Both the DOF and the lowlight capabilities will be affected. The sensor is smallers, therefore, less light. However, being a major M43 proponent - and having set side by side shots with a Leica M10 and a 50mm Leica M mount f1.4 (a 15K combo) and shots with an Olympus EM-1 and a 75mm Navitar f1.3 (less than 2K) side by side making it seamless looking - there is definitely less light that get in a M3/4 sensor. Not even close. I could shoot with the Leica at f1.4, ISO 800 at night and it looked like a flash set-up was being used where nothing but the street lights were being used. But, the practice is different than the theory : it doesn't look like f5.6... it looks like there is more in focus, but the bokeh does look like f2.8. Which to me, is a *major* advantage of M4/3 format : you nail the focus at a wider aperture much more easily than with a full-frame camera or an APS-C. Which means I can go shoot wide open with my Oly 25mm f1.8 on the street and nail the focus 9.5/10 times on my subject - try that with a FF, good damn luck! Also, a M4/3 sensor is actually sharper edge-to-edge. There are less space to cover by the lens. If you use a 16mm lens (3x crop factor), the footage look dangerously sharp. It's insane. I have a 720p upload on the EM-1 mark I, which is known to suffer from soft video issues, shot with my Navitar prime wide-open at f/1.3, looking super-sharp. Now if you pixel-peep, sure. But who are gonna pixel-peel a video??? Nobody. No one is gonna freeze a frame and zoom in. And it's useless to do with photo unless you work as a top pro in advertising and have retouchers working like crazy on your shots - having said that, there is at least one top pro in that field shooting... you guesset it.. Olympus. I love this system because it gives me freedom. The freedom to put on any lens I want, even one designed for a security camera from the 70's. I love that, and for this reason, I'm a M4/3 person for life!
@@jas_bataille > Both the DOF and the lowlight capabilities will be affected. The sensor is smallers, therefore, less light. That's on the sensor. But f/2.8 is the same light as f/2.8 in a FF camera.
@@jas_bataille The comparison could be slightly flawed since photo lenses measure in f stops. I suppose if you use cinema lenses, a T1.5 would result in exactly the same exposure on either cameras, ignoring DoF.
Excellent! I saved for the metabones and don't regret it for a second. Low light now looks supreme, esp vid where I was hoping. f 1.3 now. Highly recommend.
Well yes, but actually no. The "brightness" the lens delivers is not lower, but on a smaller surface which results in worse low light performance. If you use a speedbooster you concentrate all of the light to this surface (pf the M4/3 Sensor) so the image gets brighter
Hey get the Viltrox EF-MFT smart adapter as well. This will allow you to get both the boosted 26-50mm f2.5 as well as the 36-70mm f3.6 focal lengths. A constant f3.6 at those ranges are very good still, those focal lengths are generally for narrative and subject focused shots and they need to be properly lit anyway.
Thank you Matt! I recently got the regular adaptor (without electronics) to get the 36-70 focal length and it looks great. Downside of getting the "non-smart" adaptor is that the aperture is always opened up to the widest (f3.6 equivalent) but fortunately the Sigma looks crrrrisp even wide open :)
It vignettes because the lens was designed for APS-C (that's the "DC" part of the name) with a 1.62 crop factor, giving it an "effective" FF 29.1mm at full wide. Your MFT camera has a 2.0 crop factor but then you are throwing a .71 on to that. Running the math, your effective focal length (full frame equivalent) is 25.6mm. Which is wider than the lens was designed for! So it vignettes somewhat when it is full wide. You would be better off (IMHO) running with a simple adapter not a speed reducer. This foregoes the speed boost obviously, but runs the lens closer to it's design specs and removes a potentially problematic additional optical element. This would give you a 36-70mm effective focal range, a very useful range, and a still very fast f1.8
The speedbooster isn't improving low-light capability as you're saying. It allows you to "drop your aperture" another stop. Basically, your 2.8 lens on a m4/3 is still 2.8 in terms of light. Not a 5.6 as you're saying it would be.
That's right. My mistake! It's 5.6 in terms of shallow depth of field. The speedbooster allows me to use a 1.8 zoom lens like the Sigma on my m4/3 camera, and also drops my aperture. So yes it does improve my low light capability. Native zoom lenses generally don't drop further than 2.8. Unless you're willing to spend almost two grand on the Panasonic 10-25mm f1.7. It's comparable to this Sigma combo but at double the price and from the comparison videos on CZcams, the Sigma still delivers better image quality 👍 Cheers brother thanks for watching!
Just to he clear, when you stated that the boosted Sigma f1.8 goes to f1.2, you actually are getting f2.4 at the end of the day on your MFT 2.0x crop factor camera. Better than f3.6 with no Speedbooster.
Jon Bear Thank you! My latest video was filmed with this lens. But I am considering returning it as I make ASMR videos, and the lens is awfully loud when it is autofocusing. It is such a great lens, if only the autofocus was quieter.
@@AlexAuAsmr That's unfortunate! I regrettably forgot to mention autofocus since I don't use it. You could try putting it into manual, and set your focus ahead of time.
I wish Sigma also made a DC (APS-C version like the 18-35mm) that covered somewhere between 35-90mm at f1.8 also. They have a 24-70mm f2.8 DG (full frame version), but you would need to buy another adapter for the full frame lens and then you wouldn't be getting any better focal ranges or depth of field over the 18-35mm DC lens.
I am using it now 100% of the time on my rigged BMPCC4K now. Years after making this video. Still don't understand why people comment that it isn't good. It's seriously great. Just needs adjusting
Im heading to Japan in 3 weeks and was curious if you still feel great about this lens. I've got the voigtlander which is 17.5mm at f0.95 but it doesnt zoom and so I just want something that can zoom a bit. Going to check more about your channel now. Thanks for the vid.
That's fantastic Stewart! Please share any videos you make in the group I would love to see it! What type of video are you intending to make with this gear?
crop factor has no effect on exposure or the effective f/ratio of a lens. it’s still an f/2.8 lens and will have the same exposure (at the same ISO and shutter speed) as any other camera. What changes is the effective depth of field, not because of the sensor size, but because of the changes in either focal length or subject distance that are necessary to get the same composition as a full frame sensor
Oh man now I want some of that SIGMA action also as I use that 12-35mm quite a bit. But hey great video, loved the quick pace and fast cuts. Keep it up bro!
The 12-35 if so good though! These two lenses measure up quite well. If you're shooting at daytime and don't care about bokeh, 12-35 is the winner. Both are sharp as heck but the 12-35 has focal range equivalent of 24-70, while sigma speedbooster gets the equivalent of 26-50mm.
Hi Jon, I am not sure of what you said: "In MFT F/2.8 equals to F/5.6". Light is light. It is true that there is a crop factor of 2x and impacts Aperture focal length (in milimeters) and also bokeh. But I don't have clear that you can apply this also to light. I think that a 1.4 lens, is the same in all the systems. Not sure. Am I wrong?
Yes you are right! The 2x conversion for MFT applies to crop and depth of field. So to get a 2.8 equivalent depth of field on MFT you'd need 1.4. But Light has nothing to do with it. However as smaller sensors, MFT tends to need more light in general. Sorry for the confusion! I posted a correction in the description and others also pointed out my blunder. Thanks again for watching!
Hey, Jon thy for your video since I don't have much experience with advanced cameras I have a Lumix FZ1000 :D, I hope you can help me out. I want to shoot training videos and cooking in a normal lighted kitchen with maybe 2 cheap softbox lights like 75W light bulbs. Until now I did not buy a good light like gordox (if i have to i would buy it ) because I don't see myself setting up a studio in a commercial gym or something (some cases cant be done with setting things up) , so I need something good for shooting in low light but what is low light is low light night :D or is low light a normal lit commercial gym or a bit lighted kitchen? I am very confused about what I would need to make good-looking videos. Do I need the GH5s or would the GH5 be sufficient with the speed booster and this fast lens? Because I am also gonna travel ( i hope so ;D ) and well taking a gimbal with me is something I would do but if the gh5 could do the stuff I want I would buy rather the allrounder. Well, I hope you find the time for reading and answering me thy in advance :)
For me the GH5 is a fantastic all-arounder. It takes fantastic photographs and videos and is stabilized so it's still my main travel camera. For client work I use a blackmagic 4k as my main camera, but the GH5 is still so so good and I use it as my B camera and the image matches the Blackmagic really well. Using this setup you will have your low light videography covered. This lens is a bit heavy for travel but I still use it all over the world on my travels and never regret bringing it. The only downside is that the autofocus does not work well with the adapter when filming video. If you have extra money, you could always get a pricier SONY full frame like A7SIII which makes any low light setting look bright
@@JonBear thy for your response i saw some stuff about the bmc4k and now I am completely confused :D i am looking into that now a bit stabilization for handheld wouldn't be that bad, my search goes on ^^.. sony would be nice but i don't have infinite money :'(
are you using manual focus when you filming? I really love GH5 with this lens and I am using but the only thing I hate is that the auto focusing is not that smooth. The auto focus changing very smoothly when I use Panasonic lens line cinematic. But this lens auto focus is not like that. so.. I am using manual focus but sometimes it is out of focus....
Hey bro! Sorry for the late reply. Yes I only shoot manual with the Sigma. If I need autofocus I use native lenses. But usually I don't, I just enjoy manual focus. Make sure to set it so that the screen zooms in when focusing so that you can fine tune it. Using the viewfinder also helps. Finally I'd put the focus peaking at max so that all edges in focus light up
Dude! I'm SO glad I found this video. It was entertaining and informative - I learned a lot in 8+ minutes. Okay, I can't believe I'm about to say this, but I do not have a Facebook account, but now I'm considering getting one to join your community - I think I need the type of collaboration you mentioned. Thx!
Thank you so much Gerald! It means a ton! I agree with facebook I am not a huge fan but it is extremely useful for finding active communities. As for camera groups, you can also find communities on other sites. Reddit also has great groups although Reddit tends to be more anonymous.
I have been seriously consider purchasing in the Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Summilux 10-25mm f/1.7 ASPH which DP Review and others professional sites have ll said the Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Summilux 10-25mm f/1.7 ASPH covers 3 lens which includes the 18-35 (great lens I have heard) and two others. The price in very expensive but i guess if you now have 3 lens in one it works out to be a deal. HAVE YOU USED THIS LENS YET? If yes I would love t o hear your thoughts on it. If you live in Dubai my guess it is quite over priced there since I was there recently. Hoping you will reply to my message. Keep putting out great content, looking forward to seeing more. Thank You. G
I feel ashamed to have not noticed your comment earlier! I have really wanted to try out the 10-25 f1.7, it really is the dream lens. However after I saw Gerald Undone compare the sigma to it, I decided to pick up the sigma. They're very very similar but the sigma with speedbooster is much cheaper and it means I can buy other EF lenses for my camera! If price wasn't a factor I'd probably have gotten it over the Sigma. Garfield thank you so much for the comment. I just made a video comparing the Sigma with the Panasonic 12-35 f2.8, and people asked me why I didn't compare the 10-25 instead haha
You multiplied aperture of M4/3 lens by crop factor and converted 2.8 to 5.6 , But you didn’t consider crop factor of Sigma which is made for aps C . So I think just to compare if 2.8 becomes 5.6 for M4/3 systems , sigmas 1.8 should become 1.8 x 1.5 x 0.71 which is approx 2.0
The correct calculation is actually 1.8 (lens F stop) x 2 (MFT crop factor) x 0.71 (adapter focal reducer) = F2.556 (Full frame equivalent); just because it's an APSC lens, doesn't mean you crop by 1.5, it still has a MFT sensor, so the crop in the calculation is still 2. Hope this clears things up.
Are you or anyone else having problems with the Viltrox speedbooster or adapter with the GH5? I have the GH5s and the Viltrox EF-M2 and I can't turn on IBIS. It's greyed out and won't let me alter it. I've tried the newest firmware upgrade for Viltrox (3.5) and also downgrading it to 2.3. It was 3.2 when I first got it. Frustrating as hell. Doesn't matter if I'm using the Sigma 18-35 or my canon 50mm lens.
@@JonBear eff. I think you're right. I just purchased it and didn't figure it would have LESS features. I knew that it had dual ISO and so would be much better for low light. But yeah, that really makes the Sigma 18-35 a liability on the GH5s. It means a gimbal becomes almost a requirement. I'm going to have to do some testing with a shoulder rig to see how bouncy it is. Without IBIS, why not just the Blackmagic?
Oooff yeah man listing the Ibis in the menu is kinda mean of them. Yes I use a Blackmagic too and got it instead of a GH5S. Gh5 is still my run and gun main camera. Lots of pros prefer not having ibis. Sometimes it introduces a lot of wobbly warpy image. GH5S also has v-log and better dynamic range so it's definitely a more professional tool
Nice video man! In mother before I saw that the EFS Mount doesn’t work with the efM2 adaptor unless you manually customise it. I don’t know what that means! And I don’t want to break it! Did you just put the lines straight on the adapter and on to the GH5 or did you need to do anything to the lense? Thanks man 🙌🏾
viltrox is blurry af, you should get metabones if anything, but i think native MFT primes are probably the best, sigma has best wide open sharpness and slow / better video AF, panasonic leica has sharpest quality but only in the center at wide open (ex tele mode probably best). use dxomark sharpness field map and imaging resource graph sliders
You're right on all points. Except viltrox is only slightly blurry in corners and the price difference is notable. Granted metabones is recommended for any work with a budget.
Hey budy what a great channel love it ... Subed and the bell on . Just bought me the gh5 with the viltrox .. I want also a good inifinty focus as i do astrophotography , curious 8n hiw you did that rotating the glass thing 🤔🥴
Super appreciate it brother! Made my day 😁 I'm actually going to be doing astrophotography and Northern lights shoot tonight with this lens! For the viltrox, if you're unable to get infinity, then try turning the glass on the adapter. It screws in, so you might need to screw it deeper in. Just be careful and don't screw too deep. It can get stuck
Hi, thanks so much for your replies, at 5:36 you mention having to rotate the glass in the Viltrox to get it to work. Did you have to use any tools to do this please?
@@JonBear Hi sorry to bother you again about this but can you tell did if the rotation of the glass in the viltrox make your sigma 18-35 par focal please? As I saw on a Geral Undone video that he used a small screwdriver and made a little adjustment on the viltrox that made his sigma 18-35 par focal.
@@jbaldsing hey bro! Nope, that's an issue in the lens. No matter what mount you use, you're gonna need to adjust focus after you zoom. When I rotated the glass in viltrox, it helped me get infinity focus. I found a video showing how to do it on CZcams. Cheers brother! Hope to see some awesome videos from you
@@JonBear thank again for your helpful replies bro! I'm going to try to get my hands on the sigma usb dock to update this lenses firmware to see what that does too! Will let you know what happens!
@@JonBear I think most GH5 users would agree its less than ideal. If they could get it to be a bit more reliable I think it would be the PERFECT camera. Great video though!
@@ChaseTheSummit Fair point brother! Personally I have never used a camera where the AF was good enough that I'd rely on it. For casual vlogging situations in daylight I found GH5 AF sufficient. I cannot imagine any other situations where I'd use it.
Haha yeah I get that. I own the A7III and the GH5 so I'm spoiled with seeing how good Sony can be. It locks on and stays locked on, great for talking head type stuff. The GH5 is unusable for the most part unless I lock off in AFS mode. Good video though, keep up the good work! Surprised you dont have more subs!
@@ChaseTheSummit That's awesome to hear! Never tried A7iii. Appreciate it bro! I don't need a ton of subs, but it means alot to me when people like you to watch and comment 👍 thank you 🙏
mine just died on me as well, lens firmware says -.- on my gh5 and when I try updating it doesn't do anything. Won't let me take photos or video with the shutter button when attached. Torn between buying another viltrox or just shelling out and buying the metabones
Hi I’m a Sony shooter and thinking about getting gh5 or bmpcc4k But gh5 kinda worries me in the low light becuese it’s my main shooting style If you had to pick gh5 or bmpcc4k which one would you go for
GH5 is still my preferred run-n-gun camera because of the ibis. It gets insanely stable shots. But if low light is a priority then BMPCC4K is way better. Depends on your style really. In the end fast lenses matter more than how good cameras are in low light so either way you'd do pretty good with a GH5 at f1.8 or lower and cap your ISO at 3200
"let me do the math" The technician in me in 0.5 seconds : 5.6 ... You don't need to really do the maths tho. Apertures are always the same from one lens to the next. You just go "what is closest the aperture closest to 2x 2.8?" = 5.6 OR... 2x2 = 4; 8+8 = 16; divide 16 by ten... 5.6 P.S. : You're gonna confuse the hell out of beginners by calling a normal focal length a "super wide" lens... it's super-fast, not super-wide. In fact, wide angle primes are slower than normal or telephoto ones. No mean to be disrespectful, but you got a bunch of newcomers totally what-the-fucked :P
@@RonBilevich I would love to see some videos you've made with the 25mm. What would the 42.5mm be used for? It's almost a telephoto at that point. I own the Kamlan 50mm f1.1 and I don't see many instances I would use it.
It works fantastic with photos! Fast and does burst shots with ease. With videos, tap to focus works fantastic. But keep the camera in manual, and put the switch on the lens to Auto
@@JonBear my main issue I will use it a lot on a gimbal for video. I often work now on my gimbal with tap auto focus and move in to focus. However sometimes for fast moving subjects like animals or focus transition I really like to have AF as an option. I saw gh5 has a focus transition option but I doubt its useable on a gimbal? The gh5 is like the perfect camera but the af with sigma 18-35mm holds me a bit off. Does the gh5 have any other features to make it work for my goals?
@@NigelAquascaping there are servo motors to do rack focusing on gimbal although I don't use em myself. A friend of mine does a ton of gimbal work with fully manual cine lenses and uses motors to focus
Hi Jon, I wanted to ask you a question, the autofocus works with the sigma 18-35 + viltrox and this lens has internal stabilization, thank you very much
Hey Jesus! Tap to focus works all the time but auto focus during recording does not work. This lens does not have internal stabilization but when combined with gh5 its super stable 👍hope that answers your question
@@JonBear Thanks for the quick response, I liked this lens because of the brightness, but I think I prefer 12-35 f2.8 II and 10-25 f1.7 of panasonic zoom and 42.5mm f1 .2 nocticron fixed, thanks friend
@@jesusgarciaencuentra6001 The sigma is actually very similar to the 10-25 f1.7! Both in focal range and aperture. If you can afford it, go with the 10-25. If you wanna save yourself 800 bucks, go with the sigma speedbooster combo. I still use the 12-35 f2.8 sometimes. It's small and insanely sharp. Pretty much perfect as long as you don't bring it into low light situations. I also find the bokeh from f2.8 to be sufficient and realistic
@@JonBear Again with you Jon, the problem I have is that if I don't have autofocus and I'm working with the dual air wench, I can't handle the focus ring, that's why I needed autofocus, thanks if you want to tell me something else here I am, greetings
Autofocus for video is really not great and it makes a ton of sound. However, if you have manual focus on, the "tap to focus" function is still fast and reliable. I map it to one of my free buttons. Really recommend that! For photos, the autofocus is stellar 👍👍 So to answer your question, Yes 😁
LUMIX G...85 ✅ Viltrox Speedbooster ✅ Sigma 18-35mm ⚠️ pending Cool video, I just hit subscribe. Your content and personality are great, I myself is on the hunt for that 1000k subscribers, so here’s to getting there. 😉
Hey bro! This comment completely slipped by me, replying a little late! The 85 is a fantastic camera. I am glad you're investing in a great lens. The Lens is what ups your game, not the camera body, and lenses don't age much - hence they have great resale value. Hope you're still hustling! You'll hit that 1k subs! I've been putting out random content for years and finally settled on the creative entrepreneur niche.
how's the AF performance tho? Is it as good as native lenses? cuz I've heard somewhere that combination of different brands of body and lens mess up the auto focus making it almost unusable.
You're right. The continuous auto focus is garbage. Lens also makes a lot of noise. However, for "tap to focus" it's amazingly quick. So I shoot in manual. Got tap to focus mapped on one of my spare buttons. Also for photos, AF is fast and reliable. Basically it's only unusable while recording a video, but most panasonic cameras have unreliable AF during recording so you're not losing a lot.
It's a fantastic combo and you will surely be impressed! The GH5s has really good low light capability. The GH5 has really bad low light capability. The reason for this is the dual ISO - meaning that the GH5s is able to increase ISO substantially without any noise. The GH5s also has superior qualities in other areas such as colors and it comes with V-Log built in. The only downside of the GH5s is that it does not have IBIS (in body stabilization). But in my opinion Ibis is a little overrated and it often turns out wobbly so I wouldn't rely on it professionally either way. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
Good question! You can find youtube videos on it. Basically the glass element inside the viltrox is screwed in. Sometimes you may need to screw it in deeper. Depends on your unit. Hope that helps!
Hey Jon, i was here about a month ago asking questions on lenses, i finally figured out i think that my first combo will be the sigma 18-35 with a speedbooster. Now my second question would be that do you think a Nikon 18-35 sigma with a NF to MFT XL.64 metabones for my Gh5 would be a decent combo? I know most people purchase the EF to MFT adapter with a sigma canon 18-35. The reason i ask this is because apparently the nikon lenses and speedboosters dont communicate electronically therefor you lose AF and IS when using them on the gh5. Would it matter since i will only be shooting video ? thank you sir!
Honestly I use Manual focus most of the time. For video it's absolutely fine, you'll barely notice it. The only drawback I can think of is that you need to adjust aperture physically on the speedbooster since the lens itself doesn't have an aperture ring. The camera also won't be able to tell you what aperture you're using. If you get a good deal on it I say go for it!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would just want to point out that a lot of video cameras accept or can adapt to EF mount lenses. Prior to the Z system, you would never hear "NIkon" and "video" in the same sentence. So I've actually not seen or heard anyone adapt F mount lenses on video cameras that often. In that sense, the EF version would be a better investment. Even if you decide to buy expensive cinema cameras in future, or if you get a Canon cinema camera it'll still be usable.
Yes you are correct! The UI however will say 1.2. And like others have pointed out, the light will still be 1.2 on micro four thirds. Only depth of field and focal range equivalent will be 2.5 😁
dude f/2.8 * 2 doesn't equal f/5.6, check your math, it's f/1.4, but it's also doesn't mean you need to divide the different in stops to get to f/5.6, it's just a coincident that f/1.4 is two stops faster than f/2.8... you don't express the different in stops that way, it's just wrong... please say "2 stops slower than f/2.8 is f/5.6", not "f/2.8 * 2 = f/5.6" lol... 1 stop slower than f/1.4 is f/2, but if you expressed it like f/1.4 * 1 = f/2 it's totally messed up however you interpret it...
Hello sorry didn't see your comment sooner! You're asking about the mount? I recommend the EF mount because the adapter works really well with EF. but there are some excellent native m43 Sigma prime lenses available too
100 percent!! I really like speedboosters and it's one of the reasons why I still believe micro four thirds cameras to be the best! All the benefits of micro four thirds, and then if you need low light, Speed Boosters give you that full frame look
Hey Jon, Great video and good content, you earned a new sub. Im fairly new to the camera world and looking into purchasing a camera and have been doing research into this gh5 which seems like it will be my next purchase. My question though is aside from this lens is there any other you would recommend for professional photography using the gh5? Also is the gh5 even capable of taking good photos for like portraits and landscape / upclose etc? (also how do you get around the bad AF?) Would appreciate a response thanks!
Hi brother! I really appreciate it. I can recommend the GH5 hands down. It has really dropped in price as of late. I cannot imagine better value for your money at the moment. Are you more into photography or videography? A lot of photographers are switching to Olympus which is also a micro four thirds camera. GH5 is more video oriented however it takes great stills none the less. I think the Lumix G9 is more stills centric, but a recent firmware made tons of professional video recording features available. I can recommend micro four thirds cameras overall because of their smaller size, both body and lenses and this also means they're generally cheaper. Then if you really want the "full frame look" you can always get a speedbooster which gets you closer to full frame than even the super 35 sensors. Lens recommendations is tough. Both landscape and Portrait? You will need separate lenses. For portrait, anything above 35mm will be great. For landscape I'd say anything below 25m (assuming you're getting a micro four thirds camera) Lastly, for AF, for photos it works great. Even with the adapter and EF lens. For video, continuous auto focus is not great, but tap to focus is snappy and there is a button on the camera that is designed to get the focus with just a tap. Otherwise for video I do manual. lots of the more nicer vintage lenses are all manual anyway. One of my main lenses is Kamlan50mm which is fully manual. I got a video on it. This went on a bit long. Hope I managed to answer some questions
@@JonBear which lens with a speedbooster would give me a 35mm look? and if you say anything below 25mm for landscape , which lens would be good for that since a 25mm with a x2 crop factor would give a focal length of 50mm. is there an advantage to manual vs the autofocus lenses? like your Kamlan 50mm would be 100mm on a MFT right? thanks for the reply i appreciate it!
@@dezcanso1540 yes kamlan 50 mm becomes 100 mm equivalent so it's fantastic for portrait. The speedbooster conversion is (lens mm x 0.71) then because of mft crop, it's x2 Manuals have no advantages other than being cheaper. Lenses that don't zoom are called prime lenses and they're generally considered more beautiful, but you lose the convenience of zooming.
@@dezcanso1540 specific lenses is hard to recommend because I don't know your budget. Generally I prefer fast lenses, like the Kamlan (f1.1) and Sigma on speedbooster. If you're trying to find fast lenses with zooms, I recommend speedbooster with ef lenses. If you don't mind having no zoom, then native m43 primes are more affordable. Kamlan is a great example. 7Artisans is another cheap manufacturer. These cheap primes don't autofocus. Sigma also makes absolutely amazing top of the line prime lenses for micro four thirds. I think you can get the set for about 1k usd
@@JonBear Well lets say budget wasn't a factor, can you list the best lenses ( prime , zoom , sigma w/ speed, native , kamlan etc..) whichever you think are the best in ascending order of what i should purchase to have a complete gh5 powerhouse set of lenses. Thanks again for all your help!!! and appreciate the responses. thanks!
Hi John, mine same set is quite terrible when it comes to photos at infinity. It backfocuses to the point that this set is unusable for photos at the distance more than 1,5m. Any advice? Tried to calibrate the lens using sigma USB dock. Somehow did not work at all.
Good question. Here's what you do. Take off the speedbooster and look at it where the lens mounts. The glass element should extrude there. Try turning it clockwise. Gently. Put the lens and camera back on and test it. If it's still bad, turn it more. Repeat until you get it right. You can even get your lens to be parfocal if you find the sweet spot. I used a permanent marker to make marks on the inside of the speedbooster as I repeated it trial and error. Gerald undone had a video on this too. Good luck!
Hey brother! Super appreciate it! Yeah I'll make a video on it that's a great idea! Just some quick things off the bat: *I put tap to focus on the ae/lock button, (this makes filming manual a breeze) *I shoot natural with everything -5 *I put the Ex telephoto function on the front button (the one next to the lens) I'll include more in the video, cheers!
@@JonBear yo man thanks i using Gh5 +vilrox+sigma18-35 lens- and the conection between the vilrox to the lens is a little shaky - just a small wiggle - but using canon 50mm or canon 35-70mm is rock steady - do you know any fix? or maybe the vilrox came faulty?
My dear friend Nice Video ,Im new to this and looking to get the " used "sigma 18-35 and the VILTROX NF-M43X for my GH5. Can you give any off the " link" to Buying this .Hopefully waiting for it . Thank You ..and even subscribed your channel .
Hey Jaya!! Thank you so much for the sub! Very much appreciate it. I don't have any discount links. However if I were you, I'd look up Ebay and also local "buy and sell" pages on facebook and ask around. For viltrox, make sure you get the EF-M2 II one!
Hello. You are using a Panasonic Lumix GH camera and a Sigma AF 18-35mm lens with a Viltrox EF-M1 adapter. If you focus on the subject, and change the focal length of the lens (18 - 35 or 35 - 18). Does the subject remain sharp? The sharpness disappears on my camera, and I need to focus a second time. When using a Panasonic 12 -38, 2.8 lens, there is no such effect. I change the focal length and the subject is constantly in focus. What do you think is the cause of the effect with Sigma AF 18-35mm.
I see what you mean! Yes this is called "parfocal". Sigma is unfortunately not a parfocal lens. Cinema zoom lenses tend to be Parfocal but they're really expensive. So yes you need to re-focus when you change the focal length.
Hi, nice video. I have viltrox ef m2 II EF prime lens 35mm 1.5 . I have very blurry picture at ap1.5. On 2.0 and higher its ok. I tried metabones and on ap 1.5 its ok. is it something wrong with my viltrox? tnx
I haven't updated yet, which puts me in a good position to test before and after. This past week I did some vlogging with this combo using AF and at least pre-update, it's quite unreliable. I will compare it to an updated GH5 and report my results!
at 3:35 in you say the sigma 1.8 lens with the speedbooster becomes 1.2. But isn't that incorrect? Example: A 1.8 aperature lens on a MFT now becomes 5.6, then you add the speedbooster of 0.71 and now it becomes a 3.9 (ir 4.0). Let me know your thoughts. This seems to be a HUGE debate on the web: whether or not the MFT crop means you increase the aperature. Some are saying no it only changes DOF. I haven't seen a good test to confirm this.
The speedbooster multiplication applies to the original aperture of the lens. So 1.8 becomes 1.2 (the ui on the camera also displays it a 1.2) Then if you want to find out the full frame equivalent, you can do the 2x multiplication guideline to get an estimate of 2.4 equivalent. In the end we're talking about equivalents so it's hard to be accurate. For me the results speak for themselves. This combo is amazing for me 😁🤙 hope this helps. And yes I think the 2x multiplication is only to estimate equivalent DOF, not light. Like a ton of comments have pointed out 👍👍
Congrats with your purchase! Yeah because it changes electronically in steps. You can get it modded into a cine-lens that is parfocal if you want to have an aperture ring instead.
I have metabonse and viltrox, the metabonse its sturdier, but has worst machined tolerances, you also need to rotate the lens to calibrate the infinitive focus. I prefere the viltrox for the price.
Awesome! Appreciate the input! I picked up the viltrox after watching comparisons and seeing that the metabones is only slightly sharper in corners. With the massive price difference, getting a viltrox was an easy choice.
I received the EF-M2 II to use my sigma 18-35 (EF) with my GH5 (M43). I have tried for about 2 hours and watched every possible video and nothing is working. The adapter fits fine on the GH5 but no matter what I do, no matter how I try to attach it, It wont connect. It's extremely frustrating because I've made sure I am using the right components over and over. Could the EF side be faulty or my main question is the EF-M2 a different product than the EF-M2 II? I am really confused and have just waited weeks to get these connected. Once again I purchased the "VILTROX EF-M2II Speed Booster Micro 4/3 Focal Reducer Booster Adapter Auto-Focus 0.71x for Canon EF Mount Series Lens to M4/3 Camera GH4 GH5 GF6 GF1 GX1 GX7 E-M5 E-M10 E-M10II E-PL5" and it wont mount to my Sigma 18-35. ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated.
HELP!!! Everyone is only talking about the Sigma Cannon EF mount with the + the ViltrOx EF-M2 for the GH5..but MY Sigma lens is a Nikon F mount and I want to adapt it to my GH5..WILL THE VILTROX EF-M2 II WORK WITH MY NIKON F MOUNT???
Viltrox has made an adapter that fits on the Nikon lens as well! (NIKON to Micro four thirds) amzn.to/32GXNBE It's cheaper than the Canon version however it's fully manual. So you need to adjust the aperture on an aperture ring on the speedbooster itself. I shoot everything in manual anyway. Anybody doing professional videography will - besides this lens is not good with auto focus to begin with so you are not missing much. Cheaper speedbooster with little downside. Check it out!
That's incredible! Stepping it up and doubling down on the Sigma! It's such an insanely nice combo. I may do the same but with one or the other black magic pockets (6k or 4k)
100 percent! The in-body stabilization of the GH5 is unbelievably good. Panning the camera is very smooth and I can also move with it if I do the ninja walk. You can check my desert safari video, there are some walking shots there, at nighttime where I didn't shoot slomo so that I could keep the shutter speed low. Still is stable! Another trick is to film at 30fps then interpret the footage to 24 frames, so the slight slomo smooths out walking shots, but you barely notice that everything is in slow-motion, and everything gets a dreamy smooth vibe to it.
Thanks for the question! Yes. f1.2 is displayed in the camera UI when wide open. *So it is f1.2 in terms of light* . But you are right, in terms of depth of field, it's a estimated f2.5 equivalent
Please stop, f/2.8 is always f/2.8, no matter what crop has a camera. The point is that crop camera with the same resolution as FF has smaler pixels and need more light to compensate it.
I may be mistaken but the depth of field and need for more light makes the x2 calculation fairly accurate to estimate the equivalent effect. Of course it's still 2.8. Check this DOF simulator for more info dofsimulator.net/en/
@@MikeMarrah almost true. But becouse mtf has smaler circle od confusion i has a little smaller deph of field than ff. Look smaller Pixels needs sharper ligth
@@JonBear connecting the speed booster to my Gh5, there's no issue it fits easy like any other lens...on the flip side it doesn't seem like the speed Booster and The Sigma 18-35 meant to fit each other.. which in looking at several videos I see that can't be correct because many people use this combination.. and I see no one says there's a big difference between the EF-M2 vs EF-M2 II except for the contacts...
Update for anyone in the future that may run into the same issue..that maybe new to this realm..I realized that I have the Sigma 18-35 for Nikon cameras which explains why The EF adapter will not work.. There are Mounts for it From Metabones and Viltrox as well..
@@batchan1 Dang that's a shame! Hope you can switch out the adapter. I have a friend that uses the Nikon sigma as well. The viltrox adapter for Nikon does not include electronics so you cannot change the aperture in camera. You need to do it on the adapter itself instead. I have no idea if the metabones nikon adapter is like this too.
Think I got a faulty Viltrox EF-M2. Keep getting lens attachment failed on the GH5 when connecting the SIGMA 18 to 35mm to the Viltrox. Updating the Viltrox firmware made no difference. Have you ever had this issue?? Thanks.
Damn I didn’t even remember I commented here! But I got the setup and it’s so good! Only thing is that I haven’t used manual focus before so just gotta take my time and learn to use it. And as for the video type I have only shot videos for myself until now just with my friends but with the setup update I’m going to start doing client work. The combo is pretty good on stills too btw, I’ve taken few nice portraits with it!
Yep all handheld. I have used gimbals before but on GH5 the stabilization is good enough for the shots I like! Here's a recent gym video I made instagram.com/p/B4NhFpqHJRS/?igshid=ymmvyq901soz
@@JonBear Hi I shot this a little while ago just for fun during covid-isolation if you'd to view and maybe sub please? czcams.com/video/73PVw2Pks6Q/video.html
I cant stop watching your tutorial. It helping me personal .. Now I puchase Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM für Canon Objektivbajonett. I hope it works well for my panasonic GH5? And what adaptor or booster can I use ?
My pleasure! If you use the Canon adapter instead of Nikon, then you can use this one amzn.to/2SOdVLP (same as the one I have in the video!) With this one, you can control aperture in camera. Autofocus also works great for photos. But for video it's noisy, so it will work best if you manual focus.
I am getting flickering image on fast movements with this setup. Maybe it's my viltrox, I don't know. Everyone uploads sharp videos but I can't achieve it
Is it flickering from lights?? I am not sure I understand what you mean with flickering. Also you mentioned that you don't get sharp images, try using it at f1.6 or higher
Recently, I bought a Viltrox EF-M2 II and a Sigma 18-35mm 1.8 for my Panasonic GH5, but when I attach the lens to the adapter, it doesn't fit completely, it stays halfway and doesn't lock onto the adapter. Does anyone know what could be the issue?
either your viltrox was dirty or your lens or you have too many filters in front of your sensor but the workout video was soft and the flares were not good. 5:035:06
Could be the tiffen UV filter that I use. It came with the Sigma from B&H so I figured it was good. Might have to look into it. Either way I cleaned all my glass thoroughly after seeing your comment with Zeiss wipes 🙏
![I'm done with speedboosters on my GH5 + Sigma 18-35mm [Viltrox EF-M1 vs M2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sbGurRoaBGg/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you! Check out other gear reviews on my channel! I upload many times each week czcams.com/users/jonbear
I bought the Viltrox Ef-m2 II for $99. Best piece of camera gear I ever bought. I'm using it on a G7, and it looks amazing with a Canon 50mm f/1.8.
You got one heck of a deal! Yeah it's an absolute game changer for micro four thirds 😁 I bet the 50mm canon looks incredible
Dude does the viltrox affect the aperture of the lens? Like from f/1.8 on the sigma 18-35 turn it into f1/. 2?
There is no correlation to aperture in M4/3 when it comes to light capability. It's the depth of field that will be affected (twice as deep)
wait but it adds 2/3rds stop of light
Both the DOF and the lowlight capabilities will be affected. The sensor is smallers, therefore, less light. However, being a major M43 proponent - and having set side by side shots with a Leica M10 and a 50mm Leica M mount f1.4 (a 15K combo) and shots with an Olympus EM-1 and a 75mm Navitar f1.3 (less than 2K) side by side making it seamless looking - there is definitely less light that get in a M3/4 sensor. Not even close. I could shoot with the Leica at f1.4, ISO 800 at night and it looked like a flash set-up was being used where nothing but the street lights were being used.
But, the practice is different than the theory : it doesn't look like f5.6... it looks like there is more in focus, but the bokeh does look like f2.8. Which to me, is a *major* advantage of M4/3 format : you nail the focus at a wider aperture much more easily than with a full-frame camera or an APS-C. Which means I can go shoot wide open with my Oly 25mm f1.8 on the street and nail the focus 9.5/10 times on my subject - try that with a FF, good damn luck!
Also, a M4/3 sensor is actually sharper edge-to-edge. There are less space to cover by the lens. If you use a 16mm lens (3x crop factor), the footage look dangerously sharp. It's insane. I have a 720p upload on the EM-1 mark I, which is known to suffer from soft video issues, shot with my Navitar prime wide-open at f/1.3, looking super-sharp.
Now if you pixel-peep, sure. But who are gonna pixel-peel a video??? Nobody. No one is gonna freeze a frame and zoom in. And it's useless to do with photo unless you work as a top pro in advertising and have retouchers working like crazy on your shots - having said that, there is at least one top pro in that field shooting... you guesset it.. Olympus.
I love this system because it gives me freedom. The freedom to put on any lens I want, even one designed for a security camera from the 70's. I love that, and for this reason, I'm a M4/3 person for life!
@@jas_bataille > Both the DOF and the lowlight capabilities will be affected. The sensor is smallers, therefore, less light.
That's on the sensor. But f/2.8 is the same light as f/2.8 in a FF camera.
When you take APS-C sized frame and reduce it to the MFT sensor size you get more light on the sensor. But the aperture does not change.
@@jas_bataille The comparison could be slightly flawed since photo lenses measure in f stops. I suppose if you use cinema lenses, a T1.5 would result in exactly the same exposure on either cameras, ignoring DoF.
Excellent! I saved for the metabones and don't regret it for a second. Low light now looks supreme, esp vid where I was hoping. f 1.3 now. Highly recommend.
Awesome Chris! This combo is deadly 🙌🙌
Nice video !!! Aputure stay 2.8 even if its a m4/3, only the focal length equivalence and depth of field change ;)
You're right! I should say depth of field equivalent becomes 5.6! Thank you for watching 🙏
Well yes, but actually no. The "brightness" the lens delivers is not lower, but on a smaller surface which results in worse low light performance. If you use a speedbooster you concentrate all of the light to this surface (pf the M4/3 Sensor) so the image gets brighter
Hey get the Viltrox EF-MFT smart adapter as well. This will allow you to get both the boosted 26-50mm f2.5 as well as the 36-70mm f3.6 focal lengths. A constant f3.6 at those ranges are very good still, those focal lengths are generally for narrative and subject focused shots and they need to be properly lit anyway.
Thank you Matt! I recently got the regular adaptor (without electronics) to get the 36-70 focal length and it looks great. Downside of getting the "non-smart" adaptor is that the aperture is always opened up to the widest (f3.6 equivalent) but fortunately the Sigma looks crrrrisp even wide open :)
@@JonBear oh I thought there was a smart adapter out there. Does Viltrox not make one with electronic contacts? I know Metabones does.
@@MattJett yes it does... I have both too...
It vignettes because the lens was designed for APS-C (that's the "DC" part of the name) with a 1.62 crop factor, giving it an "effective" FF 29.1mm at full wide. Your MFT camera has a 2.0 crop factor but then you are throwing a .71 on to that. Running the math, your effective focal length (full frame equivalent) is 25.6mm. Which is wider than the lens was designed for! So it vignettes somewhat when it is full wide. You would be better off (IMHO) running with a simple adapter not a speed reducer. This foregoes the speed boost obviously, but runs the lens closer to it's design specs and removes a potentially problematic additional optical element. This would give you a 36-70mm effective focal range, a very useful range, and a still very fast f1.8
The speedbooster isn't improving low-light capability as you're saying. It allows you to "drop your aperture" another stop.
Basically, your 2.8 lens on a m4/3 is still 2.8 in terms of light. Not a 5.6 as you're saying it would be.
That's right. My mistake! It's 5.6 in terms of shallow depth of field.
The speedbooster allows me to use a 1.8 zoom lens like the Sigma on my m4/3 camera, and also drops my aperture. So yes it does improve my low light capability. Native zoom lenses generally don't drop further than 2.8. Unless you're willing to spend almost two grand on the Panasonic 10-25mm f1.7. It's comparable to this Sigma combo but at double the price and from the comparison videos on CZcams, the Sigma still delivers better image quality 👍
Cheers brother thanks for watching!
Just to he clear, when you stated that the boosted Sigma f1.8 goes to f1.2, you actually are getting f2.4 at the end of the day on your MFT 2.0x crop factor camera. Better than f3.6 with no Speedbooster.
He got it wrong the first time bud. The crop factor does not affect the light comming in, only the bokeh.
Came across your video while doing research on this lens. I just ordered it on Amazon, I hope it won't disappoint! Great video!
I hope you have had much success with it! Would love to see some of your shots
Jon Bear Thank you! My latest video was filmed with this lens. But I am considering returning it as I make ASMR videos, and the lens is awfully loud when it is autofocusing. It is such a great lens, if only the autofocus was quieter.
@@AlexAuAsmr That's unfortunate! I regrettably forgot to mention autofocus since I don't use it. You could try putting it into manual, and set your focus ahead of time.
Jon Bear I considered that but it’s gonna be difficult as I have to move around in some of my videos, so I am on the hunt for another good lens!
I wish Sigma also made a DC (APS-C version like the 18-35mm) that covered somewhere between 35-90mm at f1.8 also. They have a 24-70mm f2.8 DG (full frame version), but you would need to buy another adapter for the full frame lens and then you wouldn't be getting any better focal ranges or depth of field over the 18-35mm DC lens.
50-100 1.8?
Viltrox Speedbooster adjusted correctly is much sharper than the metabones... Especially in corners...
I am using it now 100% of the time on my rigged BMPCC4K now. Years after making this video. Still don't understand why people comment that it isn't good. It's seriously great. Just needs adjusting
Im heading to Japan in 3 weeks and was curious if you still feel great about this lens. I've got the voigtlander which is 17.5mm at f0.95 but it doesnt zoom and so I just want something that can zoom a bit. Going to check more about your channel now. Thanks for the vid.
Literally ordered this combo last week for my gh5. Good video bud. Subscribed and joined the group. Class stuff.
That's fantastic Stewart! Please share any videos you make in the group I would love to see it! What type of video are you intending to make with this gear?
boom first view, also i love the hype up of the video!
BROO!! You're king! Appreciate it
Thank you so much for the tips.. really looking into this lens and its speedbooster..
Hey bro. Thanks for the tips. Im from malaysia. Right now I am survey the great ibis camera for the company I work.
crop factor has no effect on exposure or the effective f/ratio of a lens. it’s still an f/2.8 lens and will have the same exposure (at the same ISO and shutter speed) as any other camera. What changes is the effective depth of field, not because of the sensor size, but because of the changes in either focal length or subject distance that are necessary to get the same composition as a full frame sensor
Was coming down here ti say this hahah
great video mate! Well done. Fellow GH5 user here. Keep up the good work!
My man! Appreciate the good vibes!
Oh man now I want some of that SIGMA action also as I use that 12-35mm quite a bit. But hey great video, loved the quick pace and fast cuts. Keep it up bro!
The 12-35 if so good though! These two lenses measure up quite well. If you're shooting at daytime and don't care about bokeh, 12-35 is the winner.
Both are sharp as heck but the 12-35 has focal range equivalent of 24-70, while sigma speedbooster gets the equivalent of 26-50mm.
12 35 is alot lighter than 18 35 :)
Hi Jon, I am not sure of what you said: "In MFT F/2.8 equals to F/5.6". Light is light. It is true that there is a crop factor of 2x and impacts Aperture focal length (in milimeters) and also bokeh. But I don't have clear that you can apply this also to light. I think that a 1.4 lens, is the same in all the systems. Not sure. Am I wrong?
Yes you are right! The 2x conversion for MFT applies to crop and depth of field. So to get a 2.8 equivalent depth of field on MFT you'd need 1.4. But Light has nothing to do with it. However as smaller sensors, MFT tends to need more light in general. Sorry for the confusion! I posted a correction in the description and others also pointed out my blunder. Thanks again for watching!
@@JonBear Thank you Jon. Waiting for more videos!
@@TheDIYFilmmaker thank you! It means a lot 🙏
Jon hi! Really nice video, I found it really great!
Thank you Garfield! Super appreciate it
Loved the intro!! Video is spot on. Thanks for making this
Cheers brother! Check out my Cappadocia cinematic travel video, people really seem to love that and it was mostly shot with sigma viltrox
Great to see also a starter! I have the same setup only with the 50mm.
I bet it makes a really good portrait setup!
@@JonBear yes i love it.
Love the intro - "Boogie Nights"!!!
The song fit perfectly!
Hey, Jon thy for your video since I don't have much experience with advanced cameras I have a Lumix FZ1000 :D, I hope you can help me out.
I want to shoot training videos and cooking in a normal lighted kitchen with maybe 2 cheap softbox lights like 75W light bulbs.
Until now I did not buy a good light like gordox (if i have to i would buy it ) because I don't see myself setting up a studio in a commercial gym or something (some cases cant be done with setting things up) , so I need something good for shooting in low light
but what is low light is low light night :D or is low light a normal lit commercial gym or a bit lighted kitchen?
I am very confused about what I would need to make good-looking videos. Do I need the GH5s or would the GH5 be sufficient with the speed booster and this fast lens?
Because I am also gonna travel ( i hope so ;D ) and well taking a gimbal with me is something I would do but if the gh5 could do the stuff I want I would buy rather the allrounder.
Well, I hope you find the time for reading and answering me thy in advance :)
For me the GH5 is a fantastic all-arounder. It takes fantastic photographs and videos and is stabilized so it's still my main travel camera.
For client work I use a blackmagic 4k as my main camera, but the GH5 is still so so good and I use it as my B camera and the image matches the Blackmagic really well.
Using this setup you will have your low light videography covered. This lens is a bit heavy for travel but I still use it all over the world on my travels and never regret bringing it. The only downside is that the autofocus does not work well with the adapter when filming video. If you have extra money, you could always get a pricier SONY full frame like A7SIII which makes any low light setting look bright
@@JonBear thy for your response i saw some stuff about the bmc4k and now I am completely confused :D i am looking into that now a bit stabilization for handheld wouldn't be that bad, my search goes on ^^.. sony would be nice but i don't have infinite money :'(
so for someone whos not owning the gh5 would you say buy the gh5s or the bmc4k ?
are you using manual focus when you filming?
I really love GH5 with this lens and I am using but the only thing I hate is that the auto focusing is not that smooth. The auto focus changing very smoothly when I use Panasonic lens line cinematic. But this lens auto focus is not like that. so.. I am using manual focus but sometimes it is out of focus....
Hey bro! Sorry for the late reply. Yes I only shoot manual with the Sigma. If I need autofocus I use native lenses. But usually I don't, I just enjoy manual focus.
Make sure to set it so that the screen zooms in when focusing so that you can fine tune it. Using the viewfinder also helps. Finally I'd put the focus peaking at max so that all edges in focus light up
Don’t try make day from night! Low light of gh5 is good as it have to be.
Very good point! Our cameras aren't night vision goggles!
Dude! I'm SO glad I found this video. It was entertaining and informative - I learned a lot in 8+ minutes. Okay, I can't believe I'm about to say this, but I do not have a Facebook account, but now I'm considering getting one to join your community - I think I need the type of collaboration you mentioned. Thx!
Thank you so much Gerald! It means a ton! I agree with facebook I am not a huge fan but it is extremely useful for finding active communities. As for camera groups, you can also find communities on other sites. Reddit also has great groups although Reddit tends to be more anonymous.
Jon Bear okay, thank you!
I have been seriously consider purchasing in the Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Summilux 10-25mm f/1.7 ASPH which DP Review and others professional sites have ll said the Panasonic Leica DG Vario-Summilux 10-25mm f/1.7 ASPH covers 3 lens which includes the 18-35 (great lens I have heard) and two others. The price in very expensive but i guess if you now have 3 lens in one it works out to be a deal. HAVE YOU USED THIS LENS YET? If yes I would love t o hear your thoughts on it. If you live in Dubai my guess it is quite over priced there since I was there recently. Hoping you will reply to my message. Keep putting out great content, looking forward to seeing more. Thank You. G
I feel ashamed to have not noticed your comment earlier! I have really wanted to try out the 10-25 f1.7, it really is the dream lens. However after I saw Gerald Undone compare the sigma to it, I decided to pick up the sigma. They're very very similar but the sigma with speedbooster is much cheaper and it means I can buy other EF lenses for my camera! If price wasn't a factor I'd probably have gotten it over the Sigma.
Garfield thank you so much for the comment. I just made a video comparing the Sigma with the Panasonic 12-35 f2.8, and people asked me why I didn't compare the 10-25 instead haha
You multiplied aperture of M4/3 lens by crop factor and converted 2.8 to 5.6 ,
But you didn’t consider crop factor of Sigma which is made for aps C . So I think just to compare if 2.8 becomes 5.6 for M4/3 systems , sigmas 1.8 should become 1.8 x 1.5 x 0.71 which is approx 2.0
The correct calculation is actually 1.8 (lens F stop) x 2 (MFT crop factor) x 0.71 (adapter focal reducer) = F2.556 (Full frame equivalent); just because it's an APSC lens, doesn't mean you crop by 1.5, it still has a MFT sensor, so the crop in the calculation is still 2. Hope this clears things up.
95lombax I think you are right. 1.8 should be multiplied by 2 instead of 1.5 . Equivalent should be 2.5 and not 2.0
Amazing video, thank you for sharing. Is it true that you lose autofocus when using the Viltrox adapter? Thank you
Thank you! Autofocus still works but isn't reliable and it's noisy.
But it still works great for photos!🙌🙌
@@JonBear Thank you bud, greatly appreciate that. 🙌🏾🙌🏾
Are you or anyone else having problems with the Viltrox speedbooster or adapter with the GH5? I have the GH5s and the Viltrox EF-M2 and I can't turn on IBIS. It's greyed out and won't let me alter it. I've tried the newest firmware upgrade for Viltrox (3.5) and also downgrading it to 2.3. It was 3.2 when I first got it. Frustrating as hell. Doesn't matter if I'm using the Sigma 18-35 or my canon 50mm lens.
GH5S does not have ibis does it? Are you talking about electronic stabilization?
For regular GH5 the ibis works with the speedbooster perfectly.
@@JonBear eff. I think you're right. I just purchased it and didn't figure it would have LESS features. I knew that it had dual ISO and so would be much better for low light. But yeah, that really makes the Sigma 18-35 a liability on the GH5s. It means a gimbal becomes almost a requirement. I'm going to have to do some testing with a shoulder rig to see how bouncy it is. Without IBIS, why not just the Blackmagic?
@@JonBear what's funny is that stabilization is still listed in the menu like it's taunting me each time I scroll past it.
Oooff yeah man listing the Ibis in the menu is kinda mean of them.
Yes I use a Blackmagic too and got it instead of a GH5S. Gh5 is still my run and gun main camera.
Lots of pros prefer not having ibis. Sometimes it introduces a lot of wobbly warpy image. GH5S also has v-log and better dynamic range so it's definitely a more professional tool
Which version do I get for the gh5? Canon, nikon, sony?
Hey Man, great video and insight. Im definitely getting this combo for my GH5. just starting as a filmmaker. maybe we can discuss some ideas.
Hey Rutger! This comment completely slipped by me! If you wanna chat hit me up on instagram or facebook!
Nice video man! In mother before I saw that the EFS Mount doesn’t work with the efM2 adaptor unless you manually customise it. I don’t know what that means! And I don’t want to break it! Did you just put the lines straight on the adapter and on to the GH5 or did you need to do anything to the lense? Thanks man 🙌🏾
Thank you brother! This adapter needs no customization 👍just pop it on the viltrox speedbooster and you're good to go!
this base on your adapter, i think your adapter is one of a kind of ef-mft adapter (jintu, fotga, bla bla)
viltrox is blurry af, you should get metabones if anything, but i think native MFT primes are probably the best, sigma has best wide open sharpness and slow / better video AF, panasonic leica has sharpest quality but only in the center at wide open (ex tele mode probably best). use dxomark sharpness field map and imaging resource graph sliders
You're right on all points. Except viltrox is only slightly blurry in corners and the price difference is notable. Granted metabones is recommended for any work with a budget.
Hey budy what a great channel love it ...
Subed and the bell on .
Just bought me the gh5 with the viltrox ..
I want also a good inifinty focus as i do astrophotography , curious 8n hiw you did that rotating the glass thing 🤔🥴
Super appreciate it brother! Made my day 😁
I'm actually going to be doing astrophotography and Northern lights shoot tonight with this lens!
For the viltrox, if you're unable to get infinity, then try turning the glass on the adapter. It screws in, so you might need to screw it deeper in.
Just be careful and don't screw too deep. It can get stuck
I have this combo and it’s great but I also have the Voigtlander 0.95 17.5 mm and it is awesome on the Gh5.
f/0.95 sounds bonkers. Do you ever use it wide open or do you need to stop it up to something like f/1.6 to get any sharpness?
Hi, thanks so much for your replies, at 5:36 you mention having to rotate the glass in the Viltrox to get it to work. Did you have to use any tools to do this please?
Sorry for the late reply!
When you rotate the glass all you gotta do is grab it with your fingers and turn it. It's screwed in.
@@JonBear Hi sorry to bother you again about this but can you tell did if the rotation of the glass in the viltrox make your sigma 18-35 par focal please? As I saw on a Geral Undone video that he used a small screwdriver and made a little adjustment on the viltrox that made his sigma 18-35 par focal.
@@jbaldsing hey bro! Nope, that's an issue in the lens. No matter what mount you use, you're gonna need to adjust focus after you zoom.
When I rotated the glass in viltrox, it helped me get infinity focus. I found a video showing how to do it on CZcams.
Cheers brother! Hope to see some awesome videos from you
@@JonBear I don't suppose you've the sigma dock to update the len's firmware?
@@JonBear thank again for your helpful replies bro! I'm going to try to get my hands on the sigma usb dock to update this lenses firmware to see what that does too! Will let you know what happens!
"No longer does the GH5 have any flaws" But what about Auto Focus?
What about it?
@@JonBear I think most GH5 users would agree its less than ideal. If they could get it to be a bit more reliable I think it would be the PERFECT camera. Great video though!
@@ChaseTheSummit Fair point brother! Personally I have never used a camera where the AF was good enough that I'd rely on it.
For casual vlogging situations in daylight I found GH5 AF sufficient. I cannot imagine any other situations where I'd use it.
Haha yeah I get that. I own the A7III and the GH5 so I'm spoiled with seeing how good Sony can be. It locks on and stays locked on, great for talking head type stuff. The GH5 is unusable for the most part unless I lock off in AFS mode. Good video though, keep up the good work! Surprised you dont have more subs!
@@ChaseTheSummit That's awesome to hear! Never tried A7iii.
Appreciate it bro! I don't need a ton of subs, but it means alot to me when people like you to watch and comment 👍 thank you 🙏
Viltrox died on me.. did all the updates .. just bought the metabones.
That's unfortunate brother. There's no way around it, viltrox probably keeps prices in check with flimsy parts and lack of quality check
mine just died on me as well, lens firmware says -.- on my gh5 and when I try updating it doesn't do anything. Won't let me take photos or video with the shutter button when attached. Torn between buying another viltrox or just shelling out and buying the metabones
hi Jon again, with the sigma usb dock, you don't need to adjust the focus manually on the viltrox, or it's only for canon mounts, thanks
You must be a Jim Carey fan 😂👍.
People keep saying that! However it's true, I watched him way too much growing up
Hi I’m a Sony shooter and thinking about getting gh5 or bmpcc4k
But gh5 kinda worries me in the low light becuese it’s my main shooting style
If you had to pick gh5 or bmpcc4k which one would you go for
GH5 is still my preferred run-n-gun camera because of the ibis. It gets insanely stable shots.
But if low light is a priority then BMPCC4K is way better. Depends on your style really. In the end fast lenses matter more than how good cameras are in low light so either way you'd do pretty good with a GH5 at f1.8 or lower and cap your ISO at 3200
Great video :-)
Super appreciate it Derrick! Thanks for watching
Nice Video! I agree with almost everything. Only the f2.8 correlation is wrong. F2.8 continues f2.8. Only the DoF is 2x.
Yes this is true! You are correct :D!
Great video bro
As far as low light shooting... they have these things called lights, maybe you should try one!
I'll give it a shot. I heard they use this thing called electricity! Sounds like magic
"let me do the math" The technician in me in 0.5 seconds : 5.6 ...
You don't need to really do the maths tho. Apertures are always the same from one lens to the next. You just go "what is closest the aperture closest to 2x 2.8?" = 5.6 OR... 2x2 = 4; 8+8 = 16; divide 16 by ten... 5.6
P.S. : You're gonna confuse the hell out of beginners by calling a normal focal length a "super wide" lens... it's super-fast, not super-wide. In fact, wide angle primes are slower than normal or telephoto ones. No mean to be disrespectful, but you got a bunch of newcomers totally what-the-fucked :P
Hey! Yeah super wide was more of a description of the physical properties of the lens rather than it's focal length. Not the best choice of words
I had same issue as you, what solve my problem is the voigtlander 0.95 lenses, amazing glass
Great primes! Do you own a set?
Jon Bear yes I got just the 25mm, started with it to see if I like it, and I’m thinking about getting the 42.5
@@RonBilevich I would love to see some videos you've made with the 25mm. What would the 42.5mm be used for? It's almost a telephoto at that point.
I own the Kamlan 50mm f1.1 and I don't see many instances I would use it.
Does the AF work with the Viltrox speedbooster and sigma 18-35mm?
It works fantastic with photos! Fast and does burst shots with ease. With videos, tap to focus works fantastic. But keep the camera in manual, and put the switch on the lens to Auto
@@JonBear my main issue I will use it a lot on a gimbal for video. I often work now on my gimbal with tap auto focus and move in to focus. However sometimes for fast moving subjects like animals or focus transition I really like to have AF as an option. I saw gh5 has a focus transition option but I doubt its useable on a gimbal? The gh5 is like the perfect camera but the af with sigma 18-35mm holds me a bit off. Does the gh5 have any other features to make it work for my goals?
@@NigelAquascaping there are servo motors to do rack focusing on gimbal although I don't use em myself. A friend of mine does a ton of gimbal work with fully manual cine lenses and uses motors to focus
Nice video bro thank you
Thank you!
Love The energy!!!
CAnnaAT COnTAIN!
2:27 - bullshit, 5.6 is only an equivalent aperture. The light intensity is the same, it corrupts only bokeh
Exactly!!
I read somewhere the f-stop on mft won’t be 2x as with the focal range.
Hi Jon, I wanted to ask you a question, the autofocus works with the sigma 18-35 + viltrox and this lens has internal stabilization, thank you very much
Hey Jesus! Tap to focus works all the time but auto focus during recording does not work. This lens does not have internal stabilization but when combined with gh5 its super stable 👍hope that answers your question
@@JonBear Thanks for the quick response, I liked this lens because of the brightness, but I think I prefer 12-35 f2.8 II and 10-25 f1.7 of panasonic zoom and 42.5mm f1 .2 nocticron fixed, thanks friend
@@jesusgarciaencuentra6001 The sigma is actually very similar to the 10-25 f1.7! Both in focal range and aperture. If you can afford it, go with the 10-25. If you wanna save yourself 800 bucks, go with the sigma speedbooster combo.
I still use the 12-35 f2.8 sometimes. It's small and insanely sharp. Pretty much perfect as long as you don't bring it into low light situations. I also find the bokeh from f2.8 to be sufficient and realistic
@@JonBear Again with you Jon, the problem I have is that if I don't have autofocus and I'm working with the dual air wench, I can't handle the focus ring, that's why I needed autofocus, thanks if you want to tell me something else here I am, greetings
can you use a viltrox speedbooster and still have autofocus using a sigma/canon lenses whilst using the gh5?
Autofocus for video is really not great and it makes a ton of sound.
However, if you have manual focus on, the "tap to focus" function is still fast and reliable. I map it to one of my free buttons. Really recommend that!
For photos, the autofocus is stellar 👍👍
So to answer your question, Yes 😁
No. It sucks. Manual for speedboosting.
Less cocaine before vlogging.
I'll switch to coffee boss
😂
full support bro good luck
Thank you brother 🙏 same to you 👍👍
LUMIX G...85 ✅
Viltrox Speedbooster ✅
Sigma 18-35mm ⚠️ pending
Cool video, I just hit subscribe. Your content and personality are great, I myself is on the hunt for that 1000k subscribers, so here’s to getting there. 😉
Hey bro! This comment completely slipped by me, replying a little late! The 85 is a fantastic camera. I am glad you're investing in a great lens. The Lens is what ups your game, not the camera body, and lenses don't age much - hence they have great resale value.
Hope you're still hustling! You'll hit that 1k subs! I've been putting out random content for years and finally settled on the creative entrepreneur niche.
@@JonBear Thank you very much for the well wishes. As for the lens, I certainly plan to invest way more in lens than I did for the camera body.
how's the AF performance tho? Is it as good as native lenses? cuz I've heard somewhere that combination of different brands of body and lens mess up the auto focus making it almost unusable.
You're right. The continuous auto focus is garbage. Lens also makes a lot of noise.
However, for "tap to focus" it's amazingly quick. So I shoot in manual. Got tap to focus mapped on one of my spare buttons.
Also for photos, AF is fast and reliable.
Basically it's only unusable while recording a video, but most panasonic cameras have unreliable AF during recording so you're not losing a lot.
Should I go for Gh5s + Simga 18-35mm in 2020 and does GH5s have better low light capability ?
It's a fantastic combo and you will surely be impressed! The GH5s has really good low light capability. The GH5 has really bad low light capability.
The reason for this is the dual ISO - meaning that the GH5s is able to increase ISO substantially without any noise. The GH5s also has superior qualities in other areas such as colors and it comes with V-Log built in.
The only downside of the GH5s is that it does not have IBIS (in body stabilization). But in my opinion Ibis is a little overrated and it often turns out wobbly so I wouldn't rely on it professionally either way.
Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
You can use ex tele on gh5 and it 2x the focal length.
Yes it's an awesome feature I use it all the time!
Can you do that on the GH5S? Does it reduce quality or crop sensor to get 2x focal length?
How did you “tweak” the viltrox to work with your sigma better?
Good question! You can find youtube videos on it. Basically the glass element inside the viltrox is screwed in. Sometimes you may need to screw it in deeper. Depends on your unit. Hope that helps!
Hey Jon, i was here about a month ago asking questions on lenses, i finally figured out i think that my first combo will be the sigma 18-35 with a speedbooster. Now my second question would be that do you think a Nikon 18-35 sigma with a NF to MFT XL.64 metabones for my Gh5 would be a decent combo? I know most people purchase the EF to MFT adapter with a sigma canon 18-35. The reason i ask this is because apparently the nikon lenses and speedboosters dont communicate electronically therefor you lose AF and IS when using them on the gh5. Would it matter since i will only be shooting video ? thank you sir!
Honestly I use Manual focus most of the time. For video it's absolutely fine, you'll barely notice it.
The only drawback I can think of is that you need to adjust aperture physically on the speedbooster since the lens itself doesn't have an aperture ring. The camera also won't be able to tell you what aperture you're using. If you get a good deal on it I say go for it!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I would just want to point out that a lot of video cameras accept or can adapt to EF mount lenses. Prior to the Z system, you would never hear "NIkon" and "video" in the same sentence. So I've actually not seen or heard anyone adapt F mount lenses on video cameras that often. In that sense, the EF version would be a better investment. Even if you decide to buy expensive cinema cameras in future, or if you get a Canon cinema camera it'll still be usable.
the way to calculate apperture equivalent not like that, is supposed to be 1.8x2x0.71 = 2.5 instead of 1.2 as you said
Yes you are correct! The UI however will say 1.2. And like others have pointed out, the light will still be 1.2 on micro four thirds. Only depth of field and focal range equivalent will be 2.5 😁
dude f/2.8 * 2 doesn't equal f/5.6, check your math, it's f/1.4, but it's also doesn't mean you need to divide the different in stops to get to f/5.6, it's just a coincident that f/1.4 is two stops faster than f/2.8... you don't express the different in stops that way, it's just wrong...
please say "2 stops slower than f/2.8 is f/5.6", not "f/2.8 * 2 = f/5.6" lol...
1 stop slower than f/1.4 is f/2, but if you expressed it like f/1.4 * 1 = f/2 it's totally messed up however you interpret it...
what type of 18-35 sigma lens do I need for my gh5. Pls help do it have to be a hsm?
Hello sorry didn't see your comment sooner!
You're asking about the mount? I recommend the EF mount because the adapter works really well with EF. but there are some excellent native m43 Sigma prime lenses available too
Jon Bear appreciate it brotgee
Great quality 💯
100 percent!! I really like speedboosters and it's one of the reasons why I still believe micro four thirds cameras to be the best! All the benefits of micro four thirds, and then if you need low light, Speed Boosters give you that full frame look
Hey Jon, Great video and good content, you earned a new sub. Im fairly new to the camera world and looking into purchasing a camera and have been doing research into this gh5 which seems like it will be my next purchase. My question though is aside from this lens is there any other you would recommend for professional photography using the gh5? Also is the gh5 even capable of taking good photos for like portraits and landscape / upclose etc? (also how do you get around the bad AF?) Would appreciate a response thanks!
Hi brother! I really appreciate it. I can recommend the GH5 hands down. It has really dropped in price as of late. I cannot imagine better value for your money at the moment. Are you more into photography or videography? A lot of photographers are switching to Olympus which is also a micro four thirds camera.
GH5 is more video oriented however it takes great stills none the less. I think the Lumix G9 is more stills centric, but a recent firmware made tons of professional video recording features available. I can recommend micro four thirds cameras overall because of their smaller size, both body and lenses and this also means they're generally cheaper. Then if you really want the "full frame look" you can always get a speedbooster which gets you closer to full frame than even the super 35 sensors.
Lens recommendations is tough. Both landscape and Portrait? You will need separate lenses. For portrait, anything above 35mm will be great. For landscape I'd say anything below 25m (assuming you're getting a micro four thirds camera)
Lastly, for AF, for photos it works great. Even with the adapter and EF lens. For video, continuous auto focus is not great, but tap to focus is snappy and there is a button on the camera that is designed to get the focus with just a tap. Otherwise for video I do manual. lots of the more nicer vintage lenses are all manual anyway. One of my main lenses is Kamlan50mm which is fully manual. I got a video on it.
This went on a bit long. Hope I managed to answer some questions
@@JonBear which lens with a speedbooster would give me a 35mm look? and if you say anything below 25mm for landscape , which lens would be good for that since a 25mm with a x2 crop factor would give a focal length of 50mm. is there an advantage to manual vs the autofocus lenses? like your Kamlan 50mm would be 100mm on a MFT right? thanks for the reply i appreciate it!
@@dezcanso1540 yes kamlan 50 mm becomes 100 mm equivalent so it's fantastic for portrait.
The speedbooster conversion is (lens mm x 0.71) then because of mft crop, it's x2
Manuals have no advantages other than being cheaper.
Lenses that don't zoom are called prime lenses and they're generally considered more beautiful, but you lose the convenience of zooming.
@@dezcanso1540 specific lenses is hard to recommend because I don't know your budget. Generally I prefer fast lenses, like the Kamlan (f1.1) and Sigma on speedbooster.
If you're trying to find fast lenses with zooms, I recommend speedbooster with ef lenses.
If you don't mind having no zoom, then native m43 primes are more affordable. Kamlan is a great example. 7Artisans is another cheap manufacturer. These cheap primes don't autofocus.
Sigma also makes absolutely amazing top of the line prime lenses for micro four thirds. I think you can get the set for about 1k usd
@@JonBear Well lets say budget wasn't a factor, can you list the best lenses ( prime , zoom , sigma w/ speed, native , kamlan etc..) whichever you think are the best in ascending order of what i should purchase to have a complete gh5 powerhouse set of lenses. Thanks again for all your help!!! and appreciate the responses. thanks!
Hi John, mine same set is quite terrible when it comes to photos at infinity. It backfocuses to the point that this set is unusable for photos at the distance more than 1,5m. Any advice? Tried to calibrate the lens using sigma USB dock. Somehow did not work at all.
Good question. Here's what you do. Take off the speedbooster and look at it where the lens mounts. The glass element should extrude there. Try turning it clockwise. Gently.
Put the lens and camera back on and test it. If it's still bad, turn it more. Repeat until you get it right.
You can even get your lens to be parfocal if you find the sweet spot. I used a permanent marker to make marks on the inside of the speedbooster as I repeated it trial and error. Gerald undone had a video on this too.
Good luck!
yo Man! new sub here. can you make a vid about your gh5+sigma18-35 video setting (on the Gh5 ) ????? please- :) good luck with your new channel
Hey brother! Super appreciate it!
Yeah I'll make a video on it that's a great idea!
Just some quick things off the bat:
*I put tap to focus on the ae/lock button, (this makes filming manual a breeze)
*I shoot natural with everything -5
*I put the Ex telephoto function on the front button (the one next to the lens)
I'll include more in the video, cheers!
@@JonBear cool thanks
@@JonBear
yo man thanks
i using Gh5 +vilrox+sigma18-35 lens- and the conection between the vilrox to the lens is a little shaky - just a small wiggle - but using canon 50mm or canon 35-70mm is rock steady - do you know any fix? or maybe the vilrox came faulty?
@@prielhackim mine wiggles slightly as well. I don't think your viltrox is faulty. It's not a problem ✌️
@@JonBear thanks. I pot some tape on the viltrox and it is much better
My dear friend Nice Video ,Im new to this and looking to get the " used "sigma 18-35 and the VILTROX NF-M43X for my GH5.
Can you give any off the " link" to Buying this .Hopefully waiting for it .
Thank You ..and even subscribed your channel .
Hey Jaya!! Thank you so much for the sub! Very much appreciate it. I don't have any discount links. However if I were you, I'd look up Ebay and also local "buy and sell" pages on facebook and ask around.
For viltrox, make sure you get the EF-M2 II one!
@@JonBear Thank You My dear friend ,Still I am waiting for your replay....
Hello. You are using a Panasonic Lumix GH camera and a Sigma AF 18-35mm lens with a Viltrox EF-M1 adapter. If you focus on the subject, and change the focal length of the lens (18 - 35 or 35 - 18). Does the subject remain sharp? The sharpness disappears on my camera, and I need to focus a second time. When using a Panasonic 12 -38, 2.8 lens, there is no such effect. I change the focal length and the subject is constantly in focus. What do you think is the cause of the effect with Sigma AF 18-35mm.
I see what you mean! Yes this is called "parfocal". Sigma is unfortunately not a parfocal lens. Cinema zoom lenses tend to be Parfocal but they're really expensive. So yes you need to re-focus when you change the focal length.
@@JonBear Thank. The information is helpful. I fully understood this issue.
Hi there,
How did you calibrate the sigma 18-35mm f1.8 after buying it.
I bought it new so no need but if you need to calibrate it you'll need the dock. There are videos about this on CZcams
Hi, nice video. I have viltrox ef m2 II EF prime lens 35mm 1.5 . I have very blurry picture at ap1.5. On 2.0 and higher its ok. I tried metabones and on ap 1.5 its ok. is it something wrong with my viltrox? tnx
I think that's normal. The more open you shoot the more sharpness you loose.
Is there a way to get the real 12-35mm 2.8 out of that lens so without crop?
Unfortunately no. Even on it's native EF mount, there is a crop. If you want 12mm equivalent on m43 system then you can try getting the Laowa 7.5mm.
@@JonBear Thank you so much for the advice 😊
Hello again, what viltrox model do you use with the sigma 18-35 to the gh5?
I use the EF-M2 II model and very much recommend it!
All the electronic part of your gh5 works with the viltrox and sigma 18-35, aperture and focus, thanks John@@JonBear
@@jesusgarciaencuentra6001 Yes the viltrox works with all the electronics as long as you buy the CANON (EF) version. The NIKON version does not work
@@JonBear I have a doubt, if my gh5 can use all its power in this goal, I don't know if it works just like a native
Does the latest gh5 auto focus update change anything about this combo?
I haven't updated yet, which puts me in a good position to test before and after. This past week I did some vlogging with this combo using AF and at least pre-update, it's quite unreliable.
I will compare it to an updated GH5 and report my results!
at 3:35 in you say the sigma 1.8 lens with the speedbooster becomes 1.2. But isn't that incorrect? Example: A 1.8 aperature lens on a MFT now becomes 5.6, then you add the speedbooster of 0.71 and now it becomes a 3.9 (ir 4.0). Let me know your thoughts. This seems to be a HUGE debate on the web: whether or not the MFT crop means you increase the aperature. Some are saying no it only changes DOF. I haven't seen a good test to confirm this.
The speedbooster multiplication applies to the original aperture of the lens. So 1.8 becomes 1.2 (the ui on the camera also displays it a 1.2)
Then if you want to find out the full frame equivalent, you can do the 2x multiplication guideline to get an estimate of 2.4 equivalent.
In the end we're talking about equivalents so it's hard to be accurate. For me the results speak for themselves. This combo is amazing for me 😁🤙 hope this helps.
And yes I think the 2x multiplication is only to estimate equivalent DOF, not light. Like a ton of comments have pointed out 👍👍
@@JonBear oh ok thanks for the clarification
@@richnationfilms anytime! Thank you for your question
Hello, I just bought the lens and the viltrox, is it normal to hear it inside the lens when the aperture changes?
Congrats with your purchase! Yeah because it changes electronically in steps. You can get it modded into a cine-lens that is parfocal if you want to have an aperture ring instead.
I have metabonse and viltrox, the metabonse its sturdier, but has worst machined tolerances, you also need to rotate the lens to calibrate the infinitive focus. I prefere the viltrox for the price.
Awesome! Appreciate the input! I picked up the viltrox after watching comparisons and seeing that the metabones is only slightly sharper in corners. With the massive price difference, getting a viltrox was an easy choice.
I received the EF-M2 II to use my sigma 18-35 (EF) with my GH5 (M43). I have tried for about 2 hours and watched every possible video and nothing is working. The adapter fits fine on the GH5 but no matter what I do, no matter how I try to attach it, It wont connect. It's extremely frustrating because I've made sure I am using the right components over and over. Could the EF side be faulty or my main question is the EF-M2 a different product than the EF-M2 II? I am really confused and have just waited weeks to get these connected. Once again I purchased the "VILTROX EF-M2II Speed Booster Micro 4/3 Focal Reducer Booster Adapter Auto-Focus 0.71x for Canon EF Mount Series Lens to M4/3 Camera GH4 GH5 GF6 GF1 GX1 GX7 E-M5 E-M10 E-M10II E-PL5" and it wont mount to my Sigma 18-35. ANY HELP would be greatly appreciated.
If you've tried two adapters and they still don't match the lens, then I'm going to guess the issue is with the lens
HELP!!! Everyone is only talking about the Sigma Cannon EF mount with the + the ViltrOx EF-M2 for the GH5..but MY Sigma lens is a Nikon F mount and I want to adapt it to my GH5..WILL THE VILTROX EF-M2 II WORK WITH MY NIKON F MOUNT???
Viltrox has made an adapter that fits on the Nikon lens as well! (NIKON to Micro four thirds) amzn.to/32GXNBE
It's cheaper than the Canon version however it's fully manual. So you need to adjust the aperture on an aperture ring on the speedbooster itself.
I shoot everything in manual anyway. Anybody doing professional videography will - besides this lens is not good with auto focus to begin with so you are not missing much. Cheaper speedbooster with little downside. Check it out!
It's my all time favourite too. I have a GH5 and GH5s and pair them with x2 Sigma 18-35mm lenses with x2 speedboosters ultra.
That's incredible! Stepping it up and doubling down on the Sigma! It's such an insanely nice combo. I may do the same but with one or the other black magic pockets (6k or 4k)
Yeah Jon. BMPCC4K/6K certainly got my attention with the Black Magic RAW. I'm shooting a feature film with my set-up.
@@Filmmaker809 I want to see your feature! Make sure to let me know as soon as you got a trailer fb group or anything up on the web!
Thanks Jon. :) will do. Can I add you on my facebook?
@@Filmmaker809 yeah let's connect! Icelandic name is Jón Björn
the stabilizer is good with sigma and viltrox?
100 percent! The in-body stabilization of the GH5 is unbelievably good. Panning the camera is very smooth and I can also move with it if I do the ninja walk. You can check my desert safari video, there are some walking shots there, at nighttime where I didn't shoot slomo so that I could keep the shutter speed low. Still is stable!
Another trick is to film at 30fps then interpret the footage to 24 frames, so the slight slomo smooths out walking shots, but you barely notice that everything is in slow-motion, and everything gets a dreamy smooth vibe to it.
This is misleading! In terms of depth of field, it is not 1.2 on a m4/3 which is your GH5 camera. It is 1.2*2 = 2.4. So not that mind blowing
Wait, F1.8 with the 2X crop becomes an F3.6 and then becomes around F2.5 with the speed booster, right? CoNfUsIoN??????
Thanks for the question! Yes. f1.2 is displayed in the camera UI when wide open. *So it is f1.2 in terms of light* . But you are right, in terms of depth of field, it's a estimated f2.5 equivalent
@@JonBear awesome thanks for clarifying mate
Please stop, f/2.8 is always f/2.8, no matter what crop has a camera. The point is that crop camera with the same resolution as FF has smaler pixels and need more light to compensate it.
I may be mistaken but the depth of field and need for more light makes the x2 calculation fairly accurate to estimate the equivalent effect. Of course it's still 2.8.
Check this DOF simulator for more info dofsimulator.net/en/
It's f2.8 for exposure but f5.6 for DOF. F2.8 on m4/3 and f2.8 on full frame is the same exposure, but it's f5.6 for DOF compared to a FF f2.8
@@MikeMarrah almost true. But becouse mtf has smaler circle od confusion i has a little smaller deph of field than ff. Look smaller Pixels needs sharper ligth
But You use much wider lenses. 12mm looks like 24mm. 12mm 2.0 is 6mm aputer, 24mm 2.0 is 12mm aputere. Bigger aputure = shallower depth of field
@@MarcinRutkowski Cheers brother!
Has anyone else had issues connecting the EF-M2 II viltrox speedbooster to the Sigma 18-35?
What are your issues?
@@JonBear connecting the speed booster to my Gh5, there's no issue it fits easy like any other lens...on the flip side it doesn't seem like the speed Booster and The Sigma 18-35 meant to fit each other.. which in looking at several videos I see that can't be correct because many people use this combination.. and I see no one says there's a big difference between the EF-M2 vs EF-M2 II except for the contacts...
Update for anyone in the future that may run into the same issue..that maybe new to this realm..I realized that I have the Sigma 18-35 for Nikon cameras which explains why The EF adapter will not work.. There are Mounts for it From Metabones and Viltrox as well..
@@batchan1 Dang that's a shame! Hope you can switch out the adapter.
I have a friend that uses the Nikon sigma as well. The viltrox adapter for Nikon does not include electronics so you cannot change the aperture in camera. You need to do it on the adapter itself instead. I have no idea if the metabones nikon adapter is like this too.
Think I got a faulty Viltrox EF-M2. Keep getting lens attachment failed on the GH5 when connecting the SIGMA 18 to 35mm to the Viltrox. Updating the Viltrox firmware made no difference. Have you ever had this issue?? Thanks.
I have had it happen once or twice. Reattaching it has always fixed it
@@JonBear Tried it a 1000 times 😂. Sending this one back.
@@JohnOsCreations sounds like that's the way to go. Been using mine for almost 2 years and it's been reliable for me 👍 good luck!
Been thinking about getting this combo for little over a month now. I think I've made my decicion to get them!
Nice one! What type of video do you do? ! Stay tuned my next video is on low light using this combo 👍👍👍
Damn I didn’t even remember I commented here! But I got the setup and it’s so good! Only thing is that I haven’t used manual focus before so just gotta take my time and learn to use it.
And as for the video type I have only shot videos for myself until now just with my friends but with the setup update I’m going to start doing client work.
The combo is pretty good on stills too btw, I’ve taken few nice portraits with it!
My friend was all gym video shot with the camera only? No gimbals and etc?
Yep all handheld. I have used gimbals before but on GH5 the stabilization is good enough for the shots I like! Here's a recent gym video I made instagram.com/p/B4NhFpqHJRS/?igshid=ymmvyq901soz
@@JonBear This video is ahead of it's time
@@jbaldsing thank you brother! hope to see something you make too!
@@JonBear Hi I shot this a little while ago just for fun during covid-isolation if you'd to view and maybe sub please? czcams.com/video/73PVw2Pks6Q/video.html
Hello , please what adaptor or speed booster can I use with sigma18-35mm Nikon on my panasonic GH5?
Use this one! amzn.to/2G6B4Ge
It does not have autofocus and you control aperture on a ring on the adapter, but it works fantastic
Thank you so much for your support
I cant stop watching your tutorial. It helping me personal ..
Now I puchase Sigma 18-35mm F1,8 DC HSM für Canon Objektivbajonett. I hope it works well for my panasonic GH5? And what adaptor or booster can I use ?
My pleasure! If you use the Canon adapter instead of Nikon, then you can use this one amzn.to/2SOdVLP (same as the one I have in the video!)
With this one, you can control aperture in camera. Autofocus also works great for photos. But for video it's noisy, so it will work best if you manual focus.
Thank you so much
I am getting flickering image on fast movements with this setup. Maybe it's my viltrox, I don't know. Everyone uploads sharp videos but I can't achieve it
Is it flickering from lights?? I am not sure I understand what you mean with flickering. Also you mentioned that you don't get sharp images, try using it at f1.6 or higher
Recently, I bought a Viltrox EF-M2 II and a Sigma 18-35mm 1.8 for my Panasonic GH5, but when I attach the lens to the adapter, it doesn't fit completely, it stays halfway and doesn't lock onto the adapter.
Does anyone know what could be the issue?
Hi, just rotate the lens elements until its quite tight that will fix it, had faced the same issue
It is Viltrox EF M2II 0.71x????
Yep!
how can i set the right focal length for sigma 18-35mm and gh5 to get ibis ?
If you have an electronic speedbooster like the viltrox then it is all automatic. Ibis should work
either your viltrox was dirty or your lens or you have too many filters in front of your sensor but the workout video was soft and the flares were not good. 5:03 5:06
Could be the tiffen UV filter that I use. It came with the Sigma from B&H so I figured it was good. Might have to look into it. Either way I cleaned all my glass thoroughly after seeing your comment with Zeiss wipes 🙏
@@JonBear Yeah UV filters only cause more issues than they're worth often causing bright lights to ghost.