Installing Flexible Duct - Insulated Duct - DIY
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- čas přidán 23. 10. 2011
- Installing Flexible or Insulated Duct is an easy DIY project. I'll show you how to get the job done right. In this video, I use mastic and air duct sealant to reattach a flexible branch duct to my furnace's main insulated duct.
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There are a bunch of people like me who never comment but use the heck out of videos like this. Seriously thanks for taking the time.
A+ on the demo, that 'can do' attitude is contagious. Thanks.
thank you very much for this video. i have an existing vent in my kitchen to the house i am renting and noticed that there was no air coming out of it when the central air was on, so i went underneath the house and it turns out that there is no flex duct connected so i called a company called Air King here in Los Angeles California and they wanted to charge me $590.00 to do what you just did in this video. anyways thank you for sharing your knowledge with me. greatly appreciate it.
Thank you. One room in my house is always hot or cold. I know my duct work is 30 years old. I am going to try this. I appreciate your video!
Awesome video! Thanks man! For the past 2 years, My AC has only been blowing strong in the master bedroom, and leave over half of the house hot. This might just be the solution.
I was close to getting the duct tape out for this new duct for mobile home. So glad I watched. Mastic, and zip ties..just saved me some money very likely
Thanks Corey, exactly what I needed to know this afternoon.
We are really enjoying the cooler weather in north ms.
Wife just mentioned tonight at supper that we're really saving on utilities the past few days.But I will ck all of our duct work connections tomorrow.
Thanks Corey
Thank You! Gonna redo and upgrade my ducts tomorrow. Have some air leakage and old duct are r4.2 (got r6) Glad I watched this before.
There seems to be dozens of experienced HVAC guys out there that all do this all a slightly different way and claim there way is right (and everyone else is an idiot). For these connections, I go all out because I am a DIY’er and I don’t need to be super fast and added cost is nothing. I place mastic over collar, slide core over, double zip tie core with tool, mastic all over end of core and the zip ties, let it fully cure, wrap a layer of foil tape over the core where the metal collar ends (covering the sharp edge of metal collar to reinforce the core from the collar edge wearing through or tearing core due to vibration or tension on duct), then add a second cost of mastic to the end of the core and zip ties, let it all fully cure, then pull insulation over and double zip tie insulation. It will still be there a million years from now.
Thought I would check back and let you know my project went flawless. My girlfriend has 9 vents blowing air instead of 4. This is nice since it will be in the low 20's tomorrow. Thanks Again
Great video. 2 suggestions, if I may: Tuck the end of the outer plastic liner in between the insulation and flex and pull back while simutaneously pulling the inner flex gently in the opposite direction. It will prevent those fiberglass splinters. Once the inner flex is exposed, apply mastic and immediatedly slide the flex on. That way it acts like a lubricant. You caulked in between, which is TOTALLY fine; but someone not experienced would move slower, and mastic gets gummy QUICK and its hard to slide on. (It does take a while to properly dry - but not long to get sticky.) Good job on using the proper materials. I SMH when I see these videos from the tape manufacturer with people just taping the everloving crap out of it. :(
Sounds easy til you have a 4/12 roof, which is also a portal to hell in Florida.
@MrPiratefish Great tip and it makes sense. I wish every HVAC installer was as professional as you.
Well done! Crystal clear. Thank you.
Excellent information. I have some work to do in the attic once it cools down a bit.
thanks corey
in your video you said $1000 per month heating and electric. My highest ever is $450. Couple years ago I insulated the heating ducts. The leaks contributed as well as the heating ducts were uninsulated. Back to saving money on my end.
thank you for this.
@MrPiratefish Thanks for the add. I am going to follow both your's and "HowToHomeInsulation" tips and go back and do my DIY repairs right. Thanks guys.
Corey nice job!. Been an HVAC sheet metal mechanic for over 30 years and what you've shown is seldom done.The majority of the HVAC contractors won't spend the time to do it this way. You did it the right way! The only thing I would do differently is apply the duct sealer over the inside liner after it is slid over take off to avoid gooping up fingers. I couldn't tell what R value the flex was but in an unconditioned space it should be an R-8 value, R-4 in unconditioned.Great Job overall brother
r8 in unconditioned and r4 in unconditioned what the diff was this typo
@@Kains_whoredr8 in unconditioned and r4 in conditioned space they meant
@@cactusfacemcgillicuddy ahh I figured,thank you ♡
Oh good I didn’t know if I fucked up by not putting the black part of the flex in all the way, living the trade great video
You could also apply good foil tape to seal the outer plastic layer to the insulation on the supply trunk line, and then cover the tape with lots of mastic.
Thank you so much for your video. I recently bought a house. It has NO insulation at all and its in miami!. Ducting seems to be old. They added a new rom at the back of the house and the did a ducting for it, but they took the duct from half the way back from the HVAC, and its fixed with ducktape. I was looking for info on how to put like an Y connector on the vent of the kitchen to take the duct for the new room from there. The kitchen vent its the big ones. and the other is small. kitchen vent its lamost closed since if not i have almost not air on the last vent anyway.
The grey duct you were working with is an R-4 R value, it was made in the 1980's and is inferior to more modern R-6 or R-8 insulated duct. That grey duct falls apart if uv light from a roof vent (or other source) hits it, the duct liner did not have uv hardener in it an I've replaced miles of it. Another tip is to tuck the outer liner back under the insulation concealing the insulation, should be no insulation showing and "tuck" should rest up agaist the plenum and also be sealed with mastic.
I just replaced mine my 1984 house total piece of 💩 The plastic was falling apart
@@pearlperlitavenegas2023my lord, yes it is total crap the outer plastic has completely fallen apart on top of my ducts and the condensation is pooling at the bottom
Thanks Cory, Bet that won't fall off!!!
Good video! Thanks.
Great videos! Thanks for sharing! Question, needing some advice - I have uninsulated air flexible connector ducts for an AC/Heat application a company installed going about 15 ' to a return and want to insulate them after they were installed. They are uninsulated. What is the best product or way to go about that - that you recommend? They have no insulation and I can tell they are losing hot air. Thanks!
Hi Corey . Great video. I am about to remodel my basement and one piece of flexible duct work is droupped under floor joist. Their is room to squeeze the flexible duct through but it is tight, we are talking 1ft span of squeeze. Can I reduce it from 6" to 4" and back to 6" through the 1ft difficult area without and harm the the system effectiveness.
Thanks you
Jersey star now PA star
Another great video.. Thanks man ; )
Is there a difference between that air duct sealant/ mastic and a tube of good quality silicone?
We have a 50 year old house with an attic AC air handler--for 2 attics. The lower attic had an extremely difficult human access point, so I cut one in the ceiling of a tiny kitchen pantry closet. Came to find the original installer of the HVAC vents there (metal ones) apparently ran short of metal stock tubing. He decided to substitute a fiberglass insulating tube. He attached it from the main trunk as an airway duct to the DR ceiling opening. It had a silver dollar sized hole in its side (for location of protruding levers from a metal tube) and the air was just pouring out there!!!! It was this way for over 40 years I guess. I used HVAC tape on the hole. I should replace this mess as I wonder what other mess this builder could have done. I'm sure most builders pull these stunts as their "mistakes" are likely never to be learned or found out--or they think. I have seen it before in other places.
Appreciate this video I found a ferrel cat living under my house and it ripped the duct. The estimate cost to have it done professionally is well over $5,000.00 . I'm going to try to do this myself.
Corey, How do you update and change old ductwork if there is some taped together like a y shape to go to different vents? I think my system is all jacked up in the ductwork. I don't know what that person way back whenever was thinking.....I don't know, maybe it is right.
Hi mate
can you tell me why my heating duct outlet
below the house
is connected to a small ball size device in between the ducts is making a ticking sound lately never stops ticking
please advise the problem?
thanks
My gray plastic around air duct is tear in my attic. What kind of tape should I use to tape it back neatly and efficiently?
Almost right until the last step. That galvanized flange should have been pulled out of the manifold box to begin. Attach the inner duct as Cory showed, then take the outer sleeve and pull it over the flange tabs. Now insert the flange into the manifold, and flare out all those tabs, with the sleeve getting pinned inside the manifold by the tabs. This makes a nice tight seal against the fiberglass hole of the manifold.
How can he access the tabs to flare them in your scenario?
You rock! Thanks.
Thanks for your help. I noticed most guys use tape but when I checked GA code it says your way is the right way.
@gregory747 I watched your video on insulating your ductwork. Great Job! Especially for such tough working conditions. That was a tough job.
Sealing the ducts is definitely critical. I have 2 heating systems and both were terrible. I can't believe the heating contractors don't seal the ducts or even seem to care. I'm saving a ton of money since I've insulated and air sealed my house and duct work. Our bills were down to $350 last year and I'm so glad I did it.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks mate
Is this the same procedure for 4" insulated duct venting to outside with a wall vent? Also can you use metal hose clamps instead of zip ties?
Hi guys your videos are cool
Ugg You covered up the balancing damper..... stuff like that just drives us air balancers crazy!!!
can you please elaborate?
So what....
I always poke the damper handle out and put flag Material on them makes it easy for the balancer or just they next guy
Good Job
Save me a lot of money Thank you.
I have a 6 in duct, can’t find any in stock near me - would going up to 7 in make a huge difference?
you don't need the mastic the duct tie and tensioner will do just fine. the inner liner on the flex duct only has so much life in it and when it lets go and tears you will wish you hadn't use the mastic. mastic or duct butter is for patching seems on metal duct.
Good video
Very helpful Corey. Oh God I hope I learned enough. I have no choice but for myself and my daughter to go under my home and replace the flex duct. It's a 1953 travel trailer w/ 3 room additions. If I don't replace the unit itself, is that going to blow the mold through the new duct? It's bad and I have COPD and this is just not a good situation. I'm not lazy... :) just poor. You're very informative.
I live in a mobile home and the air conditioning is under the trailer. How do I go about having it come out of the ceiling? The animals find away to mess up things.
so you dont leave the handle to the damper exposed for adjustment but cover it and then ziptie over it? that seems odd.
Thank you for showing this DIY. I noticed sparingly one to three small, dark brown, toasted pieces on the carpet when new heat unit is on. I have noticed it only in one room. This video shows that the innerlining is made of some plastic form. So why am i getting something that looks like burned, ashy material and that breaks apart easily. Isn't plastic supposed to scorch and not break in two (paper ash does that). Even if mice were biting or climbing on it, you would see larger, unattached pieces with some mice-tracing on it. I was told by someone that the ductwork innerlining is tearing down and needs to be replaced? Is that advice true, based on my findings.
Sounds like you have an opening in your ductwork and mold growth, which dries out, becomes flaky, then flies out into the room. You should have that checked out
Apply baby powder to arms, neck and hands and the fiberglass will not stick to you.
? does this really work?!?!?
Yea go in the attic looking like Casper
Damn, thank you Sir!
some of always look like casper
praying this true I'm so excited
Word is that flex ducting is usually poorly installed and less efficient. What is your take on that?
Great video - I need to go up in my attic and check out all the connections. Now I just need to figure out how to deal with working in a roasting attic!
Hey Jim, Thanks for watching and commenting! Sometimes it's tough to figure out what to include in the videos because not everyone has dampers, etc.
All I did was cut a hole through the vapor barrier and the fiberglass layer. That way I can see the damper and adjust it if necessary.
Take it easy,
Corey
Hey Corey,
Great simple video - I had just installed some flexible duct incorrectly! Now I can go back and fix it correctly.
I enjoy your website - keep it up!
Just a note on this video - you may want to mention something about the damper lever you are covering up and how to properly maintain exposure/access without ruining the insulating seal.
Thanks again for your work!
Jim
So recently I went under my house.. All the ducts are secured by what appears to be "Nitto Joining/Sealing Tape".. the system was installed over 20 years ago & the sealant tape is fricken hard to get off as I had to replace some old ducts that were damaged due to rats... I do like the cable tie idea though.. That I will definitely do on top of the sealant tape next time I have to do any duct work.
thanks alot brother
iv been in my home 3ys and the matinal used on my attic havoc is failing. Like coming off the joint in selections will I have e any success putting metal tape and a compound. this brand does not apply with brush its more of a need with manipulation then apply with pressings in crack and the i would tape. I your able to answer it would be awesome.
also using a acetone for cleaning surface but not able to remove all traces
Nice but we usually pull the insulation and cover the like line of the zip tie then strangle it tight with hvac duct tape then insulate the rest from a roll of insulation
@1betrman I'm loving the weather here in the Northeast, too. I wish it could be like this all year long.
Look for smaller leaks around your main HVAC trunk and branch ducts. They are always leaky.
With heating oil near $4/gallon, and the economy in the toilet. I need to make sure every dollar I spend on heat makes it into my house.
Thanks for watching,
Corey
One problem I see is the last zip tie: it compresses the insulation. You also need to mastic the area where the sleeve touches the box.
what is the name of the tighten up clamp? where to buy it? many many thanks!!!!
panduit gun
nah thats old school all you need is some flex tape and a well secured ziptie
What city are you in that would cost $1000/month for heating? Must be really cold!
I keep reading conflicting opinions about whether that last zip tie that was added should be as tight as possible which compresses the insulation down.
I can’t tell in the video but did you tighten it as tight as the first one or just enough to hold it in place?
Next time cut a hole in your flex duct liner to expose the damper handle.. just a helpful tip for future access and balancing.
Still gona leak through side aluminium tape on all sides makes tight seal ..
Lifesaver!! I used duct tape on mine...fell off..house hot...what???!!!
He did not close his vapor barrier!
Where do you get the extra long cable ties?
Andybaby any hvac supply store has them
Thanks Bryan, and yes, that's where I (finally) found them, a few weeks ago.
Mastic to attach the flex? Never heard of such a thing. I work residential and commercial HVAC. This baffles me
Its code in some places... I've personally seen inspectors cut the zip tie to see if tape and mud were used correctly
Dude, you put the flex duct right over the manual damper handle. How can anybody adjust the airflow now? *rolls eyes*
If it was set right it should never be moved. Unfortunately, I think with how the duct was previously installed... that would be way too much credit.
Y not use ZIP TIES ALSO WORK GREAT
That’s the old school way before pull-ties and poookey
Why not pookie the inside of the duct?
One major issue mastic (also called pookie) will not out metal or flex duct if it does not have up to 24 hours to cure. In other words pushing flex over wet mastic is a guaranteed problem in the future. Mastic manufacturers will tell you the same. Pull ties and UL listed duct tape is the best solution. Also, no UL listed duct does not break down within 5 years. I have had to change over 5 different units duct work because of wet mastic. Quick fix, but bad solution. Also if you do not have 2" of insulation overlap add a piece of duct wrap.
On 2 line rot instead of not*
I think that flexible plastic duct is not allowed by building codes, it's for bathroom fan.
Paying triple for heat is so much better
oooooooooooops forgot to open the heat flap or whatever they call it
Its called tie tons 2 tie tons
Foil tape...wont pull away.
But ummm..a zip tie tensioner? Really?
1000$ Dam dude we dont like going over 100$ LOL
Bare hands on fiberglass? Oh yeah.
if you put in rigid metal ducts, you'd never have that problem .
you cover up the damper handle
It's called a Panduit and a Panduit gun. Not a zip tie and a tensioning tool. And that looks like crap with insulation hanging out you roll it into what they call a donut Titan the Panduit until it's snug shove it on the collar to the trunk line and then torque it down with the Panduit gun. If a inspector seen that it would definitely fail
So do I get R8? R4? I don't know what R means. Don't be laughing guys, cause believe me...I'm not. :/
not 100 percent correct.
you insulated over the damper pookie on the take off does seal great harder then shit to get off you could cut a little hole in the jacket so the damper is accessible for air balancing and tape around the hole so the insulation doesn't fray besides that good job.
yuck no mastic pookie!!!! use Venture tape which is the correct product. installed for years and we use the tape with zip ties and never had an issue, if we go to a house to do an upgrade and we see what you did we charge them double to rip it out and start over because you can un tape but you can't un pookie!!!