2020 Ford Escape Drivers Door repair DIY (read description for service bulletin info and parts info)
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- 2020 Ford Escape Drivers Door repair DIY
IMPORTANT UPDATE.....$$ 6/6/24.....$$ FORD IS PAYING FOR REPAIRS!!!!
Ford Customer satisfaction program 23B56 was just issued and good until 5/31/27 says FORD WILL PAY FOR YOUR REPAIR!
PARTS UPDATE: after about a month the ALUMINUM rivets began to wear, so I made the repair replacing all of the rivets.
1. I used LARGE head STEEL rivets Ace Hardware item #2014405. They are 3/16 diameter by 3/8 gripping reach so I could also place a #10 fender washer on the inside of each rivet to distribute the pressure more. There is a tremendous amount of pressure on the door frame when passing over the spots in the door limiter that hold the door open.
2. Also added 2 #10 diameter x 3/4 length pan head machine screws with #10 fender washers inside and out and nylock nuts in the 2 spots where I mentioned in the video I might (but then did not) add 2 extra rivets. ALSO, I see no reason you couldn’t use all screws/washers/nuts instead of the rivets if you did not own a riveting tool.
Using the large head rivets and machine screws with the fender washers spread the pressure out over more of the door frame when the door opens and closes on the door limiter assembly.
Thank you for this video. My wife's 2020 Escape just suffered this same failure and I was able to repair it with your video.🙏👍
Glad to help!
Mine has the same issue they should just place out a recall
I think because it’s not considered a “safety issue” the government won’t make them issue a recall. That’s to bad since it appears to be a common issue. My dealer had 3 more reported to them within 1 week of my report. Luckily my repair method isn’t expensive or hard if you have some basic tools and mechanical skills if your out of warranty
I hate my 2020 ford..hate it..last ford i buy..the 2014 escape i had was way better. Also service at the dealer is terrible!
Thank you for the video. I fixed mine for $5.34 and two hours (start to finish) in my own garage, thanks to this video. You have the only good repair video for this issue. Thanks again.
Good for you! I love it when a plan comes together
Tim I want to thank you for not only posting this fix, but answering all of my questions. My 1st real car repair is successful! I did end up putting a couple of self tapping screws in as well as using a large clamp that would reach deep enough into the door to clamp the door limiter's housing TIGHT against the door before riveting. Worked like a charm! No movement in the rivets. I also realized the majority of the clicking sound was not having the door jam's STAR key nut tightened enough. Now, no noise and window works!! You the man! Saved me $2,500!!
Glad I could help, and good job to you on your repair! I get a lot of ideas and knowledge from other CZcams posters, so when I have something that’s worthwhile I always post it hoping I can help someone else like the others have helped me. Sounds like we are now both graduates of the CZcams university. LOL! Tim
I used pop rivets on my door but it still makes a really loud clicking sounds when opening and closing it. Where is the door jam's STAR key nut so I can tighten that and see if it works?
@@davidludwig8407 most likely one or more of the rivets are a little loose, I too had that issue. Look at the rivets while you wiggle the door to see if one/some move a bit? I drilled those out and made sure the tool was tightly set against the door and installed new rivets. Hope that helps
Thanks for the lesson. You would make a great teacher. I did all the steps unfortunately before reading your update. Will have to watch how long the aluminum holds on. After putting it all back together the window will only role down about 2 inches. Do you think the regulator was damaged? @@timthetoolman4575
@@LarryUnderwood-if5mj I would imagine so. Mine was not, but a lot of people have commented that theirs were damaged by the limiter and bracket moving around inside the door when they closed the door. Luckily mine broke just before I left home so I had access to tools and could cut the door limiter right away before it did any further damage
This is great. The same rivets popped out on my 2020 Escape and the Ford dealer told me it would cost $4400 for a new door and installation. That is some kind of mafia sh*t.
Screw ford!
Thank you! I bought a 2020 ford escape 2 nights ago and got a $3000 discount off the price due to the door. I watched your video before the purchase so I knew what i was up againts. I went to home depot and bought $6 worth of stainless steels nuts and bolts and fixed the issue in just over an hour. The hardest part was getting my hands and a set of small plyers in the door to hold the nuts while i tightened the bolts
czcams.com/users/shortsbdtIbkrYQtk?si=ta9nOwvJ5i9Y2h98
GOOD FOR YOU!!!! Glad I could help!!!
This happened to mine. 2020 with broken welds. Sent this video to my mechanic friend and he said he can do this for me. I’d easily pay a few hundred to him rather than a few thousand to ford.
Glad to help
Hello, so the good news is Ford issued a recall on this door problem. The bad news is because the door check did break off in the first place, it did have to be taken to the shop. Fortunately, I've got a free rental.
Thank you sooo much for this video! Luckily I caught it before it completely broke off. The door started making those popping noises as you describe so I did some research and found your video. 4 of the welds broke, but 2 of them were still intact. This allowed me to make the repair without taking the door apart! I used the large 3/16 steel rivets as you described, but I did not use washers. Hopefully this will hold. I'll keep an eye on it and if I need to redo it with washers, I will.
Thanks again! This was a great video!
Glad I could help. Good for you for researching it so you could make the fix without the door card off
Just had this issue occur. Thanks so much for the video!
Was an easy fix. Be sure to use the large head STEEL rivets I noted in the description. The aluminum ones I used first came loose
What did the part cost? I have to do this to my car as well but I'm afraid it's already jacked my window
@@m_1737 the closer was about 35.00
Thank you so much! This just happened to my 2020 Escape and it's out of warranty.
Glad I could help. I get so much good information and instructions from CZcams that when I do something I think might help others…. I post for their review.
@Kenspurr9605 I have a late late model 2019 escape, experienced the same issue with spot welds failing, on the rear lift gate latch support bracket @58kmiles from intergainual corrosion from improper spot welds, was told by Ford warranty administrator yes I'm right that the door need to be addressed but they won't cover it because intergainual corrosion is not in there manual. And wanted me to folk out 3200 for their manufacturing mistake.
Okay the good news is that this did work. So I do praise you for saving me $4k - $5k on a new door. The bad news is that the window stops midway through rolling down. Also the door lock does not move even though the door locks and unlock. I must've put the white piece behind the door back on wrong.
My wife's escape just had the same thing occur. The three spot welds broke just after she got the car back from a recall for the battery. Someone told me that Ford and all of the other American manufacturers are having manufacturing and assembly issues particularly during the COVID era.
Yes, it’s a common problem
thanks for taking the time to explain your repairs.
@@666dynomax glad I could help!
Ford now has a recall/service bulletin you might check out? The info was added to the video description. Tim
Tim thank you for posting that video I was able to catch our bracket before busted completely loose and thanks to you I knew how to do it I put four rivets on the face of the door, three on the edge thanks buddy
Glad to help! Good for you for catching it early, males it an easier repair. Did you use the STEEL rivets I posted in the description? Aluminum ones wore out in a month.
Yes,steel rivets
1/4 grip,3/16 diameter, standard heads. Had to run to The hardware store for a more compact 90 for the edge rivets. My 90 drill was too deep to fit in the edge space. A 90 attachment 👍
@@wallaceanderson7145 it’s great when a plan comes together!
Thanks bud. That's what I was planning to do. Good to see we're ahead of it. This is BS.
Glad to help!
Tim, thanks for taking the time to detail your solution. Does Ford think the weak spot weld problem is limited to the drivers door only? My sister 2020 Escape has this problem. She has the Ford extended warranty. But the known door problem is not covered. If Ford won’t own their manufacturing problem, maybe time to stop buying Ford and start buying Toyota :(
I am not aware of any other door issues? Extended warranties usually do not cover body issues, only mechanical items. I was disappointed, but still like my Ford
Gonna have to do this to mine. Just noticed one of the spot welds failed today and my car is just out of warranty 😑
Do it asap to avoid more breaks and damage
Thanks for the video!!! The rear right door of my Ford Focus 2020 closes and opens with a different force applied (compared to the other three) and some strange sounds. Your video helped a lot in researching what could be the problem!
Thanks for the video! We had the drivers door fail and grt replaced and then fail again within 2 years. Now we are out of warranty and the passenger door failed too lol. Will be doing this asap.
Glad to help. With some basic skills, people have been telling me they get it done in about an hour. Good luck. Do it early before it messes up your window mechanism
Thank you for the video.. Ford actually just started sending out recalls for this problem they say they’re going to be reinforcing the doors or replace it free of charge but still love this video though
We did not have a right angle drill available so we removed the door to get to the three broken spot welds on the door edge. Repaired all with stainless steel rivets use a pneumatic riveter, sucked everything down extremely tight. Never had to remove the door card either. Start to finish about an hour to complete.
That’s great!!! I love it when a plan comes together
This just happened to mine. I will see what I can do to fix it fast! Thanks for the video!
Followed your instructions and only took me 45 minutes to do the repair.
That’s great, good for you. It’s a fairly simple repair with minimal skills and tools. Several of my viewers have used the video as a guide and made their own repairs at home and saved big $$’s. I think that’s one of the great things CZcams does!
watched this vid just now because it happened to me. thank you for this video. this is my job sunday to fix haha
Be sure to use the STEEL rivets I added in the description, they worked better than the aluminum I used at first. Its a pretty easy repair
Tim, this issue started with my 2020 Escape a month ago resulting in window issues and a trip to dealership with your CZcams loaded up on my laptop! The body shop manager called me later to confirm the spot welds had indeed failed, the bracket had shifted and broken the window mechanism. I have a tri-color paint (Persian Green) which brings my door replacement to a grand total of nearly $3,400, including the window. I am no mechanic, but am not afraid of elevating known issues up the Ford Customer Experience Specialist chain of command. Thought I'd add this information to your thread. Body shop manager said he handles 1 of these door limiter/bracket weld failing/electric window issues A WEEK, at least on this model when Ford changed the body style. I am out of warranty by 5,000 miles. Their solution is to offer to cover 60%...maybe...since I am a loyal Ford customer. The manager suggested this repair is often caused by doors being caught by the wind (and it can happen the first time) and being flung wide open suddenly. Possible comprehensive insurance claim in a couple cases he has seen where the issue was actually recognized immediately following a wind/door encounter. I also wish I had taken an auto body elective or two instead of French. 🙂Thank You!
Sorry to hear of your experience, I get that a lot. Its a really simple repair if its caught early.... you don't even have to take the door apart...just put a couple rivets in to replace the loose 1 or 2 broken spot welds. I have told my wife who also drives a 2020 Fusion to tell me right away if she hears a funny noise in the door! But unfortunately no one goes looking for my video until its too late. A suggestion I might make it to show my video to a friend or relative who has some mechanical skills and tools, perhaps they can do the repair for you? Otherwise show the video to a small/independent shop (dealerships wont do a repair, only replace) and see if they would do the repair. It takes less than 2 hours and is simple if you have those skills and tools. Also if they don't want to use the rivets, #10 pan head machine screws with fender washers and locking nuts on the inside work just as well if they don't have a rivet tool. As far as an insurance claim...I am a retired Auto Damage Insurance Adjuster (20+ years) and suspect most carriers would deny this claim since you could not prove 100% where/when the wind caught it? Also if they investigate the claim at all, they will easily find out this is a very common problem for Ford and not a comprehensive loss? I hope you can find someone to make your repairs and save 3k+. Tim
Also…..it does not need to be a small independent BODY shop, a MECHANICAL shop could do this job also. Any tech who could replace a power window motor or switch could do this job. There is a small mom and pop near me that would take on this repair no problem. I’d suggest showing them my video so they know how easy it can be. Hope all goes well for you. Tim
@@timthetoolman4575 Thanks, Tim! I think I will go pick up my car and do just that! It occurred to me that a new door is wonderful, but unless it comes with a different way of Ford installing that bracket and limiter arm - would I not run the risk of this re-occurring at some future point anyway?
@@pamreihs2771 I agree, Ford told me my new door has “better” spot welds? I soon will be out of warranties and after that …if I hear even the slightest pop or click from the door…. I will be doing a preventative repair right away before any additional welds break
Just picked my car up yesterday as this happened to me but mine broke so I needed to do a whole new door through warranty. Took about 2 weeks for the door to come in and another week to get it back. But now my window isn’t working right.
They replaced mine under warranty as well, but weren’t sure how long it would be to get a door, so I made the repair. That way if it happens again out of warranty, I have an idea how best to repair and save the $2500-$3000 out of pocket cost. I also thought there are people out there who are out of warranty and might like to know what they need to do a DIY repair. Thanks for watching
Thank you. You are a life saver!!! I thought I had to weld it back together.
Glad to help. I actually think the rivets have more hold than the spot welds. Just be sure to use the STEEL rivets I list in the description rather than aluminum ones. Good luck on your repair
@@timthetoolman4575 yes sir. We have a rivet gun at my shop so I don't have to get one
This just happened to mine the other day I can still open and close the door though I will be removing the door check when I can and rivet the bracket in place like you did. How long did the rivets hold up? I'm hoping there will be a class action lawsuit soon with this issue.
I would do it as soon as you can to prevent more damage. The aluminum rivets came loose in a month or so, so be sure to use the STEEL rivets I list in the description. I used those with a fender washer on the inside and out to get more holding power. That worked out good
do you think the popping issue and window issue (mine can roll up and down but behaves unexpectedly sometimes) would cause the Escape to fail an inspection? I don't believe there are any OBD-II error codes associated with this issue, so I just wonder about the popping.
Sorry, I can not say what might fail an inspection? Mine started “popping “ and failed a few days later
Little late here, but we just had ours inspected in Oct. Guy said as long as you can open and close the door, you're good. Need safe egress.
Such a easy fix. Ford needs to just issue a damn recall and save people thousands of dollars. This would be like $2 in rivets and 2 hrs of labor.
Thanks for posting this video, extremely helpful. I will be using this as a guide when I attempt to fix my mom's Escape. It has this same issue. I already purchased the part and should have the tools. You mentioned potentially using screws instead of rivets, if so what size screws? Thanks so much in advance. In all honesty, once I get this fixed, I may just look into getting the car traded in for a CR-V or HR-V, this car has had 3 recalls in the last three years of ownership and now the door issue. The dealership I went to with this issue was completely unresponsive and kept telling me they will call me back to schedule an appointment for a fix. Ended up having to call the service tech three times and still no response from them. Anyway, as mentioned thanks so much for the video.
Use #10 pan head machine screws. Then on the inside put a #10 fender washer on each screw and some type of self locking nut so it does not vibrate loose. A pan head screw has a larger head …..even bigger than the large head rivets I bought. The bigger head… and the fender washers help to “spread out” the pressure that’s gets applied to the door and bracket when the door opens and closes on the door check/limiter. That pressure applied to the tiny spot welds is what broke the factory spot welds loose.
Clarification. Screws would be #10 diameter by 3/4 length. If you use rivets, be sure and use the LARGE head STEEL rivets I mention in the description. The ALUMINUM ones I used 1st did not hold up to the pressure
Do you have a seaparate video on how to replace the window regulator? The door check that snapped caused the window regulator to not work properly anymore.
Sorry I do not. I caught mine before it damaged any other parts
How can i just reenforce the welds? If i pop that speaker off, could i just reach it with a mig gun?
Would probably be hard to see and get your gun inside? Another shop video I watched on CZcams doing the repair said he thinks the door metal is to thin and the welds “pull out” of the thin door metal rather than the welds failing?
Will this help the door window move smoothly? Cause my window is having issues due to the rivets.
Yes IF the door welds are broke, then the loose bracket can interfere with the window. But if the door welds are good, you may have a window only issue?
@@timthetoolman4575 no it's the hinge check that is the issue
@@StephenPhillips then this is likely your issue and the needed repair
Hey there how you doing did your new door did you get it yet and did it break already yet cuz my new door broke already it's the same cheap thin metal and then my passenger door broke
Yes I did get the new “improved “ door. Dealer could not say what they improved? But it’s been fine so far.
BUT….. if I get ANY noise at all, I will be installing additional STEEL rivets right away. I took photos and measurements on the old door so I could place them properly if ever needed
Although the pop rivets are a quicker, less hassle of a fix, I would rather spend a bit more time (and frustration) going a stainless steel bolt and nylock nut. I guess the newer Escapes have bolts in this space now, in addition to the welds. I called my local dealer to have other recalls done and he said he has done about 4 of these in the past couple of years, some they replaced the door and some they "fashioned other means to a repair". (which leads me to believe they bolted the mounts back onto the ripped out spot welds.
Sounds like if you let the wind catch the door, expect this to be an issue. Mine personally looks good and no sound, but I may add some bolts as a preventative measure to avoid the issue from ever happening. There are others on forums that have done this fix and it seems like a bolt (although not as nice looking) is going to be a better hold. The idea of using larger washer to hold on more metal would also be advised. Once you have stressed this metal it will only be easier to rip the bolt/nut through the already weakened area.
You are correct. When I drilled out the ALUMINUM rivets I used the first time and replaced with STEEl rivets , I also went ahead and added some #10 machine screws with fender washers and nylock nuts just to be sure. Yes, it did not look as good… but my goal was a sturdy repair rather than looks.
The machine screws I used were the larger pan head for a better hold
@@timthetoolman4575 I just checked my door and there is a very slight sound when it opens all the way (when the stop engages) and a similar sound when pushing it slowly shut. I can't tell for sure if it is the unit clicking or spot welds making noise. They look okay and no paint deformation, and it is near impossible to tell if it is the black link unit or metal fatigue. I think at this point I will push the dealership, who I have appointment next Friday to do other warranty repairs, to see if a repair would be covered by warranty and if not I will definitely do the reinforcement now. If they welds don't fail then I will just have a few ugly screws/rivet showing.
@@frankcastle2814 I told my wife if she hears ANY noise, let me know and I will immediately put in rivets and avoid the door disassembly. Good luck
I’m having the same issue with my door. Unfortunately it’s not under warranty anymore. And I don’t have thousands of dollars to pay for it. Could you help me out?
It does not have to go to a body shop. It’s an easy repair at home with some basic tools and skills. Otherwise any shop that could do something simple like replacing a window motor could do this repair. Show them my video
How's your window? I just fixed a 2020 escape where that reinforcement place was completely out, and the window track also ripped from the door shell.
My window was fine. Once the welds broke, I cut the limiter arm so I could close the door and drive the car. Luckily mine broke at home where I had tools. I suspect that if a person forces the door to close…. That bracket that’s flopping around inside the door could then damage the window mechanism? I see a lot of people having that problem after the limiter bracket welds break? Just a guess on my part.
@timthetoolman4575 that's good to hear. I assume that the wind caught the door, and then the owner shut the door real hard, causing the reinforcement plate to go past the window track and it's bracket, then when the owner opened the door it caught on the track and ripped it off, bending it 3 inches forward while twisting it causing the track to kink and make resistance for the window while it went up and down. It took 8 nuts and bolts to put everything back together.
@@MrAnimefox it’s unfortunate when your away from home with no tools. Does not leave you with much choice but to force the door closed to get home or to a shop. That does more damage
Hi Tim, I noticed at the end of your video when you was demonstrating the door open and close I believe I still heard a clicking noise. Can you give a brief explanation of that clicking noise that's what mine is doing I haven't done any repairs yet. Thanks.
That’s how it starts
Yes, the clicking was because I had not made sure the rivets were fully seated and TIGHT. A couple were still a little loose and I could see them moving slightly when I opened and closed the door. I immediately replaced them and made sure they were seated and tight, that fixed it.
If yours is making noise… that means some of the welds are loose or broke and it will get bad fast! I would get to the repair as soon as you can, it will make less work. I told my wife if her 2020 Fusion makes ….any…. Noise, let me know. If caught early, you might be able to just replace a weld or 2 with rivets and avoid talking the door apart to make the repair?
Use the large head STEEL rivets I list in the description, the aluminum ones worked loose after 3-4 weeks
@@timthetoolman4575 Thanks
So, I was able to get the window functioning again after riveting the housing back to the door. Thank you Tim. The only issue now is that horrible buckling / clacking sound when I open the door? I wonder if I need to order a new check arm assembly after all?
First check to see that all the rivets are tight. I had 2 that I did not get completely squeezed/tight and when I looked at them as I opened and closed the door, I could see them move just slightly, that was my noise. You may hear it at the end of my video when I am opening and closing. I replaced those two and no clacking sound anymore.
So I bought one of those large riveting tools. The kind that have long arms like bolt cutters. Even using that, there is some play in the rivet. Where exactly am I putting the washer? I was putting it on the fatter 3/16th side. So when I insert the fat end of the rivet, it goes through the hole in the door then through the hole where the spot weld was on the bracket, and I was putting the washer there. Without moving the door at all, I can move the rivet with my fingers after it clamps down?
@@charlesparell5597 the rivets I list in the description have a larger head than normal, so no washer needed on the OUTSIDE of the door. The fender washer goes INSIDE the door cavity. Also need to make sure the head of the tool is pushed tight against the door/rivet head when squeezing it. You may have to squeeze it partially and then may be able to push the tool down even further on the rivet? The larger tool may not work as well since the longer handles may hit the cars A pillar and not allow you to keep the tool pushed all the way on the rivet while squeezing it? That’s imperative to get the rivets tight. The 90 degree rivet tool gives plenty of room to keep it tight against the rivets while squeezing.Let me know
@@timthetoolman4575 Washer directly inside the door cavity? That would place it between the door metal and the door check's metal housing correct? As opposed to how I did it? Where I have the door metal, then the door check housing (where I drilled out the spot welds then the washer, correct?
@@charlesparell5597 rivet would go through the door frame…..then through the bracket…..then through the fender washer. That way when you squeeze the rivet, it pulls the washer tight against the bracket which pulls the bracket tight against the inside door panel.
Mine too. Thanks for video
Mine did the same thing, I guess this is a common issue in this model and ford should have a recall but don't have one
Yes, it’s a problem but likely wont get a recall? Recalls are normally only issued for “safety “ related items that can cause injury or death. In this case it just makes the car inoperable, but not unsafe?
Hi I just got the same problem with my car. Did you have any problems after you cut the rod off for a temporary solution. The bracket didn't fall into the window or anything? I need my car daily for work so I have to be able to drive it before I can get to doing the repair the right way and are the rivets still holding up well for you
Rather than cut the rod, you can remove the 1 bolt from the car side and 2 bolts from the door side and push the rod into the door cavity and it should easily fall to the bottom and not interfere with the window
Be sure to use the STEEL rivets I list in the description, the aluminum ones came loose after a few weeks
Just to clarify, door opening/closing makes giant clacking noise at every "stop." This is the beginning of the issue, since the bracket is shifting and moving around? So, you're saying before it lets loose, just getting it secure with the rivets or screws WILL SILENCE the clacking?
YES, that’s how it starts, and quickly gets worse a breaks. You can probably look at the spot weld head while moving the door and see them moving. Getting rivets or screws In right away can hopefully fix it before it breaks
Be sure and check the spot welds under the weather strip as well!
@@timthetoolman4575 Do you mean in the door jam part (corner) ?
Watched that part again. Yes, you do! :)
BTW, the dealer said Ford would pitch in and new door would be $700-$750. That still stings...(out of warranty)
What tools do I need to remove the panel?
There are a couple of real good videos on CZcams showing the tools and procedures to remove the panel, so I did not include them in mine
Is there a recall ?? This just happened to mine and they want $6000
None that I’m aware of? Recalls are usually for “safety “ items only. Ford and the government probably don’t consider this a safety item since it likely would never cause a car accident
I'm going to follow this process. I have the same riveting tool you have but I'll get steel rivets. Do you have a preferred link on how to get the door panel off and back on?
I bought LARGE head steel rivets (linked in description)and #10 fender washers on the inside for a better hold. Sorry, I don’t have the links, but there were 2 on CZcams that made it simple
@@timthetoolman4575 Did you buy the part directly from ford?
@@charlesparell5597 yes, I think it was 30-35 dollars? Only needed it since I cut the old one…. But you can unbolt the limiter from the frame and door and drop it inside the door until you can make the repair and avoid the parts cost
@@timthetoolman4575 I'll be attempting this repair this week. I'll reuse the original part. Wish me luck!
Also it seems like #10 washers vary from one maker to the next? Any size or make so I can get the proper ones?
Having possibly the same issue. Did anyone else tho notice random issues with the power window rolling down all the way?
I think when the welds break, the bracket can move into a position where it interferes with the window regulator?
Yes!!!
How do we fix that?
Once the bracket is riveted back in the proper position, it should no longer interfere with the regulator
Man this just happened to mine like a month ago and it messed up my window to where it won't go down
It’s actually a pretty easy fix if you have some basic skills and tools. Hope all goes well for you. Be sure and get the STEEL rivets I linked in the description
Hello I need help I have a 2020 ford escape and trying to take off door panel and not able to need to replace mirror
There are 2 very good CZcams videos on how to remove the door panel.
@@timthetoolman4575 are they on your videos
@@anitaramirez2477 no . I found them when I searched CZcams for escape door panel removal. They were posted by others
Thank you
whats the part number ?
@@kenlyrecinos9001 the only part I had to buy was the limiter that I had cut so I could keep driving the car. For the repair, I reused the same part
Taking too long .....