demande si cela est normal... tout devrait être stable à 24v, non?
My responds, it calibrates when I connect it, but the PS button won't work, it was fine before. I don't know what happened. I have only used it on my PS4, I have never connected it to a PC, maybe it is a software issue.
Hi. My T150's transformer makes sm bazzing sound when I touch the wheel. Do I replace it?
Where can i find an opto do you have a link i cant find it anywhere
Thanks
Hi my power supply after 1 and a half years is dead and i can't find a power supply any thoughts?
I have a fan that won't shut off after I power down my rig on the computer. But does shut down on the PS4, the fan just runs and runs.
Hey can i send my thrustmaster t300rs servo to u to get fixed please. I even have a thrustmaster tx servo for parts i can send with it.
Is possible to buy extension cable and just run the wheel with power suply outside od wheel ?
There is this: czcams.com/video/vZ-EL9k8Jgc/video.html
Hi there Is there any way you could help me fixing my wheel if you have some spare time I live in Reading . I think there is a problem with USB
My tx wheel base has power, all lights on but i get usb device descriptor failure, I don't get any wheel movement or anything if anyone has any advice for that issue or has fixed a similar issue
I have a big Problem i bought a broken TX Wheelbase and i found the Broken part on it. Its this Plastic Part that sits right behind the Brushless Motor the black thing. I dont know that is called. But its broken any idea where you can get this? I know you can buy the motor. But i cant find this thing.
Its the hall effect mount..couldnt find one myself
@@ericcline9146 3d printed ones are online and work.. and at the moment. thrustmaster hall effect and motor and mount. plug and play replacements for the t300 and tx systems. i got my t300 for 100$ . and bought a new motor hall sensor and mount. and then found out that it was the stupid power supply thing lol. but good thing i ordered it it was 40 bucks for a new motor sensor an mount.. and even if the power supply goes i have laptop power supplies i can hook up .mod it. and im wiring a t150 into arduino since my old t150 board fried itself. and everything else works fine in it. tested the parts buying a t150 and switching the board. and works great. so im hoping with the t150 thats arduino since i bought a better motor for it. maybe get a lil better than a t150. lol . then have a t300. 2 t150s and 1 red legend. which ill prolly turn into ffb wheel for the fuck of it.
hi man , i have TS-PC racer and disconnects after ~20 minutes ,
no heat, updated everything,
is it a power supply ?
thanks.
So what are the 4 pins for 240v? I lost my cable and can't find one anywhere in Australia. I can make a replacement easy enough, but I just want to make sure I get the right pins connected. Cheers!
Hi there, could you find any solution to your issue? Got the same situation and although France is near Switzerland, Trustmaster does not deliver a EUR 10 cable to Switzerland...
It is diffrent crosing for 120v and 240v. The easiest way is to disassemble the steering wheel and connect a new cable. Cut out this strange and unusual socket.
For 240v, author shows power comes in on the pins farthest apart from each other.
very good
What will happen if i plugged in the wrong voltage cable ?
ciao,scusa ma quale tensione esce dallo spinotto bianco ? sono 2 positivi e due negativi 24volt + 24 volt?
A question please, i ve broken the trasformer by my fault, you now output voltage of the trasformer to buy a new unit? Seems to be 48 volt but i m not sure
Would really like an answer to this question please! anybody and can it run on lower : ) thanks
I can answer now, i've use a laptop universal adapter with 22volt output and 125watt, and it go perfectly
@@DantedaemonslayerNice one, glad you got it sorted, did you fit it intrnaly or externaly
Externaly, with a 5v relay that goes on when usb is connected or when xbox power is no, so i dont need to disconnect power supply from transformer
Hi brilliant video. my wheel died last night. I opened it up as shown and spotted the blown and burnt pcb in the power supply box. I was wondering could I just solder the 2 black wires together as a temporary fix.
megan Wilcox can you please send me a picture of the 2 black cords
Hi i no its been a while but do you repair the thrustmaster t300 i have two that have a similar fault can you help laurie scotland
i know this is an old video, but is there any reason the motor would run more freely in one direction? just noticed my TX base during calibration moves slightly quicker to the left than the right, only just started happening but i think its probably the beginning of the end hahahaa. any ideas would be welcome ;)
@Federico Riggio the motor was faulty on mine mate, had to have full strip down and repair of the rotor assembly
@Federico Riggio ye man, i see what ya saying, i upgraded to a TS-XW bse earlier this year, thought about getting a fanatc DD base but still havnt pulled the trigger on one yet hahahaa see what TM bring to the table
Hello, Thank you very much for your video. I ordered the part to be changed and I received it in 1 month. Can I play using step 1 during this time? Does this risk damaging the steering wheel?
Did you find any answer?
No. I have played 2 or 3 times and everything is fine. I received the part, I need to change it.
Superb
Nice!
Is it work also to t150?
If your triac keeps blowing what would the likely culprit be?
Heat is usualy the problems for electronics and quality control in both thrustmaster sucks their wheels are not reliable at all.
M8 mine has just lost power, its never let me down up until now 😞 do ya fancy fixing it for me as i haven't got a clue and will probably break it 😂
PART TO BUY : www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/on-semiconductor/FOD4216/FOD4216-ND/1830676