Disposal ear plugs work good for keeping the paint out of the bolt holes. If you don’t use them a chase tap will clean them out. Also look up Don Dyer machining on CZcams, he is very knowledgeable about this manufacturer. Turned out great tho man 👍🏻 I went with a 2013 Clausing Metosa C1330s for my home shop. It’s a great machine, but nothing beats a Monarch. I just wish they spun faster. Mine cranks up to 2500 RPM’s and cuts metric and imperial threads, but it’s less than half the weight of yours and the heavy cast body is what makes it cut so good, among other things. Nowadays everything is CNC, I just don’t have the same interest in them. Enjoyed your series on the restoration.
Nice work on the Monarch, you took a lot of pains to get it back in shape. The hole in the top of the tailstock body was typically where the pointer was stored to dip the white lead that lubed the dead center for turning between centers. Back when that lathe was built, dead centers were typical.
As soon as I realized the hole went nowhere I saw the answer pop up on a Facebook group I follow and then on a CZcams channel then Instagram… suddenly it was flooding all my social media. I’ll leave the oil cup there and someday when I’m long gone I can have a laugh when someone oils it and wonders why the oil didn’t go anywhere.
I liked the series but am wondering, why you used so little oil? I watched a couple of restorations, most where deeper with functionality since yours is a bit more on the refurbish side, and all of them got theirs "coated", so each metal part was lubed to prevent rust and go super smooth. I feel you can get it running even better after that, esp. if you get cold winters,...
Now that I've used the a bit I'm finding it does a really good job of lubricating itself with it's oil pumps. My hope was also that fresh paint would protect all the non-oiled surfaces. I'm also really lucky to have a shop that has in-floor heat all winter and a dehumidifier in summer so nothing rusts. Perhaps it's also my point of view - I've spent the last decade putting thousands of hours into my woodworking hobby and all those machines are much more oil-frugal.
All bare metal parts that contact each other should get some oil and the ways, covers, chuck, etc. as well. The paint is on the casting and there is all good, but the rest needs it. That way you prevent wear, rust, pitting,...
Disposal ear plugs work good for keeping the paint out of the bolt holes. If you don’t use them a chase tap will clean them out.
Also look up Don Dyer machining on CZcams, he is very knowledgeable about this manufacturer.
Turned out great tho man 👍🏻
I went with a 2013 Clausing Metosa C1330s for my home shop. It’s a great machine, but nothing beats a Monarch. I just wish they spun faster.
Mine cranks up to 2500 RPM’s and cuts metric and imperial threads, but it’s less than half the weight of yours and the heavy cast body is what makes it cut so good, among other things.
Nowadays everything is CNC, I just don’t have the same interest in them.
Enjoyed your series on the restoration.
Nice work on the Monarch, you took a lot of pains to get it back in shape. The hole in the top of the tailstock body was typically where the pointer was stored to dip the white lead that lubed the dead center for turning between centers. Back when that lathe was built, dead centers were typical.
As soon as I realized the hole went nowhere I saw the answer pop up on a Facebook group I follow and then on a CZcams channel then Instagram… suddenly it was flooding all my social media. I’ll leave the oil cup there and someday when I’m long gone I can have a laugh when someone oils it and wonders why the oil didn’t go anywhere.
Congratulations! You did justice to that great old machine.
Your pride in it is inspiring too.
I enjoyed watching this, thanks for posting.
Great job :)
I liked the series but am wondering, why you used so little oil? I watched a couple of restorations, most where deeper with functionality since yours is a bit more on the refurbish side, and all of them got theirs "coated", so each metal part was lubed to prevent rust and go super smooth. I feel you can get it running even better after that, esp. if you get cold winters,...
Now that I've used the a bit I'm finding it does a really good job of lubricating itself with it's oil pumps. My hope was also that fresh paint would protect all the non-oiled surfaces. I'm also really lucky to have a shop that has in-floor heat all winter and a dehumidifier in summer so nothing rusts. Perhaps it's also my point of view - I've spent the last decade putting thousands of hours into my woodworking hobby and all those machines are much more oil-frugal.
All bare metal parts that contact each other should get some oil and the ways, covers, chuck, etc. as well. The paint is on the casting and there is all good, but the rest needs it. That way you prevent wear, rust, pitting,...