2008-2012 Ford Escape Expensive Receiver Drier Failures
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- You can get the Spectra Premium version Here-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K...
You can buy the 2008 Ford Unit Here-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001...
You can buy the 2009-2012 Ford Unit Here-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008...
In this video I go over how to replace the receiver dryer and how it fails.
Here is the latest part number-
8L8Z-19C836-C Receiver Drier (Model Year 2008)
BL8Z-19C836-B Receiver Drier (Model Years 2009-2012)
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Just wanted to thank you for all the informative videos on the Escape. I bought a nice 2011 XLT a couple of years ago and so far I’ve used the steering sensor repair, axle bushing seal repair, transmission fluid and PTU fluid change videos.
Yesterday I finally worked up the courage to do the preventative AC dryer receiver. Had the unit recovered, bought a vacuum pump and gauges and the parts and oil from your links.
I’ve always been a little scared to touch an ac system but with your video and a couple of others on vacuum/recharge everything went like clockwork and my AC is still ice cold like I never even touched it.
Thanks again!
I watched your video and I don't even have a Ford Escape. You did an excellent informative job. Really comprehensive.
Thank you for this information! My Pastor was given a 2008 Escape Hybrid last year and his A.C. Is currently on the blink while vacationing in, of ALL places, Texas! He was here at my house last Friday for an oil change and tire rotation AND to see if I could evaluate this AC. The pressure was where it needed to be, but when I put my thermometer in the center dash outlet, the temp bottomed out at 60° and would go no lower. I told him it would probably be a good idea to take his wife's 2010 Nissan Rogue to TX, but he wanted to take the Hybrid for the gas savings and the fact that it has a little more room. He and his family NOT fairing well in the Southern heat. Thank you for this very informative video!
I have 2 fords and you made me save a lots of money my friend, God bless your future....what a professional.....!!!!
Excellent video! Thanks! A/C in my 2012 Escape went out so changed out the dryer myself with the compressor and recharged the system with help from your other videos! You made a difference today!
when i bought my 2011 the AC was ice cold and about a week later went out... do you think i should replace this part?? or fill it with the leak coolant to see if there is a radiator leak?
@@jessiperry60 I'd start with fixes most easy/cheap and only move to more complicated/expensive as needed. Renting a vacuum pump and manifold gauges from AutoZone and recharge (maybe with some dye to help see if any leaks). In my case, I could see that the compressor went bad. Good luck!
@@bwholladay when you looked at your compressor, what did you see that told you it was bad?
My 2008's compressor is leaking lots of green fluid. Shined a UV light on it, and it's bright neon green
Thank you Thank you! You have saved me hours of frustration and wasted dollars. Getting ready to change a/c compressor and receiver dryer not because of failure. Just good old preventive maintenance. Just did water pump pulleys tensioner serpentine belt and thermostat/ housing unit. Not failure PM. I was able to bleed air from cooling system with the help of another one of your videos. You are appreciated!!!
You need a TV show.Perfect.
Thanks for the info.....Cant say we had any of those issues but always good to know..
Maybe ford should have the bulletin on the town car seen too many of those with that issue..
Another great video, THANKS.
Thanks for the video. It really helped me out with my '09.
Once this failure happens, what are the parts/steps need to be replaced/done other than the receiver dryer? Please respond
Thanks
Love this.Thank you.
Everytime I turn around there's something wrong with my 2009 Ford Escape V6 2wd. Any ideas for why it would start running hot and then go back down to the normal temperature with the air on? It does this a lot. The fans are working and the thermostat was just changed. BTW your videos have helped me out a lot! Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Is there an orafice tube filter in your vehicle? If so….can you tell me where it’s located? Thanks in advance.
have 2010 the dealer charged the ac 4 weeks later it's blow cool not cold. can this be the start of a bad dryer
Hi, First off great videos! helped me out a lot . I have replaced the resistor card 1.5 years ago. My Question is this the A/c works great and gets Really cold however the fans run high when the A/c is on and stays high if you turn a/c off however if you start the car with the a/c off the fans run at full speed until you put the a/c on again. does this sound like the pressure switch or desiccant blocking the system
thanks
you are a superhero..thanks!
What would you suggest if mine on my 2012 already failed? Complete system replacement?
Also speed #1 on the CC does not work, any suggestions? Is the the resister card thing you were talking about?
hi I love your videos I also have a escape 2009 and wondering if you have a video on ford escape 2009 ac how to clean car's evaporator/cooling coil
I'm having same problem with my 2012 Escape. Any idea what the outside temp has to do with the desiccant blockage? Why are things fine below 80 degrees and suddenly a problem above? Thanks for the helpful video!
Does this problem affect the hybrid as well? My 2010 FEH has an electric ac pump and it does run and cycle but I hear hissing in cabin. It cycles from 30 to 65 psi
Yep. This is my problem. Another temporary fix is having someone back into the front end super hard while it's parked because they don't know how to parallel park and then take off. This fixed the problem only for a few months.
Fantastic video. ive learn a lot .
Yup my resister card went and I think the dryer destroyed my condenser. It appears to be leaking when I put in UV dye. PAG oil should be light or medium?
Great info and show!...My question is just changing the D/A,and evacuating the system,how much PAG 46 oil should be added after vacuum,,,calls for 5 oz.you said 2oz...Even after the evac would there still be leftover oil in the system?Only want to change this part.One more please.What about double end cap oil?...Is that the recommended one?Thank you and love you all! Keep the info going!Sorry I am old now...
This happened to me about a year or two ago. I'm finally just going to replace the whole system myself to avoid contaminating new parts. The two things I'm still uncertain on since I have almost no experience with A/C is:
1- How much PAG oil I should put where? 5oz in all, but how much of that in the new compressor, how much in the new condenser, how much in the new accumulator/drier and should I put some anywhere else?
2- If I'm using an after market compressor should I still use the recommended Motorcraft PAG oil, or does which PAG oil I use depend on the new compressor?
Great job on the videos. I just wish I'd seen this before my A/C blew up.
I have a 2012 that only gets cold for a few minutes then goes hot. Will I have to flush out the lines to prevent those pieces from the dryer getting up in the system or do you think they already got there? it only has 26,000 miles on it but it's out of warranty. I've done plenty of AC work before just never heard of this.
This kid knows his stuff I wish they had him at my Ford Dealer
where would I go to get the AC evacuated if I was to do this? do you need to vacuum the system for a while after you replace the part?
how long would u estimate it takes to replace the receiver dier? hour? less than an hour?
I have a 2010 Ford Escape with the 3.0, 90000 miles. no issues to date regarding AC operation. Do you think it would be worthwhile replacing the drier at this point?
If my A/C hasn't been working for close to two years, do you think it's spread from the Receiver Drier and now affects the entire A/C system? If so, what would this cost me?
Anybody know what the part number is for the compressor seal on a 2009 hybrid escape, I don't want to buy a reman.
I see this video is 9 years old. I've owned a 2009 and 2010 Escape, and both had the same A/C problem - the condenser formed a hairline crack between the tubing mounting block and the condenser body. That resulted in super slow leaks that were difficult to find until enough oil and dye presented itself. Even a leak detector didn't pick it up.
Sir do you know the name of the li ttle valve on the reciever drier that the pressure switch connects to?
Would this issue cause the AC to intermittently stop and work again as normal. I got my friends 2010 escape 4cyl. I evacuated the system at Ford and refilled it. Then it started working. Two week later its not working again. Pressures are good. No leaks any where.
I need help,I have a 2012 escape xlt 2.5l . The a/c lines gets frozen, radiator fun runs high .I have Heat and cold air. Only w when the system is on the a/c lines(low pressure) get frozen over. What could be the problem? Thank you.
All of these I have done, I will just replace the receiver driver and the expansion block and clean out the high pressure hose to the expansion block really good and they run fine. If some got through it will just come around get chewed up by the compressor and end up on the other side of the new filter. I have see these come in with 450PSI on the high side plugged tight and won't equalize. Normally you see compressor oil under the pressure relief valve too. It that the case I add a little extra oil. I am getting ready to do a 2011 tonight
thank you
How do you tell if your drier receiver is bad? Just bought a 2010 escape and the AC isnt working. Wondering if theres a way to tell if this is the issue? 126k miles. Thanks for the help
So I have a 09 escape hybrid. The Freon is full. No leaks. Levels on the gauges are right where they need to be but it won’t cool below 60ish out of the vents even on max. While at idle it usually won’t go below 70ish. I’ve tried keeping rpm’s up around 2k no joy. Now get out on the highway even at 90 outside and it’s like a meat locker. The e fans are working. So has my bag broke and the blockage is causing this issue? The ford dealer who vacuum tested and refilled it does not have an answer.
Being a heating and cooling guy I actually understand what He is talking about w this one lol. That’s funny
Dear FTM,
My 2010 Mariner compressor clutch kicks in for 10 to 45 seconds then stops. I jumpered the clutch circuit and metered the solenoid side of the relay. When I start the system the voltage on the solenoid side of the relay runs 14 V and after 10 to 45 seconds drops down to 9 volts. When I jumpered the compressor clutch the system pushed out super cold air for a short while, then I started getting smoke from down by the compressor. Immediately pulled the jumper.
Went to the Zone. "Borrowed" pressure gauges. Zero pressure on the High side. 110 on the Low side. Should I assume the the desiccant bag has exploded and clogged the whole system?
yes
I would like to no the torque settings for this job
My AC/heat stopped working on the first two settings, replaced blower resistor and that fixed the problem. AC then was not working, had vehicle serviced and they changed out the blower resistor again and altered the cowl for better draining. AC still blowing only warm air. The service center showed me the TSB and did not replace the receiver drier. It is going back and I will request the receiver drier be replaced. Do you think this will solve the issue? How would I know if the dessicant particles have already been released into the AC system?
Kurt Fasulo A pressure reading will tell you but opening the system and inspecting the txv is the best way.
Thanks, I had the receiver drier replaced and the system flushed per the TSB. If I have any further issues I will ask that they inspect the TXV.
Hi your video are verry good and educative but i still need help My ford escape 2015 A/c doesn't blow cold air at all the compressor is working pressures are good but still no cold air. To be honest i don't know what to do a this point. I took i at ford auto shop they charged me 500$ of diagnosis to tell me that the a/c wasn't working and it would cost me a 1000$ to get it repaired.
I replaced my blower resistor to restore my fan operation. Do you think this is definitely caused by a leak and the new one destined to blow soon? If so, what would you estimate the cost for a shop to do it? I found a TSB procedure online that said its only a 1.5 hour job, does that sound right?
Tighe Crovetti I think they are caused by condensation in the hvac box in general any system that has these card type resistor boards fail this way eventually.
@@FordTechMakuloco I've taken my 2011 to get my 2011 Ford Escape service because last month when I bought it, it was working. Worked for a week then hot air. Took it back they said no leaks yet filled it with freon again work for a another week now today hot. So frustrated. I guess that is why they sold this car. My $$ is going down the drain and it is still not fixed.
does this fix the heat and the ac? my air works fine jus no ac and heat
would you go with a Ford replacement or like a spectra? I have a 2010,air works just want to change it to prevent problems down the line. Thank you for all the how to's and info.
I have never tried spectra driers but If I wasn't going to go with Fords revised unit that I link to in the video description then I would use a spectra yes.
FordTechMakuloco Escape Hybrid different ac recharge procedure then regular gas engine ?
Hi Makuloco, thanks for your information! You have a bunch of very great videos on Ford Escape. Can I ask if you get any update on this dryer issue? Any warranty update? Do you have information on which models of the part is prone to this issue? Thanks again!
CCL13CN The old style drier is in the 2008-2012 escapes they took down the original with the exact build dates. There still has not been no new info on warranty etc for these.
FordTechMakuloco Thank you!
My 2011 v6 escape ac died out of nowhere....the e fan started running nonstop.....I think the system is blocked up . Should i replace everything? comp/lines/cond/drier?....Can i
I get away w leaving the evaporator maybe flushing it?
I have a 2009 Ford Escape Hybrid with a very weak compressor. Dealer said they no longer make the compressor. Do you recommend any of the aftermarket suppliers
4 seasons
My son's 2011 Escape lost the AC due to this issue two years ago. With 150k miles, I don't want to spend the quoted $2,200 for complete system replacement. What do you think the odds are we can pull system components and flush the desiccant out to clear the system? I feel bad he has no AC in summers. We need to fix or replace the vehicle this year. It still runs well overall for the age and miles.
Not sure if this is the same problem I am having but I have 2 escapes come into my shop today. One was a 2009 and the other was a 2010. Both ac was blowing warm. Compressor not coming on. And when I hooked up the AC machine pressure is 400psi on the high side and 120psi on low side. If I evac and recharge it pressures return to normal and ac works fine for a week or to then same thing happens. When I do evac and recharge it the system pulls out a normal charge level. Not too high or too low.
check the blower motor resistor in the cabin.. i bet both of these escapes only have the blower only working on high, what happens is when the resistor fails and people leave the ac on but the motor isn't blowing over the evap the low side will pull into a vacuum and the compressor will not cycle off, somehow air gets pulled into the system and you eventually get the high pressure switch shutting off the ac, and once equal you check the static pressure and its 250 to 400+ even though it was not overcharged with r134, you can even replicate this on a perfect running escape ac of this vintage by unplugging the blower motor or resistor , leaving the ac on, and driving for a few days, then checking the pressures after. The fix is replace the receiver drier , blower motor resister and recharge accordingly. This may even be the cause of these driers going bad in the first place from over saturation of air/water, this is by far the most weird ac issue of any car i have ever seen. Hope this helps
I had this problem with my 2009 ford escape just left it as I live in WI. And now after close to ten years I guess the receiver dryer stuff degraded and worked their way through the system and now the air conditioner works again!
Hi I have a 2012 escape the system has freon and it has a lot of pressure I replaced the expansion valve last week and vacuum the system and put new freon on it but it only last me for a week you think if I replace the
Drier will fix it?
TheTotto23 Driers are common to come apart yes. Inspect the txv first when you open the system.
Hello como destupo el drenaje del Aireacondicionado para un Ford escape 2008
Tks
So...what happens when you replace this and expansion valve (no orifice tube) and there is still high side high pressure, and the AC blows hot?
+Eric Bauer Well first question is did it come apart? If so he entire ac system must be replaced.
Unfortunately, I didn't do the replacement the shop did. I don't know if it did or not. When you are talking about the entire ac system, what does that entail?
And let me thank you, again for the video, it really helped identify the issue.
The resistor card in my blower went out a couple years ago. I should probably look into getting this thing changed
The Blower fan speed resistor does not control the radiator fan. The radiator fan running on high speed is caused by plugged AC lines that results in the radiator fan getting a signal to run on high speed. Very annoying but since I am still getting cool air I put up with radiator fan defaulting to high speed. If I turn off the AC then the radiator fan speed returns to normal. Flushing the AC system including a new dryer and valve is expensive and not worth it on a 9 year old vehicle that is still generating cold air.
I just purchased a 2008 for a winter/occasional driver vehicle. How might I tell if the original receiver/drier is still installed? Is there a part number on the outside that I can check? Good work and thanks for sharing!
Curt Swartzwelder There is an engineering number on the outside I can cross reference it to see if it is original. All I need is the number from it and your vin.
What type and how much pag oil do I need to fill the new drier with? I'm going to be doing this job on a 2010 v6.
This is the correct stuff here I add about 2oz to the inlet side- amzn.to/2ajCpY3
+FordTechMakuloco thank you!
if changing the ac condenser do I still add some to both dryer & condenser? ( just watched your other video on changing the condenser & you said to add pag to it as well.
One ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
nailed it right there!
Hi. just had the filter dryer replaced on my 2010 escape. Air works great but rad fans still run on high when car is running. They start running on high as soon as we start the vehicle. Any ideas?
Mark Mcgee Yeah pressures are too high why did they change it?
+FordTechMakuloco The air wasn't working. Shop replaced filter dryer and recharged system. Everything was fine til rad fan started running all the time again. Air still works though.
Other than the annoyance, is there anything to be concerned about with radiator running high speed when AC is on? I am still getting cold air so not that concerned about radiator running high speed unless there is a reason to do so.
Check the cooling fan resistor. That is what drops the amperage for the lower fan speed.
Would've been great if you say what the symptoms are when that's broken
I have a 2012 3.0 Escape. My Rad fans run on high constantly. I'm just using the heat at this time. Could I purge some gas from the high side to stop the fans running away until I replace the Receiver/ dryer. Your Thoughts !!!
The fans run at high when a/c is on only?
FordTechMakuloco yes, mine too. If i turn off the a/c they still on high. If i turn off the vehicle and start it up again they will go normal? Any thoughts please, i have changed the dryer after the failure?
The First one I ever had with that failure was a 1988 Taurus, It was called "Black Death". I just had a freestar with the same issue last week.
Michael Witmer Black death is for sure, it is real nasty when it happens.
Just curious I have a 2010 ford escape xlt with 36.000km, should I change the receiver dryer for precautional reasons? If yes should I use BL8Z-19C836-B Receiver Drier or is there anything better now a days? Thanks for your time!!
That is the latest and greatest as of today yes.
FordTechMakuloco Thank you once again!!
What are the signs that this is actually the a/c issue? My escape's a/c gradually has stopped working of the course of several days even after two freon recharges. The other day there was a hissing noise from under the passenger dash while the a/c was running.
If it keeps losing the charge then the issue is separate. The only time I have heard noise from the hvac case a/c related is when the charge is low.
Our 2009 Escape's A/C stopped working, with a scan tool we could see that the high pressure switch was tripped, causing the cooling fans to run on high speed all the time, The fixed orifice was plugged, it was all replaced under warranty. But this year the A/C quit again, I checked the system and found it void of refrigerant, after pressure testing I found the condenser is leaking...so I'll be replacing the dryer again..
I am on second replacement of high pressure valve and shortly thereafter the rad fan is running at high speed. Wasted $250 as it seems system should have been reverse flushed to eliminate desiccant that plugs pressure valve.
Am I correct in saying a 2009 Escape does not have an orifice tube?
That is correct. It has a TXV, mounted on the firewall. It is the block that the hoses connect to.
2012 escape V6 and rad fans run on high all the time is this the issue?
Mine does the same
I’m looking at a 2008 Ford Escape that needs a new resonator. Does anyone know how much this will cost. She says it needs rear tires ... lol and the resonator. Now I watched a video on replacing it so I’ll bring it to someone for the exhaust I wanna make it sound meaner so I might aswell do it ?Is this a good vehicle to buy then?
Your videos are excellent! I have used them on my 2008 Expedition (TPMS and Window Regulator) and 2004 Escape. The Escape has the engine cooling fans running at high speed virtually all of the time. A/C blows cold and heat works normally; doesn't take too long to warm up. I have read several forums mentioning a similar issue with a pressure switch that could be defaulting the fans to high speed. "There is a pressure sending unit that is used by the AC system that runs the rad fans to maintain proper head pressure (mounted on the top of the accumulator). " Your thoughts and guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
+Immadashell If the cooling fans run high at all times then it is likely you have a high side restriction over a failure of the dual function pressure switch. If the fans only run on high with a/c on check the a/c system pressure with it running. It should be around 25-35 low side and 220-285 high side ideally unless you are in the desert then it may be a bit higher.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the information. We live in suburban Chicago, sometimes I wish that I lived in the desert
+Immadashell Well then bring it by the shop I can take a look at it for ya, my shop is in Plano.
+Immadashell You can pm me on facebook or visit us at www.bsgautomotive.com
I believe I might have this issue. After doing pressure tests, I'm finding the system builds a lot of high side pressure, while the low side drops too low. Causing low and high pressure cut-outs. Based on your other video and some other info I found - I'm pretty positive there's an obstruction. I'm really fine with replacing most of the system, if needed - but the evap.. well, we all know that's a major pain. Question - if I did have a drier failure, would I be reasonably safe just using a vacuum along with some A/C flush in a can to clean the Evap? I've read the condenser is almost impossible to clean - I'll replace that either way, along with the drier and compressor. And while I don't want to risk the work by 'cutting corners' - at the same time, I am not looking forward to taking the dash apart.. Thanks for your awesome videos BTW.
My wife's 2012 escape v6 currently has the ac blowing hot AND the engine fan running at full speed all the time. Is it worth replacing this item still? I at first assumed the temp sensor on the dryer was bad and causing the engine fan to run on high as a default setting. Now, I see this, am I too late? :(
Kevin Cumberton Sure sounds like it, only way is to check is with a set of gauges or suck the system down and remove it to check.
:( figured so.
I wish I had saw this 2.5 years ago. I have been driving around without AC since fall 2014. Ford was quoting me 3000.00 to fix (1600 parts and 1100 labour), and this was the issue (desiccant bag blowing up). The evacuated the lines for me. Do i only need to replace this part and recharge the system to get it working again, or are there other parts that will need replacement as well?
How do I know if my is blocked
You replaced yours with an updated part?
Yes the part has changed multiple times over the past few years and they have settled on this part for awhile now which is why I waited.
@@FordTechMakuloco were there any obvious signs of leakage on the outside of the unit, or on the surfaces near it?
I’ve been taking my escape to the dealers mechanic for the past few years, they’ve been good and all repairs no matter the cost seemed at a reasonable price. But now I’m taking it cause the AC isn’t cooling. They tell me they will have to replace the compressor, and it will cost me $1100. I’m just wondering is that the typical amount for a repair of this scale? Or are they trying to pull one over on me?
Is there a orifice tube on a 2010 ford escape?
no
When are you doing a video taking off the evaporater?
Never they don't fail.
@@FordTechMakuloco your telling me that the evaporater doesnt start to leak and gets rotten?
Nope never.
Any common issues with the 3.0 Duratec in an 07 Escape? It's been given to me and runs great, 140,000km (86,000mi) on it and was dealer maintained since new. I did plugs, belts, synthetic oil change/oem filter, trans fluid change etc when I was given the truck.
I've heard of timing chain issues but I have never seen any on the Escapes I get at work (independent shop)...just frequent ignition coil failures.
Also, I seem to recall hearing that doing any sort of timing chain work on these engines is wizardry since nothing has any marks on it.
Sorry for the questions unrelated to the video!
Kevin Malone Those engines were real solid by the 2005 model year except for the usual oil pan and front cover oil leaks. Timing is nothing special on these compared to the 4.0l SOHC engines.
Did this issue affect 2009 Hybrids as well?
No
Thank you for the fast response. You truly are a great resource for Escape owners.
My 2010 Escape just went though this in April. It tripped the blow off valve while running in the driveway. They ended up not replacing the receiver dryer. They pumped the system down 3 times and whatever was clogging it came out. It destroyed the dealers machine in the process.
Wow sucks for them, why would they not replace the dryer if it failed?
@ FordTechMakuloco. It was an issue with the warranty company. Because the system was working and has been working since they sucked it down 3 times. They would not cover the replacement. I guess what they don't realize is that If it fails again there is still another 3.5 years on the warranty I purchased.
cjones4512 Problem is the drier part of it that failed is very important to remove moisture.
I am going in Tuesday for the 14S05 Steering recall, I will bring up the issue with them again. I would imagine that excess moisture in the system will eventually cause a very expensive system failure in the future.
yes when moisture combines with the pag oil it turns to acid and eats the system from the inside out.
This video is just over 5 years old. Did Ford ever recall the receiver driers?
No
How do you know if it is bad
You will know the bag burst by poor a/c cooling or intermittently poor a/c cooling and when you open the system up you will see the desiccant material all over inside of there its the same little silica granule packet you see in new clothing or shoes.
I own a 2010 Escape, should I just go ahead and have it replaced?
I would just as I did on mine in the video, saves allot of headaches
Yeah I watched your video & there is no just pull the bumper off. This is a bastard trying to get it off.
Nice! BUT DO NOT use PAG oil if you have a hybird!
2010 and newer use an electric a/c compressor yes.
Just had my A/C go out on 2012 Escape 85k miles. Also, blower not working on #1. All symptoms point to this exact problem (Receiver Drier failure). From the sounds of it Ford knows that this should be a recall. But I guess I don't expect much more from a company that charged me 2k to fix a transmission issue that is still broke. I took it back to them 3 times and they refuse to acknowledge there is still a problem.
So Ford decided it was OK to use dessicant in a paper bag in a high pressure system??? Bwahahahahahaha!!
They all use this system these are just prone to breakage.
So glad I got rid of this vehicle. A/C, rear window wiper motor, rear door latch, and fugitive power drain issues, all happening within one summer. The vehicle had just over 62,000 miles on it. Never to buy a Ford product again.
Yes, rear gate latch on mine too and now the idler pulley just spontaneously BROKE OFF the motor by itself at 50,000 miles. The new part has a improved mounting but first I have to pull crank pulley, new timing cover, retime engine crank to valves all at at 50 k. Just because they under designed a pulley mount. Pulley turns fine by the way. Fords are barely. 50,000 mile vehicles. A Toyota will make it to 200 k before you see half the issues.
Oh, throttle body, steering problem, ignition switch linkage. All that and now I need to get this ac part changed.
It was actually designed by Mazda lol. But I agree they're a mixed bag of surprises! I have to pull the freaking fuel rail and intake manifold to change the 30 dollar pcv valve even! I miss my caravan lol
Seems like the worst year for ford is 2008. So many vehicles in this year with multiples problems. And the king of junk is the super duty line with their dreadful 6.4L powerjoke.
I like American cars but after got raped hard by ford I think I'll go for a Japanese or Korean car next time.
Nelson
What we were seeing is 2011 was the worst year problems left and right every model that year.
FordTechMakuloco
Thanks,
Good to know. I'll keep that in mind.
Nelson
I have a 2010 Ford Escape with the 3.0, 90000 miles. no issues to date regarding AC operation. Do you think it would be worthwhile replacing the drier at this point?
I have a 2010 Ford Escape with the 3.0, 90000 miles. no issues to date regarding AC operation. Do you think it would be worthwhile replacing the drier at this point?
What was the problem