WHY IT BROKE! 4.8L LS LIFTER FIX!
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- LS LIFTER PROBLEMS? What caused the failure? Junkyard Turbo LS-We Got Lucky! Our 4.8L turbo test mule was headed for trouble. While replacing the worn-out lifter trays, we noticed damaged cam lobes and lifters. This happened once before, with the Compound Turbo test. What was causing the damage to the cam and lifters and how could we fix it?
Makes me happy that I replaced the lifter trays when I cam swapped my junkyard 5.3l
yup
They are only $9 dollars at napa so why not.
I like watching someone that knows so much about GM motors tear into them, even as basic as it seems to you or I, there's someone out there who's having similar problems , but may seem like relocating continents to them. Until they watch Rich make it look as simple as taking the next breath of air. Good job man, keep em coming n I'll love to keep watching em
Yes, great video. I'm gonna do a cam swap. I think I will be removing my intake and doing a proper inspection. Good luck on your projects!
I am just finishing my LS 6.0 turbo build and was ready to put my motor in next week. I am ordering new lifter trays before I button this thing up. Thank you for the heads up!!!!
Before this video, I was gonna do a cam swap without lifter inspection. I'm with you, a little more work and a few bucks will give me piece of mind on my valvetrain
I think that was a good find and most likely the contributing factor to high mileage failures like that.
Always good to find the cause of a failure. Good lesson for all of us...thanks
Sloppy stage 2 versus the world cam test! Can't wait
That should be good
That would be good!!
How about Sloppy Stage 2 vs. Howards ASA cam? I'm interested in seeing long duration low lift cams.
What's so good about the stage 2 vs any other aftermarket can
@@infamousnova in my opinion? Nothing. Some people think it's the best thing ever and it's not. It's going to do reasonably well.
infamousnova what makes it good is how many times Matt has shown it work well in a wide variety of setups. Sure others are great too, but Matt’s shown it work for yrs when there wasn’t that much other in your face info on cams out there.
Yup, definitely what caused the wear in the cam and lifter, switching to bar linked lifters would solve the issue compared to plastic litter trays that wear out and can bend with all the heat cycles
man this is such a great channel.
Hi Richard. I’ve just got to say, I absolutely love what your doing on this channel. I’ve been absorbing as much LS knowledge as I possibly can lately. I’m building a twin turbo 6.0 engine for my AWD LS swapped 1963 falcon build. I feel like you have been guiding me along the way! Just wanted to give you a big shoutout!! Great stuff my friend!
happy to help and make the let me know how it turns out
@richardholdener1727 is it possible to run tie bar style lifters in an lm7?
And that's cheap insurance! Thanks again for solid tech Richard!
Soooo glad you did this video and pointed that out! This will help save countless motors!
As cheap as these trays are, anytime I have the heads off, I swap them out.
Great find Richard!!
As always a plethora of useful knowledge! Richard it's a pleasure watching you in your element
Your instructions here are PRICELESS!!!
What I love about your video is HOW you assembled the motor with finesse and explained WHY certain parts fail. These exciting motors will be much more appreciated content for step by step DIY engine builds and take out the fear of the unknown. Do a LS7 build next ! Thanks 🔧😼🔧
I just had this exact same failure. Thankfully I was already building a fresh motor. I'll be rebuilding the motor in it. I'll definitely be examining the lifter trays.
That is exactly what is happening. I have had the same issue in the past. The lifter is turning inside the lifter tray. The tray is getting old and when it gets hot it gets soft and allows the lifter to turn off center on the lobe. My opinion is a link bar lifter would be the best choice to avoid this in a high performance engine.
Richard, I have a 2003 half ton silverado I bought new, 4x4 ext cab with the venerable LR4. Back in 2015 I put a trick turbo log style turbo kit on with a 74/76 precision turbo, 39mm precision gate and a 50mm blow off valve. The engine is bone stock other than fueling and a tune by a local hot rod shop. The engine had 109k miles on it when I did the build, it currently has 158k. I never gapped the rings, any head studs or head gaskets. Everything is original, except recently I finally replaced the intake gaskets. Now mind you I only run 10lbs on waste gate spring, but it has been a blast and I tow a small camper with it occasionally.
Great videos by the way!
Very good point, the rotation cannot be good for either lifter nor cam. Great find👍
I sure do like an LR4--small but mighty. Thanks for the informative vid--this feels like something that doesn't get talked about enough, and it's a pretty simple fix. If I ever have the heads off of mine I'll be sure to replace the trays!
Once again, thanks Richard.
I've seen alot of 6.0 have broken trays and or sloppy trays...good idea first time tearing motor down to replace the trays or at least check them.......thanks for all you do
Ha I had a theory that this is why the lifters fail... not the lifter itself but trays. I made SURE to delete the lifter trays on my build and went with linkbar lifters. Great video... great to see you confirmed my theory. I think ls lifters are a good design but didnt like the plastic trays.
the stock trays work very well-just not after 300K miles and not when you try to run cheap (non GM) trays
@@richardholdener1727that is a good endorsement of them! 300k miles wow. I just felt weird with a plastic guide for the lifter. Some people told me lifter failure is somewhat common on the Gen III stuff. Not sure if that's rumor, but I felt if it is, I'd suspect the tray before the lifter without any further knowledge. Love your videos BTW I built a LQ9 up with cam from Roger Vinci custom ground me a cam. I put Yella Terra Ultra Light Rockers, bigger injectors (from flex fuel L59?), LSR 2116 Johnson Lifters (Overkill haha), and as a result Manton cut me pushrods to fit. Fun time though, watched a lot of your videos during the process. Been tweaking the tune for a couple years now. Have AFR Heads on my wish list, not sure if I'll ever get em. Rest is all stock LQ9.
I am really happy you're making me videos. Now I know what I have to replace to prevent catastrophic failure.
My old machine shop guy always said plastic is for radio knobs. I'm glad I put new lifter trays in my 408 build.
100% because of rotation. I've disassembled 2 of 5.3 LM7 with same worn out lifter trays and guess what - both cams were actually destroyed the same way. So yeah, lifters and lifter trays change should be done on those junkyard engines almost every time. They're cheap so no big deal. Thanks for the video!
Excellent video! I had an issue with my turbo gen 3.5 6.0 that was very similar the cam was marked and lifters looked the same and I didn't think about the lifter trays luckily someone threw them away and I replaced them! Keep up the great content
You should upgrade the lifters to link bar lifters and rocker bronze bushing upgrade to get rid of the needle barrings. Great video thx subscribed
welcome
Got a 4.8 liter in my 2000 GMC Sierra. I’ve had it over 20 years, best engine I’ve ever had! 180k trouble free miles. Would like to see a pro charger added to test engine.
Without seeing the lifter bores and checking them for wear, I'd agree with Your failure diagnosis Richard.
Yeah, worn lifter trays. Exactly why I always had them replaced when doing a cam. Also one reason I don't agree with a cam only swap especially on a high mileage engine. I always replaced ALL the lifters and did new lifter trays. I know it's more work pulling the heads but its piece of mind. Also, if the cam has a high ramp rate the oil you use is important. Joe Gibbs LS30 oil is great for LS engines with aggressive cam swaps.
Id replace the pump with a high volume unit for hi mi and a hvhp unit for hi perf apps. Pickup tube o ring is a must.
A real man who knows how to torque.
Two uggs duggas and send it
SSbigblock454
All torque and plenty of action..👍🏻
How about some turbo inlet testing to show effects of inlet changes. No filter, and different size inlets and filters. Keep up the great tests!
The SBC has SKU 12550002, Dog bone lifter guides. That's the one thing I always liked about Gen 1 Small blocks over the LS. A SBC with good aftermarket heads like STS T1 227's is probably a very formidable engine with the right intake manifold. SBC's often run tie-bar lifters because high lift cams with a reduced base circle will interfere with the geometry between the lifter and the guide. But the tie bar adds to valvetrain mass.
--The LSX and RHS blocks have holes in the "valley" so you can inspect the lifters without pulling the heads. You also use PN# 19166182 instead of lifter trays, because the additional head bolts get in the way of the lifter tray. A big lifter bore, with square lifters surface ground dead nuts flat, can have injection molded lifter guides that are much deeper and easier to affix within the block without generating metal filings, or machining costs.
Another option would be to use tie bar lifters and get rid of the trays altogether.
Then you have to find a way to support the lifters during a cam swap.
@@andrewlangley9507 you’d have to remove the lifters to do a cam swap. I used to work next door to Comp cams. They were cam swapping an old Ford FE and the tech fished the lifters up with coat hanger wire just enough that they were above the cam but still in the lifter bores. It kept him from pulling the intake and the carb. Okay for the dyno but need to change flat tappet lifters when changing cams....
I’ve noticed the same. The lifter HAS to remain 90* to the cam. You guys are onto it for sure 👍
Not being contrarian here, but don't you think the wheel wants to track straight along the cam? To me, it seems like the injection-molded lifter tray is not precisely-formed enough to hold the lifters/rollers in **perfect** alignment with the cam. It seems like the tray keeps it "more or less" aligned, and the natural tendency of the a wheel wanting to roll straight does the rest. But if that's true, his old worn out trays should have been adequate. It's an interesting question.
There are alot of blo thru guys that would love too see intercooler versus non intercooler with e85 on intake temps etc, be very interesting.. keep up the good work
I have a LQ4, have run several different cams and had this same lifter/cam wear problem, this is with new lifter guides every time, after going turbo, I went back to a stock LQ4 cam and LS6 valve springs- problem solved so far in 10,000 miles and 4,000 of it towing. I just couldn't get an aftermarket cam and strong valve springs to survive. I will try the link bar lifters next time- no way plastic trays can handle high valve spring rates.
let me know what works for you
youre correct, i had a factory roller sbc, over revved it, bend one of the fingers on the lifter hold down, and it spun, and did the exact same thing that happened to you
I've noticed a couple common things on LSs that can lead to lifter failure.
#1 BY FAR is the pickup tube o ring. Even if you have good oil pressure, it can be sucking air and filling your lifters.
#2 the cam retainer plate has an oring on the backside that seals up the lifter oiling galleys. This can also leak and cause oiling issues to the lifters.
With the way your lifters failed, I agree with your diagnosis.
I had found your video four days after I had discovered why my 2010 GMC 1500 crew cab with AFM with only 114,665 miles had developed a P0306 misfire and was running rough with a noticeable loss of power. I was over a thousand miles away from home and just two hours away from my brother in law's house when the engine problems had developed. I had managed to line it the rest of the way there.
While parked at my brother in law's driveway I had tore down the right bank and had discovered that the #6 intake lifter was rotating in the lifter tray, which had ruined both the lifter and the cam.
I had managed to tow my truck back home and begin the teardown process, and had discovered that all of the lifter trays were worn. Not a single lifter was able to be retained by the lifter trays. They were all loose, but only the one bad lifter had fully rotated. They're all getting replaced.
What had caused the lifter trays to wear like that? I'm still learning what was the reason, but simply put, plastic doesn't last as long as metal, especially under constant heating and cooling conditions of daily driving.
For the next episode:
70 Vs. 92, vs 102, vs 105 throttle body test
czcams.com/video/ZO6iQRes74E/video.html
Great idea!
I would like to see that
Bet you money it will show improvement past 5500 rpm. Very interesting...
If you think those plastic liners are keeping those lifters in line thanks again. Set those trays up and actually measure them. The flat surfaces are all over the place. It also must be said that there is not anything trying to rotate that lifter. The wheel is trying to hold it straight on the flag of the cam. The only time it can rotate is if it’s on the nose of the lifter or the base circle just saying.
and yet...this happens when the trays wear out
I always replaced lifter trays when pulling lifters. Specially on a junkyard build. General rule of thumb is if the lifters dont dont try and come out when you pull the trays, they need to be replaced
Hey buddy, good content. The first video of yours I saw was after Christmas and I thought you were just the typical bar brawler with an engine Dyno. I love the ls content. Inspiring.
I have a 2002 chevy 1500 silverado LS, 4.8 Lt. Pick up. It's got 280,000 miles after 20 yrs. I am a retired FF and was a founding member of Metro (Miami)-Dade Fire Rescues U.S.A.R. Team; Florida Task Force 1. We were the first out of initially, 26 teams Nationwide that have grown to probably close to 100 by now that were fire department based Urban search and rescue teams intended to respond to disasters nationwide/domestically through FEMA and to respond internationally through USAID/OFDA (US aid and international developement/ office of foreign Disaster Assistance). A big official title for a group of Select firemen who were lucky enough to belong to a department that had the opportunity to do this. Anyway, the reason I mention this is that I purchased this truck shortly after September 11th which also happened to be my 33rd birthday. After that experience I thought, screw it , life's short I might as well enjoy it so I went out and bought my first new truck. I've had it since that day and it's been an extremely reliable vehicle. Other than routine things such as brakes, batteries, and a water pump I have had no major problems or repairs. However I have developed a major rear main seal leak and a rattling lifter that I am concerned about. I'm not sure how to go about dealing with the lifter problem. The truck is in great shape and I would love to keep it another 10 plus years I don't know if I should just replace the lifters or consider doing more internal work to the engine. Part of me says don't fix it if it's not broken and another part of me says if I open this thing up I might as well consider doing a rebuilt what are your thoughts about this. Should I just fix the lifter or is it worth it to go further and if so, how much further? If this was your truck what would you consider doing? What would make sense and what would be going too far?
EASY FIX
My '03 Suburban started making a pretty loud noise from the top end back in August. I used some seafoam in the oil, then motor flush, and dropped the pan to clean it out. The noise went away, but the cylinder 5 idle misfire never did (isn't plugs, wires, coil, fuel injector, vac leak, etc, tested all that already). I'm now in the process of collecting the parts to put a fresh top end on it, picked up a set of rebuilt/machined 799 heads yesterday, ordered rockers with bronze trunnions today, new LS7 lifters, figuring out what cam I want to use now. Then I'll do a new timing set, new oil pump, and whatever else I need to replace while I'm in there. Looking like it'll run me about $1500 for everything, which I think is pretty reasonable for all new, good quality parts.
I considered a whole new engine, but the cost and the fact that this engine has been well taken care of (very clean under the valve covers, oil was changed regularly) made me decide to just fix what I have. A used/junkyard engine is a roll of the dice, no telling what you're going to get with those. If I got another vehicle, it could end up with the same issue or worse at any time. I'd also already put a lot of money into the brakes and suspension prior to a trip to the Grand Canyon, and it already had brand new Terra Grapplers on it when I bought it. Only logical choice for me was repairing it properly. Most everything I bought can be used on a LQ4 if I wanted to up the displacement later, too.
Love to see how a factory lsa blower will stack up against other blowers or turbos
I love your vids, they're really good and informative, just share with us please the itemized list of what we need to buy so we can duplicate (or at least try to remake what you bake up on your dyno machine)
Richard, would love to see you guys do a proper test and description of reading spark plugs and teaching folks how to read for a rich lean condition And also how to choose the proper heat range. I’m assuming lots of folks like to add power adders but they don’t know how to properly gauge the correct heat range to install. Thanks again.
we run 9 or 10 heat ranges in out boosted stuff
Picked up a junkyard 5.3 with lifter issues. This was a really helpful video. Thank you. It seems like there’s a big gap of dyno tests on the summit LS cams which seem to have some unique specs compared to the more commonly used cams. I’m interested to see a few of their truck and Pro LS cams tested in the 4.8/5.3 platform.
I've run a few of those
Richard Holdener awesome, are the results publicized anywhere? I’m looking at a few different ones for my build. Obviously the cam is wiped on my 5.3 so I’m leaning toward the 8713 for a moderate NA and eventually turbo build.
Definitely this is a idea since this happens so much i wonder if there is a way to use the old lt guide plate and trim down the plastic tray to have that extra support would that even work i wonder this idea is for budget builds of course the link bar is best but some of us poor guys gotta find little tricks
just use good, new GM trays-they work for 400,000 miles
Thank you for your feed back i just ordered a set of new oem from the dealer and they were cheap Thank you again love all the information you provide for us
WishbI had seen this 2 cams earlier...I ended up with a set of Chinese trays that allowed my lifters to rotate and took out the cam and all the lifters. Didn't know the trays were that important.
NA, ported stock heads, ported stock intake/ aftermarket aluminum intake, hi/po cam, LT headers vs shorty headers.
$25 for lifter trays, so change them any time you have a chance and they have a good amount of time on them.
Shoot for that kinda money it sounds stupid not to replace them if this is an issue on long term engines.
Not an LS dude but it's cool seeing them in all kinds of stuff.
Head and shoulders 100x better design than the ol 350 (lol here comes the hate , they had their place and did good )
@@hendo337 I'm going to have to say those aren't GM parts or quality performance replacement prices, unless you work a huge engine build shop.
@@hendo337 where do you get a $13 chain set from or are you putting a new chain on old gears?
@@hendo337 Not GM parts for 100.00 if so please give a link, thanks.
Thanks for your info. You cover a lot of different combinations with Ls engines.
Man I love your channel brother. I have learned so much about the LS platform. Thank you so much man. As I’m sure others do , I really appreciate what you do. Keep the vids coming brother.
I’d really love to see you test one of those tall doorman intakes before and after you porting out the weird chunks in the runners
Exactly why I want to go with link-bars on my next big update. With link-bar lifters you permanently remove the lifter trays and never have to worry about a lifter spinning in the bore.
I think very good find... Alot of people have lifter problems... They buy cheap off eBay/Amazon. An be right back where they started
I'm digging the blue nitrile glove, 2 arm torque wrench on the cam plate! FTW! "What's the torque on that fastener?" Tight!
as long as i make the click-click noise-its torqued
Could you look at and discuss rockers and pushrods as service/upgrade items? Bushed vs needle bearing rockers and thicker/stronger pushrods - are they worthwhile or necessary at some point when you're running higher lift and faster ramps on the cam lobes.
On the subject of lifter alignment: the stock pushrod length is virtually never correct when using an aftermarket cam. 99.99% of everyone is doing that wrong INCLUDING all the big name shops. .525 is max lift without changing cam journal size, pedestal height, valve stem height or pushrod length. The Comp 54-454-11 that gets used commonly on this channel is .624 lift. .624-.525/1.7=.058 lifter preload error. The factory spec is .100" +/-.025". If the motor comes from the factory on the low side that's .075-.058. That's ONLY .013 lifter preload. .087 out of spec...
For some stupid reason, people think that only regrinds have to reduce the basecircle to achieve more lift.
I have not found that to be the case-we measure PR length
Don't let me interrupt your arrogant ignorance.
Thanks a lot for the video!
It's excellent!
I like the LS tests, but I have a '96 LT1. I know nobody's using them anymore, but I wish I could see some testing on that platform. Even old tests would be nice
i have some old tests
My 4.8 same way put new ls7 lifters and new trays and stock cam and its great
Yeah, it's just like the wear on tires with a toe issue, it should make a small power increase, since the friction will be less!
I personally think it’s the worn out lifter trays + worn out lifters and hi RPM abuse. Just the spring pressure with zero lash should be sufficient to keep the lifter on the cam lob properly.
I recently heard a chirp which turned into a top end rebuild. My first LS tear down, I thought it a good thing I wasn't doing a cam. All 4 trays were not holding on to lifters. So I rotated cam again and nothing. All but 3 rollers flacking and another 2 went skiing sideways down their cam lobe. So I think that a very likely possibility.
I would love to see a comparison of different lift cams on a ls or a big block. One with up graded heads that will flow what's needed. Starting with a smaller lift to a medium lift to a high lift. Thanks love this stuff
I agree with the lifter tray replacement, especially on a budget friendly turbo project. What about when you want to spend a little more on a higher quality lifter that has link bars, is it worth it and do they hold up better then the lifter trays?
Just picked up a 150k stock LQ9 from a yard, it had spun a lifter and rounded off one lobe.
Awesome. Love watching your vids
With all the hipo LS builds out there I'd like to see a budget 4.8 running a 650 carb built for max torque spinning up to only 5500. 4.8's in the junkyard can be bought for a couple hundred bucks and can be easily built to a 300hp level for a cruiser with the biggest expense being the cam and ignition. Or how about using a stock truck motor with only the cam and modified harness and controller again for max torque. In other words a budget build up for a cruiser with a comparison between a carb and FI costs .....
Richard, great videos! I’m the guy that runs a rowdy heads/cam 14’ LS3 Camaro 500-600 miles a week just for work. Every time I do a cam change I pull the heads and replace the the lifters and trays. Each time I’ve done this my lifters look like yours. I get 30-40k on a cam. I’ve had 4 cams in this car. Is this about the life your getting from an aftermarket cam? I’d like to see some endurance tests 😬
Marvin Clarke maybe try less spring pressure if you arent revving it too high. Might help with your cam wear. Ive heard of high lift cams being worse when it comes to cam/valve-train wear too
Know Bull5hit I’m sure the high lift cams I run will be harder on the valve train all together. I use the BTR .660’s. They are pretty standard in the LS world. I just pulled the motor because it felt down on power. I looked at it and it trashed a lifter wheel, and an 8620 alloy Cam Motion cam. Needle bearings and pieces of the wheel are in my pan. 🙈
Richard what about nitrous + methanol in fogger instead of nitrous + gasoline and how it's react to timing, exhaust temperatures and knock.
that might be good
Thanks for the great info!!
Exactly what it is if your lifter is rotating not line with the cam you're in trouble after aftermarket trays will not work unless they're good quality you have to check the lifter make sure they're tight the performance guys are using the old fashioned roller type lifters with the bar eliminates lifter trays wearing out and while you're in there replace all the lifters and put a good oil pump on high volume you don't need the high pressure spring
From what I just saw on another channel, it looks like you will have a Ford 7.3 Godzilla on the dyno someday with great results.
Ford finally gave us something good.
Facts.. Ford did a lot right with the new engine..
Ford hasn't done anything good since the fox body who are you trying to lying to? Yourself or us? Chevrolet for the win heartbeat of AMERICA
@@mr.christopherp.4851 Damn, You sound worried already Fanboy, nobody's going to be kicking sand in Chevy's face for at least 2 years.
Definitely lifter spin.GM also had quite a few lifter trays in 01 Gen 3 5.3L that were cast/formed/molded with the lifter boss of the intake lifter clocked 10-15 degrees off which causes the lifter to run across the intake lobe sideways, taking out the intake lobe and lifters, experienced this in one of our personal rgs, wifes 01 5.3L Suburban.
Damn dude...awesome video on this.
I'd like to see you do a test with two GT 45 turbos to see if the back pressure would drop while still gaining boost
I agree with the idea of the chamfer on the lifter being caused by rotation. However that little bit they rotated in your example would not wear them like they appear. Maybe the trays expand with heat and the lifter rotates more, but I can’t see that little bit of rotation you demonstrated causing that amount of damage. We’re there loser trays? I will be changing mines when I do afm /dod delete.
Rebuild series of a LS engine would be cool with what parts are good for a street weekend vehicle. I do enjoy your videos keep up the good work Rich
The echo is rough, acoustic panels(or some insulation) in that room would help i think.
Great stuff thanks again Richard
Lifter tray sounds on point to me
I had a very similar instance happen that made the same scarring on the lobe. While running it would make a weird and very deep basie thud intermittently. If I could post pic I would. The client did reuse his trays, even though were snug fitting, it doesnt take much.
A good reason to never reuse trays, they are a wear item and should be replaced. Great video Richard!!!!!
I’m curious if the hemi lifters trays are doing the same thing
a little different design-but certainly possible
Richard Holdener
The hemi seems more like a design /material issue
If I had to guess
I recall seeing somewhere that you should not prelube the cam lobes on a roller cam. It can allow the rollers to slide rather than roll initially.
5:25
Any comments?
YES PRELUBE
Please test the new Ford 7.3 just as soon as You can get Your hands on one...
I want to see just how high the 4.8 can rev and make power. Good stock heads, pretty much as stock as possible short of the cam and valve spring upgrades. What's the weakest link shooting for 8000rpm or more
I wish you would do some tuning videos for computer settings on the LS with the BTR cams in boosted and non boosted applications
I would love to see an LSA vs similar sized Maggy vs Whipple... I know that is probably out of the budget, but it would be nice. I would also like to see lets say the LSA on rec vs cath heads same came same CC same CR same timing.
More often than not guys and gals neglect to change out the lifter trays when replacing lifters and i for the life of me cannot understand why. It is an inexpensive preventative maintenance item that should be done. And only use GM OEM trays, no Ebay stuff, it matters.
my name is turbo jack, i bought lifter trays off ebay, putting new lifters in my ebay trays in notis there were louse almost falling out. called gm got new trays, u haft to push thum in . good reason there tight , they index the lifter to the cam. don't by junk.
You are right on the money
It's called, " Skating ". The roller is not following the lobe in its designed fashion, and if you can imagine a ice skater accelerating across the ice the tail end of the skate kicks out each side. The roller is attempting to skate off of the lobe instead of following the rotation. On the opening side of the ramp, the lifter will skate to one side, and conversely on the closing side of the ramp, it tried to turn in the opposite direction. The roller is not following or rolling, it's in essence, skating. Hope that helps, SARGE
I always look forward to Richard picking my brain
Since 4.8s are on the low end of the torque it would be good to see a range of street cams so you could find the sweet spot factoring in weight and gears
Nick Adams every application is different. Depending on what the desired goals are of the vehicle and it’s intended use, the driving characteristics are going to vary in every application. That being said, choosing the right camshaft for specific vehicle based on weight and optimal desired “sweet spot” for any given motor is going to be different for each and every setup.
I just want to get my 2004 Silverado 4.8 vortec rebuilt to basic performance, but new everything.
We just had a lifter go out in the Denali. Luckily warranty covered it.
DOD? I've had friends when they were replacing lifters get the DOD deleted on the warranties dime. Just paid for new springs in the head for a little more aggressive cam.
@@masta51 nah, it's my better half's truck and she likes it stock as stock can be.