The Incredible Box Joint Jig Hack // Perfect Box Joints
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 01. 2019
- #woodworking #joinery #DIY
GET YOUR WOODWORKING T-SHIRTS HERE. NEW DESIGNS : www.spreadshirt.ca/user/soren...
In this week’s video, I build a 5/8 inch box joint jig that will produce amazingly perfect box joints every time. This jig is made up of a box joint template that was purchased online for $13, with the rest of the jig being made up of scrap wood from my workshop. I also show you my configuration and set up, including which guide bushing and router bit to use to achieve great results.
DISCLAIMER: My videos are for entertainment purposes only. Do not attempt to do anything that is shown in my videos. Woodworking and Metal Working are very dangerous activities and should only be performed by trained professionals.
Donate to This Channel: / sorensen
For more Videos, check out my website:
FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM or TWITTER: @SDGMIXX - Jak na to + styl
THANK YOU! I've watched about 3 hours of videos trying to create a box joint jig that could accommodate longer boards. This is easy and super effectual. Spot on.
اشكرك جدآ
عمل رائع حقآ
نشكرك على مجهودك لتوصيل المعلومات ببساطه
Thanks for your kind reply, looking forward for the comparison video
EXCELLENT!!!!!! I will make one of this jigs for me. Thanks!
Muchas gracias por mostrarnos ese gran trabajo... Beautiful.
Thanks for sharing your work and you did a wonderful job of explaining the hows and whats. 👍🏾
Excellent video. Long time I've been looking for something that I can feel comfortable building and now I got it. Thanks for sharing this valuable information.
@Eduardo Torres My pleasure! Hope you can make use of it.
I have looked and looked for the perfect box joint jig that suits me. This is it. I cannot use a dado stack on my ts because the spindle is not long enough, I have a sliding router table and it is difficult to deal with for this purpose but your jig will work nicely.
Awesome jig Mate and fast too.
I love this! Very nice creation - affordable, useful, and practical. Thank you very much for sharing! 👍🏼
No problem @RFD265! Cheers🙂
Thank you
Excellent vid Eric - as usual.
Also great looking sled. Going to search your site for it.
Great detail and through. Maybe I'll try this if I ever get a router. I'll have to stick to using my table saw for now.
Great idea.
Great video and great information.
Thank you for posting this!! Great idea!! Going to look into that template today!!
My pleasure @BookofIsaiah (Matt B)! Cheers 🙂
i bought this template and used a 3/4" guide and 5/8" straight bit (just like they say in the instructions) , and the joints are perfectly snug
🤯 Thank you!!!
This might be just what I need for box joints. My dado stack blades have enough variation that any joint I make with it either needs cleanup or has slight gaps. Thank you!
Excellent
good looking box joints. I like your jig make.
Very very nice. Thanks
Very nicely executed Eric! The results that you achieved speak for themselves........... :)
Thanks @Sapele Steve! I was impressed with how fast and easy it was to get a perfect joint! Well worth the $13 investment 🙂
The no-gap part is nice to have.
I have made a lot of box Joint boxes several different ways. but this is the best
Thanks @Fred Watterson ! Glad to hear it worked well for you. Cheers 🙂
I wish the UK had stuff like this.
excellent well done awesome jig
Thanks @Simon Hopkins! Cheers 🙂
Cool looks like one I might use. And it looks faster and safer than the table saw jigs...
@Bill Hart I find that its less hassle than the table saw or the router table jig. You really just have to keep your router down and get a good grip. The rest is a breeze.
Nice
Dude I'm liking your explanations very simple still entertaining for the noob it's awesome
Great jig, great idea! Do you know the width of the spacing between each pin on the metal jig? I'm trying to work out which guide bush I'd need to produce 10mm pins
Wow I don't believe my eyes haha. I just bought one a busy bee tools and I myself don't have the jig and was wondering how to do it haha. Thanks for the clerity
@Franks DIY No worries! All you really need is the template. The jig just acts as a clamping device - easy to work around. Cheers 🙂
Great video. You won me over with, "if you wanna buy me a beer". You will be my first patreon. Lol. Well done bro
Thanks Matt! Cheers🍺.🙂
Thanksfor the exellent video!
Can you share information about where to buy the templates, please.
Looks great and I have a number of templates already but you left out of the video the process of setting your cut depth so the pins are either not too short or not too long.
@Bryan Paton That part is really easy. With your board already clamped in the jig, take another board the same thickness and butt it up on the underside of the template plate to reference the thickness. Mark a line using the underside of the reference board as a ruler. Now you have a mark for your perfect depth. The bottom of your bit should just be on that line or about 1/64" under it.
Awesome jig for very little money! I'm wondering if this jig could be used on the router table. Or maybe a variation of it. MLCS has dt jigs that you need to make a block for and they can be used either on the router table or the way you demonstrate. Your results speak for themselves. Much nicer than using a table saw if you don't have a dado stack.
Thanks @K.B. Woodworker! You could probably just add handles, flip it around and use it on the router table. I personally prefer using it this way because I can see what I'm doing a little easier and I can work with longer boards this way..
wish it was still available...
Nice video! Have you considered doing the routing upside down on your router table? Use the template like the new Leigh tool.
@mark2talk2u Yes, you can use the jig that way, though I personally don't use my router table that much anymore. I prefer to have both hands on the router with the bit pointing down.
This is excellent!
Thanks @StuffUCanMake ! Cheers 🙂
Wish I were a whiz with CNC, CAD and 3D printing... would be easy to make up templates then! :-)
Thanks for this great video. My question is about the purpose or reason for the plywood underneath the aluminum template? Is it support, or something else? I have a similar template, 1/2 inch rather than the 5/8 you used and the plywood doesn't hold up well perhaps due to different spacing. Hoping I can support the template with a modification and not mess up the process. Any suggestions?
You want to mount the template onto an L-shaped jig for easy clamping to the work piece. The L-shaped jig is made of plywood.
You showed a dovetail jig that I think can also be used to make box joints, would you be so kind as to compare both making box joints?
@jpmnmx Excellent point! Yes, the General Tools Dovetail jig can also be used for box joints. Honestly, I've never used it for box joints. It is a smaller jig though. I will try it and compare in an upcoming video 🙂
Hi if you change guide bushing.s can you make 1/4" box joints
@resorter66 Unfortunately, no - because the template already dictates the size based on the fingers, so you would have to use a different template or build a different jig.
I cant seem to find this template. Any idea on your source? thanks in advance
Question...Do the bearing and upcut bit give a cleaner cut than simply using a flush-trim bit to make both the jig and cut the joints through that much wood?
The carbide spiral bit does a cleaner job for sure. I prefer the guide bushing / spiral bit combo to the bearing bits. The bearings have a tendency to fall apart after a few uses. Smaller passes also do a cleaner job, rather than trying to take it all in one pass. Your bits will last longer that way too.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks a lot for the information and quick answer, I'm looking up bearing kits and a bit now.
What is the purpose or reasoning for the brass guide bushing?
Can you not simply use the top bearing bit from the start and cut out the wood in a number of steps?
@John Walker If you use the bearing bit from the start, you will be trying to remove a lot of material all at once. Plywood is very tough and you will get a lot of burning and probably a very dull bit before you're done. You will do a much cleaner job if you use the guide bushing first and come through after with the bearing bit.
@@EricSorensenCanada
Ah, I see.
Many thanks for that Eric.
Can you share the brand of your guide bushings? I have router similar to yours and I'm getting conflicting messages on whether sets available online will fit the router
Shop Fox
IS there any reason one couldn’t use 1/4” plywood for the aluminum template to sit on and be used to make joints in 1 1/2” thick material with a 2” pattern bit? 3/4” plywood would provide greater rigidity but would limit the cut depth, correct?
@Byron Sinclair It's probably doable but normally you wouldn't really work with anything over an inch thick with a template like this. I've personally never built a box that thick, so I recommend doing a test cut with two scrap pieces to get your sizing right.
Apparently these combs are not currently available. Closest I can find is from Banggood, but.... it is 1/2” not 5/8”. What bushing and bit will give me what size finger joint? I am concerned about spacing, should I be?
You'll have to experiment on some test pieces to arrive at the proper guide bushing size. Start with a manual like this one, it includes instructions for a 1/2" scenario: bit.ly/3jGFCSw
What guide bushing set is that? I have the same Makita router.
@Justin Courts It's the Shop Fox Guide Bushing set. It was a good price on Amazon.
Newbie question. So the reason for using a router instead of a table saw for box joints is because the lumber is longer? We once cut box joint fingers in some longer lumber by creating a sled that would support it vertically. This would be much better, of course. Do you still use your table saw and a box joint jig for smaller stock? I saw someone mention that router bits wear out sooner than table saw blades.
A couple of things: you can make a jig to cut box joints on the table saw but you will need a dado stack to to cut it efficiently. If the board is longer than 2 feet, don't attempt it on a table saw. It's not safe. As for router bits, if someone is telling you that their router bits are wearing out quickly, it's because they bought cheap router bits. If you buy carbide bits, they can last years before you have to sharpen or replace them. Finally, I prefer using my router for box joints. That is my preference and I find it quick and easy.
@@EricSorensenCanada thanks very much for the reply. It helps to know why you have chosen one tool over another.
Love the jig but would really appreciate more detail info you didn't mention the depth that those finger should be are they against the "beam" board? it would make sense so the cut goes all the way through both boards, also when you set up your cuts are you doing both boards at the same time or one at the time with the scrap behind it ? what would be the best way to offset these to get a good joint alignment? Thanks in advance great video otherwise
@wpala Thanks! It goes flush to the back board, so you are using the full finger depth in the plate. Offsetting is easy, you cut your first board with the outer edge of the board lined up with the outer edge of a finger. You use that first board to mark the starting position of your adjoining boards. Then you set the those boards to one full finger position (to the left) lining up the mark with the inside of the finger. I cut one board at a time. Trying to hog out two boards at once would be pretty hard on your router bit - I don't recommend it, as it will overheat.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks for quick reply , I'm gonna play around a bit to see how that works for the joint alignment God bless buddy
Thanks Eric. I guess the only limitation, if you could call it that, is that all box joints will be 5/8 inch, right?
Thanks @David Letz! You would need a a jig or template for each size you make. The 5/8" size is probably as large as I would go. i want to make a 1/4" solution as well - that will be next.
Thanks for the reply Eric. One final question: what can you adjust if the fit was too loose or too tight?
@David Letz There really isn't much to adjust other than the guide bushing and the bit you're using. The spec sheet suggests to use a 5/8" straight bit with a 3/4" guide bushing. I didn't have a 5/8" bit so I used a 1/4" spiral bit and a 9/32" guide bushing. That combination gave me the best results.
I thought you said there was a link in the description for this template, but I don't see one. Did I miss something? Is it available on Amazon?
Yeah, you missed it by about a year. They stopped selling it or it was discontinued. Someone in the comments for the video may have made a CNC template for it.
@@EricSorensenCanada I have the article from shop notes magazine where they made one using pieces of wood for the spacers, and I guess I could use that plan. The aluminum of course would not change in size like wood will from humidity. Interesting approach that allows you to make much larger projects than typical box joint jigs for the table saw. Thanks
If you use plywood, it would be fairly durable. As long as you're using guide bushings on your router, it shouldn't wear down too fast.
Ok, I bought this exact same aluminum template (D3160 5/8”) and I am building my jig right now... I noticed the aluminum “fingers” are 1/2” wide and the gaps between them are 3/4” wide... Im so confused about how this is going to work if they are different sizes?!
Aaaaand nothing on this aluminum template measures 5/8”. 🤷🏻♂️
@Alex Jartos The spec sheet that comes with the template suggests using a 5/8" straight bit with a 3/4" guide bushing. I didn't have a 5/8" bit so I used a 1/4" spiral bit and a 9/32" guide bushing. That combination gave me excellent results.
Eric Sorensen Thanks for the info!
Anyone help with getting one of the templates in the UK? Thanks!
@Col Morley This particular template may be hard to get now. You should be able to substitute using a similar dovetail template. Although you may need to experiment a bit with the the guide bushing size. amzn.to/2GwHY4H
I assume you can use that aluminum jig to build a box joint jig for the table saw? Good video. thanks.
Nice video and a good design! Although I didn’t quite understand the lining up the opposing fingers part if you’re using a guide bushing that offsets the cut. I’ll probably get it when I try this myself. Also I’m thinking that initially I may not need the metal comb at all and just make wooden fingers so I won’t have to wait three weeks for international shipping. :)
@Random Scandinavian Thanks! There is an offset in the size. The solid aluminum fingers are 1/2 inch and the space between each is 3/4 inch. The spec sheet suggests using a 5/8" straight bit with a 3/4" guide bushing. I didn't have a 5/8" bit so I used a 1/4" spiral bit and a 9/32" guide bushing. That combination gave me excellent results. If you can make a consistent template from wood, that might give you some idea how to go about it. Once you get the size right, lining up the fingers is easy. You can cut one set of joints first and use that to mark the starting position on your adjoining boards (assuming all four parts are the exact same width).
I forgot to thank you for your reply and information! I think I will make fingers out of a strip of thick plastic or wood, cut it into segments and then clamp them tightly together, but with glue only under every second one. That way I can make different ones with different finger widths. Hmm, or maybe I’ll just order that comb after all. If I’d done it right away I would have had it by now. 😃
Why do you need to use the bushing at all? Couldn't you just use the top bearing router bit to do the whole thing including making the cuts? I think I'm missing something?
You can use a top bearing bit if you prefer... They tend to blow-out pretty easily if you're making dovetails and box joints. I've always had better luck with guide bushings.
@@EricSorensenCanada ah. Okay. I think I will have to learn this by experience. I’m brand new to the world of woodworking :) thanks for the quick reply!
You can get a whole set ofShop Fox D3117Guide Bushings for $32 on Amazon. It'll give you plenty of flexibility.
Unfortunately, it looks like Woodstock has discontinued manufacturing of this template. Anyone have a line on anything similar?
@PapaDeLaSon If you do a search for Dovetail Templates, you might find something similar. They had one on Amazon for a good price a few months ago.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks! I guess I'm not clear on the difference between a box joint template and this dovetail template, given that the spacers here seem straight, not dovetailed. Is it that they're rounded over? Seems like that wouldn't matter for most stock I'd be using.
www.amazon.com/Woodstock-International-W1097-Dovetail-Template/dp/B00002241X/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
@PapaDeLaSon There really isn't much difference except that you would be using a straight bit instead of a dovetail bit and avoiding the round corners at the front of the template. I use my 1/2 inch dovetail jig all the time to cut box joints, I even made a video on that: czcams.com/video/958qnQt9W4k/video.html
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks so much!!
Maybe change the name to Sorensen the frugal wood worker.
With the new lumber prices this year, we will all need to be frugal: fortune.com/2021/04/27/lumber-prices-are-up-232-and-it-could-spiral-out-of-control-in-the-next-few-months/