8 years later, your video has helped me and my team to repair our lathe. Ours is an older discontinued Grizzly model, but the mechanisms are identical. Grizzly tech support was great, but your video helped fill in some gaps. Thank you!
Part of the problem with sliding the pulley off the shaft is that the clip ring will cause slight burring around the slot it slips into. Use a small honing stone or 320-400 wet sandpaper with 3-in-1 oil. Also, replace the belt before sliding on the outer pulley and save yourself some agony. Enjoyed watching this because you pointed out some areas I had concern for👍🏻
Just completely disassembled, cleaned, greased and reassembled my Reeves drive by following your video. It’s never been smoother. Thank you very, very much I would never have been able to do it without you.
I have a mejix 900 tb couldn’t find any manuals online till your video randomly popped up. I can finally fix it now. The exact same just different name
Great job ! 👍🏻 It’s a good possibility if you took the open dry ball bearing to an industrial bearing shop, it could be replaced with a sealed lifetime lubricated bearing of better quality. I really got a lot out of your video. Thanks 👍🏻
I want to thank you. I was having issues with my grizzly lathe with the Reeves speed control. After watching your video I was able to fix it. Thanks again.
Great Video. I have an old Sears Lathe ( bought new) in which the Reeves drive stopped working. I tore it apart at the time but after a while, I just bought a Powermatic and moved on. The sears lathe is still sitting here. This video has motivated me to open the old lathe back up and try again. Good to know the Tech department recommended Lithium grease. Good Video.
This was just the video I was searching the tube for. I have just bought an old Axminster M900 got it home put the bed on the stand took me a time to wire up as the on / off switch was missing ( all I had was a wire from the motor). When I plugged in all I have is slow speed, the leaver controlling the speed is jammed and won't move so I was desperate to find a vid that showed how the Reeves Drive works. Thank you for your video I can now go out to the workshop and feel quietly confident and get this thing working. 👍
Very helpful. I noticed my speed seemed off and prompted me to check CZcams videos. I backed up and watched 3 times when I noticed he missed replacing the snap ring. In the end, he figured it out. Thanks for the helpful remedy for my speed change problem.
Thank you! My speed control was frozen. I was in the house if trying to figure it out. When I took the belt off. The speed controls came free! I used my lithium grease, and it’s working now!
A SUPER helpful video. I don't have the same 'Make' of Lathe but on watching video's I have noticed that various makes of lathe are actually the same, so somewhere in the world these lathes are made then stickers are put on them by various manufactures .
You are right about being careful with the pulley halves. They are very easy to damage. My lathe isn't a Jet but it is identical to yours. When my belt broke, I found that the space between the case casting and the pulley was too tight to fit a new belt in without removing the pulley like you did. Unfortunately my pulley would not slide off the end like yours did. While trying to pry it off, the pulley cracked. I discovered that the diameter of the shaft near the end was larger than it was on the rest of the shaft. To put the replacement parts on, I needed to file the area around the c-clip channel to reduce the diameter. I wish I had known how brittle the metal was and the problem with the shaft. I could have used the file first and saved a lot of time and money. Nice video.
Hi I have a SIP lathe which appears to be identical to this Jet lathe. I had exactly the same issues and exactly the same problem taking it apart but I resolved it in the same way. I wish I’d seen your video first. Great video and very informative. Brilliant job. Regards, Andy.
Thanks for taking the time to post this Larry. I just bought an older JWL-1236 (slate gray in color) and was curious how the Reeves drive set-up worked.
Great video. I wish I had seen this BEFORE I worked on my Grizzly lathe. I ended up using a screwdriver to separate the pulleys like you did and SNAP. Broke the pulley. Took me a while to get a replacement. Thanks for not cutting out your oops moments. We all have them.
wow, thanks for posting this video. Interesting that your lathe is a Jet and mine is an Axminster, cos they are identical in every single way, including the colour. Now I can go fix my lathe as i have been having the exact same problem. Thanks again Debs
Great Job. I have a 14-42 VS Jet I have had to replace the Head stock reeves pulleys . My reeves pulleys for the motor broke today and I now I have to replace it. This is informative video.
It was useful thanks. I was worried that there is something wrong my used jet lathe because it is so dang loud. After watching a few of this vids, I now know it's just the design. I'll live with that. Still gonna take it apart and clean it up.
I have to tell you that the inner half Reeves pulley on your mainshaft is worn out. It is supposed to be a press fit into the speed control bearing and yours is just sliding in and out of the inner part of the bearing race this is a very common fault on these Reeves pulleys. You said they were an aluminium casting. I wish they were they would last a lot longer. They are in fact a zinc alloy, which you in the States call "Pot Metal" and that is considerably softer than aluminium, thus they wear much faster. Once that pulley is no longer tight in the bearing it just wears away getting looser and much noisier too. The only remedy is a new pulley. I have the same problem and have decided to scrap the whole Reeves speed control system and put on a new 3 phase motor with same size pulleys and a VFD for speed control. I will be able to get down to 35 or so rpm's and up to 3000 and all speeds in between. A far better arrangement I think.
Thanks for the info. I agree with your solution, in fact, so much so, I sold that lathe (a couple years ago) and bought a Jet 1221VS. Absolutely love the variable speed control--use it all the time.
I thought it was odd how that beating just loosely sits in there. I watched again and I see the inner side of that pulley has a part that would be inserted into that bearing. Being loose like that is what was causing a bunch of noise too I bet.
My harbor freight version has a snap ring on the inner side of that pulley too, I imagine it's to keep it from relying on just the belt to separate the pulleys when the speed is changed.
I wish I would have watched this first as I have broken the motor pulley so I have had to order a new one, one point my lathe is a Clarke CWL20RV but identical to yours and I cannot get the belt to go over the pulley as there is not enough gap between the lathe housing and the pulley, thanks for an excellent video.
Thanks! Just what I was looking for. I need to disassemble and lube mine and you showed and explained how. Changing speeds on mine is very difficult. It obviously needs cleaning and lube. Thanks again.
Video is still right on. Lots of Reeves drives out there. I followed your instructions and got all the way to removing the inner pulley wheel. It is frozen to the shaft big time! I’ve destroyed it in the process. I ordered a replacement. I think I’m going to have to try to grind or cut it off somehow. One thing for sure, that was my problem. Thanks again for the video.
@@jjp95136 He may be missing a snap ring that goes on the inner pulley on the other side of the bearing to keep the pulley from pulling out of the bearing when changing speeds. Without that snap ring you are relying on the belt to push the pulleys apart. I used a 3 jaw puller from Hazard Fraught and stuck the point in the middle of the shaft and the jaws around the speed change bracket thing that the pulley goes into and after some elbow grease I was able to get it off. That's when I noticed the snap ring hidden on the back side of the pulley! Even after I took the ring off I still had to use a drift and pound out the pulley from the bearing though. This seems to be a good design until the moment it gets a speck of dust on it. Which we all know that a lathe will have WAY more than a speck of dust on it! Still working on it, previous owner destroyed the pulleys and marred up the shaft trying to get it apart, now I am facing lots of sanding to get the shaft smooth enough to accept the new pulleys. At some point I think I will be trying to acquire a junk tread mill and using the DC motor and speed controller to replace this stupid reeves drive, but for now I just want to get the lathe working again.
I have the harbor freight version of this lathe, I bought it used with busted pulleys. The previous owner had started to disassemble it but gut stuck and sold it to me. I found your video very helpful in seeing how the lathe goes back together and how the speed change mechanism operates. The shaft is fairly buggered up and I will need to sand it pretty good to get the new pulleys back on. One important difference is that there is a snap ring on the back of the inner pulley behind the bearing (and maybe some of the Jet models have this too). I did not know this and had to use a puller to remove the bearing assembly, using it to push off the pulley as well (well, what remained of it, the old man had bashed it to bits trying to get it off). You mentioning the collar coming off the shaft leads me to believe that maybe the snap ring on mine was an effort to help make sure that doesn't happen. My shaft seems like it's almost too large I have been sanding it but I can't seem to get the new pulley to fit. I am unsure as to the provenance of the new pulley set, as they came with the lathe, but he did say he bought them from Hazard Fraught's parts hotline. I am working on hooking a face plate to another face plate and seeing if I can get my little mini lathe to turn the shaft so I can sand it faster. This may end in my death.
I had a problem with the same lathe with noise & not shifting into various speeds. I watched your video & decided to tear my JWL 1236 apart. The centrifugal pulley was frozen to the shaft (non-motor side). I had to use heat on it to free it up to slide it off the shaft. I noticed that it was "Galled" on the shaft. The reason this happened is because these are Dis-similar metals" & whoever assembled these lathes should've used anti-seize between those two metals! Debur the pulleys, too. Always, use anti-seize when connecting different metals together or you will experience galling & may need to used heat to separate them in the future. Dissimilar metals cause corrosion!! I removed the shaft, also & those sealed bearings needed replacing. Replacing the belt & 3 bearings was $97.00 through ereplacementparts. You can't service these parts on the lathe so just change them out & you should virtually hear NO Noise when the lathe is running! I have turned over 600 bowls with this lathe & wood purchase another one if necessary.
Glad to see you have a go at something your not sure about. As for that bearing on the speed changer it is bone dry and shot and you do need a new one as it spins too freely and that shows wear on the bearings and inner races plus try to get a bearing that is sealed on both sides as this keeps the bearing grease inside the bearing and the sawdust out. Use a press to change the bearing and check to see if there is an inner circlip holding the bearing in before you try pushing it out.
Thanks for adding to the info. I no longer have that lathe, but there are many people out there that do (or a similar one) and will benefit from your knowledge.
Thanks for the how-to video! I have the same model Jet with the same problem you faced. I was just trying to turn a project and I couldn't adjust the speeds...so after a trip to Harbor Freight to buy a pair of snap ring pliers, I'll tackle the lathe. It's overdue for a good cleaning and lube as well.
@@knotnowwoodworking, I read a few of the tips and followed the one for using a shoelace to remove the belt... a pretty clever idea. I ended up removing only the front portion of the upper pulley and lubricating the shaft. I couldn't remove the 2nd half of the pulley as it wouldn't budge much, and I didn't want to exert too much force trying to pry it off. I then lubricated the shaft with white lithium grease (I didn't have any graphite dry lubricant on hand). I also lubricated the bottom shaft around the pulley and the spring mechanism which turned out to be the real problem. Long story short, I got it working again, better than before!
Good video. I have the Harbor Freight wood lathe that is similar. It makes some noise too. All of the power tools make noise. The Shopsmith is similar too.
@ Knot Now Woodworking FYI, This is apparently an issue with many lathe's which have this variable speed control design, more so the sticking rear pulley on the main Headstock shaft speed control.. I would like to share that in a very similar lathe, the Speed control Level, Bearing and Rear Pulley are actually held together with a cir-clip, ensuring when you try to 'open' the top pulleys, the bearing section does not part from the pulley. Might be worth checking your Rear Pulley to see if there is a grove on the aluminium casting to accept a cir-clip. There youtube video contains similar content to this one, with the details of the cir-clip as in installed on a Scheppach DMS 900 lathe - search CZcams for "Scheppach DMS 900 (Pulley and bearing replacement)". See approx 6min40seconds into the video for the cir-clip being reinstalled. I was advised to use a Dry Lube, as any wet lubricant or grease would only attract fine sawdust and result in a similar sticking pulley issue. Good Luck with your's.. Mark
Correct, the "shifting lever bracket" that houses that open bearing is supposed to be able to pull the sliding half of the pulley. I agree there is a snap ring missing.
If you need a new variable speed pulley, Speed Selector makes pulleys that replace the Reeves, Hi-Lo, TB Woods and Lovejoy pulleys that went out of business or got bought. Most are in stock or Speed Selector will custom make if needed. They have an actual engineering department; very helpful.
Can someone please help me, I need a video for a Jet JWL 1442. When the speed is turned up there is vibration, I used the lathe a few weeks ago and it was fine then, the floor is even. This lathe is different to mine.
Have the same lathe and did the same process, but with both sets of pulleys. Works gtreat. Question, For this lathe does anuyone have a sugestión for using a fostner bit with the existing tail stock, or how to Install a morse tapar? TYhank you!
Speed Selector makes variable speed pulleys that replace the Reeves, Hi-Lo and TB Woods pulleys that went out of business or got bought. Most of the pulleys are in stock or Speed Selector will custom make if needed. They have an actual engineering department who were very helpful.
The inside half of the motor pulley on my new 34706 has a clicking noise coming from within the pulley housing. One click per rotation.Not sure is there is something loose inside there or what. Very annoying but otherwise operates fine.
When I was having the problem, I looked all over and couldn't find a video on fixing the pulleys, so I jumped in and made my first video. I'm glad it helped you.
I can't believe you got it off in one peice. Mine crumbled in my hands the inside pulley on the arbor should have had a snap ring holding it to the bearing
there are 3 retaining clips on the spindle pully side.. Mainly if you dont put that "snap ring" on the end of the spindle shaft it will push that pulley right off.. Don't ask how I know.
I would check the size of the bearing that squeezes the upper pulley assembly. See if you can find a sealed replacement, or you'll be opening that thing up several times a year to clean it. Also, WD-40 is great stuff, but not ideal for dirty/dusty areas because it causes sawdust to stick.
Once in a while, tapping just the key can push it back enough the pulley can come off. Bearings from aftermarket suppliers are cheap, relatively speaking, replace them. Don't gamble. If you can hear a bearing, assume it's dead.
If you're struggling to remove the pulley as KNW was, put lubricant on the shaft and it should slide right off. Also, removing the belt is a lot easier if you remove the outside pulley first, rather than trying it the way he did it.
I just read your comment. Ironically after seeing this video I decided to tear my Harbor Freight (identical Reeves drive) apart because it was nearly impossible to Change speeds. Found that the inner pulley bearing is actually frozen to the shaft. I’ve tried everything to get it off and have destroyed it in the process. The center portion of what remains of the pulley is still frozen to the shaft. I set the lathe up on end so penetrating fluid would gravitate down the shaft. If it isn’t loose tomorrow I’m pulling out the torch. I have a replacement pulley ordered.
2:59 to 8:17 you can see the pulley on the motor stuck in the 'Slow' position. 8:18 it springs closed as it should. Seemed to operate ok though. Worth keeping an eye on
Anyone know the size of that bearing? Mine was starting to get noisy and I greased it, however being that it’s a lathe and lots of dust, I like the idea of a sealed bearing. Bonus points for a part number!
Thanks for your comment. I don't have the lathe anymore so I had to watch the video to see what I said. It looks like you just need to remove the snap ring at the end of the pulley shaft, then remove the spring. You can use a vice-grip to keep the spring compressed while you work on it. If you have any question, call Jet--their support is very good. Hope this helps.
It did NOT come with a hand wheel, and this was a real pain when having to turn the work piece with the lathe off. I hated that. I don't have the lathe anymore so I can't check to see which way the thread went.
The motor pulley ratio 'range' is limited by the spring - when it is fully compressed, that's as far as it's going. If you move the inner half out too far, you'll lose some lower end on your speed range. You'll know if it's too far back - the belt should never touch the shaft.
do you know were I find the variable speed pulley for central machinery this lathe have the same sistem like your jet lathe thanks and sorry for my english I hope you help me
Hi Solrac, there is a website called www.ereplacementparts.com that has parts for almost everything. If your lathe uses the exact same JET parts, then the part you're looking for is JWL1236-12 (Spindle Pulley). It seems that they sell the right half but not the left half (JWL1236-14). Maybe they sell the entire thing now as one part number, you'll have to contact the site and find out. Hope this helps.
Can you direct me where I can get the replacement pulleys and drive centre to buy I am from Guyana but currently holidaying in USA will love a Quick feed back dear sir
I have a Jet 1442vs lathe. When I take a deeper cut the belt bellies out and the rpm's slow down. I an even grab the hand wheel and slow the rpm's down. Have replaced the motor pulley but it didn't help. any suggestions? Good video!
Did you replace the belt too? Does the 1442 adjust the same way that the 1221VS does (that's the lathe I have now)? If so, make sure you have enough tension on the belt. If you can't apply enough tension, may the belt is stretched. I've called Jet on other issues and found them VERY responsive. If you can't fix it, give them a call. I'm sure they will help. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Harris, I think you're talking about the Centrifugal Switch on the fan end of the motor. A problem with that sometimes makes the motor not start after it's turned off unless you turn the spindle by hand. I don't think it would effect the RPMs. William might have a problem with the speed control. I had to replace it on the Wen lathe because I could slow down the motor with my hand.
The problem is that the main shaft Reeves pulley is worn out where it is pressed into the speed control bearing and is loose. When you take a heavy cut it just slides out of the bearing and goes to a slower speed even though the speed lever is still engaged in its notch, you Weill probably experience it getting more noisy as the speed comes down as now the whole bearing casting assembly is rattling around as it's only held by the big spring and the actuating rod underneath the bearing housing and it flops about.
@@samrodian919 Some of these have a snap ring on the back of the pulley that prevents it from coming out of the bearing. It looks like the one in the video did not, but my harbor freight clone does.
An open bearing like that should have some kind of seal and a zerk to lub it. It doesn't look like it is original since my older Jet, the same model has sealed bearing. When that bearing goes it's going to be a mess. Good job, I am a mechanic.
I just wonder what the owner/service manual says about maintenance of the drive. What type of lubrication and how often. I know you should not make speed changes without it running.
I have the Operating manual, and it doesn't have a section on maintenance (the service manual might, but I don't have that). Also, Jet have very good technical support, so they can answer all your questions.
OMG! You forgot to grease the belt! Did you see all that lube splatter on the belt. You need to replace the bearing with a sealed permanently lubricated one.
czcams.com/video/acxU8ItTDUE/video.htmlsi=5zRNm0CkuAOc_GwO&t=146 To remove the belt you must set to the slowest speed first, which you do right, but what you are missing is that after stopping the motor, you must set it to the highest speed to pull the spindle pulleys apart again. That releases the tension which you otherwise must fight.
Great question. The answer to question like that is usually "cost." But in Jet's defense, keep in mind, that lathe was about 16 years old when I got it, and I had it for a year before the problem developed. That's not bad for the design.
Ty for reply. Old stuff made better anyway. I was looking at getting a grizzly 2hp 220v 16x24 but price jumped from $1500 to $1850 because its made in China. I want USA made so I'm looking at Shop Fox lathes now. Want to spend between $800-$1500. What would be your choice in that range. PS I mostly do bowls
A little white lithium on the bearing will help. If you have electric motor oil, would be better. You don't have a seal to keep trash out of your bearing.
I have had Reeves drives on machinery for years , a good , well built one will be trouble free for years . A poor one will be problems every time you turn around , looking at it I think they did everything wrong . But a good Reeves drive costs as much as a new VS lathe
Are you referring to me not replacing the C ring when I was reinstalling everything? Yeah, my bad, but I caught the mistake and replace it. Worked fine when I was finished.
Axminster sell them as replacement parts for one of their variables speed lathes. As lots of manufactures have the same lathe design with the same pulleys this fits most (fits mine a Draper). Not advertised on their website had to call but was only £25 for a single set and delivered next day. Hope this helps
The motor pulleys are the ones that were stuck, if you spray the pulley shafts down with WD-40 and run the speed up and down you will free the pullets up. If you notice the spring is compressed on the motor pulley with no belt on it. If the pulley was loose on the shaft the spring would be extended. Do not pry on the pulleys with any tools or you will break them.
I believe the bearings are sealed, so I don't think your can grease them. I may have tried to spay some dry lube into the bearing, but I don't remember now. Generally in my shop, I use WD40 for cleaning/removing grease, followed by dry lube.
if the bearing makes that crackling sound once you are spinning it is because the bearing needs to be replaced with a new one now, if you are in the middle of a progy and dont have any time to run to the hardware store for a replacenent brng, you can try to remove the brng from the flange and carefully w/ a pick and a small screw driver try to open its outer protective seals then you can re-pack the bearing with (brng) grease NOT oil oil cannot be used on internal high friction components unless is the type of oil used on differentials because of its high volatile properties hypoid oil has been designed on the diferent designs of internal gears; hypoid helicoidal gears are an example for instance, in the case of wd40 lube oil it may be counter productive to use it it perfectly could be used to temporarly softem a squaking belt but not on this application wd40 will wash away any left over protective residues that the original packing grease of the brng originally had and that were left over time (having in mind this situation by its designers) also, and bc of its high volatie properties, oil fumes cause heat, condensation, gases, debris, oxidation & eventually it will demage the moving internal parts on that component for that reason tandem differentials, for exp., have been designed with special accesories that make the whole assembly such as seals, an upper vent valve and internal chambers to accomodate the expanding gases created by friction, heat, inertia and other elements; and provide for optimal mechanical expression of internal components that type of systems use oil instead of grease bc of its application there are many sources about this topic on public libraries, internet & vocational schools & colleges that could provide you with specific information about any topic if you just invest little time on its research in any case, thanks for the video
I don't have the lathe anymore, but if I remember correctly, there were no teeth, just the movable pulleys. But you're right, when all the parts are assembled, the speed lever should only be moved when the machine is running.
Yes, if you follow the sequence of videos I made, you'll get to the point where I have the Jet JWL-1221VS (after I got a Wen and returned it). The Jet is truly a great lathe.
Ive had to do that job twice on my lathe. Different brand, basicslly tge same lathe. I really dislike tge reeves drive system as Ive constantly had problems with it jamming. Ive got to service the *#*@#* thing again...and am thinking of throwing those pulleys out and harvesting a set of pulleys from a cheap.old drill press that will hopefully fit. Then Ill add a cheap speed controller to it for the infrequent times i need to use a slower speed than fixed pulleys can provide. Whoever designed the system should be sh0t.
8 years later, your video has helped me and my team to repair our lathe. Ours is an older discontinued Grizzly model, but the mechanisms are identical. Grizzly tech support was great, but your video helped fill in some gaps. Thank you!
Part of the problem with sliding the pulley off the shaft is that the clip ring will cause slight burring around the slot it slips into. Use a small honing stone or 320-400 wet sandpaper with 3-in-1 oil. Also, replace the belt before sliding on the outer pulley and save yourself some agony.
Enjoyed watching this because you pointed out some areas I had concern for👍🏻
Tip to remove the belt without pinching your pinkies, loop a boot lace around the belt and pull the lace loop while spinning the pulleys.
Just completely disassembled, cleaned, greased and reassembled my Reeves drive by following your video. It’s never been smoother. Thank you very, very much I would never have been able to do it without you.
Very kind words--thanks.
I have a mejix 900 tb couldn’t find any manuals online till your video randomly popped up. I can finally fix it now. The exact same just different name
Great job ! 👍🏻 It’s a good possibility if you took the open dry ball bearing to an industrial bearing shop, it could be replaced with a sealed lifetime lubricated bearing of better quality. I really got a lot out of your video. Thanks 👍🏻
I want to thank you. I was having issues with my grizzly lathe with the Reeves speed control. After watching your video I was able to fix it. Thanks again.
Great Video. I have an old Sears Lathe ( bought new) in which the Reeves drive stopped working. I tore it apart at the time but after a while, I just bought a Powermatic and moved on. The sears lathe is still sitting here. This video has motivated me to open the old lathe back up and try again. Good to know the Tech department recommended Lithium grease. Good Video.
This was just the video I was searching the tube for. I have just bought an old Axminster M900 got it home put the bed on the stand took me a time to wire up as the on / off switch was missing ( all I had was a wire from the motor). When I plugged in all I have is slow speed, the leaver controlling the speed is jammed and won't move so I was desperate to find a vid that showed how the Reeves Drive works.
Thank you for your video I can now go out to the workshop and feel quietly confident and get this thing working. 👍
Very helpful. I noticed my speed seemed off and prompted me to check CZcams videos. I backed up and watched 3 times when I noticed he missed replacing the snap ring. In the end, he figured it out. Thanks for the helpful remedy for my speed change problem.
Thank you! My speed control was frozen. I was in the house if trying to figure it out. When I took the belt off. The speed controls came free! I used my lithium grease, and it’s working now!
A SUPER helpful video. I don't have the same 'Make' of Lathe but on watching video's I have noticed that various makes of lathe are actually the same, so somewhere in the world these lathes are made then stickers are put on them by various manufactures .
You are right about being careful with the pulley halves. They are very easy to damage. My lathe isn't a Jet but it is identical to yours. When my belt broke, I found that the space between the case casting and the pulley was too tight to fit a new belt in without removing the pulley like you did. Unfortunately my pulley would not slide off the end like yours did. While trying to pry it off, the pulley cracked. I discovered that the diameter of the shaft near the end was larger than it was on the rest of the shaft. To put the replacement parts on, I needed to file the area around the c-clip channel to reduce the diameter. I wish I had known how brittle the metal was and the problem with the shaft. I could have used the file first and saved a lot of time and money. Nice video.
Hi
I have a SIP lathe which appears to be identical to this Jet lathe. I had exactly the same issues and exactly the same problem taking it apart but I resolved it in the same way. I wish I’d seen your video first. Great video and very informative. Brilliant job.
Regards,
Andy.
Thanks for taking the time to post this Larry. I just bought an older JWL-1236 (slate gray in color) and was curious how the Reeves drive set-up worked.
Great video. I wish I had seen this BEFORE I worked on my Grizzly lathe. I ended up using a screwdriver to separate the pulleys like you did and SNAP. Broke the pulley. Took me a while to get a replacement. Thanks for not cutting out your oops moments. We all have them.
Did the same thing 😞
Where did you find the pulley's My pulley are broken and I can't find any replacements?
I picked up a samona 12x36 wood lathe, it has the same pulley configuration. thanks for the video I can now pull the pulleys off and lube everything.
wow, thanks for posting this video. Interesting that your lathe is a Jet and mine is an Axminster, cos they are identical in every single way, including the colour. Now I can go fix my lathe as i have been having the exact same problem. Thanks again Debs
Great Job. I have a 14-42 VS Jet I have had to replace the Head stock reeves pulleys . My reeves pulleys for the motor broke today and I now I have to replace it. This is informative video.
Great Video. I appreciate the level of detail. Thanks.
It was useful thanks. I was worried that there is something wrong my used jet lathe because it is so dang loud. After watching a few of this vids, I now know it's just the design. I'll live with that. Still gonna take it apart and clean it up.
I have to tell you that the inner half Reeves pulley on your mainshaft is worn out. It is supposed to be a press fit into the speed control bearing and yours is just sliding in and out of the inner part of the bearing race this is a very common fault on these Reeves pulleys. You said they were an aluminium casting. I wish they were they would last a lot longer. They are in fact a zinc alloy, which you in the States call "Pot Metal" and that is considerably softer than aluminium, thus they wear much faster. Once that pulley is no longer tight in the bearing it just wears away getting looser and much noisier too. The only remedy is a new pulley. I have the same problem and have decided to scrap the whole Reeves speed control system and put on a new 3 phase motor with same size pulleys and a VFD for speed control. I will be able to get down to 35 or so rpm's and up to 3000 and all speeds in between. A far better arrangement I think.
Thanks for the info. I agree with your solution, in fact, so much so, I sold that lathe (a couple years ago) and bought a Jet 1221VS. Absolutely love the variable speed control--use it all the time.
I thought it was odd how that beating just loosely sits in there. I watched again and I see the inner side of that pulley has a part that would be inserted into that bearing. Being loose like that is what was causing a bunch of noise too I bet.
Correct
My harbor freight version has a snap ring on the inner side of that pulley too, I imagine it's to keep it from relying on just the belt to separate the pulleys when the speed is changed.
Changing the belt on my old lathe this week..your vid helped get a better understanding....subbed
Glad it helped
@@knotnowwoodworking yes sir..me too
I have the same lathe but I've never had that same issue. But thankfully, if I ever do I will now know what to do. Thanks!
I have a Delta 46-715 that needs cleaning too it has Reeves pulleys. great vid nice job.
Hey, thanks. Very helpful, now I can sort my problem
I wish I would have watched this first as I have broken the motor pulley so I have had to order a new one, one point my lathe is a Clarke CWL20RV but identical to yours and I cannot get the belt to go over the pulley as there is not enough gap between the lathe housing and the pulley, thanks for an excellent video.
Thanks for this I have an old Delta 46-255 and it's identical to the jet and few others.
Yes,I like your idea, i think I good luck watching you,Thank you for best knowledge,
Thanks! Just what I was looking for. I need to disassemble and lube mine and you showed and explained how. Changing speeds on mine is very difficult. It obviously needs cleaning and lube. Thanks again.
I did that video a while ago--glad it's still helpful.
Video is still right on. Lots of Reeves drives out there. I followed your instructions and got all the way to removing the inner pulley wheel. It is frozen to the shaft big time! I’ve destroyed it in the process. I ordered a replacement. I think I’m going to have to try to grind or cut it off somehow. One thing for sure, that was my problem. Thanks again for the video.
@@jjp95136 He may be missing a snap ring that goes on the inner pulley on the other side of the bearing to keep the pulley from pulling out of the bearing when changing speeds. Without that snap ring you are relying on the belt to push the pulleys apart. I used a 3 jaw puller from Hazard Fraught and stuck the point in the middle of the shaft and the jaws around the speed change bracket thing that the pulley goes into and after some elbow grease I was able to get it off. That's when I noticed the snap ring hidden on the back side of the pulley! Even after I took the ring off I still had to use a drift and pound out the pulley from the bearing though. This seems to be a good design until the moment it gets a speck of dust on it. Which we all know that a lathe will have WAY more than a speck of dust on it!
Still working on it, previous owner destroyed the pulleys and marred up the shaft trying to get it apart, now I am facing lots of sanding to get the shaft smooth enough to accept the new pulleys.
At some point I think I will be trying to acquire a junk tread mill and using the DC motor and speed controller to replace this stupid reeves drive, but for now I just want to get the lathe working again.
i dont knew abaut my lathe...thanks you so much my friend.
Glad my video helped you.
I have an Axminster M950. This looks exactly the same. I have just been doing maintenance, but this was really useful
Thanks for the comment. Glad my video helped.
I have the harbor freight version of this lathe, I bought it used with busted pulleys. The previous owner had started to disassemble it but gut stuck and sold it to me. I found your video very helpful in seeing how the lathe goes back together and how the speed change mechanism operates. The shaft is fairly buggered up and I will need to sand it pretty good to get the new pulleys back on. One important difference is that there is a snap ring on the back of the inner pulley behind the bearing (and maybe some of the Jet models have this too). I did not know this and had to use a puller to remove the bearing assembly, using it to push off the pulley as well (well, what remained of it, the old man had bashed it to bits trying to get it off). You mentioning the collar coming off the shaft leads me to believe that maybe the snap ring on mine was an effort to help make sure that doesn't happen. My shaft seems like it's almost too large I have been sanding it but I can't seem to get the new pulley to fit. I am unsure as to the provenance of the new pulley set, as they came with the lathe, but he did say he bought them from Hazard Fraught's parts hotline. I am working on hooking a face plate to another face plate and seeing if I can get my little mini lathe to turn the shaft so I can sand it faster. This may end in my death.
Good luck. You have your work cut out for you...
@@knotnowwoodworking It's been a week or two but I just wanted to let you know I got it all working! Thanks again for posting your video!
Thanks for this, I need to do it to my lathe.
I had a problem with the same lathe with noise & not shifting into various speeds. I watched your video & decided to tear my JWL 1236 apart. The centrifugal pulley was frozen to the shaft (non-motor side). I had to use heat on it to free it up to slide it off the shaft. I noticed that it was "Galled" on the shaft. The reason this happened is because these are Dis-similar metals" & whoever assembled these lathes should've used anti-seize between those two metals! Debur the pulleys, too. Always, use anti-seize when connecting different metals together or you will experience galling & may need to used heat to separate them in the future. Dissimilar metals cause corrosion!! I removed the shaft, also & those sealed bearings needed replacing. Replacing the belt & 3 bearings was $97.00 through ereplacementparts. You can't service these parts on the lathe so just change them out & you should virtually hear NO Noise when the lathe is running! I have turned over 600 bowls with this lathe & wood purchase another one if necessary.
Fantastic video, thank you!
Glad to see you have a go at something your not sure about. As for that bearing on the speed changer it is bone dry and shot and you do need a new one as it spins too freely and that shows wear on the bearings and inner races plus try to get a bearing that is sealed on both sides as this keeps the bearing grease inside the bearing and the sawdust out. Use a press to change the bearing and check to see if there is an inner circlip holding the bearing in before you try pushing it out.
Thanks for adding to the info. I no longer have that lathe, but there are many people out there that do (or a similar one) and will benefit from your knowledge.
Thanks for the how-to video! I have the same model Jet with the same problem you faced. I was just trying to turn a project and I couldn't adjust the speeds...so after a trip to Harbor Freight to buy a pair of snap ring pliers, I'll tackle the lathe. It's overdue for a good cleaning and lube as well.
If you haven't already, read through the comments on my video--there are some helpful tips from people that know far more than me.
@@knotnowwoodworking, I read a few of the tips and followed the one for using a shoelace to remove the belt... a pretty clever idea. I ended up removing only the front portion of the upper pulley and lubricating the shaft. I couldn't remove the 2nd half of the pulley as it wouldn't budge much, and I didn't want to exert too much force trying to pry it off. I then lubricated the shaft with white lithium grease (I didn't have any graphite dry lubricant on hand). I also lubricated the bottom shaft around the pulley and the spring mechanism which turned out to be the real problem. Long story short, I got it working again, better than before!
@@johnparmenter1122 Congrats!!!!
Good video. I have the Harbor Freight wood lathe that is similar. It makes some noise too. All of the power tools make noise. The Shopsmith is similar too.
Thanks. I hope the video gives you the courage to open up your HF unit and see what's going on.
@ Knot Now Woodworking
FYI, This is apparently an issue with many lathe's which have this variable speed control design, more so the sticking rear pulley on the main Headstock shaft speed control..
I would like to share that in a very similar lathe, the Speed control Level, Bearing and Rear Pulley are actually held together with a cir-clip, ensuring when you try to 'open' the top pulleys, the bearing section does not part from the pulley. Might be worth checking your Rear Pulley to see if there is a grove on the aluminium casting to accept a cir-clip.
There youtube video contains similar content to this one, with the details of the cir-clip as in installed on a Scheppach DMS 900 lathe - search CZcams for "Scheppach DMS 900 (Pulley and bearing replacement)".
See approx 6min40seconds into the video for the cir-clip being reinstalled.
I was advised to use a Dry Lube, as any wet lubricant or grease would only attract fine sawdust and result in a similar sticking pulley issue.
Good Luck with your's.. Mark
The bearing, enclosed in the housing, on the rear pulley, on my similar lathe, has a circlip to keep the bearing in place
Correct, the "shifting lever bracket" that houses that open bearing is supposed to be able to pull the sliding half of the pulley. I agree there is a snap ring missing.
Good job.
If you need a new variable speed pulley, Speed Selector makes pulleys that replace the Reeves, Hi-Lo, TB Woods and Lovejoy pulleys that went out of business or got bought. Most are in stock or Speed Selector will custom make if needed. They have an actual engineering department; very helpful.
I got my lathe second hand....it seized up ,i broke the pulley getting it apart(they are fragile...very)however it works better than ever....cheers
good jab my friend. I like it. I wan it a one
good video
good video Thanks
Can someone please help me, I need a video for a Jet JWL 1442. When the speed is turned up there is vibration, I used the lathe a few weeks ago and it was fine then, the floor is even. This lathe is different to mine.
Have the same lathe and did the same process, but with both sets of pulleys. Works gtreat. Question, For this lathe does anuyone have a sugestión for using a fostner bit with the existing tail stock, or how to Install a morse tapar? TYhank you!
Speed Selector makes variable speed pulleys that replace the Reeves, Hi-Lo and TB Woods pulleys that went out of business or got bought. Most of the pulleys are in stock or Speed Selector will custom make if needed. They have an actual engineering department who were very helpful.
The inside half of the motor pulley on my new 34706 has a clicking noise coming from within the pulley housing. One click per rotation.Not sure is there is something loose inside there or what. Very annoying but otherwise operates fine.
Very informative but now I gotta go do the exact same thing to my 1442 lol
Thank u
When I was having the problem, I looked all over and couldn't find a video on fixing the pulleys, so I jumped in and made my first video. I'm glad it helped you.
I can't believe you got it off in one peice. Mine crumbled in my hands the inside pulley on the arbor should have had a snap ring holding it to the bearing
Use powder graphite on the shafts, you will have no more binding pulleys. I have the same lathe and have not had any problems in years.
hello .. can someone tell me what the length of the belt is in centimeters because mine is cracked and I don't know the dimensions thank you all
Could you change the lowest speed on these by making different sized pulleys?
there are 3 retaining clips on the spindle pully side.. Mainly if you dont put that "snap ring" on the end of the spindle shaft it will push that pulley right off.. Don't ask how I know.
Hi.
I just bought a version of this lathe second hand and in need of a lot of tlc. I need to source parts. Could you advise.
I would check the size of the bearing that squeezes the upper pulley assembly. See if you can find a sealed replacement, or you'll be opening that thing up several times a year to clean it. Also, WD-40 is great stuff, but not ideal for dirty/dusty areas because it causes sawdust to stick.
I find it odd that there is an open bearing in such a dirty environment. I have the same machine but 20-25 years older and it has a closed bearing.
Not to mention that WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. WD = Water Displacement.
I have a Jet 14-42 with this same drive arrangement. Who did you call for support?
Once in a while, tapping just the key can push it back enough the pulley can come off.
Bearings from aftermarket suppliers are cheap, relatively speaking, replace them. Don't gamble. If you can hear a bearing, assume it's dead.
If you're struggling to remove the pulley as KNW was, put lubricant on the shaft and it should slide right off. Also, removing the belt is a lot easier if you remove the outside pulley first, rather than trying it the way he did it.
I just read your comment. Ironically after seeing this video I decided to tear my Harbor Freight (identical Reeves drive) apart because it was nearly impossible to Change speeds. Found that the inner pulley bearing is actually frozen to the shaft. I’ve tried everything to get it off and have destroyed it in the process. The center portion of what remains of the pulley is still frozen to the shaft. I set the lathe up on end so penetrating fluid would gravitate down the shaft. If it isn’t loose tomorrow I’m pulling out the torch. I have a replacement pulley ordered.
2:59 to 8:17 you can see the pulley on the motor stuck in the 'Slow' position. 8:18 it springs closed as it should. Seemed to operate ok though. Worth keeping an eye on
Anyone know the size of that bearing? Mine was starting to get noisy and I greased it, however being that it’s a lathe and lots of dust, I like the idea of a sealed bearing. Bonus points for a part number!
excellent video,thanks.ps.how do I get the lower pulleys off as I noticed a few small cracks on one of them.it's probably time to replace them.
Thanks for your comment. I don't have the lathe anymore so I had to watch the video to see what I said. It looks like you just need to remove the snap ring at the end of the pulley shaft, then remove the spring. You can use a vice-grip to keep the spring compressed while you work on it. If you have any question, call Jet--their support is very good. Hope this helps.
thank you,good advice.
@@dropndeal For the motor pulley, look up part number JWL1236-29 on ereplacmentparts.com. They have everything.
An easier way for belt is turn speed max and it will lessen the tension comes right off
Did your lathe come with a hand wheel on the headstock?
Does this unscrew to the left (normal) or the right (reverse thread)?
It did NOT come with a hand wheel, and this was a real pain when having to turn the work piece with the lathe off. I hated that. I don't have the lathe anymore so I can't check to see which way the thread went.
Muito bom, so não mostrou em detalhe a polia
The motor pulley ratio 'range' is limited by the spring - when it is fully compressed, that's as far as it's going. If you move the inner half out too far, you'll lose some lower end on your speed range. You'll know if it's too far back - the belt should never touch the shaft.
Great tip!
do you know were I find the variable speed pulley for central machinery this lathe have the same sistem like your jet lathe thanks and sorry for my english I hope you help me
Hi Solrac, there is a website called www.ereplacementparts.com that has parts for almost everything. If your lathe uses the exact same JET parts, then the part you're looking for is JWL1236-12 (Spindle Pulley). It seems that they sell the right half but not the left half (JWL1236-14). Maybe they sell the entire thing now as one part number, you'll have to contact the site and find out. Hope this helps.
thank you very much of course is a big help
The pulleys ARE fragile ! broke mine trying to get it off , ordered new one from JET , the number he lists here $ 12 or so .
Can you direct me where I can get the replacement pulleys and drive centre to buy I am from Guyana but currently holidaying in USA will love a Quick feed back dear sir
Sorry, I have no idea where to get the parts.
I have a Jet 1442vs lathe. When I take a deeper cut the belt bellies out and the rpm's slow down. I an even grab the hand wheel and slow the rpm's down. Have replaced the motor pulley but it didn't help. any suggestions?
Good video!
Did you replace the belt too? Does the 1442 adjust the same way that the 1221VS does (that's the lathe I have now)? If so, make sure you have enough tension on the belt. If you can't apply enough tension, may the belt is stretched. I've called Jet on other issues and found them VERY responsive. If you can't fix it, give them a call. I'm sure they will help. Sorry I can't be of more help.
check out the cluch on the rear of the motor
Harris, I think you're talking about the Centrifugal Switch on the fan end of the motor. A problem with that sometimes makes the motor not start after it's turned off unless you turn the spindle by hand. I don't think it would effect the RPMs. William might have a problem with the speed control. I had to replace it on the Wen lathe because I could slow down the motor with my hand.
The problem is that the main shaft Reeves pulley is worn out where it is pressed into the speed control bearing and is loose. When you take a heavy cut it just slides out of the bearing and goes to a slower speed even though the speed lever is still engaged in its notch, you Weill probably experience it getting more noisy as the speed comes down as now the whole bearing casting assembly is rattling around as it's only held by the big spring and the actuating rod underneath the bearing housing and it flops about.
@@samrodian919 Some of these have a snap ring on the back of the pulley that prevents it from coming out of the bearing. It looks like the one in the video did not, but my harbor freight clone does.
An open bearing like that should have some kind of seal and a zerk to lub it. It doesn't look like it is original since my older Jet, the same model has sealed bearing. When that bearing goes it's going to be a mess. Good job, I am a mechanic.
I just wonder what the owner/service manual says about maintenance of the drive. What type of lubrication and how often. I know you should not make speed changes without it running.
I have the Operating manual, and it doesn't have a section on maintenance (the service manual might, but I don't have that). Also, Jet have very good technical support, so they can answer all your questions.
The manual says keep dust free and grease regularly......and thats all!
hello sir, may i know where did you buy these set of CVT?
I didn't buy anything for this repair.
I had a Delta Woodlathe With the same system. I'm not a big fan of it. It seemed very fragile to me.
OMG! You forgot to grease the belt! Did you see all that lube splatter on the belt. You need to replace the bearing with a sealed permanently lubricated one.
czcams.com/video/acxU8ItTDUE/video.htmlsi=5zRNm0CkuAOc_GwO&t=146 To remove the belt you must set to the slowest speed first, which you do right, but what you are missing is that after stopping the motor, you must set it to the highest speed to pull the spindle pulleys apart again. That releases the tension which you otherwise must fight.
you should put some lube in that inner bearing as well. It will quiet it down some.
Wonder why they don't put a sealed bearing on the adjuster ?
Great question. The answer to question like that is usually "cost." But in Jet's defense, keep in mind, that lathe was about 16 years old when I got it, and I had it for a year before the problem developed. That's not bad for the design.
Ty for reply. Old stuff made better anyway. I was looking at getting a grizzly 2hp 220v 16x24 but price jumped from $1500 to $1850 because its made in China. I want USA made so I'm looking at Shop Fox lathes now. Want to spend between $800-$1500. What would be your choice in that range. PS I mostly do bowls
I don't know if there are many USA made lathes to choose from. I ended up with a JET 1221VS and absolutely love it. Alas, it's made in Taiwan.
you for got to put the spring clip back in
He did at first but then did at the end.
Also the motor pulley shouldn't slide in and out freely like that. It is spring loaded and the inside pulley should be locked in place with set screws
grease is a dust magnet, just use wd40 or other thin lubricant
A little white lithium on the bearing will help. If you have electric motor oil, would be better. You don't have a seal to keep trash out of your bearing.
I have had Reeves drives on machinery for years , a good , well built one will be trouble free for years . A poor one will be problems every time you turn around , looking at it I think they did everything wrong . But a good Reeves drive costs as much as a new VS lathe
what the hec you just doing!!! you run the laue without the pulley safe ring installed? youre crazy!!!
Are you referring to me not replacing the C ring when I was reinstalling everything? Yeah, my bad, but I caught the mistake and replace it. Worked fine when I was finished.
This is a harbor freight lathe painted white
There are no replacements if you break one of the pulleys.
Axminster sell them as replacement parts for one of their variables speed lathes. As lots of manufactures have the same lathe design with the same pulleys this fits most (fits mine a Draper). Not advertised on their website had to call but was only £25 for a single set and delivered next day. Hope this helps
WD40 is not a lubricant - it IS a cleaner. You should be using grease.
The motor pulleys are the ones that were stuck, if you spray the pulley shafts down with WD-40 and run the speed up and down you will free the pullets up. If you notice the spring is compressed on the motor pulley with no belt on it. If the pulley was loose on the shaft the spring would be extended. Do not pry on the pulleys with any tools or you will break them.
I should have tried that first (had I thought of it). Thanks.
And yet, the author of this video did indeed pry on the pulleys with a tool, and they did not break.
You took the wrong pulley apart. The problem was with the motor pulley the whole time.
Hi Isaac, I don't think so. Both pulleys were stuck.
Bearings need grease not oil. No wonder it sounds.
I believe the bearings are sealed, so I don't think your can grease them. I may have tried to spay some dry lube into the bearing, but I don't remember now. Generally in my shop, I use WD40 for cleaning/removing grease, followed by dry lube.
if the bearing makes that crackling sound once you are spinning it is because the bearing needs to be replaced with a new one
now, if you are in the middle of a progy and dont have any time to run to the hardware store for a replacenent brng, you can try to remove the brng from the flange and carefully w/ a pick and a small screw driver try to open its outer protective seals
then you can re-pack the bearing with (brng) grease NOT oil
oil cannot be used on internal high friction components unless is the type of oil used on differentials
because of its high volatile properties hypoid oil has been designed on the diferent designs of internal gears; hypoid helicoidal gears are an example
for instance, in the case of wd40 lube oil it may be counter productive to use it
it perfectly could be used to temporarly softem a squaking belt but not on this application
wd40 will wash away any left over protective residues that the original packing grease of the brng originally had and that were left over time (having in mind this situation by its designers)
also, and bc of its high volatie properties, oil fumes cause heat, condensation, gases, debris, oxidation & eventually it will demage the moving internal parts on that component
for that reason tandem differentials, for exp., have been designed with special accesories that make the whole assembly such as seals, an upper vent valve and internal chambers to accomodate the expanding gases created by friction, heat, inertia and other elements; and provide for optimal mechanical expression of internal components
that type of systems use oil instead of grease bc of its application
there are many sources about this topic on public libraries, internet & vocational schools & colleges that could provide you with specific information about any topic if you just invest little time on its research
in any case, thanks for the video
Thanks for your detailed info--I'm sure it will help a lot of people.
Never turn the speed lever without it running, you will strip the teeth
I don't have the lathe anymore, but if I remember correctly, there were no teeth, just the movable pulleys. But you're right, when all the parts are assembled, the speed lever should only be moved when the machine is running.
Did you get a new lathe?
Yes, if you follow the sequence of videos I made, you'll get to the point where I have the Jet JWL-1221VS (after I got a Wen and returned it). The Jet is truly a great lathe.
Ive had to do that job twice on my lathe. Different brand, basicslly tge same lathe. I really dislike tge reeves drive system as Ive constantly had problems with it jamming. Ive got to service the *#*@#* thing again...and am thinking of throwing those pulleys out and harvesting a set of pulleys from a cheap.old drill press that will hopefully fit. Then Ill add a cheap speed controller to it for the infrequent times i need to use a slower speed than fixed pulleys can provide.
Whoever designed the system should be sh0t.
I couldn't agree more. I sold my 1236 and got a Jet JWL-1221VS. MUCH better. Life is good again...
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodglut.