Dude!! The making you’re own alignment pins to hang the dash on was GENIUS!!! This video made doing this job 1000 times easier. I would recommend this video to the novice as well as the professional. Nice work!
All this is insane! I swear this was made so you would have to take it to a mechanic! I think I would need a week vacation from work just to do this job! Granted if I don’t break anything along the way! It’s not all that hard, just so much to do.
Just wanted to say thank you. I was really dreading this undertaking. I've never done any ac work, but my evaporator core had begun to leak releasing freon into the cab. I'm sure a mechanic would have charged a fortune that I don't have. It had to be fixed. So I got the kit from Rockauto, (great source)added the heater core and blower motor and set aside the time. I put this video on, used it as a step by step guide. I had it pulled apart in one afternoon, parts replaced in the air box, and all back together by the end of the next day. Thanks for helping me accomplish a daunting task, avoid much difficulty and probably quite a few mistakes (and save several hundred dollars if not more). Much appreciated!
I used your excellent video to replace the heater core in my 2010 King Ranch. Your tips were invaluable since I also have to work by myself. Folks can lean a lot from mechanics like you! Thank you for making this job a little easier!
Thank you sir. Great video! I'm shop owner for 40yrs, and getting ready to do my first 14 f150. I think I'll get the whole heater case from Ford! God bless you also! Thank you!
You’re very welcome! The case I got from Ford did not include a heater core or any actuators. You may want to buy those as well if your customer wants them.
Been looking for a full detailed video cuz I’m changing my AC evaporator core on my 2010 F150 HD on Sunday and your video gave me broader insight where to start from. Thank you so much for such a video!🙏🏽
What an excellent instructional video! This definitely gives me the confidence to tackle this job on my 2013 F-150 Lariat. You are a very good instructor! Thank You.
I did this, thanks for the video. I used the short stock bolts to tilt the dash, was a bit tight but I got it out/in. Had it apart, didn't want to run to the store for hardware. Plenty of angle. The hardest part was getting the box to line up with the lower vent and tilt it back in. Went with an aftermarket evap, Was under $100 for everything. Changed the expansion valve and all the valve cores too. Used a 5 gal bucket with a pillow to hold the pass dash. Wheel rested on driver seat. went with a bungee to hold the wheel.
Awesome! No fitment issues with the aftermarket one? That’s great. I’ve used both but have had a few aftermarket ones that didn’t fit in the box exactly right. Enjoy your cold a/c! This summer has been insanely hot.
@@RedeemedMechanic Thanks! Very slight tweak/bend of the hard lines under the hood .. Maybe not even needed. 1.75oz oil (book says 1.5, but there was a quite a bit visible). Used UAC EV939847PFC. Nice tight fit in the slot. Held vac for 3 days till I charged it. Says it is coated, hope it holds up!
@@RedeemedMechanic I’ve been able to remove 3 dash’s in record time thanks to your video. Did a whole harness swap between 2 of them, and I couldn’t have done it without you r detailed video, thanks again.
Absolutely the very best. Your calm cool mechanical abilities are great to watch. Best video hands down. I will do it your way compared to the other utub videos that make you lay on your back and rip your hands and arms up only to gain maybe an hour of time by not taking the dash out. Thank you so much.
Nice video and great tips! I’m with you on selling a oem evap case if possible . The aftermarket China evap cores never fit correctly and are always a pain trying to get to line up.
Definitely thanks. I see you haven't put any out in a while and I don't blame you. It's a PItA. Thanks though for the F150. It helped me. Appreciate it.
Yeah, I only make videos when it’s worth showing. My day-to-day stuff is usually boring and repetitive, and I don’t feel it’s worth posting. I do have a TikTok where I put shorter stuff. Same name.
About to do this on my 2014 Raptor down here in the Virgin Island’s want a trip down here to do the job LOL. Thanks for the great video waiting on parts to arrive and will start.
Really appreciate the video. Made the job so much easier. 1 question- the rod that connects the main blend door to what I think is the passenger blend control- it is on thr driver's side of the box- is that rod supposed to be bent? Mine has a slight bend in it and I wonder if it is supposed to be that way.
I honestly don’t recall, sometimes they will have a small bend in order to clear the box, but when they do it’s usually a tight angled bend that look purposeful. So if it looks more bowed than actually formed, I’d suspect it’s been damaged. You could probably pull a parts diagram from Motorcraft parts and compare yours to the diagram if you aren’t sure.
@@RedeemedMechanic I was able to confirm that it is indeed bent purposefully. It helps to talk to a parts guy at the dealership that knows how to use his computer systems!
This is an excellent video that shows how much work is evolved. My F150,2014, my AC has low flow. Mechanic ran a borescope. Evaporator is plugged up with hair and carpet fibers. He will charge $1000 to clean it. Is this about right?
If he is removing the HVAC case to clean the evaporator, then that sounds like a fair labor amount. On some vehicles, you can remove the blower motor and blower motor resistor and gain access to the dirty side of the evaporator to clean it up. Still time consuming, but not $1000 time consuming. I don’t recall if that’s possible on the 08-14 F150, but I’ve done it on a few other trucks. I think it’s crazy that many light trucks and vans didn’t get cabin filters until years after passenger cars from the same manufacturer did. Seems like the engineers didn’t think about the work environment of the vehicles.
My 2013 F150 had the both the compressor and evaporator go bad, the ford dealership was able to replace the compressor and told me the evaporator wasn’t as bad as first thought. Right now it works and blows cold but I know eventually I need to replace the evaporator, ( I plan to use ford parts) considering the big job should I also replace any other parts ( condenser, expansion valve, etc) while the dash is already removed to make it a new ac system or just what’s needed such as the evaporator?
It would be a good idea to replace the heater core while you are in there. The evaporator will come with a new expansion valve if you are buying it from Ford. If you have any issues with actuators, it’s a perfect time to swap them out as well.
There are three bolts on the drivers side upper dash. Two are located behind the instrument cluster, and the third is at the base of the driver’s A pillar.
I don’t really have a “favorite” brand for evaporators. I usually try to install OEM parts when it comes to evaporators and heater cores. Not to say I don’t ever install aftermarket ones, I’ve done bunches of them. Can’t say that I’ve found any aftermarket brand to stand out as far as good fitment or reliability. Four Seasons, Spectra, UAC, Global all seem pretty much the same. I’d say if you can make it fit in the box without bending it too much or positioning it where it rubs internally, you’re good to go. Either here or on my TikTok I have a short video showing how you sometimes have to trim the insides of the HVAC case in order to make aftermarket evaporators fit comfortably. It’s for a Grand Caravan, but the concept is the same.
@@RedeemedMechanic Absolutely OEM is best, but I also have 27yo cars that the Evap is still good. I read these can have repeat failures. Price is very attractive though. For $100 I have everything including the seals, oil, TXV in the cart. If it is 2-3 hrs, may be worth to take that route DIY. Not going to be keeping the truck forever too. Thanks for this explanation. There is another YT tech in FL (rainmain ray), he had to replace the entire F150 box JUST because of the temp sensor. Impossible to get on its own. That could be a reason to get the box, but mine works fine for now.
Much to my disappointment, the “assembly” I bought from Ford came without a new heater core and without any actuators. Ford used to include all of those in their HVAC assemblies.
Typically you’d want to change the evaporator, expansion valve, and heater core. If you live in a high humidity area, you may want to change the desiccant in your drier/condenser assembly as well, since the system is open for quite a while.
I’m here in Florida where in-cabin temperatures get very high when cars are parked in direct sunlight. Especially for dark colored vehicles. So the evaporator is a common failure between 5-10 years. This truck was 7 years old when this job was done. The replacement unit should last just as long, because I use Ford parts. It does seem to me that vehicles which aren’t parked in direct sun often and have lighter color paint seem to have far fewer evaporator issues.
Do those in dash temperature detectors go bad or are they pretty reliable? I've had mine torn into too many times between blender door replacements including a new condenser, evaporator etc. Still blows not cold enough. Had a trusted mechanic pull the freon and weigh it and just couldn't get it any colder but he doesn't do much more than the basics. Don't want to take it to a dealer and not afraid to do what you just did as long as someone purges the freon first. I wish you were like 1 state away but you're in Florida right?
In my experience they are accurate until they go bad and once they do they usually fail so bad you get no ac at all. I’ve never seen one fail in a way that you only get poor cooling. I have seen a lot of dirty evaporators cause poor cooling. Up until 2013 many of the F-150s didn’t have cabin filters, so the evaporator would get covered in dust/contaminants and stop cooling as well. Yes, I’m in Central Florida.
@@RedeemedMechanic Goodness such a quick response and from what I'm reading sounds like accurate information. Yes 2010 no in cabin filter but when AAA replaced everything should have been a new evaporator core along with everything but the compressor. I get this Darth Vader exhale sound now like every 10 seconds coming from the right side of my dash I don't think they replaced everyjting OEM and I've hear Fords can be kind of picky when it comes to after market parts. A good mechanic can probably get me going right again at least for few years.
@@Corey-dy2cq I try to stay on top of my comments when I can. I figure lots of times people are stuck in the middle of a repair, so time is of the essence. Of course, we all have lives and I can’t always do that, but when I can I do.
@@RedeemedMechanic awesome sir, Im a mechanic but not a truck mechanic. I work in heavy equipment, this evaporator needs to be replaced on my truck and Ive never done one. I appreciate the video and the knowledge. 👍🏼
The part for this truck was DL3Z-19850-H, but when buying the Ford assembly, you need to match the options exactly. So if it has automatic temperature control, it has a different number, (typically the last few letters will be different). If it has dual zone controls, also a different number (and so on). Make sure you confirm for your own truck. It makes a difference. You can use your VIN number and search on www.shopfordpartsonline.com/
It’s a lot of labor, and the parts vary. I used a Ford evaporator assembly, which lists for $713.00 from Ford. Most shops will go a few dollars above list when they resell to you. I don’t recommend aftermarket evaporators in Ford vehicles. They never fit well (but they usually cost less than half what Ford charges). Total labor charges were 11.5 hours. My hourly rate is much lower than most shops in my area, but it still adds up. At my current rate, that’s $805 for the labor. So, depending on whether you want to risk using an aftermarket evaporator and the labor rate of the shop you choose, it can run from $1400 to over $2000 for this repair. If you do it yourself, you can realistically stay under $850 even with having to pay a shop to safely recover your refrigerant before you start.
@@RedeemedMechanic Thank you for the quick reply! I don't think I want to try and tackle this project, better off leaving it to a local shop or Ford dealer!
@@kevinhocker5451 maybe, but it’s better to be slow and methodical when you’re relatively new to dash work. I’m very experienced with these and I still always tell my customers I’ll need the car for two days, just in case I run into complications.
I just bought my first Ford (2014 Raptor)... It will be my last Ford product. I don't need this done, but was curious... Holy crap! This is Ford Engineering at its best (worst)....
I’ve never removed a Raptor dash. It’s probably pretty close but SVT typically likes to add items all through the vehicle, so you might see a few differences.
After doing this job, there's only 2 ways I would do this job again. 100% oem parts (i.e. EVAP and heater core) or like shown in this video, a whole new unit. Aftermarket parts fit like junk and caused a lot of fiddling. Not worth the time.
I watched this because I will most likely be tackling this job fairly soon. I work at a tow company and have been doing repairs on fleet and customer cars. The reason we feel we will need to perform this job, is because the sweet scent of Freon is coming out of vents. The system was low, so we are assuming it is a leaking evap. Is that a correct assumption? (Before I dig into his dash)
If you smell that a/c oil when you first turn in the fans, it’s definitely a confirming indicator of a leaking evaporator. A leak detector (sniffer) at the drain tube can verify that if you have one.
It took about 6-7 hours for this job. Filming adds a little time. If it’s your first time doing a full dash pull, I’d plan for 10 hours. Take your time, take pictures along the way, and stop for food/water breaks so you don’t get hangry!
is it ok to remove the plastic pin that goes in the evaporator? its fits nicely in the old evap but the new one its like its too big there is a plastic pin and metal pin which im guessing is for temp
@@angelgj92 it’s needs to be there. It’s the evap temp sensor and your evaporator coils freeze over if it isn’t placed correctly. You have to carefully get it between the tubes. It’s ok if the wavy fins get spread apart, but the straight flat tubes can’t get bent. I’ve trimmed the plastic insert part down to make things fit better before.
T.M.I and not enough info If your going to make a instructional video with way too much info, show how to recover and recharge the system properly Anyone who actually needed all this stuff explained has no buisness working on their own vehicle or anyone elses
Well, over 48,000 views and you’re the first negative comment. Congrats!! However, I made this video for the DIY crowd, who typically don’t own recovery machines. So I didn’t bother showing how to use one, since as mentioned in the video, they’d have to have a professional do that part before starting. That’s of course if they still have any refrigerant left in the system, which is not common with evaporator leaks. But I appreciate the feedback. Hope you found portions of the video useful anyway.
Dude!! The making you’re own alignment pins to hang the dash on was GENIUS!!! This video made doing this job 1000 times easier. I would recommend this video to the novice as well as the professional. Nice work!
Thank you!
All this is insane! I swear this was made so you would have to take it to a mechanic! I think I would need a week vacation from work just to do this job! Granted if I don’t break anything along the way! It’s not all that hard, just so much to do.
Just wanted to say thank you. I was really dreading this undertaking. I've never done any ac work, but my evaporator core had begun to leak releasing freon into the cab. I'm sure a mechanic would have charged a fortune that I don't have. It had to be fixed. So I got the kit from Rockauto, (great source)added the heater core and blower motor and set aside the time. I put this video on, used it as a step by step guide. I had it pulled apart in one afternoon, parts replaced in the air box, and all back together by the end of the next day. Thanks for helping me accomplish a daunting task, avoid much difficulty and probably quite a few mistakes (and save several hundred dollars if not more). Much appreciated!
I’m very glad it helped. That’s the exact reason I post these, to give people options when money is tight.
Just got quoted around 1400 dollars by my mechanic for my 2014. I'm gonna be doing the same as you. Seems a very daunting task....
I used your excellent video to replace the heater core in my 2010 King Ranch. Your tips were invaluable since I also have to work by myself. Folks can lean a lot from mechanics like you! Thank you for making this job a little easier!
You’re welcome, I’m very glad it helped you out.
Thank you sir. Great video! I'm shop owner for 40yrs, and getting ready to do my first 14 f150. I think I'll get the whole heater case from Ford! God bless you also! Thank you!
You’re very welcome! The case I got from Ford did not include a heater core or any actuators. You may want to buy those as well if your customer wants them.
Great video ! As a fellow technician I appreciate the tips, recommended methods and the attention to detail.....good job sir.
Same here he made the most in depth video I could find and I spent like 3 hours searching for a video
Excellent video w/ some great tips. Especially the long bolt on the driver's side and the stud on the passenger side for reinstallation.
Been looking for a full detailed video cuz I’m changing my AC evaporator core on my 2010 F150 HD on Sunday and your video gave me broader insight where to start from.
Thank you so much for such a video!🙏🏽
Glad it helped and hope everything goes smoothly!
What an excellent instructional video! This definitely gives me the confidence to tackle this job on my 2013 F-150 Lariat. You are a very good instructor! Thank You.
Glad it helped!
I did this, thanks for the video. I used the short stock bolts to tilt the dash, was a bit tight but I got it out/in. Had it apart, didn't want to run to the store for hardware. Plenty of angle.
The hardest part was getting the box to line up with the lower vent and tilt it back in. Went with an aftermarket evap, Was under $100 for everything. Changed the expansion valve and all the valve cores too. Used a 5 gal bucket with a pillow to hold the pass dash. Wheel rested on driver seat. went with a bungee to hold the wheel.
Awesome! No fitment issues with the aftermarket one? That’s great. I’ve used both but have had a few aftermarket ones that didn’t fit in the box exactly right. Enjoy your cold a/c! This summer has been insanely hot.
@@RedeemedMechanic Thanks! Very slight tweak/bend of the hard lines under the hood .. Maybe not even needed. 1.75oz oil (book says 1.5, but there was a quite a bit visible). Used UAC EV939847PFC. Nice tight fit in the slot. Held vac for 3 days till I charged it. Says it is coated, hope it holds up!
Amazing how this was all done with one hand, serious skills!! This guy is a genius, I’ve learned a lot from this video. So detailed
Thank you! It is quite a challenge doing the work while holding the phone camera sometimes.
@@RedeemedMechanic I’ve been able to remove 3 dash’s in record time thanks to your video.
Did a whole harness swap between 2 of them, and I couldn’t have done it without you r detailed video, thanks again.
@@braddubois6836 awesome! Glad it helped out!
@@RedeemedMechanic Id love to get in contact with you about doing this to my truck.
@@cmoon9259 if you’re in the Orlando area we might be able to work that out. Email me at RedeemedMechanic@mail.com
Wow that's a lot of work!!!! No wonder Ford charges over $1700 plus parts to do this!!! Thank you for making the video!!
Glad to help! Yes it’s a big job but not insurmountable.
Absolutely the very best. Your calm cool mechanical abilities are great to watch. Best video hands down. I will do it your way compared to the other utub videos that make you lay on your back and rip your hands and arms up only to gain maybe an hour of time by not taking the dash out. Thank you so much.
Thank you for your kind comment!
Nice video and great tips! I’m with you on selling a oem evap case if possible . The aftermarket China evap cores never fit correctly and are always a pain trying to get to line up.
Think this is pretty similar to a 2011 raptor with the floor shifter? Need to do the blend door actuator on the bottom of the AC box.
Definitely thanks. I see you haven't put any out in a while and I don't blame you. It's a PItA. Thanks though for the F150. It helped me. Appreciate it.
Yeah, I only make videos when it’s worth showing. My day-to-day stuff is usually boring and repetitive, and I don’t feel it’s worth posting. I do have a TikTok where I put shorter stuff. Same name.
@@RedeemedMechanicHey thanks all the same my friend. You are a fine mechanic!
This is a good video, great job.
How do you get the complete evaporator case from ford and what does that cost?
Brother Thank You for your Time, Great Video, huge help.
Glad to assist!
love how you do the videos,,,,,other youtube,,,,,videos only talk and do nothing,,,only want to show there faces on camera......nice work....
Thank you! I get frustrated with the long unrelated intros also.
About to do this on my 2014 Raptor down here in the Virgin Island’s want a trip down here to do the job LOL. Thanks for the great video waiting on parts to arrive and will start.
By far the best video I’ve ever seen for this.
Thanks!
Thank you so much sir 🤗❤️
Great video. Thanks
Thank you big time for your video!
Really appreciate the video. Made the job so much easier.
1 question- the rod that connects the main blend door to what I think is the passenger blend control- it is on thr driver's side of the box- is that rod supposed to be bent? Mine has a slight bend in it and I wonder if it is supposed to be that way.
I honestly don’t recall, sometimes they will have a small bend in order to clear the box, but when they do it’s usually a tight angled bend that look purposeful.
So if it looks more bowed than actually formed, I’d suspect it’s been damaged. You could probably pull a parts diagram from Motorcraft parts and compare yours to the diagram if you aren’t sure.
@@RedeemedMechanic I was able to confirm that it is indeed bent purposefully. It helps to talk to a parts guy at the dealership that knows how to use his computer systems!
This is an excellent video that shows how much work is evolved.
My F150,2014, my AC has low flow. Mechanic ran a borescope. Evaporator is plugged up with hair and carpet fibers. He will charge $1000 to clean it. Is this about right?
If he is removing the HVAC case to clean the evaporator, then that sounds like a fair labor amount.
On some vehicles, you can remove the blower motor and blower motor resistor and gain access to the dirty side of the evaporator to clean it up. Still time consuming, but not $1000 time consuming.
I don’t recall if that’s possible on the 08-14 F150, but I’ve done it on a few other trucks.
I think it’s crazy that many light trucks and vans didn’t get cabin filters until years after passenger cars from the same manufacturer did. Seems like the engineers didn’t think about the work environment of the vehicles.
My 2013 F150 had the both the compressor and evaporator go bad, the ford dealership was able to replace the compressor and told me the evaporator wasn’t as bad as first thought. Right now it works and blows cold but I know eventually I need to replace the evaporator, ( I plan to use ford parts) considering the big job should I also replace any other parts ( condenser, expansion valve, etc) while the dash is already removed to make it a new ac system or just what’s needed such as the evaporator?
It would be a good idea to replace the heater core while you are in there. The evaporator will come with a new expansion valve if you are buying it from Ford.
If you have any issues with actuators, it’s a perfect time to swap them out as well.
Thank you for share !!
I did mine. Took me about 6 hours. I didn’t remove the seats. Only the steering column. Didn’t have to remove the hvac box to replace the heater core.
just saw this videop a few days ago. took out all the bolts, but it seems that the driver's side is still attached. . any ideas? thanks
There are three bolts on the drivers side upper dash. Two are located behind the instrument cluster, and the third is at the base of the driver’s A pillar.
Very nice, I will be attempting soon! What brand of aftermarket evap do you like best?
I don’t really have a “favorite” brand for evaporators. I usually try to install OEM parts when it comes to evaporators and heater cores.
Not to say I don’t ever install aftermarket ones, I’ve done bunches of them. Can’t say that I’ve found any aftermarket brand to stand out as far as good fitment or reliability.
Four Seasons, Spectra, UAC, Global all seem pretty much the same. I’d say if you can make it fit in the box without bending it too much or positioning it where it rubs internally, you’re good to go.
Either here or on my TikTok I have a short video showing how you sometimes have to trim the insides of the HVAC case in order to make aftermarket evaporators fit comfortably. It’s for a Grand Caravan, but the concept is the same.
www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRo1b6pv/
@@RedeemedMechanic Absolutely OEM is best, but I also have 27yo cars that the Evap is still good. I read these can have repeat failures. Price is very attractive though. For $100 I have everything including the seals, oil, TXV in the cart. If it is 2-3 hrs, may be worth to take that route DIY. Not going to be keeping the truck forever too. Thanks for this explanation. There is another YT tech in FL (rainmain ray), he had to replace the entire F150 box JUST because of the temp sensor. Impossible to get on its own. That could be a reason to get the box, but mine works fine for now.
Pretty much the same for 2010 F150? Maybe a few little differences here and there?
Very similar. The center console might be a bit different. That’s about it.
Do these new evap box assemblies come with a new heater core? Great video!
Much to my disappointment, the “assembly” I bought from Ford came without a new heater core and without any actuators. Ford used to include all of those in their HVAC assemblies.
what are the recommended parts to replace when changing evap. core and heater core/
Typically you’d want to change the evaporator, expansion valve, and heater core.
If you live in a high humidity area, you may want to change the desiccant in your drier/condenser assembly as well, since the system is open for quite a while.
Wow great work alot of effort. How often are these likely to fail? How many years should a replacement last.
I’m here in Florida where in-cabin temperatures get very high when cars are parked in direct sunlight. Especially for dark colored vehicles.
So the evaporator is a common failure between 5-10 years. This truck was 7 years old when this job was done. The replacement unit should last just as long, because I use Ford parts.
It does seem to me that vehicles which aren’t parked in direct sun often and have lighter color paint seem to have far fewer evaporator issues.
Thanks sr. What was the torque for the site's.
For the seats, the torque was 41 foot pounds.
Do those in dash temperature detectors go bad or are they pretty reliable? I've had mine torn into too many times between blender door replacements including a new condenser, evaporator etc. Still blows not cold enough. Had a trusted mechanic pull the freon and weigh it and just couldn't get it any colder but he doesn't do much more than the basics. Don't want to take it to a dealer and not afraid to do what you just did as long as someone purges the freon first. I wish you were like 1 state away but you're in Florida right?
In my experience they are accurate until they go bad and once they do they usually fail so bad you get no ac at all. I’ve never seen one fail in a way that you only get poor cooling.
I have seen a lot of dirty evaporators cause poor cooling. Up until 2013 many of the F-150s didn’t have cabin filters, so the evaporator would get covered in dust/contaminants and stop cooling as well. Yes, I’m in Central Florida.
@@RedeemedMechanic Goodness such a quick response and from what I'm reading sounds like accurate information. Yes 2010 no in cabin filter but when AAA replaced everything should have been a new evaporator core along with everything but the compressor. I get this Darth Vader exhale sound now like every 10 seconds coming from the right side of my dash I don't think they replaced everyjting OEM and I've hear Fords can be kind of picky when it comes to after market parts. A good mechanic can probably get me going right again at least for few years.
@@Corey-dy2cq if it’s making that exhale sound it usually means it’s low on refrigerant. I’d have the truck leak tested.
@@Corey-dy2cq I try to stay on top of my comments when I can. I figure lots of times people are stuck in the middle of a repair, so time is of the essence. Of course, we all have lives and I can’t always do that, but when I can I do.
Great video, thanks. How long does it take you to do from start to finish? I plan on doing my own evaporator core soon. Thank you sir
First one I did on this type of truck took about 10 hours, but I wasn’t rushing.
@@RedeemedMechanic awesome sir, Im a mechanic but not a truck mechanic. I work in heavy equipment, this evaporator needs to be replaced on my truck and Ive never done one.
I appreciate the video and the knowledge. 👍🏼
@@jibrilthegreat35 glad to help!
I was hoping you could show me where a green connector that is part of harness where u connect steering stuff
I’m sorry this was a customer’s vehicle, not my own, so I don’t have access to it now.
I should of took a pic
@@PedroHernandez-xl8gw I take pictures a lot when I’m doing long jobs. You’ll find it.
That was crazy, you have to disamble the whole dash, I can not do that....
Yes, that’s the method for most vehicles now. Very few vehicles on the road have an main evaporator that is accessible without removing the dash.
excellent job
can I have the part number of the evaporator?
The part for this truck was DL3Z-19850-H, but when buying the Ford assembly, you need to match the options exactly.
So if it has automatic temperature control, it has a different number, (typically the last few letters will be different). If it has dual zone controls, also a different number (and so on).
Make sure you confirm for your own truck. It makes a difference. You can use your VIN number and search on www.shopfordpartsonline.com/
I have been told that my 2013 F150 has a leak in the evaporator core and I am curious on what to expect this repair will cost? Parts and labor. Thanks
It’s a lot of labor, and the parts vary. I used a Ford evaporator assembly, which lists for $713.00 from Ford. Most shops will go a few dollars above list when they resell to you. I don’t recommend aftermarket evaporators in Ford vehicles. They never fit well (but they usually cost less than half what Ford charges).
Total labor charges were 11.5 hours. My hourly rate is much lower than most shops in my area, but it still adds up. At my current rate, that’s $805 for the labor.
So, depending on whether you want to risk using an aftermarket evaporator and the labor rate of the shop you choose, it can run from $1400 to over $2000 for this repair.
If you do it yourself, you can realistically stay under $850 even with having to pay a shop to safely recover your refrigerant before you start.
@@RedeemedMechanic Thank you for the quick reply! I don't think I want to try and tackle this project, better off leaving it to a local shop or Ford dealer!
How long did it end up take you to pull the dash?
Total time for me on this job was about 7 hours, but I think it calls for 9.5-10 hours in the labor guide.
I’m looking at pulling a dash from a salvage yard, thanks for the detailed video, hopefully i can have the dash off in a couple hours
@@keith3151 oh yeah, dash removal would be fairly easy at the junkyard if you can find one intact.
Could you please tell me how many hours it took you to complete that job
Typically that job takes me about 7 hours. I probably spent longer on this one because filming slows you way down.
What do you think it would take for someone that's only pulled a couple of dashes out I'm guessing probably 16 to 17 hours
@@RedeemedMechanic and thanks for the info I appreciate it
@@kevinhocker5451 maybe, but it’s better to be slow and methodical when you’re relatively new to dash work. I’m very experienced with these and I still always tell my customers I’ll need the car for two days, just in case I run into complications.
I just bought my first Ford (2014 Raptor)... It will be my last Ford product. I don't need this done, but was curious... Holy crap! This is Ford Engineering at its best (worst)....
Unfortunately, pretty much every manufacturer has this level of difficulty (or worse) when removing the dash.
Is this the same for a 2011 raptor?
I’ve never removed a Raptor dash. It’s probably pretty close but SVT typically likes to add items all through the vehicle, so you might see a few differences.
@@RedeemedMechanic usually when I see differences it means "makes it more difficult" hehe
Keep up the good work Sir!
@@MaddSweetGT500 very true! 😂
After doing this job, there's only 2 ways I would do this job again. 100% oem parts (i.e. EVAP and heater core) or like shown in this video, a whole new unit. Aftermarket parts fit like junk and caused a lot of fiddling. Not worth the time.
Definitely, especially with Ford evaporators. For whatever reason, the aftermarket folks can’t seem to be able to replicate them accurately.
When can you do mine?
If you’re in East Central Florida give me a call at 321-593-6810.
@@RedeemedMechanic Im in Hardee County...How close are you?
@@harleyclyde1010 that’s about a three hour drive from me.
I watched this because I will most likely be tackling this job fairly soon. I work at a tow company and have been doing repairs on fleet and customer cars. The reason we feel we will need to perform this job, is because the sweet scent of Freon is coming out of vents. The system was low, so we are assuming it is a leaking evap. Is that a correct assumption? (Before I dig into his dash)
If you smell that a/c oil when you first turn in the fans, it’s definitely a confirming indicator of a leaking evaporator. A leak detector (sniffer) at the drain tube can verify that if you have one.
shows how to unclip each clip
how long did it take you to do all this?
It took about 6-7 hours for this job. Filming adds a little time. If it’s your first time doing a full dash pull, I’d plan for 10 hours. Take your time, take pictures along the way, and stop for food/water breaks so you don’t get hangry!
is it ok to remove the plastic pin that goes in the evaporator? its fits nicely in the old evap but the new one its like its too big there is a plastic pin and metal pin which im guessing is for temp
this 55:35
@@angelgj92 it’s needs to be there. It’s the evap temp sensor and your evaporator coils freeze over if it isn’t placed correctly.
You have to carefully get it between the tubes. It’s ok if the wavy fins get spread apart, but the straight flat tubes can’t get bent. I’ve trimmed the plastic insert part down to make things fit better before.
yea thats the one im talking about im going to file the plastic pin to be able to insert it otherwise it wont go in
T.M.I and not enough info
If your going to make a instructional video with way too much info, show how to recover and recharge the system properly
Anyone who actually needed all this stuff explained has no buisness working on their own vehicle or anyone elses
Well, over 48,000 views and you’re the first negative comment. Congrats!!
However, I made this video for the DIY crowd, who typically don’t own recovery machines. So I didn’t bother showing how to use one, since as mentioned in the video, they’d have to have a professional do that part before starting. That’s of course if they still have any refrigerant left in the system, which is not common with evaporator leaks.
But I appreciate the feedback. Hope you found portions of the video useful anyway.