Yeah. They had different depths. And I was working on this a little at a time during the day. If I made this into a product I would re-order the tool paths and turn up the feeds and speeds
@@NerdlyCNCI do the same thing .as a shop owner I have a million different things I have to do and if I’m only making 1 piece as long as it comes out right when I’m done who cares 😂😂😂
@@NerdlyCNCand the rest! Carbide drills are happy running 0.1mm/rev in smaller sizes without CTS. I guess I run larger CTS drills in the 0.3-0.5mm/rev area in alu. Basically don't peck with a carbide drill unless you have a reason to do so. In alu at least, you will be getting 10s to 100s of thousands of holes out of them at these speeds
Love the content beother as a machinist myself love watching others picking up tips if you dont mind me asking i was wondering if you wouldn't mind giving me the name of the stone you use. Cheers for any info 👍
@@NerdlyCNC suppose I can just bump the fixture plate a bit. I made all my fixtures with adjustment in mind any ways. If I’m doing something super critical I turn the jaws around to the solid side anyways cuz indicating the inserts never seems to work out.
i very rarely "window frame" parts. I like to take 2D contours in one Depth of cut when possible. I didnt show it but i was leaving tabs. I think there is a video on my IG
Liked the video until I saw that you were using SWM modular vices. Using two screws on a vice is a terrible design flaw. The vice's clamping force is both a function of the torque applied on BOTH the clamping bolts and if the torque is not identical, the force exerted on the part will not be the same across the jaws. It is a terrible design and as a machine shop owner/operator, I highly recommend that people do NOT go that route.
As a machine shop owner/operator, I think they have their place and I don’t regret buying them. You do have to use some care in making sure the pressure is even, but if you go through their procedure for setting them up, you basically just tighten the two screws a quarter to half turn until they kind of bottom out. But I always tighten them in at least two steps to keep it more even. These days, I only use them for weird setups, sometimes 4 or six of them all around a plate instead of clamps. I’ve tossed as many parts from my Kurt’s as I have the mod vises. You have to take some care with Kurt style vises as well-when you have material that will really deform under the pressure that a 6” vise is capable of. With the SMW vises, you can easily set them up so they can’t go past 0.010” (or whatever you choose) of deflection. Standard Kurt style vises will also have uneven pressure from left to right depending on what you are holding on to and it’s position. Also, the talon grips built into the vise jaws leave some room for uneven pressure (1st op).
Wasting time...a waste in drilling!If I programm like this ...the company next day sends me ...home sweet home. For tapping ..you must use forming tap tool...to avoid the chip...use straight tap tool..not helicoidal😅
Very nice, but i wanted to slap your programming hand for calling up the chamfer tool 3 separate times lol.
Yeah. They had different depths. And I was working on this a little at a time during the day.
If I made this into a product I would re-order the tool paths and turn up the feeds and speeds
@@NerdlyCNCI do the same thing .as a shop owner I have a million different things I have to do and if I’m only making 1 piece as long as it comes out right when I’m done who cares 😂😂😂
Nice result! Happy new year🎉
Yeah thats a cool and interesting setup, curious to hear what the advantages might be over typical 6" vises, tho I can imagine a few.
None
that will come in clutch one day with a project.
Hey, if you had thru spindle coolant would you drill all the way instead of with a retract? Btw - my machine was delivered this week.
Yes.
with TSC - it i would probaby drill these in one shot at 40-50 ipm minimum.
got it! can't wait to get mine up and running.
@@NerdlyCNC
@@NerdlyCNCand the rest! Carbide drills are happy running 0.1mm/rev in smaller sizes without CTS. I guess I run larger CTS drills in the 0.3-0.5mm/rev area in alu.
Basically don't peck with a carbide drill unless you have a reason to do so. In alu at least, you will be getting 10s to 100s of thousands of holes out of them at these speeds
Love the content beother as a machinist myself love watching others picking up tips if you dont mind me asking i was wondering if you wouldn't mind giving me the name of the stone you use. Cheers for any info 👍
amzn.to/3vi5v5r
Weird. I was gonna start working on a pallet for my mod vise later. Fixture plate is dead on but vice is still off.
same here....thats why i removed the fixture plate...i may sell it....TM0P 4140
@@NerdlyCNC suppose I can just bump the fixture plate a bit. I made all my fixtures with adjustment in mind any ways. If I’m doing something super critical I turn the jaws around to the solid side anyways cuz indicating the inserts never seems to work out.
Question is there any benefit of ridgid taping now days over using modern thread mills?
What size material did you use and what feed and speed for your face mill.Thanks
Your 2d contour at the end, do you ever ramp down your contours say .04" per pass rather than plunging down .04" all at once and slotting?
you mean for the counterbores?
@@NerdlyCNC no I mean on the brass part at the end
i very rarely "window frame" parts.
I like to take 2D contours in one Depth of cut when possible. I didnt show it but i was leaving tabs. I think there is a video on my IG
No spot drilling😢
Depends on tip angle. I use YG-1 drills is Aluminium and they have a 140° tip angle, specifically so no spot drilling is required.
You rarely need to spot drill with carbide. (You can also buy them with pretty high accuracy specs, so even reaming might not be needed in many cases)
Liked the video until I saw that you were using SWM modular vices. Using two screws on a vice is a terrible design flaw. The vice's clamping force is both a function of the torque applied on BOTH the clamping bolts and if the torque is not identical, the force exerted on the part will not be the same across the jaws. It is a terrible design and as a machine shop owner/operator, I highly recommend that people do NOT go that route.
As a machine shop owner/operator, I think they have their place and I don’t regret buying them. You do have to use some care in making sure the pressure is even, but if you go through their procedure for setting them up, you basically just tighten the two screws a quarter to half turn until they kind of bottom out. But I always tighten them in at least two steps to keep it more even. These days, I only use them for weird setups, sometimes 4 or six of them all around a plate instead of clamps.
I’ve tossed as many parts from my Kurt’s as I have the mod vises. You have to take some care with Kurt style vises as well-when you have material that will really deform under the pressure that a 6” vise is capable of. With the SMW vises, you can easily set them up so they can’t go past 0.010” (or whatever you choose) of deflection. Standard Kurt style vises will also have uneven pressure from left to right depending on what you are holding on to and it’s position.
Also, the talon grips built into the vise jaws leave some room for uneven pressure (1st op).
Always, of course 😂🙄
Wasting time...a waste in drilling!If I programm like this ...the company next day sends me ...home sweet home.
For tapping ..you must use forming tap tool...to avoid the chip...use straight tap tool..not helicoidal😅