Stopped in at a 2nd store in Japan 25 min before my bus came and found this camera. I clicked on your video and only watched the first 1 minute before buying. Wasn't in the market for film. Trying film never even crossed my mind :,)
Two points please: The battery. The meter has no "off" switch, so if the camera is used with auto-exposure the meter is always on and will run down the battery. The original mercury cells were robust and would last for the year or so before you routinely replaced them, and they were cheap as dirt. Canon's original advise was to put on the lens cap, because the low light level put so much electrical resistance in the meter circuit that the battery was nearly "off". The batteries you could use today aren't cheap, and they do not have the power to be left on all the time. Solution: When the camera is not being used, turn the aperture ring from "A" to any of the numerical f-stop positions. This turn off the meter and saves the battery. The lens. People say it is good, but it is outstanding. It is optically as good or better than any of Canon's normal focal length lenses for its SLR cameras. Canon should have remounted it for the SLR bodies, but never did. Why? Back then, the 40mm focal length was considered a compromise between the "wide" 35mm and the "normal" 50mm lengths. 40mm was relegated to the compact, fixed lens cameras, and few of those had it anyway. Too bad. The only lens which equals it to my knowledge is the 40mm 1.7 on the Olympus RD, offered about the same time and a dead ringer for features with this Canon. The only lens which may better it is the 40mm 2.8 Sonnar on the Rollei 35S/SE, and that remains to be seen.
One of the greatest things about this camera is the awesome lens and the leaf shutter. The leaf shutter means that you can synch your flash at any speed.
The film wind window is actually more helpful rewinding the film. The red lines will stop moving when rewinding is finished. This is helpful mostly I think if you are mid roll and want to switch to another filmstock with intention reloading the roll later. In this situation it will help you from winding the roll all the way back into the canister. I think it's officially called the "Film Transport Window." I do agree this can still be done easily without the window, but maybe with the quick load feature they felt they needed to add some confirmation. Great find btw! I have a ql19 but haven't run into any 17's for a deal yet.
I have 2. My brother gave me 1 along with an AE-1, the other I bought off of Offer Up along with an AE-1 Program and some other accessories for $60. Love my Canons!
This is a really helpful video! I found one of these in my great aunts house a while ago and have never used anything but disposable or digital cameras before, but wanted to try to figure it out. Thanks!
@@DaveMontejano Got a battery for it. Just got to wait for a nice day to take it outside. Need to get some light seal foam starting to fall apart. Dont want any light leak.
On the back mine reads: CANON INC. JAPAN 849xxx. Often I will use a lens hood having open slots. Though it does cover the lower right of the viewfinder, the open slots make it not too intrusive. When focusing it is nice the frame lines adjust as well. These are often referred to as a poor mans' Leica. At one time I had a plethora of Rangefinder cameras, kept the Canonet QL 17 GIII, and Leica IIIf, sold the others. The only problem I have with mine, my fault, I caught the left side of the battery tester on something. Tape holds it tight to the body; yes the test button continues to work. Speaking to the light meter accuracy, I use manual mode. My exposure is based on Sunny 16, or a handheld light meter. When I use A mode it is showing folks it does have a built in light meter. Also, this camera will flash sync though the entire shutter range that tops out at 1/500. Wonderful camera, well worth the cost. Ah yes, replaced the light seals.
Actually the standard ones go for way under $100. Usually CLA’d or the more rarer black one will go from $200-400 (depending on condition). I lucked out on an all black model for $175 which is still a lot but I like my arsenal of rangefinders to be all black when possible.
My camera is a QL17 but without the Giii. hard to find tutorials for that specific camera. It's a 40mm 1.7 as well so this was my best option. I'm just getting into old cameras and your video was the best/most informative video I found! thank you!!
I know this is an old post but your QL17 probably say's made in Japan. The first production was in Japan. Later production was moved to Taiwan and the G III designation was added. I have both versions. As I understand the Optics and several other components were still made in Japan but assembly took place in Taiwan. A lot of people say the G stands for grade up, but is actually 3rd generation. The only difference between the the QL17 and the GIII I can see is the test button swings the metering needle in the viewfinder on the QL17 and there is an LED on the GIII. The Japanese one is just slightly heavier so maybe a little a little more use of plastic. I don't know that for sure, both cameras are otherwise identical and are both great.
Hello. Some users note's, that using movie film (like Kodak Vision, or Fujifilm Eterna) in this camera leads to a breakdown of the film transportation mechanism. Do you have a similar experience or what do you think about it?
Good video, just found one in Tokyo for $70. Great condition. Only difference is the plate on the back of mine just says "Canon INC Japan." Had no idea how to load this guy, so thanks for uploading! Also, what are you doing for the battery? This guy takes mercury batteries, which obviously aren't around now.
Got a random question and cannot seem to get a answer about it. I have one of these and love it but, recently got a cable shutter release and I cannot get it to work at all. Everything else works fine. Any ideas on what this could be?
Hmmm.. well some cable releases are adjustable. Maybe the prong isn’t extending long enough? Otherwise I’d bet something is up with the cable than the camera since everything else is working fine.
Those are flash guide numbers. You used them to match your non-canolite D flash's guide number. Look at page 17 in this manual pdf. www.cameramanuals.org/canon_pdf/canonet_g-iii_17.pdf
Nice video!I honestly was given this camera recently, and I have a question because I haven't ever worked with a film camera. How do you know when to change the light seals?
Niki Oliver if they are pretty badly crumbling I'd change them. Or shoot a roll of cheap film to test the integrity of the light seals. If there are no issues when you develop the film then you are good to go for the time being.
why is it that can't take pictures anywhere? I change the ISO for it to adapt the area but it doesn't take shots? the line is always on red when im aiming, it doesn't make sense a little frustrating
Nice video, I have one that has been in my collection for years, now I want to put some film through it. It needs new seals, where can I get that? Do you have a video on how to replace the light seals? Thanks
Dieter Leath thanks for your comment. I’m planning on doing a video on replacing seals for different types of cameras soon. But if you search this camera name and light seals I’m sure there are other CZcamsrs that will have a video ready and waiting for you.
Hi! My self timer didn't happen to move that way. Is there something wrong? I havent tried with a film yet, just getting started with the camera here. Thanks!
I acquired one of these cheap in what appears as mint condition but I'm having issues & idk if it's my user error or the camera.. S1 plz haaallp me. The snap lever seems to get stuck or something.. Sometimes it works smooth no problem. Idk if it's a setting or what I'm so confused..
LeaderOfWolves I need a little bit more info since your wording is a bit confusing. By snap lever do you mean the curved film advance lever or the shutter button?
Great video! I recently purchased this camera and love it. I found your video extremely helpful, thank you! I noticed you put a roll of kodachrome in, I have an old roll as well but heard you can't get kodachrome film developed anymore. Do you know how this is done or if that true, any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
i accidentally took a few pics without the battery. will it still show when i wanna develop it? or did i just waste a few films?? Thanks for the video!!
Denise Chong you can shoot manually without batteries. You only need batteries for A auto mode. As long as you selected the correct aperture and shutter speed your pictures will come out fine.
I believe some cameras won't allow total exposure control until reaching shot #1. I am curious if your "free" shots before #1 have been successful same as the other shots? (I am referring to you loading film in the dark to get these free exposures) I'm also curious how bright the viewfinder is
If you know how to remove film from any other camera, it is the same. Press the rewind button (bottom right), then rewind the film. Follow the arrow on the rewind handle. If you don’t, the film could be damaged, and you (or whoever develops your film) will have a bad time trying to get it out of the can. Pro tip: If you are comfortable, leave a little film out of the can so that you (or whoever develops your film) has an easier time getting it out of the canister.
How about one for 10 dollars. I'm itching to buy it, it is sold untested, imagine the gamble, but definitely worth it. Fun fact: there are 2 people both selling them for 10 dollars
I got this camera not long ago, and I noticed the aperture ring is stepless. Does that mean I can shoot at any aperture, say 2.1, 11.3 or some other unconventional number if I choose to? Or will it shoot at the nearest "normal" aperture?
Mine it's from Taiwan too, I would like to replace the interior, what's the thickness of the stickie foam that you used? my grandfather gave it to me with a 48mm lens, flash and another thing in like plastic material, I don't really know for what it is but I think that its a "hood.4" its what is says on the bottom. do you know what it is for? Great video! I could understand it all about the camera.
Hello I bought one off of Ebay and I can't quite get the lightmeter to work. Also I just noticed mine is different. on the back I don't have that battery check light thing on mine what does it mean?
@@DaveMontejano The immediately preceding model, nearly identical to this one, did not have the battery check light system. That model is the QL 17 (No G-III)
I've just opened the camera for checking if the film was loaded successfully (havent taken any pics yet, still a new roll), will that damage my whole film roll?
What brand foam do you buy and where do you find it? I'm trying to refurbish some of my old film cameras, and it seems harder and harder to find! Thanks
Katherine Mccaw wiencell makes a proper replacement for this camera with 1.35 voltage px625 battery. But I just use the regular 625 1.5v battery that can be found on amazon. They say there is a difference in readings but all my pictures have come out great while using the light meter in the camera. Thanks for stopping by. Please like and subscribe!
Hello, im going trvelling next week and want something cool and portable that takes nice photos but I am absolutely clueless about cameras - is this one from the 70's? Can i use any film for this camera, and how many photos will it store before i have to change the roll? Sorry if these questions are dumb! Also, do only digital cameras have the screen on the back that enables you to see the photo youve taken? Would appreciate some advice, thanks for the vid!
s am it uses 35mm film. They usually come in 24 or 36 exposures. Meaning you can take 24 or 36 pictures before you run out of film and need to change. Yes only digital cameras have the screen on the back. Thanks for stopping by.
Nice review, I've just picked one up. I read somewhere if you leave it in A mode the battery is constantly on and if you put it onto an aperture setting it turns the camera off? Cheers.
If the timer does not operate when set, advance lever operated to cock the shutter, and the camera aperture control is not on "A", then the timer is stuck. That's not uncommon with all older cameras with a spring driven self-timer in the leaf shutter. The common rule is just to not use these timers on old cameras. Do not push on the setting lever to try to make it work, as that is likely to damage the mechanism. Generally, a full CLA is required to clean the shutter and restore operation, which may cost ore than the cameras is worth to you, at least $100.
Buster Photo Thanks! I don't have a battery in it now so I'm not sure how it works, but the shutter doesn't fire off now when the aperture is set to A. I have to adjust it before it fires. Any idea why this is so?
Abigail Johnson I would put the aperture ring on A. That's the center ring. Then select the shutter speed which would be the black ring. If you are outside in bright light I'd put it on 500. If indoors I would not go under 60. Then let the camera do the rest. "A" is like an automatic mode. Now this all depends on the light meter being in working condition. Put it on A then look through the camera at something bright. Then put your hand over the lens and see if the needle inside is moving. If it is then you should be good to go. Just remember to not leave it on A when not shooting or your battery will run out.
I like the GL17 version better than this Giii because the GL17 is better built quality than the Giii version. (GL17 - Made in Japan / Giii - Made in Taiwan).
I have the same one this guy has however mine is from Japan. The first year they were made in Japan and then they switched to Taiwan. The Japan version is harder to find though.
Yes but if you r intending to actually use it nowadays the Japan version came with a handful of issues that were later improved for the subsequent Taiwan production... The latest the better.
The battery only powers the meter, but without a battery, you have no auto-exposure either. The specified battery is a 1.25 volt mercury cell, #625. Not made for many years. An alkaline 645 is often used, but is a relatively poor choice, as it starts off around 1.55 volts and degrades to lower voltages fairly quickly.. The meter is calibrated by battery voltage. so using a 1.5 volt battery will through it off too much to be useful without other change. People use the Wein cell air-zinc battery, which work the meter okay but has a very short life, a costly option. My personal plan is to add a voltage dropping diode to the battery circuit, then use a silver or lithium 1.5 volt battery to get to 1.35 volts. That requires opening up the camera and a bit of electric surgery, so not happened yet.
Yes, actually you need a mercury 625 battery, but that's illegal now in the US and Europe and probably in other countries too because mercury is toxic. If you buy a Canonet, either there's still a working mercury battery in the camera, or you can find on Google how to use alkaline batteries in the Canonet.
@@BhashitheAbeysinghe These batteries will fit into the camera, but they work at 1.5 volts, not the 1.35 volts of the correct batteries, which are no longer made. The difference in voltage will give erroneous meter readings/exposures. Options for correct voltage are: (1) Wein cell; (2) adapter which alters voltage of 1.5 volt silver oxide cell to 1.35 volts; or (3) internal modification of the meter to work properly with a 1.5 volt battery. If you do not want to use the camera in auto exposure mode, you can use any hand-held meter and manually set the indicated exposure on the camera, no battery required.
Stopped in at a 2nd store in Japan 25 min before my bus came and found this camera. I clicked on your video and only watched the first 1 minute before buying. Wasn't in the market for film. Trying film never even crossed my mind :,)
Two points please:
The battery. The meter has no "off" switch, so if the camera is used with auto-exposure the meter is always on and will run down the battery. The original mercury cells were robust and would last for the year or so before you routinely replaced them, and they were cheap as dirt. Canon's original advise was to put on the lens cap, because the low light level put so much electrical resistance in the meter circuit that the battery was nearly "off". The batteries you could use today aren't cheap, and they do not have the power to be left on all the time. Solution: When the camera is not being used, turn the aperture ring from "A" to any of the numerical f-stop positions. This turn off the meter and saves the battery.
The lens. People say it is good, but it is outstanding. It is optically as good or better than any of Canon's normal focal length lenses for its SLR cameras. Canon should have remounted it for the SLR bodies, but never did. Why? Back then, the 40mm focal length was considered a compromise between the "wide" 35mm and the "normal" 50mm lengths. 40mm was relegated to the compact, fixed lens cameras, and few of those had it anyway. Too bad. The only lens which equals it to my knowledge is the 40mm 1.7 on the Olympus RD, offered about the same time and a dead ringer for features with this Canon. The only lens which may better it is the 40mm 2.8 Sonnar on the Rollei 35S/SE, and that remains to be seen.
Question. Does the Automatic feature require a battery to use and what is the replacement for the old mercury battery?
Just got this at a thrift store in the box for $10 USD!! :) So excited!
How was it?
Yeah! I got one for $25 and it’s perfect haha
Ya kidding. They are $200-$400 on ebay these days.
Alex Swan really? My uncle gave me his camera, flash, with case. Now I have to get some film in it. 😃
I am guessing it was canonet 28 guys, looks very similar and costs 10 bucks.
Damn that thing is in incredible shape! Literally like new.
I ultimately sold this copy but it was a beauty!
One of the greatest things about this camera is the awesome lens and the leaf shutter. The leaf shutter means that you can synch your flash at any speed.
The film wind window is actually more helpful rewinding the film. The red lines will stop moving when rewinding is finished. This is helpful mostly I think if you are mid roll and want to switch to another filmstock with intention reloading the roll later. In this situation it will help you from winding the roll all the way back into the canister. I think it's officially called the "Film Transport Window." I do agree this can still be done easily without the window, but maybe with the quick load feature they felt they needed to add some confirmation. Great find btw! I have a ql19 but haven't run into any 17's for a deal yet.
Thank you. I have one that belonged to my late dad and wasn't sure how to use it. Much appreciated.
moved into a new home and found this camera w/ flash attachment in the garage! cool find definitely picking up this hobby
I have 2. My brother gave me 1 along with an AE-1, the other I bought off of Offer Up along with an AE-1 Program and some other accessories for $60. Love my Canons!
I need this camera in my life!
Their on sell on Letgo.com & OfferUp.com. Their about $100.00. anything lower is a bargain.
Found this camera in a bag of old cameras my sis-in-law gave me! So excited to get it tuned up and start shooting with it. 😍
and how u loading the photo to ur phone or computer?
This is a really helpful video! I found one of these in my great aunts house a while ago and have never used anything but disposable or digital cameras before, but wanted to try to figure it out. Thanks!
I just bought this camera and this really helped a lot! thank you.
This video helped a lot! Just purchased one at a flea market for 50 bucks and I love it. Already on my second roll of film :)
Thank you got exact camera 3-5 months ago at a garage sale barely getting into it.super excited!
I absolutely live the canonet.
I'm looking for a good deal on one of these as I write this.
Justin picked one of these up mint condition for 60 dollars on OfferUp. It was online for almost 6 months. I'm loving it so far!
Just pick one up for 50 today too. It's in mint condition. Excited to shoot it.
Sweet price!! Have fun shooting and thanks for stopping by!
@@DaveMontejano Got a battery for it. Just got to wait for a nice day to take it outside. Need to get some light seal foam starting to fall apart. Dont want any light leak.
On the back mine reads: CANON INC. JAPAN 849xxx.
Often I will use a lens hood having open slots. Though it does cover the lower right of the viewfinder, the open slots make it not too intrusive. When focusing it is nice the frame lines adjust as well.
These are often referred to as a poor mans' Leica. At one time I had a plethora of Rangefinder cameras, kept the Canonet QL 17 GIII, and Leica IIIf, sold the others.
The only problem I have with mine, my fault, I caught the left side of the battery tester on something. Tape holds it tight to the body; yes the test button continues to work.
Speaking to the light meter accuracy, I use manual mode. My exposure is based on Sunny 16, or a handheld light meter. When I use A mode it is showing folks it does have a built in light meter. Also, this camera will flash sync though the entire shutter range that tops out at 1/500.
Wonderful camera, well worth the cost. Ah yes, replaced the light seals.
Ric Donato thanks for your comment and great info!
QL17s are made in Japan. The QL17 GIIIs are made in Taiwan.
Bryan Kam i have the ql 17 gIIIs made in japan
Actually the standard ones go for way under $100. Usually CLA’d or the more rarer black one will go from $200-400 (depending on condition). I lucked out on an all black model for $175 which is still a lot but I like my arsenal of rangefinders to be all black when possible.
great deal for the black enamel, now prices have 📈
Great guide, thanks. Only the first year/batch was made in Japan then the subsecuente years in Taiwan.
Nice overview! Thank you for sharing! I would love to find a deal on the Canon Canonet QL17 GIII!
Nice video, thanks for uploading.
Thank you so much!!! I needed this tutorial
Thanks for sharing, I think this little fella it's going to be my next purchase 😁
My camera is a QL17 but without the Giii. hard to find tutorials for that specific camera. It's a 40mm 1.7 as well so this was my best option. I'm just getting into old cameras and your video was the best/most informative video I found!
thank you!!
Kirsten Fatchett thank you so much Kirsten! Im glad you liked my video.
I know this is an old post but your QL17 probably say's made in Japan. The first production was in Japan. Later production was moved to Taiwan and the G III designation was added. I have both versions. As I understand the Optics and several other components were still made in Japan but assembly took place in Taiwan. A lot of people say the G stands for grade up, but is actually 3rd generation. The only difference between the the QL17 and the GIII I can see is the test button swings the metering needle in the viewfinder on the QL17 and there is an LED on the GIII. The Japanese one is just slightly heavier so maybe a little a little more use of plastic. I don't know that for sure, both cameras are otherwise identical and are both great.
thanks so much for the video. i am having a hard time with the ISO lever changer. can't push it down in order to change it.
I paid a little more for mine, but mine is mint, like new... I love it. solid as a rock
:) Hello! do you have any video tutorial about how can we change the lightseals ?
Just picked one up for $20 yesterday!
Hello.
Some users note's, that using movie film (like Kodak Vision, or Fujifilm Eterna) in this camera leads to a breakdown of the film transportation mechanism. Do you have a similar experience or what do you think about it?
Good video, just found one in Tokyo for $70. Great condition. Only difference is the plate on the back of mine just says "Canon INC Japan." Had no idea how to load this guy, so thanks for uploading! Also, what are you doing for the battery? This guy takes mercury batteries, which obviously aren't around now.
Polaroidon there are modern replacement batteries available. I use a duracel 625a battery. Thanks for watching my video!
Polaroidon the canonets in JAPAN are supposedly made better. Nice find.
I got one for $3 at a thrift store, excellent condition
I just pick this up at Goodwill for $9.99 USD.. Came with the original leather case!
Great video. The only thing you missed was setting the ASA.
Just got one! Someone was selling one locally with original flash for $40!!
I got this at a bootsale in Paris for like £10. The only thing is the woman said she's not sure if it still works or not!!!
Got a random question and cannot seem to get a answer about it. I have one of these and love it but, recently got a cable shutter release and I cannot get it to work at all. Everything else works fine. Any ideas on what this could be?
Hmmm.. well some cable releases are adjustable. Maybe the prong isn’t extending long enough? Otherwise I’d bet something is up with the cable than the camera since everything else is working fine.
What are the 28-20-14 numbers to the right of the "A" on the aperture ring?
Those are flash guide numbers. You used them to match your non-canolite D flash's guide number. Look at page 17 in this manual pdf. www.cameramanuals.org/canon_pdf/canonet_g-iii_17.pdf
Nice video!I honestly was given this camera recently, and I have a question because I haven't ever worked with a film camera. How do you know when to change the light seals?
Niki Oliver if they are pretty badly crumbling I'd change them. Or shoot a roll of cheap film to test the integrity of the light seals. If there are no issues when you develop the film then you are good to go for the time being.
why is it that can't take pictures anywhere? I change the ISO for it to adapt the area but it doesn't take shots? the line is always on red when im aiming, it doesn't make sense a little frustrating
Have you already tried changing the battery?
Nice video, I have one that has been in my collection for years, now I want to put some film through it. It needs new seals, where can I get that? Do you have a video on how to replace the light seals? Thanks
Dieter Leath thanks for your comment. I’m planning on doing a video on replacing seals for different types of cameras soon. But if you search this camera name and light seals I’m sure there are other CZcamsrs that will have a video ready and waiting for you.
Hi! My self timer didn't happen to move that way. Is there something wrong? I havent tried with a film yet, just getting started with the camera here. Thanks!
I acquired one of these cheap in what appears as mint condition but I'm having issues & idk if it's my user error or the camera.. S1 plz haaallp me. The snap lever seems to get stuck or something.. Sometimes it works smooth no problem. Idk if it's a setting or what I'm so confused..
LeaderOfWolves I need a little bit more info since your wording is a bit confusing. By snap lever do you mean the curved film advance lever or the shutter button?
@@DaveMontejano Yes the film advance lever that has the snap button on it!
Great video! I recently purchased this camera and love it. I found your video extremely helpful, thank you! I noticed you put a roll of kodachrome in, I have an old roll as well but heard you can't get kodachrome film developed anymore. Do you know how this is done or if that true, any insight would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
i accidentally took a few pics without the battery. will it still show when i wanna develop it? or did i just waste a few films?? Thanks for the video!!
Denise Chong you can shoot manually without batteries. You only need batteries for A auto mode. As long as you selected the correct aperture and shutter speed your pictures will come out fine.
I believe some cameras won't allow total exposure control until reaching shot #1. I am curious if your "free" shots before #1 have been successful same as the other shots? (I am referring to you loading film in the dark to get these free exposures)
I'm also curious how bright the viewfinder is
Great video!! Will you make a video showing how to remove the film from this camera? I cannot seem to figure it out.
If you know how to remove film from any other camera, it is the same. Press the rewind button (bottom right), then rewind the film. Follow the arrow on the rewind handle. If you don’t, the film could be damaged, and you (or whoever develops your film) will have a bad time trying to get it out of the can.
Pro tip: If you are comfortable, leave a little film out of the can so that you (or whoever develops your film) has an easier time getting it out of the canister.
How about one for 10 dollars. I'm itching to buy it, it is sold untested, imagine the gamble, but definitely worth it.
Fun fact: there are 2 people both selling them for 10 dollars
I got this camera not long ago, and I noticed the aperture ring is stepless. Does that mean I can shoot at any aperture, say 2.1, 11.3 or some other unconventional number if I choose to? Or will it shoot at the nearest "normal" aperture?
Mine it's from Taiwan too, I would like to replace the interior, what's the thickness of the stickie foam that you used? my grandfather gave it to me with a 48mm lens, flash and another thing in like plastic material, I don't really know for what it is but I think that its a "hood.4" its what is says on the bottom. do you know what it is for?
Great video! I could understand it all about the camera.
Prices are usa or Japan....in Europe count in 150at least if in good condition
Fantastic video, Buster. Would you consider making a video about how to unload or rewind the film, safely?
Thank you
Annie Ferguson with this camera?
Yes, I own it and totally ruined an entire roll yesterday trying to figure it out :-(
Annie Ferguson Sure thing Annie. I'll try to upload that tomorrow. Thanks for checking out my video.
what’s the difference between the ql17 giii and the regular ql17? because there’s some cameras that don’t have giii on them.
Hello I bought one off of Ebay and I can't quite get the lightmeter to work. Also I just noticed mine is different. on the back I don't have that battery check light thing on mine what does it mean?
SKYLVRK you might have a different model.
@@DaveMontejano The immediately preceding model, nearly identical to this one, did not have the battery check light system. That model is the QL 17 (No G-III)
Should I get this or Minolta 7sii ?
Where can you get the film? And where do you get the film developed?
I found one in my grandpa’s old boxes. It looks like it needs to be cleaned and small repairs. Any guidance on where to start?
Is it worth to get it repaired?
What battery model does the camera use?
Hi! How do you focus on these rangefinder cameras?
I've just opened the camera for checking if the film was loaded successfully (havent taken any pics yet, still a new roll), will that damage my whole film roll?
No. Only what was moved. Everything inside film canister is ok.
@@DaveMontejano thank you, btw great video
This guy just ... pulled out a roll of Kodachrome
What kind of battery did you use?
What brand foam do you buy and where do you find it? I'm trying to refurbish some of my old film cameras, and it seems harder and harder to find!
Thanks
Chris Campbell it was a sheet of foam I bought at my local Michael’s craft store. It had a sticky adhesive back that made it really easy to place.
Thanks for the quick response!
Hi! Im new to cameras, especially this one. Where can I find batteries for this model?
Katherine Mccaw wiencell makes a proper replacement for this camera with 1.35 voltage px625 battery. But I just use the regular 625 1.5v battery that can be found on amazon. They say there is a difference in readings but all my pictures have come out great while using the light meter in the camera. Thanks for stopping by. Please like and subscribe!
Where to buy battery? Never mind. Found on other question. Great video. Thanks
will the timer work if the battery is dead?
SuperJV4x yes since it’s a mechanical timer.
hi! what batteries are you using? :)
PX625
what the battery do you use?
Where can you buy film?
Hello, im going trvelling next week and want something cool and portable that takes nice photos but I am absolutely clueless about cameras - is this one from the 70's? Can i use any film for this camera, and how many photos will it store before i have to change the roll? Sorry if these questions are dumb!
Also, do only digital cameras have the screen on the back that enables you to see the photo youve taken? Would appreciate some advice, thanks for the vid!
s am it uses 35mm film. They usually come in 24 or 36 exposures. Meaning you can take 24 or 36 pictures before you run out of film and need to change. Yes only digital cameras have the screen on the back. Thanks for stopping by.
Nice review, I've just picked one up. I read somewhere if you leave it in A mode the battery is constantly on and if you put it onto an aperture setting it turns the camera off? Cheers.
Howie Mudge Photography Yes. Leaving it on A will constantly run the light meter and kill the battery.
That's great, thanks for letting me know.
and how do you put the battery in it
Daniel Sosa you slide the battery compartment under the camera and put it in there.
oops just set the timer button like you showed but it doesnt work after pressing the shutter....do i need a battery to make the timer work?
try taking off A mode
If the timer does not operate when set, advance lever operated to cock the shutter, and the camera aperture control is not on "A", then the timer is stuck. That's not uncommon with all older cameras with a spring driven self-timer in the leaf shutter. The common rule is just to not use these timers on old cameras. Do not push on the setting lever to try to make it work, as that is likely to damage the mechanism. Generally, a full CLA is required to clean the shutter and restore operation, which may cost ore than the cameras is worth to you, at least $100.
when will the shutter fire on "Automatic"?
Bryan Kam automatic means that it will choose the settings for you. It will fire when you press the shutter button.
Buster Photo Thanks! I don't have a battery in it now so I'm not sure how it works, but the shutter doesn't fire off now when the aperture is set to A. I have to adjust it before it fires. Any idea why this is so?
Bryan Kam it needs a battery to work on A.
just started shooting on the same camera, what setting for the lens would be best for a beginner? (all the numbers confuse me)
Abigail Johnson I would put the aperture ring on A. That's the center ring. Then select the shutter speed which would be the black ring. If you are outside in bright light I'd put it on 500. If indoors I would not go under 60. Then let the camera do the rest. "A" is like an automatic mode. Now this all depends on the light meter being in working condition. Put it on A then look through the camera at something bright. Then put your hand over the lens and see if the needle inside is moving. If it is then you should be good to go. Just remember to not leave it on A when not shooting or your battery will run out.
Buster Photo thank you so much!
Abigail Johnson no problem. Have fun!
Buster Photo is battery needed for the auto aperture feature?
@@kevingibranr3365 yes.
OK but how do you set the iso?
1:55 mark. Small metal tab on lens.
@@DaveMontejano Thank you!
cancel that question it came loose and cleared the timer, wont touch that again!!!
Just got this camera for under $5 at a thrift store :))
I like the GL17 version better than this Giii because the GL17 is better built quality than the Giii version. (GL17 - Made in Japan / Giii - Made in Taiwan).
I have the same one this guy has however mine is from Japan. The first year they were made in Japan and then they switched to Taiwan. The Japan version is harder to find though.
Yes but if you r intending to actually use it nowadays the Japan version came with a handful of issues that were later improved for the subsequent Taiwan production... The latest the better.
2022 that camera is $299 in the store now
Still $100-$250 here in LA on Offerup, Facebook marketplace, and Craigslist.
is it 35mm film?
jordan2payne3 yes it is.
what battery do you use for this camera??
Megan Peng PX625
hello! What about the batteries?
The battery only powers the meter, but without a battery, you have no auto-exposure either. The specified battery is a 1.25 volt mercury cell, #625. Not made for many years. An alkaline 645 is often used, but is a relatively poor choice, as it starts off around 1.55 volts and degrades to lower voltages fairly quickly.. The meter is calibrated by battery voltage. so using a 1.5 volt battery will through it off too much to be useful without other change. People use the Wein cell air-zinc battery, which work the meter okay but has a very short life, a costly option. My personal plan is to add a voltage dropping diode to the battery circuit, then use a silver or lithium 1.5 volt battery to get to 1.35 volts. That requires opening up the camera and a bit of electric surgery, so not happened yet.
Do you need batteries for this?
Yes, actually you need a mercury 625 battery, but that's illegal now in the US and Europe and probably in other countries too because mercury is toxic. If you buy a Canonet, either there's still a working mercury battery in the camera, or you can find on Google how to use alkaline batteries in the Canonet.
Maite .
Found one in trunk of deceased relative. Battery hard to find to test. Any market now?
I got a pair of PX625A from ebay yesterday, still waiting for them. I think they work with this model
@@BhashitheAbeysinghe These batteries will fit into the camera, but they work at 1.5 volts, not the 1.35 volts of the correct batteries, which are no longer made. The difference in voltage will give erroneous meter readings/exposures. Options for correct voltage are: (1) Wein cell; (2) adapter which alters voltage of 1.5 volt silver oxide cell to 1.35 volts; or (3) internal modification of the meter to work properly with a 1.5 volt battery. If you do not want to use the camera in auto exposure mode, you can use any hand-held meter and manually set the indicated exposure on the camera, no battery required.
From
lmao i got mine in near mint condition for 0$, guess i’m lucky
Sorry. I beat your price. 20 usd at a thrift store.
Under a $100 buy it immediately 🤣
Exactly 💯. It's a bargain under $ 100.00 bucks
LOL..........You sure are cheap worrying about getting an extra shot on a roll of film.
what battery do you use?