A Really Good DIY Battery Tester (BA101)
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- čas přidán 11. 02. 2018
- Link: amzn.to/2VlF4aQ
I got this for Christmas and I quite like it. If you're a DIYer that does some minor car repair, or even a car owner that needs a simple but good battery tester, this is a good one. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Got 1 for free with a battery from Amazon. I had no idea what i was looking at. I felt dumb so i came here to learn
well done ! great video ..Thanks for sharing
We have midtronics or associate for professional testers here in the shop, and that's what we're going to stay with. great video!! 👍
Cool, thanks
Hi I have this tester also. Its great but the CD software is a different version and it wont let me select printer com port. Do you have a copy you could send to me please. I cant find a download on the internet anywhere.
Just got one of these, great little tester.... thanks for the review.👍
Thank you; bought one!
You should try that last battery(the one that said replace 26%) again but with the cables off. They looked in very bad condition and these testers typically must have a good solid connection to give accurate results. Poor connection = higher internal resistance reading = lower readings all around.
I have the exactly same tester. I tested three 12v 480A,520A and a 400A CCA . I had them all on trickle charge as I used the occasionally on my cars on weekends. Two said they needed replacing as their around 7 yrs old but their still going good start every time never let me down. I question the accuracy of the tester that's all cheers
Even expensive ones will be inaccurate, cause if a battery has for ex. 500Amps of CCA, and the measured is just 380CCA, the tester says: replace. They have a specific treshold between the nominal, and the measured amperage according the tempetature, technology, voltage etc. In fact, 380 CCA will even start a smaller diesel engine.
Probably ok in normal temp. But cold its another story.
Thank you for the review :)) Be careful when connecting devices to batteries : first POSITIVE, then negative. The opposite when disconnecting : first negative, then positive.
@@rommelpaculdas1853 - sparks may be generated at the positive terminal ( not the negative terminal ) . Therefore, you don't want a live connection while connecting/removing the positive connection. The sparks are harmless but they might ignite an explosion - the reason for the precaution.
@@tocrob The trick I came up with to remember this since I seldom do it is this. Adding cables, positive first, subtracting cables, negative first.
@@tocrob I think that's bollocks. I've connect my battery charger (powered off) and it can spark whichever way I make the connection (positive or negative last). It's not a great charger - I have others that never spark. But my point is it sparks which you say shouldn't happen.
Also, they say to connect positive jumper leads first and then negative donor battery to ground point on receiving vehicle - because of risk of sparks - which shouldn't exist according to your statement. Personally I find it hard to get a ground point in a modern compact car so I just use the receiving battery negative terminal anyway - we have flame arrestors these days and a flat battery isn't likely to have been making hydrogen any time recently!
There is often a suggestion to disconnect grounded (usually negative) side first when connecting/disconnecting batteries, I thought that was simply to avoid risk of accidentally shorting your loosening tool against the chassis or other grounded point, while removing the positive connection. I mean so a long spanner being used on the positive terminal doesn't accidentally strike the negative frame and cause a battery short with all the fun that that entails. If that were to happen working on the negative terminal first (as is advised) there is no short potential. And of course there is none when you subsequently loosen the positive. But I think your advice is a bit scaremongering.
Informative
very interesting
I believe you're using device wrong. First plug it then wait, when it tells you to turn lights on, you should turn them on now. Not before. If you do this your way, it will never see any voltage difference and will think it's perfect battery 🤔😉 it's self calibrating on every start up.
turning the lights on and off after 10 seconds is to remove the surface charge before doing any testing so you don't get artificially high readings. you can do it anytime before hooking up the tester, and when it asks you, you just agree its been done.
Great Video and good audio now also
Good to hear
It would have been interesting to see what the charging and cranking tests do, since a "good" static battery can produce almost no output when loaded, which it doesn't seem this tester can do since there's no heavy resistor inside to simulate a load.
I'm guessing it takes voltage and resistance readings and uses them along with the inputted CCA to calculate _expected_ health (and CCA number) to create the percentage figures.
cranking tests the voltage drop when you actually crank the battery, tells you how low it dropped and the cranking time
I believe these type of digital testers use a "Conductance" test. As a retired electronics technologist, I can't even explain the full test, except that the internal resistance of a battery relates to it's overall health and capacity. For a full technical discussion, go to the BatteryUniversity website at: batteryuniversity.com/learn/archive/why_do_different_test_methods_provide_dissimilar_readings
This tester must have
I have seen these type of analysers and I habe often wondered how it pulls a load on the battery? I know this video is a couple years old, but are you still using it? Have you upgraded to a different model?
I still use it. I’m not sure exactly how it pulls a load.
These types of testers don't pull a load. They're a 'conductance tester' if you want to look up more about them. Don't have experience myself but apparently they can give a reasonable estimation of a battery's ability to put out amps. They need a very good solid connection - can't have the crocodile clips loose etc or it messes up the resistance reading which is needed. Thanks for the video, I hadn't seen one of these testers so cheap before.
san po kami pwd makabili nyan saka how much po?
nice video,this tester is must have.can you tell us what type of charger you use? thanks
I use a NOCO G3500 charger, I'm very happy with it, I bought another one.
I suppose it isn't going to work for the load testing on a diesel pickup with dual batteries, will it? Thanks, Tom
Good question, I'm not sure!?
Each Batt must be tested independently
Thank's. Can I ask you about this new mic ? brands, model etc..
The mic was cheap, I got it from Amazon. It is flaky now I wouldn't recommend it. I just bought another mic, we'll see if this one lasts or not.
Thank you for the reply.
If CCA value is not mention on battery, how to test CCA percentage?
Look up online to find out what spec a new battery for your application is then use that number
I'm looking for a battery tester too. So many brands and models. Just pick one of them and? They should work kinda the same?
I think they are all basically the same at this price point.
Is the ANCEL BA101 and the QUICKLYNK BA101 the same device. They look identical accept for the ANCEL label. I see some bad reviews for the ANCEL.
Hmmm it could be rebranded under other names.
You could have tried to put the right clamp upside down in the last test - probably you'd have doubled the connecting points on the tapered terminal. 😉
The presentation itself was very good! 😃👍
Hmm OK
can that be used to check for leakage currents in the car
I would say no
Ancel BA101 Car Battery Tester price is good on aliexpress
What is the point of the usb cables and cd if it can't be used on the tester?
I think maybe you can plug it into a computer and update the software? I'm not sure.
@@InternetDude It seems like alot of fiddling around for a battery tester. It says it can print but the printing info is so small that there is no point printing anything even if the tester had bluetooth, better to take a pic on the phone. Could you update it and see if there is a difference in features, battery range or speed?
Cool car gadget. 950.
Great review sir. It is great that you have used it with a variety of situations, and excellent camera work too. I think the battery with a remaining 325A of CCA is still OK for summer usage isn't it, despite the suggestion to "REPLACE?"
I would think so.
I tested my battery with this tester. In the car it says it's good, But out of the car it says to replace battery. I'm confused.
Hmm OK. Did you turn the headlights on for 10 seconds before doing the in-car test like it asks?
@@InternetDude Yes, followed all instructions as directed.
How to parcesh this diveice in site
Give me the link
Descrpshin
Why didn't you do a cranking test and charging test?
I only wanted to test the battery
Hello, nice video...we are sub....wait for you...:-) Greetings from Italy !
Do you have supplier in philippines for this?
No, I bought from Amazon online.
for PH market.... Lazada or Shopee meron po battery tester na ganyan
Uh I think your battery is not a flooded unit - It is a agm style glass matt, The other two you tested were flooded type
I'm quite sure it was regular because of the price.
Those clonky buttons
Done 🤗 now you
922 back and watch 1min.
Is this thing still working today?
I don’t use it too regularly but it worked fine a few weeks ago
I think you are making reviews getting kickbacks
They sent me the unit for free to review.
Yah, but this one only measures up to 1000 cca.
2000 cca according to the product packaging
nice video broer your turn
That link goes to a different product now.
Thanks for letting me know, I have updated the link.
watch u r video for 5 mint also
according to another u2ber your Jag battery is trash as it's 7.2m ohms
That is NOT how you test a battery, not for critical situations: i have seen batteries with good internal resistance,showing "GOOD" on those mickey mouse testers, and still failing intermittently; these were cases of bad workmanship,in which the internal connections were not done well,they were sensitive to shock and vibrations; junk,in one word; a load tester is much more reliable than those .
I should borrow an old fashioned load tester and compare!
well yes it is nowadays, the old days of carbon pile testers toasting bread are over
do not see how 7.2m ohms is healthy ?
I'm not totally sure on that...
Draining that battery is a bad thing but using a trikel charger helps to de sulfate bad spots on the plates... Sometimes it increases after weeks of charging....
..
This tester is not suitable for motorcycle (lower than 100cca)
You don’t have the keys ... we want to see the cranking test wake up dude
Yeah I hear ya. I usually need to test a battery out of a vehicle though.
Interesting. I watched a review of Harbor Freight's "Centech 100A 6/12v Battery Load Tester" - 2 times cheaper, 5 times bigger in size. That thing has a huge heater (resistor) inside, i assume just shorts the battery and loads it for a short period of time to measure it correctly. How does this little BA101 actually load test the battery? Can't imagine so many amps flowing through this itsy-bitsy red toy without melting it :D Now i have to find a teardown of this peculiar device :)
Your RED ButtoN GoT SomE LovE CaN MinE? 927
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Most batteries u tested are gel not regular
When you say gel do you mean AGM?
this appears to be a very childish battery charger
Why do you say that?
You can check your battery by internal resistance
thankyou