Identifying a One Gang Two Way Light Switch
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- čas přidán 10. 11. 2020
- Student training aid for how to identify basic electrical accessories. In this video we look at a 1 gang 2 way light switch. It’s important in the early stages of training to be an electrician to be able to Identify recognise and name accessories.
This video has been designed to go on the CZcams shelf as a short video in portrait mode.
Videos are training aids for City and Guilds (C and G) and EAL courses Level 1, 2 and 3.
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Exactly what I was looking for. Many thanks.
Good for students
Thank you.
Thank you
You're welcome 😂
So I’m looking a putting some smart switches in the bedrooms and the switch your showing is what’s in there currently on the smart switch there’s L L1 L2 and L3 dose the common from the old switch go in L then the old L1 and L2 go in the new L1 and L2 would be really help full if you could help with this 👍👍👍
No.
The problem you have got is that smart switches often require a live (or line) and neutral to provide power to the electronics of the smart switch. And at most light switch positions in UK, there is no neutral wire.
The way a traditional UK light works is the switch is a single pole single throw switch (SPST) placed into the live wire. And the wire then runs up to the light bulb. The neutral is up in the ceiling rose.
It is still possible to have home automation for the lights in this configuration without a neutral but there tends to be a limitation: the light bulb has to be an 230 volt incandescent type, so that the return path for the current for the home automation switch passes through the light bulb itself when not illuminated.
But as you can't buy incandescents these days that's not really an option any more.
So you want to check the wiring and ensure you have a permanent neutral wire at the ligh switch position. And if you don't, then you'll need to have some rewiring done.
Good answer
Yes!?
@deang5622 I've worked on site since '92 (16th,17th & 18th Edition Reg's) & the 'neutral' is either at the light fitting or in the box where the switch is, so you don't need to do some rewire the neutral is actually part of the radial in place Why do you Over Complicate the Process or do you just like Overcharging Your Clients with work that isn't Needed, In the 90's we wired the Live pair to the light fitting then a live twin & earth to the switch then because of the cost of copper (come 2003 ish) we wired to the switch the Live pair & a single twin & earth double brown to the light fitting marking 5 lines on the Live pair & an x on the double brown with lines to indicate if they were the outside lights,down lights,under cupboard lights etc.....the 2nd way used less wire, How do you like long pointless babble about Common Sense Wiring things
in most places just use L1 and common, ignore L2.
What if you use L2 and ignore L1?
@@m101ist light switch will operate the other way round as there is a usual on and off position they would just be flipped
So this would mean that this particular switch controls 2 different lights (or various lights on 2 separate connections)?
No. It mean you can control one light with two switches. Like a hallway light that you turn of from up stairs and down stairs.
often used for lights on stairways for example
Please help. I have 2 switches one has fridge written on it and the other washing machine. I want to get a chrome socket now. I can't see fully but there are a few wires connected inside what do I need to ask or look for. Would it be a 13A fused spur for both? I'm just looking on screwfix site. Thank you.
switched spur 20A rating
Thank you @@brianlopez8855
Thanks but a lot of switches in UK have L1 and L2 labelled up wrong and are not right for the conventional on position for.a 1 gang switch..
Don’t worry about it. Just use a continuity tester to prove that when the switch is in one position, C is continuous with L1 and in the other position C is linked to L2. You take control.
Commonly abbreviated as a 1g2w switch
Hi i have the same one shown in your video , i have an issue , the existing light SWITCH shows 2 red wires in L1 , a blue and black wire in L2 , and yellow into the com , but the new switch has L1 L2 L3 L4 no com , in simple terms what has to be done thanks
You have the wrong switch that is an intermediate sw for 3 way switching
You can use it but different manufacturers are different so I wouldn’t be able to help
L1 and L2 each provide alternate feeds to the light, used on staircases commonly
1g2w switch
I did this now only one light works I changed kitchen one works fine sittingroom wont switch on
Do you now understand why?
use L1 and common ignore L2
What, no click bang crunch tap noises……
What goes into "common"?
PL
for a two way common is live then the two Ls go to the two Ls at the other swich then that common goes to the lamp and from there to neutral.
@@fivish yes mate I know PL is permanent live
@@fivishWrong.
If you are using a 2 way light switch as a single way, that is a 2 way light switch in a circuit comprising a single switch, THEN the COM is connected to live.
If you are using a 2 way light for the purpose it is intended, where you have two of the 2 way switches present, then the COM on one switch connects to the COM on the other switch.
There is another wiring configuration possible for 2 way switches when 2 of them are used but it is going to very difficult to explain.
If you want to understand how to wire up these switches there are plenty of diagrammatic examples on rhe internet.
It is not worth trying to explain it through text. Go seek out a diagram.
The phase from the loop if you are doing the 3 plate ceiling rose method
SO how did it change... ? when you turned it round. WTF
Annoying that that L1 and L2 aren't labelled up as "no" and "nc" for "normally open" and "normally closed" (or vice-versa), which is the standard terminology for switches throughout the English speaking world apart, it appears, for light switches.
No.
You can't have a switch that is both NC and NO at the same time. It can be one or the other.
And these switches, are actually neither.
You can leave the switch in any position for any length of time. There is no normal position for them.
They are change over switches.
The issue you have with the switch is that you can't tell by looking at it which switch position causes the connection to be made between COM -> L1 or COM -> L2.
That's the problem. There is nothing on the switch to indicate that.
But then I imagine the argument is, that they are standard light switches and the meaning of COM, L1, L2 is standardised across the manufacturers, so if you follow standard lighting circuits and the diagrams showing how to wire them up for a two way light circuit, then you will always get the right result and you don't need to worry about whether COM connects to L1 or L2 and the corresponding switch position.
@@deang5622 Clearly a switch can't be both NO and NC, but as that's not what I'm talking that's simply an invention in your head. It's the terminals that are NC and NO, and it's standard marking for things like relays and many other types of switches. The NO terminal is the one that is open when the switch is in the "off" position and NC when it's in the off position. Now it may well be that light switches in the UK aren't marked that way, but life would be a easier if the convention was followed. It's a nuisance having to use a meter to test which way is which.
Yes, they can be left in one position of the other, but the "off" position is the default. Of course it means having a standard orientation too.
You make a good argument, but the chances are that when you’re fitting a switch, you’ve probably got a small, easy to carry, quick to use continuity tester close by, making it a couple of seconds work to prove it to yourself whether common is connected to L1 or L2 in either position.
I probably could have proven 10 different brands in the time it’s taken to write this response… to a 6 month old comment… at 1am… wtf have I become?