Modifications Every Owner Of An Echo CS-590 Chainsaw Should Do
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2024
- I pulled a brand new Echo CS-590 off the shelf and modified the muffler and then bumped the timing 6 degrees. Test cuts were done at each stage of modification and timed.
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Best mod for any saw is a sharp chain.
Indeed. Don't take the video to mean my chain wasn't sharp. I was cutting pressure-treated pine. It is super dense and gummy...
Thank you, captain obvious 👍
@@Icutmetal Not so obvious to some. My unmodded saw has outcut many modded saws just because they weren't running what I would consider to be a sharp chain.
@@brianquigley7336agreed! And a brand new 'fresh' chain ain't that sharp either.
Man, that saw went from Timber Wolf to Timber Beast! I have the 590, and I'll be getting the upgrades at some point. Thanks for this.
I had absolutely no idea that mod'ing your chainsaw was a thing. I've got a 59cc Tomber Wolf.. Thanks for sharing!
You bet!
The detail with explaining what you do, demonstrating how to perform the mods and the testing is so well done, I thought I was in a classroom. You could be a small engine instructor, that's how good you are, I'm very serious.
Thank you. I have been told this before. I like teaching.
Just sent my cs590 to Iowa Performance Saws and got a muffler mod done to it and had the limiters removed and had it tuned. It runs way better than it did, I'm impressed. I also put a O-ring inside my air filter to keep anything from getting inside the carb and I'm really satisfied with the good job Tim Baur did to my saw. Very happy! Idk why but it even starts better, took about 4 pulls before the work was done and now it starts in 2 pulls, fires on 1st pull everytime and starts on 2nd pull everytime
I have the best air filter seal mod here.... www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
The video quality is great. Good job on explaining everything..
Thank you!
Just ordered the flywheel key and air filter kit. Should be here monday. Cant wait to mod the muffler and install the parts to see how much it wakes the saw up. Thanks for the great video
I really enjoy your videos,thanks
Hi Matt, thanks for your help today with my CS620P. I'm already a subscriber. Love your channel.
Thanks for the sub!
An awesome mod is swapping the plastic handle for an aluminum one from a 620 echo. Otherwise if you're on a budget you can put on a stihl ms460 handle for about $44
Awesome review thanks, I like your videos
Awesome video as always,thanks
All good stuff! These are great saws with some tweaks
Yes they are!
@@mattr66 you got some awesome custom parts brother, I’ll be getting in touch with you soon.
Was looking to buy my first saw. Was trying to decide between Husq and Stihl. Was about to buy a Husq 450 because thats what they sell at Lowes and that is the closest hardware store to my house so I thought it would make it the most convenient for parts. Went to look at saws there and almost bought one but thought I'd do a little more research before pulling the trigger. Ace Hardware sells Stihls and Lowes sells Huskys so thought what does Home Depot sell? Echos. Looked them up on CZcams and people rave about them in videos and in the comments. Glad I walked out of Lowes without buying. Bought a 24" 590 later that night and it will be delivered in a few days.
Just got a killer deal on one of these saws brand new. Always been a Husky guy but this was to good a deal to pass up. Since it’s a two stroke I can’t help but want to modify it like I always did my dirt bikes. Think I’ll be buying a couple pieces from you in the near future. Thanks!!!
look here for some more improvements for the 590 www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
How does it compare to the Husky?
@@bluyetiinc7553 The biggest difference is your wallet is heavier after getting an Echo. 5 year warranty is also awesome.
I was really liking it but only barely got it broke in when I had a garage fire that took most of my tools the echo along with it. I think it would have been just as good as my old rancher if I would have been able
To run it more. I have some trees to get down this weekend so I am going to go see if I can find one at the local pawn shops.
Not worth it for me, but I Def don't knock anyone enjoying tuning engines or any hobby for that matter. We need people like this in society.
Great video! 🤩🤩
Thank you! 🤗
What a small world. Saw the gearhead decal and PSA decal and was like damn I probably know this guy. It's THE gearhead Matt. Ran your tunes back in the diesel days. Now I need chainsaw mods and come across this video. Hell yeah man.
Welcome Back.... what saw are you working on?
@@mattr66 CS-590. Just emailed you about some parts 👍
What are the upgrade numbers. I am at 3000 ft.
Ok here is a question. I’m having issues starting it. I put new gas and mix in. What else should I be doing. I haven’t used a chain saw in 10 years.
@@jsmith83400 once it is tuned correctly you choke it and pull till it pops once then push the choke in and then keep cranking. Once it fires, it will be on high idle and then blip the throttle after 5 seconds at high idle.
I showed this mod to my boyfriend and he loved it
If you won't show us how what's the point of watching just saying
I like the old fashioned separate on/off and choke controls. However, I would like to see a momentary kill switch so that the saw always returns to the run position. I can’t tell you how many times I forgot to turn the switch on. I now just immediately flip it back to the run position after stopping it.
I run saws a lot, and I like Echo’s simple controls better than Husqvarna for sure. Stihl is ok.
I'm going to try to find a momentary switch so that my 620 has the same manual-of-arms as my little 3510. That little baby has spoiled.
@@mattfleming86 You don’t like the 3510? The 50cc and up saws are pretty good all around for a decent price.
@@andybecker2693 No I LOVE my 3510. It is a brushing and limbing BEAST. It's my go to ATV saw when I'm on trails I havent been on in a while. I've fell and bucked several trees in the 10-14" range it just gets slow in the bar length stuff. Still chugs along with the right grind. Rightfully so it's a 35cc saw.. For what it is, it absolutely rips and I can brush for HOURS without my arms getting tired. We farm in wooded mountain areas so fences are a big deal. I have to carry saws up a mountain (along with fence tools) to do checks/repairs, it's absolutely worth the cut speed penalty to have a quite powerful little saw that weighs near nothing. Pound per pound it is the best saw I've ever had, and would have ZERO problem suggesting it as the best "little saw" a homeowner could own. That saw is the reason I have a 620p pending delivery. If it's of similar quality to the lil baby, it will be a felling and firewood monster. Im very excited.
@@mattfleming86 Awesome.. I have a little 2511t. It is a powerful little limbing saw and around 7lbs fully loaded and ready to go. Echo is way underrated. You’ll love that 620p for the bigger stuff. I settled for the 501p for a bigger saw and don’t regret it.
I bought and installed all of your mods, What is the starting point for both the high and low jets do you suggest before tuning?
Awesome! 👍✌🏻🇺🇸
Thanks 👍
What exactly was done to carb? Somehow missed that
If I do the cs-620p coil, then I would also do the 620p carb as well, it has a bigger center tube/ Venturie area for more power and fuel to air mix...
I just sold my 590 and bought a 620PW. I really can't see any benefit to all the time and money involved since the 620 has all these improvements out of the box with a valid 5 year warranty.
Same comment was going to say it would be cheaper to sell your saw and buy the 620, my brother has one that's ported and modded, she's loud and proud, it just screams for Mercy
The bigger carb on a stock port 590 doesn't help much. I actually like the smaller 590 carb on a fully ported saw with a nozzle change because it is more responsive vs the 620 carb.
@@gordonhenderson1965 is the 620 really that much more?
When you port a Echo Saw they turn into a beast. Red armor is the best oil
Where did you find the muffler mod to go on it where spark reflector is that fits it like that with a bigger opening on it? Man I've got alot to learn. I was going to have a whole complete muffler put on mine in Iowa for $100 and a tune but I have to ship it from Kentucky and still not sure what shipping charges will be
I will be selling them in a few weeks. They are in production currently.
I have a stock Timberwolf and would like to do a couple mods. I’m interested in purchasing a crank key and muffler cover.
www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
Great vid bud do you have links to the tools used ?
every torque wrench I find only goes up to 200 inch pounds not 220 inch like you said where did you find your torque wrench what brand is that? Is that a 3/8 drive?
Didn't know that gas lasted two years.. might be worth buying like you said last tank of the season. I run 40:1 in everything.. even my four stroke engines besides my car or truck
These will work with the 620 as well.
The muffler mod yes, but not the timing since the 620 coil already has a more advanced curve.
If you buy the 620p do you still need to do the mods or are they already done? Thanks in advance for your response.
Just doing the muffler mod with a few extra holes under the modified deflector or better yet, one of my billet deflectors, a 620 will make 85% of the power of a fully ported saw.
Also I live in aurora North Carolina and I’m trying to find a place to buy a echo 590 from that can also tune it for me. Any ideas where the best place to go would be? Hoping you might be willing to google echo dealers near aurora NC and tell me which place u think would be best to deal with.
Just wondering if you have used little red barn pop up piston on the echo cs590? And if so how well does it perform? Is it worth it?
I have but not in a full port job because I already bump the compression by cutting the cylinder. On an otherwise stock saw, you won't notice much.
Funny you mention little red barn. I live 20 min away from him and got to attend a small engine class he teaches at the local college
What you recommend this saw over something like the holtzforma copy of a husqvarna 372xp?
Absolutely........ this is the best value out there on a 60cc saw.
I see this was from a year or so ago but I'll take a change... I too have the CS590 and still have the oem chain, definitely need something more aggressive... Suggestion's please.?
Thank, enjoy life.!
Husky x cut or full chisel Oregon or even full chisel Stihl
I'm running a full chisel Husky on my cs 600 and it was going well until I cooked it! On the bright side, I'm learning more about this awesome value saw
If you buy name brand filters they arent much trouble.
Its the cheap amazon filters that aren't shaped properly for the intake hole.
Is there anything like this for the 450?
Do you have your muffler deflectors for sale yet. They are just bolt on correct
Not yet... Still a month out. They are in production sourcing materials now.
How do you know how rich/lean it is? Is there a visual setting or is it by sound?
a bit of an old comment but I imagine he has a digital tach and is going by RPM. Leaner will go higher RPM at full throttle. Some old fellas can go by sound but I'd never trust myself with that.
Nice mod list👍 did a base gasket delete on mine, got squish down to .023 and removed the inner deflector + drilled 2 5/16 holes either side of the tube, under the deflector before the second tankfull. definitely helped! Then I built it an Ironhorse style pipe, WOW! Woke it right up! Next I'm gonna either remove the carb plug, braze the hole up and reinstall or clean and use a tiny dab of jb weld. I've been running 100ll avgas with either opti-2 or saber at 45:1 in all my saws but typically use no more than 3-4 gallons of mix a year and have been tempted to just use motomix in everything. Would you not have any qualms about running the 50:1 motomix in a modified saw?
I run motomix or amsoil saber at 50:1. The lubrication properties of the amsoil especially negates the need to mix stronger than 50:1, but the motomix is fine too.
Also, I have read several places that the 590s run rich out of the box an need to be tuned soon as you buy them. Is that true to the best of your knowledge?
I would wait a few tanks then have the dealer tune it if you are unfamiliar with the process.
I installed your aluminum deflector and key. I have a 620 carb.
How fast should I let this saw run? It will do about 14K. I brought it down to 12.5
I like 13k
Where can I get the high jet u used with no hole in top?
i stock them most of the time. I'm also going to start offering them installed as a turnaround service eventually. www.amazon.com/Walbro-86-578-1-Nozzle-check-valve/dp/B00TDA2H6I
Any plans to make more timing keys? They are sold out on the website…
Give it 4 days
Hi Matt, If I send my chain saw to you to get the mods you suggest. How much would it cost? How do I contact you? Thanks.
Can be contacted here: www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
Can I purchase one of those printed keys from you? Can’t seem to find a similar fit.
Yes here: www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
So about how far off of fully closed did you ended up high jet ?
Pretty close to 1/8 of a turn open.... That's all!
One last question did you have to pull the red limiter caps and thanks for the help.
@@chriswhite1174 yes but I put them back in after adjustment
Thanks man I appreciate it!
I just bought a CS 590 and want to do your mods ,,,,, where do I get the carb jet or carb replacement part , and timing piece ?
Walbro makes the nozzle but saw salvage.co actually has a 620 aftermarket carburetor that would solve the problem too.
About to pick up a used one of these saws and know nothing. Can anyone recommend a good resource to learn about this saw more?
Tune it and run it. Look into muffler and other mods.
when is the muffler going to be available for my cs 590 saw . thganks bubba
They will be here shortly. Waiting on a shippment. www.sawsalvage.co/search?q=gearhead
I never did see what you did for the carburetor mod did you just change the jet and that's it?
Jet with no bypass?
By changing the key on the crankshaft from metal to plastic I don't understand how that changes your timing
Check out my other videos for the carburetor modification (changing the jet). On this video it only covers allowing for proper adjustment of the factory carburetor with no hardware changes. The timing key was made with an offset which gives a different timing advance. The factory key is just straight.
czcams.com/video/hZbuPtdCLLs/video.html shows the actual changing of the nozzle. This is only required on a fully ported saw or at altitude where the factory adjustment doesn't allow the saw to go lean enough.
@@mattr66 okay thank you very much
Where can I purchase a couple of those keyways?
www.sawsalvage.co/search?q=gearhead
Get a full house chisel chain and it cuts really fast
They come with one now... Oregon EXL
Stihl pre mix is an alkaline fuel lasts 2 years open and 5 years sealed. Only other fuel like it is aspen. Both won’t ever gum your carb the other in this video will about a year sooner
I use echo red armor I think it’s even better and it’s 93 octane
But we can all agree that ethanol-laden fuel is terrible for storage in small engines right? LOL
Any way I could get one of your flywheel keys?
yes find me on Facebook.... facebook.com/profile.php?id=1272332426
What’s the part number on that high speed nozzle?
Currently looking for a replacement. The ones I normally use are on backorder indefinitely.
@@mattr66 I’ll see if I can find the part number for the one I used in my 600P. I replaced it not necessarily because I wanted to increase RPM, but so I had more fine control of the mixture.
@@eurokid83 you can also hammer the orfice closed in the factory nozzle if you are careful with a punch and hammer and don't push the nozzle in further.
I just ordered the exhaust deflector for my 4910. I assume I'll need more fuel on top end? Awesome video
How do you know how many rpm you are getting out of it?
By using a tachometer…
Hi Matt, can I buy one of those little flywheel keys from you, or would you ever mod the whole saw for me please?
I'll pay you obviously
Does the key only go in one way?
yep, can't mess it up by design
What about the crappy sealing air filter?
I have a fix for that now too.... www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
I'm interested in purchasing a key(s) and the muffler deflector. I am not on Facebook, so is there another way to contact you?
www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
www.ghtuning.com/product/cnc-machined-and-upgraded-chainsaw-parts/
How do I get one of your 3D printed keys?
They are aluminum now. www.Sawsalvage.co has them
WHAT NEEDLE DO YOU CHANGE
Both the H and L needles usually need a little tweaking on these saws.....
Great stuff brother. Your 3D keyway sure sounded like it picked the WOT RPMS up but was it my ears or was it stumbling a bit in the cut ?? Helluva improvement over stock tho.. Thank you
It was bumping against the rev limiter under light load I think is what you heard.
Still had a bit of a cough throuout the cut, because it's still a bit rich. If you drilled a hole to equal 70% of the original exhaust hole in the muffler under the director plate it will help you quite a bit, also the transfers in the cylinder can have about 20 thou removed to match the case to help out quite a bit with gains in power.
Hi Gearhead.
Will these modifications work for my CS-620PW? I can just feel it in my hands that the 620 wants to put out some more power. If so, I am interested in your 3d printed parts for purchase! Can you post the link here again to order please if different from below?
I'm all out of 590/620 muffler deflectors but they have been a big hit. Retailers will have some more by the end of January. Just modifying the muffler deflector and adding 4 3/16 inch holes around the main hole on the muffler will really wake your saw up. Just remember to retune the carburetor properly afterwards...... Also the 620 coil doesn't need any timing changes.
@@mattr66
Thanks for getting back to me. This is good to know. I may try that hold mod first. Glad I don't need to do a timing change :)
How does just changing a key way change the timing
Ever advance a distributor on a car?
If you don’t understand why, you probably shouldn’t be modifying your saw.
My 590 Refuses to start. It floods out after two pulls. You can see fuel coming out of the compression plug. Total nightmare. I have owned many echo saws in the past (440 my all time favorite) and every one of them ran like a sewing machine. Not the 590. Bought it brand new used it maybe 6 times and never for more than 20 mins each time.
I actually broke it down earlier tonight after I get it back from the shop (still wouldn't start). super pissed.
How much are you choking it? Only choke until it pops once then push the choke in and keep cranking.
Aren’t the coils on the 590’s governed?
Yes, at a little over 13000 rpms(around 13500), but you don't really run the saw there anyway. The HP band (even ported) starts to drop after 10500 RPMs or so.... Just bumping the timing gives you everything the 620 coil does, but without losing the rpm limiter.
Where can I get the key way at
sawsalvage.co search "gearhead"
What about non ethanol fuel from the pump?
Better for long term storage for sure but I would still use stabilizer. Also saws like 89+ octane typically. Some of the pump gas that is ethanol-free is 87 octane.
It's all I use in my small engines. There's a chain of gas stations near me that sell it in 93 octane.
@@stripedbassnut That's a high quality fuel to be able to be 93 octane without the ethanol. That's high quality stuff.....
I did this muff mod removed limiter tabs and retuned the 590 rips now much more power thanks its all I need also did this same to my cs 400 with cat removal very strong saw great for limbing and smaller bucking
Flywheel torque specs?
See video at 27:00
Why didn't you gut the muffler
Probably because it's an absolute cow of a thing. Check out Novice Lumberjack, he cut one apart and it's a horror show inside. I think the Tinman Saws mod (almost bypasses the muffler innards) with this deflector cutout mod would be interesting (and both reversible)
pretty savvy way to address saw performance. I have to laugh at a notable channel that took after a 590 and put the emphasis on cylinder porting. Oh he changed carbs alright, but went to a bigger 620 and no fix for the jetting that feeds too much fuel. And he tried a 620 coil but near as I can understand that did not amount to an advance on the timing. I don't recall that he made any muffler mods either. Your methods on this saw were right, fix the easily and obvious problems first and don't immediately decide that the porting is all screwed up. Minimalist....and it paid dividends.
The go even harder ported..... czcams.com/users/shortste_bjKAxpW8?feature=shares
That dude did open a hole in the muffler with the stock diverter plate. But as you said he was all about porting.
I cant keep chain tight on my 590
Rev'n your saw like a donkey at the end of each cut definitely helps
👍👍👍👍 bagus
Maxima Formula K2 at 32:1 is my choice.
I hear it's good stuff
@@mattr66 Seems to be, I have been happy with it. I am currently trying out Yamalube 2R, same 32:1 ratio.
Don't lie Brother Matt...
That was a 7.3 turbo pedestal oring wasn't it...
FTE Brotherhood 4-EVER 😆 🤣
- Christof13T
It's been too long.. i don't even remember what size those were.
I bet it cuts even faster if you dont drag the dogs down the wood
It really wasn't but I'll make sure of that next go around.
Shouldn’t be so gd hard to get a chainsaw to start
?
You didn't really do anything to the carb, why take it off?
You only adjusted the high speed jet. You don't have to remove carb for that, so you?
What did i miss?
I’m not going to lie, I absolutely hate my 590 Timberwolf, it’s so touchy that if it doesn’t fire on the first one or two pulls it completely floods and nothing will get it started.
How are you applying the choke? Choke it till it pops out of the exhaust one time then push the choke in then keep cranking till it fires. Then tap the trigger to get it off of fast idle.
@@mattr66 that’s my procedure. Most of the time I get a cough out of the motor on the first pull, switch choke off one more pull it coughs and about half the time it will run from there but , if it doesn’t start running on that second pull, no amount of pulling, choke, starting fluid will get it going. The only time I’ve gotten it running after that involved taking the plug out and blowing the cylinder dry.
Hmm maybe it is pushing fuel at rest try clearing it with no choke for a couple of pulls before you choke it next time and see if it pops without the choke.
Try alternate one pull choke on next pull choke off repeat . This might beat the odds .
better not change anything until warranty is over
Uh oh…it’s the warranty police!
Eliminate that decomp they always end up leaking
I put bad gas in my new echo. Tore it up pretty good. Super expensive paper weight
Sorry to hear that... did you get a scored piston? Did you use old gas or gas with no 2 cycle oil in it?
Lol, i did too/ expensive lesson, im waiting right now fir the motor, my choice was a 200. Walmart saw or 180. Motor/ i think i made the right decision
Not enough faster to justify voiding the warranty and cutting the service life of your stock saw short by making it run out of the perimeters it was originally designed for.
There are those of us that don't care about a warranty when we can make a 400 dollar saw cut like an 800 dollar saw with no loss of reliability and in some cases better reliability than how it left the factory.
@@mattr66
I can understand that I suppose. However for me it's all about the reliability. Over the years I trashed 2 cheap big box store Poulan junkers before I got wise and started buying Stihl, Echo and Husqvarna equipment. The Poulan and other cheap saws have a service life of approx 50 hours and are disposable junk.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 I'd rather have a properly adjusted saw with an open exhaust that runs cooler than factory.
@@JohnDoeEagle1Then why are you watching the video?
@@Icutmetal
Mechanically inclined individuals never stop being curious or learning. Why are you asking me? That is the real question.
No need to waste money mixing the Amsoil Saber at 50:1. I have been using this product since 1986. Never, ever had an issue with the 100:1 mix and this was running all my 2 stroke equipment in my landscape maint. company. Non ethanol fuel at the pump with Amsoil Saber mixed at 100:1 is the way to go.
It is definitely good stuff.... I just keep it at 50:1 because it's good insurance knowing how hard I run my equipment.
Because you’re lucky, it’s the way to go?
If this is supposed to be such a great saw why do you need to do all these modifications, doesn't make sense to me.
The manufacturers are under regulations for noise and other factors. The saws are like any other engine. More air in and out, the more power they will make.
How did you cut the piece out of the muffler?
Dremel with a carbide.