Take it apart and make sure it's right to handle the boost. make sure you replace the o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube they get hard and suck air and will cause oil pressure issues. Can't wait to see the videos on this build thanks Matt
I would send the heads out to a machine shop to get a valve job and replace the springs to ls6 springs for a bigger cam. You might as well give the engine a basic refresh with rings and bearings and a quick hone.
I like your plan to pull the heads and do the piston/ring work. Gives you an opportunity to check out the lower end as well. Found it interesting the amount of color difference between the left and right heads ... Maybe it was just the camera?
Hi Matt. Interesting you ask our opinions. I largely agree with most but especially Mac McMillian. If you are going to turbo charge this engine with 140K on it I'd rebuild it - top to bottom end. Going from stock to 500 bhp something will give very quickly if tolerances/setup are not good. Plus if budget allows we all want to see you rebuild beauty.
So if you put 100 PSI in a cylinder... it won't leak faster? I would think the rate at which something leaks would definitely depend on the amount of pressure pushing against it.
Is there a minimum allowable percent leakage, or should it be zero? If it were my motor, and given that it has 140k on it, I'd refresh the whole motor (lower end, cylinders, top end, all new bearings, semi-blueprinted or completely blue-printed, etc). As long as the motor is already out and you're not on a tight budget, that would be my plan of attack.
for turbo what's the amount of ring gap here, does it depend on boost, or ring material or what guideline is there for gap, is there an equation for this so we can all benefit without having to find the hard way? also if go to the trouble to do this are you putting fire rings or sleeves in the bores? What level of boost and are you then going to use ARP 'like' studs? and it you change the pistons and rods what about the crank, and the oil pump? are you adding oil squirts for the pistons? Are you adding a new pump? I mean I ask because a turbo kit is all kinds of additional math involved? what about just boring it and adding a came and some nice headers? probably just as much HP and much less work?
Have you put some oil in the cylinders to see whether this has any effect on the leak-down? It looks as though the valves ARE the main culprit, so I suggest just taking off and doing valves, the rings may be fine, also if you want to boost up this engine, if the rings are a bit worn they will have the extra ring gap that you want already... Just saying.
Get a 10.0 crate big block with huge tunnel ram with blower , turbo charger , nitrous , biggest carbs that’ll breathe hell out of the exhaust and dump truck rear axle so when you Trump on it the world will rotate under you..
Take it apart and make sure it's right to handle the boost. make sure you replace the o-ring on the oil pump pickup tube they get hard and suck air and will cause oil pressure issues. Can't wait to see the videos on this build thanks Matt
Needs a new pan and pickup so I will replace that oring.
I would send the heads out to a machine shop to get a valve job and replace the springs to ls6 springs for a bigger cam. You might as well give the engine a basic refresh with rings and bearings and a quick hone.
Please continue with restoration of this motor
Given that you have excellent mechanical skills, I would go for the rebuild. Plus, I am eager to see some vapor blasted LS parts.
I like your plan to pull the heads and do the piston/ring work. Gives you an opportunity to check out the lower end as well. Found it interesting the amount of color difference between the left and right heads ... Maybe it was just the camera?
Probably lighting.
Hi Matt. Interesting you ask our opinions. I largely agree with most but especially Mac McMillian. If you are going to turbo charge this engine with 140K on it I'd rebuild it - top to bottom end. Going from stock to 500 bhp something will give very quickly if tolerances/setup are not good. Plus if budget allows we all want to see you rebuild beauty.
Soak the exhaust ports with Marvels mystery oil. Fills the cylinders with it too. See if that'll break up the carbon. Then retest leak down.
Sounds good.
This beauty I meant to say
So if you put 100 PSI in a cylinder... it won't leak faster? I would think the rate at which something leaks would definitely depend on the amount of pressure pushing against it.
Is there a minimum allowable percent leakage, or should it be zero? If it were my motor, and given that it has 140k on it, I'd refresh the whole motor (lower end, cylinders, top end, all new bearings, semi-blueprinted or completely blue-printed, etc). As long as the motor is already out and you're not on a tight budget, that would be my plan of attack.
A fresh engine should have about 5% leakage.
for turbo what's the amount of ring gap here, does it depend on boost, or ring material or what guideline is there for gap, is there an equation for this so we can all benefit without having to find the hard way? also if go to the trouble to do this are you putting fire rings or sleeves in the bores? What level of boost and are you then going to use ARP 'like' studs? and it you change the pistons and rods what about the crank, and the oil pump? are you adding oil squirts for the pistons? Are you adding a new pump? I mean I ask because a turbo kit is all kinds of additional math involved? what about just boring it and adding a came and some nice headers? probably just as much HP and much less work?
I have vids for most of your questions. Browse my channel and this project playlist.
Nice
Have you put some oil in the cylinders to see whether this has any effect on the leak-down? It looks as though the valves ARE the main culprit, so I suggest just taking off and doing valves, the rings may be fine, also if you want to boost up this engine, if the rings are a bit worn they will have the extra ring gap that you want already... Just saying.
Yep, test wet is good, but with the known leaky valves would fix them first, even a quick spray with carb cleaner and a pick or brush to dislodge.
When the engine is hot the leak is less.
Build ya something with a 5.3 in it and turbos. That's where the fun starts.
What bolt size for the engine stand to block?
Id make sure the block isn't cracked n if not just put peerformance heards on
I would take the engine apart.
It is out of a car.
So easy excess.
And you want to turbo charge it.
So it better be good from the start!
8:23 I should call her...
Do not put the engine in as is, start striping it down will be much more satisfying!
Get a 10.0 crate big block with huge tunnel ram with blower , turbo charger , nitrous , biggest carbs that’ll breathe hell out of the exhaust and dump truck rear axle so when you Trump on it the world will rotate under you..
Doesn't sound like a good car to get ice cream in LOL.
Only if you make it a fuel stop also.