Thank you Kalle. You make the hobby so interesting by giving your advice. As a hobbyist I am able now, as a result of your videos, to use the information and apply it to my own circumstances. So pleased to be part of your circle.
I'm a hobby watch/clock maker and recently purchased the Asian copy of the tool. It comes with the large set of inserts ranging in between 0.7mm - 3mm in 0.1mm increments (total 24 insert pairs). The shafts on the inserts are 4mm. With shipping and tax I paid $149 US for the set. I checked the precision of the fit in the tool with a number of the insert pairs and they fit precisely with no slop / play in the tool. The inserts fit together with no slop or binding. The moving shaft in the tool has zero slop / shake / play to it.. The only thing I found was as you stated that there is slop / wobble in the threads on the thimble, but there is zero slop / wobble in the rest of the tool which I believe to be the most critical part. When turning the thimble it's a nice smooth feel. You don't notice the wobble unless you grab it near the tip and move it back and forth horizontally. The body of the tool appears to be cast iron, or some other heavy steel and it comes with a very nice paint finish. It has a good solid heavy feel on the bench.
In my experience those will not reach a center wheel jewel on a pocket watch, but it does seem to be a great starter tool when restricted to that price range.
Hi Kalle, i have both clone tools staking, jeweling, they're ok, the jeweling tool is a 4mm one and comes with quite a few bits and anvils, there is one that comes with movement holders that protect the centre seconds jewel with an adjustable post, great video Kalle, always enjoy watching mate. Dave
Hello and thank you for making this fine video Kalle. I am very new to Horology and I am not a polyglot. I learn every time I watch your videos and I am very happy that you have so much out there! This was very educational for a beginner like me who has yet to take a watch apart. However watching a true professional like yourself is just fantastic. Again thank you for going over these tools and for your complete and thorough explanations.
I saw a rare and very cool set on eBay called a Manhora from France. It was a staking tool and Seitz tool in one and only went for $600 or so. The whole set!.
Great video thanks. One tool you have not mentioned is the US made K&D Inverto Staking set. The full versions also has friction jeweling tools and micrometer adjustment. The company is long gone but many very fine examples survive and it is a very high quality tool that can do riveting, staff removal and jeweling. Full sets are scarce especially for the jeweling reamers. I use the Favorite mostly for two reasons you did not mention: 1) The reams are pentagonal and more likely to maintain centers 2) The plate holding jigs are much better than regular Seitz and Horia does not have them. These are important of you do pocket and other larger watches,at least for me.
Is the quality of each piece relatively high for the price? How is the free play in the tool itself? Are there any shortcomings at all? I’d imagine so consider the difference in price.
very nice video Kalle - very good explanation and intro. Can you make a video on tool and equipment cleaning (e.g. wiping down with alcohol etc on a regular basis) to prevent accumulation of grime etc. Years of use can cause build of gunk. Thank you
i have a chinese one that i bought when i started in my hobby. later bought the real one. although the chinese one does work i haven't used it since i got the horia. completely different experience.
I have all the different brands and I like the horia the most 🙂 same for the lever operated horia it just feels way more solid and rigid than the Seitz. The favorite is almost the same as the horia both attachments and operation
Hi Kalle, thank you for another great video. One important bit of information which I only learned last year is that there is an accessory for all but the oldest 3mm Seitz jewelling presses that screws on top of the micrometer stop, turning the tool into a screw driven pusher like a Horia tool. You remove the handle, fit the accessory and you have a screw press. The accessory is in the larger deluxe Seitz sets. If you look inside the micrometer stop section of your Bergeon branded Seitz tool you will see the threads that the accessory fits into. For such a widely used tool, it is incredible that so many watchmakers (including myself until recently) are unaware of this. If you want to see the accessory in use, Alex Hamilton of the Watch Repair Tutorials webpage has an excellent Horia vs Seitz comparison video where he demonstrates this little known feature of the Seitz tool. I do use the measurement scale when replacing cracked jewels. I measure the depth of the old jewel, push it out and install the replacement to the same depth as a starting point and adjust the end shake from there if necessary. For me the 0.01mm graduations of the Seitz are superior to the 0.02mm graduations of the Horia.
Hi Kalle, I recently purchased the clone sets on ebay staking, jeweling about a month apart, first watch I fixed after had to adjust all the train bridge jewels and another needed hammer time, cheers for all the advice you put in videos Kalle thank you. Dave from the UK
It’s great advice. I bought a Seitz a few years ago from eBay and it didn’t have the reaming adaptor (in the side of the plastic holder). I didn’t even know it should have been there, to ask the question ☺️ Managed to find one online though 👍
Thank you Kalle 👍. I have one of the Chinese clones and it seems pretty decent so far , also been lucky enough to pick up a very old Seitz set as well to clean up though I may need to buy a couple of pump pushers. Practicing has been aligned very much with your use examples coincidentally.
Hi Kalle. Thanks for the most informative videos. I would like to become a member but cannot find the join button. I have looked everywhere. Perhaps you could send me a screen shot as where to find the join button. Many thanks Stan
It is incorrect that the Seitz tool doesn't allow for micrometer insertion. In fact, there is a simple accessory that makes it into an even more precise (1/100mm) than the Horia tool (1/50mm). You should get it for your set if you prefer this method!
Kalle... Kalle... Poljot 3133 sturmanski kalle... From opening the stuborn snap off caseback, service, overhaul etc, to closing back the caseback... I would like to hear your opinion about the underrated legendary russian 3133... ❤❤
Vintage Time Australia's "[TECH] - Installing BARREL Arbor Jewels on SEIKO 6139" is a good tutorial/overview. Just brace yourself for the change of accent. ;-)
i like saving money !!! bedankt kalle ! ik heb de horia van mijn oom mogen erven en is me enorm dierbaar en ja heeft me een hoop geld bespaardgelukkig jij gebruik de meet indicatie ook niet idd gevoel!!
11:57 "If you're a bit handy on the lathe it's so easy to make them yourselves!" Do show us! Please! 😂😂😂
thank you Kalle
Thank you Kalle. You make the hobby so interesting by giving your advice. As a hobbyist I am able now, as a result of your videos, to use the information and apply it to my own circumstances. So pleased to be part of your circle.
Excellent tool video! Keep em coming.... 😊
I modified an old micrometer to take my seitz pushers, works a treat.
I'm a hobby watch/clock maker and recently purchased the Asian copy of the tool.
It comes with the large set of inserts ranging in between 0.7mm - 3mm in 0.1mm increments (total 24 insert pairs). The shafts on the inserts are 4mm.
With shipping and tax I paid $149 US for the set.
I checked the precision of the fit in the tool with a number of the insert pairs and they fit precisely with no slop / play in the tool. The inserts fit together with no slop or binding.
The moving shaft in the tool has zero slop / shake / play to it..
The only thing I found was as you stated that there is slop / wobble in the threads on the thimble, but there is zero slop / wobble in the rest of the tool which I believe to be the most critical part. When turning the thimble it's a nice smooth feel. You don't notice the wobble unless you grab it near the tip and move it back and forth horizontally.
The body of the tool appears to be cast iron, or some other heavy steel and it comes with a very nice paint finish. It has a good solid heavy feel on the bench.
In my experience those will not reach a center wheel jewel on a pocket watch, but it does seem to be a great starter tool when restricted to that price range.
Hi Kalle, i have both clone tools staking, jeweling, they're ok, the jeweling tool is a 4mm one and comes with quite a few bits and anvils, there is one that comes with movement holders that protect the centre seconds jewel with an adjustable post, great video Kalle, always enjoy watching mate. Dave
Hello and thank you for making this fine video Kalle. I am very new to Horology and I am not a polyglot. I learn every time I watch your videos and I am very happy that you have so much out there! This was very educational for a beginner like me who has yet to take a watch apart. However watching a true professional like yourself is just fantastic. Again thank you for going over these tools and for your complete and thorough explanations.
I saw a rare and very cool set on eBay called a Manhora from France. It was a staking tool and Seitz tool in one and only went for $600 or so. The whole set!.
Thanks Kalle always take something away from your clips. I’m struggling to learn as much as possible and am just starting my journey to making a watch
Your channel is one of my favorites. I love your enthusiasm for the Art!
Great video thanks.
One tool you have not mentioned is the US made K&D Inverto Staking set. The full versions also has friction jeweling tools and micrometer adjustment. The company is long gone but many very fine examples survive and it is a very high quality tool that can do riveting, staff removal and jeweling. Full sets are scarce especially for the jeweling reamers.
I use the Favorite mostly for two reasons you did not mention:
1) The reams are pentagonal and more likely to maintain centers
2) The plate holding jigs are much better than regular Seitz and Horia does not have them. These are important of you do pocket and other larger watches,at least for me.
Kalle - It's around $150 for the clone Horia tool. It comes complete with the all of the anvils and pushers. I have one it works fine.
Is the quality of each piece relatively high for the price? How is the free play in the tool itself? Are there any shortcomings at all? I’d imagine so consider the difference in price.
very nice video Kalle - very good explanation and intro. Can you make a video on tool and equipment cleaning (e.g. wiping down with alcohol etc on a regular basis) to prevent accumulation of grime etc. Years of use can cause build of gunk. Thank you
Thanks
i have a chinese one that i bought when i started in my hobby. later bought the real one. although the chinese one does work i haven't used it since i got the horia. completely different experience.
I have all the different brands and I like the horia the most 🙂 same for the lever operated horia it just feels way more solid and rigid than the Seitz. The favorite is almost the same as the horia both attachments and operation
Hi Kalle, thank you for another great video.
One important bit of information which I only learned last year is that there is an accessory for all but the oldest 3mm Seitz jewelling presses that screws on top of the micrometer stop, turning the tool into a screw driven pusher like a Horia tool.
You remove the handle, fit the accessory and you have a screw press.
The accessory is in the larger deluxe Seitz sets.
If you look inside the micrometer stop section of your Bergeon branded Seitz tool you will see the threads that the accessory fits into.
For such a widely used tool, it is incredible that so many watchmakers (including myself until recently) are unaware of this.
If you want to see the accessory in use, Alex Hamilton of the Watch Repair Tutorials webpage has an excellent Horia vs Seitz comparison video where he demonstrates this little known feature of the Seitz tool.
I do use the measurement scale when replacing cracked jewels. I measure the depth of the old jewel, push it out and install the replacement to the same depth as a starting point and adjust the end shake from there if necessary. For me the 0.01mm graduations of the Seitz are superior to the 0.02mm graduations of the Horia.
I would love to own a genuine Horia one day, but for now the Chinese knockoff does a decent job. Thanks for the helpful content Kalle!
Cool tool
Thanks again Kalle. Another interesting and informative stream. Always a pleasure to watch.
Hi Kalle, I recently purchased the clone sets on ebay staking, jeweling about a month apart, first watch I fixed after had to adjust all the train bridge jewels and another needed hammer time, cheers for all the advice you put in videos Kalle thank you. Dave from the UK
As always very intersting and informative content. Thank-you Kalle!
It’s great advice. I bought a Seitz a few years ago from eBay and it didn’t have the reaming adaptor (in the side of the plastic holder). I didn’t even know it should have been there, to ask the question ☺️
Managed to find one online though 👍
Thank you Kalle 👍. I have one of the Chinese clones and it seems pretty decent so far , also been lucky enough to pick up a very old Seitz set as well to clean up though I may need to buy a couple of pump pushers. Practicing has been aligned very much with your use examples coincidentally.
Nice content mate 🇺🇸🥃🏌🏽♂️
Kalle great video! really good insights on Horia vs Seitz tool. Which set of Horia anvils and pushers did you recommend?
Hi Kalle. Thanks for the most informative videos. I would like to become a member but cannot find the join button. I have looked everywhere. Perhaps you could send me a screen shot as where to find the join button. Many thanks Stan
Hi I got the Chinese version it did the trick for me it cost less than 200 pounds
It is incorrect that the Seitz tool doesn't allow for micrometer insertion. In fact, there is a simple accessory that makes it into an even more precise (1/100mm) than the Horia tool (1/50mm). You should get it for your set if you prefer this method!
Kalle... Kalle... Poljot 3133 sturmanski kalle... From opening the stuborn snap off caseback, service, overhaul etc, to closing back the caseback... I would like to hear your opinion about the underrated legendary russian 3133... ❤❤
Nice but can we see them in action, and when would you use 2 different sizes 3 and 4?
Vintage Time Australia's "[TECH] - Installing BARREL Arbor Jewels on SEIKO 6139" is a good tutorial/overview. Just brace yourself for the change of accent. ;-)
@@wargamingrefugee9065 Thanks I just watched it.
How do I become a member? many thanks.
Click the white "Join" button to the right of the channel name beneath the video's title.
Horses for courses :=)
Got the Seitz and the China tool both work great but use the Seitz just trust it when jeweling😊 the Horia is not worth $400+
У меня три швейцарских пинцета и обхожусь этим уже 35 лет. Остальной инструмент Советский и Китайский....
i like saving money !!! bedankt kalle ! ik heb de horia van mijn oom mogen erven en is me enorm dierbaar en ja heeft me een hoop geld bespaardgelukkig jij gebruik de meet indicatie ook niet idd gevoel!!
Thanks
That is so nice Stanley!! 🙏🍀