DIY Annealing and Hardening Steel for Knife Making 1
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- čas přidán 25. 08. 2015
- DIY Annealing and Hardening Steel for Knife Making. Most high carbon steel like car leaf springs or lawn mower blades are great for knife blades. They are hard enough to hold and edge and strong enough to last a lifetime. The only problem is cutting and grinding this hardened steel can be very difficult. This short video shows DIY knife makers how to soften the steel so its easier to cut and grind into shape. It also demonstrates not only how to re harden the steel but also how to temper it so the finished knife will hold an edge and not be brittle.
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I usually don't comment but I have to say Thank you. I have watched 100's of videos at this point on these processes and this should be an instructional video for people who are getting into knife making. The gods of brevity smile upon you my friend.
The clearest explanation of the differences in steel states I have ever seen! Thanks!
I know
So cool
Amazing this is the best video I have seen to date which easily and clearly explains the process. Thank you so much. I appreciate this.
Wow!! A video that helped me to connect all the dots. Thanks from India 🙏🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video! Direct and to the point. I’ve been amassing all the knowledge I can from CZcams et al, and it’s been hard to find videos that just say HEY DO THIS without an overflow of excess information. I know there are lots of other considerations when heat treating a blade but for a beginner this video is absolutely perfect! Thank you.
You are the only one who says that it very clearly and simply, and it is very easy to understand
Thanks so much for a very clear, concise method! Much appreciated
Great video. Straight and to the point.
Literally the best explanation I've ever been shown.
Thank You
Awesome video. Im starting to experiment with heated metal working and this is a fantastic quick and easy explanation of the easiest way for anyone to own a self made masterpiece of a cutting tool. Thanks
Thank you for the very easy to understand video!
Great Information! Thank you for using items we may have around the house.
This video is perfect.
It honestly is making me ...pretty upset that I don't have everything needed to do this right now
excellent, excellent video. thank you
Thank you very good information easy to understand
This video has taught me well. Thanks alot.v
Good stuff, thanks!
Thank you so much
Great video! Thanks for sharing! And Yes I did subscribe! Take care!
Awesome, thanks
No problem!
I used to work as a CAD tech, and I basically had to train all our new guys how each program worked, and how they interacted with each other. I quickly realized teaching is NOT easy. However, the biggest lesson was that you can't just rattle off what to do. A trained monkey can figure out how to copy an action. The best teaching is when you find some way to explain WHY you are doing these steps, and you could just see it click in their heads. All of a sudden, they can link all these actions together with logic.
You did exactly that with this tutorial. Some people have differences in the specifics of tempering time, or whatever, but you made the steps very understandable, and taught a few people "how to fish" so to speak.
Side question if you ever get a chance after these years: What about files? I've seen people make knives out of files, and now I'm more curious, because of it's hardness/brittleness. Would you have to just temper the blade, since it's already been hardened? Or does the process have to start all over with annealing, quenching, tempering? Thanks.
Daniel, Thanks for the postive feedback. For working with files. It is often best to anneal them just to save time and effort. Grinding the profile is much easier and uses less belts if the steel is soft. Some people claim that they can grind a complete file knife without annealing and not have to harden it. I always found this hard to believe. First off it would be very difficult to drill pin holes. Second the finished blade would be much to brittle.
Nice
if anyone has trouble cooling slowly i had a buddy who was a glass blower and if he couldn't get enough kiln time for proper annealing (multi day for glass) they would put the pieces in a crockpot full of vermiculite (hydro shop or ceiling insulation) the vermiculite is an insulator and can't burn.
Thanks
No problem
This is good, what I am looking for is a more remote, less convenient way to anneal, as in a very remote location without electricity available.
when tempering I've seen 450 degrees for half hour, 400 degrees for an hour, and many different variations, which is correct? you did 375 degrees for 3 hrs? then just turn oven off and let cool?
Does Hardening and anneling need to be done when using an old sawmill blade using a file or belt sander and not getting the blade extemely hot?
Very nice video explained alot.
:) greetings.
+Þorleifr jarlsskál Oh, and can you use motor oil for quencing? Thanks.
+Þorleifr jarlsskál Glad you enjoyed it. We had fun with these projects and have plans for a few more interesting knife builds in the near future.
+Þorleifr jarlsskál Yes in fact motor oil is what I used.
if i have a saw blade do i need to soften it the make the shape before heating it again
just gave you your 100th like good video thx
I have so many questions! I just started my journey in blade smithing and I wish I had a mentor. Lol.
You and me both LOL
hello sir which motor oil do you use can i use burn mobile oil which is used in petrol engine
how fast of a angle grinder do you recommend?
This is a great tutorial. When would you recommend taking the first sharpening pass? Would you let it temper before sharpening or would you get an edge before hardening then take (for example) a whetstone pass?
I ground a close edge prior to heat treating. Then sharpened after the knife was finished. czcams.com/video/RrpooXp51xk/video.html
Thanks man!
What oil do you use ??
imagine this guy's wife opens the oven and just sees a knife cooking in there
What kind of oil do you use ? Regular motor oil ?
I just used motor oil
Thank you so much that you answer all my questions except these
1. the process that you demonstrate on the video, does it work for tool steel like the file too?
2. can i anneal, harden, & temper high carbon steel like the leaf spring again and again for many times? thanks in advance!
+Tesfaye Dejen The same process works great on Tool Steel. Check out video on making throwing knives from a file. czcams.com/video/P7KVhPyfZM8/video.html
what kind of oil?
can i cold with oil or cold water and still use it for another thing like decoration?
Different steels like to be quenched in different solutions. If you use water with some steels they will crack. It's best to cut a test piece, bring it to temperature and quench it and see how it reacts. Otherwise the piece of work you spent hours working on could get ruined.
No knifemaker ever says whether you should clean the oil off the blade after quenching and then putting in the oven. Do you keep the oil on the blade and then put in the oven or completely remove the oil?
I wipe it down but don't use a degreaser,
AJ Usog ,I do, or all the smoke alarms go off, and the Mrs gets pissed about her oven being painted with oil smoke, I sand and wipe clean with accetone between , annealing, hardening and tempering
What type of oil is recommended for the quench?
It really depends on the type of steel but for basic high carbon projects motor oil will work fine
You can use canola oil warmed to about 140°F. It supposedly quenches the steel more thoroughly than motor oil, so the hardness is more consistent.
hi, a quick question please. You heat it to "non-magnetic". But,after it cools down, is it still non magnetic or does it become magnetic again? I heated an old file to the "non-magnetic" state, but quickly afterwords it was magnetig again. Its my first attempt to knifemaking, so not sure if i'm doing it wright...
Your doing it right. Its only non magnetic when its cherry red.
okay, that is good then! how long do you have to heat it in the non magnetic state? i have seen clips where they heat it for an hour.....
thanks for the answer!
I was away for a few days, otherwise would have replied earlier. Only needs to be heated to bright orange non magnetic for a few minutes.
well everybody needs some time off!!! hahaha
does not matter that i had to wait a bit, ill survive ;-)
thank you very much!
i dont like the sound of water quenching. is water quenching needed for some alloys
I use oil
Please, what kind of oil, a specific one or what ? Thank you in advance!
I think any kind of oil will work. Something fairly gloopy/heavy/viscous maybe a good idea (less flammable)
Actually a lighter weight (low viscosity) oil will work best. This allows the oil to flow more easily along the length of the blade and cool it faster and more evenly. For the same reason, it is also a good idea to preheat your quenching oil (somewhere in the range of 100 F to 135 F). Agitation will help even more. In general, the faster the quench, the harder the blade will be, but too fast will cause cracks and distortion. This is the issue with water (it quenches very fast but has a high risk of causing quench cracks/distortion). Water is generally only used for large thick parts to achieve "through-hardening", or for alloys with poor "hardenability".
As a former welder, I couldn’t get past the unsheathed knife over your hand. Safety first.
it pained me when you rubbed the files together
You sure did a great job of clearing out all of the BS vocabulary involved with hardening/tempering and the order of work in building good edged weapons...Thank You, and may your tribe increase...
375 degrees what? Fahrenheit or Centigrade?
Fahrenheit
1500 degrees? Is that as hot as the World Trade Center got on 911 to melt its girders?
William Carr: good question for those who are not sheeple! How did the World Trade Center fire get so hot that THICK steele melted? NANO THERMITE painted on the beams that cut through like a torch yet even as the area was considered a crime scene the cleanup started immediately 😳 USA involvement in the Mideast and it continues to this day! Maranatha,Greetings from Tampa Florida 😎
@@brucesanborn7484 nano termite so something in the paint & this was put on there during routine maintenance ?
@@ericschulze5641 : the Nano Thermite has it's own oxidizer so no additional oxygen is needed to help the burn and it burns hot,yes painted on the massive beams and a BUSCH relative was in charge of building security! We are being played like a cheap Stradivarius! Maranatha, Greetings from Tampa Florida 😎
Very useful to know, but would be a lot easier to hear without the pointless music.
Your not the only one. Made a new updated version with no music (just for you) LOL czcams.com/video/0RoozxYUi74/video.html
Does your mom know you're doing that with her oven!!? Seriously though, dont do that. Get a cheap toaster oven to keep in the garage. You dont want all that cancerous garbage going in your food
I ended up sticking my hand in the furnace to get the knife, and losing it as a consequence. Please be more clear with the directions next time.
+King Cletus Your right common sense is not that common LOL
+DIYeasycrafts Well he didn't tell me how to take it out of the furnace. He didn't even tell me to keep breathing! I could have suffocated, but luckily i did have enough "common sense" to keep breathing. All I'am saying is that he should have been more clear.
@@kingcletus1310 Clearly you should be no where near a forge lol