This was a great explanation of the entire panel. You do a great job being thorough. Those plastic covers are so ingeniously simple. I have one panel at home that has a nice arch spot on it from an incident that happened. I didn't ever think about audible GFI or know that existed. I searched the save big money box store and I did not see them there because that is a must for freezers (I had one trip once, which did not end well for the contents). I cant believe how expensive those are though. The Arc Fault and Dual breakers are nice, but also, damn, I am not disappointed I rewired my houses before those were a thing, I would have been brook 3 times over when replacing entire panels with them costing almost 10x more over breakers.
tour of a main service panel (2018 NEC) 1:20 electrical service wires 1:46 main neutral wire and grounding conductor, to water supply and to ground rods 3:00 *bonding screw* on neutral (/grounding) bus as evidence of this being a Main service panel, not a sub panel [assuming done properly] 4:00 conduits (optional) and protective bushing to protect incoming wires 4:28 *pairs* of smaller wires into each knock-out 4:45 *sheathing* comes a bit into panel 5:35 landed grounds *first* 5:47 each grounding screw has only *one* wire (best option). multiple might be allowed. 6:06 *labels* on sheathing 6:47 *plug-on-neutral breakers* are nice, avoid all the pig-tails, connect directly to the neutral bus 7:08 hot *and* neutral wires connect to arc-fault and dual function breakers. Only hot wire connects to older, standard breakers, and the neutral wire goes directly to the neutral bus. 8:00 load balancing discussion. You want similar amount of power from each 120 leg 9:40 arc-fault circuit vs dual function, which includes a ground-fault. Dual-function breaker means no need for GFCI outlet. Especially great to have dual-function breaker for outdoor outlets. Drawback, if it trips, you gotta reset at panel instead of at outlet. 12:42 *Audible* ground-fault trip outlet is great for important outlets, e.g. pumps, freezers 13:36 2nd wire is colored black on this *AC* (12/2) 20A 240 circuit. Needs to be colored black on *both* ends. *I don't understand this* 15:32 *electric water heater* (10/2) just like AC unit, doesn't need three wires. And has just a standard breaker. 15:58 *electric dryer and electric range* require *three* wires (10/3) (unlike the AC). They have some 120 components that some reason need a neutral to return power. *I don't understand*. Older just had 3 wires, put power "back" on the ground, no longer allowed. 17:20 *water heater* on arc-fault maybe because it has a powered direct-vent component
The outlet hanging on the left of the panel... it is engaging a while breaker for itself only .. I am planning basement and running short of breakers.. can I rmv that and use the breaker for basement rooms etc..? Probably it is not code mandatory?
Good job, good explanation! Some inspectors in some areas may complain about multiple romex cables in a conduit. They might require derateing of the wire due to potential heat build up in a pipe longer than 2'. Same thing going through hole bored in joists with multiple cables but they usually don't bother with that due to the cables only being together for 1 1/2" joist thickness
with romex in a conduit you have to calculate it as if it were a round conductor, thus a single 14/2 (by southwire) is about 91mm2 ( (pi/4) * 10.7442 ^2) ), and 12/2 is about 109mm2. conduits have a max fill of 40% with more than 3 wires. a 2" conduit has a 849mm2 (Article 362) of usable space at 40%. hence you can fit in 9 14/2 wires or 7 12/2 wires. it looks like they've got at least 9 wires consisting of a mix between 12 and 14 so sufficed to say they are over fill. 3" probably would have done the trick.
Excellent videos for a do it yourselfer like myself, In Tijuana Mexico electricians like " you" are very sloppy, the only good electricians at your level are only electrical engineers and they are very expensive, sow i prefer to do it myself, and your videos are a bundle of help. My brother in law is an electrical engineer in San Diego CA and when I ask him for help he explains thing 10 times faster than you, sow that's suck's. thats why your videos are awesome. Thanks
First...love your content and enjoy watching all of your videos! Nice job man! What is the best route to take to “transition” to a NEW breaker panel without having to completely rip & replace/cut the power for long period of time. Basically, I want to install a NEW electrical panel in my house. However, I can’t really cut the power to my house and have my whole house down for several days (give or take). I thought of mounting the NEW panel off to the side, but the current SER cable would reach of course.
Amazing videos man, it really help me organize the big panels at work! Wish I could send you some pictures so you could take a look and give me some more advice!
Ben, you did a fantastic job explaining everything! That panel looks like absolute crap! I know that is not your work, because I saw the 30 minute video of you wiring that 200A panel. Now that’s a piece of art!
I watched a batch of videos as well as internet searching and you finally answered my question! I know the neutral and ground in the main panel are linked. Thus, I was HOPING I could connect the pigtail from AFCI/GFCI breakers to either side (the neutral side or the ground side - as they are connected). Without that, I could not see how to possibly add enough of these to protect all of my circuits as the pigtails could not reach to the other side of the panel. So, NOW I know - in the main panel with neutral/ground bus connected - these breakers can connect to either side. BUT, I assume from what I have seen so far that in the case of sub-panels where the ground and neutrals are separated, that you would want to connect these types of breakers only to the separated neutral bar... correct? Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and explain these systems.
Remove the sheathing before running down the emt pipe, with a choke point( changeover ) at the top of the pipe so the wire sheathing ( Romex jacket)doesn’t rub and fray over time
Love your videos! Have learned A LOT with your easy to understand explanations. I know this isnt your house but heard you say near Omaha Ne! Thats where I live! Anyway Great videos!
6AWG is the largest wire for connection to a ground rod or metal water pipe that is in contact with the earth for at least 10 ft. Supplemental ground rods are not required by code unless you ground rod resistance is more than 25ohms. The shorter the wire for your grounding electrode the better!
In about 14 minutes when he talked about the air conditioner is there a common Or a ground wire on there or do you just use 12 two for the two hotlines.
Thanks for the great videos! I am wondering how you get the Service Enterance cables into the home and protect the cable, and the homes envelop. With SER would you come in with Rigid and then stop once inside? How about a video of which is easier to work with for service enterance Rigid or PVC? With SER cable at the 2/0 and higher, how do you do bends in wall and still maintain code compliance?
Hello, my name is Kimberly Rodriguez thank you so much for this video the explanation was really clear, I am currently a senior in a vocational High School and we are installing a service as a project, with that being said I have a question. You mentioned that for water heaters we can use 10/2 and re -identify the neutral wire, so my question is, would it be wrong if you were to use 10/3 instead of 10/2?. Thanks again
It's not "wrong" per se, just unnecessary. For a basic electric water heater there is no demand for 120v so your neutral conductor in 10/3 cable would serve no purpose. I know there are more sophisticated water heaters out there that have wi-fi capability. Not certain, but those styles may require 120v service in addition to the 240v required for the heating elements, in which case 10/3 cable would be necessary. In today's environment, it's a cost saving measure to use 10/2 cable instead of 10/3 every chance you get.
Excellent video I'd like to see more like this. Also there are comments that this is not the neatest panel. I've seen a lot worse. Could you show one that is neat and point out why. Thanks
If it was me, i use ground bars, in the top of the cabinet. Now they are covered by the breakers. And the pointy ends out, towards the sides. Use GFCI/AFCI combo breakers for everything, except for the special wire to the freezer. Use a normal breaker there (or afc?). Love the video.
That grounds suppose to be continuous not just twisted around the ground rod wire lol , if you bond your main water or gas, make sure you run it back to the panel and land on the grounding bar without splicing or breaks
Great walkthrough! Been watching a lot of your electrical videos and they're all top notch for YopuTube information videos. Had to get my whole box replaced December 2017. None of the breakers are arc fault, but passed inspection. Wondering if that's a very recent code requirement, and if I should go through and replace all of them.
Could you please explain to me why most of the white wires go to the neutral spots (bus) and why some go elsewhere. And how do you know which white ones go where?
Loving your videos. Watched a few in the past couple of days. Nice work. Very educational. I'm looking to add a generator interlock in my subpanel located inside the garage. This subpanel has no main breaker. It supplies the entire home after it gets power from the main panel located on the brick wall outside. The main outside panel has the 200AMP main breaker and the AC breakers. Q1. Is it okay to add an interlock on the outside main panel? There are two slots open that could be used for the 50A Generator breaker. Q2. Instead of going outside, possibly in the rainy/stormy weather, to switch back and forth between utility and generator power, would it be okay to add a 200A or a 150A main breaker in the subpanel and and use the interlock there? If yes, would the Neutral and Ground bars have to be bonded again or should they remain unbonded in the subpanel that would now have a main breaker? Thank you.
We use glands instead of the bushing.For armored cable. Also the earth wire for each circuit is sleeved or else The Standards Bureau would fail it .Very nice video man 👍👍👍
Hi Ben, I've been watching and sub'd for a couple years now and find your vid's and info very straight forward and helpful, so Thank You for what you do. Question is, what are code requirements regarding arc/ground fault breakers or receptacles in an older house when upgrading my main service panel to give me more circuit/power capability (100 to 200 amp)? Does my 1950 Cape Cod Style house have to have all the CAFI and GFCI breakers or receptacles same as a newly built 2019 home does?
Firstly I would say that this is a bit of a grey area. I would contact the inspector in your area and see what they will require as well as what they would recommend. They are usually very helpful with these situations and just want to help the installations that they inspect be as safe as possible. As far as I am aware you are not required to install AFCI & GFCI breakers for a panel upgrade. HOWEVER, I would highly recommend upgrading to AFCI if at all possible as this adds a significant improvement to the safety of the old wiring in your house. Bringing whatever aspects of your electrical system up to current code never hurts and the NEC is designed to keep us safe. So in summary, I would bring it up to current code wherever possible whether or not it is required. Thank you very much for being a subscriber! I appreciate it very much. Good luck on your project and blessings to you from Minnesota! Ben
Ben, I’m trying to add a sub panel to my garage. My main panel is on the outside of the house. The electricians that wired my house ran all the circuits through the back of the box using the big pvc conduit stubs into the wall cavity. The cable I’m trying to run doesn’t look like it’s going to fit because both of those stubs are looking pretty full. The bottom of the box on the exterior looks like it has some knockouts I could use but how do I get the cable from the wall cavity through the knockout properly and keep everything water tight. Thanks, Thomas
Question about the plug on neutral. You said it eliminated the need to have the pigtails. But in this box, they are still there. Do you normally remove the pigtail with the plug on neutral? (Great video explanation, BTW)
You can still use pigtail breakers in a plug on neutral panel. I believe they used them in this case because the pigtail breakers are sometimes cheaper. Great question!! Thanks for asking!
Ben, does NEC 2020 require DF breakers on Disposals or did the installer do something extra? I thought Dishwashers required the 30mA GFCI (Black button) instead of 5mA dual function DF (purple button)?
with both of the AC wires being Hot, it doesn't need a Neutral??? And you said the Arc Fault tail goes to the ground bar and NOT the Neutral bar, is that correct?? (I'm a rookie)))!
Only need a neutral wire if 120V is required on a 220V appliance. Some devices like your furnace or stove are duel voltage systems, using both 120V and 220V so they require a Neutral line. PS. the terms 220V and 240V are used interchangeably and are referring to the same consumer grade voltage systems.
@@chrismitchell6478 At 1:48 etc. it looks like they are going into the main breaker just like the two hot wires, Of course you can't see through the cover of the breaker to observe where they go at that point. So. if the neutral and ground remain connected how, if at all, does this affect feeding a generator into the house wiring, whether by professional approved methods or otherwise? Would the generator be grounded out through the existing house ground and having the generator neutral connected to the incoming neutral presents no problems?
@@bigpardner They travel behind the main breaker. It would grounded through the existing system buy way of the grounding plug but should be grounded separately and properly. One of the most important aspects of grounding is about maintaining the same potential across different devices. If you plan to install a backup generator. It is extremally important to do it correctly. If not done correctly... The transformers on the street etc. will take the power you are creating with your generator and up it to 10s of thousands of volts. you could kill someone working on the lines. They make transfer switches or kits to attach to your panel that prevent this. I should add, I'm not a licensed electrician, I have just been enjoying the subject since I was a young child. I have been working with it since I was like 10yo and I'm almost 40 now (I really should turn it into a profession... lol)
They are very tough to find! Here is the link ( www.se.com/us/en/work/products/explore/service-entrance-barriers/solutions/ ) to the page where they give the details about them but I can't find them online anywhere. Let me know if you find them for sale somewhere.
if its not being inspected yes no problems if it is just check with local inspector most dont have a problem with splices in panels as long as there is room.
If you’re a tradesman,nothing new here at all. Just mediocre work at best. For all of the novices out there. Beware! Electricity bites hard and is unforgiving!
My odd likes to see the wire sheathing cut straight across and not just ripped off. Great Channel
This was a great explanation of the entire panel. You do a great job being thorough. Those plastic covers are so ingeniously simple. I have one panel at home that has a nice arch spot on it from an incident that happened. I didn't ever think about audible GFI or know that existed. I searched the save big money box store and I did not see them there because that is a must for freezers (I had one trip once, which did not end well for the contents). I cant believe how expensive those are though. The Arc Fault and Dual breakers are nice, but also, damn, I am not disappointed I rewired my houses before those were a thing, I would have been brook 3 times over when replacing entire panels with them costing almost 10x more over breakers.
tour of a main service panel (2018 NEC)
1:20 electrical service wires
1:46 main neutral wire and grounding conductor, to water supply and to ground rods
3:00 *bonding screw* on neutral (/grounding) bus as evidence of this being a Main service panel, not a sub panel [assuming done properly]
4:00 conduits (optional) and protective bushing to protect incoming wires
4:28 *pairs* of smaller wires into each knock-out
4:45 *sheathing* comes a bit into panel
5:35 landed grounds *first*
5:47 each grounding screw has only *one* wire (best option). multiple might be allowed.
6:06 *labels* on sheathing
6:47 *plug-on-neutral breakers* are nice, avoid all the pig-tails, connect directly to the neutral bus
7:08 hot *and* neutral wires connect to arc-fault and dual function breakers. Only hot wire connects to older, standard breakers, and the neutral wire goes directly to the neutral bus.
8:00 load balancing discussion. You want similar amount of power from each 120 leg
9:40 arc-fault circuit vs dual function, which includes a ground-fault. Dual-function breaker means no need for GFCI outlet. Especially great to have dual-function breaker for outdoor outlets. Drawback, if it trips, you gotta reset at panel instead of at outlet.
12:42 *Audible* ground-fault trip outlet is great for important outlets, e.g. pumps, freezers
13:36 2nd wire is colored black on this *AC* (12/2) 20A 240 circuit. Needs to be colored black on *both* ends. *I don't understand this*
15:32 *electric water heater* (10/2) just like AC unit, doesn't need three wires. And has just a standard breaker.
15:58 *electric dryer and electric range* require *three* wires (10/3) (unlike the AC). They have some 120 components that some reason need a neutral to return power. *I don't understand*. Older just had 3 wires, put power "back" on the ground, no longer allowed.
17:20 *water heater* on arc-fault maybe because it has a powered direct-vent component
The outlet hanging on the left of the panel... it is engaging a while breaker for itself only .. I am planning basement and running short of breakers.. can I rmv that and use the breaker for basement rooms etc..? Probably it is not code mandatory?
Thank you very much. I was able to finish wiring my barn. I cannot thank you enough. Excellent video
Let me know an observations you have of things that you like and or things that you would do differently!
better explanation than any given in my electrician program!!
Those Insulators ARE cool! Your explanations are outstanding- 3 wire versus 2 wire, 220/110 - maestro level!
Very big help. Even if you don’t do the work it’s good to know what’s going on.
Great video !!! Wonderful job at explaining things !!
- Apprentice Wireman
I sure appreciate the panel you did in another one of your videos now.
Good job, good explanation! Some inspectors in some areas may complain about multiple romex cables in a conduit. They might require derateing of the wire due to potential heat build up in a pipe longer than 2'. Same thing going through hole bored in joists with multiple cables but they usually don't bother with that due to the cables only being together for 1 1/2" joist thickness
with romex in a conduit you have to calculate it as if it were a round conductor, thus a single 14/2 (by southwire) is about 91mm2 ( (pi/4) * 10.7442 ^2) ), and 12/2 is about 109mm2. conduits have a max fill of 40% with more than 3 wires. a 2" conduit has a 849mm2 (Article 362) of usable space at 40%. hence you can fit in 9 14/2 wires or 7 12/2 wires. it looks like they've got at least 9 wires consisting of a mix between 12 and 14 so sufficed to say they are over fill. 3" probably would have done the trick.
Love your attitude, and detail. Great videos!
8:39 great info on the alternating sides for double poles.
Love your videos.
Some great information and good guidance provided here. Thanks
Excellent videos for a do it yourselfer like myself, In Tijuana Mexico electricians like " you" are very sloppy, the only good electricians at your level are only electrical engineers and they are very expensive, sow i prefer to do it myself, and your videos are a bundle of help. My brother in law is an electrical engineer in San Diego CA and when I ask him for help he explains thing 10 times faster than you, sow that's suck's. thats why your videos are awesome. Thanks
First...love your content and enjoy watching all of your videos! Nice job man!
What is the best route to take to “transition” to a NEW breaker panel without having to completely rip & replace/cut the power for long period of time. Basically, I want to install a NEW electrical panel in my house. However, I can’t really cut the power to my house and have my whole house down for several days (give or take). I thought of mounting the NEW panel off to the side, but the current SER cable would reach of course.
Amazing videos man, it really help me organize the big panels at work! Wish I could send you some pictures so you could take a look and give me some more advice!
Ben, you did a fantastic job explaining everything! That panel looks like absolute crap! I know that is not your work, because I saw the 30 minute video of you wiring that 200A panel. Now that’s a piece of art!
Thank you! It is always fun to see how people do things so that we can all learn from it. Thanks for the comments!
I watched a batch of videos as well as internet searching and you finally answered my question! I know the neutral and ground in the main panel are linked. Thus, I was HOPING I could connect the pigtail from AFCI/GFCI breakers to either side (the neutral side or the ground side - as they are connected). Without that, I could not see how to possibly add enough of these to protect all of my circuits as the pigtails could not reach to the other side of the panel. So, NOW I know - in the main panel with neutral/ground bus connected - these breakers can connect to either side. BUT, I assume from what I have seen so far that in the case of sub-panels where the ground and neutrals are separated, that you would want to connect these types of breakers only to the separated neutral bar... correct? Thanks for taking the time to make these videos and explain these systems.
Excellent video! You learned me a crap ton load.
Remove the sheathing before running down the emt pipe, with a choke point( changeover ) at the top of the pipe so the wire sheathing ( Romex jacket)doesn’t rub and fray over time
Love your videos! Have learned A LOT with your easy to understand explanations. I know this isnt your house but heard you say near Omaha Ne! Thats where I live! Anyway Great videos!
6AWG is the largest wire for connection to a ground rod or metal water pipe that is in contact with the earth for at least 10 ft. Supplemental ground rods are not required by code unless you ground rod resistance is more than 25ohms. The shorter the wire for your grounding electrode the better!
In about 14 minutes when he talked about the air conditioner is there a common Or a ground wire on there or do you just use 12 two for the two hotlines.
Excellent, thanks! 👍👍
Thanks for the great videos! I am wondering how you get the Service Enterance cables into the home and protect the cable, and the homes envelop. With SER would you come in with Rigid and then stop once inside? How about a video of which is easier to work with for service enterance Rigid or PVC? With SER cable at the 2/0 and higher, how do you do bends in wall and still maintain code compliance?
Hello, my name is Kimberly Rodriguez thank you so much for this video the explanation was really clear, I am currently a senior in a vocational High School and we are installing a service as a project, with that being said I have a question. You mentioned that for water heaters we can use 10/2 and re -identify the neutral wire, so my question is, would it be wrong if you were to use 10/3 instead of 10/2?. Thanks again
It's not "wrong" per se, just unnecessary. For a basic electric water heater there is no demand for 120v so your neutral conductor in 10/3 cable would serve no purpose. I know there are more sophisticated water heaters out there that have wi-fi capability. Not certain, but those styles may require 120v service in addition to the 240v required for the heating elements, in which case 10/3 cable would be necessary. In today's environment, it's a cost saving measure to use 10/2 cable instead of 10/3 every chance you get.
Excellent video
I'd like to see more like this.
Also there are comments that this is not the neatest panel. I've seen a lot worse.
Could you show one that is neat and point out why.
Thanks
If it was me, i use ground bars, in the top of the cabinet. Now they are covered by the breakers. And the pointy ends out, towards the sides. Use GFCI/AFCI combo breakers for everything, except for the special wire to the freezer. Use a normal breaker there (or afc?). Love the video.
Shocking!
Awesome no. Brother. Very well explained. God bless
That grounds suppose to be continuous not just twisted around the ground rod wire lol , if you bond your main water or gas, make sure you run it back to the panel and land on the grounding bar without splicing or breaks
Great walkthrough! Been watching a lot of your electrical videos and they're all top notch for YopuTube information videos.
Had to get my whole box replaced December 2017. None of the breakers are arc fault, but passed inspection. Wondering if that's a very recent code requirement, and if I should go through and replace all of them.
I want to see more videos like this one. What is a dual purpose breaker you pointed out, explain.
Could you please explain to me why most of the white wires go to the neutral spots (bus) and why some go elsewhere. And how do you know which white ones go where?
16:12 ooohhhhh i did not know that. Interesting. ⚡
Do you happen to have a video on routing wires from primary to box by chance
Good stuff
thank you man, it is helpful
Thank you for the video Brah!!
Suggest removing your ring. It appears you have separate neutral and ground buses bonded with the ground bus going to earth.
OK I’m sorry my question was answered. About the air conditioner wires
Do you have to bond All the way to the PEX pipe in case any one has to work on any part of the system?
In the future do a video on how to install a (automatic) transfer switch. It's wired differently from the manual one. Gracias.👣
Loving your videos. Watched a few in the past couple of days. Nice work. Very educational.
I'm looking to add a generator interlock in my subpanel located inside the garage. This subpanel has no main breaker. It supplies the entire home after it gets power from the main panel located on the brick wall outside. The main outside panel has the 200AMP main breaker and the AC breakers.
Q1. Is it okay to add an interlock on the outside main panel? There are two slots open that could be used for the 50A Generator breaker.
Q2. Instead of going outside, possibly in the rainy/stormy weather, to switch back and forth between utility and generator power, would it be okay to add a 200A or a 150A main breaker in the subpanel and and use the interlock there? If yes, would the Neutral and Ground bars have to be bonded again or should they remain unbonded in the subpanel that would now have a main breaker?
Thank you.
We use glands instead of the bushing.For armored cable. Also the earth wire for each circuit is sleeved or else The Standards Bureau would fail it .Very nice video man 👍👍👍
Hey could you just add a short video of insulating a main panel BEHIND an exterior wall? Thanks!
Hi Ben, I've been watching and sub'd for a couple years now and find your vid's and info very straight forward and helpful, so Thank You for what you do.
Question is, what are code requirements regarding arc/ground fault breakers or receptacles in an older house when upgrading my main service panel to give me more circuit/power capability (100 to 200 amp)? Does my 1950 Cape Cod Style house have to have all the CAFI and GFCI breakers or receptacles same as a newly built 2019 home does?
Firstly I would say that this is a bit of a grey area. I would contact the inspector in your area and see what they will require as well as what they would recommend. They are usually very helpful with these situations and just want to help the installations that they inspect be as safe as possible.
As far as I am aware you are not required to install AFCI & GFCI breakers for a panel upgrade. HOWEVER, I would highly recommend upgrading to AFCI if at all possible as this adds a significant improvement to the safety of the old wiring in your house. Bringing whatever aspects of your electrical system up to current code never hurts and the NEC is designed to keep us safe.
So in summary, I would bring it up to current code wherever possible whether or not it is required.
Thank you very much for being a subscriber! I appreciate it very much. Good luck on your project and blessings to you from Minnesota!
Ben
Ben,
I’m trying to add a sub panel to my garage. My main panel is on the outside of the house. The electricians that wired my house ran all the circuits through the back of the box using the big pvc conduit stubs into the wall cavity. The cable I’m trying to run doesn’t look like it’s going to fit because both of those stubs are looking pretty full. The bottom of the box on the exterior looks like it has some knockouts I could use but how do I get the cable from the wall cavity through the knockout properly and keep everything water tight.
Thanks,
Thomas
So, we really don't need to worry about which breakers go on which side?
If my water meter is 100 ft away, can I connect two 50ft cables using grounding bridge?
Super man!.
Thank u very much, u save my day!!!
Question about the plug on neutral. You said it eliminated the need to have the pigtails. But in this box, they are still there. Do you normally remove the pigtail with the plug on neutral? (Great video explanation, BTW)
You can still use pigtail breakers in a plug on neutral panel. I believe they used them in this case because the pigtail breakers are sometimes cheaper. Great question!! Thanks for asking!
Helped me alot 💯💪
Looks pretty sloppy. They didn't strap any of that emt, and also that 2 inch pvc looks way too filled. Hope they did proper calculations
Did you say unusual for furnace to have a circuit by itself? Have other plugs with it be ok?
Unusual as it was a regular, not ARC fault breaker in that panel
This made my head😟
What are the yellow plastic pieces called over the main wires coming into the panel box powering the panel box, and where do I purchase a set?
Can I install 50amp RV box or outlet , outside house meter box, before main & how to install?
Your pal cal
Hi, I really like your videos . I have a question I need to run a new circuit and the panel is in the stucco how would you add it? Thanks bro
Ben, does NEC 2020 require DF breakers on Disposals or did the installer do something extra? I thought Dishwashers required the 30mA GFCI (Black button) instead of 5mA dual function DF (purple button)?
Good video !!
Great video, as always. Not impressed with the "Thanksgiving stuffed" PVC conduit, but it's good to learn how not to do it. Very helpful!
Hi
Where can I buy that yellow covers on panel?
10:30 ya but then you gotta go to the basement when it trips...
HEY BRO COULD U DO SOME SWITCH GEAR COMMERCIAL GROUNDING BONDING
Can I use a 125 amp panel for 100 amp service?
Are you using 4/0 4/0 2/0 wire for your wire coming into your panel?
What are all of those white coiled wires?
Why on earth would you buy a Plug-On-Neutral panel and use the GFCI/AFCI breakers with pig tails? And our AHJ will not allow Romex in conduit.
PVC or metal conduit?
I'm guessing they used pigtail breakers because they were cheaper? That's all I can think of...
i dont like romex in conduit either, but by code it is allowed.
with both of the AC wires being Hot, it doesn't need a Neutral??? And you said the Arc Fault tail goes to the ground bar and NOT the Neutral bar, is that correct?? (I'm a rookie)))!
Only need a neutral wire if 120V is required on a 220V appliance.
Some devices like your furnace or stove are duel voltage systems, using both 120V and 220V so they require a Neutral line.
PS. the terms 220V and 240V are used interchangeably and are referring to the same consumer grade voltage systems.
Those afci/gfci are making those electrical panels messy, no room for wires around them
Will never understand why dudes don't just use the panel schedule that comes with the panel.
Ben, if your running a sub panel to a shed does that Breaker in the Main panel to the shed need to be Arc fault? Thanks
no
Ben, What's the maximum length allowable for the service wires coming from the meter to the panel?
3-5-6 feet inside the building for the SEU cable. Ask your electrical inspector to know that exactly.
On range 40 amp , is upsizeing wire and breaker ok?
It may have passed inspection but that panel and wiring job in general is nothing to be proud of IMO.
When you open the main breaker cutting off power, does that also cut off the neutral and ground circuits leaving?
No, they are not switched.
@@chrismitchell6478 At 1:48 etc. it looks like they are going into the main breaker just like the two hot wires, Of course you can't see through the cover of the breaker to observe where they go at that point. So. if the neutral and ground remain connected how, if at all, does this affect feeding a generator into the house wiring, whether by professional approved methods or otherwise? Would the generator be grounded out through the existing house ground and having the generator neutral connected to the incoming neutral presents no problems?
@@bigpardner They travel behind the main breaker.
It would grounded through the existing system buy way of the grounding plug but should be grounded separately and properly.
One of the most important aspects of grounding is about maintaining the same potential across different devices.
If you plan to install a backup generator. It is extremally important to do it correctly.
If not done correctly... The transformers on the street etc. will take the power you are creating with your generator and up it to 10s of thousands of volts. you could kill someone working on the lines.
They make transfer switches or kits to attach to your panel that prevent this.
I should add, I'm not a licensed electrician, I have just been enjoying the subject since I was a young child. I have been working with it since I was like 10yo and I'm almost 40 now (I really should turn it into a profession... lol)
Any idea where to buy those yellow lug covers?
They are very tough to find! Here is the link ( www.se.com/us/en/work/products/explore/service-entrance-barriers/solutions/ ) to the page where they give the details about them but I can't find them online anywhere. Let me know if you find them for sale somewhere.
Evan Gurgui if you have to ask I would not recommend messing around in an open panel.
Home Depot and Lowe's carry them, $13.65/ pair
Can I splice ground wire inside the Panel?
4 of my.ground wire were too short
Cant reach.to grounding bar
plz
thanks
if its not being inspected yes no problems if it is just check with local inspector most dont have a problem with splices in panels as long as there is room.
placed the panel directly on the concrete wall?👎🏽
Grounding electrode doggg Dogg forgot that my man yo coming fro. Losangeles buddy
1-2” under 24” an be stuffed don’t like it
2-EMT support within 3’ and needs plastic grommets at top.
3- dish,disposal, and septic pump no GFCI
I would not have a job if I wired a panel that badly. That is a nasty looking rats nest.
I mean, it's not /r/cableporn material, but I've seen far worse. What's the big issue?
Now I know why I prefer to do my own work rather than hire a "professional"
If you’re a tradesman,nothing new here at all. Just mediocre work at best. For all of the novices out there. Beware! Electricity bites hard and is unforgiving!
Thats a ugly panel brah.
Can I use a 125 amp panel for 100 amp service?