AC Servo Motors and FogBuster Mist Coolant (DIY CNC Mill Upgrades 1)
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- Boosting performance with AC Servo motors and a mist coolant system. My DIY CNC mill is inching closer to an industrial-grade vertical milling center.
Resources and BOM: drdflo.com/CNC-Mill.html
Dr. D-Flo's Instagram: / dr.dflo
D-Flo’s Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/dr.d-flo
DMM Servo Motors, Drives, and Cables:
DMM Servo Drive: geni.us/DMM-Drive
DMM X & Y Motors: geni.us/DMM-86N-DHT
DMM Z Motor w/ Brake: geni.us/DMM-A15-DHT
Power Cable for X & Y: geni.us/Power-Cable1
Encoder Cable for X & Y: geni.us/Encoder-Cable1
Power Cable for Z: geni.us/Power-Cable2
Encoder Cable for Z: geni.us/Encoder-Cable2
Tuning Cable: geni.us/Tuning
Common tools and supplies: dflo.info/Amazon
MQL System and Coolant:
FogBuster Mini: geni.us/FogBuster
DuraKut DK7000B (Paid Link): geni.us/DuraKut7000B
Misc. Products:
Servomotor Disc Coupler: geni.us/Disc-Coupler
Kurt CNC Vise (Paid Link): geni.us/Kurt-DX6
Kurt Magnetic Jaw and Parallel Set (Paid Link): geni.us/Magnetic-Jaws
Video Description:
It is time to take Dr. D-Flo’s barebones CNC mill and upgrade it with components that will improve its throughput, repeatability, and cut quality. The goal is to have a capable machine for eventually producing products to sell. This is the first video in this upgrade series and is focused on improving the linear motion of the mill. To eliminate resonance (i.e. vibration) and other movement anomalies, Dr. D-Flo is swapping out the open-loop stepper motors for DMM AC Servo motors. Dr. D-Flo discusses the differences between Servo and Stepper motors and how servo motors are “position-aware” through closed-loop encoder feedback. Dr. D-Flo walks through the process of tuning a servo motor, which is much easier than people on the forums make it out to be.
In addition to installing the servo motors, Dr. D-Flo also adds the Mini FogBuster Mist coolant system. The FogBuster is a Minimum Quantity Lubrication (MQL) device that works perfectly for open-air mill setups because it dispenses just enough coolant to keep the endmill cool, which minimizes the mess associated with coolant/lubricant. Further, the FogBuster uses a patented technology to prevent the generation of aerosols (known as atomizing), so when you are in a small and enclosed space like Dr. D-Flo’s garage the amount of coolant you will inhale will be kept to a minimum.
These upgrades combine to create some awesome parts, so if you enjoy watching a CNC mill at work then stick around until the end! Get subscribed because there will be more awesome upgrades to come.
Table of Contents:
00:00 - Introduction
04:12 - Servo vs Stepper Motors
07:38 - Installing Servo Motors
16:04 - Tuning Servo Motors
24:05 - MQL Systems
24:43 - Compressed Air Setup
26:14 - Relay & Flyback Diode
28:01 - Installing FogBuster
31:17 - Atomizing
32:09 - Test Cut
38:39 - Faster Rapids
Disclosure:
Dr. D-Flo was not paid to make this video, but he did receive the products at a reduced rate or free of charge, which is why this video is marked to include paid promotion.
#Servos #Coolant #Mill - Věda a technologie
My 2021 resolution is to release 1 video per month! Expect further CNC mill upgrades, over-the-top 3D printer builds, and of course more plasma cutting. I’m looking forward to growing this community, so please let me know what content interests you the most.
Voron?
SLS printing. I am also curious about DIY CNC EDM. That seems right up your alley.
try methanol or isopropyl alcohol for a coolant on aluminum. chips are dry and don't stick to everything. a bonus its a lubricant
@@zviperThat's an excellent way to start a fire.
@@makermatrix9815 you're clearly not a fan of ventilation.. many cnc's use it everyday. I use it all the time with my 3040 milling alu all day long
Shoutout to the girlfriends supporting diy boyfriends.
This is a really nicely put together motion control box. Component list is nearly identical to my wishlist.
Good Stuff, I have been thoroughly enjoying your videos!
Awesome! I like the level of detail you go into for each step. I subscribed.
Thanks man! Welcome aboard!
Awesome machine. Great job!
man such an excellent explanation and you cover it all. I want more now! :)))
Ey dude
You’re videos are legit 🦦
Big plans for my machines
well done
keep awesome and professional
and congratulations for the new upgrades 👌👍👍
Thanks man!
I am awestruck by the level of excellence revealed in every fine detail which is so beautifully presented in all of your pursuits. The mastery of your planning, implementation and execution of such thoughtfully considered efforts is to behold. As an old-timer, you have singlehandedly renewed my faith in both our youth and our future; an area of concern that has plaque my contemplations for many years. The future is brighter than I thought with evidence of such high level experimenters, developers, implementers and achievers still amongst us. Making us elders very proud. Keep up the wonderfully ingenious pursuits and sharing of brilliant knowledge and magnificent discoveries. 🎖👍
I appreciate the kind words!
Nice upgrades. I look forward to future content. If the mist coolant units are anything like the ones I have used, you will still get coolant in a large radius around the mill and still consider using a respirator when in proximity for any period of time.
The only time I can really tell something is in the air is when I’m face milling. But I agree, you only have one pair of lungs. Can’t hurt to wear a respirator
awesome, what fantastic timing! i ordered some AC servos (from china) just last week and your wiring diagram will be extremely helpful. thanks so much. very excited to hear that you'll be uploading more frequently, every one of your videos is exceptionally well prepared and presented. pure gold. we seem to share many interests, you're just several leagues ahead and make videos on it all to boot. really appreciate you and your content!
Awesome! Are you using Mesa7i76E/LinuxCNC?
@@DrDFlo I haven't decided yet. Its a scratch build that should eventually be 5 axis capable.
The mesa boards do come highly recommended, masso looks/ sounds good but is pretty expensive, and the most information I've come across on setting up and programming a build with features like mine are using mach3. Many recommend acorn cnc. There's also the occasional opportunity to buy a real industrial controller like a bosch rexroth mxm or perhaps even a haidenhain for a near enough similar budget here in Austria, if i look hard enough, so even that is worth considering.
The eventual AB axis should manage 600-800rpm after reduction so I want to try to incorporate light lathe functions too.
It seems like there are lots of very capable options, each a complicated and nuanced science of their own, so I need to do a lot more research before deciding, but the linear motion components I have demand decent motors like these, so regardless of what I eventually manage to build, I reckon they'll be useful and appropriate.
Your information and resources are definitely going to be valuable to research whether Linux cnc might be the right option for me.
But to begin with I think I'm actually going to test my hardware and perhaps even go as far as 3axis milling with one of the many 3d printer boards I have, since I'm all out of money for the foreseeable future 😅🤪
@@DMonZ1988 If you have time while you are saving up your money, then I recommend playing around with Linuxcnc. To start, all you need is an old computer because Linuxcnc includes a simulator for exploring the GUI and playing with G-code on screen. Try to figure out how to setup a multi-axis configuration and add peripherals. Linuxcnc is a total pain in the butt to setup, but in my experience once everything is behaving as it should. The operation is flawless. A lot of these expensive 3rd-party controllers are based off LinuxCNC
@@DrDFlo oh wow, really? Thank you, I'll do that. I'd heard that one can run Linux cnc even on a raspberry pi, but figured I'd need a breakout board before I can do anything with it. Simulating the interface and perhaps even seeing how a digital model of my machine would react(?) would be really interesting. Though I'm not sure I could even make a 'functional' model of my design digitally anyway, but I'll definitely take a look regardless. Thanks for the tip!
@@DMonZ1988 I actually ran my mill briefly with a raspberry pi 4. There were a couple problems with backwards compatibility of all of LinuxCNC's ancient dependencies, but you should be able to simulate no problem
Food for thought. I was just on the phone with the Motor Guard air filter company. They told me to be sure NOT to connect their filter in close proximity to the compressor because the water droplets will blow by the filter. If you put the filter further down the line, it will perform much better.
Awesome upgrade!
Thanks Viktor! I think I can get another set for your mill build
6:15 The EMI filters are to prevent injecting noise into the grid ...the noise is generated by the servodrivers and not the other way around, they serve also the other purpose...but in this case the are to prevent noise injection back
Pro tip for you, mount parts in centre of vice, as they do spread ever so slightly. nice work keep it up
Hey David, nice upgrade!
Thank you sir!
@@DrDFlo I nerd-sniped myself on the issue of your flyback diode, thinking that since your solenoid coil was also a coil, you would want one for it as well. This lead to this discussion:
electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/171974/can-a-zener-diode-that-protects-a-switch-against-inductance-when-the-switch-open
I was aware of the diode alone setup lengthening the amount of time it takes to discharge the coil, and how a resistor would shorten up that delay. But I had never considered using a Zener diode. Just be sure that your Zener breakdown voltage is at least 2x the coil voltage (but of course lower than your Vce limit), and that it can safely handle the current. And you can put it in parallel with your output, which makes polarity a non issue at the coil (you would of course have to get it the right way around at the output, but you could connect your coil any which way that you choose).
Nice content! Thanks for sharing! Is the tuning process also relevant to stepper motors in principle too? Secondly, I heard servo motors might overshoot and need to move back and forth in order to maintain a fixed position. Are these servos optimised specifically for CNC and therefore don't suffer from this problem? thank you!
Starting to enjoy your content. Im planning on building a vmc with dmm as well. Only proble i see is you need to learn vice edicate. Never have just 1 part all the way to 1 side of the vice,,,use the center or use 2 pcs, 1 on each side because even a kurt has moving jaw (wiggle) then imposses clamping forces only on the corner of the part i stead of the entire edge. Ill bet that caused your miss match. Also using this advice ensures that you never toss a part out of the vice. Cant wait for the ball screw video!
Great video. Is there any chance you could do a video on wiring the controller box up?
Quick pointer, always clamp your part as close to the center of the vise, where the screw provides the clamping force. Having the part offset to the edge of the vise like you had in the video causes the moving jaw to tilt ever so slightly potentially not even clamping one end of the part. Depending on feeds and speeds it can cause an oopsie to say the least
Very Cool Dave. Still have not converted my 833T yet. Too much going on at the moment. Gathering some of the bits and bobs though for the project.
Do some of those bits and bobs now include Servo motors?
@@DrDFlo No yet, but they might. Looking at a new lathe too. I have numerous industrial pneumatic thingies (technical term) that I may be using.
Great video and you should be able to set a RAPID height , and a Feed Height in your CAM software, That way if you set your Rapid - G0 height to .5 above part and a Feed height to .2 above part the machine should Rapid to .5 and then slow down to set feed rate
A closed feedback loop on a cnc system would consist of an encoder on the motor and another encoder on the end of the ball screw and the control constantly reviews the deviation and goes into an alarm state in the case of a Deviation that is larger than the servo parameter allows. Also instead of an encoder on the ball screw it could be a glass scale. What u are describing is considered a semi closed loop.
Great video! I will order my PM 833 TV now (currently in backorder). After all this time, how satisfied are you with the servos? is that size enought? any torque limitations so far?
I dont know if you did it yet, but I would probably set up a lexan or plexi shield behind the part. Then set your fog buster to blow the chips back towards the wall.. Now it looks like youre shooting them towards your computer. Might help keeping your workspace clean with a shield to catch chips and extra fluids :)
How big is the breaker servicing your servos? From DMM's diagrams it shows a breaker at 2x the size of the contactor. Did you follow this?
Hi that's very useful. Thanks for shairing. I'm so intrested knowing more about wiring diagram and more details about control box.
I encountered some error when I updated the webpage, so hold tight! Wiring diagrams should be up tonight at www.drdflo.com/pages/Projects/CNC-Mill.html
2:16 Deez nuts
HA Got him
Literally paused the video to look for this comment. How juvenile am I?
You need a breake that clamps the ball screw if you are using a belt to drive the z axis also you need to be able to go into estop if that belt breaks. You are setting up a dangerous situation if the belt breaks.
Why can’t you directly couple your z axis motor to the ball screw?
Do note stepper-motors can also have a closed systems. Not only reserved for servo motors..
What pulley ratio do you have there on the Z ? looks like you are gearing up about 2:1 ? I'm curious why you chose that ratio with the 1.3kw servo rather than say 1:1 with a smaller motor, eg a 1kw. Very interesting vid, thanks
Really awesome and inspirational video! Getting ready to convert a pm727 with dyn4 750w and a 3kw 24k rattm bt30 atc spindle. Hopefully no magic smoke.
I was curious if you're running a line reactor? It looks like a lot of people opt not to and it's totally fine.
Also some people seem to just use one braker, contractor and power filter. but ofcourse still individual 1a fuses and filter's for logic. More of a budget option, but looks totally usable. I would love to hear your thoughts on this.
You could try useing turcite on the dovetails like on tormach machines for faster travel. You can get generic stuff from McMaster carr pretty cheap. I think I'm ganna try triflow first and see if it helps.
Man that sounds like an awesome conversion. If you could post your progress on the forum ( forum.drdflo.com/c/CNC-Mill/21 ) that would be awesome. I would love to follow along.
I did not incorporate a line reactor. I am currently running the drives at 120V due to a lack of 240V outlets.
This is the first time I have heard of turcite. Weird name for it just being PTFE (i.e., teflon), but very cool how you can hand scrap it
Hi,
Very good video presentation. I watched the first transformation to the CNC and now this one. Whichever video that I have watched from other guys, they all had problems with the weight of the Z axis. Solving this with either counterweight or gas struts. How did you solve this?
Best regards from Slovenia
Hi crazy project, can you make a video about the wiring of your electronic box and what you for parts are using.
You said at 6:10 that you are using line filters. What are other 3 "silver boxes" under servo drivers over there? And what function does they have?
Just a little comment. You mentioned a few times in this video about vise misalignment when flipping your part over. (Assuming the vise is indicated in parallel to the X axis.) With Kirt type of vises the moving jaw does not have a lot of stiffness/resistance to racking in the moving jaw when clamping parts off center in the vise. So when you clamp the part off center the rear moving jaw does not stay parallel to the back jaw. This has two affects in your setup. First it is a somewhat unsecure way to hold the part because you are only gripping the part on its right corner (Nearer to the center) in your setup. But this also will cant the part slightly as you tighten the rear jaw so it's no longer square to the machine. If you put a indicator on the rear jaw and snug the vise on the part then tighten the jaw you will see this racking movement. I suspect this contributed to the failure of your cheap vise you showed in this video. It is better to center your part in the vise if the setup allows, or if that is not possible due to the setup and the part is not wide enough to reach the center of the vise jaws to put something on the other side to balance the force on the jaws. Just a suggestion.
Are you also going to install travel limit switches so that you do not damage your ball screws?
You may want flyback diodes for those servos as they tend to move after deenergizing over time of use. Just like they do in cheap 3D Printers.
First thing to do is convert the fogbuster into a legit MQL system. EZPZ.... do it, love it.
What amp are the contactors? Also would 1 bigger one work for all 3 drives instead of the 3 smaller ones? Are they NO or NC?
ok, servos, NOW that makes sense :)
So if they need a motor and an encoder could you use a stepper and a d.r.o.?
Will you do a long term review of the servos?
Sweetheart and cool content bro
I am using Tiva C series microcontroller. Do you have any idea about the optocoupler circuit through which we can operate the servo motor using pulse and direction?
Can we get a video on just mesa 7I76E, anhd the electronics box? i feel like it would be really helpful to see that setup in detail.
As a newbie to cnc machining, I would love to see a complete wiring diagram for your control box. The hardware stuff is easy, wiring on the other hand.. 🤯
Extremely informative video! I had no idea about the Flyback Diode. Is there a diode built-in in the din relay you are using? I see a diode symbol on the side of the relay mount at 26:27. If not, how do you determine what diode to use?
You can almost always use a 1N4001 if you're relay doesn't already have one built-in across the coil. Most small 24VDC DIN relays will have a suppression diode.
Could you do a video on the power supply unit, I could not find the info on it in the link you provided to your website
The Heavy metal stopped producing the kits do you know of any source for the conversion now?
man, you are the king. Super cool and interesting video, please keep it up! love your channel!
Thanks man! I appreciate the kind words
Do you plan on using a reference zero to set the zero position of each axis?
30:12 looks like a pretty standard BB20/BB10 filter housing.
What was the total amount of money you spent for the whole machine as presented in this video (mill, upgrades, CPU, etc)? I would love to do something like this! I went to Precision Matthews website and it looks like they have plans to do CNC of their own. If your cost beats theirs I am willing to put in a little elbow grease.
Fantastic video. I'm getting a 833-TV delivered this week and a 1440GT lathe sometime Feb/March. I'm new to machining, so I'll run the mill manually for a short time to gain some skills. But, my plan was to CNC it...and, now I stumbled on your channel which literally is the best content and documentation for CNC converting this machine. Talk about lucky! I haven't touched Linux since college (~20 years ago), but I think I'll try LinuxCNC. I would have probably overlooked using servos, but since I'm starting from scratch, this may be the way to go. Are you seeing any downside using servos (besides cost)? Again, superb content.
The only downside is cost. The smoothness, speed, and power of a servo is far superior than a stepper. Before splurging on servos make sure you have a good vise and stay away from those aluminum flex couplers. Definitely check out my webpage on the CNC conversion. The wiring diagrams and example code should get your started. You can also post to the forum if you have any questions or want to share your conversion progress!
Awesome! great to see the journey. Apologies if I missed it anywhere - are you using R8 tooling or TTS holders for most of the work you are doing?
Thank man! 99% TTS holders. I have that 3" facing mill that is R8.
@@DrDFlo
Easy video idea maybe - tooling review and links etc for the mill. You buy from Tormach? How much spent into tooling and holders so far?
great videos. I am wondering if you can provide a link for the couplers that you have used.
www.mcmaster.com/2764K331/
Why do you clamping the part in the corner of the vise?
Hello David.... Just a quick question. Your original stepper for the Z-Axis had a 20 Nm rating. The A/C servo that you replaced it with is rated at 4.98 Nm. Was the reason for the 20 Nm stepper simply to provide enough detent torque or is there something else I am missing? Thanks... Richard
That’s exactly it. Just detent torque to hold the axis up. New servo has an electric brake
Dr D Flow, I just finished my conversion of my new 833TV (at your recommendation). Thought you may be interested in knowing you do not need to take the mill apart to change the ballscrews. Let me know and I can send a few pics how.
I responded to your post over on the forum
You can do 200ipm with steppers on a dovetail machine, the rapids on the pm940 I used to have were set to that and it was a limit of the speed of the steppers in my case. I would have liked to go faster. You should be able to crank those servos up even more than you think. The servo Tormachs do 300ipm rapids. You probably wouldn't see much benefit over 300 though as you have a relatively small work area.
It all depends on the gearing, microstepping and pulse generation time. Is it possible? Of course, but at 1/16 microstep (smooth motion, minimal resonance) it is difficult. For my old setup that would be 1,000 RPM (~50k pulses per second at 1/16 ustep - might not be possible for a lot of controllers). You could go to 1/8 or 1/4 ustep but resonance at probing speeds would be terrible. Also, steppers work best at that sub 500 range.
I'm sure you already knew that information. I just wanted to write it out for the beginner who is looking through the comments and trying to crank up the speeds on their steppers.
I think 200 IPM is good for my use case. Every part I make is a one-off, so every tool path is new. That 200 IPM gives me just enough time to hit the stop button if I made a mistake on the CAM side. When I start running multiple parts with validated tool paths, I will definitely be cranking up that speed to 300-350IPM.
What camera do you use? It looks great :)
Mixture of gopro7 and A7IIR
I bought the air blasting system but i didn't like the fact it blew chips all over the garage. With coolant most of the chips go down into a bucket.
See，nice！But the servo driver cannot be installed horizontally, which will affect the heat dissipation
Hi mate , just wondering, is it possible to have DC Servo?
10:56 oooof GoPro
The servo motor has a tachometer built-in as well.
what probe is that does it require conductivity?
Hi dear @Dr. D-Flo
Thanks for sharing another great project,That's awesome!
Can you tell me what is the advantage of using a servo motor over a stepper motor other than faster speed?
I knew you've used both of them, did you see significant improvement in accuracy and surface finish of machining parts with servo motors?
I'm going to build my own cnc mill and I doubt whether it is worth paying almost twice as much for a servo motor as a stepper motor.I think your experience help me a lot.
I started off with stepper motors and they worked great! The servo motors are smoother (no ringing and high resolution so better surface finish) have higher instantaneous torque (faster accelerations and quicker rapids) and provide positional feedback (they throw an error if you run into something). For these reason, I believe that servo motors are worth the 2x price, but as someone who was once just trying to get into the hobby without breaking the bank the stepper motors served me very well in the beginning.
@@DrDFlo Thanks Dr.
so appreciated
I don't know how gimmicky you'd consider it, but at least for 3d printers there are also closed loop stepper systems which are cheap and can come as kits for other motors as well as not cheap closed loop steppers.
I'm sure there are many reasons servo motors (which I think are usually brushless motors?! ) are better though (Edit: Which were covered directly after I made this comment). Just thought I'd be the one to post the inevitable comment because they weren't talked about directly.
Might be silly - typically with electrical devices like the servo drive unit. They are intended to be mounted vertically such that heat can rise up. There will usually be a drawing in the manual that shows minimum spacing from enclosure and other units. With your config the top most drive will get the hot air from the lower two units.
I don't know if I showed it, but there are two fans blowing air right across the drives. The airflow is parallel to the fins on the drives, which is why I mounted them that way. Hopefully that will take care most of the heat, but I will keep this in mind next time!
@@DrDFlo makes sense and is totally fine if you have active convection. A lot of cabinets are only passive and it’s something that can lead to early component failure.
In industrial land a lot of electrical cabinets have a to be “UL certified” for installation. Part of that certification is that all components that are UL listed must be installed per the mfgr recommendation in order to be compliant.
Dayum, that vise must have been a pretty penny. I'm sure she was like " I'll buy you a vise, how much does it cost?"... jaw drop.
Fogbuster. What have you found to be the best the supply pressure and flow rate needed to supply the Fogbuster?
Nobody seems to speak to this critical specification on the FBuster which is needed to properly size an air compressor.
I noticed your 2hp California Air tools compressor in the video. I assume that has worked well for your setup. Any insights on this would be helpful. Great video.
I don't have a flow meter, but when I run it at 15PSI my 2hp california air compressor kicks on every 10 minutes or so, but has no problem keeping up.
why didn't you key the ball screw shaft
Are you powering your 7i76e solely from 24v? Do you have it directly tied to your 24v psu and not to the estop?
Yes solely 24V and not currently tired to my e-stop
@@DrDFlo Okie cool, just making sure. The mesa stuff doesn't like being on a switched supply. I'm doing the same with estop killing my contactors, but I've got my mesa mainlined as well 👌👌
3 power supplies, 3 contactors and 6 EMI filters? Am I missing something? No one does that. For that cost I would have used one large filter for the drives and another for the PSUs and one contactor before it all. The drives all have their own filter inside them so crosstalk noise between them is no concern. Check out page 23 of the servo drive manual to see this layout.
Are you purely killing the AC with that E Stop? That is not the best or safest because of the power down delay it will cause. Consider adding in a connection to the drive enables and ideally you should add an actual safety relay to make sure all your contactors are working and not stuck closed.
That's a nice little mill now, my personal one is still running Gecko Stepper Drives.
Hey man! Appreciate the input. First off the 3 power supplies are as follow: 24V, 24V, 5V. I am actually not using the 5V power supply. I bought it just in case I had peripherals that wanted 5V. That hasn't been the case yet and I am more or less just storing it in the enclosure. One of the 24V power supplies is for the Z-axis motor brake. I was told by the technical lead over at DMM that the brake is noisy and it should use a separate power supply from the Mesa and DYN4 IO, which is what the second 24V PSU supplies. Also, the brake requires ~2A and those DIN compatible power supplies only put out 2.5A.
Also, according to DMM's video and technical schematics each drive needs its own line filter: czcams.com/video/YC04zuUjEK8/video.html Yes its overkill, but the price of the drives >> line filters, so I followed the schematic closely.
Man people are giving me a hard time about this E-stop. I will only hit it if and when the machine crashes. I'm not using it as a power switch lol. The drives are enabled and disabled when LinuxCNC begins and terminates, respectively.
Would love to see some pictures of your mill! Post it over on my forum if you get a chance
Quick question. It appears that most of your tools were in TTS ER tool holders, but the face mil appears to have an R8 holder. How do you maintain repeatable Z height with the R8 tooling?
I don’t use my old R8 mill anymore. I use a tormach shear hog
@@DrDFlo Thanks... That makes sense.
The servo motor also has a tachometer built into it
easy solution for couplers is not using them. shaft couplers needed if you have any misalignment between two shafts but if your setup is well aligned - you don't need flexible couplers.
Did you get the probing to work with probe basic? And spindle load graph working? I got a mill retrofitted with Linux Cnc with probe basic. Although probe basic looks and feels good and fresh had some trouble with customizing the interface compared with the other guis. But probe basic is really what Linux CNC needs. Hopefully it will continue to evolve. Great video.
Its still a very new GUI, but the guys developing it are incredibly smart. Probing works fine for me. My Motor control is analogue and not wired to mesa board, so no comment on the spindle load graph
@@DrDFlo Your spindle VFD may have an analog output that the 7i76e could read, and LinuxCNC display the load. You're a great professor.
@@kentvandervelden Appreciate the comment! I am going to be switching that VFD out here real shortly with a proper vectorless VFD and then I will have full control! Mwuaha
Ok, I have a question and need help. I saw you on the Fasterproms channel and subscribed here as I figured you may have the answer. I have a 7 year old Replicator 2 3d printer. I've not used it in ages but went to dig it out the other month. Apparently the software only runs on WinXP. What slicing/processing software to get to .x3g files would you recommend? Please help! I need to print some steering arms out for my son's remote control car!
Just helped another person with this problem! Go to www.makerbot.com/3d-printers/apps/makerbot-print/download/ and scroll down to legacy printer support. That is the software you want for the Replicator 2
@@DrDFlo Oh that's superb! Thanks!! I'll be off up the workshop a bit later to give that a go! Superb!
Are you able to do a video on the setup of the MESA card and why you chose it?
It’s kind of a quick story! Mesa card and LinuxCNC go together like peanut butter and Jelly. Most control systems are based off LinuxCNC (for example, Tormach’s path pilot) and I didn’t want to pay a premium for a CNC mill controller running a version of LinuxCNC when I could install and configure myself.
Mesa cards are incredibly easy to configure. First you need to choose which ip assignment you want (default 192.168.1.121, 10.10.10.1 or a custom ip, I recommend the 10.x.x.x to preserve wifi capability for updates), run through the pncconf wizard and set up a static ip for wired connection on your pc. Debian is not much different than windows with ip assignments, there's no scary command lines you need to use and pncconf kinda guides you along with your io assignments.
Personally, I went with the mesa 7i76e because it had 16 outputs and 32 inputs - coming from a Gecko g540 with 4 inputs and 2 outputs, I felt like a kid in a candy store with all of the neat things I could do with all of that IO. I went from using a PlayStation controller for all of my stuff to planning out a control panel with physical buttons, jog mpg, feed and rapid potentiometers and axis/resolution selector switches, simply because I can ;)
@@TheFeralEngineer Thanks for the info. I see you have a few videos going over some of the content I need. subbed!
Did you kill your drewtronics probe? What probe are you using now and why the change?
Hallmark ITTP probe now. Drewtronics stopped working on me after a couple weeks of releasing that first video. The electrodes didn’t look oxidized but I was also having trouble maintaining concentricity between tool changes, so I switched probes. I was just doing too much work at the time to get to the bottom of it
Use linear encoders on axis and backslash will not affect you
Those couplers are $85 each. Is their a cheaper option?
Ballscrew lubrication?
Have you done a detailed video on mesa cards and linuxcnc?
No I have not. There is just so much information on LinuxCNC and Mesa cards that it would be really hard to organize that content into a video. I have put a lot of effort into the project page on this CNC mill that walks through installing linuxcnc, minimizing latency, selecting a Mesa board, wiring said Mesa board, and configuring the LinuxCNC files to get everything working. Check it out here: www.drdflo.com/pages/Projects/CNC-Mill.html
Is it possible to integrate glass scales into use with the encoder?
Only if amplifier is designed to use them as the second feedback loop. Any DIY attempts are bound to fail due backlash, lack of ridgidity, etc
Awesome conversion! Where did you source the ball screws?
Thanks! They came with the kit: www.heavymetalcnc.com/pm833t/
@@DrDFlo is that a link to the upgraded ball screws? They look different from the heavymetalcnc ones
@@devinmoodley4061 You have to purchase the "premium" ball screw kit
I just would like to know where can I get a nice enclosure box like the ones you get? All I can find are insanely expensive ones!
ANYBODY KNOW BEST PLACE FOR LARGE ENCLOSURES????
Awesome!
Hello, what is the difference in speed relative to the stepper motor?
Slight oversimplification but steppers operate best when run at
Although DDM provides this wiring diagram to e-stop the drives I would not recommend it. Every drive has an enable pin or other safety relay/pin that can be used to disable the drive and motor. By doing so the drive can stop the motor in a more controlled way and dissipate its energy which otherwise could build up and potentially destroy the electronics.
I don’t hit the E-stop to turn off the motors. But you should always have a way to quickly cut power to the drives in case of an unexpected event. What if the drive starts acting erratically? Cutting the enable signal might not disable the drive. In normal operation LinuxCNC disables the drive whenever I close the GUI or click the power off button
Totally agree that you need to be able to turn the drive off in case of any unexpected move but drive specific functions like Safe Torque Off should do this. I am just not a fan of disrupting electronics when they are using a fair amount of power/amps because why would one need a safety circuit if it is not safe anyway but perhaps that is just my opinion. Looking forward to your next video(s) about the ball screws and further upgrades 😉
Yes I understand what you are saying 👍 As always, I appreciate your input! See you in the next video
2:29 i am guessing Linear ballways?
35:45, this is just incorrect programming in CAM tho, can be easily reprogrammed in more efficient way. In Fusion 360 for example you can choose to finish one hole entirely, and only then to proceed to next one.
38:57 do you have a potentiometer connected to the mesa board as an feed override?
I do not! New VFD incoming soon
@manmadedesaster I do ✋. Rapid and feed. Might do one for spindle as well. I have my 7i76e configured for inputs 1-4 to be analog and the first 4 inputs on my tb5 set up for jog encoders (sserial_port_0=20xxxx in loadrt hm_2eth)
Wouldnt it be better to have the position of the table be reported to the controller, like on a DRO. Sure the servo will report its position correctly but how do we know thats transmitted correctly into the table, ie if theres backlash.
Im surprised theres no way to hook the DRO scales into these control boards.
There is a 13 year old video on my channel that shows why you don't, the video is called Servo stutter. It's a very old commercial setup on a bridgeport made by acu-rite, with glass scales for feedback on servos.
There will be some backlash somewhere, and the servo drive will not hold any sort of position while it wallows around in a little deadzone. You might be able to tune around this, but I doubt it.
I've ran some nice quarter million dollar machines that had scale feedback which don't have this problem, but those aren't very common. Pretty much the remainder of machines only have feedback on the servo, and they do just fine.
OHHH Voron Parts ???? lol :)
to avoid ringing, use a digital controller any analog controllers have ringing.
Sir do have servo motor cnc wiring diagram sir please