Why your PWM runs at MAX speed...
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- Here are the several ways a PWM pump can be setup so that it will only run at maximum speed, and the ways you set it up properly to regain full control!
Too many times I've seen forum posts with people claiming their pump is broken, when it turns out they didn't set it up properly. So this video plans to put that right (for most people) and it should teach you a thing or two in the process...
Music Credits:
"Wallpaper" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons...
"District Four" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons...
"Cipher" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons...
Nice video. Very few liquid cooling pumps can be properly controlled by the PWM feature on your motherboard. First, most DC pumps on the market are not designed for it, and second, nor or any motherboards. Thus, you have two real choices to speed control a 12V DC pump in your rig. First, if your motherboard supports it, you can switch from PWW to voltage control (which is what the two-pin trick does, forcing your mobo to run in DC/voltage mode). Once in DC control mode, it will allow you to taper the voltage down to 7V (the typical minimum for most mobos), which if the pump can run this low, it will slow it down dramatically. Voltage control of a pump is just as limited as voltage controlling a case fan so don't expect a lot of granular control. Or, you can buy a separate PWM motor controller and use it to control the pump, which is what I've done. This will allow you 0-100% control (roughly). It does require some DIY skills that are on the moderate to high side. You'll want to take 12V off your PSU Molex and run that to the controller, which will require creating leads and wiring them to the correct input on the controller. You then have to connect your pump to your controller output, which often requires manipulating another Molex or 3-pin header. I simply salvaged the parts from old case fans since many come with both a male/female Molex and a female 3-pin header. I use the PWM controller for a couple of reasons. You can run at around 100% (high flow) to purge entrapped air and then slow it way down as high flow rates are not neccessary at all. Lower the speed will lower the heat load on your pump motor, extending lifespan (theoretically) and reduce noise (theoretically).
I am getting ready to do my first custom water cooling system. I found your vid very useful. keep up the good work:)
Video can be summarized to wrong fan header or wrong header setting in BIOS. The header needs to be 4 PIN FAN HEADER set to PWM in BIOS or 4 PIN PUMP HEADER. Keep in mind that PWM mode headers provide constant 12V and the device connected to the header takes the full 12V but modulates that down based on a digital signal, the PWM signal. That's the only way your PUMP or FAN will actually run slower. If the header is set to PWM and you have no PWM signaling, it runs at 100%.
Man, thank you so much, you just saved me an RMA. I wouldn't have thought that the speed control would be on different pins for different headers. Turns out the CPU_FAN had the sc on the 4th pin and the CPU_OPT has it on the second. Thanks again man! Glad I found your video
thank you for this video, i havent ran into this problem but youve been a good help to people who do have the problem. you explained it well
Finally! Thanks to you i finally figure it out.
I hope this gets read, but you seem to be awesome at actually reading comments. This might also be useful if anyone else stumbles across.
Fan speed can either be controlled with Voltage or PWM. Side note, pin 3 is what tells the motherboard the RPM of the device.
In voltage mode, you are correct with pin 4 doing nothing. But fan speed can still be controlled with pin 2. Pin 2 simply changes voltage...the more voltage, the faster the fan spins, fairly straight forward I think. Typically under 5 volts the fan stops, up to the maximum rating of 12 volts. In this instance the fan can only run "so slow" before it stops running completely.
When the motherboard header is in PWM (Pulse-width modulation) mode a constant 12 Volts is sent across pin 2. A fan gets the constant 12V power, but can be regulated in pulses by pin 4. The quicker the pulse, the more over overall power the fan receives. Since it is getting the full 12V (when it has power) the fan can typically run slower then the direct voltage mode, resulting in a quieter performance.
Pumps don't have a pin 2. Thus they receive no power (from the motherboard) and since they receive no power, no need for a pin 1 ground. They only have a pin 3 and 4. They can report their RPM and receive the PWM signal. Rather they get their power through the 12V molex connection. The pulses will regulate the molex. Without the PWM pulses it will go to its default state (usually full power, but might have another default configuration). Looking at your hub, you can indeed see that it will not receive the PWM signal.
One might be thinking, both molex and the motherboard send 12 volts, why not just run the whole thing off the motherboard header. If so, good question and it comes down to Amps. A typical MB header shouldn't surpass 1 Amp. Doing a quick search on EKWB a ddc pump showed 18 watts, and a d5 pump showed 23 watts. The formula for determining Amps is Amps = power / voltage. A typical pump would pull 1.5+ Amps and could possibly short out the header. Some headers could probably pull that Amps for awhile, but could just as easily burn out. Some pumps could also pull as much as 3 Amps. A typical molex connection is rated for 11 Amps, and running it through our handy formula comes out with a maximum 132 watts of power. More then enough. I actually tried to find a pump that used 12 watts and could be powered strictly from the header, alas I could not find one.
On another note, it looks like you might be dangerously close to maxing out that CPU header as is with those fans. Each of them is rated at .18A giving you a total of .9A. One more would be over the usual rated limit (though, chances are you would be ok). While I would trust this rating, I would also attempt to lower the total Amp being pulled through one header if I could.
-Is there a reason you don't use the system fan headers on your motherboard? You have two of them on that board. I'm not even sure it makes sense to use the CPU header for the case fans, just from a cable management standpoint you need to run more wires across your motherboard (to the generally centrally located CPU fan header) rather then the system fan headers which are located near the right/bottom edge. Just put the pump on the CPU fan header by itself. Then you don't even need to use the header splitter cable here in this case, I am not sure it serves a good purpose, though I might be missing something. If it were me with a motherboard with 2 system headers, I would normally try to put the intakes on one of then and the exhausts on the other. Using this setup you could also set different fan/power curves for each set of devices. One for each header which in this instance would be CPU pump, exhaust fans, intake fans. You could make a case for just using one system fan header with the hub for simplicity. You could use the hub for the intakes and the splitter for exhausts as a simple example.-
Edit - Watched the video more carefully this time. You mentioned that the system headers aren't PWM. -They are both PWM as well as direct volatage, and can be configured in the bios. The manual just showed the pinout for both configurations just in case.-
Edit2 - I lied, I was looking at the wrong MSI manual, newer motherboards can switch modes but apparently the Z170 may not be able to. You did it correctly :) Though it may be worth checking the bios directly just in case it was enabled through an update, but i doubt it... I have no idea why there is the 4th pin if it literally can't use PWM mode... marketing?
Excellent breakdown of the header pins, and PWM for that matter, a really good read. I do believe that this motherboard has the functionality between PWM and DC, but the "PWM" mode seems to be a bit off. It would appear it can only support anything above semi-slow speed, but it will stall the fan is it goes down to a speed as slow as what a true PWM header can support.
So I think it's adding some interesting functionality, but it seems to be a more controllable version of DC, than true PWM.
The Molex power breakdown shows why Molex is still a thing. And on the note of potentially maxing out the CPU fan header, the hub is running off a SATA power connector, and is getting some power as well as the PWM signal, and the speed if of course being relayed back to the motherboard. So the main voltage and amperage required is coming from the PSU.
Anyway, that's an excellent breakdown of fan and pump related power methods, and is certainly worth reading for those getting into this, as well those who have only been working on this for a while like myself. I definitely need to update videos like this one in the future. I'm currently working on a video that is similar to this and will be going into all the parts of water-cooling, but in a more general sense rather than a fully in depth one. We'll have to jump between in depth and more casual overviews of these topics.
I have a million questions about PWM fans and pumps thanks that clears up alot
just a bit of advice, when your demonstarting the volume of the pump etc could you turn the music off, music is not really needed in your vids i dont think, would make it a lot clearer on what your saying or doing
I don’t have an aio but I put one of my case fan cables into the aio pump header, and omg it was so loud running at 100%
Man,
I don’t think you have your PWM connected... you talk at full speed🤣.
Great tutorial!!!
I found your video very useful.You save me from the awful sound from my pump.
TLDR; "check that your fan header is truly PWM & connect your fans properly" great content for 21 minutes :/
So, do you plug pump into MOB Pump header or CPU Fan header? If one plugs into Pump header, does one need to plug a fan into CPU Fan header?
thank you looked everywhere for an explanation for what\how the two wires are used that come out of the pump. this information wasn't even in the instructions. thanks again!
dude, thank you, mine is a z490 gaming carbon wifi,. looked up specs and.....cpu fan is auto, pump fan 1 is pwm, fan 1-6 is default set to dc mode, all i need to do is set the rest to pwm mode
I deliberately run my pump at 100% for maximum cooling from pump to rad to CPU to GPU to rad 2 then pump again. CPU while gaming 36C and GPU while gaming 33C Averaging... My PC runs full with 0% throttling. 2 240 EK copper rads with push pull fans, 1 D5 140 pump, 1 EK CPU copper block, and 1 EK GPU copper block.... worth every penny. these pumps have a crazy life span not bothered one bit if it will fail. I do want the RGB version thou i may upgrade to that to get the RGB =]]. current set up been running 100% for 2 years so far keep your fluid clean and you good to go. flush once a year I recommend Mayhem fluid its good for 18 months in use. i change it every year flow stays great no build up in my system. Do not use pastels or particle coolant that will settle after a while and is kinda a pain to clean out. Stay with transparent coolants any color you like.
Thanks for another "straight forward no nonsense" video.
Though You could possibly been even a bit more "categorical" ((after Your demonstration)) and basically "boiled it down to" that what You need to CONTROL the speed is "PIN#4 with a working PWM-signal", and then to be able to "see"/read the "speed" of the pump You need a working sense-Pin#3"
I think this might be "worth" mentioning because there are "many ways" to provide these, for instance despite Your "text overlay" there are actually HUBs that have that functionality (And if I'm not mistaken Your own hub has 1PWM-header. The one that "passes and reads " the "CPU-fan-signal" ) So You could use that to, should You so choose.
What I mean is that essence there are to many "possible combinations" of motherboards and "peripherals" to describe that can solve this, but if it doesn't work it is because either You don't have PWM on "pin#4" or You get the wrong reading because of "pin#3" (or Your pump is broken, (or doesn't have PWM ;)
Anywhoo just a thought, keep up the good work.
Best regards.
So this problem only occurs on motherboards that don't have a dedicated "AIO pump"-header, right?
Anyways, the bigger problem that I have not seen an easy fix for, is that even if you can control the pump via the curve in the BIOS, there's no way to set the maximum pump speed to less than 100%. This is so stupid. No matter how flat you make the curve, on high CPU-loads the pump will whine up to 100% :(
how do you make thee pumps run just on 12 volts voltage please no computer involved at all? Tx
My Rosewell aio came with a connector that plugged into one of the power supply cables, ran on 12 volts. Get you a adapter with a fan plug/aio plug and plug it into your power supply. Benifits - pump turns on immidiately at power up instead of waiting for the bios to load up for 5-6 seconds before it kicks on with motherboard headers
Thanks, I have a dd3 PMW ane I plan to water cool my PC. I imagine that the pump would just jun like mad. However, looking at your video, this pro tip will help. Thanks
Thank you for this it has be helpful as I did not realize that all 4 pin motherboard headers are not the same
Nice Video Man.tell me should I if my pump into CPU opt..or CPU..at the moment I have pump in CPU opt and radiator fans in CPU header?? BTW the pump stays at 100 percent however the fans can be adjusted slightly...
Great video, ran into this issue with my new motherboard. Happened to have a 4pin splitter laying around.
I have mine plugged into a PWM 4 pin but it's not reading in the BIOS? Idk why. Any help will be appreciated.
👍 good job
Thanks for this video. I even have this issue on my ROG B550 motherboard. It has a AIO header that will control fans just fine and give a readout but my pump does not say the speed. Put it on the CPU one and I could definitely tell the pump slowed down because at idle it was running warmer. I even configured the AIO header for the PWM pump (exact same pump that you’re using) and it still didn’t work right even though it’s supposed to off that header. My pump gives no RPM values which is what that four pin coming off the pump is supposed to do for controlling the speed. EK says it’s fine leaving the pump at full speed. I have another computer with an AIO in it so I think I’m just going to plug that right into my motherboard and see what it does, because it controls a fan I think I have a bad resistor in my pump that tells the speed. Or I just have something weird going on lol.
heya. with a D5 pump I have 2 cables. Question: one must go for the CPU port in the motherboard and the other where it go?
Hey, the other cable is a Molex connector with only two pins. This connects to a Molex connector directly from the PSU. The power for the pump comes from the PSU, and the control comes from the motherboard.
Great Video,
I am planning on changing from an Aio to a custom loop as I like the look & this has given me more info on setting it up correctly,
I watch a lot of JayzTwoCents videos & yours have been recommended in the side bar so I have watched a few,
You give lots of good details, keep up the good work
Hello, I liked the video , but how can I manage the pump in an independent way from the fans ??
will this work on aio cooler too? i have a castle 360ex same problem?
Good demonstration bruh
Really good video and production, agree the music could be a tad lower but otherwise well explained
hi
I have MSI MAG CoreLiquid 360R ARGB 360mm
On my motherboard I have AIO Pump connector (that is where i connected) did i do right
My motherboard is Asus Prime X570-P AMD X570 Soket AM4 DDR4 4400(OC)MHz ATX Gaming
My AIO pump turns full speed 4000 rpm
How can i lower the Aio pump speed
I couldnt do on bios
Hey bro u look so much like Ivar the great from Vikings!!
Friend please tell me how use a pwm pump at full speed. I use this pump in a loop without a pc and the flow indocaator is slow.
AV.techy
My Thermaltake D5 pump only has molex connection, it is quite loud. Is there anyway I can control voltage with an adapter or something? Help would be much appreciated!
Hmm, not sure about that. In theory if you cut the voltage it should reduce the speed. But I'm no electrologician so im not sure if that'll impact amperage at all.
Worth looking into, I think there's something you can do there, but a step down transformer or buck converter might be a bulkyish solution.
Thanks for the reply I’ll look into it.
Does it work with corsair commander ?
I'm so confused, so why couldn't I just plug this into a fan hub? As I wanted to plug my fans into my thermaltake commander and also plug the pump into it.
It's all about ensuring the pump.is getting a signal though that 4th pin. As long as the hub provides a signal through the 4th pin (having a 4th pin doesn't ensure there's a signal going through there) then it's completely fine.
What if I buy a four pin pump will it work
There is a way to fix the speed at 100% without a motherboard? Like... Short the wires??? Just to run at max speed without have to connect the small conector?
I think you missed the point of this video...
@@AVTechy I'm not talking about the video... Just trying have someone to answer this question for me... I did not found a answer...
I wouldn't really recommend putting the pump into the cpu fan header if using a compatible pwm mobo! don't want it ramping up and down constantly.
I see where you're coming from. Unfortunately on many motherboards like the one in this video, there aren't any other PWM headers available, and the pump won't play ball on the DC headers. So the CPU fan header is the only available option.
But I think what you were suggesting is that there are motherboards with other PWM headers, like the OPT header on enthusiast boards. That would definitely be worth using to keep the pump at a constant speed.
I'm going to try get my hands on many other pump types in the future and have a good play around with all the PWM madness to see what is the most compatible pump option available.
But if the CPU fan header is the only available PWM header, then the pump speed ramping up and down is just an unfortunate necessity.
Good points made, a constant speed is certainly preferable.
the MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon has a pump port... would that be a good board? gracias!
@@AVTechy I see so in order to control de pump and the fans separated we need to check that the mobo that we are getting has more than one pwm header on it . right ?? or get one vario one that has 5 speed set up
Yeah that's the default recommendation. You can play around with splitters, but that has various levels of success. Your always better off having a dedicated PWM header for the pump, and whatever control you fancy for the fan (they can run on DC control but have a higher low RPM limit.
Question I want to add a water cooling system on my remote access hiveos mining rig. Does anyone know how I can do this? I only have HiveOs on the 12 gpu mining rig. I control it through my laptop remotely. Any ideas?
Just one big question, when i want to setup for the first time.. i want to run the pump without starting the motherboard, to test leak, run it like 24 hour to get air bubble out of system before actually plug 24p to motherboard... now, what to do?
+koford You can do a 24 hour test if you want to, but personally it's not something I've ever done. Just for clarity I'm going to run through the whole filling process just to make sure nothing is missed out.
So, first off with the filling. Generally it's best to do quite a lot of the work upfront to make sure there is as little air in the system as possible, as there are some areas the air can get "trapped" and the pump alone will struggle to displace it. Being as safe as possible you can lean the case side to side with the pump running disconnected from the motherboard with the jumper unit attached (just make sure there is always liquid flowing into the pump), or you can even disconnect the power and close the loop a few times to tumble the case and get the air into the reservoir before filling again.
Once you're confident there is very little air left in the loop you can then turn off the PSU, and close the loop by disconnecting/closing all fill ports to turn the loop into how it will run everyday.
Then you can remove the jumper unit from the PSUs 24-pin cable, and plug the PSUs 24-pin connector straight into the motherboard. Then connect all your cables to the rear IO as you would usually have them connected. And make sure the pumps PWM fan connector is connected to a PWM fan header.
Once that's all done you can power your system on, and you'll be good to run it as normal.
You can optionally test the system for an extended period of time, but it's not something I personally do. I just run the system for 5 minutes after filling and look out for any leaks. But it's not something I'll tell you not to do, it will always be safer of give the system a good few hours with the pump running and the loop closed to test for leaks. However, there will always be more chance of leaks forming once the system is running normally and heat it being applied to the loop. So keep looking out for leaks for the first few days when you're busing your system.
Anyway, you were pretty much there but I just wanted to confirm everything was sorted out before recommending anything else. I hope that's answered your question, if not feel free to message back with any other questions, I'll be more than happy to help out. Thanks for checking out the video, and best of luck with your system!
Thank you. Perfect explanation. Just pls. lower speed of your talking (forn non english speeker is hard to follow :) ).
This video is helpful.
Thx
I have question, can I connect PUMP in motherboard fan connector?
Yes, it's the only way it can be done on most budget to mid range boards. It's designed for that scenario. Pump connectors or CPU_OPT headers are just extra PWM headers earmarked for pumps on more expensive boards.
Good video, but I do not get the problem... Connect the plugs and wires as described and everything works fine? Molex for "high" power plus and ground, PWM plug with RPM and PWM signal. If you try to install a pump on your own you should understand the basics...
It's that not all 4pin headers are PWM compliant. And most people think they are.
Videos like this help us learn the basics. I have been building pc's since 1991, and have used some AIO's but full custom loops can still be scary. I think he did a great job..
You did not demonstrate the pump speed.
how many total fans did you power with the 1 cpu_fan header?
It all depends on your fans. A fan header will supply 1A, so if you have a fan that runs on 0.2A you can run up to 5 on that header (but you might want to leave some tolerance and go with 4).
However if you have a fan hub that runs on external power through a SATA connector (4.5A), you could run up to 22 fans (in theory), but I've not seen any hubs with that much support :P.
Best way to work it out is seeing what the amperage is of the fan you want, and divide 1A by that amperage to know how many fans you can run on a header.
Let me know if you run into any problems.
you should do this with a kraken x52 :) i would love it
Not only your pump is running on 100%....you speak to fast man
Can you answer a few questions if I provide my build?
I have a Asus 370 Hero X WiFi mobo and a photon x4 custom loop and Rez. I’ve been all through the bios and I can not tell anywhere in there that a pump is connected. I really can’t say how it’s doing or if it’s consistent, as some times the pump is noisy and others I wonder if it’s on.
@@specialfriendz4126 If it's linked to the CPU_OPT header it'll be controlled by the CPU_Fan Header.
If it's a 3 pin fan you may as well plug it into a SYS_FAN or CHA_FAN header and control the speed with a DC fan curve. Apparently there's not a massive amount of benefit to running the pump at a high speed, so you can set it to 30% for any temperature and create a fan curve to deal with the increase in thermals.
Let me know if you need to talk this over more.
@@AVTechy hello can I ask you a question? I changed motherboard, took an asrock steel legend, and initially the ek pump was fine, then suddenly the motherboard, it no longer finds it in the bios, it does not tell me where it is connected or the speed, N / A. since this happened, if I put the pump on standard speed, the water does not turn in the pump and you can clearly see that some bubbles that are still in the pipes (because I just filled the loop) instead of going forward it goes back, like if the pump has stopped turning, even when putting on performance, the same thing, and so the temperatures go up a lot. to make it work I have to put DC instead of Pwm. and put full power, otherwise it won't cool. my first thought was that the PWM control of the pump has broken because the bios no longer detects it. and also because if I unplug the 4pin and leave only molex the pump doesn't work. . I don't understand what it is. in a nutshell, I connect 4pin of the pump, and molex, in the bios the pump is N / A, it does not work in Pwm, neither at standard nor at quiet, nor at performance, only in full power in DC mode, and when it goes into DC it doesn't even seem to go very fast. In fact I had the gpu as a game temperature of 42 degrees, and now it reaches 56 in full power ... I ordered a new one because I think the pump is the problem ... in your opinion? thanks
@@AVTechy last question, when i fill the loop, do i have to connect only the molex? if I leave the 4 pin connected to the motherboard what happens? can I also fill the lopp by starting it with the 24 pin attached to the motherboard? always filling as it goes down?
Help, I just bought my first water cooling rig of someone on facebook market place.
It looks really nice but the only problem is the ekwb d5 pumb doesn't have a 4 pin fan header it has a 3. Isn't it suppose to have a 4 pin header for pwn control? When I go to my motherboard bios (asus z370) it wont let me change the speed of the pump, and yes I did plug it in to the "right header". I'm assuming I can't change it because the pumps plug is 3 and not 4. I don't know much about water cooling can someone help me out?
I've tried every fan header on my motherboard but no luck.
Damn.. sounds like you bought an old system. Current gen pumps are all PWM.
@@MadMexism like how old? He said the system was built in august. Looks like it too most of the other parts looks practically new.
Thanks, just the video i needed. +1 about the speed of speech you need to calm down ^^
You have to talk that fast when you talk so much...
That must've been annoying, pumps can get way too loud!
I have the alphacool eispumpe which is cool because it has speed dials on the back, molex power and a pwm controller that uses the setting on the back as a max value. I don't use it though, just have it on molex and setting 3/5.
Exactly what I did for my setup too, 1 less connection to manage at the same time
Yeah it's definitely something that can worry people when they first setup a water-cooling loop, I am a testament to that.
Hopefully this video gets around to those who don't understand they way pumps work, as most assume they would run the same as fans.
The Eispumpe's controller sounds great, I think having a static pump speed at a desired setting is a very useful feature. And considering ramping up the pump speed doesn't change the temperature much it's a good way to go!
I couldn't decide where the pump "fan" connector should go / should it go on the cpu header or should the fans go on there.
These vids are great, there's really not much helpful information out there.
Decided to Oc my gpu today. 2112mhz at 44 degrees after 4 hours of gaming. Cpu is at 22. With the fans barely audible, I love watercooling 🙄
Hello there, sorry I've been a little busy this weekend. I would have replied earlier but you know how things go...
In terms of where the pump fan header should go or where the case fan headers should go - it makes zero difference as long as they can get a true PWM signal (if the goal is PWM control that is).
I'm glad you found this video useful, I will be coming up with more that are hopefully as useful as this one is in the future. I think answering questions on a forum is all good and well, but having a lengthy video show all the possibilities and the correct way to achieve the desired goal is much more effective.
On the note of your overclocking, well done! Sound like a great overclock to me, up around 500+ Mhz? Those temps are so low as well, a high performance loop with low noise - sounds like you nailed it! Your spot on, water-cooling is awesome!
Thanks for keeping up with the videos, it's a real boost to have return viewers!
noice video
I played this at half speed
WHY would you NEED a splitter? Can't you just plugin the 2-wire 4-pin plug directly?
I've seen about 4 retracted comments from you so far. Just run the questions you're asking back to yourself and figure out why I've made the video this way.
Jayz2cents music? o.0
It is a very popular track that has featured in many of his videos. But in fairness I did stumble across the track when searching though the Incompotech website, and it's a nice little track so I thought I'd give it a shot.
But of course, it's not a good idea to overuse a track that someone else has popularly used (especially with the same style of video), so I only use this one rarely when there aren't many other suitable options available - or at least from the ones that I've come across.
Hope you found the video somewhat useful. At some point we'll get hold of a good few different pump types to see how they all fir in terms of connectivity. Anyway, hope you found it useful, and thanks for checking it out!
Great video non the less!
Thanks very much, really appreciate the support!
this is a long video for a short answer...
I tried watching this video three times just to confirm it can be put to the CPU header as I couldn't find an answer from google, and from the video, I could only follow until the second type of header he talked about, from then on camera was just swinging here and there, messy setup, lots of speaking. I clicked through it still couldn't find the answer end up to Ctrl+F "header" through the replies for the answer and bingo!
Thx but you talk too much
you speak very fast and your Music made it very difficult to understand you next time KILL your music