Grinding down the base circle of a cam is a traditional tuning technique, it increases valve lift and gives longer opening. The key is to make a smooth transition from the new base circle to the lift segment and have a progressive lift. People complaining about loss of cam hardness forget that the base circle is not under load, so not subject to wear. Note the very large oil feed holes in the base of the cam - it's not likely that this cam is starved of oil.
@@raywallace1104it not that hard pal in Nam we did it since 2000s, it kinda easy but the cam not alway good , sometime it have a cam that you can’t use that why no body do this since 2015
Stumbled across this the other day; its been seen by just about everyone at work. even peoplein the front office think its crazy. well done thanks for the nuk nuks.
Mantap dgn manual dan derajat yg sama seperti original dan pastinya trek panjang nya dapat biar suara kenalpot tidak gahar tetapi motor sangat laju,itu pengalaman saya waktu bikin manual pake gerinda duduk.semangt terus kang 👍👍👍
Да, метод рабочий, уменьшая базу кулачков можно увеличить подъём клапана и фазу. Но есть много "но". Во-первых точность оставляет желать лучшего, особенно выравнивание вручную. А во-вторых такой распредвал без термообработки получится одноразовым, на один заезд
@@user-ib1hb8zn4c посмотри как работает распредвал и с какой части кулачка начинается давление на толкатель а какая часть даже не соприкасается с толкателем ( а точнее соприкасается условно тк даже 5а прогретом двигателе должен оставаться резервный тепловой зазор) и посмотри какую часть распреда он сошлифовал.а сошлифовал он как раз холостую часть распредвала которая в рабочем ходе ( нажиме на толкатель) не участвует . Откуда тогда должен всяться аж дикий износ той части кулачка которая условно говоря даже не трется по сути о другую деталь?
@@filimonfill9046 ты гонишь? Он поставит клапан длиннее.тем самым он выберет зазор, но за счет удлинённого кулачка получится большая высота открывания клапана.
As a cam grinder myself the duration and lift must be insanely off but close enough right !! The pioneers started the same way. So I've heard it from the camfather himself Ed iskenderian. It was Trial and error! In the beginning great true stories from the man !
Its the all important acceleration rate from lash to the lift ramp that must be done with care as this is the point in which the rest of the valve train is under the greatest amount of stress and may not cope or reduce longevity and reliability .
Trust me, in those 16hp shit engines, if they get 18 after handgrinding down rha base radius of the cam, they are high preformance gurus in their village....
Just weld the lobe then use it lathe and calipers I done it on a go cart 8 horse it sounds great and took off .60 thousandths off the head and beat of all it runs off hho I got a CO2 on the muffler and map sensor on the intake I use a small bladder tak so when the engine needs more hho the actuator opens up more and it's 12 volts electric start that also runs the fuel cell now I can put my car alternator straight to the shaft 1:1ratio long story short since you got access to lathe and knowledge of all that build one it works don't let other tune videos lie to you good luck and God bless
The base circle of a cam lobe isn't a radius, it's an ellipse, with opening acceleration ramps and closing deceleration ramps. These ramps and the diameter of the base circle are determined from hundreds of hours of flow testing different combinations of cam lift, duration and different acceleration and deceleration rates. YOU CAN'T GRIND THE BASE CIRCLE OF THE CAM SMALLER TO GET LIFT WITHOUT UNDERSTANDING THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE PARTICULAR ENGINE. NOW the base circle is a radius. Will it run? Possibly. First, now the ball bearing on the cam, which is removable, is full of grit and is junk. But than can be replaced. Now you have completely changed the valve opening and closing rates by trying to get an additional .030 to .060 additional valve lift. If the valve opens at too fast of a rate, the cam follower will no longer follow the valve because the valve spring isn't strong enough to keep the follower in contact with the cam. This WILL result in cam follower wear and breaking in short order, not to mention a hell of a racket. The same goes for the closing ramp geometry that has been changed. You mentioned that cam wear won't be an issue because you only ground the base circle of the cam for additional lift. Yes, you did grind just the base circle, but also the opening and closing ramps. Then, in an attempt to make things all shiny and new looking you used crocus cloth to polish the entire cam lobe, removing most, if not all of the surface hardening. The surface hardening is only a few thousandths of an inch thick. Install the cam in an engine and film it running. Even you know that you now have a paperweight. A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE IS A DANGEROUS THING.
Go kart racers used to do something similar but they would grind a more aggressive ramp to accelerate the valve open and basically end up floating the valves. Worked really well when you are forced to use the stock components
well,the valves will open 1mm more,that's for sure; and i'm sure you checked beforehand that the spring coils don't bind, that is the most important right now
Я просто в шоке, посмотрел кучу видео с этого канала и прибываю в шоке от того, как люди не заморачиваются и делают то, от чего наши мастера покрутили бы у виска и сказали, что ты сошёл с ума. Моё почтение
The naysayers on here need to rethink...this guy is the real hotrodder, not someone who can only order from the "comp" catalog and barely know what the specs mean. I bet Ed iskenderian, vic edelbrock, and David vizard tried this sort of thing. The lift is easily measured, and the LCA/LSA didn't really change. Opening/closing and duration could be easily measured, too. He only altered the base circle and opening/closing ramps, so spring pressure is low when rockers are even in contact with the lobe. Flat tappet cam lobes are often slightly conical, to promote lifter rotation, so we know some misalignment is tolerable, his eyeball work in this area doesn't look too bad. This is probably from a little OHC motorcycle, the lobes are giant for the little valves and light spring pressures they have to deal with, I bet they'll have a reasonable life if no valve-piston contact occurs. This clever guy probably owns 5 cheap little motorcycles for the price of the cheapest billet part on your street rod that was built by someone else, with money and a catalog, rather than clever craftsmanship. Again..this guy is the real hotrodder. You should be embarrassed. (I do feel sorry for the leadscrew and ways on that lathe, I'd have covered them!)
i must agree with firty lady you should watch alan milliard turns a 4 cylinder kawasaki 900 into a 6 cylinder cut it in half with a hacksaw and welds it back together makes the cam shaft out or gudgin pins to you (rist pins) but i can see the object of what he done it wasnt like he 15mm off the back of the lobe
Empezó muy bien. Y terminó muy mal. A mano hacer la parte mas dificil de la leva no. Hay muchos tutoriales de hacer copiadores caseros muy buenos. Desde el punto de vista didáctico, esta bien.
The surface he grinded does not come in contact with lifter! So no problems with hardening. Done this many times on honda cb 125. You gain lift but little change in timing. These bikes revs 13000 rpm and worked fine after this.
Think about it, this is not bad at all, to get higher opening on the intake/exaust cam he just grinded the useless material which we never consider, instead of replace the entire cam, this way he can add thicker shim on top of the cam to let it open more with the same cam as before...hmm...👍
Grinding down the base circle to increase valve lift and maybe duration is how performance cams have been made from standard camd for a very long time. Much cheaper than starting from a new blank, but limits the cam profiles that can be used, and smaller base circle can cause issues with hydraulic lifters.
@@ferrumignis It can cause issues with any flat tappet lifter in a few ways. If the diameter of the lifter is too small for the profile, the edge can catch the lobe and destroy everything. Mushroom lifters or larger diameter lifters can cure that. On a solid lifter, you need an opening ramp that takes up the lash clearance or the shock can chip and destroy the cam and lifter and a closing ramp to soften valve landing on the seat. Hydraulics also have ramps, but not as pronounced since there is no lash. By cutting the base circle flat, as is done here, the lifter would no longer spin, causing premature wear and failure of either type of flat lifter. A cam that is reground also requires a surface treatment, usually parkerizing.
Ofcurse is not perfect...I get the risk involved...but in some cases 1mm can do some difference in performance without damaging anything..depends how agressive you want to go
@@robertking1032 I was pointing out that a grind not only affects hydraulic lifters, but is more critical for solid lifters. The advantage of increasing lift to probability of cam failure would make this method very debatable. Cams are the most amazing part of an engine due to the abuse they take with hundreds of pounds of spring pressure on the lobe at lift happening hundreds of times per minute, but, they are also one of the easiest parts to destroy. A professionally reground cam is as good as a new cam, but i think done this way, a flat tappet cam would have a very limited life.
@@lelandlewis7207 you hit on the things I had in my mind. I could see this working on a roller setup maybe but not a flat tappet. The wear pattern on a flat tappet would be hard to get right, might could get the circumference smooth enough but the profile across the width of the lobe that aids in lifter rotation would be hard to get right, the taper on the lobe has to mate up with the convex shape on the lifter seat just right in order to spin the lifter and in most applications keep the camshaft seated in one direction of another against a thrust. In the well known sbc the tapered lobe keeps the cam seated to the rear of the engine and the timing gear has a thrust to keep it centered and off the pressed in plug at the rear of the cam tunnel. If one didn't get this profile right it would ride up towards the front of the engine causing timing chain issues, distributor gear issues, and issues keeping the lifter centered on it's lobe. There is more to it than many would think as Mr Lewis has pointed out. A roller cam would negate some of these issues but it's just mite near impossible to do it manually or free hand.
Right that's taken all the case hardening off and the ramps on the side are especially shaped so it doesn't smash into the follows or cams .give it ten mini at peak revs.
Why does the base circle of a cam need case hardening? Pressure on the lifter is zero on the area he ground. Remember setting valve lash? That is the in the fraction of rotation where the cam unloads the lifter.
@@user-zf7vk2ou9v человек правильные приспособления сделал, максимально вывел геометрию, грамотно восстановил поверхность кулачков. При этом оборудование недорогое. Можно сказать, на коленке делает. Считаю, что у автора руки из правильного места. Для гражданских нужд работать долго будет. Что не так? Хорошая работа
I enjoyed the video, but do you have any idea of what the reground specification is , definitely more lift and would have added duration but how much ? Hard to know with free hand finishing. A degree wheel in steps then a free hand dressing would make more predictable results. Great just the same , thanks
The guy couldnt have done all that, those long ass fingernails would have got in the way. All he did was shrink the base line circle, all the duration and timing would remain, but what did happen is he fucked up the valve train geometry guaranteed
@@COLLAR01 The nails were nasty for sure lol. But he never messed up the geometry at all because he actually ground down the base circle of the cam so a $10 set of valve cap shim kits that come in 2 thousand increments he can easily bring it back to the factory valve train geometry.
This will work fine provided the grind depth didn’t remove all the case hardening. It would be interesting to see the camshaft again after it had run for10 hours or so.
I WOULD BE IMPRESSED IF IT LASTED 10 MIN . ARFTER THAT LOT . NOW IM REALLY PISSING MY SELF WITH LARFTER. LOOK AT THAT WONKEY GRINDER NO WAY IS THAT GRINDING TRUE 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 IM ON THE FLOOR NOW I CANT TAKE NO MORE
Profesional mulai dari resufacing batu gerinda nya tanpa merubah profil tonjolan tapi hanya membuat kondisi tutup lebih dasar sehingga klep akan terbuka sangat tinggi
Oui le temps d'ouverture de la soupape est plus long ! Mais le diagramme ouverture et fermeture de la soupape est doute difficile a équilibrée ??? A essayer ????
don't forget to change carburation also, it will be hollow at low speed but if you get to high revs it will be good. Bigger main jets, smaller correction jets, to enrich at high speed. Watch the richness at high speed if lean a nice hole in the piston. But don't forget: to be mean you gotta be lean!
Lebih enak pake yg model gerinda duduk kayaknya dan di pasang busur+ 2 dial buat center top, lift, LSA, durasi dan LC Tp maklum jg sih itu kerjaan mekanik mesin, kalo tukang bubut suruh bikin sedetail itu malah penghasilan harianya ga dapet kcuali copy cam
Looks like he done this before..obviously it made a difference to the little china 4 cycle..good effort even if it aint professional by real engine standards..i would have just spent 10mins with a grinder and flap disc for a quick test
I wonder what rpm becomes a brick-wall for cams modified like this? At higher speed I could see a lot of problems with wrong valve acceleration and spring surge, but maybe for something slower-turning like a 500 single it would be OK.
Почему то во всех видео русские ищут за что зацепиться и обосрать автора, тут видители длина ногтей им не понравилась, вам какая разница, просто какая то человеконенависническая нация.
Grinding down the base circle of a cam is a traditional tuning technique, it increases valve lift and gives longer opening. The key is to make a smooth transition from the new base circle to the lift segment and have a progressive lift. People complaining about loss of cam hardness forget that the base circle is not under load, so not subject to wear. Note the very large oil feed holes in the base of the cam - it's not likely that this cam is starved of oil.
Why are you watching this for. Do you think can do better
@@raywallace1104by reading what he wrote, I believe he can do better.
@@raywallace1104it not that hard pal in Nam we did it since 2000s, it kinda easy but the cam not alway good , sometime it have a cam that you can’t use that why no body do this since 2015
Stumbled across this the other day; its been seen by just about everyone at work. even peoplein the front office think its crazy. well done thanks for the nuk nuks.
100%.
Destroy the cam profile, and still upload this video to CZcams
ROFLMFAO!! No shit!! Now maybe people can understand why flat tappet cams are failing today, because of this high precision work!! ha ha ha!!
very cool paperweight. Good job.
Mantap dgn manual dan derajat yg sama seperti original dan pastinya trek panjang nya dapat biar suara kenalpot tidak gahar tetapi motor sangat laju,itu pengalaman saya waktu bikin manual pake gerinda duduk.semangt terus kang 👍👍👍
Да, метод рабочий, уменьшая базу кулачков можно увеличить подъём клапана и фазу. Но есть много "но". Во-первых точность оставляет желать лучшего, особенно выравнивание вручную. А во-вторых такой распредвал без термообработки получится одноразовым, на один заезд
Он всю цементацию спилил, кулачкам хана
@@user-ib1hb8zn4c если на пару раз проехать, то норм
@@user-ib1hb8zn4c посмотри как работает распредвал и с какой части кулачка начинается давление на толкатель а какая часть даже не соприкасается с толкателем ( а точнее соприкасается условно тк даже 5а прогретом двигателе должен оставаться резервный тепловой зазор) и посмотри какую часть распреда он сошлифовал.а сошлифовал он как раз холостую часть распредвала которая в рабочем ходе ( нажиме на толкатель) не участвует . Откуда тогда должен всяться аж дикий износ той части кулачка которая условно говоря даже не трется по сути о другую деталь?
@@filimonfill9046 Вам надо внимательнее посмотреть видео
@@filimonfill9046 ты гонишь? Он поставит клапан длиннее.тем самым он выберет зазор, но за счет удлинённого кулачка получится большая высота открывания клапана.
Si mas hebat sudah mendunia mas channelnya👍👍👍
U r always informative
It's meaningful, I wish you always success 👍
Great job man
excellent results for the tools available ....respect
Agree!
The grit in the ways of the lathe won't contribute to long term accuracy and precision .
As a cam grinder myself the duration and lift must be insanely off but close enough right !! The pioneers started the same way. So I've heard it from the camfather himself Ed iskenderian. It was Trial and error! In the beginning great true stories from the man !
Max duration max lift less lsa for max overlap
Its the all important acceleration rate from lash to the lift ramp that must be done with care as this is the point in which the rest of the valve train is under the greatest amount of stress and may not cope or reduce longevity and reliability .
The good thing is that he doesn't have to do it 8 more times consistently
Trust me, in those 16hp shit engines, if they get 18 after handgrinding down rha base radius of the cam, they are high preformance gurus in their village....
camshaft lobe design is neither a trial nor error; it is a highly sophisticated exercise in advanced kinematics
Nice video, thanks :)
Just weld the lobe then use it lathe and calipers I done it on a go cart 8 horse it sounds great and took off .60 thousandths off the head and beat of all it runs off hho I got a CO2 on the muffler and map sensor on the intake I use a small bladder tak so when the engine needs more hho the actuator opens up more and it's 12 volts electric start that also runs the fuel cell now I can put my car alternator straight to the shaft 1:1ratio long story short since you got access to lathe and knowledge of all that build one it works don't let other tune videos lie to you good luck and God bless
The operation done with a lathe is
called turning, not "lathing."
Lol thought as soon as i saw that the same
This would not be called lathing or turning. Simply using what you got. Grinding on a lathe.
To the worlds machinist, don’t worry your job is in no danger from this guy
R u from Indiana?
Wisconsin. Must be the northern accent 🤣
Most of these monkeys can barely get anything done.
The lathe's ways will greatly appreciate all that grinding dust too. Could have at least put down a fucking rag.
Nice to see it done? Now I don't have to try!
Great work freehand
Thank you sir 🙏
Exelente idea maestro ! ! ! , Gracias por compartir y un saludo ! ! ! .
gracias Señor 🙏
@@KULITEHNIK que grados o duración le dejastes cuánto traía original que alzada o apertura valvular dejastes como saber cuál es la mejor medida
Corte as unhas amigo. Torneiro perde elas e nrm percebe. Segurança acima de td.
The base circle of a cam lobe isn't a radius, it's an ellipse, with opening acceleration ramps and closing deceleration ramps. These ramps and the diameter of the base circle are determined from hundreds of hours of flow testing different combinations of cam lift, duration and different acceleration and deceleration rates. YOU CAN'T GRIND THE BASE CIRCLE OF THE CAM SMALLER TO GET LIFT WITHOUT UNDERSTANDING THE REQUIREMENTS OF THE PARTICULAR ENGINE. NOW the base circle is a radius.
Will it run? Possibly. First, now the ball bearing on the cam, which is removable, is full of grit and is junk. But than can be replaced. Now you have completely changed the valve opening and closing rates by trying to get an additional .030 to .060 additional valve lift. If the valve opens at too fast of a rate, the cam follower will no longer follow the valve because the valve spring isn't strong enough to keep the follower in contact with the cam. This WILL result in cam follower wear and breaking in short order, not to mention a hell of a racket. The same goes for the closing ramp geometry that has been changed.
You mentioned that cam wear won't be an issue because you only ground the base circle of the cam for additional lift. Yes, you did grind just the base circle, but also the opening and closing ramps. Then, in an attempt to make things all shiny and new looking you used crocus cloth to polish the entire cam lobe, removing most, if not all of the surface hardening. The surface hardening is only a few thousandths of an inch thick.
Install the cam in an engine and film it running. Even you know that you now have a paperweight.
A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE IS A DANGEROUS THING.
You are 100% right! I tried this once a long, long time ago. Result: I could throw away the "Improved" camshaft and buy a new, standard one!
@@joepkortekaas8813 Be prepared for the "experts" to tell you that you are wrong.
Удивительно, есть токарные станки, но нет ножниц для ногтей. Либо за станком ледибой))
Как в кино "Самый быстрый индиан" сточил бы об наждачный круг.
Там ногти вместо резца)
Jajaja no pasa que los fin de semanas el toca la guitarra
Это мундштук из папиросы доставать
Да там или ледияга или же гейяга. 😃
Точил граф Дракула? Ногти шедевральные))))
So much for the quietening ramps and flanks !
Amazing woooow.....
From Indo, suport brooo!!!!
Go kart racers used to do something similar but they would grind a more aggressive ramp to accelerate the valve open and basically end up floating the valves. Worked really well when you are forced to use the stock components
Memang ide lokal....kita berpikir untk inovatif
Good technique bozz
Nice job bro~
Un spécialiste !!! Bravo
well,the valves will open 1mm more,that's for sure;
and i'm sure you checked beforehand that the spring coils don't bind, that is the most important right now
I think if someone tell this guy to weld two halves of a broken crankshaft he will done and will be pleased with his work 😂
Это видео 🤗 про то как очень быстро убить токарный станок ☝️😌
Он потом на тюненом мотоцикле будет точить детали станка.
Ты посмотри как они шестерни и штоки от цилиндров восстанавливают, сварка и наждак, он таким же Макаром себе и станок восстановит😂
Excellent système ! Bravo !
Я просто в шоке, посмотрел кучу видео с этого канала и прибываю в шоке от того, как люди не заморачиваются и делают то, от чего наши мастера покрутили бы у виска и сказали, что ты сошёл с ума. Моё почтение
sympa les crocs :)
тонкая работа))) здорово)))
That was an extremely complex method for ruining a camshaft!
Exactly. To think you can true up cam surfaces by hand is just stupid.
be careful he my dig your eyes out with those dagger finger nails.
yeah perfect way to screw up a cam shaft.
The naysayers on here need to rethink...this guy is the real hotrodder, not someone who can only order from the "comp" catalog and barely know what the specs mean.
I bet Ed iskenderian, vic edelbrock, and David vizard tried this sort of thing.
The lift is easily measured, and the LCA/LSA didn't really change. Opening/closing and duration could be easily measured, too.
He only altered the base circle and opening/closing ramps, so spring pressure is low when rockers are even in contact with the lobe.
Flat tappet cam lobes are often slightly conical, to promote lifter rotation, so we know some misalignment is tolerable, his eyeball work in this area doesn't look too bad.
This is probably from a little OHC motorcycle, the lobes are giant for the little valves and light spring pressures they have to deal with, I bet they'll have a reasonable life if no valve-piston contact occurs.
This clever guy probably owns 5 cheap little motorcycles for the price of the cheapest billet part on your street rod that was built by someone else, with money and a catalog, rather than clever craftsmanship.
Again..this guy is the real hotrodder. You should be embarrassed.
(I do feel sorry for the leadscrew and ways on that lathe, I'd have covered them!)
i must agree with firty lady you should watch alan milliard turns a 4 cylinder kawasaki 900 into a 6 cylinder cut it in half with a hacksaw and welds it back together makes the cam shaft out or gudgin pins to you (rist pins) but i can see the object of what he done it wasnt like he 15mm off the back of the lobe
@@firstielasty1162 haha yeah, keyboard mechanics. I have no idea what I just watched but I know I can't do it
Oh Awsum’ I’m going to free hand mine on the bench grinder over the weekend woot woot
Nice job!
Where is a test results?
Before and after turning?
Empezó muy bien. Y terminó muy mal. A mano hacer la parte mas dificil de la leva no. Hay muchos tutoriales de hacer copiadores caseros muy buenos. Desde el punto de vista didáctico, esta bien.
The surface he grinded does not come in contact with lifter! So no problems with hardening. Done this many times on honda cb 125.
You gain lift but little change in timing. These bikes revs 13000 rpm and worked fine after this.
Вот самый точный прибор ногтиметр меня очень обрадовал зачёт)))
Надо на завод внедрить. До кучи к мерителю типа Палец-ноздря.
Ногти, противно смотреть.
Kang sesekali di slowmotion vidionya.. Kaya pas terakhir ni yg pas ngamplas ama yg bagian2 penting dah keren ngeliatnya pas ada slow vidionya tuh
Peralatannya udah mantap,, cara kerjanya agak ribet om
Good skills.
Love their steel toed sandles🤣
I did it 20 years ago on fiat abarth engine 1050cc. Motor rpm up to 9000 😅
But never mechanical problems..
Same.
Suzuki Swift 1.3 GTI 16V
1994.
:)
@GangBalls69_Estonia Yes. Gas nitriding. It's "mandatory".
Think about it, this is not bad at all, to get higher opening on the intake/exaust cam he just grinded the useless material which we never consider, instead of replace the entire cam, this way he can add thicker shim on top of the cam to let it open more with the same cam as before...hmm...👍
Grinding down the base circle to increase valve lift and maybe duration is how performance cams have been made from standard camd for a very long time. Much cheaper than starting from a new blank, but limits the cam profiles that can be used, and smaller base circle can cause issues with hydraulic lifters.
@@ferrumignis It can cause issues with any flat tappet lifter in a few ways.
If the diameter of the lifter is too small for the profile, the edge can catch the lobe and destroy everything. Mushroom lifters or larger diameter lifters can cure that.
On a solid lifter, you need an opening ramp that takes up the lash clearance or the shock can chip and destroy the cam and lifter and a closing ramp to soften valve landing on the seat. Hydraulics also have ramps, but not as pronounced since there is no lash.
By cutting the base circle flat, as is done here, the lifter would no longer spin, causing premature wear and failure of either type of flat lifter.
A cam that is reground also requires a surface treatment, usually parkerizing.
Ofcurse is not perfect...I get the risk involved...but in some cases 1mm can do some difference in performance without damaging anything..depends how agressive you want to go
@@robertking1032 I was pointing out that a grind not only affects hydraulic lifters, but is more critical for solid lifters.
The advantage of increasing lift to probability of cam failure would make this method very debatable. Cams are the most amazing part of an engine due to the abuse they take with hundreds of pounds of spring pressure on the lobe at lift happening hundreds of times per minute, but, they are also one of the easiest parts to destroy.
A professionally reground cam is as good as a new cam, but i think done this way, a flat tappet cam would have a very limited life.
@@lelandlewis7207 you hit on the things I had in my mind. I could see this working on a roller setup maybe but not a flat tappet. The wear pattern on a flat tappet would be hard to get right, might could get the circumference smooth enough but the profile across the width of the lobe that aids in lifter rotation would be hard to get right, the taper on the lobe has to mate up with the convex shape on the lifter seat just right in order to spin the lifter and in most applications keep the camshaft seated in one direction of another against a thrust. In the well known sbc the tapered lobe keeps the cam seated to the rear of the engine and the timing gear has a thrust to keep it centered and off the pressed in plug at the rear of the cam tunnel. If one didn't get this profile right it would ride up towards the front of the engine causing timing chain issues, distributor gear issues, and issues keeping the lifter centered on it's lobe. There is more to it than many would think as Mr Lewis has pointed out. A roller cam would negate some of these issues but it's just mite near impossible to do it manually or free hand.
Right that's taken all the case hardening off and the ramps on the side are especially shaped so it doesn't smash into the follows or cams .give it ten mini at peak revs.
Why does the base circle of a cam need case hardening? Pressure on the lifter is zero on the area he ground. Remember setting valve lash? That is the in the fraction of rotation where the cam unloads the lifter.
Too much off could let the valve spring retainer hitting the stem seal
Very nice do you heat treat it after
What did he start with a blank ? I dont see where what he did added any lift ? Maybe some seperation ?
Good job
Отличная работа! Молодец
@@user-zf7vk2ou9v человек правильные приспособления сделал, максимально вывел геометрию, грамотно восстановил поверхность кулачков.
При этом оборудование недорогое. Можно сказать, на коленке делает.
Считаю, что у автора руки из правильного места. Для гражданских нужд работать долго будет.
Что не так? Хорошая работа
I enjoyed the video, but do you have any idea of what the reground specification is , definitely more lift and would have added duration but how much ? Hard to know with free hand finishing. A degree wheel in steps then a free hand dressing would make more predictable results.
Great just the same , thanks
The guy couldnt have done all that, those long ass fingernails would have got in the way. All he did was shrink the base line circle, all the duration and timing would remain, but what did happen is he fucked up the valve train geometry guaranteed
@@COLLAR01 The nails were nasty for sure lol. But he never messed up the geometry at all because he actually ground down the base circle of the cam so a $10 set of valve cap shim kits that come in 2 thousand increments he can easily bring it back to the factory valve train geometry.
Internet in the days of my dad the guys used to surface the head with the file and a straight edge and filler gauge
Thats called experience technique
Amazinggggg
Поверхностная закалка, и азотирование как минимум. А то три дня поработает.
вы правы без термообработки и цементации поверхности это просто сырая болванка которую сожрет при работе двигателя
Great engish
Оказывается ,,не один я такой Ловкий,
бруском для точки косы,
Жигулёвский распредвал,
на коленке шоркать!
Да Были времена ,
Голь на выдумки мудра
Погоди, так понял что увеличили высоту открытия клапана? Но как, база то осталась та же!!!
@@MrKelevra163 Теперь рег. шайба будет толще. открытие больше.
awesome
Quá đỉnh 👍
Well done , really enjoyed this. Proper machining using your hands and brain.
Таких мастеров валом .
Right in the "fuck it bucket"
Great❤, kindly make a vid of difference between duration and lift & diff in performance
You have to wait till they make the dyno . I bet that cam in that engine rattles .
Crane cams eat your heart out
Конец меня убил, взял всё испортил сам руками😂😂😂
Осталось только нагреть хорошенько и бросить в стакан с водой
This will work fine provided the grind depth didn’t remove all the case hardening. It would be interesting to see the camshaft again after it had run for10 hours or so.
Nice to see the safety flip flops in action ........
Yes that would need re hardening to be of any use
I didn't see any evidence of hardening on the original surface. The cutting tool was HSS, not carbide, and had no trouble machining the lobes.
@@chash7335 Astute observation. I wonder what kind of engine would employ and unhardened camshaft?
@@ThisIsToolman Perhaps one with roller tappets.
I WOULD BE IMPRESSED IF IT LASTED 10 MIN . ARFTER THAT LOT . NOW IM REALLY PISSING MY SELF WITH LARFTER. LOOK AT THAT WONKEY GRINDER NO WAY IS THAT GRINDING TRUE 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 IM ON THE FLOOR NOW I CANT TAKE NO MORE
Quedo bien, lo que hizo falta fue un corta uñas.
Mài đỉnh cam bằng tay nghiêng một chút có biết o. O chuẩn tí nào.
Did this engine last long after this? Would have to be roller lifters? doesn't flat tappet lifters have a slight angle to them to rotate lifters?
Good point.
When I saw the surface grinder wheel chucked in the lathe I knew from that moment thi gs where about to get interesting
Ну нормально, только теперь чугунная станина будет уничтожена абразивом за несколько месяцев работы.
❤️bagus
TÓP 👍🇧🇷
thank you sir 🙏
Profesional mulai dari resufacing batu gerinda nya tanpa merubah profil tonjolan tapi hanya membuat kondisi tutup lebih dasar sehingga klep akan terbuka sangat tinggi
Someone buy this man a rubber mallet please
Muy buen trabajo 👍 sobre la.practica se aprende mas
Bubut noken as buat mesin apa om
Nice
Oui le temps d'ouverture de la soupape est plus long ! Mais le diagramme ouverture et fermeture de la soupape est doute difficile a équilibrée ??? A essayer ????
Точность запредельная )) А о твердости детали я и не говорю
Точность зависит от длинны и твердости ногтя измеряющего😂
You could add a degree wheel so you cud get better results. Bravo free hand, ive done it with angle grinder and micrometer in my youth.
lam cho 2 dinh cam xa ra thi luong hut nhiu hon ha a
Такого вала максимум на первый запуск хватит
Ну при таком маникюре🙈😁
don't forget to change carburation also, it will be hollow at low speed but if you get to high revs it will be good. Bigger main jets, smaller correction jets, to enrich at high speed. Watch the richness at high speed if lean a nice hole in the piston. But don't forget: to be mean you gotta be lean!
Super megustaria hacerlo en mi canal
Lebih enak pake yg model gerinda duduk kayaknya dan di pasang busur+ 2 dial buat center top, lift, LSA, durasi dan LC
Tp maklum jg sih itu kerjaan mekanik mesin, kalo tukang bubut suruh bikin sedetail itu malah penghasilan harianya ga dapet kcuali copy cam
Looks like he done this before..obviously it made a difference to the little china 4 cycle..good effort even if it aint professional by real engine standards..i would have just spent 10mins with a grinder and flap disc for a quick test
I wonder what rpm becomes a brick-wall for cams modified like this? At higher speed I could see a lot of problems with wrong valve acceleration and spring surge, but maybe for something slower-turning like a 500 single it would be OK.
muy bien, hay de paso una rebajada a las uñas no caería mal
Jajajajajajajajaja 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣
Can I do it on Mondial 50cc camshaft what happened when u reduce like u do on the video
Me refiero a que falta un copiador ,(son ejes con copiadores modificables para cualquier leva ) gracias
Mau tnya knpa noken as yg sdh di bubut cepet habis .. jdi kya kekuatan besi nya brkurang ???
How can this add valve opening higher while removing material off the cam and lobs. seems it would be the opposite not opening enough.
Whelp!, there goes the ramps!
Следующее видео будет про закалку ацетиленовой горелкой?
Да это же Иван Дулин ! Он существует ! 0:19 смотрите на маникюр.
Uhm if anything you took "valve open" away... if you want more "valve open" you need to Add material to add lift and duration.
apik bro
Почему то во всех видео русские ищут за что зацепиться и обосрать автора, тут видители длина ногтей им не понравилась, вам какая разница, просто какая то человеконенависническая нация.