I saw another video (this old house) where the installer used a large hole saw to install the PLASTIC venting from his unit. Trouble was that it was very low on the outside of the building,and since it was a house in Milwaukee,Wisconsin; the first big snowfall would clog the vent...your venting configuration made a lot more sense.
I did customer service in the field for 35 years for a water utility. It was my job to respond to stuff like this. 75% of the time issues were in customers plumbing like this break down of a sacrificial diode in the water heater. Tankless need to be cleaned because the coils filled with constant hot water will build mineral deposits and get in customers plumbing. Its wise to add a filter and a clean out for periodic removal of mineral deposits.
Absolutely, I have a filter system in my house and its amazing the debit sediments, in the filter I've seen from the city that supplies my house water..
Great video! In my case I don’t have gas in my neighbourhood so I purchased an electric tankless water heater, Stiebel Eltron brand which I found at a liquidation price. I sized it up for my home needs and got the appropriate model. Purchase the appropriate breakers in my case I needed two 50 amp breakers and a role of 6/2 gauge wire. Did the math to make sure I had the right service entrance panel and amperage, installed it in about 3 hours. I live in a cold climate where sometimes the temperature goes to -20 or -30 Celsius ( about -15 Fahrenheit) I never run out of hot water, and the temperature is always constant. Cost me about $900.00
@@DavidA-411 Hi David, I just looked at my annual electric bill for the past two years and between August 2017 and 2018 total was $2609.29 ( $217.44 monthly average or $7.15/day) and between August 2018 and 2019 total was $1932.26 ($161.02 monthly average or $5.22/day) so did it go down because I'm now using a tankless or is this because of weather conditions, I don't know but I'll see this coming year what my electric bill will be. My house is 1200 square feet and the amounts above are all in Canadian dollars.
@@charliem.7492 It's "ouch" but keep in mind it's also $0 for oil and $0 for gas. It really just depends on the relative costs of different types of fuel where you live.
Good day Ron I highly appreciate the man you are and all you do. I've been watching you for years. Thank you so much for your wonderful wonderful presentation.
I installed a gas tankless in my house twenty years ago. I have never had problems with it because I only plumbed the shower/tub and clothes washer to it. I figured turning it on and off just to get a little hot water at the sinks in kitchen and bathroom will cause it to breakdown sooner than later. Besides it isn’t instant like a typical hot water tank because the chamber has to heat up so it runs a tad bit before hot water comes out of it, then has to get to its destination. I use a six gallon electric water tank under the kitchen sink to provide hot water to it and the bathroom sink. My only regret is having one while married as I don’t think you will save money with unlimited hot shower water with a women in the house.
The water heater didn't need replaced. Remove the water heater to your yard, and using a long dowel rod (longer than the water heater is tall by at least a foot) the old plastic tube will break up easily (remember the defect its fragile from years of use). Remove the drain valve completely and connect a garden hose to the hot water output. Turn on the hose, and lean the unit some. Gently roll the unit back and forth. Look in the heater to see if its all out, if not repeat. install your new tube, and the drain valve (or a new one). Optionally replace the pressure relief valve while your there and any other common failure points, then reinstall. Works on gas or electric water heaters.
I was thinking the same thing that the tank did not look like it needed replacing. What I would have done is take out the dip tube, anode rod, and drain valve. Duct tape a piece of pipe to the shop vac hose, stick it in through the open ports, and vacuum up the debris. Use a bore/endoscope if you got one for visual confirmation. Install new dip tube, anode, and a proper brass ball valve for a drain and Bob's your uncle... He did a really nice job of installing the tankless unit though. I just think he really wanted one and the debris in the tank was a great excuse. Not that that's a bad thing...I might have taken the same opportunity given the option.
Tank-less water heaters require periodic de-scaling. This involves circulating a de-scaling solution through the heater. For most units, this means that you need a set of valves and T connectors to tap into the water lines. You can find kits for this that include specialized fitting made for this purpose. It also means that you need a circulating pump, a couple of hoses, and the chemical to make the solution. These components are also available in a kit. You also need to remember to perform this service once a year or so, and replenish the chemical. The consequence of not de-scaling the tank-less heater is cold showers, until you perform the de-scaling. Tank heaters should also be flushed once a year. The consequence of not flushing a tank heater is more frequent replacement of the heater. Another benefit of tank-less is that you don't need to keep a tank full of hot water in your house. Tank-less heaters only heat the water when the water is running. This can result in lower energy cost, depending on your usage pattern.
Mike Edwards : Another benefit of a tank-less water heater is that you also save water because you don’t need to wait for the hot water to come out from the faucet.
@@ajarivas72 Absolutely incorrect. A tankless water heater provides "endless" hot water, but it does not provide instant hot water. The delay in getting hot water at the tap is caused by the volume of water in the pipe between the tap and the water heater. The type of water heater does nothing to change this. The only way to get near-instant hot water at the tap is to install a recirculating loop and pump, which keeps the line charged with hot water.
@@jeffeverde1 Thanks for your reply and insight. Another way to get instant hot water at the tap or shower is to pre-heat the water in the pipe with an induction coil (steel pipes) or electric resistance
You can save money by buying 3 gallons of distilled white vinegar to circulate and de-scale the inside tubing of the water heater instead of the chemical de-scaler.
We used to encounter this a lot back in the 90's and early 2000's. We installed wye trainer (fine mesh screens) remove the plug on them and install a ball valve to flush the wye strainer. Charged about $290 for the job and replaced the diptube too. Solved all of the issues. No need to replace the water heater.
Retired to Mexico 4 years ago. Most hot water sources here is via tankless water heaters. Propane gas & electric (battery) ignition. Same with the stove and oven. Works great! Efficient and cheap. I love it! 👍
great choice ron. tankless just keeps getting better & better. paloma makes tankless for rheem. they even have a condensing tankless that has an energy efficiency factor of around 96%. nice heater- I have one in my house. an added bonus? the condensing version uses 3" sch.40 pvc pipe for venting.
@@b-rainwash410I have a BOSCH-JUNKERS Tankless water heater I haven't touch it in its first 10 years and it was working like a charm! Now it's it is 16 and still doing well with some inexpensive parts being replaced!
@@Gitarzan66 Using TV magic anything is possible - the cost of install will be $$$ higher & maintenance $. Lower cost of operation will pay you back over the years...
Glad to see the US is catching up with the UK at last. We have had combination boilers ('Tankless system') for 30 years or more. They are highly efficient and require just annual servicing and minimal maintenance. Welcome to the 20th century.
@@@Nietyp The outdoor fan unit of an air source heat pump usually takes up as much space as a washing machine. ... On the other hand, some modern boilers (or 'combi' boilers) take away the need for a hot water cylinder altogether, heating water straight from the water mains. Air source heat pumps run on electricity. the average value for greenhouse gasses emitted per kWh of electricity is 0.54702 kgCO2eq/kWh, whereas for gas this is 0.20435 kgCO2eq/kWh. If we assume that the alternative to a heat pump would be a new gas boiler at 90% efficiency (e.g. www.boilers.org) then in order for an air source heat pump to have a lower level of greenhouse gas emissions, it would need to have a COP of over 2.41 Whole life cost for heat pump over 15 years £17,940.40 Whole life cost for oil boiler over 15 years £14,784.00
@@@z14film31 Instead of being a keyboard warrior troll you need to do some research. A Combi boiler and a tankless system are virtually identical. Tankless units (also called “on demand” units or an instant hot water heater) heat water only when you turn on the faucet. A combination or 'combi' boiler is both a high efficiency water heater and a central heating boiler in a single compact unit. Combi boilers heat water directly from the mains when you turn on a tap, so you won't need a hot water storage cylinder or a cold water storage tank in the roof space. Welcome to the 20th century
6 years ago I bought my propane outdoor tankless and all hardware from home depot, little over 900$ investment. Installed myself. To date have saved more than 4000$ compared to when had tank in basement. If you plan and execute correctly you benefit.
There's pros and cons to everything. You need to know your needs are. And of course cost. Regular water heaters are pretty efficient now and you can put insulation blankets on them. Works well. Maintenance is key. 👍😉
George B most of the time where i live. A tank style water heater is either in the garage or house. Neither of those get cold enough for a new foam filled water heater to make it a good idea to install a blanket on a water heater
I have a tankless electric water heater and had to put a small tank heater in the line after the tankless. That way it acts as a buffer and I always have instant hot water and no change in water temperature. Both operate on 220V. The electric instant heater is 100 amps and will supply as much hot water as you can use. I also put a 2.5 gallon electric tank in line under the kitchen sink. That way we have instant hot water for the sink and dishwasher.
@@flybyairplane3528 I guess I did not explain my set up properly. There is 20 feet of 3/4 copper to my kitchen so too avoid a long wait for hot water in the kitchen I installed a 2.5 gal tank under the kitchen sink .The 20 gal tank after the tankless supplies us hot water during the day. It is on a timer and only works at night when our electricity rates are lower. It is over 30 cents per kilowatt for electricity here during the day. We have whats called (Time of Use) electricity rates here in Ontario. The small tank saves us several hundreds of dollars a year. Cheers
Retired Snowbird SEE I would have zero idea, whereby our are located, but your electric should be CHEAPER THAN MINE IN NJ, anyhow I now see your reasoning, Check this out, in CHATUGAY , QUIBECK, my wife’s aunt nought a little house there, she had oil heat, can you guess what the ELECTRIC COMPANY DID ? They removed her oil unit, then INSTALLED A NEW ELECTRIC FURNACE, as it WAS CHEAPER than oil, HYDRO QUEBEC!, She has now passed many years now. Cheers From NJUSA🇨🇦🇺🇸
Wonderful video, of course, I always been a fan of House Calls. I meet you at Orchard Hardware store many years ago. I will always remember the friendly conversation we had. THANKS
An HVAC tech suggested that I install a pre and post water filter for use with a tankless water heater to help deal with scale and mineral buildup inside the heat exchanger.
jburr36 YES, a great idea, but if you are wondering ,why the ‘post ‘unit, that is usually a filter, I would use a ‘Y’ STRAINER that can be cleaned, the reason for that is little pieces of minerals, without, when the homer starts seeing them,,THEN ITS TIME TO. DESCALE THE UNIT, Cheers From NJ🇺🇸
I have had a tankless water heater for 9 years. I rent it from my gas utility. It has never been descaled, they say it's not necessary unless there is a problem. Twice i had a spider build a nest inside not allowing it to work but it's a quick job by my utility to remove it at no charge to me. I can't say it has saved me any money as it takes a little longer to get hot water from the tap so i use a little more water but once it's there it will supply hot water forever if you want.
Thank you VM. I find ur vid VERY informative. I have the option to go old school hot water tank, or tankless. My old G.E. 2010 natural gas heater died last week. I use city water which, here, is a bit above avg grade FPSM. Imagine entering a house with the intent to buy it, built in 1957 and standing face to face with a spanking new, tankless, endless hot water heater! HOT! Ohhhh Yeaaahhh.
Looking at your copper pipes. We installed copper in our rebuild about 25 years ago. Did not know that acidic water will cause problems with copper pipes... Learned real fast when the toilet bowls turned bright green. It pays to make sure your water is neutral ph. We had to install a rather pricey filter system since the green meant the copper was quickly corroding and we'd have had leaking pipes in a few short years.
First time watching any of your videos. I gotta say, great video. Very detailed steps and even though I didn't need to watch the whole thing, I found it enjoyable to do so. Definitely look forward to new content.
Renai tankless 1200$ ,installation $2200, one year later 1600$ in repairs and still repairing for it because no matter what I put in front of the vent outside spiders (baby spiders) will make its way in there and block the valve and every 6 months it has to be cleaned.
Thanks for this video. I understand that I will probably have to upgrade my gas service to the heater to 3/4 inch. Not a big deal, I have a 1 inch gas service just outside the wall of where this will sit. Cut out some sheet rock and some simple plumbing. What I don't understand is why there is a new exhaust is installed. I already have a 4 inch double wall pipe already thru the roof.
Excellent presentation!!! Just one thought. On the vent pipe outside. Wouldn't it have been better to just come out the wall with a much shorter pipe and put a vent cap on it? The goose neck seems long and can be nuisance and easily bump into.
Nice video but let's go over the shortcomings not discussed in the video.#1 you should always contact your local gas utility of your intention of adding more gas load to the system. I'm sure you went from 40,000 to 50,000 BTUs and increased to around 200,000 BTUs ( Let the utility come out and make sure the equipment is sized for the added load. There usually is no cost for this).#2 let's size your current fuel run to make sure it can handle the added load from the point they tied in the csst back to the gas meter. This is called the longest run method and you will need total BTUs of the house and length of total piping.#3 considering your installer used yellow csst and not Counter-Strike csst you should have went over the whole bonding installation method all the way back to the main ground rod of your electric service panel ( this is mandatory for yellow csst per the national electric and fuel codes).#4 exposed csst not covered by the jacket should always be taped with an approved coatng at these points. My expertise comes from 35 years in the gas utility industry . I am currently retired and consult from time to time on gas installations such as this one, when incidents occur due to improper installations.
Not to mention a cheap sniffer is not an accurate leak check. They should have run a manometer test on the system. Another thing I noticed is that they installed the shut off valve after the sediment trap which is against code. Third paloma heaters are junk. Fourth why spend all that time on running water lines perfectly and then run csst strapped to the joists and wall. Hard pipe would have been a much cleaner installation.
@@richardhintersehr9014 you're my kind of technician. I can assure you there is a lot of contractors out there who don't even know how to perform a manometer test on fuel runs ( scary huh ?).
15 years of natural and propane gas installation and service have taught me how things can and should be done. I would've much rather seen him use a Rinnai or Noritz heater and an actual gas technician instead of a plumber to do the gas work. Just because a master plumbing license gives you the right to do has work doesn't mean you have the ability...
You have young enough kids that use a rubber ducky? With condensing units today, the instruction is much different on installation. The plumbers were very thorough in this install.
Great video sir, one point that you made which was right, but wanted to give another perspective on it is that yes plumbers bend the solder to get around the pipe, but if you notice we also usually bend a certain amount. That is because when you solder you should use the size of the pipe as how much solder you need to use (1/2 pipe, you should use half inch of solder) other than that great video
anyone wanting this, the only drawback is you should make a cleanout valve. You can use white vinegar in the cleanout valve to keep hard water deposits (scale) from building up. Areas that have very hard water, should be cleaned out about once every 3 months, and the norm is about once every 6 months.
They sell kits for adding the valves and it looks super clean ! If you don't flush it ,every six months or so , u lose the efficiency of the heater and could cause it to fail all together.
My Renai required a 3/4” gas connection; therefore I couldn’t use the 1/2” gas line from the old standard water heater. I added a water softener to the system which presumably will double the life of the tankless water heater. The larger gas line is needed to comply with the instant hot water heating requirement!
The sizing of the gas pipe depends on the BTU needs of the tankless heater and the length of the pipe from the home's gas meter. Most natural gas tankless heaters are 140,000 BTU to 199,000 BTU, whereas a typical 50 gallon tank-type water heater needs only 62,000 BTU. So yeah - to install a tankless heater, it is not uncommon that you'll need to have the gas company out to install a larger capacity gas meter, and then you need to run the correct sized pipe to the tankless heater -- one-inch pipe if your run is over 10 feet or so to one of the larter 199,000 BTU units.
So what is the cost-benefit analysis? New water tank, the energy efficiency of tankless vs. tank, versus install costs for the average homeowner having to pay a plumber for the entire job.? Great video, by the way. You have a better on-camera personality than half those people on HGTV.
There are a lot of variables, like how much hot water you use, how often you go away (i.e., not using any hot water) and what your water and gas (or electricity) costs. Generally, though, I've read that tankless units pay for themselves in 5 - 7 years, and also last longer, because they don't need the maintenance that a tank needs. That is, I think, if you install it yourself. If you it the way Ron does and have a plumber run the pipes, but do everything else yourself, your cost will take longer to recover. Having a plumber do it all will take even longer. My personal opinion is that tankless is definitely worth it. You don't have 50 gallons of water held at 120 degrees 24/7, which seems incredibly inefficient to me. When our tank goes, my wife and I plan on going tankless. What does kind of suck, though, is that if the power was out, you wouldn't have hot water. Luckily, that has happened twice in the 15 years we've been in our house, and both times it was only for a couple hours.
@@scottplumer3668 Thanks for the reply. I put in a timer and only run our water heater between 12-3 PM to save some money. Our water heater is only 4 years old and of good quality, so it holds the heat good. You bring up some good points to consider Scott - Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. Have a great week.
@@dogelife7901 True but natural gas is way more $$ efficient then electric and odds of it not working during a power outage is minimal. All you need is a small generator with 120v to power it vs one with a 240v outlet.
Great diy job sir. You really nailed home the reason why companies charge so much for this but if your handy with tools and know how you can save alot of money.
I came accross the same problem & installed similar heater, 1 thing wasn't mentioned was the need to purge air out from the heater before turning heater on. (I do repairs to but don't post online but considering it.)
Yes the need to purge air from the water pipes & the gas pipe, also there was no mention of checking the flame or efficiency of the gas burner itself, or does the manufacturer just set all these gas burners the same?
Good job ron you just made 100s of people who have no business messing with potable water lines and natural gas become weekend warriors.. this is why Monday’s are also so busy at plumbing companies.
You should have bought a low nox 96% efficient tankless water heater. Your vent pipe would have been pvc plastic and you would have zero inches to combustible.. I have a Rinnai with a concentric vent. It truly is the way to go also with a tankless having a recirculating pump is a must if not you'll be waiting forever to get hot water if you have fixtures that are 30' or more away
@Harry Corley I'll put it like this when I installed my Rinnai tankless water heater it took forever to get hot water to my farthest shower which is a good 45 foot away and when you're going green with a tankless water heater that defeats the purpose because I'm letting 45 seconds of water go down the drain at 2.5 gallons a minute for my shower head once I installed my recirc pump and made a hot water loop with a second hot water line I can now start the pump let the pump run for 30 seconds and then go to my fixture and have hot water and under 10 seconds I'm no longer waste in water down the drain it's moving through the pipes heating up until I need it letting 10 seconds of water go down the drain is a lot better than 45 seconds when I'm waiting for hot water that's why I say for me a recirculating pump was ideal for my setup
@Harry Corley Your reply did agree with me no doubt there, but after reading your second reply I would have to disagree with your opinion on tankless beeing green is a myth because how much gas they burn. My tankless is 96% efficiency when the gas is burning.That means it burns very very little gas. And thats only when we call for hot water unlike a tank that turns on and off all throughout the day to keep the water temperature at the desired heat that the thermostat is set at. on /off all day and night burning gas then you drain the tank when you take showers or laundry or what ever you need hot water for. Then your tank has to fill back up and use more gas to heat the water back up to the desired temperature setting, always using gas or electric. We do lots of laundry and dishes and showers are going 2-3 times a day at my house family of 3 now. My circ pump only comes on when I call for hot water no timmer or nun of that settings stuff. If I lose power doesn't affect my my pump. My pump is called the Water Quick Pro and the way it works is just go to any faucet in the house turn the hot water on for 2 seconds then turn off the faucet the pump will turn on my tankless unit and the pump will start pumping water through my hot water lines for a good 2 to 3 minutes after that time your hot water line is now purged with hot water and ready to use. Its unlike any pump on the market very cool technology. Check them out at www.fasterhotwater.com We use to have a 40 gallon Electric tank waterheater when i finally switch to my gas tankless my electric bill went down significantly and my gas bill did not change a single bit and my tankless is 199,000 BTU it required a 1" gas line to feed this bad boy because of 30' distance it is away from my gas meter 3/4 gas line was not big enough to carry the gas load. Also Columbia Gas had to come and swap out the old gas meter for a 400,000 BTU gas meter that was required because my furnace is 90,000 BTU and 289,000 BTU exceeded what the old gas meter could put out (only 200,000 btu gas meter) but yet again my gas bill never changed.. Still $70 a month. So for me a tankless is going green. My electric bill went down, gas bill never changed, and we have endless hot water. Water bill even went down a little water bills are monthly where we live as well and high for everone around here. We can debate all day but once I went tankless I never looked back and never will again
@Harry Corley Be careful that your return doesn't limit your PSI coming out of the faucet, though. My plumber made that mistake on a tankless he installed for us in 2006.
I checked my gas usage during the summer when the furnace is off and then took the difference in cost between a tank type and a tankless. The tankless would never pay for itself during it's lifetime.
Using CSST make sure your gas pipe is bonded to prevent explosion if the gas meter is ever struck by lightning. Also navien uses 2 inch sch40 well casing pvc for venting which is better and cheaper to install.
For us an important part of tankless is the stainless steel exchange that can be flushed to clear hard water build up which occurs despite water softener.
In some homes there isn't a clear place to install a unit like this. When installing the vent pipe the manufacturers recommend only 1 (one) 90 degree bend. Also length. Yours is very short but the manufacturers recommend and evac fan if you're forced to install it using the existing roof venting because of the length. I've installed one for my RV. It hangs on the outside of the trailer right above where the old tank unit was. Bought on the Amazon for $125. Plenty of water for a one bedroom one bath unit LOL.
Was it just me or was there no service valves installed also I’m pretty sure they used M copper instead of L and they also did not show bonding the CSST gas line
I may have missed the part about calculations of the gas line run... there's stuff about this in the install manual, including manometer tests, and "certified professionals"...
Wouldn't it have been easier to install an electric tankless instead of the gas tankless. You wouldn't have to install new gas lines. The electric is pretty much plug and play, no vent holes needed in the house. Just hang on the wall, connect the the water hoses, and plug it into a 40 amp outlet. Simple.
RON,I HAD NOT SEEN ANY PALOMA UNITS, AS RHEEM BOUGHT THE BRAND, I RECALL MANY YEARS AGO WHEN THAT BRAND HIT USA, HOWEVER YOU DID NOT INSTALL A CLEANOUT PIPING SETUP, WEBSTONE MAKES IT SO EASY, 🇯🇵🇯🇵🇺🇸🇺🇸
Hi... why did you need to create a new vent? Couldn't you just use the one vent system from the tank system? Also since you made a new vent, what did you do about the old vent?
I am a Plumbing Contractor in MI. and specialize in service. These on-demand tankless water heaters are imported from overseas and while Lowes and Home Deport are fast to move you from a tank to tankless, you might ask them where the service parts are and who services them. These units have there issues as well and when they aren't working it could be weeks for you to get parts. That is if you can find some to work on it. Explain that to the wife. At that point you realize that you should have installed an AMERICAN MADE tank type water heater from the gitgo. Good luck with your new investment and oh, by the way, "You can't run numerous points of use at the same time and have plenty of hot water, with every fixture running you will loose water volume. The heater will run wide open trying to keep up with demand and believe me... it can't!!
Good old 1970's thinking And yes we run the washer and take a shower at the same time with plenty of hot water Of course you cant buy the cheapest unit on the market Rannai has supply parts all over the country
@@Essenkiller Go get one of those hardware store losers then. I have 25 years in the repair and install business, and can verify that Michael's points are 100% valid. I have actually removed several on demand heaters for customers who are fed up with them. : )
@@Robnord1 Its their own fault if they buy low quality stuff. Buy units from Vaillant, Buderus, Viessmann, or Junkers. Not this cheap American made stuff. They will last a lifetime.
And NOW I know I have to get rid of my tanks here as they are old in this fixer I bought a year ago,, Thankfully us Puerto Ricans know all about tankless water heaters though we use electric models not gas.
@@iLikeC00kieDough Well sir, I found out gas use costs around the same per month as electric for heating since it is freezing here in PA. But alas, gas may be cheaper for some appliances true. For central heating furnace,not so cheap.
Thanks, quite informative. Now we will be doing something similar to our park model trailer. However with a propane system, it also requires a water filtration system. Anything will be better than the less than 5 gallon tank we currently use!
mines 2 years newer but no filtration system was needed. there is a drain tube for the water coming off the propane to go into floor drain - but after 1 year of use, only several ounces was produced from use.
The way you told the story with the camera and words, the planning it took, the music… the t was such an enjoyable experience. Thank you.
Perfect combination of using professional plumber combining with your own handy work youself. Good idea to save installation money that way !!
I saw another video (this old house) where the installer used a large hole saw to install the PLASTIC venting from his unit.
Trouble was that it was very low on the outside of the building,and since it was a house in Milwaukee,Wisconsin; the first big snowfall would clog the vent...your venting configuration made a lot more sense.
I did customer service in the field for 35 years for a water utility. It was my job to respond to stuff like this. 75% of the time issues were in customers plumbing like this break down of a sacrificial diode in the water heater. Tankless need to be cleaned because the coils filled with constant hot water will build mineral deposits and get in customers plumbing. Its wise to add a filter and a clean out for periodic removal of mineral deposits.
Absolutely, I have a filter system in my house and its amazing the debit sediments, in the filter I've seen from the city that supplies my house water..
Great video!
In my case I don’t have gas in my neighbourhood so I purchased an electric tankless water heater, Stiebel Eltron brand which I found at a liquidation price. I sized it up for my home needs and got the appropriate model. Purchase the appropriate breakers in my case I needed two 50 amp breakers and a role of 6/2 gauge wire. Did the math to make sure I had the right service entrance panel and amperage, installed it in about 3 hours. I live in a cold climate where sometimes the temperature goes to -20 or -30 Celsius ( about -15 Fahrenheit) I never run out of hot water, and the temperature is always constant. Cost me about $900.00
What's you electric bill in the winter months? What size house are you heating? With electric I expect it's pretty high
@@DavidA-411 Hi David, I just looked at my annual electric bill for the past two years and between August 2017 and 2018 total was $2609.29 ( $217.44 monthly average or $7.15/day)
and between August 2018 and 2019 total was $1932.26 ($161.02 monthly average or $5.22/day) so did it go down because I'm now using a tankless or is this because of weather conditions, I don't know but I'll see this coming year what my electric bill will be.
My house is 1200 square feet and the amounts above are all in Canadian dollars.
@@Monsterrello Ouch.
@@charliem.7492 It's "ouch" but keep in mind it's also $0 for oil and $0 for gas. It really just depends on the relative costs of different types of fuel where you live.
Can do combination furnace heat exchange on some of these bigger units
Good day Ron I highly appreciate the man you are and all you do. I've been watching you for years. Thank you so much for your wonderful wonderful presentation.
I installed a gas tankless in my house twenty years ago. I have never had problems with it because I only plumbed the shower/tub and clothes washer to it. I figured turning it on and off just to get a little hot water at the sinks in kitchen and bathroom will cause it to breakdown sooner than later. Besides it isn’t instant like a typical hot water tank because the chamber has to heat up so it runs a tad bit before hot water comes out of it, then has to get to its destination. I use a six gallon electric water tank under the kitchen sink to provide hot water to it and the bathroom sink. My only regret is having one while married as I don’t think you will save money with unlimited hot shower water with a women in the house.
The water heater didn't need replaced. Remove the water heater to your yard, and using a long dowel rod (longer than the water heater is tall by at least a foot) the old plastic tube will break up easily (remember the defect its fragile from years of use). Remove the drain valve completely and connect a garden hose to the hot water output. Turn on the hose, and lean the unit some. Gently roll the unit back and forth. Look in the heater to see if its all out, if not repeat. install your new tube, and the drain valve (or a new one). Optionally replace the pressure relief valve while your there and any other common failure points, then reinstall. Works on gas or electric water heaters.
I was thinking the same thing that the tank did not look like it needed replacing. What I would have done is take out the dip tube, anode rod, and drain valve. Duct tape a piece of pipe to the shop vac hose, stick it in through the open ports, and vacuum up the debris. Use a bore/endoscope if you got one for visual confirmation. Install new dip tube, anode, and a proper brass ball valve for a drain and Bob's your uncle... He did a really nice job of installing the tankless unit though. I just think he really wanted one and the debris in the tank was a great excuse. Not that that's a bad thing...I might have taken the same opportunity given the option.
Tank-less water heaters require periodic de-scaling. This involves circulating a de-scaling solution through the heater. For most units, this means that you need a set of valves and T connectors to tap into the water lines. You can find kits for this that include specialized fitting made for this purpose. It also means that you need a circulating pump, a couple of hoses, and the chemical to make the solution. These components are also available in a kit. You also need to remember to perform this service once a year or so, and replenish the chemical. The consequence of not de-scaling the tank-less heater is cold showers, until you perform the de-scaling. Tank heaters should also be flushed once a year. The consequence of not flushing a tank heater is more frequent replacement of the heater.
Another benefit of tank-less is that you don't need to keep a tank full of hot water in your house. Tank-less heaters only heat the water when the water is running. This can result in lower energy cost, depending on your usage pattern.
Keep in mind most to all tankless water heaters will require you to have a water softener for their warranty.
Mike Edwards :
Another benefit of a tank-less water heater is that you also save water because you don’t need to wait for the hot water to come out from the faucet.
@@ajarivas72 Absolutely incorrect. A tankless water heater provides "endless" hot water, but it does not provide instant hot water. The delay in getting hot water at the tap is caused by the volume of water in the pipe between the tap and the water heater. The type of water heater does nothing to change this. The only way to get near-instant hot water at the tap is to install a recirculating loop and pump, which keeps the line charged with hot water.
@@jeffeverde1
Thanks for your reply and insight.
Another way to get instant hot water at the tap or shower is to pre-heat the water in the pipe with an induction coil (steel pipes) or electric resistance
You can save money by buying 3 gallons of distilled white vinegar to circulate and de-scale the inside tubing of the water heater instead of the chemical de-scaler.
We used to encounter this a lot back in the 90's and early 2000's. We installed wye trainer (fine mesh screens) remove the plug on them and install a ball valve to flush the wye strainer. Charged about $290 for the job and replaced the diptube too. Solved all of the issues. No need to replace the water heater.
Retired to Mexico 4 years ago. Most hot water sources here is via tankless water heaters. Propane gas & electric (battery) ignition. Same with the stove and oven. Works great! Efficient and cheap. I love it! 👍
Yeah but you cant drink the water!
great video..But right back in the same position you were with the tank unit since Poloma is a discontinued brand, good luck getting parts!
great choice ron. tankless just keeps getting better & better. paloma makes tankless for rheem. they even have a condensing tankless that has an energy efficiency factor of around 96%. nice heater- I have one in my house. an added bonus? the condensing version uses 3" sch.40 pvc pipe for venting.
Have one as well, only issue is no hot water if power goes off. They need periodic cleaning as well.
The maintenance is definitely never talked about with theses things.
@@b-rainwash410I have a BOSCH-JUNKERS Tankless water heater I haven't touch it in its first 10 years and it was working like a charm! Now it's it is 16 and still doing well with some inexpensive parts being replaced!
You will also need a bigger gas line . A normal 50 Gallon Free standing Water Heater is about 50,000 BTU (Gas Load) and a Tankless is around 199,000
Like a bigger gas pipe or a bigger main line?
Great job however the vent you installed out side is way to tall and unstable, you need a wall support midway to stop breakage...
What caught my eye was the distance to the window. Code here says 4 feet.
@@Gitarzan66 Using TV magic anything is possible - the cost of install will be $$$ higher & maintenance $. Lower cost of operation will pay you back over the years...
Code in new York is 10 feet and 2 feet above ridgeline
Also dedicated electric hardwire no plug in and dedicated circuit breaker. Must have firerock enclosure
Also not seeing any isolation valves to help with yearly maintenance of the water heater.
Glad to see the US is catching up with the UK at last.
We have had combination boilers ('Tankless system') for 30 years or more.
They are highly efficient and require just annual servicing and minimal maintenance.
Welcome to the 20th century.
It looks like you are the one who got stack in 20th centry... In 21st centry we use heat pumps!!! Very efficient and clean source of energy
@@@Nietyp
The outdoor fan unit of an air source heat pump usually takes up as much space as a washing machine. ... On the other hand, some modern boilers (or 'combi' boilers) take away the need for a hot water cylinder altogether, heating water straight from the water mains.
Air source heat pumps run on electricity. the average value for greenhouse gasses emitted per kWh of electricity is 0.54702 kgCO2eq/kWh, whereas for gas this is 0.20435 kgCO2eq/kWh. If we assume that the alternative to a heat pump would be a new gas boiler at 90% efficiency (e.g. www.boilers.org) then in order for an air source heat pump to have a lower level of greenhouse gas emissions, it would need to have a COP of over 2.41
Whole life cost for heat pump over 15 years £17,940.40
Whole life cost for oil boiler over 15 years £14,784.00
No! We are more advanced we don't even need Water heater global warming is here already.
@@@z14film31
Instead of being a keyboard warrior troll you need to do some research.
A Combi boiler and a tankless system are virtually identical.
Tankless units (also called “on demand” units or an instant hot water heater) heat water only when you turn on the faucet.
A combination or 'combi' boiler is both a high efficiency water heater and a central heating boiler in a single compact unit. Combi boilers heat water directly from the mains when you turn on a tap, so you won't need a hot water storage cylinder or a cold water storage tank in the roof space.
Welcome to the 20th century
6 years ago I bought my propane outdoor tankless and all hardware from home depot, little over 900$ investment. Installed myself. To date have saved more than 4000$ compared to when had tank in basement. If you plan and execute correctly you benefit.
It was a pleasure watching this video. Thank you
There's pros and cons to everything.
You need to know your needs are. And of course cost. Regular water heaters are pretty efficient now and you can put insulation blankets on them. Works well. Maintenance is key. 👍😉
George B most of the time where i live. A tank style water heater is either in the garage or house. Neither of those get cold enough for a new foam filled water heater to make it a good idea to install a blanket on a water heater
cannot believe I have watched every bit of this, it is actually very interesting!
Ron!
I loved your movie!
Nice, professional, to the point.
I have a tankless electric water heater and had to put a small tank heater in the line after the tankless. That way it acts as a buffer and I always have instant hot water and no change in water temperature. Both operate on 220V. The electric instant heater is 100 amps and will supply as much hot water as you can use.
I also put a 2.5 gallon electric tank in line under the kitchen sink. That way we have instant hot water for the sink and dishwasher.
Retired Snowbird quite probably, you did NOT PROPERLY SIZE YOUR UNIT, you should NOT HAVE TO USE POINT OF USE HEATERS.CheersFrom NJ🇺🇸
@@flybyairplane3528 I guess I did not explain my set up properly. There is 20 feet of 3/4 copper to my kitchen so too avoid a long wait for hot water in the kitchen I installed a 2.5 gal tank under the kitchen sink
.The 20 gal tank after the tankless supplies us hot water during the day. It is on a timer and only works at night when our electricity rates are lower. It is over 30 cents per kilowatt for electricity here during the day. We have whats called (Time of Use) electricity rates here in Ontario.
The small tank saves us several hundreds of dollars a year.
Cheers
Retired Snowbird SEE I would have zero idea, whereby our are located, but your electric should be CHEAPER THAN MINE IN NJ, anyhow I now see your reasoning, Check this out, in CHATUGAY , QUIBECK, my wife’s aunt nought a little house there, she had oil heat, can you guess what the ELECTRIC COMPANY DID ? They removed her oil unit, then INSTALLED A NEW ELECTRIC FURNACE, as it WAS CHEAPER than oil, HYDRO QUEBEC!, She has now passed many years now. Cheers From NJUSA🇨🇦🇺🇸
Wonderful video, of course, I always been a fan of House Calls. I meet you at Orchard Hardware store many years ago. I will always remember the friendly conversation we had. THANKS
Nice looking copper work but why didn’t you install a service flush valve set to descale the tankless ounce a year?
An HVAC tech suggested that I install a pre and post water filter for use with a tankless water heater to help deal with scale and mineral buildup inside the heat exchanger.
jburr36 YES, a great idea, but if you are wondering ,why the ‘post ‘unit, that is usually a filter, I would use a ‘Y’ STRAINER that can be cleaned, the reason for that is little pieces of minerals, without, when the homer starts seeing them,,THEN ITS TIME TO. DESCALE THE UNIT, Cheers From NJ🇺🇸
I have had a tankless water heater for 9 years. I rent it from my gas utility. It has never been descaled, they say it's not necessary unless there is a problem. Twice i had a spider build a nest inside not allowing it to work but it's a quick job by my utility to remove it at no charge to me.
I can't say it has saved me any money as it takes a little longer to get hot water from the tap so i use a little more water but once it's there it will supply hot water forever if you want.
it's a tankless job but somebody's gotta do it.
lastpirateslife. This comment is way too underrated
john turner Agreed!! 😉
Here, here, lastpirateslife!🍻
No tank you.
You're well come.
Darn I just posted this same comment, you beat me to it.
Why didn’t you just tie into the old flue gas vent line?
Thank you VM. I find ur vid VERY informative. I have the option to go old school hot water tank, or tankless. My old G.E. 2010 natural gas heater died last week.
I use city water which, here, is a bit above avg grade FPSM. Imagine entering a house with the intent to buy it, built in 1957 and standing face to face with a spanking new, tankless, endless hot water heater! HOT! Ohhhh Yeaaahhh.
Looking at your copper pipes. We installed copper in our rebuild about 25 years ago. Did not know that acidic water will cause problems with copper pipes... Learned real fast when the toilet bowls turned bright green. It pays to make sure your water is neutral ph. We had to install a rather pricey filter system since the green meant the copper was quickly corroding and we'd have had leaking pipes in a few short years.
First time watching any of your videos. I gotta say, great video. Very detailed steps and even though I didn't need to watch the whole thing, I found it enjoyable to do so. Definitely look forward to new content.
Well done! The Best Ive seen on these installations. From the store to turning it on. Nobody does the vents!
Renai tankless 1200$ ,installation $2200, one year later 1600$ in repairs and still repairing for it because no matter what I put in front of the vent outside spiders (baby spiders) will make its way in there and block the valve and every 6 months it has to be cleaned.
When it works it’s great
I need customers like you. If I charged $3,400.00 for an average tankless install I'd never have any work
Wonderful video.
I really like seeing a job done well. That crew was well worth the money!
The codes I have read require the sediment trap to be directly below the vertical gas feed, not below a 90 degree horizontal tee feed.
Thanks for this video. I understand that I will probably have to upgrade my gas service to the heater to 3/4 inch. Not a big deal, I have a 1 inch gas service just outside the wall of where this will sit. Cut out some sheet rock and some simple plumbing. What I don't understand is why there is a new exhaust is installed. I already have a 4 inch double wall pipe already thru the roof.
Excellent presentation!!! Just one thought. On the vent pipe outside. Wouldn't it have been better to just come out the wall with a much shorter pipe and put a vent cap on it? The goose neck seems long and can be nuisance and easily bump into.
Nice video but let's go over the shortcomings not discussed in the video.#1 you should always contact your local gas utility of your intention of adding more gas load to the system. I'm sure you went from 40,000 to 50,000 BTUs and increased to around 200,000 BTUs ( Let the utility come out and make sure the equipment is sized for the added load. There usually is no cost for this).#2 let's size your current fuel run to make sure it can handle the added load from the point they tied in the csst back to the gas meter. This is called the longest run method and you will need total BTUs of the house and length of total piping.#3 considering your installer used yellow csst and not Counter-Strike csst you should have went over the whole bonding installation method all the way back to the main ground rod of your electric service panel ( this is mandatory for yellow csst per the national electric and fuel codes).#4 exposed csst not covered by the jacket should always be taped with an approved coatng at these points. My expertise comes from 35 years in the gas utility industry . I am currently retired and consult from time to time on gas installations such as this one, when incidents occur due to improper installations.
Not to mention csst has nowhere near the flow capacity as black iron.
Not to mention a cheap sniffer is not an accurate leak check. They should have run a manometer test on the system. Another thing I noticed is that they installed the shut off valve after the sediment trap which is against code. Third paloma heaters are junk. Fourth why spend all that time on running water lines perfectly and then run csst strapped to the joists and wall. Hard pipe would have been a much cleaner installation.
@@richardhintersehr9014 you're my kind of technician. I can assure you there is a lot of contractors out there who don't even know how to perform a manometer test on fuel runs ( scary huh ?).
15 years of natural and propane gas installation and service have taught me how things can and should be done. I would've much rather seen him use a Rinnai or Noritz heater and an actual gas technician instead of a plumber to do the gas work. Just because a master plumbing license gives you the right to do has work doesn't mean you have the ability...
Done wrong: they wonder why they had a gas explosion 🤔
Ron, you are fascinating!
You have such a beautiful gift to help and guide people with your videos. Thank you!
Basic plumbing repair: whenever you remove a strainer or hose to clean it out, turn the water on for a few and let it flow free to flush the crud out.
You have young enough kids that use a rubber ducky? With condensing units today, the instruction is much different on installation. The plumbers were very thorough in this install.
Great video sir, one point that you made which was right, but wanted to give another perspective on it is that yes plumbers bend the solder to get around the pipe, but if you notice we also usually bend a certain amount. That is because when you solder you should use the size of the pipe as how much solder you need to use (1/2 pipe, you should use half inch of solder) other than that great video
anyone wanting this, the only drawback is you should make a cleanout valve. You can use white vinegar in the cleanout valve to keep hard water deposits (scale) from building up. Areas that have very hard water, should be cleaned out about once every 3 months, and the norm is about once every 6 months.
They sell kits for adding the valves and it looks super clean ! If you don't flush it ,every six months or so , u lose the efficiency of the heater and could cause it to fail all together.
On you could put a sediment filter on the hot water pipe leaving the tank.
Yep, and clean it everyday.
Excellent video.
that white plastic is broken dip tube....if you only get lukewarm water usually that is the problem.....cold water not going to tank bottom..
well explained
Ron, you are a boss.
Thank you Ron Joe H.
Good job as always Ron !
Loved the video. I just know I could not do it alone. Great Idea!!!
My Renai required a 3/4” gas connection; therefore I couldn’t use the 1/2” gas line from the old standard water heater. I added a water softener to the system which presumably will double the life of the tankless water heater. The larger gas line is needed to comply with the instant hot water heating requirement!
some tankless dont need 3/4 gas pipe anymore, it use 1/2, the new one, look at noritz.
The sizing of the gas pipe depends on the BTU needs of the tankless heater and the length of the pipe from the home's gas meter. Most natural gas tankless heaters are 140,000 BTU to 199,000 BTU, whereas a typical 50 gallon tank-type water heater needs only 62,000 BTU. So yeah - to install a tankless heater, it is not uncommon that you'll need to have the gas company out to install a larger capacity gas meter, and then you need to run the correct sized pipe to the tankless heater -- one-inch pipe if your run is over 10 feet or so to one of the larter 199,000 BTU units.
Very educational thank you.,
Thank you, with this video I'll be converting to a tankless waterheater
Way to go fella. Gas is great until you hear the great big BANG.
Anyone can do it with a little common sense, a few tools, and youtube.
@@lonnieutley7343 That is why we have CZcams for guidance. Peace too. VF
Can I reduce my vent from the 4in to a 3-inch after four feet?
This guy's every DIYers dream like an encyclopedia
So what is the cost-benefit analysis? New water tank, the energy efficiency of tankless vs. tank, versus install costs for the average homeowner having to pay a plumber for the entire job.?
Great video, by the way. You have a better on-camera personality than half those people on HGTV.
There are a lot of variables, like how much hot water you use, how often you go away (i.e., not using any hot water) and what your water and gas (or electricity) costs. Generally, though, I've read that tankless units pay for themselves in 5 - 7 years, and also last longer, because they don't need the maintenance that a tank needs. That is, I think, if you install it yourself. If you it the way Ron does and have a plumber run the pipes, but do everything else yourself, your cost will take longer to recover. Having a plumber do it all will take even longer.
My personal opinion is that tankless is definitely worth it. You don't have 50 gallons of water held at 120 degrees 24/7, which seems incredibly inefficient to me. When our tank goes, my wife and I plan on going tankless. What does kind of suck, though, is that if the power was out, you wouldn't have hot water. Luckily, that has happened twice in the 15 years we've been in our house, and both times it was only for a couple hours.
@@scottplumer3668 Thanks for the reply. I put in a timer and only run our water heater between 12-3 PM to save some money. Our water heater is only 4 years old and of good quality, so it holds the heat good.
You bring up some good points to consider Scott - Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.
Have a great week.
Do those come electric also. Wish you would've mentioned a ball park figure on cost of the tank as opposed to the tankless. Guys did a good job
he could have cut half the work with venting going electric, but probably would need to upgrade the components so it would somewhat even out.
@@dogelife7901 True but natural gas is way more $$ efficient then electric and odds of it not working during a power outage is minimal. All you need is a small generator with 120v to power it vs one with a 240v outlet.
Great diy job sir. You really nailed home the reason why companies charge so much for this but if your handy with tools and know how you can save alot of money.
You better know the codes for your city and state.
I came accross the same problem & installed similar heater, 1 thing wasn't mentioned was the need to purge air out from the heater before turning heater on. (I do repairs to but don't post online but considering it.)
Yes the need to purge air from the water pipes & the gas pipe, also there was no mention of checking the flame or efficiency of the gas burner itself, or does the manufacturer just set all these gas burners the same?
Good job ron you just made 100s of people who have no business messing with potable water lines and natural gas become weekend warriors.. this is why Monday’s are also so busy at plumbing companies.
You should have bought a low nox 96% efficient tankless water heater. Your vent pipe would have been pvc plastic and you would have zero inches to combustible.. I have a Rinnai with a concentric vent. It truly is the way to go also with a tankless having a recirculating pump is a must if not you'll be waiting forever to get hot water if you have fixtures that are 30' or more away
It doesn't really takes too long to have hot water in your shower, sink and others. It is just matter of seconds (10-15).
@Harry Corley I'll put it like this when I installed my Rinnai tankless water heater it took forever to get hot water to my farthest shower which is a good 45 foot away and when you're going green with a tankless water heater that defeats the purpose because I'm letting 45 seconds of water go down the drain at 2.5 gallons a minute for my shower head once I installed my recirc pump and made a hot water loop with a second hot water line I can now start the pump let the pump run for 30 seconds and then go to my fixture and have hot water and under 10 seconds I'm no longer waste in water down the drain it's moving through the pipes heating up until I need it letting 10 seconds of water go down the drain is a lot better than 45 seconds when I'm waiting for hot water that's why I say for me a recirculating pump was ideal for my setup
@Harry Corley I meant 2.5 gallons a minute not not second
@Harry Corley Your reply did agree with me no doubt there, but after reading your second reply I would have to disagree with your opinion on tankless beeing green is a myth because how much gas they burn. My tankless is 96% efficiency when the gas is burning.That means it burns very very little gas. And thats only when we call for hot water unlike a tank that turns on and off all throughout the day to keep the water temperature at the desired heat that the thermostat is set at. on /off all day and night burning gas then you drain the tank when you take showers or laundry or what ever you need hot water for. Then your tank has to fill back up and use more gas to heat the water back up to the desired temperature setting, always using gas or electric. We do lots of laundry and dishes and showers are going 2-3 times a day at my house family of 3 now. My circ pump only comes on when I call for hot water no timmer or nun of that settings stuff. If I lose power doesn't affect my my pump. My pump is called the Water Quick Pro and the way it works is just go to any faucet in the house turn the hot water on for 2 seconds then turn off the faucet the pump will turn on my tankless unit and the pump will start pumping water through my hot water lines for a good 2 to 3 minutes after that time your hot water line is now purged with hot water and ready to use. Its unlike any pump on the market very cool technology. Check them out at www.fasterhotwater.com We use to have a 40 gallon Electric tank waterheater when i finally switch to my gas tankless my electric bill went down significantly and my gas bill did not change a single bit and my tankless is 199,000 BTU it required a 1" gas line to feed this bad boy because of 30' distance it is away from my gas meter 3/4 gas line was not big enough to carry the gas load. Also Columbia Gas had to come and swap out the old gas meter for a 400,000 BTU gas meter that was required because my furnace is 90,000 BTU and 289,000 BTU exceeded what the old gas meter could put out (only 200,000 btu gas meter) but yet again my gas bill never changed.. Still $70 a month. So for me a tankless is going green. My electric bill went down, gas bill never changed, and we have endless hot water. Water bill even went down a little water bills are monthly where we live as well and high for everone around here. We can debate all day but once I went tankless I never looked back and never will again
@Harry Corley Be careful that your return doesn't limit your PSI coming out of the faucet, though. My plumber made that mistake on a tankless he installed for us in 2006.
I'm on my second tankless, they are fantastic, would never go back. USE A SURGE PROTECTOR !! a storm fried my first one, had it 10 years
JESUS IS the only way.
Who installed your tankless?
How many people live in your home?
Do you have a very large tub that gets a lot of use?
OMG, Ron!!! Absolutely flawless presentation!!! Camera work perfect! Pacing perfect! Content and explanations perfect!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks!!
man. that is a lot of work but well worth it
Thanks
I’ll do it next.
I checked my gas usage during the summer when the furnace is off and then took the difference in cost between a tank type and a tankless. The tankless would never pay for itself during it's lifetime.
Using CSST make sure your gas pipe is bonded to prevent explosion if the gas meter is ever struck by lightning. Also navien uses 2 inch sch40 well casing pvc for venting which is better and cheaper to install.
3 whole house water filter system / UV water filter system
For us an important part of tankless is the stainless steel exchange that can be flushed to clear hard water build up which occurs despite water softener.
Excellent presentation thank you very professional
Sediment trap for the gas line did you say? Mine was installed with a pipe coming down just like yours I was wondering why my plumber did that.
Usually called a "dirt leg".
Cause natural gas and propane is dirty gas
Such a well done video. Amazing
Great video!
make sure flex gas line is grounded with a ground rod . lighting strikes can blow a hole in the flex line and cause a fire.
In some homes there isn't a clear place to install a unit like this. When installing the vent pipe the manufacturers recommend only 1 (one) 90 degree bend. Also length. Yours is very short but the manufacturers recommend and evac fan if you're forced to install it using the existing roof venting because of the length. I've installed one for my RV. It hangs on the outside of the trailer right above where the old tank unit was. Bought on the Amazon for $125. Plenty of water for a one bedroom one bath unit LOL.
Was it just me or was there no service valves installed also I’m pretty sure they used M copper instead of L and they also did not show bonding the CSST gas line
I may have missed the part about calculations of the gas line run... there's stuff about this in the install manual, including manometer tests, and "certified professionals"...
How much did it end up costing altogether
Wouldn't it have been easier to install an electric tankless instead of the gas tankless. You wouldn't have to install new gas lines. The electric is pretty much plug and play, no vent holes needed in the house. Just hang on the wall, connect the the water hoses, and plug it into a 40 amp outlet. Simple.
RON,I HAD NOT SEEN ANY PALOMA UNITS, AS RHEEM BOUGHT THE BRAND, I RECALL MANY YEARS AGO WHEN THAT BRAND HIT USA, HOWEVER YOU DID NOT INSTALL A CLEANOUT PIPING SETUP,
WEBSTONE MAKES IT SO EASY, 🇯🇵🇯🇵🇺🇸🇺🇸
excellent video thanks for posting
So much work I guess you really gotta hate water tank heaters
This guy right here...
Why doesn't the extended exterior vent pipe need an additional bracket to prevent it from shifting?
Good observation! 🧐
Harry Corley not just snowball BUT RAIN, is why it’s inverted! Cheers From NJ🇺🇸
Hi... why did you need to create a new vent? Couldn't you just use the one vent system from the tank system? Also since you made a new vent, what did you do about the old vent?
air ventilation co2 detector ? house holder fitting fue.
You are awesome!
Thank you 🎉
~ Now thats a Pretty install my brother ~
My Navien has cleanout/flush valves and a water filter on the cold line.
4 water filters whole house and UV light system setup
Had a gas tankless installed. Loved it, but not great for large families. Also electric not as efficient.
How large a family you talking? Couldn’t get bigger unit?
I don't think you added inlet and outlet to purge the tank every year with vinegar. If you have hard water it will be ruined in no time
I am a Plumbing Contractor in MI. and specialize in service. These on-demand tankless water heaters are imported from overseas and while Lowes and Home Deport are fast to move you from a tank to tankless, you might ask them where the service parts are and who services them. These units have there issues as well and when they aren't working it could be weeks for you to get parts. That is if you can find some to work on it. Explain that to the wife.
At that point you realize that you should have installed an AMERICAN MADE tank type water heater from the gitgo. Good luck with your new investment and oh, by the way, "You can't run numerous points of use at the same time and have plenty of hot water, with every fixture running you will loose water volume. The heater will run wide open trying to keep up with demand and believe me... it can't!!
Well it has been a long time since I read such a bullshit. Make America great again? Sorry you are playing yourself.
Good old 1970's thinking And yes we run the washer and take a shower at the same time with plenty of hot water Of course you cant buy the cheapest unit on the market Rannai has supply parts all over the country
@@Essenkiller Go get one of those hardware store losers then. I have 25 years in the repair and install business, and can verify that Michael's points are 100% valid. I have actually removed several on demand heaters for customers who are fed up with them. : )
@@Robnord1 Its their own fault if they buy low quality stuff. Buy units from Vaillant, Buderus, Viessmann, or Junkers. Not this cheap American made stuff. They will last a lifetime.
And NOW I know I have to get rid of my tanks here as they are old in this fixer I bought a year ago,, Thankfully us Puerto Ricans know all about tankless water heaters though we use electric models not gas.
That sucks. Gas where I live is so much cheaper than electric
@@iLikeC00kieDough Well sir, I found out gas use costs around the same per month as electric for heating since it is freezing here in PA. But alas, gas may be cheaper for some appliances true. For central heating furnace,not so cheap.
pianokeyjoe probably true for Puerto Rico. I’m in the northeastern us and natural gas is so plentiful, it’s dirt cheap
And, I cut an 8" hole right through my 10" load bearing floor joist... Brilliant.
That's just the rim joist it's sitting on the foundation you can cut it out with no compromise to structural integrity
Good video man
Thanks, quite informative. Now we will be doing something similar to our park model trailer. However with a propane system, it also requires a water filtration system. Anything will be better than the less than 5 gallon tank we currently use!
mines 2 years newer but no filtration system was needed. there is a drain tube for the water coming off the propane to go into floor drain - but after 1 year of use, only several ounces was produced from use.