I am sort of an inverter freak too. As proof, I discovered my first "inverter" back in the 1960's @ a garage sale somewhere. They had a 40W full mechanical vibrator iron transformer unit on the table for sale. It was about the size of a soup can and weighed around 4 pounds! I bought it and got it working. I was just a kid at the time and that got me hooked on inverters! I have since gone through more mechanical old-skool inverters and graduated to transistor/iron transformer (one that I built in high school), and in the 90's entered the world of the modern high frequency switch mode units so common today. Your videos' are absolutely fascinating and very informative. I could go on and on about details and things I've discovered playing w/them over the years, but nothing like the tests you put them through! Thanks again for your hard work!
excellent THD video... in our tire factory we have countless amounts of AC motor drive inverters, now they are putting in 30-50 dcv fork-truck inverter chargers. they are burning out the new inverter power-mosfet modules. the inverter company stated you can just hook them up to your 480vac 3phase power no problem, now they are saying you have dirty power, oh really that was brought up before we purchased these inverters... the smart grid with all the inverters online is becoming a harmonic jungle...:/ thanks great video...:) don't go cheap
I tested both the Tiger Claw and the Aims PSW and they can both connect to bonded panels. The battery terminals are also isolated from the outputs on both units. Aims 2000W pure sine vs Tiger Claw 1500W at the same price? I'd give Aims the edge because of the superior efficiency. It also has screw terminals to avoid the need to open the case or use a 'suicide cord'. Despite the lower rating the Tiger Claw is slightly more capable in terms of output power and is better assembled too.
Well, in some cases the efficiency isn't the problem with distorted output waveforms. Any circuit that uses a capacitive dropper as a power supply (like an LED light for example) will consume more power when run at higher frequencies since the impedance of the capacitor decreases. This isn't lost power, the LED will actually glow brighter. But they also won't last very long, since they are run at a higher current than usual. In cases where a capacitive dropper is used to power a microcontroller or something like that it can be especially problematic, since it could fry the microcontroller pretty quickly. Many times a zener diode is used to clamp the voltage. In which case you will be wasting power, as the zener gets hot while trying to pull the voltage down. Since these zener circuits are usually meant to clamp voltage spikes and not constantly to high voltages the zener diode may not live for long either. In well designed circuits, this shouldn't be too much of a problem. Ironically, it's especially problematic when you try to power cheap Chinese products with cheap Chinese inverters. In the case of pure sine wave inverters this usually shouldn't be too much of a problem. But in the case of modified sine wave or even square wave inverters, they give you all kinds of high frequencies with those square wave like corners, which can be problematic. But you know, you just have to know what you're powering and it should be fine.
I think your original testing is flawed. I see one 12 volt battery providing power to the inverter and the cables don't look to be welding cable. My calculations: 1500 watts divided by 90% inverter efficiency divided by 12 volts = 138.9 amps. 1500 / 0.9 / 12 = 138.9 The battery voltage would have been marginal at that load and the inverter was likely struggling to maintain the 104 - 107 volts. You should run the tests again using your 1000AH battery bank and adequate wiring - and a voltmeter on the input terminals of the inverters being tested.
I've never had a refrigerator fail on me, but I do not run them off of modified sine for very long. One mini-fridge had the thermostat fail but the compressor continues to work great.
I think you would like the Tiger Claw better, if you had a bigger battery. 120 amps on a 100 amp hour deep cycle battery is dropping below 10.5 volts. It just doesn't have the head room to maintain regulated output, without clipping. A 500 watt halogen work light would be a better load, for that small battery. Or, you're going to need a bigger battery. At least 400 amp hours, to stay above 11.25 volts at the input terminals at the inverters. That modified sine wave that went square is for the same reason. Its output regulator is doing everything it can, to maintain a regulated RMS output voltage, meaning an incandescent light would stay the same brightness. If there isn't enough headroom, because of battery voltage drop, it goes square. Not the inverters fault, but rather, not enough available current from the battery. A spiral cell, or AGM would be better for this test, than a flooded deep cycle battery. That high capacity bank is why you don't like the inverters you once did. That big battery bank held up the voltage, that little battery can't. I like that harmonic analyzer. All inverters are designed to cut off at about 10 volts, to protect a 6 cell lead acid from over-discharge. too small a battery can fool a large inverter into thinking its discharged, when really, it's just voltage drop.
That's interesting about the fans. This inverter has a rudimentary PWM fan control which will prematurely wear out the fans, but it works well for occasional use. The fans on mine also click and vibrate at lower loads/temps without turning also, but I never compared the fan turn on curve with and without the NG bond. I'm not sure why it would make a difference though...
The SUA1500 is comparable to the Tiger Claw in that it clips the top and bottom of the waveform under heavy load. It also consumes a higher idle draw, cannot do its rated 980W continuously, and is bulky and heavy. It's a quality unit though and it depends on what you're interested in. These inverters cannot perform the duty of a UPS, but the UPS can behave like a standalone inverter.
Excellent video, I learned a lot from this, thanks Knurlgnar (I can barley type that name, let alone say it properly) That Fluke power analyser gives some very useful info. Handy for disproving manufacturers lies on their product specifications! :-)
I noticed those reviews too and cannot confirm or deny those claims. THD of the tiger claw is well within the acceptable range for wall outlet power so it seems like a charger defect to me if true.
I would stay away from Aims unless you highly value efficiency as they are highly efficient. I have not looked at a 'consumer grade' Samlex like the PST series but would expect it to be a good choice so long as 600w is enough. I'd just get the Tiger Claw myself as it is more versatile given the higher wattage. It does have a relatively low efficiency compared with other offerings but has a low idle power draw to make up for some of it.
I haven't looked at how these work in enough detail to know for certain, but I suspect it has something to do with offsets/hysteresis in the control circuitry when the polarity switches. With things like this when you actually sit down to design a product you run into all sorts of little complications to work around, and it's probably not worth the cost to improve this in inexpensive inverters. It is solely an output stage issue caused by the FET control smarts.
Well, most circuits that use an H bridge to turn DC into AC power have a certain dead time where all transistors are off. This is to prevent both sides from being active at the same time for a brief moment while the gate capacitance of the mosfets charges/discharges. When both sides are active, essentially you are shorting the output capacitor. This doesn't necessarily kill the mosfets when the overlap is just very small, but you lose a lot of power to heat, which obviously isn't desirable. And while there are of course always better ways. An easy fix is to just have a sufficiently long dead time.
Are there any Industrial inverters? I have the thought to make such. I am 63 , so DC to AC was done with prime mover ( DC motor,) driving AC gen. The more mass the better. I did work on SCR drives for motors ,fed by AC input, those SCR pucks were rated at 400 amps. These little Inverter boxes are made with too small componets . Some one must make them for Real?
Im glad i watched this, I came across a power bright (msw) inverter at a popular chain store, sales person kept pushing it on me, i told him I can get a cheaper one for the same amount of wattage at Harbor freight (Centech), he mentioned that power bright has a cleaner msw. He explained there are more the steps creating a smoother square wave, unlike others where the wave is more square creating greater noise levels in some appliances such as fans, is this true? Are there cleaner modified sine wave in different brands? I wish I had your fluke 41 to test it, good video Knurlgnar thank for posting
It is very rare that more than 3 steps are used for MSW inverters. (zero, +, and -) PowerBright only uses the 3 steps like most others and it isn't much different than Centech in that regard. Centech isn't a bad brand but PowerBright is generally better for other reasons, one being that they do a pretty good job of maintaining a decent MSW duty cycle at various loads compared to many other brands which means lower total harmonic distortion. Overall though, I think the sales person was mostly just pushing for a commission.
Nice video, but how about if use an EMI filter in the output of Modified sine wave inverters ? Please make another video inverter THD test with EMI filter
EMI filters cannot reduce the harmonics on a modified sine inverter. They work by turning harmonics into heat (recovering only a portion of the energy) and will do almost nothing to improve the waveform. A lossy transformer with capacative filtering would improve the waveform but even that would not turn it into anything resembling a purse sine. You really need hardware that is designed to produce a clean waveform from the start.
If you had a charger with a harmonic power factor corrected input, it would be a good idea, because it would help reduce the voltage drop of the battery. If you use a normal charger with a full wave rectifier, it's going to chop the tops off the sine wave. It would, however work well with the modified sine wave inverters. You would use a much smaller out side load, because you would subtract the power drawn by the charger, from the total desired load.
Maybe try testing a sine wave APC UPS and a modified sine APC UPS, assuming you still have ones that work. I would expect the transformer to clean things up but who knows?
The transformer based modified sine APC UPS units I have seen have poor output characteristics. A standard HF modified sine inverter is more appropriate for most loads. I have also tried adding standard line filters even though theory states that they should not work. They get hot and consume power but otherwise do nothing practical to help.
How does the quality of the power output of your sua1500 compare? Would be interesting to know if that 200 bucks (the 3000 watt is routinely listed for 200 around DC) is better spent on a Craigslist used ups with a dead battery or a purpose inverter.
Power Bright makes good consumer grade stuff but generally costs a bit more. I've only looked at one Cobra in detail and it was OK - not great, but OK. I would say to stay away from Whistler.
que inversor me recomiendas entre, Power Bright, cobra y Whistler? los videos estan excelentes... an investor you recommend between, Power Bright, Cobra and Whistler? the videos are excellent
I'd have to say the Tiger Claw if you don't care too much about efficiency. PowerBright makes a decent 1500W model if you're more concerned about efficiency but it isn't vibration hardened so I would only recommend it for a stationary application.
Sorry for the confusion - I was mistaken in the video and incorrectly stated that it had a live neutral config. It does not and I eventually verified this by directly connecting GND and Neutral together. The Tiger Claw would work for connecting to a bonded neutral panel in an emergency situation but I would recommend an inverter specifically designed for that purpose (with hookup terminals) in a serious install.
many factors. Form factor, corrosion protection, surge performance, voltage consistency, thermal performance, how well it handles various battery voltages, build quality, vibration resistance, radiated emissions, conducted emissions, warranty, support, features, etc, etc
Ive used a 400 watt modified sw. to run an x box and a tv for my son and a laptop for me and to charge my phone . So far it hasn't given me any problems , But then again it is used fo the summer months . Not year round. Is it safe to use it on my lapto and the x box?
MrAgnostic I haven't specifically looked at the xbox, but in general laptops and other appliances that use switching power supplies will work just fine off of MSW. Certain components in the power supplies may run warmer than normal shortening their life somewhat depending on their design, but in general if there are no interference issues a pure sine inverter would give little benefit for those applications.
Poor build quality, performance below what is advertized, aluminum filings inside the unit, circuit boards that weren't cleaned and sourced from the lowest cost manufacturers they could find, hand assembly when machine assembly is the only appropriate method, that I can identify components and modules that are sourceable from shady sellers on eBay, and on and on. I am not afraid to call them complete junk.
now correct me if I'm wrong but from my research the fluke 41 has an input bandwith of only 2.1khz you mentioned in one of you other videos that you other meter has an input bandwith of 100khz witch means that the "ringout" you were seeing was the meter not the inverter and why you didn't see it with the other meter i have an actual 'scope and what i did was hook up an inverter i have and set a digital filter at 2.1khz and the waveform looked exactly like what was on the fluke now my scope has an input bandwith of 100Mhz and with full bandwith it looked like a "clean" modified sinewave so when it comes to bandwith the other meter is better also please get an actual scope this is the one i have and its not to expensive www.amazon.com/Rigol-DS1102E-Oscilloscope-Channels-Sampling/dp/B001VKCJ0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392513225&sr=8-1&keywords=rigol+ds1102e
The BW of a 'scope' is the -3dB point, or 50% of actual magnitude. (Assuming a reputable brand. Chinese brands cannot be trusted) Ringout will always be lower in magnitude on a lower BW oscilloscope than on a higher BW scope. That said I agree, a 'real' scope would be better. Congrats on your scope. Maybe someday I will be able to justify the expense but for now I have been able to use other scopes I have access to but have not been able to film.
Rigol (the brand of my scope) is a chinese brand but a fairly good one i once saw a video of a 100Mhz scope from the same company test up to 174Mhz without going below the -3db point with a digital scope you will also run into problems with sample rate. this looks like ringout but its not and with a really low BW this is what you might see pages.uoregon.edu/emi/14.php
Eman2000 That's pretty impressive if it can measure 174Mhz without hitting the -3dB point. I wonder if they cheated the probe compensation in that test? Just a thought because it can be done to make equipment look better than it really is. Either way I'll likely someday purchase a 'reputable' brand Chinese scope and hope for the best. (crosses fingers)
This was a great video, I have never had the chance to use a power analyzer like that fluke...pretty cool!
I am sort of an inverter freak too. As proof, I discovered my first "inverter" back in the 1960's @ a garage sale somewhere. They had a 40W full mechanical vibrator iron transformer unit on the table for sale. It was about the size of a soup can and weighed around 4 pounds! I bought it and got it working. I was just a kid at the time and that got me hooked on inverters! I have since gone through more mechanical old-skool inverters and graduated to transistor/iron transformer (one that I built in high school), and in the 90's entered the world of the modern high frequency switch mode units so common today. Your videos' are absolutely fascinating and very informative. I could go on and on about details and things I've discovered playing w/them over the years, but nothing like the tests you put them through! Thanks again for your hard work!
Awesome stuff! I've never seen those old style units in person!
excellent THD video... in our tire factory we have countless amounts of AC motor drive inverters, now they are putting in 30-50 dcv fork-truck inverter chargers. they are burning out the new inverter power-mosfet modules. the inverter company stated you can just hook them up to your 480vac 3phase power no problem, now they are saying you have dirty power, oh really that was brought up before we purchased these inverters... the smart grid with all the inverters online is becoming a harmonic jungle...:/ thanks great video...:) don't go cheap
Inductive loads act as low pass filters, which is why you see the THD drop when you plug in the refrigerator.
I tested both the Tiger Claw and the Aims PSW and they can both connect to bonded panels. The battery terminals are also isolated from the outputs on both units.
Aims 2000W pure sine vs Tiger Claw 1500W at the same price? I'd give Aims the edge because of the superior efficiency. It also has screw terminals to avoid the need to open the case or use a 'suicide cord'. Despite the lower rating the Tiger Claw is slightly more capable in terms of output power and is better assembled too.
Well, in some cases the efficiency isn't the problem with distorted output waveforms. Any circuit that uses a capacitive dropper as a power supply (like an LED light for example) will consume more power when run at higher frequencies since the impedance of the capacitor decreases. This isn't lost power, the LED will actually glow brighter. But they also won't last very long, since they are run at a higher current than usual. In cases where a capacitive dropper is used to power a microcontroller or something like that it can be especially problematic, since it could fry the microcontroller pretty quickly. Many times a zener diode is used to clamp the voltage. In which case you will be wasting power, as the zener gets hot while trying to pull the voltage down. Since these zener circuits are usually meant to clamp voltage spikes and not constantly to high voltages the zener diode may not live for long either. In well designed circuits, this shouldn't be too much of a problem. Ironically, it's especially problematic when you try to power cheap Chinese products with cheap Chinese inverters.
In the case of pure sine wave inverters this usually shouldn't be too much of a problem. But in the case of modified sine wave or even square wave inverters, they give you all kinds of high frequencies with those square wave like corners, which can be problematic. But you know, you just have to know what you're powering and it should be fine.
very well explained, thanks..:)
I think your original testing is flawed. I see one 12 volt battery providing power to the inverter and the cables don't look to be welding cable.
My calculations:
1500 watts divided by 90% inverter efficiency divided by 12 volts = 138.9 amps.
1500 / 0.9 / 12 = 138.9
The battery voltage would have been marginal at that load and the inverter was likely struggling to maintain the 104 - 107 volts.
You should run the tests again using your 1000AH battery bank and adequate wiring - and a voltmeter on the input terminals of the inverters being tested.
I mentioned the same thing.
I've never had a refrigerator fail on me, but I do not run them off of modified sine for very long. One mini-fridge had the thermostat fail but the compressor continues to work great.
I think you would like the Tiger Claw better, if you had a bigger battery. 120 amps on a 100 amp hour deep cycle battery is dropping below 10.5 volts. It just doesn't have the head room to maintain regulated output, without clipping. A 500 watt halogen work light would be a better load, for that small battery. Or, you're going to need a bigger battery. At least 400 amp hours, to stay above 11.25 volts at the input terminals at the inverters. That modified sine wave that went square is for the same reason. Its output regulator is doing everything it can, to maintain a regulated RMS output voltage, meaning an incandescent light would stay the same brightness. If there isn't enough headroom, because of battery voltage drop, it goes square. Not the inverters fault, but rather, not enough available current from the battery. A spiral cell, or AGM would be better for this test, than a flooded deep cycle battery. That high capacity bank is why you don't like the inverters you once did. That big battery bank held up the voltage, that little battery can't. I like that harmonic analyzer. All inverters are designed to cut off at about 10 volts, to protect a 6 cell lead acid from over-discharge. too small a battery can fool a large inverter into thinking its discharged, when really, it's just voltage drop.
The small battery and thin power leads were probably causing the low voltage with the 1500w load.
That's interesting about the fans. This inverter has a rudimentary PWM fan control which will prematurely wear out the fans, but it works well for occasional use. The fans on mine also click and vibrate at lower loads/temps without turning also, but I never compared the fan turn on curve with and without the NG bond. I'm not sure why it would make a difference though...
The SUA1500 is comparable to the Tiger Claw in that it clips the top and bottom of the waveform under heavy load. It also consumes a higher idle draw, cannot do its rated 980W continuously, and is bulky and heavy. It's a quality unit though and it depends on what you're interested in. These inverters cannot perform the duty of a UPS, but the UPS can behave like a standalone inverter.
Excellent video, I learned a lot from this, thanks Knurlgnar (I can barley type that name, let alone say it properly)
That Fluke power analyser gives some very useful info. Handy for disproving manufacturers lies on their product specifications! :-)
I noticed those reviews too and cannot confirm or deny those claims. THD of the tiger claw is well within the acceptable range for wall outlet power so it seems like a charger defect to me if true.
I would stay away from Aims unless you highly value efficiency as they are highly efficient. I have not looked at a 'consumer grade' Samlex like the PST series but would expect it to be a good choice so long as 600w is enough. I'd just get the Tiger Claw myself as it is more versatile given the higher wattage. It does have a relatively low efficiency compared with other offerings but has a low idle power draw to make up for some of it.
I haven't looked at how these work in enough detail to know for certain, but I suspect it has something to do with offsets/hysteresis in the control circuitry when the polarity switches. With things like this when you actually sit down to design a product you run into all sorts of little complications to work around, and it's probably not worth the cost to improve this in inexpensive inverters.
It is solely an output stage issue caused by the FET control smarts.
Well, most circuits that use an H bridge to turn DC into AC power have a certain dead time where all transistors are off. This is to prevent both sides from being active at the same time for a brief moment while the gate capacitance of the mosfets charges/discharges. When both sides are active, essentially you are shorting the output capacitor. This doesn't necessarily kill the mosfets when the overlap is just very small, but you lose a lot of power to heat, which obviously isn't desirable. And while there are of course always better ways. An easy fix is to just have a sufficiently long dead time.
Great video, very detailed. Can you make a video of the Energizer 2000 watts modified sine wave inverter?
Are there any Industrial inverters? I have the thought to make such. I am 63 , so DC to AC was done with prime mover ( DC motor,) driving AC gen. The more mass the better. I did work on SCR drives for motors ,fed by AC input, those SCR pucks were rated at 400 amps. These little Inverter boxes are made with too small componets . Some one must make them for Real?
Im glad i watched this, I came across a power bright (msw) inverter at a popular chain store, sales person kept pushing it on me, i told him I can get a cheaper one for the same amount of wattage at Harbor freight (Centech), he mentioned that power bright has a cleaner msw. He explained there are more the steps creating a smoother square wave, unlike others where the wave is more square creating greater noise levels in some appliances such as fans, is this true? Are there cleaner modified sine wave in different brands? I wish I had your fluke 41 to test it, good video Knurlgnar thank for posting
It is very rare that more than 3 steps are used for MSW inverters. (zero, +, and -) PowerBright only uses the 3 steps like most others and it isn't much different than Centech in that regard. Centech isn't a bad brand but PowerBright is generally better for other reasons, one being that they do a pretty good job of maintaining a decent MSW duty cycle at various loads compared to many other brands which means lower total harmonic distortion. Overall though, I think the sales person was mostly just pushing for a commission.
Nice video, but how about if use an EMI filter in the output of Modified sine wave inverters ?
Please make another video inverter THD test with EMI filter
EMI filters cannot reduce the harmonics on a modified sine inverter. They work by turning harmonics into heat (recovering only a portion of the energy) and will do almost nothing to improve the waveform. A lossy transformer with capacative filtering would improve the waveform but even that would not turn it into anything resembling a purse sine. You really need hardware that is designed to produce a clean waveform from the start.
is it possible to connect a charger to recharge the battery you are using for that inverter either pure sine wave or modified sine wave? if not WHY?
If you had a charger with a harmonic power factor corrected input, it would be a good idea, because it would help reduce the voltage drop of the battery. If you use a normal charger with a full wave rectifier, it's going to chop the tops off the sine wave. It would, however work well with the modified sine wave inverters. You would use a much smaller out side load, because you would subtract the power drawn by the charger, from the total desired load.
total harmonic distortion would be a great band name.
Maybe try testing a sine wave APC UPS and a modified sine APC UPS, assuming you still have ones that work. I would expect the transformer to clean things up but who knows?
The transformer based modified sine APC UPS units I have seen have poor output characteristics. A standard HF modified sine inverter is more appropriate for most loads. I have also tried adding standard line filters even though theory states that they should not work. They get hot and consume power but otherwise do nothing practical to help.
How does the quality of the power output of your sua1500 compare? Would be interesting to know if that 200 bucks (the 3000 watt is routinely listed for 200 around DC) is better spent on a Craigslist used ups with a dead battery or a purpose inverter.
What is a good pure sine 3000w that is reasonable in price?
Power Bright makes good consumer grade stuff but generally costs a bit more. I've only looked at one Cobra in detail and it was OK - not great, but OK. I would say to stay away from Whistler.
Do you know how much amps the inverter draw with no load ( idle)
que inversor me recomiendas entre, Power Bright, cobra y Whistler? los videos estan excelentes...
an investor you recommend between, Power Bright, Cobra and Whistler? the videos are excellent
Greetings. Can you test the distortion on a modified sine wave inverter with a 1:1 60hz transformer in the output?
What is your opinion on the Krieger 1100 watts inverter?
Thanks for the Video....
great vid very informant..so what do you think is the best 1500 pure sine wave inverter for reasonable price
I'd have to say the Tiger Claw if you don't care too much about efficiency. PowerBright makes a decent 1500W model if you're more concerned about efficiency but it isn't vibration hardened so I would only recommend it for a stationary application.
is the Tiger Claw still a good budget buy in early 2018?
Sorry for the confusion - I was mistaken in the video and incorrectly stated that it had a live neutral config. It does not and I eventually verified this by directly connecting GND and Neutral together.
The Tiger Claw would work for connecting to a bonded neutral panel in an emergency situation but I would recommend an inverter specifically designed for that purpose (with hookup terminals) in a serious install.
is it best to run the inverter full time or only when needed ?
what really makes the difference, besides price and efficiency.
many factors. Form factor, corrosion protection, surge performance, voltage consistency, thermal performance, how well it handles various battery voltages, build quality, vibration resistance, radiated emissions, conducted emissions, warranty, support, features, etc, etc
Ive used a 400 watt modified sw. to run an x box and a tv for my son and a laptop for me and to charge my phone . So far it hasn't given me any problems , But then again it is used fo the summer months . Not year round. Is it safe to use it on my lapto and the x box?
MrAgnostic
I haven't specifically looked at the xbox, but in general laptops and other appliances that use switching power supplies will work just fine off of MSW. Certain components in the power supplies may run warmer than normal shortening their life somewhat depending on their design, but in general if there are no interference issues a pure sine inverter would give little benefit for those applications.
Hi' Are Powerdrive inverters any good?
I uploaded a video to my channel today that should answer your question.
whats wrong with the aims inverters
Poor build quality, performance below what is advertized, aluminum filings inside the unit, circuit boards that weren't cleaned and sourced from the lowest cost manufacturers they could find, hand assembly when machine assembly is the only appropriate method, that I can identify components and modules that are sourceable from shady sellers on eBay, and on and on. I am not afraid to call them complete junk.
now correct me if I'm wrong but from my research the fluke 41 has an input bandwith of only 2.1khz you mentioned in one of you other videos that you other meter has an input bandwith of 100khz witch means that the "ringout" you were seeing was the meter not the inverter and why you didn't see it with the other meter i have an actual 'scope and what i did was hook up an inverter i have and set a digital filter at 2.1khz and the waveform looked exactly like what was on the fluke now my scope has an input bandwith of 100Mhz and with full bandwith it looked like a "clean" modified sinewave so when it comes to bandwith the other meter is better also please get an actual scope this is the one i have and its not to expensive
www.amazon.com/Rigol-DS1102E-Oscilloscope-Channels-Sampling/dp/B001VKCJ0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1392513225&sr=8-1&keywords=rigol+ds1102e
The BW of a 'scope' is the -3dB point, or 50% of actual magnitude. (Assuming a reputable brand. Chinese brands cannot be trusted) Ringout will always be lower in magnitude on a lower BW oscilloscope than on a higher BW scope.
That said I agree, a 'real' scope would be better. Congrats on your scope. Maybe someday I will be able to justify the expense but for now I have been able to use other scopes I have access to but have not been able to film.
Rigol (the brand of my scope) is a chinese brand but a fairly good one i once saw a video of a 100Mhz scope from the same company test up to 174Mhz without going below the -3db point with a digital scope you will also run into problems with sample rate. this looks like ringout but its not and with a really low BW this is what you might see
pages.uoregon.edu/emi/14.php
Eman2000
That's pretty impressive if it can measure 174Mhz without hitting the -3dB point. I wonder if they cheated the probe compensation in that test? Just a thought because it can be done to make equipment look better than it really is. Either way I'll likely someday purchase a 'reputable' brand Chinese scope and hope for the best. (crosses fingers)
Fellito(espejo=menstruación)