Weaning and Ringing Young Canaries | The Canary Room Top Tips
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 7. 05. 2017
- We're well into the breeding season here in The Canary Room! In this video, Matt shows you how he weans and rings his young birds.
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At the age of 60 just got my first pair of canaries. So very much enjoying your videos. I have a lot to learn.thankyou realyenjoying your videos.
new too all this and found it very good ... thanks and keep up the great work
Awesome... enjoyed the vid .. cheers Chris & Sam
4:04 that red canary peeking on the hole :P
very good loving the videos keep them comming regards from ireland...
Nice video! Thank you
Fantastic video and very informative.
Thank you
Thanks for your kind comment, really glad you've enjoyed it
Nice video lots of good information đ and very nice đ„ chicks
Thanks for the comment Jimmy, glad you enjoyed it!
You made your ringing of Canaries very easy. The split rings you put on
Are you able to enter the split ringed Canaries in a bird show?
Hi mate love the video, what age would you ring up your goldfinch?
I have a canary, and his ring says hrv (Hevatska- Croatia - country) 048 and 19F. this 19F means 2019 year ?
Yes
How do I remove the band from the canaries foot? it seems to bother the bird. I feel bad for it....
I have a canary I found it , it breath not well , but he is very happy and eat well , what I can do for her.?
super!!
Really glad you enjoyed it
are useing facebook i wont to send you somthing
Yes, there's a Facebook page for the canary room
Great videos! I am still new to canary breeding, I wanted to know can I pull the male out of the cage when the eggs hatch? Or does he need to stay to help feed the young?
Hi, much depends on the temperament of the cock bird, with my reds I leave them together and both will feed. With my fifes however I have single hens only. Just keep an eye on the cock birds when they're with the young as they can get overly aggressive. Thanks for your kind comments
The Canary Room Ok thanks I ask because the cock killed the previous clutch because he steps on them
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Another good and informative video, Matt.
Matt, a question! Why do you (and the majority of the guys in the fancy) when weaning your birds, just use the one low perch or even sometimes no perches at all? When my birds are weaning I have a few (varying widths/profile) perches in their nursery cage, my reasoning behind that is that I feel the chicks are able to exercise their leg, claw, foot muscularly and generally develop the physiological systems associated etc. I just wondered what the reasoning is behind your strategy?
I work for the BTO as a breeding bird survey so actually wild birds are more my thing, but we glean a great deal of understanding from guys like yourself, experts as it were, in the cage and aviary fancy that have a much closer, more intimate appreciation of the birds, especially the passerines. Long winded question sorry Matt, but hey.. only if you have time you know? Best regards, Leonard
Thanks Leonard, the perches is a really interesting question, itâs something that I picked up when I first started the fancy. I think the idea was twofold, firstly to keep the young birds closer to the food, so essentially theyâre almost sat in it and therefore itâs easier for them to eat. The second reason is that, particularly when you first take them away, some young will just sit on the perch and cheep and call to be fed. So removing the option encourages them to feed themselves. As I say thatâs the theory behind it, in practice Iâm very focused on ensuring that the young are feeding themselves for a number of days before I think of moving them - and strangely this year they seem to be a lot older than usual before I move them away
@@TheCanaryRoom Thanks Matt, I can see your reasoning behind this regarding keeping them closer to their food and thereby encouraging them to feed. I actually have small clip on feeders/dispensers available to them at perch hight as well as on floor. I think the key though as you pointed out is to keep a close eye on the chicks to make sure they are picking up, beginning to feed themselves before removing them, and then observe them closely especially for first few days. All good, interesting stuff and (mostly đ ) fun all the way đ Thanks again.
hi ,this is my first season breeding fife canaries, i have bred 5 young so far ,the oldest are getting ready to leave the nest, when should i ring them. Never having done this before, i am scared i hut them any advice gratefully received masny thanks Mike
Hi Mike, you donât need to ring them if you donât want too. If you do choose to, be confident, youâll be using split rings so get an adapter or some ring pliers and press them closed ensuring thereâs no trapped skin . Happy to give you a call and chat through if that helps
Thank you for the info Matt
MINE EATS GREEN PEPPERS AND YELLOW CORN AND CUCUMBERS AS WELL
Where do I get rings and tool? I am in U S
Kathy Gates eBay
How old are the babies when you wean them ?
It depends, they must be seen feeding themselves any age from 21-30 days
I allways ring my canary youngsters at the six day with an closed ring!
I do the same with my redpolls. But for now at least split aluminium work a treat
Well,and did You count the crippled feet You produced?
How old are the canaries at weaning
Any age from 21 days, important to ensure they are feeding themselves before you move them
IMPORTANT WARNING FOR PET BIRD OWNERS: The food that we normally give to the canaries (and other companion birds) consisting of a "complete, balanced and top-quality seeds mixture" bought in pet shops or supermarkets, makes the owners trust that their pet is well fed, but it is not like that: indeed the health of the pets is at imminent and serious risk.
The owners of canaries, parrots, cockatoos, parakeets, cockatiels, etc., WE MUST PAY ATTENTION TO DOMESTIC BIRD BREEDERS AND VETS and keep in mind that although we feed them with such a typical seeds mixture, our birds are very likely in danger of suffering an unexpected, painful and practically inevitable PREMATURE DEATH BY FATTY LIVER HEPATITIS. Canaries, for example, will surely die at 4 - 6 years of age of the more than 14 that they can live.
It is discouraging that in a time like nowadays, in which food is studied in detail for other pets such as dogs and cats, pet birds are condemned to die painfully and prematurely in so many cases. You have to warn people so they can avoid it!
This deadly disease is very common in pet birds but owners usually donât know or detect it in time. And we can not imagine that THE CAUSE IS IN THE FOOD ITSELF that we provide to our birds, in which such a typical mixture contains low-fat seeds such as canary seed together with other VERY fatty seeds such as niger, hemp or nabine and, in addition, the birds usually prefer to eat the fatty seeds, so that their REAL DIET is unbalanced by excessive fat, gradually causes the fatty infiltration of the liver and in a few years causes fatty liver hepatitis and PREMATURE DEATH to companion birds in general.
It is a cruel disease that progresses silently and, when its unexpected symptoms suddenly begin, they are imprecise, easily confused with other ailments, so the owners usually postpone the visit to the vet at a time already critical for the life of the bird (besides that not all vets are trained to recognize this elusive and misleading disease, even to administer lipotropic and regenerative liver protectors in curative doses, just in case it is that and not a supposed blow). It's a process of slow and asymptomatic progression, but when their visible symptoms unexpectedly begin (acute phase) the disease accelerates.
SYMPTOMS OF THE ACUTE PHASE OF FATTY LIVER DISEASE: First, emotional decay or progressive lack of interest, hard belly (in many specimens, with a dark spot with a half-moon shape on the belly, to see it you have to wet your fingers to remove the down), falls from the sticks of the cage that seem for "errors of calculation" and then lameness more or less accentuated (that make believe that they are by the previous falls, but both symptoms are due to that it hurts the liver), lack of flight and singing, the bird fluffs up his feathers or inclines more or less slowly; Then, within a few weeks and even in a few days, forced breathing with an open beak, remaining lying on the floor of the cage near the food, sudden spasms from time to time (which make people believe that the bird is "epileptic" or that has a "tumor" but it are twinges of pain of diseased liver), abundant greenish stools (caused by biliverdin which if it's not fasting, it means hepatic harm), then black and watery (from hepatic hemorrhages), then a strange somehow purple color of skin and beak, an exaggerated appetite and the final "improvement" of a few days (in the last phase, the already degenerated liver becomes deflated by what seems to be getting better), after which it suddenly dies among seizures (which may seem a heart infarct).
For the first symptoms the liver has already degenerated to 80% and only an urgent (and accurate) veterinary action can save your bird and revert the liver situation. If you simply feed your bird with the loose seeds mixture (even if you give it fresh fruits and vegetables and let it exercise, for example by letting it out of the cage at home), right now your pet's liver is degenerating, and neither you nor your bird know. Also the breeding paste and its pigments and sunflower seeds can attack the liver if they are taken too much or for too long. Without liver protectors, it is almost certain that your bird will prematurely die and in many cases you will not be able to determine its real cause.
Hepatic lipidosis it's not only deadly by itself when the visible symptoms begin (sometimes even it does not warn at all until few moments before the death). Even before the acute phase it predisposes the bird to suffer infections, as it weakens the immune system. Furthermore, obese pet birds have an increased risk of many other diseases, including arthritis, heart disease and cancer. Obesity in birds it's not so apparent but it's more dangerous than in other animals like mammals.
For these reasons, in addition to administering to the birds lipotropic and detoxifying / regenerating hepatic protectors preventatively and routinely, breeders usually make their own mixtures with low fat seeds.
PREVENTION AND/OR TREATMENT: The time to act is NOW that your pet does not have yet the visible symptoms. It is necessary to ACTIVELY PREVENT THE HEPATIC DEGENERATION. Fortunately it is easy to do it: You have to substitute the mixture of loose seeds for some pellets compound feed of seeds and fruits / vegetables (preferably those that already include liver protectors), because this prevents the bird from eating mostly what it likes the most and, whatever the diet, it is ESSENTIAL to add every day to the drinking water or to the food a LIPOTROPIC LIVER PROTECTOR that includes the famous carnitine (which is also indicated for humans) and / or choline, betaine, methionine, threonine, lysine (and it is very convenient to supplement with a DETOXIFYING and REGENERATING LIVER PROTECTOR with thistle milk, boldo, artichoke extract). The liver protectors are amino acids, vitamins (of which they have a protective effect on the liver, such as vitamin C), fatty acids and essential oils that remove the fat from the liver, clean it, protect it and favor its recovery. They are cheap food supplements and it is essential to add them to your pet birds diet to conserve their liver. It is something that professionals as breeders and vets know, but we the owners usually don't know.
Even, it are increasingly appearing in the market compound feed for pet birds that donât include fatty seeds and that already include several liver protectors. But the vast majority of owners still confidently feed their birds with the typical mixture of loose seeds with little fat and other very fatty seeds... And their birds continue dying of hepatitis due to fatty liver in a large number of cases (probably, in most cases). Now we know that, as fatty liver disease develops from the daily food itself, itâs most likely THE FIRST CAUSE OF DEATH OF PET BIRDS, and more likely as the bird ages.
Some web pages that I have found about it (in Spanish). For example, this page echoes the wrong food situation in which these animals are too often: www.timbrado.com/malnutricion.shtml
And on this other page: www.veterinaria.org/revistas/redvet/n111110B/111004B.pdf itâs described that the clinical manifestations of hepatic diseases in ornamental birds are much more frequent than people could imagine and that in many cases they are not appreciated, progress in a silent way and when they are evident, veterinary action may (usually) arrive late.
To remark that, in general, practically any avian symptomatology should be considered as if it were a pathology that could be serious, and not allow the disease to develop because then it will probably be too late. To do this, we must thoroughly investigate the symptoms, take preventive measures that do not harm (such as giving liver and intestinal protectors according to the leaflet) ask for advice from veterinarians, breeders, etc. and administer the most appropriate treatment RAPIDLY, but without rushing in the treatment or with the doses in such small animals. If the days go by and the bird does not improve, it is necessary to continue investigating and, if necessary, change the medication in an informed and contrasted manner. Doing nothing or stopping research usually ends up with the bird dead, but acting without being sure of what is done and in what dose, it likely ends the same way. Finally, it is necessary to obtain and confirm the sufficient veterinary experience and have the serenity to determine in each case whether it is convenient to hasten to do and / or administer what medicine and in what dose, or if it is better not to do and let the situation evolve without medicating for the time being, or according to the medication that has already been administered.
And that a limp in a bird is not always an injury caused by a blow, but the symptom of a disease of some organ (usually the liver or an intestinal disease) that needs to be discovered and treated as soon as possible. When in doubt, change diet to one with the lowest possible fats (only birdseed, or birdseed with other low-fat seeds such as millet, chia, fresh fruits and vegetables) and administer lipotropic and regenerating liver protectors in curative doses immediately ... although nothing could foreshadow a fatal outcome. Acidcare also has protective properties of the intestinal mucosa and stimulants of the immune system. In doses according to the leaflet do not cause damage and will surely save the life of your bird (if it is not too late).
Hopefully these comments will be useful to save your pet birds from an absurd death and to keep them with a basic wellness.
Can you sell me red canaries?
why does my female cinnamon Canary look like she's constantly sneezing
Could be mite
GOD! This is horrible!
First those cages are way too small for one bird and I wonder how could u keep 3-4 birds in it!!!
Second newspaper is toxic and got dry ink u should never leave newspaper in your birds cage !
Third Those cages are the dirtiest cages I ever seen and they such a mess and I bet there is so many bad bacteria in there food.
Those birds look so sick and unhappy
U should never ever leave any vegetable overnight cus early in the morning whe. The birds wake up they start eating it and the left over vegetables which it carry lots of bad bacteria get in to their stomach and could kill them and make them super sick.
The light is not enough for those birds and also they need fresh air all the time !