www.buymeacoffee.com/davosshed If you like watching my CZcams channel or just watched a single video that helped you out why not buy me a coffee. I’d really appreciate it. Consider subscribing if you haven’t already or simply drop me a comment to say hi or suggest a topic that I may like to cover. 🤠
My JD D110 is 16 Years old. My battery was fine, Connections needed cleaning. Appreciated a tour of safety items to consider. Quote from my WWII Vintage dad, "it's probably real simple". Go slow and don't overlook the obvious. Well done.
Thank you! Same thing happened to my JD 5420 this morning, just after I drove it to the hydrant to fill up the water tank I have on the 3-point to water my new trees. Turned off Ol' Reliable, filled up the water, and went to go water my thirsty trees but, alas, Ol' Reliable's lights lit up but she wouldn't even crank. Tried charging and jump-starting her, made sure all connections were good (I mean, she was just running 10 minutes before!). Turns out she is still reliable, just needed a new battery after all these years! Thank you for saving me diagnostic time (which I didn't have the skill or time for) and giving me the confidence to take the battery to the store, where they tested it and confirmed it was bad, and they had a replacement for me. Trees got watered today without me having to carry buckets 50 times across 40 acres! Watching your video saved the trees and my body. Thank you.
Hi Helen, what a great story. It’s hearing about adventures like this that encourage me to make more videos. My videos are often varied showing whatever I happen to be up to. Fixing mowers and chainsaws are the most popular. I wish mine would break more (not) 🤠 Thanks for subscribing! Dave
Glad you liked it. 🤠 I try not to pretend I know all the answers and show people is ok to use your own brain. It’s obviously going to be a one sided conversation but I try and talk as though you are looking over my shoulder. So much of what I learned through my life was done this way. I just want to pay a bit back 🤠
Glad you got something out of it. I just stopped when I figured it out. 🤠 In the end it was not what I was expecting. But that makes the video better I reckon.
You've inspired me to troubleshoot my L120. My L120 starts alright, gets mowing, but if shut off, sometimes doesn't start. Like how you bypassed the circuits to directly test the starter. Wow, impressed you keep your 12V spare parts in an attache case. -Jersey Mike
Hi Mike, I’ve had that old brief case 40 years at least. They went out of fashion about 35 years ago :) I retired last year so it not likely to be called back into service. If it runs a while and conks out check the three big ones. Air, make sure your air cleaner isn’t blocked. Unlikely but easy to check. Fuel. Make sure your fuel filter isn’t blocked. Spark. I had an old push mower do exactly that. It would run 2 or 3 minutes and stall. Eventually I replaced the magneto and that solved it. Just make sure you check all the easy stuff before you start throwing parts at it. Good Luck
Great video at about 3 minutes you mentioned the safety switches. It ended up being the safety switch for the blade engager. The bracket was loose and turned 90 degrees so it wasn't clossing the switch! I simple adjustment and tightening and it's back in action!
Fantastic, it’s a great feeling when you find the problem and you can fix it yourself with no parts required. Well done and thanks for letting me know.
Thanks for the video! I spent a lot of time troubleshooting my D130 that would not start. I thought, because I was showing 12.8V on the battery, that it was fine. Once I changed out the battery it started right up. I still had the original battery from around 7 years ago (or more). Thanks again, great video!
It was not the result I was expecting either. You can load test a battery if you have the right tools. If you know a reputable battery supplier they can test it for you. I say reputable because it is very tempting for them to say “Yeah mate it’s buggered”. Well that’s what they say in Australia any way. :) If you have another battery to try that can also prove it for you. Well done sorting it out.
Good Job. My John D clicks once or twice with each key turn before starter will crank, solenoid or starter motor, have to order and fix when it won't start. Really nice land.
Well you know how to bypass the solenoid now to prove it :) I had a problem with my JD 1640 tractor solenoid years ago. I had a mechanic out and he did an On of on of on off with the starter in rapid succession. This basically blew the corrosion of the contacts. It was only a temporary fix. I’m don’t recall exactly what I did to permanently fix it but I think the contacts were filed clean and it still lives on. I expect there are no serviceable parts on a D110 solenoid but you never know. :) Please flick me a subscribe if you haven’t all ready 🤠 Thanks for commenting!
Sir- you are amazing. The jumper cable test to bypass the silenoid saved me from buying a starter. If youre ever by LBI in New Jersey, Ill buy you a beer.
Hi Mike, I’m really glad you got something out of this video. I remember standing there thinking any reason I shouldn’t do that with the jumper lead? I couldn’t think of one. Was your problem the battery or the solenoid? I live in Australia so I don’t get to New Jersey very often. :) Flick me a like and subscribe if you want to. I’m trying to get to 1000 subs so CZcams will pay me a few cents but it’s a slow road when you do “How To” videos. There is a Buy Me Coffee link in the description but I don’t push that one.
So you went to your battery shop had your battery tested dead cell diagnosed should have just purchased a new replacement whilst there would have saved so much effort but you got there in the end so well done
Well I already had a brand new battery sitting there after the alternator failed on my car. This was the get home battery I had to buy instead of getting towed. They are worth a couple of hundred bucks and if I didn’t use it it would still be sitting there. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks :) I try not to solve problems then make a video on how I solved it. I did cut out some of the head scratching. I had a bit of a “now I’m stumped” moment when I forgot to put that solenoid wire back on. Glad you enjoyed watching. Dave
Thanks for the compliment! Before you buy a new battery take the old battery with you to the battery shop and have them load test it for you. It’s a very simple test if you have the right equipment. They should not charge you anything if the battery is ok. Keep in mind their goal is to sell you a battery :)
Mine situation was I replace the seat sensor, starter, solenoid, and ignition. It was the first safety switch with the blades. For some reason the safety was stuck in and wouldn’t turn over until I kept pushing the switch then it started.
Nice, how you went around the battery to solenoid, straight to the starter. Which led you back to the problem. My friend was going through switches, then all of his electrical connections... One by one. Wouldn't have fixed anything. Was the Solenoid. Very quick after watching this. Cheers and Mahalos! -Scotty on Maui. 🍻🌴
Thanks Scotty, I’m retired now but my day job used to be IT. A great trick I learnt that can be applied to most problems in life is the Divide by Two Rule. If you can do a test to rule out half of the potential problems it must be in the other half. Then divide by two again if you can. Then go one at a time. Glad this video helped you and your friend even though my problem was something else.
I had this problem with my JD. It turned out to be the negative lead that goes to the engine had a bad contact on the bolt. There was a 5 volt drop across it when I measured it! Looked all in order and no corrosion to be seen but after I pulled it apart and cleaned it up it worked a treat. The quick way to diagnose this would be to simply put a jumper lead from the battery negative to the engine block and if it works you know the problem is in the lead somewhere.
I have been tricked by that before. My 60 horse (1982 model) JD tractor used to crank real slow. In the finish I removed all the ground straps and starter cable contacts and cleaned everything. Nothing looked that bad but a little bit of corrosion on everything was the problem. I was about to take the starter off to the shop again. Glad I didn’t! I had an even stranger problem with my Diesel Toyota Landcruiser. Same cause. 25 year old earth strap that had never been touched. Used to stall intermittently at highway speed if the headlights were on. Tough one to diagnose. Someone on a chat group told me to clean it. I thought yeah yeah but he nailed it. I reckon before changing any parts clean all those contacts anyway. Thanks for commenting. Dave
Good advice, although less than 11v it probably wouldn’t start. I could have made the video after I new the answer but there would be no fun in that 🤠 It’s still going strong although it has blown a head gasket since then. I diagnosed and fixed that but didn’t video it as I have never done one before. Looking back I should have videos it 🤠
11v is a very good 1.6 drop is excellent think of your car starter when the drop is > 10 is excellent Cheers check voltage drop for yourself you’ll find out what’s good check VD on both positive and ground if there’s a problem
@@anthonysova7117 I’m not really sure what you mean? Are you talking about the voltage drop while you are cranking the engine. I was always lead to believe this value was pretty meaningless. Anyway my battery had a dead short inside by the time it had a car ride to the battery shop. So it must have been hanging by a thread in there while I was trying to diagnose the problem which is why the volts still looked ok to start with. This turned out to be a good real world problem, so I left all the diagnostic steps in even though they didn’t find the problem. Not much fun running straight to the kill without the thrill of the chase! Thanks for taking an interest in my video
@@DavoShed voltage drop while cranking engine you can’t have VD without current flow or resistance (motor)A shorted battery looks like 10.5 open circuit voltage (at rest =1 cell shorted 2.11 volts+10 .55 =12.6 ) Next time you check a battery keep the DVOM on the terminals check at rest(OCV) then while cranking (VD) By the way 11v at VD is excellent hope this helps Cheers
That’s a good idea. I used to have a solar trickle charger on my mower in the winter but I suspect it may have overcharged it. Not sure. This time a cell in the battery had collapsed. It’s not the first time either. I think the vibration is really hard on batteries. Thanks for commenting!
This one is easy. Just fix the battery and you're done. Try this: new battery, new solenoid, new starter, new air filter & oil filter. Yet, it only cranks but doesn't turn over. I'm about to change the carburetor. If that doesn't make it start, I don't know what will.
Yes but I didn’t know that at the beginning. It turned out the battery had a partial short inside that was hard to determine. The goal is to home in on the problem without throwing parts at it. Regular maintenance parts like filters are a good idea anyway. If your engine turns over when you turn the key you have ruled out or already replaced the starter, solinoid and the battery as the problem. If you have replaced the air filter that’s good. It means it’s getting air. That leaves Compression, Fuel and spark. Take the spark plug out and re connect the cable, hold the threads against a metal part of the engine. Crank the engine being careful not to zap yourself. Wear rubber gloves if you are concerned about that. You should see a nice blue spark if you are inside. Can be hard to see in sunlight. If not then spark is your problem. If you don’t you could clean or replace the spark plug, they are cheap. It could be a compression problem but less likely. While the plug is out put your thumb over the spark plug hole turn the flywheel by hand. It should squeeze air past your thumb. If it doesn’t then that’s your problem. If you get a good spark put a tea spoon of fuel down the spark plug hole, replace the spark plug being careful not to cross the threads. Then try and start again. If it kicks and tries to run more than before then fuel is your problem. Check or replace the fuel filter if there is one. They are also cheap. If it still doesn’t go then your carb might need a clean. If so at most you will only need a gasket. There are heaps of carb cleaning videos out there.
Correct. It had hardly any amps. I took it to a battery specialist shop to give it a load test keeping in mind I know they sell batteries but by the time I travelled the 15km into town the voltage was only 10v or something like that. There was clearly a short or something stuffed inside the battery and the car ride into town made it worse. I hear that the vibration of mowers is hard on batteries and the charging system isn’t that great in the first place. Notably the replacement battery is still going great. I guess the take home is that the voltage reading isn’t fool proof. Keep an open mind.
I have same problem of no crank and when I turn the key's on to start, I just hear those load clicking noise. I hook up a fast start charger to the battery terminal and still the same. I tried to bypass the solenoid from the battery to the starter motor and I don't hear it cranking. So, does this sound like a starter motor that need to be replaced. Thanks
It could be the starter motor. Although this is the same symptoms I was getting before I tried a different battery. My battery had an internal short. The battery was still showing over 12v but it didn’t have enough amps to crank the motor. Usually the clicking sound means not enough power to turn the motor. The click is the starter motor gear engaging. Before coughing up for a starter I’d borrow a known good battery from something else and try it with jumper leads. You could also get your battery tested at a battery shop. I think the vibration of these engines shakes the battery to death. Let me know what you come up with! Dave
My battery lead does not have a clip Round post connection at one end and an eye on the other end. The fuse is a standard blade fuse on the side of the battery tray. It’s quite obvious. Your design may be a little different.
Good question I already had this battery after rescuing my wife when her car alternator failed. I had the alternator replaced and put the original battery back in her car. Not that long after we sold the car. That left me with this brand new battery. Not much of a market for second hand batteries 🤠 so this turned out to be a perfect use for it. For some reason this mower is very hard on batteries.
Thought that fix it , it didn't started to turn over, yet it wouldn't then got weak again, I know the ign switch is bad so tried to start it by the cilnoid,, then it turned over some, yet only a few seconds then wouldn't even do that, so I looked at the starter it's cracked on the bottom, so I know that has to be changed, then / solenoid ,possiably the carborator, what else is there can be done to this 😀
Glad you fixed it. It’s always good to hear what other people are doing. As I mentioned I also charged my battery but there was an internal fault. I think the vibration of the mower is really hard on batteries.
Hi Coley, Good question. (Not sure what MWO means?) I already had that battery for a car that I recently sold. The battery was only used once to get the car home and then to a mechanic to replace a broken alternator. I could not return the battery. So I had a brand new battery worth around a couple of hundred bucks and no use for it. It was an easy modification and it came out ok. It would be silly to buy another battery and put that one back on the shelf.
That could be. That’s really flat if the metre doesn’t come on. Did you check that little fuse. Get a cheap volt metre and see what voltage the battery has. Then check all the big cables are clean and tight. You could also try jumper cables to another good battery but there are a few tricks that are good to know when jumping from your car. Good luck!
@@DavoShed I tested the solenoid like you showed on your video and I didn’t get any clicking sound. Does that mean one of my safety switches are bad? Also did the jumper cable test and starter wouldn’t start the tractor like your did. So I’m think safety switches
@scottnj It probably is your battery then. The test with the jump start lead should bypass all the safety switches. If you can’t find a place that can load test your battery buy a new one. Did you get a cheap volt meter and check the voltage?
It could be the starter if you have done all the other tests. Was the old battery actually dead when you put the volt meter on it? Does the hour metre work now? Check both ends of the negative cable are good.
Hi Daniel, With the key off If you bypass everything with a jumper cable from the positive terminal on the battery to the positive on the starter does it crank then? If no then the problem may be with the negative connection. Take the negative cables off at both ends and clean them with a wire brush. If it still doesn’t crank this way then it may be a problem with the starter motor. Do you get the click click of the gear trying to engaged? If it does crank when you bypass everything then it is one of the other things I mention in the video. Brake micro switch PTO micro switch Seat micro switch It could be a problem with the actual ignition key switch. See if you can bypass this stuff one at a time to figure out which one it is then replace that. If you find it’s a switch don’t leave it bypassed as they all there to protect us. It’s when you are tired or distracted it will take your foot off. Use the divide by two rule. That is how can I narrow things down. I assume you can turn the fly wheel by hand. That is the engine isn’t stuck. Post again when you find the problem Dave
There is that little fuse as well but I think the hour metre won’t come on if that is blown. No lights is odd. There is always the chance you got a dud battery assuming that is new.
Hi Garry, Make sure ALL the connections are clean. If that doesn’t help take the battery in to a battery shop and get it tested. If that’s all good then bypass the solenoid like I do in the video. Can you turn the motor by turning the fly wheel screen on top. If yes then that possibly just leaves the starter motor itself. See if you can rule out the pieces that are working and find the one that isn’t working. Good Luck 🤠
I didn’t measure the voltage while it was cranking but by the time I got it to the shop to test it on their load tester the short was worse. So the ride to the shop completely killed it. They tell me the charging system on these mowers is fairly poor but I reckon the vibration kills them prematurely.
Sure, but I already had this battery for my wife’s car. I bought it to get home one day after the alternator died. She sold the car before the old battery was done. So why not use it? It has more CCA than the original. The only problem was the terminals are the wrong way around. So I made longer cables. It’s still going strong 🤠
Not sure about the different JD models. I bought this D110 in 2011. No idea when this model was first released. It has a 19.5 Briggs and Stratton engine. It says “Assembled in USA” It may have some modifications for Australia. Who knows :) I hope this video helped solve your problem 🤠
Ha ha, My Buttocks. I’m guessing your from the USA as many of my viewers are. There are many different expressions between USA and Australia but I wouldn’t have thought Arse was one of them. I could have said arse hole but that is to specific. 🤠 I was just trying to add a bit of comedy value like a pilot saying Flaps Up, Kick out the chocks etc. Thanks for commenting.
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If you like watching my CZcams channel or just watched a single video that helped you out why not buy me a coffee. I’d really appreciate it.
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My JD D110 is 16 Years old. My battery was fine, Connections needed cleaning. Appreciated a tour of safety items to consider. Quote from my WWII Vintage dad, "it's probably real simple". Go slow and don't overlook the obvious. Well done.
Well done, it’s easy to jump straight to the big ticket stuff and load the parts cannon. 🤠
Thank you! Same thing happened to my JD 5420 this morning, just after I drove it to the hydrant to fill up the water tank I have on the 3-point to water my new trees. Turned off Ol' Reliable, filled up the water, and went to go water my thirsty trees but, alas, Ol' Reliable's lights lit up but she wouldn't even crank. Tried charging and jump-starting her, made sure all connections were good (I mean, she was just running 10 minutes before!). Turns out she is still reliable, just needed a new battery after all these years! Thank you for saving me diagnostic time (which I didn't have the skill or time for) and giving me the confidence to take the battery to the store, where they tested it and confirmed it was bad, and they had a replacement for me. Trees got watered today without me having to carry buckets 50 times across 40 acres! Watching your video saved the trees and my body. Thank you.
Hi Helen, what a great story. It’s hearing about adventures like this that encourage me to make more videos. My videos are often varied showing whatever I happen to be up to. Fixing mowers and chainsaws are the most popular. I wish mine would break more (not) 🤠
Thanks for subscribing!
Dave
I absolutely love that you kept the moments of your bewildered ponderings in the video. We've all been there!
Glad you liked it. 🤠
I try not to pretend I know all the answers and show people is ok to use your own brain.
It’s obviously going to be a one sided conversation but I try and talk as though you are looking over my shoulder. So much of what I learned through my life was done this way.
I just want to pay a bit back 🤠
I cannot thank you enough for this. Thank you so so much. I have spent hours diagnosing the issue and this video finally helped.
Glad I could help! Click on like and subscribe, that would be a big help to my channel. 🤠
I’m trying to get to 1000 subscribers but it’s a long way :)
Much appreciated. So many videos try to do what you shared, but seeing and hearing the whole process was exactly what I needed. Thank you!
Glad you got something out of it. I just stopped when I figured it out. 🤠
In the end it was not what I was expecting. But that makes the video better I reckon.
Thanks for the video. My problem was the PTO switch had come loose. I wouldn’t have looked there if it wasn’t for this video. Cheers mate! 👍
Hi Rich, I’m really glad you got something out of it and you mower is back in service.
Just bought a used one and I know about a dime worth, you have really helped me, thank you so very much.
Pleased to hear it. I hope it goes well for you. Thanks for letting me know
Excellent video... Step by step troubleshooting showing what you were doing.
Thanks for the support. I wasn’t expecting the problem to be the battery but you follow the symptoms where ever they go :)
You've inspired me to troubleshoot my L120. My L120 starts alright, gets mowing, but if shut off, sometimes doesn't start. Like how you bypassed the circuits to directly test the starter. Wow, impressed you keep your 12V spare parts in an attache case. -Jersey Mike
Hi Mike, I’ve had that old brief case 40 years at least. They went out of fashion about 35 years ago :)
I retired last year so it not likely to be called back into service.
If it runs a while and conks out check the three big ones.
Air, make sure your air cleaner isn’t blocked. Unlikely but easy to check.
Fuel. Make sure your fuel filter isn’t blocked.
Spark. I had an old push mower do exactly that. It would run 2 or 3 minutes and stall. Eventually I replaced the magneto and that solved it.
Just make sure you check all the easy stuff before you start throwing parts at it.
Good Luck
Great overview of the ignition system! Thanks😊
Your welcome
I’ve been thinking of doing the next one in the sequence.
Cranks but still no start.
Great video at about 3 minutes you mentioned the safety switches. It ended up being the safety switch for the blade engager. The bracket was loose and turned 90 degrees so it wasn't clossing the switch! I simple adjustment and tightening and it's back in action!
Fantastic, it’s a great feeling when you find the problem and you can fix it yourself with no parts required. Well done and thanks for letting me know.
Same here. 👍
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video! I spent a lot of time troubleshooting my D130 that would not start. I thought, because I was showing 12.8V on the battery, that it was fine. Once I changed out the battery it started right up. I still had the original battery from around 7 years ago (or more). Thanks again, great video!
It was not the result I was expecting either. You can load test a battery if you have the right tools.
If you know a reputable battery supplier they can test it for you.
I say reputable because it is very tempting for them to say “Yeah mate it’s buggered”. Well that’s what they say in Australia any way. :)
If you have another battery to try that can also prove it for you. Well done sorting it out.
Good Job. My John D clicks once or twice with each key turn before starter will crank, solenoid or starter motor, have to order and fix when it won't start. Really nice land.
Well you know how to bypass the solenoid now to prove it :)
I had a problem with my JD 1640 tractor solenoid years ago. I had a mechanic out and he did an On of on of on off with the starter in rapid succession.
This basically blew the corrosion of the contacts. It was only a temporary fix. I’m don’t recall exactly what I did to permanently fix it but I think the contacts were filed clean and it still lives on. I expect there are no serviceable parts on a D110 solenoid but you never know. :)
Please flick me a subscribe if you haven’t all ready 🤠
Thanks for commenting!
Sir- you are amazing. The jumper cable test to bypass the silenoid saved me from buying a starter. If youre ever by LBI in New Jersey, Ill buy you a beer.
Hi Mike,
I’m really glad you got something out of this video.
I remember standing there thinking any reason I shouldn’t do that with the jumper lead?
I couldn’t think of one.
Was your problem the battery or the solenoid?
I live in Australia so I don’t get to New Jersey very often. :)
Flick me a like and subscribe if you want to. I’m trying to get to 1000 subs so CZcams will pay me a few cents but it’s a slow road when you do “How To” videos. There is a Buy Me Coffee link in the description but I don’t push that one.
So you went to your battery shop had your battery tested dead cell diagnosed should have just purchased a new replacement whilst there would have saved so much effort but you got there in the end so well done
Well I already had a brand new battery sitting there after the alternator failed on my car. This was the get home battery I had to buy instead of getting towed. They are worth a couple of hundred bucks and if I didn’t use it it would still be sitting there. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I like the way you trouble shoot💪🏽
Thanks :)
I try not to solve problems then make a video on how I solved it.
I did cut out some of the head scratching.
I had a bit of a “now I’m stumped” moment when I forgot to put that solenoid wire back on.
Glad you enjoyed watching.
Dave
Thank-you for this well put together instructional video. I will try a new battery on my Series 100 mower and hope that works. Cheers.
Thanks for the compliment!
Before you buy a new battery take the old battery with you to the battery shop and have them load test it for you.
It’s a very simple test if you have the right equipment. They should not charge you anything if the battery is ok.
Keep in mind their goal is to sell you a battery :)
Mine situation was I replace the seat sensor, starter, solenoid, and ignition. It was the first safety switch with the blades. For some reason the safety was stuck in and wouldn’t turn over until I kept pushing the switch then it started.
It’s easy to throw parts at them.
With a cheap multi metre and some cables you can test that stuff before you buy new ones
Glad you found the problem!
I like the way you haven’t solved the problem when you start recording. 👍
I always try and solve these problems with the camera rolling. I think it helps others see the problem solving process.
Nice, how you went around the battery to solenoid, straight to the starter.
Which led you back to the problem.
My friend was going through switches, then all of his electrical connections... One by one.
Wouldn't have fixed anything.
Was the Solenoid.
Very quick after watching this. Cheers and Mahalos!
-Scotty on Maui. 🍻🌴
Thanks Scotty, I’m retired now but my day job used to be IT.
A great trick I learnt that can be applied to most problems in life is the Divide by Two Rule.
If you can do a test to rule out half of the potential problems it must be in the other half. Then divide by two again if you can. Then go one at a time.
Glad this video helped you and your friend even though my problem was something else.
@@DavoShed Best math lesson. Divide.. 🍻🚬
Impressive! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks, glad you got something out of it and for letting me know!
I had this problem with my JD. It turned out to be the negative lead that goes to the engine had a bad contact on the bolt. There was a 5 volt drop across it when I measured it! Looked all in order and no corrosion to be seen but after I pulled it apart and cleaned it up it worked a treat. The quick way to diagnose this would be to simply put a jumper lead from the battery negative to the engine block and if it works you know the problem is in the lead somewhere.
I have been tricked by that before. My 60 horse (1982 model) JD tractor used to crank real slow. In the finish I removed all the ground straps and starter cable contacts and cleaned everything. Nothing looked that bad but a little bit of corrosion on everything was the problem. I was about to take the starter off to the shop again. Glad I didn’t!
I had an even stranger problem with my Diesel Toyota Landcruiser. Same cause. 25 year old earth strap that had never been touched. Used to stall intermittently at highway speed if the headlights were on. Tough one to diagnose. Someone on a chat group told me to clean it. I thought yeah yeah but he nailed it.
I reckon before changing any parts clean all those contacts anyway.
Thanks for commenting.
Dave
Enjoyed your video.This may help you next time after checking open circuit voltage keep the meter on terminals and check the voltage drop
Good advice, although less than 11v it probably wouldn’t start. I could have made the video after I new the answer but there would be no fun in that 🤠
It’s still going strong although it has blown a head gasket since then. I diagnosed and fixed that but didn’t video it as I have never done one before. Looking back I should have videos it 🤠
@@DavoShed
11v is a very good 1.6 drop is excellent think of your car starter when the drop is > 10 is excellent Cheers check voltage drop for yourself you’ll find out what’s good check VD on both positive and ground if there’s a problem
@@anthonysova7117
I’m not really sure what you mean? Are you talking about the voltage drop while you are cranking the engine.
I was always lead to believe this value was pretty meaningless.
Anyway my battery had a dead short inside by the time it had a car ride to the battery shop.
So it must have been hanging by a thread in there while I was trying to diagnose the problem which is why the volts still looked ok to start with.
This turned out to be a good real world problem, so I left all the diagnostic steps in even though they didn’t find the problem.
Not much fun running straight to the kill without the thrill of the chase!
Thanks for taking an interest in my video
@@DavoShed voltage drop while cranking engine you can’t have VD without current flow or resistance (motor)A shorted battery looks like 10.5 open circuit voltage (at rest =1 cell shorted 2.11 volts+10 .55 =12.6 ) Next time you check a battery keep the DVOM on the terminals check at rest(OCV) then while cranking (VD) By the way 11v at VD is excellent hope this helps Cheers
I Always keep a "Battery Tender JR" (about $40) on my battery, so it is always fully charged. It helps the battery last longer too.
That’s a good idea. I used to have a solar trickle charger on my mower in the winter but I suspect it may have overcharged it. Not sure.
This time a cell in the battery had collapsed. It’s not the first time either. I think the vibration is really hard on batteries.
Thanks for commenting!
found my solenoid was bad. learned enough to jump it though and got the lawn all cleaned up
That’s great. Now you also know which part to replace🤠
This one is easy. Just fix the battery and you're done. Try this: new battery, new solenoid, new starter, new air filter & oil filter. Yet, it only cranks but doesn't turn over. I'm about to change the carburetor. If that doesn't make it start, I don't know what will.
Yes but I didn’t know that at the beginning.
It turned out the battery had a partial short inside that was hard to determine.
The goal is to home in on the problem without throwing parts at it. Regular maintenance parts like filters are a good idea anyway.
If your engine turns over when you turn the key you have ruled out or already replaced the starter, solinoid and the battery as the problem.
If you have replaced the air filter that’s good. It means it’s getting air.
That leaves Compression, Fuel and spark.
Take the spark plug out and re connect the cable, hold the threads against a metal part of the engine. Crank the engine being careful not to zap yourself. Wear rubber gloves if you are concerned about that. You should see a nice blue spark if you are inside. Can be hard to see in sunlight.
If not then spark is your problem. If you don’t you could clean or replace the spark plug, they are cheap.
It could be a compression problem but less likely. While the plug is out put your thumb over the spark plug hole turn the flywheel by hand. It should squeeze air past your thumb. If it doesn’t then that’s your problem.
If you get a good spark put a tea spoon of fuel down the spark plug hole, replace the spark plug being careful not to cross the threads. Then try and start again. If it kicks and tries to run more than before then fuel is your problem. Check or replace the fuel filter if there is one. They are also cheap.
If it still doesn’t go then your carb might need a clean. If so at most you will only need a gasket. There are heaps of carb cleaning videos out there.
Awesome video
I’ll have to break it again so I can make another one. 🤠
Glad you got something out of it!
Crocodile Dundee is good
I’ll take that as a compliment
🤠
Definitely a compliment. I was able to fix my mower thanks or this video! Great content
Really glad it helped!
So that 12.6 volt battery wasn’t strong enough to start that mower.
Correct. It had hardly any amps.
I took it to a battery specialist shop to give it a load test keeping in mind I know they sell batteries but by the time I travelled the 15km into town the voltage was only 10v or something like that. There was clearly a short or something stuffed inside the battery and the car ride into town made it worse.
I hear that the vibration of mowers is hard on batteries and the charging system isn’t that great in the first place.
Notably the replacement battery is still going great. I guess the take home is that the voltage reading isn’t fool proof. Keep an open mind.
I have same problem of no crank and when I turn the key's on to start, I just hear those load clicking noise. I hook up a fast start charger to the battery terminal and still the same. I tried to bypass the solenoid from the battery to the starter motor and I don't hear it cranking. So, does this sound like a starter motor that need to be replaced. Thanks
It could be the starter motor. Although this is the same symptoms I was getting before I tried a different battery.
My battery had an internal short. The battery was still showing over 12v but it didn’t have enough amps to crank the motor.
Usually the clicking sound means not enough power to turn the motor. The click is the starter motor gear engaging.
Before coughing up for a starter I’d borrow a known good battery from something else and try it with jumper leads.
You could also get your battery tested at a battery shop. I think the vibration of these engines shakes the battery to death.
Let me know what you come up with!
Dave
how did you release the white clip on pos battery cable . i tryed on mind could not get it to release is their a fuse in it
My battery lead does not have a clip
Round post connection at one end and an eye on the other end.
The fuse is a standard blade fuse on the side of the battery tray. It’s quite obvious.
Your design may be a little different.
Why not just purchase a correctly aligned battery? Solves a lot of issues.
Good question
I already had this battery after rescuing my wife when her car alternator failed. I had the alternator replaced and put the original battery back in her car. Not that long after we sold the car. That left me with this brand new battery. Not much of a market for second hand batteries 🤠 so this turned out to be a perfect use for it. For some reason this mower is very hard on batteries.
Great Job ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks! Are you having trouble with your mower or are you just looking for entertainment?
@@DavoShed yes severely trouble
I got a new battery I
got has 150 cranks
Thought that fix it , it didn't started to turn over, yet it wouldn't then got weak again, I know the ign switch is bad so tried to start it by the cilnoid,, then it turned over some, yet only a few seconds then wouldn't even do that, so I looked at the starter it's cracked on the bottom, so I know that has to be changed, then / solenoid ,possiably the carborator, what else is there can be done to this 😀
@@x7warrior735 if you can, change one thing at a time then try it. Certainly a cracked starter motor needs replacing.
I had the same issue and a battery charge fixed it right up
Glad you fixed it. It’s always good to hear what other people are doing.
As I mentioned I also charged my battery but there was an internal fault.
I think the vibration of the mower is really hard on batteries.
While MWO the battery cables when you can get the correct battery?
Hi Coley,
Good question.
(Not sure what MWO means?)
I already had that battery for a car that I recently sold.
The battery was only used once to get the car home and then to a mechanic to replace a broken alternator.
I could not return the battery.
So I had a brand new battery worth around a couple of hundred bucks and no use for it.
It was an easy modification and it came out ok. It would be silly to buy another battery and put that one back on the shelf.
When I turn my key the hour meter doesn’t come on. Thanks for showing this. I think it’s time for me to replace my battery.
That could be. That’s really flat if the metre doesn’t come on. Did you check that little fuse. Get a cheap volt metre and see what voltage the battery has. Then check all the big cables are clean and tight.
You could also try jumper cables to another good battery but there are a few tricks that are good to know when jumping from your car. Good luck!
@@DavoShed I tested the solenoid like you showed on your video and I didn’t get any clicking sound. Does that mean one of my safety switches are bad? Also did the jumper cable test and starter wouldn’t start the tractor like your did. So I’m think safety switches
@scottnj It probably is your battery then.
The test with the jump start lead should bypass all the safety switches.
If you can’t find a place that can load test your battery buy a new one.
Did you get a cheap volt meter and check the voltage?
@@DavoShed yes I did get one it was reading 12.2. The Battery was just bought brand new. You think maybe the starter then if it bypasses the switches
It could be the starter if you have done all the other tests. Was the old battery actually dead when you put the volt meter on it?
Does the hour metre work now?
Check both ends of the negative cable are good.
I replaced the battery and starter switch. Sill no lights and no start. However hour meter is on. What do you suggest I do next.
Hi Daniel,
With the key off If you bypass everything with a jumper cable from the positive terminal on the battery to the positive on the starter does it crank then?
If no then the problem may be with the negative connection. Take the negative cables off at both ends and clean them with a wire brush.
If it still doesn’t crank this way then it may be a problem with the starter motor. Do you get the click click of the gear trying to engaged?
If it does crank when you bypass everything then it is one of the other things I mention in the video.
Brake micro switch
PTO micro switch
Seat micro switch
It could be a problem with the actual ignition key switch.
See if you can bypass this stuff one at a time to figure out which one it is then replace that.
If you find it’s a switch don’t leave it bypassed as they all there to protect us. It’s when you are tired or distracted it will take your foot off.
Use the divide by two rule. That is how can I narrow things down.
I assume you can turn the fly wheel by hand. That is the engine isn’t stuck.
Post again when you find the problem
Dave
There is that little fuse as well but I think the hour metre won’t come on if that is blown.
No lights is odd. There is always the chance you got a dud battery assuming that is new.
What if I have a click.but won't crank
Hi Garry,
Make sure ALL the connections are clean. If that doesn’t help take the battery in to a battery shop and get it tested.
If that’s all good then bypass the solenoid like I do in the video.
Can you turn the motor by turning the fly wheel screen on top.
If yes then that possibly just leaves the starter motor itself.
See if you can rule out the pieces that are working and find the one that isn’t working.
Good Luck 🤠
I would guess the bat. Had a short in it. Probably dropped to about 6volts when cranking
I didn’t measure the voltage while it was cranking but by the time I got it to the shop to test it on their load tester the short was worse. So the ride to the shop completely killed it. They tell me the charging system on these mowers is fairly poor but I reckon the vibration kills them prematurely.
I would just buy the right battery
Sure, but I already had this battery for my wife’s car. I bought it to get home one day after the alternator died.
She sold the car before the old battery was done. So why not use it? It has more CCA than the original. The only problem was the terminals are the wrong way around. So I made longer cables. It’s still going strong 🤠
Got me tricked now lol
How did I trick you? :)
Let me know if I can explain something better
That one looks like a Briggs engine
Yes it is. They make that one for John Deer but I’m not sure what’s special about it.
Probably the badge and the oil filter :)
@@DavoShed yeah probably
Think that's newer than the L110 john deere
Not sure about the different JD models.
I bought this D110 in 2011. No idea when this model was first released.
It has a 19.5 Briggs and Stratton engine. It says “Assembled in USA”
It may have some modifications for Australia. Who knows :)
I hope this video helped solve your problem 🤠
@@DavoShed my L110 has the Kohler command cv491s engine and i bought it as it was used
😊W
Very good I love “W”
What's an arse?
Ha ha, My Buttocks.
I’m guessing your from the USA as many of my viewers are. There are many different expressions between USA and Australia but I wouldn’t have thought Arse was one of them. I could have said arse hole but that is to specific. 🤠
I was just trying to add a bit of comedy value like a pilot saying Flaps Up, Kick out the chocks etc.
Thanks for commenting.