DIY Off-Grid Solar Generator (rev 2) - Low-Cost Portable Power -- with Build List
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- čas přidán 25. 12. 2017
- Features:
• always-available portable AC power
• pure-sine power for motorized loads
• cart makes transport around property convenient
• can be charged from AC power or solar
• high capacity (2000W/95Ah)
• 7 - 120VAC outlets
• 1 - USB charging ports (2 direct from battery)
• 12V cigar-lighter port
• all elements fused for safety
• quick disconnect for solar panels
• power can be extended by connecting additional car batteries
• battery maintainer keeps system at full capacity
• switchable 12VDC sub-system
Wiring Diagram: www.desertprep.info/Diagram_re...
Build List
KRXNY Full 2000W Peak 4000W Off Grid Pure Sine Wave 12V DC Power Inverter
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
$272.00
Renogy 200 Watts 12 Volts Monocrystalline Solar Bundle Kit
(2x solar panel, charge controller, wiring)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
$292.46
Super Start Marine - Deep-Cycle Marine Battery Part # 27DCMJ
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/ma...
$91.99
BLACK+DECKER BM3B 6V and 12V Automatic Battery Charger / Maintainer
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
$16.78
600 lb. Capacity Heavy Duty Hand Truck
www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-...
$39.99
6-Outlet Power Strip Surge Protector with 4 USB Charging Ports
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06...
$19.89
Cllena Dual USB Socket Charger 2.1A&2.1A + LED Voltmeter + 12V Power Outlet + ON-OFF Toggle Switch Four Functions Panel
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
$26.99
Pro Trucker 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Wire Harness SAE Connector Bullet Lead Cable - (10 Gauge / 24")
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
$7.51
4 Way Circuit Standard ATO Blade Fuse Box Block Holder 12V
www.amazon.com/Support-Truck-...
$6.99
Total Cost: $774.60 + tax
Exceeds Goal Zero Yeti 1400 Solar Kit + cart (1400W/132Ah) at $2,510 - Jak na to + styl
Very good rendition on the upgrade and comparison! Exciting videos for us regular folks with limited pocketbooks! Thank you so much!
This is the exact kind of cart and build I'm currently working on. It's mobile and compact, perfect. Thanks for sharing all the revisions.
You got black and decker in there. That is awesome. ...And seldom seen. Hearty cheers to that.
I am on a tight budget right now but the way things are going right now I really want to start preparing. This is a great setup thank you for posting.
I'm building something like this to power my cabin. Thanks so much for the idea, people like you have helped a great deal in the build and set up of my mountain paradise !
I’ve just completed the fourth revision / rebuild of the solar generator, and I’m running the measurement testing to see the improvements. This time the video will show how it’s constructed. Of course, there will be a wiring diagram and complete parts list. I’ll also include the downloadable Design Guide worksheet so you can build your own project, evaluate your existing system, or play “what if?” with possible upgrades. There’s ready a Design Guide video with the worksheet download link at czcams.com/video/6glK8-IcDgEH/video.htmlope it helps in paradise.
No comments, your unit is excellent! congrats and thank-you for showing it!
Thank you for the kind comment.
Hi love the simplicity of you unit and multiple methods of charging. In NZ every thing is far more expensive. I plan to do something similar over time. The only thing I might change is move everything up the trolley and try and get two batteries in there. Appreciate the advice keep up the great work.
Thanks for the ideas, have made one but it’s on small rollers . Will get a hand truck like you, looks easy to travel
Your first one was nice but this one is spot on. Great work.
Thanks for the early feedback - I’m very happy with the upgrade. I’m going to put it through it’s paces and report back.
Wow this guy is awesome! thanks man. i watched a few of you vids. I was like, how come I didn't find your videos 2 or 3 years ago. I understand know what you mean about research and I watched a lot of videos. Yours are by fare very informative and to the point. Thanks
Very nice evolution of your portable power station, especially the pure sine wave inverter and fuse block.
I believe I have the same Harbor Freight handtruck if your's also has the same center tube offset from the side rails. making wood back panel problematic.
I'm in mid-Atlantic area so we have cold wet winters and hot humid summers, so weather protection of all the electronics is critical. Solved this by keeping my handtruck inside or under cover in small tool shed. An inexpensive 30 ft 10AWG solar extension cable with MC4 connectors allows me to place my 4 100W Renogy panels for best production and connect to inverter with little voltage drop. Easy to store coiled cable on handtruck with velcro straps. Your version two is most likely close to optimum weight for ease of handling. Adding another 30-35 lbs for 2 solar panels would make my unit too heavy and cumbersome given my terrain which is not so flat. So they're on another truck. Maybe you can publish your unit's gross weight.
My handtruck has an 12V 100Ah AGM battery at 63lbs. An additional bank of 3 stationary batteries gives me a 400Ah capacity. You can always upgrade the battery/ies as need and budget allows.
Thanks for posting the project.
30 FT - 10 AWG Solar PV Multi-Conductor Tray Cable - 600V Type TC Cable www.amazon.com/dp/B01KWFGFQ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MnrBAbE818Y7M about $26 shipped, just need MC4 connectors, both red and black cables sheathed into single cable, nice and tidy.
Thanks for the detail - very informative. I appreciate the knowledge and experience you’ve taken the time to share. All the comments here have really influenced my thinking, and the direction of the project. The rev 2 unit is 100lb
I am following your kit!
Thanks for the great vid!! Short sweet and to the point,,, and good info!!!
That USB Socket Charger + LED Voltmeter + 12V Power Outlet looks very useful, Thanks
Yes - the unit is inexpensive, and really enhances the project. Getting direct 12V and USB power without the inverter is more efficient use of stored power, and the voltage monitor helps you protect the battery.
Very nice i built a system in my shed for power outages that has 3 100ah batteries 4 100w solar panels but i have a crappy inverter 1000w msw it wont start motors..after watching your video it gave me great ideas. Thanks. Mike T N.G. Maine
Sounds like you've put together the basis of an excellent system. Glad you liked the ideas. Watch for my next video on 5he real-world testing. There"'lol be a few more ideas that you'll like...
the wiring diagram is so useful, thanks a lot!
Happy it helps. Check out the Builder’s Guide video - it has links to a design worksheet that will do all the engineering math to be sure you get the most capable and cost-effective generator. All the best...
It was an awesome unit before, now it is God Like! Great improvements! This is what I am looking to build for amateur radio. Great job!!
Not sure if you are an amateur radio operator or not, but an Anderson Powerpole connection would be a huge help for amateur radio.
I love this idea! The unit also could be a great base for a mast. Strap a 16 or 20 foot telescope to the upright, and you could get a 2m antenna up, supported with either folding tripod supports or guy wires...
just a great video and awesome. ideas. Thanks for posting.
Excellent video and great narration. I've often wondered why people with electric hybrids vehicles, cordless tools, cordless mower etc, couldn't all have a great docking station for the house. Imagine if the power went out, using all those as your "reserve" power. Advanced thinking for the future.
Thanks for the kind feedback.
Excellent... Thank you for this
For where you live, I think you have done an EXCELLENT job! I'm 63 years young with some physical challenges. Given my limitations; I wanted something like this, so I built a smaller scale version. Since its just my wife and I with a small house and a couple of small pets, I don't need as big a system.
So, with that thought in mind, I borrowed a Pelican 1430 Waterproof Case from a friend to test my idea. I made my own Gauge Plate out of 1/8 inch ABS plastic, and it now holds a Mohoo 30 Amp Charge Controller (Will change that out to a Renogy Wanderer like YOU have), 3 2-position usb pods (Switched), A digital voltage indicator (Switched), 2 12 Volt Sockets (1 Switched), 2 Anderson Dual port Sockets (1 Switced), A switched input/Output Control Pod for the Solar Charge Controller, and a small pair of Battery Posts to connect to external Batteries should the need arise. THIS IS JUST THE CASE & THE INSTRUMENTS. The Control Board lifts out and has a Quick-Disconnect to the pair of Bioenno 12 Volt 15 Amp LiFePO4 Batteries which also have a 4 Amp Lipo charger; a 6 Amp Charger is in the plan. Additionally, I have Two Anderson Powerpole Cig Buddy Plugs, Two power pole 5 Foot Jumper Cords, a USB "Octopus" to interface various usb devices, an 8 foot usb external jumper cord JUST IN CASE, a Goal Zero Mini usb L.E.D. 100 Lumen Lamp, a Goal Zero Lite A Life 350 Lumen 12 Volt L.E.D. Lamp, and a 100 Watt Modified Sine Wave Inverter. Ultimately, it will have a 400 Watt PURE Sine Wave Inverter. I plan to add a Bioenno 80 Watt Folding Solar Panel Kit to complete the system.
THIS setup cost me about $1150.00 to build.
While this is not Pocket Change by any means, it does meet MY needs, which are:
A. It needed to be light enough that my Wife and I can move it around easily as we are getting older.
B. It weighs in at under 30 Pounds.
C. It will interface with EVERY Commercial system currently on the Market.
D. It will run our lower powered lights & devices for RIDICULOUSLY long periods of time between charges.
E. When closed up, IT IS COMPLETELY WEATHERPROOF!
F. It is USER-SERVICEABLE. The Commercial units are NOT!
G. It can be charged by Solar, a Motor Vehicle, or Grid Power. A Motor Vehicle can fully charge the unit in 45 MINUTES!
H. It will stow in the trunk of a car or in the extended Cab area of a Pickup OUT OF SIGHT.
It Looks FABULOUS!!!!! Now that I have established proof of concept, I'm looking for lower cost suppliers, because my Church Officials, and even some in Law Enforcement have voiced very positive opinions of my build. There may be a business opportunity here, LOL!
Awesome job! Your project sounds like a labor of love - I’m sure you enjoyed every minute of it. I’m impressed with the engineering, and your voices of components. Well done! Thanks for sharing the d4tsils - they are very meaningful to me, and to a lot of other people.
If you are comfortable putting an email address on here, I'll send you a photo.
THANK you for the kind words!
The version I plan to market will have a 28 Ah AGM Battery pack. Optional-and I have it in my prototype is a 40 Amp Bioenno Battery LiFePO4 System. I'm going to build a new Control Head with a reduction in usb pods from 6 to 2, and in the accessories pouch add a $10.00 4 usb Bus strip. This will reduce weight, cost to build and draw on the battery.
Bruce Forster did you market them yet?
Great job buddy n thank u for sharing on building ur solar Generator experience👍
My pleasure! Check out the vuilder’s guide video - in the next day or two...
You sir earned yourself another subscriber 👍
Great video
Thank you - much appreciated. All the best to you...
Great info and awesome build.
Thanks for the kind comment. I’ll be posting a buider’s guide video, wiring diagrams and a solar generator design worksheet tomorrow, so be sure to check back. Subscribe if you’d like to be notified...
Great video. You may encounter a problem using a power strip. I have a Power Source 1800 Solar that I inherited. The instruction specifically advise not using a power strip. I had to replace the batteries recently in the unit and discovered why they advise not using one. The unit has 5 15a rated outlets and inside there are individual wires to each one. I believe the size wire run to these outlets are too small gauge to run a power strip with multiple devices all running at the same time. Thanks for the video.
From your comment, I can see why they’d be concerned about having a lot of load running through small wires. On this particular unit, each of the two inverter outlets needs to handle at least 1000W, so It’s not vulnerable to the same issue. The unit also has overload protection that sounds a warning and shuts down the inverter. Your advice is still good for people building a unit with a smaller inverter - just because you have a lot of outlets, it doesn’t mean it’ll handle big loads you could plug in.
This great! One small improvement I can envision is a rotating mounting bracket for the battery to allow the unit to be laid down with out removing the battery. I would also like to see an accessory shelf for convenience. A simple folding design could also allow for the shelf to become a protective cover of some components when not in use as a shelf.
Thanks for the suggestion. Switching to an AGM battery would also allow the unit to lay over, since it’s sealed and won’t leak. The shelf would be an easy addition, and could hold devices while they charge or a small TV...
great job that thing is awesome.
Drill holes in the angle iron base, and bolt on "forks" to hall your panels . could attache a rack to the dolly at the top. That way you could move everything. Cargo strap could be used to secure everything together.
That could work pretty well. Have to balance the convenience against the weight addition. The rev 2 unit is 100lb and might be too much for my wife with much more weight.
Would be good if you had to move the whole thing a ways. Leverage is the thing to watch. Even small people can move a lot of weight with proper leverage. Depends on how mobile you need the whole unit.
This is a really great setup, and I would love to build it. I just checked to see whether you had posted any updates - I didn't see any - have I missed something?
Looks well thought out
Though would like to see some insulation under batteries
Old school rumor. Batteries drain on concrete
Also would like to add battery kill switch
Thanks for posting that it's very helpful.
I know you have your reasons for the cart but I think a small wagon would be easier to move around and you could figure out a way to mount the panels to it, but that just highlights the best feature of your design, it's flexible.
I think at this point it would be nice to have a wiring diagram too.
Good idea. I’ve posted a wiring diagram - check the description for the link. I’m just finishing a builder’s guide video, and will be posting that along with a design worksheet in the next day or two.
I was thinking, there are some of those hand trucks that can be converted to a 4 wheel dolly. Can the system be installed in that configuration?
Cool build, I think I'd replace the fuses with resettable circuit breakers. Fuses might not be available where you are at the time. Also would upgrade to a lifepo4 battery. It's more expensive but your wattage/weight ratio is a huge improvement.
A battery upgrade is definitely a good idea. I like lithium, but it’ll double the cost of the unit. Some viewers may go that way, though.
I keep seeing the black dots in the fields of the solar panel...but GREAT video...I have a 250 watt solar panel on my 1st gen Honda CR-V. I'm not functional yet, because I'm still looking at my options...I plan to incorporate a teardrop trailer shortly, so I want to think about that...
Thanks for the kind comment. Good luck on your project...
BEAUTIFUL>>>>>>
Thanks - glad you liked it...
I'm an amateur radio operator, so I'd add a bank of power pole outlets to the rig. They'd have very little usefulness to most folks, though.
Beautiful build.
I am confused why you have the Black and Decker charger, is that just to keep it topped up when unit is in storage? Great videos too. Very inspiring.
looks great. Have you thought about storm protection?
that is a really neet unit. looking to build something like that my self. only im going to incorporate supper caps for instant use if I need it right away they charge faster but don't last as long as the lead acid or other batteries but you would have instant use. and they would beable to bleed into the battery.
I would add a mounting bracket for the solar panels and include sliding brackets for a second pair of panels that I could switch on if desired. I would hinge the brackets so I could pivot the panels forward, allowing the array to tuck in on the sides neatly. The rig could then be moved as one unit. I would also consider larger wheels or a second hand cart with more batteries.
Solar panels mounted to to frame rails on hinges is a very interesting idea. I’ve been thinking about how to create a moveable frame for the solar panels that can be easily adjusted for both direction and incline of the panels.
A battery cart is also a very interesting idea. Perhaps two that can be rotated, so one is charging while the other is supplying power.
awesome!! maybe build your own lithium battery with recycled 18650's :D you might need a 24v inverter and make sure your DC stuff can handle the 24v that would be 7S so 25.9v nominal 21v min and 29.4v max. Anyway great video thanks for designing something for people to go by!
I would add hinges to the solar panels and mount them to the uprights of the hand truck. This would make a completely, self-contained unit. Other than that.....great job!!!
Thanks for the suggestion. I’d considered it but in the low sun of winter, keeping the panels out the shade during e day would be challenging if they’re on the cart. aid would up mounting them up high for all-day sun.
Did you consider the optima blue top deep cycle battery? Just curious. Although it is nearly 300 bucks, it is an great battery that can be turned on it's side or even upside down.
Did you run into any issues with wall-wart type AC adapters not clearing the inverter?
Do you have anything that shows me how you added the disconnect cable to the solar cable?
Can i ask?
If it is Ok that my set up in battery is 12v and it is ok if i have 24v solar panel wired to a controller go through the battery?
I just noticed the link to your wiring diagram goes to a blank page. Will you be updating this link? Thanks!
What are you views on the krxny inverter more partically 3000watt
its probably been suggested, but perhaps add a small shelf to rest the smaller devices being charged by USB?
It’s a very good idea - thanks.
Should use a mmpt controller for better power from solar. The old style your using works but with a charge time increase
Good idea. I appreciate the suggestion.
you should put better protection over the battery poles such as an innertube from a bicycle tire or a thick garden hose you cut up along so you can pull it over and so you can easily remove and still protect against falling over the poles
and you should put a strap over the battery so it does not bounce if you pull it over bumps
I’ve ordered boots for the battery terminals, but I like the inner tube and garden hose ideas. I’ve also added som split-loom to the wiring so it’s dressed more nicely. Thanks for the ideas - everyone that sees the video will benefit from your thoughts.
Better yet, just get one of those big plastic Battery Boxes from a Tire Shop or RV supply. Modify the cage at the bottom of the lift truck if you need to, then set the battery in the box, the box in the Hand truck, and run the wires out of the box. The battery is now protected from the rain-SIMPLE FIX. I commend you for your Ingenuity!
Covering the battery posts is good, but you should also cover the other battery connectors to prevent a short.
Yup - everything needs to be protected. Stay tuned for Rev 3...
Johnson power pole has an digital battery monitor for automatic battery shutoff that is set by the user.
Cool equipment, and way upscale. Thanks for the info - it may be useful in the future...
Excellent approach to explaining the why’s and how’s. One question, how do you mount the panels. I would be interested in your approach.
I originally thought I could find a good spot to use them at ground level, but that’s harder than I expected. I finally built two wood frames to mount them on the structure that shades our BBQ. I used a carpenter square to find the best angle in the end of Dec, when the sun is at its lowest - about 23 degrees here. That gives them full sun pretty much all day. The angle will be less optimal toward summer, but I’m hoping the higher sun intensity will likely ameliorate that. There’ll be more detail in the upcoming video...
Desert Prep thanks for answering so quick. Are you planning any vids on how this has worked for you. I really like the portability aspect of this. Makes me wish I lived in more southern climes. Lol
Yes - I'm working on an analysis video based on real-world testing I've been doing this month. It'll be ready in the next week.
I have the same inverter but lost the manual. I think the low voltage safety was tripped and need to know what or if there are any reset instructions. Currently, when I switch the inverter on, the AC attached accessory shuts off after a few second. The red light comes on too and sometimes blinks a few times.
I'd look into using Panasonic's HIT panels @ 325 watts each, much higher compact battery storage and the proper management device and inverter. Probably a bigger hand truck or Wagon as well. Along with the other conveniences you already have. Two most important things in long term power failures are heat plant and refrigerator, and usually shorter days. It's OK to spend as much as a commercial unit if it has exponentially better power capacity.
Just looked at the Panasonic panels. They produce 325W with roughly 20 sqft of surface area vs the Renogy panels at 100W in just under 8 sqft. Also 60V vs 22V, so likely a different charge controller. Perhaps they’d bettter suited to at 24V or 48V system?
I'm new to this, but I suspect the Panasonics are geared more for permanent rooftop home setups! The output voltage is the biggest indicator. The 12V systems compliment camping and RV setups. However, if there's a will, there is a way to make these work in a more portable setup. If not now, hopefully soon enough! If and when I do one of these, it will be a high output version. Anything less will torture me.. LOL
the biggest cheep change i would make is to move the plywood to the other side of the cart and make spots for 2 or 3 more batteries that could be added as an option the extra mounts could also be used for shelf's to hold small things that are charging or a 2 way radio. not being a real prepper i have a small set up in my shop i used 2 inverters one 400 watt and a 3000 watt so i can use what i need and avoiding wasted un needed power inverting and along that thought proses using ikea type lighting have changed much of my house to run on 12 volt LED lighting and ruining it off my battery bank 3 like yours i dont have the flicker thing that some ac stuff lets through
I like the two inverter idea- I’d like to see what the current differential is between the large and small inverters...
I also like the LED lighting idea. We changed every bulb in our house to LED a year ago (still 120VAC). and really like the power savings. (Nice to never have to replace a bulb again, too.)
i have a thing for being cheep as i can and try to look at things from a different angle i have called a few contractors (im in south Ontario Canada) most want to see a bunch of my power bills so they can set me up to run all 120/240ac they would use 1 or 2 huge inverters and 48volt or higher on the dc side. my idea is to use what is most common on the dc 12volt if you look around your house i bet you would be shocked by how many adapters are making 12volt dc so an inverter makes heat and an adapter makes heat or power loss i prefer to try to cut out the extra steps. in kind of the same way i gor a couple little 80 watt inverters at walmart on sale and have bin playing around with the idea of using even smaller inverters on stuff like a ceiling fan using the wall switch to turn the inverter on and off, i think for me if things got real tough for a long time i can think of lots of places i can find parts and stuff to use or charge on 12 volt using more smaller inverters leaves more options if one dies. like i have said im not a real prepper but i am Canadian we get winter the power goes off cars dont always run or cant ge through so i have food for 6 to 12 months couple ways to heat and 3 ways to make power most of my stuff gets used almost every day so when the power dose go out or what ever for my family and i dont have to change so much from what is normal
Sounds very familiar. I once lived not far from you. Now I’ve got sun to spare, and snow shoveling is a distant memory. Your approach to possible situations is quite like mine - probably, boy scout in me still lives...
for me i think its about the challenge of having ideas and then testing them as cheep as i can. its a while since i put up a video but if you look on my channel i try to do a bit of everything just cheaper
I would get away from the Plywood ENTIRELY!
Marine Supply stores have, or can GET, 2 BY 2 Foot 1/2 inch think pieces of ABS Plastic. Our local supplier has them for about $25.00 for one of these. It would look better than his plywood setup, and not be subject to the weather.
I need to find out if this thing can power a medium sized water heater...
With the way you wired your 12v quick connect with the + exposed you stand a chance of arcing with contact metal on your build I have all ways prefered to cover it to protect it from accidental contact and blown fuses.
Thanks for pointing it out, but I think everything is alright. The system isn’t grounded, so the only place it could theoretically arc is to the negative battery terminal (or something wired to it). This is a big deal in automotive systems where nearly everything metal is a potential ground for a loose 12V wire. Nevertheless, good practice would be for the connector to expose the negative and have the positive covered. This is actually correctly done on the unit - the power through the connector comes from the solar panels, and the positive connector on that side is not exposed. The connector on the controller side could still arc if battery power feeds back through it, so I checked that. Nothing, so the connector is as it should be, and there’s no risk of arcing. I appreciate your comment, though - it’s nice of you to take the time to help me by pointing out a possible issue. Sharp eye you’ve got. :)
What gauge wire size is needed for the connections ?
I would just add another battery for more reserve. But it's awesome
Have you heard of CTEK?
WOW
I just ordered everything from your original video without watching this video. So now I am unsure if I should return the Go power inverter and get the one you listed in this video. The one you listed in this video shows not available at amazon but offers a comparable on it by the same company. I just wonder if I can return it without having to pay return shipping. I have prime membership so I will call to see if I can return it without any shipping fees.
Update: Was able to cancel original order and now have new pure sine inverter.
I need something like this but with more power storage. Could we talk about it? Could you sell me it?
My only complaint is that the panels would need to be carried separately, maybe incorporate a way to attach them to the cart for moving the whole system around (and I know the YETI version they don't attach either).
Others are saying to get the AGM batteries, but for this usage, I think the high quality marine battery is fine.
Having more batteries on my system helps ìt all fits on my cart too. I want to show you a picture but dont know how to do that on a CZcams comment mike
Do you still have the wiring diagram available? The link no longer works.
Looks awesome. Do you have a wire diagram?
I’ll post complete builder’s info, including a schematic in a couple of weeks. I’d like to incorporate more of the ideas people have been sharing.
Try to use 2 - 6 volt golf cart batteries with 215 and up amp hours each instead of the 95 amp hours 12 volt for much and double longer runs of high wattage appliances . It’s maybe heavier but it will certainly serve best for starters using the same inverter , charge controller , plug in charger , solar panels and power accessories as before but the best still at lower affordable price then the yeti .
Yes - the weight certainly goes up, but the capacity is considerably higher. The batteries are a better choice discharge-wise.
I want to make a copy to power my fish/ storage room, I want to start with a box for the battery with feet so I can pick it up with my folding hand truck if needed, otherwise the rest will be similar, how do I know if the battery\panels are big enough?
Sounds like a fun project. Check out the the builder’s guide video ( czcams.com/video/6glK8-IcDgE/video.html ). There’s a link in the comments for a design calculator worksheet. You can download it and evaluate various choices for the components, so your build will be a complete success.
The link to the wiring diagraming is missing. Is there a new location? Thanks
Great video I would love to build one but kind of nervous want to build a 5000 watt portable unit can you help only difference is I want o place it in a case of some type can you help me with this thx in advance
The design can scale up. You can use downloadable design worksheet to do the calculations. You’ll need to select an inverter with the power rating needed for your expected load, and add more batteries and solar panels. Good luck with you project.
I wanna build one on a garden cart; should carry a few extra pounds of batteries an such
Garden cart - perfect! That’ll carry a lot more battery, and be very portable. Great concept!
Can you do a video on what it takes to maintain a normal house house hold 1 person , that will run a 60 flat screen & ps game station/ DVD player , a central air unite that accommodates a 100 square foot cabin, & normal size refrigerator, & normal washer & dryer , & a normal 60 watt lights as needed
I’m just finishing a builder’s guide video, with wiring diagram, and a design worksheet. The design sheet will calculate exactly what you’ll need to build a system with the capabilities you’ve outlined. Check back in a day or two...
For $80 more than version 1. Can't wait to see the 3rd!?!
Rev 3 is pretty cool, and much more capable. Cost has also increased, but seems to be well worthwhile. Video in about a week...
👍
So I have a similar set up but my inverter keeps shutting down whenever I put over 500watts through it. I have a 2k inverter with dual new 6v deep cycle batteries so it should have plenty of juice to pull from? Bad inverter possibly?
Was a bad inverter...
Possibly defective inverter, but you may want to check the battery voltage at the inverter posts. If the wire is too thin, the voltage may drop below the safety level of the inverter which will cause it to shut down. Current on the 12V side will be roughly 10x that needed to power your AC device, so 500W at 120VAC will require 500 / 120 x 10 = 41.7A @ 12VDC. If the input wiring is too thin or too long, the voltage will drop -- a lot. To get 2000W, you'll need roughly 170A, so you're into car jumper territory. You can measure the length and look up required wire gauge on line. Good luck.
@@DesertPrep it’s a zero awg wire, it ended up being a faulty inverter and now I’ve actually switched over to a single 100ah LiFePO4 to save weight and it’s working great!!
I have thought about building something like this and I have come to this conclusion. Great for short term outages. Great for recharging small battery devices indefinitely -- cell phones? then I thought if it is really bad, how long will the cell towers work? [some cell towers have generators/ups power, some do not] Internet? My local supplier loses power to their cable boxes on the street poles regardless if I have back up or not. There have been times I have power, but others next street don't have power, and I don't have tv/web/phone since the suppliers boxes don't have power. I would use my gas generator occasionally to run my fridge/freezer till the food inside was gone, and then not worry about powering it again. I'd switch to dry foods. I have gas/generators for running the fridge/freezer. This unit would be great, silent, to recharge flashlight batteries for a long time. just my 2 cents worth.....
It seems exposed to the elements. Is this weatherproof?
No - it’s not designed to be left in the elements. We’re in the southwest desert (great for sun) and it’s under the patio roof right now where the unit itself won’t be in either direct sun, nor rain if we have any. I have about 30 feet of wiring which reaches the solar panels.
Hybrid idea on battery power. Use two 6 volt deep cycle batteries in series. Each are 200 to 220 hr rating at 20 amp discharge rate. Two in series get you a full 100 to 110 hr rating at 20 amps at 12 volts at 50% discharge. Price at Cosco is $82.00 a battery. Your cart can easily handle the extra battery. I use this setup on my motorhome. Most marine/deep cycle 12 volt batteries like yours carry a 20 amp delivery rating of 95 to 100 hrs. This equals ~1.3Kwh for $164.00 plus tax.
2 GC2 are only good for 10 amps @ 120vac for roughly 1hr. To get just 1 amp of 120v for 1 hr from inverter output you need 12 amps of 12v dc from the battery. 2000w Inverter is overkill, one 1/3 the size for this little battery. Grp 27 battery will only give you about 50 a/hr @20hr rate 50% discharge.
Do you have video showing your setup being used because just showing a assembled unit doesn't mean anything if it isn't shown in use.
I’ve been running some real-world tests, and will have a video in a week...
First, it is good that these type videos are out there, and get people not only thinking about solar, but also, educated so as not to fall for "junk" like the "1800 solar generator", Goggle that, and you will find several examples.
Not discussed here are very important Safety Standards, i.e. NEC 690. If you are going to build anything in the kilowatt size, do yourself a favor and enroll in a class at your local community college, or on-line. It could literally save your life, or your family from a fire. I have seen too many videos of extension cords run room to room, or even to various levels...not good! Also, you will learn the importance of only using DC rated components in DC circuits, and the appropriate wire type and size.
I build solar generators, and learned a long time ago that using lithium vs lead is the only way to go. Once I ran a side by side test of a brand new 92AH AGM (East Penn) against a 40AH Lithium Iron Phosphate (Valence), it was a no-brainer. Lithium will charge much faster, has practically 0 self-discharge, and will not lose capacity when pushed hard. You can draw 40, 80, and on some Lithium batteries, 120 amps from a 40AH battery, with little loose. Lead has high internal resistance, which is why your car is dead after sitting for months, This high internal resistance also causes heat during discharge, which leads to inefficiencies, and lower performance. That is why a 100AH lead battery will be rated for 5 amp for 20 hours. Discharge a 100AH lead batter at a 100 amp load, and you will only have 62~68 amps available due to these losses, and, that is before you factor in only discharging to 50%. This is why a 40AH Lithium will out perform a 92AH Lead battery. Factor in the life discharge cycles, and Lead is a Loser!
HINT: MPPT is well worth the money. I only use Genasun charge controllers. They are made in the US, are hermetically sealed, and perform for years at sea and in the Antarctic. Additionally, they have the highest power harvesting, and the lowest off-current draw in the industry. A 10 amp Genasun fed by a 140w panel will blow away a PWM controller fed by 200w of panels.
I could give many more tips, but this is too long already. Keep up the quest folks!
Excellent advice - and most appreciated. A thanks for taking the time to provide so much descriptive detail. I think people with a serious interest in building a solar generator will learn more from comments than from the videos. Thanks for contributing to everyone’s knowledge.
After reading several comments I am not sure which way to go. I have a large house and want to get off the grid. Is this system too small for my needs? Approximately 2,500 sq ft of heated area. I checked into Solar Thermal with HTP Natural Gas water heater recirculating with radiators for a retrofit but that was pricey. Then I thought how about running Solar with water-filled electric baseboard heaters that run on 220 V with only 5 Amp draw for heat and 110 V power to the outlets. Still keeping my forced air natural gas for backup. Any thoughts ?
I want e copel of them
Cool! Thanks for the comment!
With Avasva plans doing something like that was easy.
Add one more battery and you will blow that zero out of the competition.
You’re spot on. I changed the battery type to AGM and added a second battery. Check out the builder’s guide video for the details. I’ll be posting a video on rev 3 in two weeks.
skip buying the invertor (make your own) , wrap a whole bunch of turns 400 of 14 gauge wire inside iron transformer one coil only. The more turns the better. .pulse a transformer with transistor buy washer pump motor and motor to drive washer pump motor and one solar panel to drive motor the volts comming off of washer pump motor will get dumped into transistor to transformer and back to transistor will give you lots of volts and amps A.C to go with it. store energy in caps that connect to plug ins strip. thats all. enough power to run several household items like air conditioner and electric heater. stuff like that. off of ONE solar panel. You can add a battery in there if you want for nigh time use. enjoy.
Something wrong with the math there. One of these panels produces 20V @5A (=100W). If I could invent an inverter with no loss, I could theoretically get 120VAC @ .8333A (=100W). The inverter in the unit is 87% efficient, so it can only produce 87W directly from a single panel...
not to mention would it be sine wave modified or uncontrolled
What happens is you want to add a 220-240v European appliance will it be to handle it? Or would I have to buy a different convertor or add something else?
Try some new solutions from Avasva solutions.
Try the new Tesla battery
Your battery is the weak point. As John Fackrell said you only have about 600 watts of power available IF you discharge at under 5 amps draw (60 watts). If your amp draw is more than that the available power will go down. At full inverter power your battery will last only 15-20 minutes before you draw it below 50% and start doing permanent damage to the battery. Frankly the 2,000 watt inverter is a waste of money on this system. If you want to run such a large inverter you will need more like 4 batteries like yours or two 100 amp hour lithium batteries. Another point is the Renogy Wanderer PWM charge controller. That controller is only 75-80% efficient, so in the real world on a bright sunny day with the panels angled at the optimum angle to the sun you will only get about 150 watts out of the panels, so recharging the battery from a 50% discharge will take AT LEAST 5-6 hours to get back to 85-90% charge. It will take a couple of days to fully recharge the battery. If you want higher efficiency charging from solar you need to buy an MPPT charge controller (95-98% efficient).
I would also caution you against jumpering the system to your car battery. Your car's starting battery is made to deliver high power for short (seconds) periods of time. Drawing it down below 75-80% will greatly shorten its life.
Excellent advice. Flattening a regular car battery is certainly bad for the battery. My concept in the video is that I would be able to power the unit from other batteries should the need arise.
The large inverter allows a few minutes of high-wattage consumption if the situation demands it. Since power consumption scales with load, I’m not sure a smaller inverter would be beneficial. I don’t yet know if a smaller inverter would save any power, but I have the equipment, so I think I’ll find out. The inverter in the unit is running 87% efficiency.
I think the MPPT controller is definitely a good idea. I think I’ll see if I can measure that, too.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Check out the new Builder’s Guide video. I think you’ll recognize some of the engineering in it. Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowledge...
Very awesome video!!!! i think it is very well made but i highly suggest getting a true deep cycle battery and not a marine battery. simply because a true deep cycle battery has thicker plates in the battery and can handle a load and discharge alot better. And also i would get a 1500 watt inverter rather than a 2000w because 2000 watts on a 12v system is to much for one 12v battery to handle and could explode from a massive amounts of amps being taken out of it. but all and all this is a awesome build and commerical generators are always too much and underpowered. check out my solar generator that i made on my channel and subscibe!!! i think you will like it also i subbed to you. you have a awesome channel
Thanks for the kind comments. Your advice is spot on. You’ll see it pretty much integrated into the real-world test video that’ll be out shortly.
work goes much faster with Avasva plans.
Sorry but lithium batteries have a 95%-100% depth of discharge with no shortening of the batteries life. 50% depth of discharge is a lead acid issue when calculating lithium watt hours you get the FULL amount. 12V 100ah lithium battery will have 1200wh fully usable.
I think you can see how to make it on Avasva . This is just an advice ;)
Check out the new Builder’s Guide video. (czcams.com/video/6glK8-IcDgE/video.html). It discusses the evolution of the unit, and has a link to a design worksheet that does all the engineering math, and a link to download the latest wiring diagram and component list.
LOL - Thaks for the compliment.
Error Message opening your link... Can you correct youtu.be to youtube ?
oops, gave you the wrong URL to my main solar generator video (although it has good information too.) Here is my first video: czcams.com/video/HT6LXzdeGjc/video.html
Nice setup. The main thing I would change is the battery, I'd go with a diy lithium ion or lithium iron phosphate. With that, you can get a similar capacity(or even much higher if you want) battery setup, less weight, and probably at the same price point if you get the right deal on used cells. Lead acid and AGM are nice when they are cheap and you're not moving them around, but I'm not a fan of moving them around when used lithium cells are cheap and easily available.