I’ve put these lights in and have some ideas that I learned in the process . 1st if you don’t have headlights already it’s easier to use the inside part of the stencil they want you to throw away. It fits the contour of the body much easier with less chance of error. 2nd don’t cut the drop down part of the bottom edge, the light casting doesn’t need it and it will show on the bottom edge of the light wants mounted. 3rd, the half inch he suggests at 5 inches up from the nose is to much, needs to be 1/4 inch or it won’t fit flush to that body line. 4th, the bottom edge of the template shouldn’t be cut parallel to the edge of the cowel if you cut it like this the lights doesn’t set level and also won’t let the top edge set flush. 5th, the mounts are horribly designed. Only the lower one can be used as they suggest. For the other 2 use a 3/4 inch black plastic sleeve (ace hardware) with one end filed to about 45 degrees. Slide the sleeve over the post and with a fender washer and a number 10 sheet metal screw,secure the light to the body. 6th If this is on a new cowel with no cut out it’s best to lay it out and cut the 1st light on the cart. Then make sure it fits right by holding it in place. Then remove it and lay out the other side while referring to the first cutout. Then remove the whole cowel to fight the mounts. Oh also the holes will end up more like 3/8 inch. This is not a quick and simple job. I had to take my cart down to almost bare frame to replace the entire floor board and that job was less taxing then these lights. The good thing is if you do screw up,and you might, Yamaha has all the colors of cowel in stock for around $100. Mine was $77 so I know. Oh, one more thing, these hoods are similar to Rubbermaid they bend . So if when all done and the lights aren’t perfectly flush you can take the one mounting bolt out of the nose and move it forward or back. It takes very little to make that small gap go away. Then redrill the mounting hole. With all that said when finished and the lights turned on they look awesome. JS
Suggestion I would make is at the end of your vids u need to showcase the product better. U always seem to just end. Either that or do some features and benefit vids of your products
I have installed 30+ light kits, this was BY FAR the hardest one to do! The front lights do not sit flush and the back lights are terribly hard to situate. The included templates are not shaped correctly. After install the kit looks great but its a nightmare to install.
Yes we do Andrew! We are editing the installation video for that right now. Here is the product info page in the meantime - www.nivelparts.com/product/56734/yamaha-g29-drive-madjax-led-ultimate-light-kit-plus.
I’ve put these lights in and have some ideas that I learned in the process . 1st if you don’t have headlights already it’s easier to use the inside part of the stencil they want you to throw away. It fits the contour of the body much easier with less chance of error. 2nd don’t cut the drop down part of the bottom edge, the light casting doesn’t need it and it will show on the bottom edge of the light wants mounted. 3rd, the half inch he suggests at 5 inches up from the nose is to much, needs to be 1/4 inch or it won’t fit flush to that body line. 4th, the bottom edge of the template shouldn’t be cut parallel to the edge of the cowel if you cut it like this the lights doesn’t set level and also won’t let the top edge set flush. 5th, the mounts are horribly designed. Only the lower one can be used as they suggest. For the other 2 use a 3/4 inch black plastic sleeve (ace hardware) with one end filed to about 45 degrees. Slide the sleeve over the post and with a fender washer and a number 10 sheet metal screw,secure the light to the body. 6th If this is on a new cowel with no cut out it’s best to lay it out and cut the 1st light on the cart. Then make sure it fits right by holding it in place. Then remove it and lay out the other side while referring to the first cutout. Then remove the whole cowel to fight the mounts. Oh also the holes will end up more like 3/8 inch. This is not a quick and simple job. I had to take my cart down to almost bare frame to replace the entire floor board and that job was less taxing then these lights. The good thing is if you do screw up,and you might, Yamaha has all the colors of cowel in stock for around $100. Mine was $77 so I know. Oh, one more thing, these hoods are similar to Rubbermaid they bend . So if when all done and the lights aren’t perfectly flush you can take the one mounting bolt out of the nose and move it forward or back. It takes very little to make that small gap go away. Then redrill the mounting hole. With all that said when finished and the lights turned on they look awesome. JS
Suggestion I would make is at the end of your vids u need to showcase the product better. U always seem to just end. Either that or do some features and benefit vids of your products
I have installed 30+ light kits, this was BY FAR the hardest one to do! The front lights do not sit flush and the back lights are terribly hard to situate. The included templates are not shaped correctly. After install the kit looks great but its a nightmare to install.
Good to know!
Agree totally, front lights are not flush and the fasteners are a nightmare to properly snug up.
I think you should mention that the FLEET cars have markings on the back of the panels that make cutting the holes a breeze...
Do the new drive 2 have marks For these lights I've used the markings for the old drive 1
The manufacturer SHOULD have used plastic threaded studs instead of those awful push nuts.
Is this the same kit for both electric and Gas Yamaha drive 2
Do you make this kit for the G29 Drive?
Yes we do Andrew! We are editing the installation video for that right now. Here is the product info page in the meantime - www.nivelparts.com/product/56734/yamaha-g29-drive-madjax-led-ultimate-light-kit-plus.