Hello Sir, I have a problem, the actuator pulls the cables and the shoes until they get stuck inside the mechanism, I changed the pinion kit and the same problem. Shoot until it locks. Is there any different mounting method? When I mounted it, I did the same as in your video, I left the cables extended to the maximum, then I mounted the shoes, the disk, and then I operated from the F3 F4 tablet, but at a certain point, it stopped working, because it pulls until it also blocks the release of the brake, it no longer works.
Hello Peter, the motor was producing some smoke when you are testing it. Check the amp draw on it, if it is higher than 5 amp, it might need to be replaced. This might have prompted the error you are seeing. I suspect this one was drawing in excess of 10 amps. This motor can be replaced by itself without replacing the entire module.
Great video! Gives you a good idea on how it all works. I have a 2011 CL500 W216 and I put a new auxiliary battery in the other day as my Distronic would not work (They are somehow connected). The little battery is in the drivers side dash behind the fuse box and when I replaced the battery I cross wired it and damaged the park brake module. The Distronic works fine now but, not the park brake!!!
Great video, Sir. They have similar actuators in the Land Rovers. I have just reconditioned mine as it jammed recently. First, I unwound one side that became stuck, then renewed the gears in the gearbox. One particular gear acts like a clutch to minimise damage to the other when they become jammed.
I remember having a rental of this era, and when I started the car, I didn't have to hold the starter position until the engine was on like most cars. Because we have to hold the key to the start position to have the bendix of the starter motor engaged. For that Mercedes I had, it was fancy, I could turn it to start and then immediately release and the ECU once receiving my input to command the start position, even when my hand was released, it figured out how long to engage the bendix of the starter and auto released it. I feel like the same technology might be in the parking brake, no need to hold, just push or pull briefly and release. Just like the one touch window feature you used.
I like seeing you use the power tool. I think you should include this in your other videos, even the DIY. Just a suggestion of course, your channel, you do as you please. But for time, just like at the dealer and like here and like when the camera is off, I would hope you crack it loose with a hand tool and then switch to power to buzz it out.
Great to see you have that working. I have worked on the 60's to early 70 VWs. I was surprised how well they seal everything in contrast to American cars. They even sealed the torsion bar. The interior light switches were sealed. This is why they floated forever. LoL My wife has this auto park brake on her RX350. Are we really getting that lazy? So it looks like your issue was crud on the mechanical parts of the park brake drum and shoes. Since I'm a poor bastard, I would probably have checked there first. Also because I don't have that cool test equipment. 😋
Hello Sir, I have a problem, the actuator pulls the cables and the shoes until they get stuck inside the mechanism, I changed the pinion kit and the same problem. Shoot until it locks. Is there any different mounting method? When I mounted it, I did the same as in your video, I left the cables extended to the maximum, then I mounted the shoes, the disk, and then I operated from the F3 F4 tablet, but at a certain point, it stopped working, because it pulls until it also blocks the release of the brake, it no longer works.
I have a problem with that but it only realise doesnt activate
Code 5160 Xentry? Only lubrication?. Thankyou
Hello Peter, the motor was producing some smoke when you are testing it. Check the amp draw on it, if it is higher than 5 amp, it might need to be replaced. This might have prompted the error you are seeing. I suspect this one was drawing in excess of 10 amps. This motor can be replaced by itself without replacing the entire module.
Great video! Gives you a good idea on how it all works. I have a 2011 CL500 W216 and I put a new auxiliary battery in the other day as my Distronic would not work (They are somehow connected). The little battery is in the drivers side dash behind the fuse box and when I replaced the battery I cross wired it and damaged the park brake module. The Distronic works fine now but, not the park brake!!!
Great video, Sir. They have similar actuators in the Land Rovers. I have just reconditioned mine as it jammed recently. First, I unwound one side that became stuck, then renewed the gears in the gearbox. One particular gear acts like a clutch to minimise damage to the other when they become jammed.
Thank you for these videos man, just reset it on the same year and model for my girlfriend and she’s stoked. Hopefully it doesn’t come back😂
I remember having a rental of this era, and when I started the car, I didn't have to hold the starter position until the engine was on like most cars. Because we have to hold the key to the start position to have the bendix of the starter motor engaged. For that Mercedes I had, it was fancy, I could turn it to start and then immediately release and the ECU once receiving my input to command the start position, even when my hand was released, it figured out how long to engage the bendix of the starter and auto released it. I feel like the same technology might be in the parking brake, no need to hold, just push or pull briefly and release. Just like the one touch window feature you used.
Good peter, just dismantle, look, analyse, reassemble and work it out logically !!
Which scanner you use? I will by me one for my 2008 S550 and 2006 R350. Good instruction to follow. 🎯
Good video. Takes the mystery out of the many complex systems of these luxury cars.
Very productive today, Petr! great job.
Was only checking a few minutes ago, luckily i came back 👌
great repair. simple in the end.
I like seeing you use the power tool. I think you should include this in your other videos, even the DIY. Just a suggestion of course, your channel, you do as you please. But for time, just like at the dealer and like here and like when the camera is off, I would hope you crack it loose with a hand tool and then switch to power to buzz it out.
Great to see you have that working. I have worked on the 60's to early 70 VWs. I was surprised how well they seal everything in contrast to American cars. They even sealed the torsion bar. The interior light switches were sealed. This is why they floated forever. LoL My wife has this auto park brake on her RX350. Are we really getting that lazy? So it looks like your issue was crud on the mechanical parts of the park brake drum and shoes. Since I'm a poor bastard, I would probably have checked there first. Also because I don't have that cool test equipment. 😋
I guess you should keep a spare close, I can see smoke coming out of the motor at