Invisible Increases (Lifted Increases) Three Ways // Technique Tuesday
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- čas přidán 11. 07. 2024
- This video demonstrates three approaches to using mirrored lifted increases that are as close to invisible as any knitted increase can be. The three methods are: mirrored near each selvedge, mirrored on either side of a central vertical panel, and side-by-side (for a double increase).
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Needles used in video demonstration: Chiaogoo dpns
Yarn used in video demonstration: Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun worsted weight wool.
Introduction: 0:00
Lifted Right Increase: 1:46
Lifted Left Increase: 2:56
Lifted increases in purl stitches: 4:46
Increasing outside of a central panel: 6:02
Side by side lifted increases (double increase): 9:09
Advantages/disadvantages: 13:21
If you have questions about this video, or suggestions for future videos, please let me know down in the comments or on social media.
Rox Rocks Ravelry group: www.ravelry.com/groups/rox-rocks
Facebook: / roxknits
Twitter: / roxmpls - Jak na to + styl
I’m new to knitting and to be quite honest, you have the absolute BEST knitting instruction on CZcams! Clear demonstration and explanation, never disappoint!
I’ve been knitting for 30 years and I completely agree with you, her videos are truly a reference for good technique. I always do a little stitch refresher whenever I start a project.
Me too 💯
Really appreciate the explanation of why you are doing what you're doing, rather than just demonstrating a recipe. It helps so much to reinforce the idea of reading one's knitting. Thanks for another excellent resource video!
As long as I won't be able to go and ask my grandma, I will come back to this channel to help me out with my knitting problems. Thank you so much!
Thank you so much. This is the first increase I've tried that doesn't leave me with holes. :)
You are a gifted teacher. Now i understand 'why' the left inc is so different. Fan of your tutorials
I'm so happy to come across this video. It's been a while since I've made a sweater. I just received an 80's pattern book of mainly men's cardigans from a seller on Etsy. I have never been pleased with my sleeve increases doing an M1 at either end. This is a perfect answer. I'll practice a bit before I begin the sleeves. I hope it looks as neat every 6 rows. Thanks Roxanne.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you! Love your last line...”when in doubt, swatch it out”. 😋
Thank you for the tutorial. This makes my knitting look so much neater.
"When in doubt, swatch it out" - love it!
Wonderfully crisp & clear instructions for using the LLI & RLI in a raglan sleeve scenario. I was having such trouble and am so grateful to have found you!
I really like these increases when I don’t want a M1 hole, and I love them for toe up socks, like your other viewers. I remember which is which because I use my right hand needle for the right-leaning increase, and my left hand needle for the other. Thanks for showing what the swatch looks like with the left-leaning ones on the right and vice versa.🥰
Thank you for this video! You have made this L & R slant increase understandable. I especially appreciate the samples you show for various choices of these methods. No more holes! Thanks again!
Thank you so much. I crochet most everything, but I needed to knit some mittens. This will help make my thumbs much tidier.
Great video. Love that you explain the technique from right side and wrong side. Also, that you explain the pros/cons of using it in some situations! Very helpful! Thank you.
Your videos are SO instrucrive, as a newbe I am learning a lot! Thank you!
thank you for showing the double increase! a pattern i'm using transposed the instructions and this sorted me right out.
This is so awesome! I love the way you explain everything clearly. Thank you!!!!
Thanks Roxanne, as ever this is quite informative and clear. I just love your slogan, "When in doubt swatch it out". Great advice ! Gratitude
amazing video, thank you so much for showing this technique!!
Your explanations are soooo clear! Thanks from Argentina
Great video Roxanne! I just learned these last month to avoid getting holes in making tie up socks!! Thanks for sharing all the ways they can be used! 🤗🤗
You always have the answer to my questions ❤️
I love your attention to detail. 🙏🏻❤️
A-freakin-plus. Thank you. This is clear and makes sense and will be forever bookmarked and shared.
What a great technique. Thank you so much.
Thank you for your detailed instructions. They are sooo good! The instructions for the yoke on the sweater I'm working on call for LLI on Row 2. The instruction for R2 starts: "Sl 1, LL1". How do I do this? I have my cast on row, a row of purls and markers, and now am working the right side on Row 2. There is no 2nd row to go to to catch my stitch to be lifted. I'm pretty new to knitting and this will be my 1st knit sweater. Thank you for your kind attention.
So clear. Thank you. I am happy you showed the cables, too.
You are welcome!
Thank you, Roxanne! I'm embarking on a pattern where I don't like the holes from the m1Rs, and based on your video, I'm going to swatch that spot with LLIs and see if that looks better. Your explanations together with your demonstrations are exceptionally helpful.
Great video! I really enjoyed it. I like these technics tuesday :I learn something new or improve my knitting every weeks. Thanks
Thank you so much! Another video that explains a technique really clearly
Thank you for the excellent video. I love your simple explanations to complex issues for me.
Great to hear!
Very thorough.
Amazing sharp needles for bamboo.....just had to mention that.
Thanks very much for this Roxanne. I was part way through a blanket and my hand was beginning to ache a lot because of the increase I was using, per the pattern. I switched to the first one you demonstrated here and it is SO much easier on my hands. And it looks just the same!
thank you very much for your instructions! Stay healthy :)
love the clear instructions!
I always come back to this video, it is really helpful! thank yoou!!
I absolutely love you because you’re a best teacher thank you so very much
Very helpful - Rox always rocks!!
Amazing as usual, I will use these on the 2nd sock I am going to knit. The first sock had holes using the M1P, but the holes werent noticeable on the right side of a knit stitch, but there were holes on the left side of the knit stitch.
This is so helpful! Thank you!!!!
Thank you so much for this video!
oh my goodness thank you so much you saved my life !
Appreciated your instructions 😊
Thanks. Really great. No holes
Hi! I'm currently knitting a pair of cabin socks (2 at a time) on a circular needle with a 60" cable. The suggested way of lifting the bar between stitches to make 1 leaves a bit of an annoying hole. THIS is what I was looking for! Perfect way to make 1 on each side of the heel without leaving any holes, and it makes a really nice looking shaped heel. I'm so glad I found your channel today. Liked & Subscribed. Thank you! ^_^
Very interesting! Thank you so much!
Great explanation! Thanks a lot! ❤️
Brilliant! Thank you
Nice! Wish I had known some of these tricks sooner :)
Thank you!
Very helpful! Thank you!
This is the best increases for stockinett!
Excellent video!!! Thank you so much!!!
You're very welcome!
Very helpful - thank you so much. Ann
Very useful. Thank you.
I just discovered this increase on another video, but couldn’t really see what she was doing. I’m knitting a pair of toe up socks using the Fleegle heel. I think I’ll use this increase instead of M1 on the second sock. Thanks for the great tutorial!
love this
Excellent.
I love this technice . Than You for share .
Thank you!
Awesome thank you ❤️
Excellent! ❤❤
You are A good teacher❤❤❤❤❤❤😂😂😂😂
You are the BEST! Also I love your T-shirt. One day I'd love a video on your knitting books I see behind you :)
I did a whole series of Casual Friday segments on my library a few years back. The first one was in October 2019, season 2, episode 39. If you go to the Casual Friday playlist and start there, you'll be able to see them in order. The segments ran for about 5 or 6 weeks.
Cool! Looking it up then, thanks!@@RoxanneRichardson
hi Roxanne.. love your clear explanations 😊 Could you tell me if when making a skirt, but don't want it too flared, can I knit a few rows after/between an increase row? Many thanks x
Thanks!
You bet!
Ahhhhh…..
I’ve been doing the LLI wrong (not going down TWO rows!) 🤦♀️
Thanks for explaining this.
These invisible lifts are what I prefer to do when a pattern says M1.
Thanks
This was such a great explanation... I'm now gonna tear out my sweaters yolk to do a nicer increase
Hi Roxanne. thanks as always for great explanations not just about techniques but about the architecture of the knit fabric itself.
I'm working on a sweater w/ waist shaping at the sides. Normally I would use M1L/R increases for increasing from the waist to the hips. I really like the look of the lifted increases, but like you mentioned, using stacked lifted increases can decrease vertical stretch. I'm worried about effectively shortening these columns of stitches. It seems that using M1 will cause less shortening of these columns - is that right?
The vertical stretch issue isn't too much of an issue if the increases are, say, every 4 rows/rnds. If they are more frequent, then M1 is typically the better option.
You are totally awesome. Thank you 🌈🌈🌈🌈🌈🦄🌈🌈🌈🌈🌈
I'm currently working on a project where the original stitch is slipped instead of worked. My jury is still out on whether this is an improvement, a disadvantage, or just six of one. It's always fun to try something new, anyway!
Hi. I am really grateful to you for your tuition. When I look at the videos, you never seem to get a hole when you do an increase. I get a small hole, when I do both left and right, but more pronounced with the right. Do you have any tips for stopping this please?
I'm knitting a hat pattern with a K1-r/b increase. The previous row is a K2,P2 rib and the increase starts at the K2 portion. The instructions are as follows: Knit 1 into the row below: Turn the LH needle slightly towards you so that the WS of the work can be seen. Insert RH needle from the top down into the purl stitch that sits below the first stitch on the LH needle. Knit this stitch then knit the stitch on the needle. (1 stitch increased). It seems to me as if this increase is the same as the right lifted increase but described differently. Any thoughts? I'm doing this with 2.5mm needles on a black, sticky yarn. No fun but necessary as was my choice of colors!!!! Thank you for all your videos - most enjoyable and clearly instructive.
Hi, I love your videos Roxanne. I haven't done a sweater in a very long time. I am.practicing a sleeve with some other yarn, but I have a problem. Whichever method I try for increasing on either side, I end up with a hole. What am I doing.wrong? Then I tried doing knit front back on the first and last stitches, but I end up with an ugly bump. I'm quite frustrated. Can you help me? I've looked at some other videos and they have a hole in those increase stitches too.
Great technique! What yarn did you use for the striped socks?
My Ravelry project page for the socks is here: www.ravelry.com/projects/Rox/bright-stripes-socks
That’s an amazing video! Many thanks! Just a doubt: I’m knitting this circular needle sweater in which I must create sts every x sts in one row. But it’s not raglan as such, just a simple circular sweater. Should I use this lifted left leg (hence R leaning) for one st increase without holes? The designer suggests the strand btw sts On the L needle and twisted knit Of it, but it creates holes sometimes.
If you are working in a solid color, this increase could work really well. If you are working stranded colorwork, it is not such a great idea, because you will be distorting the colorwork. M1 increases (knitting the running thread between sts so that it twists) is probably the best increase in this situation. If you are getting eyelet-sized holes, you may be working the lifted running thread without twisting it. Here is a video with some tips for m1 incs: czcams.com/video/4zcB09gF5hM/video.html
So helpful. If I made a mistake and did a lifted increase in the wrong place or forgot one, is it possible to ladder down and fix it, or would I have to unravel back?
You can ladder down.
QUESTION Hello Roxanne, thank you so much for the video, it’s very clarifying. I though have a question and I was wondering if you can help me with this. I’m making a multiple size raglan sweater and I have the raglan increases for the body and for sleeves that have different shaping rates and also each of them have 2 different shaping rates (one more frequent and one less frequent). I often have to increase for one part RS and WS and the other body section just RS or even more random. I used to do my raglan shaping with 0 raglan details and kfb as an increase…so kfb, sm, kfb, which I loved very much for the simplicity and the very minimal look. With different shaping rates it is just a super messy look. Would you have any suggestions on how to make it simple and clean? Or any suggestions to make different shape rates raglan increases? Thank you so so much for your precious knowledge!!!
Does the pattern indicate what type of inc to use? I'd probably use a YO inc and then work it so that it twists closed on the following row. You'd need to decide what direction you'd want them to twist on either side of the central knit st (e.g. twist right before the knit and left after on a RS row, but to the left before and to the right after that seam line column)
@Roxanne Richardson thank you so much for your answer!!! The pattern is mine...I'm trying to write it and I'm trying to figure out how to get a nice raglan line look!😵💫 I took a class for grading my pattern and the teacher taught us to use different raglan shaping rates. The problem with this is that sometimes I have to increase in one side (let say the sleeves) every round, sometimes every three rounds and simultaneously in the other side of the raglan line for the body I have completely different increase rates. So the raglan line that I get is not continuous and even. I don’t know if I can explain myself right. My technique skills are not so advanced so it's very confusing for me understand how to do it!
Hi, thanks very much for this video! It's so clear 😊 I don't knit following a pattern and I'm fairly new to knitting, in stockinette am I supposed to increase on both the knit and purl side, or just one side? I've encountered some issues increasing on both sides so I'm wondering if that's a definite nono or if I've gone wrong elsewhere...
Increases can be done on either side of the fabric (and on both sides, when needed). The increase rate depends on how quickly you need to widen your fabric over the total length you want the increases to span. Depending on how quickly you need to add those sts, you might need to do them every row, every other row, every 4th row, or every 10th row (or anything inbetween). Not all types of increases are suitable when you need to increase every row in the same location. Lifted increases are typically best suited for increase rates that are at least 4 rows apart when placed in the same location, otherwise you lose vertical stretch. This type of increase requires working into a stitch below the row on the needles, which is problematic if you are doing them in sequential rows.
@@RoxanneRichardson Thank you so much for your quick response! This is really helpful, sounds like I need to rethink my increases hahaha, thanks again!
Great video- maybe not the best technique though for raglan increases in the round, when increasing every 2nd round? The M1R/M1L leaves a little gap, especially the M1L after slipping a marker (centre K stitch along raglan between increases).....suggestions?
There are at least three different ways of producing m1 incs. It could be that one of the others would work better for you. The most common method is to lift the running thread and work it so that it twists, but you can also do a YO for a m1L, and then work it through the back on the next round, or a reverse YO (bring the yarn over the needle from the back) and work it through the front on the next round. This will create the same twisted stitch column base, but without borrowing slack from the adjoining sts. (The third method is to use a right twisting or left twisting backwards loop, which creates more slack than a YO.) Or, if the marker seems to interfere with the stitch tension, try using a locking stitch marker on the center stitch, rather than a marker on the needle.
I like those socks do you know what yarn that is? Was it self striping or were you doing the stripes? I wish I had know about this increase for socks. I think that would have made it so much easier instead of trying to remember Right Back Knit in Front , but now I know M1L & R.
This is the project page for the socks: www.ravelry.com/projects/Rox/bright-stripes-socks
Hi Roxanne, Is this another way to do the M1R M1L? I always learned to do these increases by picking up the ladders between the stitches.
This is a different increase than the make 1.
@@RoxanneRichardson thanks, so this has a different effect? What is the effect?
@@knit1924 The way to understand the difference is to knit up a swatch and try different increases and then compare them in your swatch. 🙂
Thank you so much!!! I keep seeing the M1 for invisible increases but when I tried it on my hat, that I'm knitting in the round, I just kept winding up with a hole! Am I doing something wrong?
Which version of m1 are you trying to do? Perhaps this video will help: czcams.com/video/4zcB09gF5hM/video.html
Or, you could try this version: czcams.com/video/x_V6-yKx254/video.html
If you were increasing on either side of the marker as for raglan sleeves, how do you know which direction to lift it?
I have this same question - did you ever figure it out?
@@Emily-lg6rb it seems to be that you do a left leaning increase on the left side of the marker and a right leaning increase on the right side of the marker....I haven’t been able to just “know” which one to use on the outer edges but hey, I’m getting there 🤪
Thank you for such a detailed video! The pattern I'm knitting says to increase by slipping that stitch, not knitting it-----"Slip one stitch as if to purl, then with left needle and coming from behind, pick up the left leg of the stitch in the row below the slipped stitch and knit it through the back loop". Since you are picking up only one stitch below the slipped stitch, does that make a difference in how the increase looks? I looked it up on youtube, but only found one video, so I came specifically to your site where you do not mention it. It's a top down colorwork yoke sweater. I'm starting a comparison swatch now, but wanted to know what you think.
It sounds like your pattern may be using a different increase, if you are slipping the stitch without working it.
@@RoxanneRichardson I never even thought of that! I assumed it was a different way to knit a lifted increase, but you’re absolutely right. It does not say “lifted increase”, it says “invisible increase left”. Thank you so very much. Lesson learned-read carefully and don’t assume anything!!
What if you just wanted an increase that wasn’t left or right ..eg. just increasing along the row a certain amount of stitches?
I wonder the same!
Hi, Thanks for the video.
I was wondering if you know how how to increase a stitch in a stitch or is it called something else? Maybe do a video on it ?Thanks again.
If you're told to increase into a stitch, that's a KFB (knit front back) increase czcams.com/video/fS0CpddNmNQ/video.html
Would you recommend this type of increase when the pattern calls for increasing every stitch by one, thereby doubling the amount of stitches. I just started a sweater that’s going from 78 stitches to 156 stitches. I used the method of one stitch knit twice, front loop and back.
Any advice would be welcome.
If you're doubling the number of sts, the kfb increase (knitting into the front and back of the same st) is typically the way to go. Lifted increases are usually best used in pairs or isolated locations.
Thank you soo much for this but I am stuck on my pattern, it says (k1b,k1) into same stitch then insert L.h, needle into vertical strand between and knit this. Making 3. I can’t quite get the hang of it! Hope you can help. It is a Celtic knit pattern. Thanking you in advance.
The increase you are doing is called the Central Double Increase (CDI). It's included in this video: czcams.com/video/hk5XHFQVFI0/video.html
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you so much I wasn’t sure if the b referred to ‘back’ or ‘below’ thanks again.
is there a better or worse increase when working with size US15 with thick n bulky? I keep getting holes with the lifted strand style which I usually use ok. Have not tried this one but I am into the project and probably shouldn't change now?
Try using a YO on the row before your m1 increase, and then working it through the back on the following row to twist it. It creates the same type of increase, but you get a little more slack in the yarn, which may help to fill things in.
My current pattern is telling me to do the LL1 Left lifted 1st on right side of pattern then the RL1 on left side.the pattern is going outward..does this makes sense or is it done this way also depending on pattern?
The goal is always to mirror the increases, and your pattern is doing that. *How* the designer mirrors the increases can vary, depending on the effect that are looking for. As the knitter, you can change the mirroring if you want. I would suggest working up a couple of swatches to see what the result looks like as it's written in the pattern and compare to how it would look if you reversed the increases.
Hi ! For the right leaning increase in my pattern i need to purl it and it seems to make a hole when i do that - i dont know if im doing it right or not ! Help !
How to change the direction of a project to a diagonal changing colour at the same time?
Knitting the Sweetheart Hat by JoElyn Wheeler made it before no problems. Not the case today I'm on round 13 of the heart pattern and am seriously stuck on the M1 it doesn't say left or right leaning. The pattern is from a book Knitting in the Round House if White Birches. How do I make a M1 and not leave a hole? You're my go to when stuck but my brain is froze 🤷
I'm working on the sleeve of a sweater and the pattern does not specify what kind of increase to use. It says to "increase evenly until you now have X number of stitches on the needles". Would you recommend using these increases and just alternating between RLI and LLI each time an increase is worked? Thank you!
When you have to do mass increases or decreases, there is no need to mirror them (although you certainly can, if you want). Mirroring is typically done in situations where there are a pair of increases in symmetrical locations *and* the increases are repeated over multiple rows, so that they are more obvious, visually. This is a knitter's choice situation, for both the type of increases, as well as their directional lean.
@@RoxanneRichardson So I could just do all RLI and it would be ok?
@@mhughes1137 Yes
@@RoxanneRichardson thank you!
Silly question but would these work in plain garter stitch?
It can be done, but it's not the best choice for garter stitch. I choose which increase to use based on the situation and stitch pattern. A make 1 increase or kfb are usually better choices for garter stitch. I suggest knitting up a garter stitch swatch and comparing different increases to see which one you like best.
I I’m doing k1p1 for 6cm . Now it wants me to do beginning and end of 1st row with k2 knit one 1row (WS ) and EVENLY inc 38 sts 156 sts pls can u show me how to do it pls thanks
That's a good question, but not relevant to this video. I'm happy to answer technique and project questions in my Ravelry group, if you post it there.
What about the L & R increases where you lift the bar between the sts? That seems much more simple.
Every increase method has advantages and disadvantages. It's useful to know more than one method of doing things so that when you are in a situation where your preferred method isn't working well, you can use an alternate method.
That is a M1, and gives you a hole.
Can this be used for M1R and M1L.
Yes, you can use this increase in place of m1 increases.
This is so much easier than m1